Some say that scent is no good, and that they can trap more without it, and they even go so far as to offer to match their craft with those using it. I don't call myself a trapper, says E. R. Lafleche, of Canada, as I never spend much time at hunting or trapping. When I go in the woods it is only for a little recreation, and not being an old hunter, I do not know it all yet, but will say that I can get more than my share of foxes in any place here in Canada.
For the benefit of the young as well as many old trappers I will give here my methods of trapping, snaring, shooting and poisoning the fox, which is as good, if not better, than any I have seen. I can clean the foxes out of any section of the country without having to purchase any of the so-called famous scent.
To take away the human scent from whatever I do, I make a bath as follows: First, take 2 lbs. of male cedar branches, 2 lbs. balsam branches, and 1 lb. good hen manure; chop the branches fine and place the whole in a pot in 2 gallons of soft water, "fresh rain water is the best" and boil until reduced to 1 1/2 gallon. Second, take a clean pail or tub, smoke it with birch or balsam bark, then place solution, cover and keep in a temperate place. To make the scent, take equal parts of the following: Fresh eel, honey in comb, chicken, pig liver, mice; chop the whole together like mince meat and bottle, cork and place the bottle in a pail or tub of water so that it will float and in a warm place. A good way is to place the bottle in some shallow part of a lake, creek or river much exposed to the sun, and where the water is warm; use a strong bottle and fill about three-fourths of it, and remove the cork from time to time for fear the fermentation smashes the bottle, and as soon as it has settled, cork well and keep in a temperate place for a week or so, and it is ready for use.
Smear your snowshoes and go where you like, and there will not be a single fox that will come to your trail that will not follow it to the end.
To take the iron smell from traps, first clean them well in warm water. Second, put them in the bath for 10 or 12 hours. Third, smoke them with birch and balsam bark; then they are ready to set, Place the trap 18 inches from the bait and put a few drops of the medicine under the pan of the trap, get a small shovel made of sieve wire, and sieve some snow over the trap and over your signs up to three feet or more from your bait. Don't spit or monkey with pipe and tobacco. Place your bait near a large stone, stump, fence or tree, and in such a way that the fox will be able to approach the bait from side where the trap is; always set the trap so that the loose jaw will be at the far end from the bait.
It is a good thing to place some clean white cotton wool under the pan with a few drops of the scent. As soon as a fox is caught save a front leg and with it print some signs such as a live fox would do, all over the place where the trap is set; also save the urine from the bladder of the fox and when it becomes rancid, sprinkle a few drops on the weeds near the trap and the first fox that will come will be yours.
To poison them strychnine is required. First, use fresh beef suet and make pills the size of a big pea. Second, put the size of a large grain of wheat of strychnine and stick these pills in your bait the same way as garlic in a roast. Third, take a fresh cow head, stick your pills in the fleshy parts of the head, but do not place them too close to each other, then hang the head out of the reach of the hens, etc., in a stable where there is cattle for one night, then take it to the place you wish to leave it and there throw away like a lost head. A good way to place such bait is on a good sized lake. Place the head in the center of it and you will find your fox every time.
Of course when you are using poison you must visit your bait every morning at daylight, so that the drifting snow, etc., will not cover the fox's tracks. While visiting the bait, keep to one side and from three to five feet from it; don't monkey around it, and if Mr. Fox came to the bait and if you have reason to think he has taken a pill, make a circuit of a 100 yards or more until you come to the trail of a fox going away from the bait. As soon as a fox feels the effect of the poison he will make several long jumps and then start to walk.
Follow his tracks, and the moment you notice zigzags in the tracks, or that the fox is looking for an easy place to go through a fence, etc., this is a sure sign that the fox is sick, and you can follow that track and find the fox. Sometimes you will find them not 50 yards from the bait, and other times a half or three-quarters of a mile from the bait. This depends upon the time spent at the bait and is also due to other causes.
A good way to poison them is to place a pill in a mouse or a small piece of liver, but I prefer to make pills with lard, about a square inch, and I insert the poison in the middle of the bullet. To do this, I bore a small hole with a stick, and then place the strychnine and cover the hole with the lard taken from it. To do this with ease, the lard must be partly frozen, smear with honey and keep frozen; then take some frozen liver (any kind will do) and chop it in fine pieces and mix with honey and keep in a small wood box. Smoke the box the same as the traps and smear inside with honey and add a few drops of the medicine. The kind of box I recommend is one 4"x12" made of either cedar or bass wood 1/4 inch thick, with two compartments, one 4"x8" for the liver pieces and the other 4"x4" for the bullets, with a sliding door at each end, and a piece of leather held by small screws on the top for the hand.
