To George Borrow, Esq.

Booton Rectory, Norwich, Nov. 5, 1853.

My dear Mr. Borrow,—You bore your mishap with a philosophic patience, and started with an energy which gives the best earnest that you would arrive safe and sound at Norwich.

I was happy to find yesterday morning, by the arrival of your kind present, a sure notification that you were well home.

Many thanks for the tea, which we drink with great zest and diligence.  My legs are not as long as yours, nor my breath either.  You soon made me feel that I must either turn back or be left behind, so I chose the former.  Mrs. Elwin and my children desire their kind regards.  They one and all enjoyed your visit.  Believe me, very truly yours,

W. Elwin.

I have said that I possess large portions of Lavengro in manuscript.  Borrow’s always helpful wife, however, copied out the whole manuscript for the publishers, and this “clean copy” came to Dr. Knapp, who found even here a few pages of very valuable writing deleted, and these he has very rightly restored in Mr. Murray’s edition of Lavengro.  Why Borrow took so much pains to explain that his wife had copied Lavengro, as the following document implies, I cannot think.  I find in his handwriting this scrap of paper signed by Mary Borrow, and witnessed by her daughter:

Janry. 30, 1869,

This is to certify that I transcribed The Bible in Spain, Lavengro, and some other works of my husband George Borrow, from the original manuscripts.  A considerable portion of the transcript of Lavengro was lost at the printing-office where the work was printed.

Mary Borrow.

Witness: Henrietta M., daughter of Mary Borrow.

It only remains here to state the melancholy fact once again that Lavengro, great work of literature as it is now universally acknowledged to be, was not “the book of the year.”  The three thousand copies of the first issue took more than twenty years to sell, and it was not until 1872 that Mr. Murray resolved to issue a cheaper edition.  The time was not ripe for the cult of the open road, the zest for “the wind on the heath” that our age shares so keenly.

CHAPTER XXV
A Visit to Cornish Kinsmen

If Borrow had been a normal man of letters he would have been quite satisfied to settle down at Oulton, in a comfortable home, with a devoted wife.  The question of money was no longer to worry him.  He had moreover a money-making gift, which made him independent in a measure of his wife’s fortune.  From The Bible in Spain he must have drawn a very considerable amount, considerable, that is, for a man whose habits were always somewhat penurious.  The Bible in Spain would have been followed up, were Borrow a quite other kind of man, by a succession of books almost equally remunerative.  Even for one so prone to hate both books and bookmen there was always the wind on the heath, the gypsy encampment, the now famous “broad,” not then the haunt of innumerable trippers.  But Borrow ever loved wandering more than writing.  Almost immediately after his marriage—in 1840—he hinted to the Bible Society of a journey to China; a year later, in June, 1841, he suggested to Lord Clarendon that Lord Palmerston might give him a consulship: he consulted Hasfeld as to a possible livelihood in Berlin, and Ford as to travel in Africa.  He seems to have endured residence at Oulton with difficulty during the succeeding three years, and in 1844 we find him engaged upon the continental travel that we have already recorded.  In 1847 he had hopes of the consulship at Canton, but Bowring wanted it for himself, and a misunderstanding over this led to an inevitable break of old friendship.  Borrow’s passionate love of travel was never more to be gratified at the expense of others.  He tried, indeed, to secure a journey to the East from the British Museum Trustees, and then gave up the struggle.  Further wanderings, which were many, were to be confined to Europe and indeed to England, Scotland, Ireland, and the Isle of Man.  His first journey, however, was not at his own initiative.  Mrs. Borrow’s health was unequal to the severe winters at Oulton, and so the Borrows made their home at Yarmouth from 1853 to 1860.  During these years he gave his vagabond propensities full play.  No year passed without its record of wandering.  His first expedition was the outcome of a burst of notoriety that seems to have done for Borrow what the success of his Bible in Spain could not do—reveal his identity to his Cornish relations.  The Bury Post of 17th September, 1853, recorded that Borrow had at the risk of his life saved at least one member of a boat’s crew wrecked on the coast at Yarmouth:

The moment was an awful one, when George Borrow, the well-known author of Lavengro and The Bible in Spain, dashed into the surf and saved one life, and through his instrumentality the others were saved.  We ourselves have known this brave and gifted man for years, and, daring as was his deed, we have known him more than once to risk his life for others.  We are happy to add that he has sustained no material injury.

This paragraph in the Bury St. Edmunds newspaper was copied into the Plymouth Mail, and was there read by the Borrows of Cornwall, who had heard nothing of their relative, Thomas Borrow the army captain, and his family for fifty years or more.  One of Borrow’s cousins by marriage, Robert Taylor of Penquite, invited him to his father’s homeland, and Borrow accepted, glad, we may be sure, of any excuse for a renewal of his wanderings.  And so on the 23rd of December, 1853, Borrow made his way from Yarmouth to Plymouth by rail, and thence walked twenty miles to Liskeard, where quite a little party of Borrow’s cousins were present to greet him.  The Borrow family consisted of Henry Borrow of Looe Down, the father of Mrs. Taylor, William Borrow of Trethinnick, Thomas Nicholas and Elizabeth Borrow, all first cousins, except Anne Taylor.  Anne, talking to a friend, describes Borrow on this visit better than any one else has done:

A fine tall man of about six feet three; well-proportioned and not stout; able to walk five miles an hour successively; rather florid face without any hirsute appendages; hair white and soft; eyes and eyebrows dark; good nose and very nice mouth; well-shaped hands;—altogether a person you would notice in a crowd.

