Habitat ad oras Americæ meridionalis (Chile). Mus. Brit., nost., Brod., Geo. Sowerby, &c.
Soon after the return of the expedition, my friend Mr. Broderip, to whose inspection Lieutenant Graves had submitted his collection, observing symptoms of life in some of the shells of this species, took means for reviving the inhabitants from their dormant state, and succeeded. After they had protruded their bodies, they were placed upon some green leaves, which they fastened upon and ate greedily. These animals had been in this state for seventeen or eighteen months, and five months subsequently another was found alive in my collection, so that this last had been nearly two years dormant. The shells were all sent to Mr. Loddige's nursery, where they lived for eight months, when they unfortunately all died within a few days of each other. Soon after the shells were first deposited at Mr. Loddige's, one got away, and escaped detection for several months, until it was at last discovered in a state of hybernation; it was removed to the place where the others were kept, when it died also. The upper surface of the animal when in health is variegated with ruddy spots and streaks on an ash-coloured ground.
P. testâ subfusiformi, pallide flavâ, interdum castaneâ vel flavo et castaneo variâ; long. 11⁄16; lat. 5⁄16 paulo plus; poll.
Habitat ad oras Americæ meridionalis (Valparaiso). Mus. Brit., nost., Brod.
This shell varies in its colour almost as much as Bulinus citrinus.
A. testâ subalbidâ, transversim substriatâ, anfractu basali ventricosâ; long. 7⁄16 paulo plus; lat. 2⁄8; poll.
Habitat ad Lima. Mus. nost.
A. testâ subcylindraceâ, diaphanâ, transversim striatâ; long. 5⁄16; lat. 5⁄32; poll.
Habitat ad insulam Juan Fernandez, in montibus. Mus. Brit., nost., Brod.
A. testâ diaphanâ, subalbidâ, creberrimè transversim substriatâ, strigis longitudinalibus castaneis raris; anfractu basali subangulato; long. 11⁄16 paulo plus; lat. 6⁄16 paulo minus; poll.
Habitat in paludibus Brasiliæ (Santo Paulo). Mus. nost.
A. testâ subdiaphanâ, subconicâ, anfractu basali ventricoso; long. 6⁄8 paulo plus; lat. ⅜ paulo plus; poll.
Habitat ad Brasiliam (Rio de Janeiro). Mus. nost.
A. testâ cylindraceâ transversim striatâ subdiaphanâ; long. 5⁄16; lat. 2⁄16; poll.
Habitat ad Brasiliam (St. Catherine). Mus. Brit., nost., Brod.
This shell, which I found at the city of Nossa Sena. de Estero, I have dedicated to my friend, Dr. Sellow, whose researches in Natural History for several years past in the interior of Brazil, are well known to the scientific world.
S. testâ ovato-acutâ, diaphanâ, ventricosâ, transversim striatâ, obliquè subrugosâ; spirâ brevi; long. 9⁄16 paulo minus; lat. 6⁄16; poll.
Habitat ad insulam Juan Fernandez. Mus. Brit., nost., Brod.
S. testâ diaphanâ, ovato-rotundatâ, ventricosissimâ, transversim creberrimè striatâ; spirâ brevissimâ; aperturâ patulâ; long. 4⁄8 paulo plus; lat. ⅜ paulo plus; poll.
Habitat ad insulam Juan Fernandez.
Testâ ovato-productâ, sub-solidâ; aperturâ ovatâ, integrâ; columellâ bidentatâ, et basin versus uniplicatâ; dentibus magnis sub-remotis conniventibus, superiore maximo; operculum nullum.
M. testâ ovato-productâ, viridi-fuscâ; anfractibus sub-tumidis; spirâ brevi; aperturâ nigricante; dentibus plicâque albidis; long. 7⁄16; lat. 4⁄16; poll.
Habitat ad insulam Chilóe. Mus. Brit., nost., Brod., G. Sowerby.
This animal, which I have thought it necessary to assign to a new genus, appears to have for its nearest neighbours the genera Auricula and Pedipes. It was found on the wooden piles which support the mole in the Bay of San Carlos, in Chilóe, below the wash of the high water. The mole stands out into the sea, and there is no fresh water near it, save a very little rill, which discharges its tiny stream more than fifty yards off.
L. testâ turritâ, transversim substriatâ, anfractibus ventricosis; long. 11⁄16; paulo plus; lat. 5⁄16; poll.
Habitat ad fretum Magellanicum (Cape Gregory). Mus. Brit., nost., Brod.
This shell was found in the fresh-water ponds in the neighbourhood of Cape Gregory, which is on the continental side of the eastern end of the Strait of Magalhaens.
A. testâ globosâ, transversim striatâ, subalbidâ, longitudinaliter castaneo-lineatâ et fasciatâ, epidermide virescente; umbilico parvo; lat. 17⁄16; long. 16⁄16; poll.