When ready, take your ammunition and once on fox land, smear your snow shoes with the scent and at every hundred yards drop a few bits of liver, and at every 500 yards or so, a few more with a pill, and in the pill stick a four inch black feather, and two feet to the right stick a strong weed, and in such a way that the wind will not throw it down. This will enable you to find the pill in case of a snow storm, and by brushing the snow lightly with your mit, the pill can be found at once, unless a fox took it. If the bullet has not been touched you can tell without having to remove the snow, as the feather will stand straight up, and this is a sure sign that the poison is still there. If no feather can be seen and if it has been stormy, brush the snow away, the lard is not as white as the snow and is easily found. Should it be gone, look carefully around the place; sometimes you will see the feather 10 or 20 feet from the place you have placed the pill, and there or elsewhere you should see a place where the fox has been digging a hole. Examine the hole carefully and you may find the poison, as often when not hungry he will hide it for some other time, or for his friend. If you have reason to believe that a fox took the pill, and owing to stormy weather you cannot find him, you must survey the grounds as soon as the snow commences to melt, and by looking carefully along the fences you will often find them. Always keep trace of your pills; the best places to put these is in the middle of a lake or field; the black feather will attract the attention of the foxes at once, and they will make immediately for any black spots they see in a field or on a lake.
To shoot them in winter: Get a complete suit made of white cotton, including cap, smear your suit with scent, or have some balls of cotton wool smeared with it and tie these around your belt with a good string in such a way that you can remove them at will. In a fine moonlight, take your snow shoes and go where the foxes are traveling, and the moment you see one or hear one bark, circle around him so that the wind will carry the scent. He will come towards you and will stop at a certain distance from you, and as you notice him on the alert, stop moving. The fox will put his head up and will look in all directions in order to locate where the nest of the plump mice are, and as you notice this sound the squeal of the field mouse; the fox will at once run toward you; then shoot him. I use BB shot for foxes.
Where foxes are plentiful, a hunter of some experience can bag several in three or four hours. I have killed as many as four in three hours. A good wind, fine moonlight, and lots of foxes, a fellow will have fine sport. In shooting foxes, keep as much as possible on the small hills so as to survey more land. While I was living in the country I had good sport shooting them in the spring, in the high snow banks along the fences.
Foxes are fond of playing at such places, especially when there is a crust to carry them. This generally comes in Canada at the latter end of February and during the month of March. I have often killed them at bait. Horse meat is fine bait for them. I once killed two big foxes at one shot. A hunter can always approach a fox when he is feeding, providing he knows how.
When I trap fox I do it on a large scale. I always set a combination of traps and snares. I carry a good supply of wire snares. The twine must be of dark color. In making a trail for fox, I take advantage of every good place I find either for trap or snares, either between bunches of weeds, trees, stones, stumps, roots, logs, fences, etc., where Mr. Fox will have to pass to follow my trail. On the rail or other board fences I use the twine snare, and on a barbed wire fence, the wire snare. In setting a twine snare, I always use a drop log or stone, and so fixed that as soon as the fox pulls the weight drops, and he is lifted and hung at once. I use ordinary wire fence staples and two to each set, one placed so that when the weight falls the neck of the fox is carried close to the staple and held there, and the other staple close to the drop. The drop must be placed so that it cannot reach the ground, and must weigh about three times as much as any fox.
Any fox that puts his head in the loop is sure to stay there. In the bush, I take advantage of all shanty roads, and I use spring poles when I find a suitable tree. I just trim the head and use a wire snare so that the squirrels, etc., will not bother it.
I set traps at the baits and in the middle of the fields in the same way as poison, with bits of liver around it, and I cover the trap with a light coat of snow with the same little shovel, and under the pan I place some cotton wool with a few drops of scent, and should, while the fox is picking up the pieces of liver, not step on the trap, he is sure to scratch for the mouse under the pan, and the trap will mouse him.
I presume that almost every boy trapper in North America has an ardent wish to trap one of these cunning sharp witted animals, and I remember I thought when a boy if I could only catch a fox in a trap my reputation as a trapper would be made, says F. W. Howard, of Wisconsin.
Boys, you must not be discouraged if, after following the methods you hear, you fail to take a fox, for probably most of you have only traps enough to make one set; any of us older trappers I think will admit that it is rather a difficult feat to make one set and take a fox in a reasonably short time. Most of the trappers who use these sets have likely from a dozen to fifty traps out for fox at one time.
I have sometimes taken foxes in traps set for skunk, coon and mink, so that one may say that with a large number of traps out, even though not set with the care and precautions usually taken to catch a fox, the large number of chances open enable one to take here and there a blundering and unwary fellow. I trapped my first fox when about twelve years old, by following a method given me by my grandfather, who was, in his day, a famous New England fox hunter. He was a very old man at that time, but when I expressed to him my heart's desire, asking him how and where to set the trap (I had but one suitable for fox) he told me to get my father to let me take the oxen and plow, to make a couple of furrows in our back pasture. Following his instructions I boiled the trap in weak lye and then daubed it over with fresh cow manure. The back pasture spoken of was a place where foxes traveled, and I presume that there was no week in the year that at least two or three foxes did not cross there.
