The Project Gutenberg eBook of The Ascent of the Matterhorn, by Edward Whymper

[pg 315]

E. TABLE OF ATTEMPTS MADE TO ASCEND THE MATTERHORN PREVIOUS TO THE FIRST ASCENT.

No. of Attempt.	Date.	Names.	Side upon which the Attempt was made, and Place arrived at.	Greatest Height attained.	Remarks.
1	1858-9.	J.-Antoine Carrel. J.-Jacques Carrel Victor Carrel. Gab. Maquignaz. Abbé Gorret.	Breil side “Chimney.”	12,650	Several attempts were made before this height was attained; the men concerned cannot remember how many. See p. 46.
	1860.
2	July	Alfred Parker. Charles Parker. Sandbach Parker.	Zermatt side East face.	11,500?	Without guides. P. 46-7.
3	August	V. Hawkins. J. Tyndall.	Breil side Hawkins got to foot of “Great Tower,” Tyndall a few feet higher.	12,992 13,050?	Guides—J. J. Bennen and J.-Jacques Carrel. Pp. 47-9.
	1861.
4	July	Messrs. Parker	Zermatt side East face.	11,700?	No guides. P. 49.
5	Aug. 29	J.-Antoine Carrel. J.-Jacques Carrel.	Breil side “Crête du Coq.”	13,230	See p. 57.
6	Aug. 29-30	Edward Whymper	Breil side “Chimney.”	12,650	Camped upon the mountain, with an Oberland guide. Pp. 51-7.
	1862.
7	January	T. S. Kennedy	Zermatt side East face.	11,000?	Winter attempt. Pp. 58-9.
8	July 7-8	R. J. S. Macdonald. Edward Whymper.	Breil side Arête below “Chimney.”	12,000	Guides—Johann zum Taugwald and Johann Kronig. Pp. 64-5.
9	July 9-10	R. J. S. Macdonald. Edward Whymper.	Breil side “Great Tower.”	12,992	Guides—J.-A. Carrel and Pession. P. 66.
”	July 18-19	” ”	Breil side Somewhat higher than the lowest part of the “Cravate.”	13,400	Alone. Pp. 67-79.
10	July 23-24	” ”	Breil side “Crête du Coq.”	13,150	Guides—J.-A. Carrel, Cæsar Carrel, and Luc Meynet. P. 80.
11	July 25-26	” ”	Breil side Nearly as high as the highest part of the “Cravate.”	13,460	With Luc Meynet. Pp. 81-2.
12	July 27-28	J. Tyndall	Breil side “The Shoulder,” to foot of final peak.	13,970	Guides—J. J. Bennen and Anton Walter; porters—J.-Antoine Carrel, Cæsar Carrel, and another. Pp. 83-87, 90-92.
	1863.
13	Aug. 10-11	Edward Whymper	Breil side “Crête du Coq.”	13,280	Guides—J.-A. Carrel, Cæsar Carrel, Luc Meynet, and two porters. Pp. 114-123.
	1865.
14	June 21.	” ”	South-east face	11,200?	Guides—Michel Croz, Christian Almer, Franz Biener; porter—Luc Meynet. Pp. 231-235.

[pg 316]

F. ASCENTS OF THE MATTERHORN.

No. of Ascent	Date.	Names.	Route taken.	Remarks.
	1865.
1	July 13-15	Lord Francis Douglas. D. Hadow. Charles Hudson. Edward Whymper.	Zermatt (Or Northern route.)	Guides—Michel Croz, Peter Taugwalder père, Peter Taugwalder fils. See pp. 271-290.
2	July 16-18	Jean-Antoine Carrel. J. Baptiste Bich. Amé Gorret. J.-Augustin Meynet.	Breil (Or Southern route.)	The first two named only ascended to the summit. See pp. 282, 304-6.
	1867.
3	Aug. 13-15	F. Craufurd Grove	Breil	Guides—J. A. Carrel, Salamon Meynet, and J. B. Bich.
4	Sept. 12-14	Jos. Maquignaz. J.-Pierre Maquignaz. Victor Maquignaz. Cæsar Carrel. J.-B. Carrel.	Breil	An easier route was discovered by this party than that taken upon July 17, 1865. The first two named only ascended to the summit. See p. 309.