Borrow stayed at Penquite with his cousins from 24th December to 9th January, then he went on a walking tour to Land’s End, through Truro and Penzance; he was back at Penquite from 26th January to 1st February, and then took a week’s tramp to Tintagel, King Arthur’s Castle, and Pentire.  Naturally he made inquiries into the language, already extinct, but spoken within the memory of the older inhabitants.  “My relations are most excellent people,” he wrote to his wife from London on his way back, “but I could not understand more than half of what they said.”

I have only one letter to Mrs. Borrow written during this tour:

To Mrs. George Borrow

Penquite, 27th Janry. 1854.

My dear Carreta,—I just write you a line to inform you that I have got back safe here from the Land’s End.  I have received your two letters, and hope you received mine from the Land’s End.  It is probable that I shall yet visit one or two places before I leave Cornwall.  I am very much pleased with the country.  When you receive this if you please write a line by return of post I think you may; the Trethinnick people wish me to stay with them for a day or two.  When you see the Cobbs pray remember me to them; I am sorry Horace has lost his aunt, he will miss her.  Love to Hen.  Ever yours, dearest,

G. Borrow.

(Keep this.)

It was the failure of The Romany Rye that prevented Borrow from writing the Cornish book that he had caused to be advertised in the flyleaf of that work.  Borrow would have made a beautiful book upon Cornwall.  Even the title, Penquite and Pentyre; or, The Head of the Forest and the Headland, has music in it.  And he had in these twenty weeks made himself wonderfully well acquainted not only with the topography of the principality, but with its folklore and legend.  The gulf that ever separated the Borrow of the notebook and the unprepared letter from the Borrow of the finished manuscript was extraordinary, and we may deplore with Mr. Walling the absence of this among Borrow’s many unwritten books.

Borrow was back in Yarmouth at the end of February, 1854—he had not fled the country as Dalrymple had suggested—but in July he was off again for his great tour in Wales, in which he was accompanied by his wife and daughter.  Of that tour we must treat in another and later chapter, for Wild Wales was not published until 1862.  The year following his great tour in Wales he went on a trip to the Isle of Man.

CHAPTER XXVI
In the Isle of Man

The holiday which Borrow gave himself the year following his visit to Wales, that is to say, in September, 1855, is recorded in his unpublished diaries.  He never wrote a book as the outcome of that journey, although he caused one to be advertised under the title of Bayr Jairgey and Glion Doo: Wanderings in Search of Manx Literature.  Borrow, it will be remembered, learnt the Irish language as a mere child, much to his father’s disgust.  Although he never loved the Irish people, the Celtic Irish, that is to say, whose genial temperament was so opposed to his own, he did love the Irish language, which he more than once declared had incited him to become a student of many tongues.  He never made the mistake into which so many have fallen of calling it “Erse.”  He was never an accurate student of the Irish language, but among Englishmen he led the way in the present-day interest in that tongue—an interest which is now so pronounced among scholars of many nationalities, and has made in Ireland so definite a revival of a language that for a time seemed to be on the way to extinction.  Two translations from the Irish are to be found in his Targum published so far back as 1835, and many other translations from the Irish poets were among the unpublished manuscripts that he left behind him.  It would therefore be with peculiar interest that he would visit the Isle of Man which, at the beginning of the nineteenth century, was an Irish-speaking land, but in 1855 was at a stage when the language was falling fast into decay.  What survived of it was still Irish with trifling variations in the spelling of words.  “Cranu,” a tree, for example, had become “Cwan,” and so on—although the pronunciation was apparently much the same.  When the tall, white-haired Englishman talked to the older inhabitants who knew something of the language they were delighted.  “Mercy upon us,” said one old woman, “I believe, sir, you are of the old Manx!”  Borrow was actually wandering in search of Manx literature, as the title of the book that he announced implied.  He inquired about the old songs of the island, and of everything that survived of its earlier language.  Altogether Borrow must have had a good time in thus following his favourite pursuit.

But these stories are less human than a notebook in my hands.  This is a long leather pocket-book, in which, under the title of “Expedition to the Isle of Man,” we have, written in pencil, a quite vivacious account of his adventures.  It records that Borrow and his wife and daughter set out through Bury to Peterborough, Rugby, and Liverpool.  It tells of the admiration with which Peterborough’s “noble cathedral” inspired him.  Liverpool he calls a “London in miniature”:

Strolled about town with my wife and Henrietta; wonderful docks and quays, where all the ships of the world seemed to be gathered—all the commerce of the world to be carried on; St. George’s Crescent; noble shops; strange people walking about, an Herculean mulatto, for example; the old china shop; cups with Chinese characters upon them; an horrible old Irishwoman with naked feet; Assize Hall a noble edifice.

The party left Liverpool on 20th August, and Borrow, when in sight of the Isle of Man, noticed a lofty ridge of mountains rising to the clouds:

Entered into conversation with two of the crew—Manx sailors—about the Manx language; one, a very tall man, said he knew only a very little of it as he was born on the coast, but that his companion, who came from the interior, knew it well; said it was a mere gibberish.  This I denied, and said it was an ancient language, and that it was like the Irish; his companion, a shorter man, in shirt sleeves, with a sharp, eager countenance, now opened his mouth and said I was right, and said that I was the only gentleman whom he had ever heard ask questions about the Manx language.  I spoke several Irish words which they understood.