Now, this is a very important point, if you are making but one set especially, be sure and find a location for the set near some den or ledge where foxes live, or at some point where you know they are in the habit of crossing. But to continue, under my aged instructor's direction I plowed two furrows across the pasture in the form of an X. "Now," said he, "any fox that comes along will get down and run in the furrows. Set your traps where they cross, and I shouldn't wonder if you found one up here some fine morning." I scooped out a shallow hole of a size to hold the trap and clog, put a bunch of wool under the pan so it would spring easily, and covered all slightly and smoothly with dirt; Granddad then placed some lumps of dirt in such a way that a fox would be apt to step over them into the trap, if coming from any direction. He cautioned me in visiting the trap to walk by it some distance away.
"How long do you think it will be before we catch a fox?", I asked. "Maybe not for a week, and maybe not at all, but I tell you boy, if you want to catch a fox you have got to stick to it." You can imagine my delight the next morning on finding a fine red fox tangled up among some huckleberry bushes near by, and you may be sure I thought Granddad the greatest trapper in the world, and myself the next.
I caught two more foxes at the same set before snow came, and will say that I have always found this method one of the surest, but of course very few boys are situated so as to have pastures that foxes cross, and which they can plow furrows in.
Foxes are generally suspicious of a dead bait; however, at a bait which they have been in the habit of visiting, generally some carcass, they are more easily caught than at a freshly placed bait or carcass, and it is a good plan, if you try taking a fox in this way, to put out the carcass or large baits long enough in advance for them to get into the practice of coming to them; then place your traps, if possible, just before a fall of snow, and you are almost certain of catching one. The traps should always be set with care and treated as already described, to cover the scent of iron, as a fox considers the scent of man and iron a dangerous combination, and they undoubtedly know about traps and fear them.
I like to use a live bait for fox and bobcats, and a rabbit is about the best for this purpose, because they are easily secured. They form the principal game of these animals and they are nearly always looking for them. It is, I think, safe to say, that each grown fox or bobcat kill two hundred each on an average every year. The sight or hot scent of any game these animals are accustomed to hunt excites them, and their faculties are at once concentrated on how to capture and get on the outside of said game as soon as possible. Under such conditions, they fall more easy prey to trappers' wiles. Select a point where you know foxes hunt, or not far from some den or ledge which they use. Find a hollow log or some tree that has a hollow butt with an opening; in either case, plug the hollow securely so the rabbit will have to stay up near the opening, put in some carrots, or ears of corn, and cover the hole with woven wire, having about an inch mesh, or some barb wire stapled across will sometimes answer; they may in some cases be afraid of the wire, but I have had excellent success with this method, and my opinion is that the sight of live game makes them reckless (on one occasion I caught a fox in a wooden box about eight inches square and three or four feet long, having a wire door, hinged at the top and slanting in,--a self-setter--the trap had a live rabbit inside and was set along a creek, for the purpose of taking a mink alive and uninjured).
If this method is used as a snow set, brush out all tracks, and whether on snow or bare ground, always make as few tracks and leave as little sign as possible around your traps. When setting for any shy animal, don't cover or handle trap or clog with bare hands. Use gloves and a small wooden spade.
Do you trap foxes? If you do I bet you have some favorite way, and too, doubtless in most respects it's different from my way of trapping them, as there seems to be almost as many methods as there are successful trappers; nor either is the same confined to the methods used, but to the kind of traps employed, baits, scents, etc., says B. P. Pickens.
The Water Set, the Sheep Path Methods, are national, and known to be O. K., though the former requires bait attractions, and lots of other preparations, while the latter with me has never necessarily required baits or scents to make it a good success.
I do not confine my fox trapping to any one method long, for I am always governed by the surroundings, and conditions, yet my traps are set and concealed the same way, no matter for what animals I intend to trap.
My traps set for skunk and rats are just as carefully set and concealed as though they were set for fox and coon.
My favorite is a Newhouse Fox Trap for every purpose, as it will hold.
My reasons for using nothing smaller than a No. 2 Fox Trap is that a fellow does not always know if a fox will happen about his skunk traps or a big coon about his rat traps, and since I have found Mr. Fox and Mr. Coon a few times in the toils I make every preparation for his reception.
I will endeavor to tell some of the things I do, which is a good way to take a fox. I commence early in the spring, if the ground is not ready to arrange for my fall and winter trapping, looking out for their signs, and continue to keep my eyes open all summer and around the pastures, in the fields, old roads, and in the woods, gullies and washouts. I arrange to trap them in stock paths by laying a limb or fence rail across these paths, while the use of stock all summer renders it old, and on either side of this path obstruction is just the place for a fox trap. I cut and wire my trap chain to the middle of a brush, one that a fox can drag some distance away, which leaves this same place a good risk for another catch, where if stapled to something he could not move he would render the place unfit for the rest of the season.