5	Oct. 1-3	W. Leighton Jordan	Breil	Guides—the Maquignaz’s just named, Cæsar Carrel, and F. Ansermin. The Maquignaz’s and Mr. Jordan alone reached the summit.
	1868.
6	July 24-25	J. M. Elliott	Zermatt	Guides—Jos. Marie Lochmatter and Peter Knubel.
7	July 26-28	J. Tyndall	Up Breil side and down Zermatt side.	Guides—Jos. and Pierre Maquignaz, and three others.
8	Aug. 2-4	O. Hoiler. F. Thioly.	” ?	Account given in hotel-book at Breil is not very clear. Guides seem to have been Jos. and Victor Maquignaz and Elie Pession.
9	Aug. 3-4	G. E. Foster	Zermatt	Guides—Hans Baumann, Peter Bernett, and Peter Knubel.
10	Aug. 8	Paul Guessfeldt	Zermatt	Guides—Jos. Marie Lochmatter, Nich. Knubel, and Peter Knubel.
11	Sept. 1-2	A. G. Girdlestone. F. Craufurd Grove. W. E. U. Kelso.	Zermatt	Guides—Jos. Marie Lochmatter and the two Knubels.
12	Sept. 2-3	G. B. Marke	Zermatt	Guides—Nich. Knubel and Pierre Zurbriggen (Saas).
13	Sept. 3-5	F. Giordano	Up Breil side and down Zermatt side.	Guides—J. A. Carrel and Jos. Maquignaz. See p. 310.
14	Sept. 8-9	Paul Sauzet	Breil	Guides—J. A. Carrel and Jos. Maquignaz.
	1869.
15	July 20	James Eccles	Breil	Guides—J. A. Carrel, Bich, and two Payots (Chamounix).
16	Aug. 26-27	R. B. Heathcote	Breil	Guides—The four Maquignaz’s (Val Tournanche).
	1870.
17	July 20 (?)	?	Zermatt	No details have come to hand.
	1871.
18	July 16-17	E. R. Whitwell	Zermatt	Guides—Ulrich and Ch. Lauener.
19	July 21-22	F. Gardiner. F. Walker. Lucy Walker.	Zermatt	Guides—Peter Perrn, P. Knubel, N. Knubel, Melchior Anderegg, and Heinrich Anderegg.
20	?	— Fowler	Zermatt	Guides—C. Knubel and J. M. Lochmatter.
21	Aug. 2-3	W. E. Utterson-Kelso	Breil	Guides—Victor and Emmanuel Maquignaz and Joseph Gillioz.
22	Aug. 7-8	R. S. Lyle	Breil	Guides—J. J. Maquignaz and ?
23	Aug. 18-19	C. E. Mathews. F. Morshead.	Breil	Guides—J. A. Carrel and Melchior Anderegg, with two porters.
24	Sept. 4-5	M. C. Brevoort. W. A. B. Coolidge.	Zermatt to Breil	Guides—Ch. Almer, Ulr. Almer, and N. Knubel.
25	Sept. 7-8	R. Fowler	Zermatt	Guides—J. M. Lochmatter and P. Knubel.
	1872.
26	July 22-23	F. Gardiner. T. Middlemore.	Zermatt to Breil	Guides—J. Maquignaz, Peter Knubel, and Johann Jaun.
27	July 21	H. Bicknell	?	Guides—Not known.
28	July 24-25	R. Pendlebury. W. M. Pendlebury. C. Taylor.	Zermatt to Breil	Guides—Peter Taugwalder fils, Gabriel Spechtenhauser, and F. Imseng.
29	July 26	J. Jackson	Breil to Zermatt	Guides—Jos. Maquignaz and Anton Ritz.
30	July ?	F. A. Wallroth	?	Guides—Not known.
31	Aug. 29-30	A. Rothschild	Zermatt	Guides—Franz Biener and two Knubels.
32	Sept. 1-2	G. A. Passingham	Zermatt	Guides—F. Imseng and Franz Andermatten.
33	Sept. 9-10	H. Denning. E. Hutchins. J. Young.	Zermatt	Guides—Melchior Schlapp, Peter Rubi, and two Knubels.
34	Sept. 10-11	L. Saunderson	Zermatt	Guides—Peter Bohren and Peter Knubel.
35	Sept. 11-12	E. Millidge	Zermatt	Guide— — Pollinger.
36	Sept. 11-12	D. J. Abercromby	Zermatt	Guides—N. Knubel and P. J. Knubel.
37	Sept. 16-17	C. Bronzet	Zermatt	Guides—P. Knubel, F. Truffer, and J. Truffer.
	1873.