When he had landed he continued his investigations, asking every peasant he met the Manx for this or that English word:

“Are you Manx?” said I.  “Yes,” he replied, “I am Manx.”  “And what do you call a river in Manx?”  “A river,” he replied.  “Can you speak Manx?” I demanded.  “Yes,” he replied, “I speak Manx.”  “And you call a river a river?”  “Yes,” said he, “I do.”  “You don’t call it owen?” said I.  “I do not,” said he.  I passed on, and on the other side of the bridge went for some time along an avenue of trees, passing by a stone water-mill, till I came to a public-house on the left hand.  Seeing a woman looking out of the window, I asked her to what place the road led.  “To Castletown,” she replied.  “And what do you call the river in Manx?” said I.  “We call it an owen,” said she.  “So I thought,” I replied, and after a little further discourse returned, as the night was now coming fast on.

One man whom Borrow asked if there were any poets in Man replied that he did not believe there were, that the last Manx poet had died some time ago at Kirk Conoshine, and this man had translated Parnell’s Hermit beautifully, and the translation had been printed.  He inquired about the Runic Stones, which he continually transcribed.  Under date Thursday, 30th August, we find the following:

This day year I ascended Snowdon, and this morning, which is very fine, I propose to start on an expedition to Castletown and to return by Peel.

Very gladly would I follow Borrow more in detail through this interesting holiday by means of his diary, [197] but it would make my book too long.  As he had his wife and daughter with him there are no letters by him from the island.

Three years later we find that Borrow has not forgotten the friends of that Manx holiday.  This letter is from the Vicar of Malew in acknowledgment of a copy of The Romany Rye published in the interval:

To George Borrow, Esq.

Malew Vicarage, Ballasalla,
Isle of Man, 27 Jany. 1859.

My dear Sir,—I return you my most hearty thanks for your most handsome present of Romany Rye, and no less handsome letter relative to your tour in the Isle of Man and the literature of the Manx.  Both I value very highly, and from both I shall derive useful hints for my introduction to the new edition of the Manx Grammar.  I hope you will have no objection to my quoting a passage or two from the advertisement of your forthcoming book; and if I receive no intimation of your dissent, I shall take it for granted that I have your kind permission.  The whole notice is so apposite to my purpose, and would be so interesting to every Manxman, that I would fain insert the whole bodily, did the Author and the limits of an Introduction permit.  The Grammar will, I think, go to press in March next.  It is to be published under the auspices of “The Manx Society,” instituted last year “for the publication of National documents of the Isle of Man.”  As soon as it is printed I hope to beg the favour of your acceptance of a copy.—I am, my dear Sir, your deeply obliged humble servant,

William Gill.

CHAPTER XXVII
Oulton Broad and Yarmouth

George Borrow wandered far and wide, but he always retraced his footsteps to East Anglia, of which he was so justly proud.  From his marriage in 1840 until his death in 1881 he lived twenty-seven years at Oulton or at Yarmouth.  “It is on sand alone that the sea strikes its true music,” Borrow once remarked, “Norfolk sand”—and it was in the waves and on the sands of the Norfolk coast that Borrow spent the happiest hours of his restless life.  Oulton Cottage is only about two miles from Lowestoft, and so, walking or driving, these places were quite near one another.  But both are in Suffolk.  Was it because Yarmouth—ten miles distant—is in Norfolk that it was always selected for seaside residence?  I suspect that the careful Mrs. Borrow found a wider selection of “apartments” at a moderate price.  In any case the sea air of Yarmouth was good for his wife, and the sea bathing was good for him, and so we find that husband and wife had seven separate residences at Yarmouth during the years of Oulton life. [199]  But Oulton was ever to be Borrow’s headquarters, even though between 1860 and 1874 he had a house in London.  Borrow was thirty-seven years of age when he settled down at Oulton.  He was, he tells us in The Romany Rye, “in tolerably easy circumstances and willing to take some rest after a life of labour.”  Their home was a cottage on the Broad, for the Hall, which was also Mrs. Borrow’s property, was let on lease to a farmer.  The cottage, however, was an extremely pleasant residence with a lawn running down to the river.  A more substantial house has been built on this site since Borrow’s day.  The summer-house is generally assumed to be the same, but has certainly been re-roofed since the time when Henrietta Clarke drew the picture of it that is reproduced in this book.  Probably the whole summer-house is new, but at any rate the present structure stands on the site of the old one.  Here Borrow did his work, wrote and wrote and wrote, until he had, as he said, “mountains of manuscripts.”  Here first of all he completed The Zincali (1841), commenced in Seville; then he wrote or rather arranged The Bible in Spain (1843), and then at long intervals, diversified by extensive travel holidays, he wrote Lavengro (1851), The Romany Rye (1857), and Wild Wales (1860)—these are the five books and their dates that we most associate with Borrow’s sojourn at Oulton.  When Wild Wales was published he had removed to London.