Conceal your trap by digging a hole on either side of the path obstruction the size of the trap to be used, setting trap always springs with path, have the hole deep enough so when the trap is well covered with leaves, then on the leaves a layer of dirt, it will just be level with the earth and look natural.
To use this same underground method in cold freezing weather, first bed the trap hole good with dry leaves, or grass, over springs and all, being sure to use dry flat leaves to lay over the pan and jaws, then cover over all with some of the remaining dirt before mentioned.
Be sure to hide chain and handle everything with gloves.
Now brush out your tracks, step over your trap and go on.
One way of trapping foxes may be done like this. Around the pastures and in the woods where stock make paths lay a fence rail, or its equivalent across these paths, and the use of stock during the summer months will render these prearranged obstructions worn and natural by November trapping, and on either side of such an obstruction is a splendid place to set your trap for the fox to step in, writes L. M. Pickens.
Paths, places under fences, little washouts, and old roads not much used are generally his favorite travels. See after his tracks in the dust, mud, or snow; notice how he steps over one of these obstructions that you arranged early in the summer, and other places, studying him, then set your trap this way, using every precaution to not change any of the surroundings.
Carry with you a little hard wood stick, ready sharpened, with which to dig a hole on either side of this obstruction that has been lying over the stock path just the size of your trap, and deep enough so your trap pan and jaws will be a little below the level of the surface. Now cover over springs good and all around the outside of jaws with some of this dirt you dug up; now you have the trap concealed all but its pan and inside of jaws; finish the set by laying some small flat leaves from jaws to pan, commencing and going all the way around jaws; after this is done pulverize some of the remaining dirt, and sprinkle it over these leaves, entirely covering them. Take a small twig and level over trap, finishing the job. It might help some to cut a part of a bird into fine pieces, dropping it and loose feathers over this kind of a set.
To fasten the trap is some of the job. Cut a bush with a lot of limbs to it, and wire your trap to the middle of same securely, but do not have the brush drag so heavily that he cannot run off with it; it is intended for him to go immediately after he is caught, for these reasons, he will soon hang up some distance away, and thus fastened, he is not stationed at this good place where another may be caught, besides his chances of pulling out of the trap is less than it is if he was stapled to something he could not move. The brush is a give and take game, see?
Be sure to cover chain of trap good, and have everything look as natural when you leave us when you came to set trap. Use No. 2 Newhouse, handling it and everything with gloves; always stand In one place; leave no paper or whittlings on the premises. I use this method just outlined. Try it boys.
There is no animal roaming the woods so hard to catch in a steel trap as the fox, says a writer in the _Orange Judd Farmer_. Yet when one understands his nature he is easily taken despite his cunning. The following method I have employed successfully: First take four good steel traps and cover them with fresh blood at a slaughter house. Take a dead hen (one that has died a natural death will do if there is no odor), and run a wire up in her head and down in her body; also wires through her feet and legs. Select a place where foxes run near a low bush or small tree. On a branch of this, about three feet from the ground, fasten your hen solidly with the wires in her feet. By means of wire in her neck, bend it so she will look as if she were on a roost. Be very particular on this point. Set your trap a little below the surface of the soil, so that the tops are level. Now cover up with leaves and grass so that there is no difference in appearance from the surrounding ground. Be sure the chains are well staked. Mr. Fox comes up and sees the hen. He squats down on his stomach. He will lie there for five minutes watching the hen. Then he makes a spring for her neck, and gets it, but the traps get him and the boy gets the fox if he is cute enough.
Well here is how I caught my first fox, says C. F. Hotchkiss, of Wisconsin. It was in the winter of 1887 and 1888. I was working for a farmer here in Shawano Co., had to drive the stock to the river to water all winter. I noticed fox tracks on the ice so I bought a double spring Newhouse. Gave 60ยข for it, took some chaff from the hay in the cow stable for a bed and set the trap on the river bank under a large hemlock to protect it from storms, covered trap with chaff and strewed pieces of chicken and feathers on the bed. In four days I had two foxes, then some one stole my trap and I did not try any more then. Last winter I was working for the same farmer again. He lost two sheep. We drew the carcasses out in the woods, set four traps at one sheep and six at the other. In seven weeks we had 14 foxes and we lost no time from other work. We pulled wool from the sheep to cover the traps with. I do not think it best to spit near a fox trap, especially tobacco spit. There may be some foxes that do not care for it, but I know they are not all built that way.