38	July 6-7	T. Cox. J. Gardiner.	Zermatt	Guides—Peter Knubel and J. M. Lochmatter.
39	July 6-7	C. Théraulaz	Zermatt	Guides—J. Gillot and Ignace Sarbach.
40	July 21-22	A. F. Leach	Zermatt	Guides—P. Taugwalder fils and J. M. Kronig.
41	July 21-22	T. A. Bishop	Zermatt	Guides—P. Knubel, P. J. Knubel, and F. Devouassoud.
42	July 23-24	H. Salmond	Breil	Guides—Not known.
43	July 23-24	A. G. Puller.	Breil to Zermatt	Guides—J. A. Carrel and Jos. Maquignaz.
44	July 25-26	E. Leatham	Zermatt	Guides—P. Knubel and Joseph Imboden.
45	July 25-27	W. W. Simpson	Breil to Zermatt	Guides—J. A. Carrel, P. Maquignaz, and a Chamounix guide.
46	July 29-30	M. Déchy	Zermatt	Guides—J. A. Carrel and P. Taugwalder fils.
47	Aug. 3	J. Bischoff. E. Burckhardt.	Zermatt	Guides—
48	Aug. 6-7	Emile Veyrin	Zermatt	Guides—P. J. Knubel; porter, Joh. Knubel.
49	Aug. 9-10	L. Ewbank	Zermatt	Guides—J. M. and Alex. Lochmatter.
50	Aug. 11	G. E. Hulton. F. C. Hulton.	Zermatt	Guides—Ch. Lauener, Johann Fischer, and Peter Rubi.
51	Aug. 11-12	Marquis Maglioni	Zermatt	Guides—P. Knubel, Edouard Capelin; porter H. Knubel.
52	Aug. 14-15	F. Dawkins	Zermatt	Guides—Franz Andermatten, A. Burgener; porter, Abraham Imseng.
53	Aug. 15-16	J. F. Bramston. F. Morshead. C. H. Hawkins.	Zermatt	Guides—Melchior Anderegg, B. Nageli, and J. M. Lochmatter.
54	Aug. 16	H. S. Hoare	Zermatt	Guides—Johann von Bergen and A. Pollinger.
55	Aug. 18-22	E. Pigeon. — Pigeon.	Breil to Zermatt	Guides—J. A. Carrel, V. Maquignaz, and J. Martin. This party was confined in the hut on the Italian side from the 18th to the 21st of August, by bad weather; and in descending upon the Zermatt side it was surprised by night before the cabane could be reached, and had to pass the night on the open mountain-side.
56	Aug. 22-23	F. P. Barlow	Zermatt	Guides—Jakob Anderegg and P. Taugwalder fils.
57	Oct 2-3	W. W. Stuart	Breil to Zermatt	Guides—Jos. Maquignaz, F. Bic, and Jos. Balmat.
	1874.
58	July 14-15	T. G. Bonney	Zermatt	Guides—J. M. Lochmatter and J. Petrus.
59	July 17-18	F. Wolf	Zermatt	Guides—A. Pollinger and Jos. Lauber.
60	July 18-19	A. Millot and wife	Zermatt	Guides—Melchior Anderegg, A. Maurer, and P. Taugwalder fils.
61	July ?	H. Lamb	?	Guides—Not known.
62	July 19-20	J. Baumann	Zermatt	Guide-Ulrich Lauener.
63	July 23-24	? E. Javelle	Breil to Zermatt	Guides—
64	July 27-29	L. K. Rankine	Zermatt	Guides—A. Pollinger and Jos. Längen.
65	Aug. 7	J. Birkbeck, Jun.	Breil to Breil	Guides—J. Petrus and J. B. Bic. Mr. Birkbeck and his guides started from Breil, crossed the mountain to the northern side, and returned to Breil, in 19 hours.