Habitat in Sinu Panamæ; (island of Saboga, in a small hill-stream). Mus. Brit, nost., Brod.
From Mr. Cuming's collection. I have named this shell after Mr. Cuming, from whom I received it.
N. testâ globosâ, tenui, ventricosissimâ, corneâ, vel subalbidâ, subtilissimè striatâ; spirâ brevi; umbilico parvo; operculo valdè tenui; long. 15⁄16 paulo plus; lat. ⅞; poll.
Habitat ad fretum Magellanicum (Cape Gregory). Mus. Brit., nost., Brod.
N. testâ ovato-acutâ castaneâ, albo-lineatâ; aperturâ mediocri; columellâ valdè callosâ; umbilico mediocri; long. 13⁄16; lat. 21⁄32; poll.
Habitat ad Brasiliæ; oras, circa Santos. Mus. nost.
T. testâ nigricante, striatâ; aperturâ argenteâ; labri margine nigrâ, subcrenulatâ; operculo valdè lapidoso, albo; long. 2⅛; lat. 22⁄8 fere; poll.
Habitat ad Sinum Peñas. Mus. Brit., nost., Brod.
O. testâ granuloso-striatâ, viridi-fuscâ, nigro maculatâ; umbilico mediocri; labri margine sub-plicato; long. 10⁄16; lat. 13⁄16 paulo plus; poll.
Habitat ad Brasiliam (Rio de Janeiro). Mus. Brit., nost.
L. testâ longitudinaliter striatâ, sub-flavâ; spirâ brevi; anfractu basali ventricoso; columellæ purpurascentis margine et aperturâ sub-flavâ; operculo nigricante; long. ⅝ paulo plus; lat. 7⁄16 poll.
Habitat ad Brasiliam (Rio de Janeiro). Mus. Brit., nost.
In young shells there are a few obscure reddish brown streaks crossing the striæ.
Habitat? Mus. nost.
L. testâ ovato-conicâ, fuscâ, striis elevatis scabrâ; spirâ brevi; anfractu basali tumido; aperturâ nigricante, basin versus strigâ luteoalbâ ornatâ; labri margine crenulato albo-fulvido; operculo nigro; long. 4⁄8 paulo plus; lat. 7⁄16 ferè; poll.
Habitat in Mari Atlantico boreali (Port Praya). Mus. Brit., nost.
M. testâ albidâ, creberrimè striatâ, purpureo fasciatâ, aperturâ argenteâ; long. 4⁄16; lat. 5⁄16 ferè; poll.
Habitat in Mari Pacifico. Mus. nost.
Portions of the striated surface are elevated into belts, which are of a purple colour.
M. testâ sub-ovatâ, violaceâ, spirâ brevi; anfractibus tumidis; aperturâ iridescente; long. 7⁄16; lat. 8⁄16 fere; poll.
Habitat ad fretum Magellanicum. Mus. Brit., nost., Brod.
Of this shell the Indians make their necklaces; it is found adhering to the leaves of the Fucus giganteus, and is the principal food of the Steamer or Racehorse Duck (Micropterus Patachonicus, nob. in Proceedings of the Zoological Society, December 14, 1830, page 15).
M. testâ sub-complanatâ, cœruleâ, striatâ, albido-lineatâ, aperturâ iridescente; lat. 13⁄16 ferè; long. 15⁄16; poll.
Habitat ad fretum Magellanicum (Cape Gregory). Mus. Brit., nost., Brod.
T. testâ turritâ, anfractibus tricarinatis; carinis nodulosis; long. 1⅝; lat. 9⁄16 paulo minus; poll.
Habitat ad oras Americæ meridionalis (Valparaiso). Mus. Brit., nost., Brod.
The Carinæ are nodulous, or twisted like the strands of a rope; the twists of the upper carina are in the direction of a water-laid, or right-handed rope, and those of the two lower carinæ are in the opposite direction, or like what is termed a hawser-laid rope. Between these nodulous carinæ are elevated lines, and the base is very strongly striated. Found in deep water in the Bay of Valparaiso. Dead shells of this species are occasionally found thrown upon the beach, near the Almendral.
T. testâ elongato-turritâ; anfractibus striatis; striis duabus maximis subnodulosis; long. 111⁄16; lat. 7⁄16 fere; poll.
Habitat? Mus. Brit., nost.
The two large striæ, which are remarkable for the nodules, are not far from the middle of each whorl, and generally are nearer the upper suture: of these the lowest is the largest.
M. testâ elongato-ovatâ, subalbidâ, fasciis fuscis, epidermide cinereâ; spirâ brevi; anfractibus angulatis, nodulosis; aperturâ oblongâ ad basin angustâ, castaneâ, intus albâ; labro internè denticulato, dentibus obtusis albis; columellâ rectâ, lævi; canali brevi; long. 37⁄16; lat. 2; poll.