One of my methods of trapping Reynard was as follows: First, thoroughly besmear the trap with droppings from cattle, using no other preparation, neither boiling or smoking, as some recommend to prevent their fear of human scent, then my favorite sets being in the path of some old timber or wood road or cattle path in some unusual pasture. After selecting the place best suited, according to my best judgment, take a knife to cut out a hole corresponding to size of trap, remove carefully all loose earth. I usually carried a small basket for the reception of everything taken up this way. Set the trap carefully, covering loosely with some coarse material and topping the whole with material to correspond with the surrounding surface of paths, and lastly laying a small twig across just at one side of where the trap is set, as a fox will always step over any small obstruction, and by placing the twig in this manner he would step over into the trap.
In the section of country which I am now writing, that just east of the White Mountains in New Hampshire, there were innumerable such roads and paths, so that I had all the territory I desired for the purpose. Have caught many a sly chap in this manner. Had a good grapple at end of chain and never fastened a trap but let them make a few jumps when they would nearly always get caught up, yet on a few occasions have had to put up a pretty stiff hunt before locating them. For instance, there might be a snow storm, if late in the season, or a heavy rain. In this case there might not be any signs to go by, and I would have to go on a blind hunt and cover considerable ground before I could skin my fox.
I had my traps all set one fall and everything was coming my way, until one morning I found that I was dealing with a fox that knew as much about trapping as I did. I had my trap set in a spring and every time he wanted to steal bait he could manage it without getting into the trap. I let the trap set the same way and kept it baited but meanwhile I was thinking of a plan to capture him. In fixing the spring I made a dam out of dirt, placing a few small flat stones on top of it. Now I made up my mind that as the dam was the nearest point to the bait that he must be stealing it from that place. Now I took the trap out of the spring and put in a stone covered with a tuft of grass to resemble the trap and setting the trap itself in the dam, covering with dirt and laying a little flat stone on the pan. I had made up my mind that when he stepped on the dam he would step on the small stones that I had laid on top to keep the dirt from washing away. While stepping on the dam to reach for the bait he stepped on the small stone on the pan and was held fast by a No. 2 1/2 Blake & Lamb trap, just as I had calculated on.
One way of trapping fox is setting under water, especially in slow moving water, is most effectual in killing the trap odor, says a Michigan trapper. The metallic smell will not rise through water, but will be absorbed and carried away by it. As much as a fortnight before setting take a hoe and dig a shallow pool in a swamp where foxes are known to cross. Dig it six or seven feet across in a mucky ooze and leave a drain way or outlet open so that in event of rain storms, water will not rise and stand too deep in the pool. The pool should bear as few evidences as possible of having been made by man. In the course of a fortnight after the scent of the trapper has faded away and leaves have fallen, the trap is smeared with tallow and the chain is fastened to long narrow stone, approaching so as to make and leave as few tracks as possible. The trap along with the stone and chain is set in the bottom of the pool, not in the center, but so near one side that the trap will be from 12 to 14 inches from the low bank. A little tuft of grass as large as a soda biscuit is placed directly over the trap resting on it, so the top of the tuft will show a little above the water, looking as though it grew there. About a foot beyond it further out in the water another tuft a little larger and thicker, is placed so it will show distinctly above the water, and on it place the bait. A fox crossing the swamp on a chilly day scenting the bait will approach the pool. To avoid wading in the cold muddy water he will probably step on the nearest tuft. That is the one on the trap in which he will be caught by the foreleg.
I will tell you what I know about the fox, says a Canadian trapper. He is the slyest animal we have to deal with here. I think the best way is to use several different ways to trap foxes, and your chances will be doubled in taking them.
Take a horse or beef head and put it out in the woods and leave it there for about a week. Then if the foxes have been at it, set your traps and cover with leaves or dead pine needles. When you are leaving take a brush and brush some snow over your traps to about half cover the leaves. Leave no foot marks around and you will be pretty sure to get your fox.
Another good way is to take tainted beef or pig kidneys and put them at the back of a V, made by two logs falling across each other. I took one this way before the snow came, but he got away with my trap.
I have read and heard a lot about human scent and animals being afraid of it. I have seen enough to be sure that fox are not afraid of either human scent or steel traps, if the dirt is not disturbed around the trap.
When snow is plentiful so that sly Reynard may be tracked, then search out his haunts and find where he sleeps in the day time, says a Canadian hunter. They seldom go in holes in the winter, and in the bright sunny days are very sleepy. In tracking you will see marks where they have been lying, generally in some elevated position close to their haunts, where they may be caught napping as they often are caught. The snow should be soft so as to make the least noise possible, but it is astonishing the amount of noise you can make and still not disturb them, providing you have been thoughtful enough to keep the wind in your favor, as they are very quick to smell a person, so in consequence you should always face the wind and go easy in your search. The snow shoes are a great help when the snow is deep, as it is then that the fox is easiest gotten as they will not go far in the deep snow. Try it boys and be surprised at your success.