66	Aug. 7-8	G. F. Cobb. S. Forster. A. M. Tod.	Zermatt	Guides—P. Taugwalder fils, Jos. Taugwalder, and A. Summermatter.
67	Aug. 7-8	M. Bramston	Zermatt	Guide—B. Nageli.
68	Aug. 12	G. Dévin	Zermatt	Guides—L. Pollinger and Henri Séraphin.
69	Aug. 19-20	L. N. Walford	Zermatt	Guides—Alex. Burgener and B. Venetz.
70	Aug. 20-21	A. D. Puckle	Zermatt	Guides—J. Petrus and N. Knubel.
71	Aug. 20-21	R. Lindt	Zermatt	Guides—Ig. Sarbach and Peter Sulzer.
72	Aug. 20-22	Edward Whymper	Zermatt	Guides—J. A. Carrel, J. B. Bic, and J. M. Lochmatter. An ascent made for the sake of photography. Passed two nights in the Zermatt cabane.
73	Aug. 22-23	W. E. Davidson	Zermatt	Guides—Laurent Lanier and Ig. Sarbach.
74	Aug. 23	Prof. G. B—— Prof. K——	?	Guides—P. Maquignaz, E. Pession, and Chas. Gorret. Account is illegible.
75	Aug. 25	F. W. Headley. E. P. Arnold.	Zermatt	Guides—A. Pollinger and J. J. Truffer.
76	Aug. 25	H. J. Smith	Zermatt	Guides—Alex. Lochmatter and Jos. Längen.
77	Aug. 25	M. J. Boswell	Zermatt	Guides—Jos. Imboden and Jos. Sarbach.
78	Aug. 26	W. J. Lewis	Zermatt	Guides—Moritz Julen and Jos. Taugwalder.
79	Aug. 27	W. Stirling	Zermatt	Guides—Johann Petrus and Franz Burgener.
80	Aug. 28	J. H. Pratt. — Prothero.	Zermatt	Guides—J. A. Carrel and P. Knubel. Ascent made in one day.
81	Aug. 31	H. N. Malan	Zermatt	Guides—Jean Martin and A. Lochmatter.
82	Sept. 1-2	W. A. Lewis	Zermatt	Guides—J. M. Lochmatter and P. Imboden.
83	Sept. 2	E. Dent. C. T. Dent.	Zermatt	Guide—A. Burgener.
84	Sept. 2	J. W. Borel	Zermatt	Guides—A. Pollinger and J. J. Truffer.
85	Sept. 3	Ernst Calbenla	Zermatt	Guides—P. Bohren and P. Müller.
86	Sept. 8	A. H. Simpson. M. Cullinan.	Zermatt	Guides—P. Knubel, P. J. Knubel, and P. Truffer.
87	Sept. 8	A. H. Burton	Zermatt	Guides—P. Baumann, P. Taugwalder, and B. Nageli.
88	Sept. 9	E. Pigeon. — Pigeon.	Zermatt	Guides—N. and J. Knubel, and F. Sarbach.
89	Sept. 16-17	W. Nägeli	Zermatt	Guides—J. and P. Knubel.
	1875.