By far the best glimpses of Borrow during these years of Suffolk life are those contained in a letter contributed by his friend, Elizabeth Harvey, to The Eastern Daily Press of Norwich over the initials “E. H.”:

When I knew Mr. Borrow he lived in a lovely cottage whose garden sloped down to the edge of Oulton Broad.  He had a wooden room built on the very margin of the water, where he had many strange old books in various languages.  I remember he once put one before me, telling me to read it.  “Oh, I can’t,” I replied.  He said, “You ought, it’s your own language.”  It was an old Saxon book.  He used to spend a great deal of his time in this room writing, translating, and at times singing strange words in a stentorian voice, while passers-by on the lake would stop to listen with astonishment and curiosity to the singular sounds.  He was 6 feet 3 inches, a splendid man, with handsome hands and feet.  He wore neither whiskers, beard, nor moustache.  His features were very handsome, but his eyes were peculiar, being round and rather small, but very piercing, and now and then fierce.  He would sometimes sing one of his Romany songs, shake his fist at me and look quite wild.  Then he would ask, “Aren’t you afraid of me?”  “No, not at all,” I would say.  Then he would look just as gentle and kind, and say, “God bless you, I would not hurt a hair of your head.”  He was an expert swimmer, and used to go out bathing, and dive under water an immense time.  On one occasion he was bathing with a friend, and after plunging in nothing was seen of him for some while.  His friend began to be alarmed, when he heard Borrow’s voice a long way off exclaiming, “There, if that had been written in one of my books they would have said it was a lie, wouldn’t they?”  He was very fond of animals, and the animals were fond of him.  He would go for a walk with two dogs and a cat following him.  The cat would go a quarter of a mile or so and then turn back home.  He delighted to go for long walks and enter into conversation with any one he might meet on the road, and lead them into histories of their lives, belongings, and experiences.  When they used some word peculiar to Norfolk (or Suffolk) countrymen he would say, “Why, that’s a Danish word.”  By and by the man would use another peculiar expression, “Why, that’s Saxon”; a little later on another, “Why, that’s French.”  And he would add, “Why, what a wonderful man you are to speak so many languages.”  One man got very angry, but Mr. Borrow was quite unconscious that he had given any offence.  He spoke a great number of languages, and at the Exhibition of 1851, whither he went with his stepdaughter, he spoke to the different foreigners in their own language, until his daughter saw some of them whispering together and looking as if they thought he was “uncanny,” and she became alarmed and drew him away.  He, however, did not like to hear the English language adulterated with the introduction of foreign words.  If his wife or friends used a foreign word in conversation, he would say, “What’s that, trying to come over me with strange languages.”

I have gone for many a walk with him at Oulton.  He used to go on, singing to himself or quite silent, quite forgetting me until he came to a high hill, when he would turn round, seize my hand, and drag me up.  Then he would sit down and enjoy the prospect.  He was a great lover of nature, and very fond of his trees.  He quite fretted if, by some mischance, he lost one.  He did not shoot or hunt.  He rode his Arab at times, but walking was his favourite exercise.  He was subject to fits of nervous depression.  At times also he suffered from sleeplessness, when he would get up and walk to Norwich (25 miles), and return the next night recovered.  His fondness for the gypsies has been noticed.  At Oulton he used to allow them to encamp in his grounds, and he would visit them, with a friend or alone, talk to them in Romany, and sing Romany songs.  He was very fond of ghost stories and believed in the supernatural.  He was keenly sympathetic with any one who was in trouble or suffering.  He was no man of business and very guileless, and led a very harmless, quiet life at Oulton, spending his evenings at home with his wife and step-daughter, generally reading all the evening.  He was very hospitable in his own home, and detested meanness.  He was moderate in eating and drinking, took very little breakfast, but ate a very great quantity at dinner, and then had only a draught of cold water before going to bed.  He wrote much in praise of “strong ale,” and was very fond of good ale, of whose virtue he had a great idea.  Once I was speaking of a lady who was attached to a gentleman, and he asked, “Well, did he make her an offer?”  “No,” I said.  “Ah,” he exclaimed, “if she had given him some good ale he would.”  But although he talked so much about ale I never saw him take much.  He was very temperate, and would eat what was set before him, often not thinking of what he was doing, and he never refused what was offered him.  He took much pleasure in music, especially of a light and lively character.  My sister would sing to him, and I played.  One piece he seemed never to tire of hearing.  It was a polka, “The Redowa,” I think, and when I had finished he used to say, “Play that again, E—.”  He was very polite and gentlemanly in ladies’ society, and we all liked him.

It is refreshing to read this tribute, from which I have omitted nothing salient, because a very disagreeable Borrow has somehow grown up into a tradition.  I note in reading some of the reviews of Dr. Knapp’s Life that he is charged, or half-charged, with suppressing facts, “because they do not reflect credit upon the subject of his biography.”  Now, there were really no facts to suppress.  Borrow was at times a very irritable man, he was a very self-centred one.  His egotism might even be pronounced amazing by those who had never met an author.  But those of us who have, recognise that with very few exceptions they are all egotists, although some conceal it from the unobservant more deftly than others.  Many authors of power have died young and unrecognised; but recognition has usually come to those men of genius who have lived into middle age.  It did not come to Borrow.  He had therefore a right to be soured.  This sourness found expression in many ways.  Borrow, most sound of churchmen, actually quarrelled with his vicar over the tempers of their respective dogs.  Both the vicar, the Rev. Edwin Proctor Denniss, and his parishioner wrote one another acrid letters.  Here is Borrow’s parting shot:

Circumstances over which Mr. Borrow has at present no control will occasionally bring him and his family under the same roof with Mr. Denniss; that roof, however, is the roof of the House of God, and the prayers of the Church of England are wholesome from whatever mouth they may proceed.