I will try and explain to you my method of catching fox alive, writes Howard Hurst, of Pennsylvania. Take a common box trap, put a wire partition about 4 inches from back end of trap. On the back end of trap put a wire door that you can open and shut. Take the trap to some good den, take a small live chicken and put in the back part of trap. The noise of the chicken will attract the foxes' attention and he will enter the trap door. I saw four caught this way last spring by a boy 9 years old.
I will mention how you can get a fox without bait, says Jarvis Green, of Maine. Look up an old path or wood road where you see that they have traveled, and notice a mound or rise of ground; now the foxes always stop to urinate on all such places. When you see the wind and atmosphere indicates a fall of snow, go and set your trap, smear with balsam of fir, cedar, hemlock or spruce, set your trap on center of mound and on one side stick up a tree branch to look as if grown there, about eight inches high, fasten trap to a clog by the middle, cover trap lightly with some fine substance. A drop or two of scent is sure of every one that comes along. Try this. The Blake & Lamb trap is best. I have only one fault with the single spring and that is the trencher is too large. On the new style if the animal steps on the edge of trencher, result is a toe or two will be left. Be careful in covering trap so that when it springs the jaws will shut tight.
When I was a boy I used to hunt foxes with dog and gun. In tracking them I noticed that they would go to every skunk that was killed, writes L. M. Cartwright, of Pennsylvania, near where they traveled, and nose around, but never saw where they ate any of it, so I used the scent successfully in catching them. I have caught many of them in No. 1 Newhouse trap fastened to a clog; had one to pull the staple out of a clog and carry trap as much as five miles before catching him, and if it had not been for a fresh fall of snow would have been out.
About as sure a way to catch fox (if you have the proper place) is to snare him. Here they very often cross the creek on logs or trees that have fallen across, when the creek is not frozen over. Take about three and a half feet of wire, such as is used for baling hay, make a snare, staple or spike the end of wire down on the side of the tree about the center of the creek, bend wire up so the loop comes over the center of log, make loop about seven or eight inches in diameter, set small bush on each side, stick in log and cover just over top of snare. If properly set will catch fox, coon and dogs (so it is best to set where dogs do not travel).
I suppose any log up from the ground high enough would do by using the scent from the female fox. Another way, drive a stake beside a log, set trap about six to nine inches away, pour fish brine on stake and see what it will do. This should be away from dogs.
My way of trapping the fox is by the old method. Take a bushel of buckwheat chaff and where foxes travel nearly every night scatter it about four feet around, and take a stick and pat the chaff down so it is nice and smooth all over the bed. Then take tallow cracklings and scatter them over the bed about a foot apart, then leave everything natural, and as soon as a fox takes the bait place your trap (which should be a double spring Newhouse or a No. 2 1/2 B. & L.) set it in center of bed and cover about 3/4 or 1 inch with chaff. Put cotton under pan so it will not hinder trap from springing. The trap should be fastened to a clog or drag hook. I say to young trappers try my way and you will be successful.
Do not spit or drop anything or touch anything with your bare hands, says a Vermont trapper. Yes, I know some say animals are not afraid of human scent. I have my ideas and know what I have to do to be successful. If others can make a success in a different way I will not disagree with them. You cut a stake, sharpen it at one end, cut it about 15 inches long, about 1 inch in diameter; leave a prong about three inches long and about three inches from top to stake down trap. I will set this No. 2 1/2 Blake now. I ask all of you to pay attention, as I have often made the assertion that I could set a fox trap before 400 persons and not ten of them would make fox trappers. Now let me set this trap and carry it set to this bank, which is a sharp knoll about two feet high. I take my digger and cut a sod 6 inches square. Now I dig a hole back in the bank 6 or 8 inches and about three inches across. Make the cavity large enough to set trap about 3 inches deep, place ring over stake and drive stake in ground under where you set the trap. Set trap so pan will be about three inches from mouth of hole and square in front of hole. Now with digger cover trap about 1/2 inch deep so it will be all covered evenly. Put two pieces of bait in hole beyond trap and about three inches from mouth, and one in further end of hole. Drop a few drops of scent at mouth of hole and the thing is done. If you have paid attention you will see that I have touched nothing with my hands and never stepped out of my tracks setting trap.
The fox is, without doubt, the most cunning of all cunning animals we trappers have to trap, says an Eastern trapper. Many times have I been to my fox traps to find one or so turned bottom side up and no fox. A fox will reach into a bed and take your bait with his paw, and I have trapped them when actions said plain as words, "you can't fool me."
I find the No. 1 1/2 Newhouse a very good trap for the fox, especially in early fall when the ground don't freeze. A fox will start on his nightly rounds and frequent small clearings in woods, sandy side hills and such places, and that is the place a trapper wants a few tanglefoot. I have trapped fox for quite a number of years, and I never caught one by accident yet. I always have to set for fox and fox only.