90	May 10	— Corona	?	Guides—J. A. Carrel and J. J. Maquignaz. Account is perfectly illegible.
91	Aug. 2-3	L. Brioschi	Zermatt	Guides—F. and A. Imseng and P. J. Andermatten.
92	Aug. 10	J. W. Hartley	Zermatt	Guides—P. Rubi and J. Moser.
93	Aug. 10-11	F. T. Wethered	Zermatt	Guides—Ch. Almer and A. Pollinger.
94	Aug. 11	A. Fairbanks. W. Fairbanks.	Zermatt	Guide—J. Perrn, and a porter.
95	Aug. 12	D. L. Pickman	Zermatt	Guides—J. Taugwalder and F. Biener. Ascent made in one day.
96	Aug. 16	D. Merritt	Zermatt	Guides—No information.
97	Aug. 16	E. Hornby	Zermatt	Guides—A. and F. Pollinger.
98	Aug. 16	J. J. Morgan. C. L. Morgan.	Zermatt	Guides—J. Imboden and J. Sarbach.
99	Aug. 16	A. W. Payne	Zermatt	Guide—J. Taugwalder.
100	Aug. 17	J. H. Pratt. W. Leaf.	Breil to Zermatt	Guides—J. A. Carrel and N. Knubel.
101	Aug. 19-20	F. Tendron. G. F. Vernon.	Zermatt	Guides—F. and P. Sarbach and J. Taugwalder.
102	Aug. 23-24	H. R. Whitehouse	Zermatt	Guides—P. J. Knubel and P. T. Truffer.
103	Aug. 26-27	F. Morshead. A. O. Prickard. H. S. Wilson.	Zermatt	Guides—M. Anderegg, Ch. Lauener, and J. Moser.
104	Sept. 7	H. G. Gotch	Zermatt	Guides—Ig. and Jos. Sarbach.
105	Sept. 8	R. King	Zermatt	Guides—J. A. Carrel and Jos. Coulter, and (porter) A. Payot.
106	Sept. 8	H. Loschge	Breil to Zermatt	Guides—J. Petrus and A. Ranier.
107	Sept. 9	P. Methuen	Zermatt	Guides—Johann Jaun and A. Maurer.
108	Sept. 14	— Butter	Zermatt	Guides—Jos. Imboden and J. Brantschen.
109	Sept. 15	W. Kittan	Zermatt	Guides—J. Petrus and Franz Burgener.
	1876.
110	July 22-23	A. H. Cawood. J. B. Colgrove. A. Cust.	Zermatt	Without guides, and with two porters.
111	July 29	J. Hazel. W. F. Loverell.	Zermatt	Guides—P. Maquignaz and F. Zuber.
112	July 30	Eug. Dacqué	Zermatt	Guides—Borren (Bohren?) and Platter (?).
113	Aug. 3-4	F. Corbett. M. Courtenay.	Zermatt	Guides—F. Burgener, P. Taugwalder fils, and J. Taugwalder.
114	Aug. 3-4	P. A. Singer. P. A. Singer.	Zermatt	Guides—J. Imboden, Jos. Perrn, P. Perrn, and F. Perrn (porter).
115	Aug. 6-7	D. E. Cardinal	Zermatt	Guides—Pierre Carrel and Louis Carrel.
116	Aug. 7	F. Reiners. M. Haushofer.	Zermatt	Guides—P. and J. Knubel.
117	Aug. 8-9	H. de Saussure	Zermatt	Guides—A. Burgener and J. Knubel.
118	Aug. 8-9	W. Cooke	Zermatt	Guides—Louis Carrel and Pierre Carrel.
119	Aug. 8-9	J. J. Bischoff	Zermatt	Guides—J. Petrus, P. T. Truffer, and another.
120	Aug. 9	Joseph Seiler	Zermatt	Guides— — Lauber and ? An one day ascent.
121	Aug. 9-10	W. J. Whelpdale. C. Weightmann.	Zermatt	Guides—J. M. Lochmatter, A. Ritz, and Jos. Brantschen as porter.
122	Aug. 10	P. Watson	Zermatt	Guides—Alex. Burgener and B. Venetz.
123	Aug. 12	S. Waller. G. Fitzgerald.	Zermatt	Guides—J. M. Lochmatter and J. Lauber.
124	Aug. 12	H. Meyer. C. Estertag.	Zermatt	Guides—Jos. Brantschen, P. J. Knubel, and Jos. Taugwalder.
125	Aug. 12	J. Jackson. T. H. Kitson.	Zermatt	Guides—Christian and Ulrich Almer. Ascent in one day.
126	Aug. 12	Jos. Nantermod	Zermatt	Guides—A. Pollinger and B. Andenmatten.
127	Aug. 14	C. E. Mathews. F. Morshead.	Zermatt	Guides—M. Anderegg and ? Ascent made in one day.
128	(?)	— Dent.	Zermatt	Guide—Alex. Burgener.
129	Aug. 28-29	G. W. Prothero.	Zermatt to Breil	Guide—J. A. Carrel.
	1877.
130	Aug. 4	O. Boenaud. G. Mermod. L. Mermod.	Zermatt	Guides—No information.
131	Aug. 13-14	Q. Sella. L. Biraghi.	Zermatt to Breil	Guides—J. A. Carrel, — Imseng, J. B. Carrel, Louis Carrel, Jos. and Vict. Maquignaz, etc. etc.