Surely that is a kind of quarrel we have all had in our day, and we think ourselves none the less virtuous in consequence.  Then there was Borrow’s very natural ambition to be made a magistrate of Suffolk.  He tells Mr. John Murray in 1842 that he has caught a bad cold by getting up at night in pursuit of poachers and thieves.  “A terrible neighbourhood this,” he adds, “not a magistrate dare do his duty.”  And so in the next year he wrote again to the same correspondent:

Present my compliments to Mr. Gladstone, and tell him that the Bible in Spain will have no objection to becoming one of the “Great Unpaid.”

Mr. Gladstone, although he had admired The Bible in Spain, and indeed had even suggested the modification of one of its sentences, did nothing.  Lockhart, Lord Clarendon, and others who were applied to were equally powerless or indifferent.  Borrow never got his magistracy.  To-day no man of equal eminence in literature could possibly have failed of so slight an ambition.  Moreover, Borrow wanted to be a J.P., not from mere snobbery as many might, but for a definite, practical object.  I am afraid he would not have made a very good magistrate, and perhaps inquiry had made that clear to the authorities.  Lastly, there was Borrow’s quarrel with the railway which came through his estate.  He had thoughts of removing to Bury, where Dr. Hake lived, or to Troston Hall, once the home of the interesting Capell Lofft.  But he was not to leave Oulton.  In intervals of holidays, journeys, and of sojourn in Yarmouth it was to remain his home to the end.  In 1849 his mother joined him at Oulton.  She had resided for thirty-three years at the Willow Lane Cottage.  She was now seventy-seven years of age.  She lived on near her son as a tenant of his tenant at Oulton Hall until her death nine years later, dying in 1858 in her eighty-seventh year.  She lies buried in Oulton Churchyard, with a tomb thus inscribed:

Sacred to the memory of Ann Borrow, widow of Captain Thomas Borrow.  She died on the 16th of August 1858, aged eighty-six years and seven months.  She was a good wife and a good mother.

During these years at Oulton we have many glimpses of Borrow.  Dr. Jessopp, for example, has recorded in The Athenæum newspaper his own hero-worship for the author of Lavengro, whom he was never to meet.  This enthusiasm for Lavengro was shared by certain of his Norfolk friends of those days:

Among those friends were two who, I believe, are still alive, and who about the year 1846 set out, without telling me of their intention, on a pilgrimage to Oulton to see George Borrow in the flesh.  In those days the journey was not an inconsiderable one; and though my friends must have known that I would have given my ears to be of the party, I suppose they kept their project to themselves for reasons of their own.  Two, they say, are company and three are none; two men could ride in a gig for sixty miles without much difficulty, and an odd man often spoils sport.  At any rate, they left me out, and one day they came back full of malignant pride and joy and exultation, and they flourished their information before me with boastings and laughter at my ferocious jealousy; for they had seen, and talked with, and eaten and drunk with, and sat at the feet of the veritable George Borrow, and had grasped his mighty hand.  To me it was too provoking.  But what had they to tell?

They found him at Oulton, living, as they affirmed, in a house which belonged to Mrs. Borrow and which her first husband had left her.  The household consisted of himself, his wife, and his wife’s daughter; and among his other amusements he employed himself in training some young horses to follow him about like dogs and come at the call of his whistle.  As my two friends were talking with him Borrow sounded his whistle in a paddock near the house, which, if I remember rightly, was surrounded by a low wall.  Immediately two beautiful horses came bounding over the fence and trotted up to their master.  One put his nose into Borrow’s outstretched hand and the other kept snuffing at his pockets in expectation of the usual bribe for confidence and good behaviour.  Borrow could not but be flattered by the young Cambridge men paying him the frank homage they offered, and he treated them with the robust and cordial hospitality characteristic of the man.  One or two things they learnt which I do not feel at liberty to repeat.

Mr. Arthur W. Upcher of Sheringham Hall, Cromer, also provided in The Athenæum a quaint reminiscence of Borrow in which he recalled that Lavengro had called upon Miss Anna Gurney.  This lady had, assuredly with less guile, treated him much as Frances Cobbe would have done.  She had taken down an Arabic grammar, and put it into his hand, asking for explanation of some difficult point which he tried to decipher; but meanwhile she talked to him continuously.  “I could not,” said Borrow, “study the Arabic grammar and listen to her at the same time, so I threw down the book and ran out of the room.”  He soon after met Mr. Upcher, to whom he made an interesting revelation:

He told us there were three personages in the world whom he had always a desire to see; two of these had slipped through his fingers, so he was determined to see the third.  “Pray, Mr. Borrow, who were they?”  He held up three fingers of his left hand and pointed them off with the forefinger of the right: the first Daniel O’Connell, the second Lamplighter (the sire of Phosphorus, Lord Berners’s winner of the Derby), the third, Anna Gurney.  The first two were dead and he had not seen them; now he had come to see Anna Gurney, and this was the end of his visit.

At one moment of the correspondence we obtain an interesting glimpse of a great man of science.  Mr. Darwin sent the following inquiry through Dr. Hooker, afterwards Sir Joseph Hooker, and it reached Borrow through his friend Thomas Brightwell:

Is there any Dog in Spain closely like our English Pointer, in shape and size, and habits,—namely in pointing, backing, and not giving tongue.  Might I be permitted to quote Mr. Borrow’s answer to the query?  Has the improved English pointer been introduced into Spain?