In regard to poisoning, I think that a man that uses it ought to be shot full of holes. In regard to iron smell, I will say that fox can smell iron, but bury your trap deep enough and you will be all right. A good scent is as follows: Take skunk essence, white of eggs, and let stand about one week. Use about five drops and I will warrant it to be the best fox scent made.
We all know it's difficult to catch the fox on dry land, although it is done, says a New England trapper. There are thousands of fox who fall victims to this way, and I believe it a more successful method than any in existence. I shall recommend a spring to set your trap in because the water does not rise or fall much, like a brook. Carefully dig out your spring in July or August, arranging it so that you will have it ready by fall, by placing a flat stone about fifteen inches from the stone so it will project above water about one inch; on top of this place a sod about three inches thick if possible, and have the edges come into the water so it will look natural. Cut your sods that you are to fix inside the trap, and lay up to dry when you prepare your place.
When the time is ready for setting your trap, go to the place by walking up the outlet of the spring or brook, using the greatest care, and not touch the brushes or anything around the trap; place your trap very near the edge of the spring, about six or eight inches from the sod; have the trap entirely under water, and place your sod, cut for the purpose, on the pan, have it cover all the space inside the trap, and be sure it is out of water enough to offer a dry footing for the fox, and not over two inches from the shore.
Some have the shore cut out so half the trap is on apparently dry land. Either way is all right. Place your bait on the side of the sod, using scent and being sure that your bait or scent cannot be reached except by the fox stepping on the pan of the trap, and you will get your fox.
When you visit your trap do not go too near, as all these things have their effect. I should recommend for bait cat or muskrat, a piece half the size of an egg is all right. It should be prepared by placing in a perfectly clean jar the number of bait you wish, and allow to taint, putting the scent in with the bait, or dropping on the bait after you place on sod. You must use the greatest care in handling your bait. Do not take out or place on the bait with your bare hands. Use a stick.
I have been waiting for some of the fox trappers of the Red River Valley, says a Minnesota trapper, to write and tell us how they manage to pinch Mr. Reynard's toes. I think we have a harder place here to trap fox than you Eastern fellows have. The country is just as level as a board and no timber, and we are liable to have a blizzard any hour. What makes it hard to trap is that the traps always blow in if you haven't got them in a good place. I have quite a trick to catch the fox, at least I have had the best luck with it. I first find a place where an old straw pile was burned, then smear my traps with blood and hide them good in ashes, erase all of my tracks and drop a few spirits of anise oil all around. For bait I generally use the entrails of a hog or beef. Last winter I caught two without any bait; just the oil. Last winter I had good luck with dead chickens. I always staple my traps to a clog of about twelve or fifteen pounds weight. On this clog I nailed the chicken and I got every fox that came around.
I only trapped one month with two traps, No. 2 Newhouse, and I got 6 fox and 1 wolf, and that was all the fox there were inside of about three or four miles, and I didn't have time to go further because I am a farmer and have my stock to tend.
If you know where there is a meadow with hay or straw stacked out on it, says Austin Palin, of Indiana, and if you will go to this stack after a little snow and there has been a fox in the field, he will be pretty sure to have gone to the stack to nose around. I first go and catch some fish about 6 or 8 inches long. I generally get suckers. I now clean my traps by boiling them in weak lye, then reboil them in evergreen boughs. I think it advisable to run beeswax over your trap, but I have had success without the beeswax.
After you have your traps cleaned and fixed do not handle them with your bare hands but put on a pair of gloves, take your trap and fish and a piece of wood about 4 feet long and the thickness of your arm and go to the stack. Now raise up the edge of the hay at the ground and slip the fish (one will be enough) back under the hay 6 or 8 inches, then set your trap directly in front of it, covering with the fine chaff; now fasten the trap chain to the piece of wood and slip the stick back under the stack, working it around a little so when the fox gets fast he can pull it out easily. Now take a stick and straighten out the hay over the trap and scratch out all signs and your set is complete. Make the above set when there is no snow.
We trapped foxes by baiting in beds mostly, says a Michigan trapper, though we caught five in the following manner: A wounded deer had fallen near two down trees which lap with tops crossed. We drew the deer into the apex or pen, as we noticed that foxes had been visiting the carcass. We cut notches out of these trees which were old and moss-covered, and set traps in the places prepared, covering neatly with moss.
Foxes are prone to walk convenient logs investigating anything that attracts them, and rarely look for danger under foot if the trap has been well placed and cleverly hidden. We smoked our traps and handled them with mittens.
The red fox is the only species that abounds in this locality, says Wm. Muchon, of Minnesota. When run by the hounds he usually keeps half a mile ahead, regulating his speed by that of the hounds, occasionally pausing a moment to divert himself with a mouse or to contemplate the landscape or to listen for his pursuer.