132	Aug. 19	W. H. Grenfell. J. H. A. Peebles.	Breil	Guides— — Imseng and ?
133	Aug. 20	W. Penhall	Zermatt	Guides—Jos. Imboden and P. Taugwalder fils.
134	Aug. 24-25	G. Fitzgerald	Zermatt	Guides—J. M. Lochmatter and Joseph Lauber.
135	Aug. 29	J. A. Cooper	Zermatt	Guides—Alex and Alois Burgener.
136	Aug. 30	J. D. Griffiths	Zermatt	Guides—Basile Andenmatten and ?
137	Aug. 30	J. F. Yearsley	Zermatt	Guides—F. Burgener, P. Andenmatten, and (porter) — Blumenthal.
138	Aug. 30-31	J. C. Leman	Zermatt	Guides— — Pollinger and ?
139	Aug. 30-31	T. de Cambray Digny	Zermatt to Breil	Guides—J. A. Carrel and Henri Séraphin.
140	Sept. 4	J. Freitschke	Zermatt	Guide—Basile Andenmatten.
141	Sept. 4-5	H. Loschge	Zermatt to Breil	Guides—Alex. Burgener and a Tyrol guide.
142	Sept. 6-7	J. Nérot	Breil to Zermatt	Guides—J. A. Carrel, a Chamounix guide, and a porter.
	1878.
143	?	T. Jose	Zermatt	Guides—J. M. Lochmatter, P. Knubel, and Pierre Truffer.
144	Sept. 7	Carl Hecke	Zermatt	Guide—Basile Andenmatten.
145	Sept. 9	Jules Seiler	Zermatt	Guides—P. Knubel and Basile Andenmatten.
146	Sept. 21	Dr. Minnigerode	Zermatt	Guides—J. M. Lochmatter and J. Taugwalder.
147	Sept. 11-12	C. J. Thompson	Zermatt	Guides—J. A. Carrel and — Imseng.
	1879.
148	Aug. 12-13	Dr. Lüscher. Prof. Schiess.	Up Breil side and down Zermatt side.	Guides—J. M. Lochmatter, Jos. Brantschen, and Petryson (Evolena). Brantschen was left behind in the hut on the “cravate,” and died there.
149	Aug. 13	W. W. R. Powell	Zermatt	Guides—Peter Taugwalder fils and A. Imseng.
150	Aug. 13-14	C. E. Freeman	Breil to Zermatt	Guides—J. A. Carrel and—Sopersac (Saas).
151	Aug. 13-14	A. E. Craven. W. O. Moseley.	Zermatt	Guides—P. Rubi and C. Inabnit. Dr. Moseley lost his life in descending the mountain. See Appendix D.
152	Aug. 28-29	C. E. B. Watson	Zermatt to Breil	Guides—P. Anderegg and A. Imboden.
153	Aug. 30-Sept. 1	G. H. Savage	Zermatt	Guides—Jos. Imboden and Franz Andermatten. Dr. Savage slept on the Hörnli Aug. 30; began the ascent by moonlight at a little before 2 A.M. on Sept. 1, reached the summit at 6.30 A.M., and returned to Zermatt by 12.30 P.M.
154	Sept. 2-3	A. F. Mummery	Z’Mutt side	Mr. Mummery was the first to ascend the Matterhorn from the side of the Z’Mutt Glacier. No details have been received.
155	Sept. 2-3	W. Penhall	Z’Mutt side	Guides—Ferdinand Imseng and Louis Sorbrichen. Mr. Penhall also made his ascent upon the Z’Mutt side, but took a route more to the south than that followed by Mr. Mummery.
156	Sept. 4-5	B. Wainewright	Zermatt to Breil	Guides—Jos. Imboden and Peter Sarbach.
157	Sept. 4-5	H. Hoare	Zermatt	Guide—J. Anderegg and (porter) Jos. Chanton.
158	Sept. 5-6	J. Baumann	Z’Mutt side	Guides—Petrus (Stalden) and Emile Rey. Mr. Mummery’s route was followed.
159	?	J. Maurer	Breil to Zermatt	Guides—? No information.

The above table is known to be imperfect, and the Author will be obliged if correspondents will enable him to correct and extend it. Communications should be addressed to him Care of the Publisher.