C. Darwin.

Borrow took constant holidays during these Oulton days.  We have elsewhere noted his holidays in Eastern Europe, in the Isle of Man, in Wales, and in Cornwall.  Letters from other parts of England would be welcome, but I can only find two, and these are but scraps.  Both are addressed to his wife, each without date:

To Mrs. George Borrow

Oxford, Feb. 2nd.

Dear Carreta,—I reached this place yesterday and hope to be home to-night (Monday).  I walked the whole way by Kingston, Hampton, Sunbury (Miss Oriel’s place), Windsor, Wallingford, etc., a good part of the way was by the Thames.  There has been much wet weather.  Oxford is a wonderful place.

Kiss Hen., and God bless you!

George Borrow.

 

To Mrs. George Borrow

Tunbridge Wells, Tuesday evening.

Dear Carreta,—I have arrived here safe—it is a wonderful place, a small city of palaces amidst hills, rocks, and woods, and is full of fine people.  Please to carry up stairs and lock in the drawer the little paper sack of letters in the parlour; lock it up with the bank book and put this along with it—also be sure to keep the window of my room fastened and the door locked, and keep the key in your pocket.  God bless you and Hen.

George Borrow.

One of the very last letters of Borrow that I possess is to an unknown correspondent.  It is from a rough “draft” in his handwriting:

Oulton, Lowestoft, May 1875.

Sir,—Your letter of the eighth of March I only lately received, otherwise I should have answered it sooner.  In it you mention Chamberlayne’s work, containing versions of the Lord’s Prayer translated into a hundred languages, and ask whether I can explain why the one which purports to be a rendering into Waldensian is evidently made in some dialect of the Gaelic.  To such explanation as I can afford you are welcome, though perhaps you will not deem it very satisfactory.  I have been acquainted with Chamberlayne’s work for upwards of forty years.  I first saw it at St. Petersburg in 1834, and the translation in question very soon caught my attention.  I at first thought that it was an attempt at imposition, but I soon relinquished that idea.  I remembered that Helvetia was a great place for Gaelic.  I do not mean in the old time when the Gael possessed the greater part of Europe, but at a long subsequent period: Switzerland was converted to Christianity by Irish monks, the most active and efficient of whom was Gall.  These people founded schools in which together with Christianity the Irish or Gaelic language was taught.  In process of time, though the religion flourished, the Helveto Gaelic died away, but many pieces in that tongue survived, some of which might still probably be found in the recesses of St. Gall.  The noble abbey is named after the venerable apostle of Christianity in Helvetia; so I deemed it very possible that the version in question might be one of the surviving fruits of Irish missionary labour in Helvetia, not but that I had my doubts, and still have, principally from observing that the language though certainly not modern does not exhibit any decided marks of high antiquity.  It is much to be regretted that Chamberlayne should have given the version to the world under a title so calculated to perplex and mislead as that which it bears, and without even stating how or where he obtained it.  This, sir, is all I have to say on the very obscure subject about which you have done me the honour to consult me.—Yours truly,

George Borrow.

CHAPTER XXVIII
In Scotland and Ireland

Borrow has himself given us—in Lavengro—a picturesque record of his early experiences in Scotland.  It is passing strange that he published no account of his two visits to the North in maturer years.  Why did he not write Wild Scotland as a companion volume to Wild Wales?  He preserved in little leather pocket-books or leather-covered exercise-books copious notes of both tours.  Two of his notebooks came into the possession of the late Dr. Knapp, Borrow’s first biographer, and are thus described in his Bibliography:

Note Book of a Tour in Scotland, the Orkneys and Shetland in Oct. and Dec. 1858.  1 large vol. leather.

Note Book of Tours around Belfast and the Scottish Borders from Stranraer to Berwick-upon-Tweed in July and August 1866.  1 vol. leather.

Of these Dr. Knapp made use only to give the routes of Borrow’s journeys so far as he was able to interpret them.  It may be that he was doubtful as to whether his purchase of the manuscript carried with it the copyright of its contents, as it assuredly did not; it may be that he quailed before the minute and almost undecipherable handwriting.  But similar notebooks are in my possession, and there are, happily, in these days typists—you pay them by the hour, and it means an infinity of time and patience—who will copy the most minute and the most obscure documents.  There are some of the notebooks of the Scottish tour of 1858 before me, and what is of far more importance—Borrow’s letters to his wife while on this tour.  Borrow lost his mother in August, 1858, and this event was naturally a great blow to his heart.  A week or two later he suffered a cruel blow to his pride also, nothing less than the return of the manuscript of his much-prized translation from the Welsh of The Sleeping Bard—and this by his “prince of publishers,” John Murray.  “There is no money in it,” said the publisher, and he was doubtless right.  The two disasters were of different character, but both unhinged him.  He had already written Wild Wales, although it was not to be published for another four years.  He had caused to be advertised—in 1857—a book on Cornwall, but it was never written in any definitive form, and now our author had lost heart, and the Cornish book—Penquite and Pentyre—and the Scots book never saw the light.  In these autumn months of 1858 geniality and humour had parted from Borrow; this his diary makes clear.  He was ill.  His wife urged a tour in Scotland, and he prepared himself for a rough, simple journey, of a kind quite different from the one in Wales.  The north of Scotland in the winter was scarcely to be thought of for his wife and step-daughter Henrietta.  He tells us in one of these diaries that he walked “several hundred miles in the Highlands.”  His wife and daughter were with him in Wales, as every reader of Wild Wales will recall, but the Scots tour was meant to be a more formidable pilgrimage, and they went to Great Yarmouth instead.  The first half of the tour—that of September—is dealt with in letters to his wife, the latter half is reflected in his diary.  The letters show Borrow’s experiences in the earlier part of his journey, and from his diaries we learn that he was in Oban on 22nd October, Aberdeen on 5th November, Inverness on the 9th, and thence he went to Tain, Dornoch, Wick, John o’ Groat’s, and to the island towns, Stromness, Kirkwall, and Lerwick.  He was in Shetland on the 1st of December—altogether a bleak, cheerless journey, we may believe, even for so hardy a tramp as Borrow, and the tone of the following extract from one of his rough notebooks in my possession may perhaps be explained by the circumstance.  Borrow is on the way to Loch Laggan and visits a desolate churchyard, Coll Harrie, to see the tomb of John Macdonnel or Ian Lom:

I was on a Highland hill in an old Popish burying-ground.  I entered the ruined church, disturbed a rabbit crouching under an old tombstone—it ran into a hole, then came out running about like wild—quite frightened—made room for it to run out by the doorway, telling it I would not hurt it—went out again and examined the tombs. . . .  Would have examined much more but the wind and rain blew horribly, and I was afraid that my hat, if not my head, would be blown into the road over the hill.  Quitted the place of old Highland Popish devotion—descended the hill again with great difficulty—grass slippery and the ground here and there quaggy, resumed the road—village—went to the door of house looking down the valley—to ask its name—knock—people came out, a whole family, looking sullen and all savage.  The stout, tall young man with the grey savage eyes—civil questions—half-savage answers—village’s name Achaluarach—the neighbourhood—all Catholic—chiefly Macdonnels; said the English, my countrymen, had taken the whole country—“but not without paying for it,” I replied—said I was soaking wet with a kind of sneer, but never asked me in.  I said I cared not for wet.  A savage, brutal Papist and a hater of the English—the whole family with bad countenances—a tall woman in the background probably the mother of them all.  Bade him good-day, he made no answer and I went away.  Learnt that the river’s name was Spean.

He passed through Scotland in a disputative vein, which could not have made him a popular traveller.  He tells a Roman Catholic of the Macdonnel clan to read his Bible and “trust in Christ, not in the Virgin Mary and graven images.”  He went up to another man who accosted him with the remark that “It is a soft day,” and said, “You should not say a ‘soft’ day, but a wet day.”  Even the Spanish, for whom he had so much contempt and scorn when he returned from the Peninsula, are “in many things a wise people”—after his experiences of the Scots.  There is abundance of Borrow’s prejudice, intolerance, and charm in this fragment of a diary; but the extract I have given is of additional interest as showing how Borrow wrote all his books.  The notebooks that he wrote in Spain and Wales were made up of similar disjointed jottings.  Here is a note of more human character interspersed with Borrow’s diatribes upon the surliness of the Scots.  He is at Invergarry, on the banks of Loch Oich.  It is the 5th of October:

Dinner of real haggis; meet a conceited schoolmaster.  This night, or rather in the early morning, I saw in the dream of my sleep my dear departed mother—she appeared to be coming out of her little sleeping-room at Oulton Hall—overjoyed I gave a cry and fell down at her knee, but my agitation was so great that it burst the bonds of sleep, and I awoke.

But the letters to Mrs. Borrow are the essential documents here, and not the copious diaries which I hope to publish elsewhere.  The first letter to “Carreta” is from Edinburgh, where Borrow arrived on Sunday, 19th September, 1858:

To Mrs. George Borrow, 38 Camperdown Place,
Yarmouth, Norfolk

Edinburgh, Sunday (Sept. 19th, 1858).

Dear Carreta,—I just write a line to inform you that I arrived here yesterday quite safe.  We did not start from Yarmouth till past three o’clock on Thursday morning; we reached Newcastle about ten on Friday.  As I was walking in the street at Newcastle a sailor-like man came running up to me, and begged that I would let him speak to me.  He appeared almost wild with joy.  I asked him who he was, and he told me he was a Yarmouth north beach man, and that he knew me very well.  Before I could answer, another sailor-like, short, thick fellow came running up, who also seemed wild with joy; he was a comrade of the other.  I never saw two people so out of themselves with pleasure, they literally danced in the street; in fact, they were two of my old friends.  I asked them how they came down there, and they told me that they had been down fishing.  They begged a thousand pardons for speaking to me, but told me they could not help it.  I set off for Alnwick on Friday afternoon, stayed there all night, and saw the castle next morning.  It is a fine old place, but at present is undergoing repairs—a Scottish king was killed before its walls in the old time.  At about twelve I started for Edinburgh.  The place is wonderfully altered since I was here, and I don’t think for the better.  There is a Runic stone on the castle brae which I am going to copy.  It was not there in my time.  If you write direct to me at the Post Office, Inverness.  I am thinking of going to Glasgow to-morrow, from which place I shall start for Inverness by one of the packets which go thither by the North-West and the Caledonian Canal.  I hope that you and Hen. are well and comfortable.  Pray eat plenty of grapes and partridges.  We had upon the whole a pleasant passage from Yarmouth; we lived plainly but well, and I was not at all ill—the captain seemed a kind, honest creature.  Remember me kindly to Mrs. Turnour and Mrs. Clarke, and God bless you and Hen.

George Borrow.