A most spirited and exciting chase occurs when the dogs gets close upon one in the open field. The fox relies so confidently upon his superior speed that I imagine he half tempts the dog to the race, but if he be a smart dog, and their course lies down hill over smooth ground, Reynard must put his best foot forward and then sometimes suffers the ignominy of being run over by his pursuer, who, however, is quite unable to pick him up, owing to the speed. But uphill and in the woods the superior nimbleness and agility of the fox tells at once.
Carry the carcass of a pig or a fowl to a distant field in mid-winter, and in a few nights his tracks cover the snow about it. The inexperienced youth, misled by this seeming carelessness of Reynard, suddenly conceives a project to enrich himself with fur, and wonders why the idea has not occurred to him before and to others. I knew a youthful yeoman of this kind who imagined he had found a mine of wealth discovering on a remote side hill between two woods a dead porker, upon which it appeared all the foxes of the neighborhood did nightly banquet.
The clouds were burdened with snow and as the first flakes began to eddy down he set out, trap and broom in hand, already counting over in imagination the silver quarters he would receive for the first fox skin. With the utmost care and with a palpitating heart he removed enough of the trodden snow to allow the trap to sink below the surface. The next morning at dawn he was on his way to bring his fur. The snow had done its work effectually, and he believed had kept his secret well.
Approaching nearer, the surface was unbroken, and doubt usurped the place of certainty in his mind. A slight wound marked the side of the porker, but there was no footprint near it. Looking up the hill, he saw where Reynard had walked leisurely down toward his wanted bacon till within a few yards when he had wheeled, and with prodigious strides disappeared in the woods. The stream of silver quarters suddenly set in another direction.
The successful trapper commences in the fall, or before the first deep snow. In a field not too remote with an old axe he cuts a small place, say ten inches by fourteen in the frozen ground, and removes the earth to the depth of three or four inches, then fills the cavity with dry ashes in which are placed bits of roasted cheese. Reynard is very suspicious and gives the place a wide berth, but the cheese is savory and the cold severe. He ventures a little closer every night until he can reach and pick out a piece from the ashes, and finding a fresh supply of the delectable morsels every night is soon thrown off his guard and his suspicions lulled.
After a week of baiting in this way, the trapper carefully conceals his trap in the bed, first smoking it thoroughly with hemlock boughs so as to kill all smell of iron. If the weather favors, and the proper precautions have been taken he may succeed, though the chances are still greatly against him.
I will say that we keep four of the best fox traps in the shape of four hounds that can be found in our part of the country, writes J. A. McKinnon, of Canada, and as for the month of November we sold $85.00 worth of fur, it will be easily seen that they pay for their keep. The fox hound, like the coon dog, must be a good one, properly bred and trained for the purpose, and they are never first class until they are two or three years old, although I have killed foxes ahead of dogs that were only nine months old, but these turned out to be exceptionally good dogs, and out of a litter of six or eight puppies half of the number may be worthless for what I call a good fox hound is one that will hunt for his fox alone, and that will run all day if necessary.
I went out on the first snow and in one day captured three foxes, two of which I shot, and the other ran into a hollow log; he was running so hard I believe he would have got into the rail if there had been no hole at all. I also find that the morning is the best time to find a fresh track, as it is then that Reynard is up and taking his morning walk through the old barren meadows, and partly cleared fields, in search of mice and other small game.
In my experience I find that the females do not move around so much in the day time as the males do, for they are shyer than the males and are possessed of more cunningness. In our travels we always mark any fox dens we come across, so as to pay them a friendly call after a fresh fall of snow.
We use the Winchester repeating shot guns, and find that for long range and quick shooting they are the best. We sometimes use our rifles but a fox is a small mark to shot at if he is running at full speed. Brother trappers, get a pair of good fox hounds and you will get more foxes than with all the traps you could set in a week.
I don't think there are many men now living that have skinned many more fox than I have, yet I can learn every year something new about Reynard, says O. Douglass, of Michigan. But what I do want to know is this: I see so much about water sets, and I don't understand how it can be done only for the fun of it. I have bought for many years, and I have as yet to see many prime water trapped fox. They are caught too early to be prime, and I can't see where the money comes in to pay for your trouble.
Now trappers, don't you think it is better to make some fine dry land sets in July or August and bait them once a week until they are prime, and you have them coming to your beds and they are not afraid of your work? I say this to young trappers. I have been trying all ways for sixty years and have caught them many different ways, but I do think the water set is the poorest way of all. Dry land sets for me every time in November and December.
I make my beds early and I use the scrap from hog's lard. I take one skunk scent bag to each bed to draw them to the bait, and when they come once they will call again.
I see where a buyer was called to buy 14 fox hides and only found one prime skin. All water caught. That is my experience with water caught fox. They have to be caught too early. It may be different in some localities, but not here, as the water is frozen by the time fox are prime. Try dry land sets and see if I am not right, and have more money for your work later on.
I always set two traps to one bed, and cover with dry dirt until it freezes. Then I use chaff. Handle all with clean gloves and be as cunning as a fox yourself.