In his unpublished diary Borrow records his journey from Glasgow through beautiful but over-described scenery to Inverness, where he stayed at the Caledonian Hotel:

To Mrs. George Borrow, 38 Camperdown Place,
Yarmouth

Inverness, Sunday (Sept. 26th).

Dear Carreta,—This is the third letter which I have written to you.  Whether you have received the other two, or will receive this, I am doubtful.  I have been several times to the post office, but we found no letter from you, though I expected to find one awaiting me when I arrived.  I wrote last on Friday.  I merely want to know once how you are, and if all is well I shall move onward.  It is of not much use staying here.  After I had written to you on Friday I crossed by the ferry over the Firth and walked to Beauly, and from thence to Beaufort or Castle Downie; at Beauly I saw the gate of the pit where old Fraser used to put the people whom he owed money to—it is in the old ruined cathedral, and at Beaufort saw the ruins of the house where he was born.  Lord Lovat lives in the house close by.  There is now a claimant to the title, a descendant of Old Fraser’s elder brother who committed a murder in the year 1690, and on that account fled to South Wales.  The present family are rather uneasy, and so are their friends, of whom they have a great number, for though they are flaming Papists they are very free of their money.  I have told several of their cousins that the claimant has not a chance as the present family have been so long in possession.  They almost blessed me for saying so.  There, however, can be very little doubt that the title and estate, more than a million acres, belong to the claimant by strict law.  Old Fraser’s brother was called Black John of the Tasser.  The man whom he killed was a piper who sang an insulting song to him at a wedding.  I have heard the words and have translated them; he was dressed very finely, and the piper sang:

“You’re dressed in Highland robes, O John,
   But ropes of straw would become ye better;
You’ve silver buckles your shoes upon
   But leather thongs for them were fitter.”

Whereupon John drew his dagger and ran it into the piper’s belly; the descendants of the piper are still living at Beauly.  I walked that day thirty-four miles between noon and ten o’clock at night.  My letter of credit is here.  This is a dear place, but not so bad as Edinburgh.  If you have written, don’t write any more till you hear from me again.  God bless you and Hen.

George Borrow.

“Swindled out of a shilling by rascally ferryman,” is Borrow’s note in his diary of the episode that he relates to his wife of crossing the Firth.  He does not tell her, but his diary tells us, that he changed his inn on the day he wrote this letter: the following jottings from the diary cover the period:

Sept. 29th.—Quit the “Caledonian” for “Union Sun”—poor accommodation—could scarcely get anything to eat—unpleasant day.  Walked by the river—at night saw the comet again from the bridge.

Sept. 30th.—Breakfast.  The stout gentleman from Caithness, Mr. John Miller, gave me his card—show him mine—his delight.

Oct. 1st.—Left Inverness for Fort Augustus by steamer—passengers—strange man—tall gentleman—half doctor—breakfast—dreadful hurricane of wind and rain—reach Fort Augustus—inn—apartments—Edinburgh ale—stroll over the bridge to a wretched village—wind and rain—return—fall asleep before fire—dinner—herrings, first-rate—black ale, Highland mutton—pudding and cream—stroll round the fort—wet grass—stormy-like—wind and rain—return—kitchen—kind, intelligent woman from Dornoch—no Gaelic—shows me a Gaelic book of spiritual songs by one Robertson—talks to me about Alexander Cumming, a fat blacksmith and great singer of Gaelic songs.

But to return to Borrow’s letters to his wife:

To Mrs. George Borrow, 38 Camperdown Terrace,
Gt. Yarmouth

Inverness, September 29th, 1858.

My dear Carreta,—I have got your letter, and glad enough I was to get it.  The day after to-morrow I shall depart from here for Fort Augustus at some distance up the lake.  After staying a few days there, I am thinking of going to the Isle of Mull, but I will write to you if possible from Fort Augustus.  I am rather sorry that I came to Scotland—I was never in such a place in my life for cheating and imposition, and the farther north you go the worse things seem to be, and yet I believe it is possible to live very cheap here, that is if you have a house of your own and a wife to go out and make bargains, for things are abundant enough, but if you move about you are at the mercy of innkeepers and suchlike people.  The other day I was swindled out of a shilling by a villain to whom I had given it for change.  I ought, perhaps, to have had him up before a magistrate provided I could have found one, but I was in a wild place and he had a clan about him, and if I had had him up I have no doubt I should have been out-sworn.  I, however, have met one fine, noble old fellow.  The other night I lost my way amongst horrible moors and wandered for miles and miles without seeing a soul.  At last I saw a light which came from the window of a rude hovel.  I tapped at the window and shouted, and at last an old man came out; he asked me what I wanted, and I told him I had lost my way.  He asked me where I came from and where I wanted to go, and on my telling him he said I had indeed lost my way, for I had got out of it at least four miles, and was going away from the place I wanted to get to.  He then said he would show me the way, and went with me several miles over most horrible places.  At last we came to a road where he said he thought he might leave me, and wished me good-night.  I gave him a shilling.  He was very grateful and said, after considering, that as I had behaved so handsomely to him he would not leave me yet, as he thought it possible I might yet lose my way.  He then went with me three miles farther, and I have no doubt that, but for him, I should have lost my way again, the roads were so tangled.  I never saw such an old fellow, or one whose conversation was so odd and entertaining.  This happened last Monday night, the night of the day in which I had been swindled of the shilling by the other; I could write a history about those two shillings.