Habitat? Mus. nost., Geo. Sowerby.
This species approaches Murex vitulinus very nearly; the body-whorl is very much elongated, and the nodules which mark the angles of the whorl are formed of the more elevated parts of what may be termed coarse longitudinal plaits.
M. testâ ventricosâ, albâ, fasciis elevatis striatis; septemfariam varicosâ, varicibus roseis denticulatis; aperturâ rotundatâ, roseâ, intus albidâ; labri margine asperrimè denticulato; caudâ mediocri, sub-recurvâ; long. 313⁄16; lat. 27⁄16; poll.
Habitat? Mus. nost.
T. testâ ovato-fusiformi, subdepressâ, albidâ fusco fasciatâ, costatâ; costis granulosis, interstitiis striatis; aperturâ subrotundâ, albidâ; columellâ subrugosâ; labro internè obtusè denticulato; margine undulato; epidermide viridi-fuscâ, scabrâ; long. 33⁄16; lat. 16⁄8; poll.
Habitat ad Sinum Peñas et oram occidentalem Americæ meridionalis. Mus. Brit., nost., Brod.
The denticules of the outer lip are ranged in pairs, at regular and somewhat distant intervals.
T. testâ ovato-acutâ, cancellatâ; spirâ elongatâ; epidermide fuscâ, setosâ; aperturâ albâ granulosâ; labro interne obtusè denticulato; long.; lat.; poll.
Habitat ad oras Americæ meridionalis (Valparaiso). Mus. nost.
The denticules of the inner lip are more elevated than those of the last (T. ranelliformis), and are equidistant. It was fished up with the anchor in Valparaiso Bay.
M. testâ ventricosâ, spirâ mediocri, anfractibus bicarinatis; anfractu basali lineis elevatis admodum distantibus cincto; aperturâ patulâ; dente labiali brevi, lato, obtuso; canali producto, recto, integro; operculo corneo; long. 2¾; lat. 1⅝; poll.
Habitat ad oras Americæ meridionalis (Concepcion). Mus. Brit., nost., Brod.
Approaching Fusus in its elongated and entire canal, while its exterior lip has the labial tooth which distinguishes Monoceros. The columella is not straight, as in all the other species, but curved, so as to make an angle in some specimens at the commencement of the canal, and in all it becomes very broad at the point where it is opposite to the tooth. The shell is of a reddish colour, ventricose, and girt with elevated lines, about a quarter of an inch apart. The spire has only two of these lines on each whorl, and has a bicarinated appearance. The aperture is wide, the outer lip sinuous, its tooth short, broad, and obtuse, and the operculum horny. The shell is seldom found in a perfect state, the beak being generally broken off, and the surface is, in all the specimens that I have seen, covered with a calcareous encrustation, entirely concealing the colours.
B. testâ ovato-fusiformi, cinereâ; anfractibus tumidis, costellatis, costellis cancellatis; aperturâ castaneo-nigricante; labri margine crenulato. Muricem mentiens; long. 1; lat. 9⁄16; poll.
Habitat ad fretum Magellanicum. Mus. Brit., nost., Brod.
The eggs of this species were found, and are preserved in spirits.
B. testâ conico-fusiformi, fuscâ; anfractu basali ventricoso; spirâ mediocri; aperturâ fuscâ, lutescenti, patulâ; long. 115⁄16; lat. 1⅛; poll.
Habitat? Mus. Brit., nost., Brod.
B. testa ovatâ, subponderosâ, subalbidâ, fasciis duabus fuscis obscuris; spirâ brevi; anfractu basali subdepresso, suturam versus crasso; columellâ valdè callosâ; long. 19⁄16; lat. 1 paulo plus; poll.
Habitat ad flumen Plata (Gorriti). Mus. Brit., nost.
The eggs of this shell, contained in a transparent orbicular nidus, the size of a turtle's egg, were found thrown up on the sea-beach of the island. In the month of January they were observed in all stages of growth. A series was preserved in spirits, and presented to the College of Surgeons.
C. testâ fusiformi, luteo-rufescente, fasciis nigro-castaneis, maculis albis tessellatâ; long. 7⁄16; lat. 3⁄16; poll.
Habitat? Mus. Brit., nost., Brod.
M. testâ ovato-acutâ, ventricosâ, fulvâ, creberrimè costatâ; costis interstitiisque striatis, basi granulosâ; spirâ brevi, anfractibus suturam supereminentibus; columellâ quinque-plicatâ; long. ⅝; lat. 5⁄16 paulo plus; poll.
Habitat? Mus. nost.
The denticules of the outer lip are arranged in pairs, at regular, and somewhat distant, intervals.
A fragment of a turbinated shell, bearing marks more assignable to Voluta than to any other genus, was found on the sea-beach in the neighbourhood of Cape Fairweather, on the east coast of Patagonia, in latitude 51½° south. The remains appear to differ from Voluta Ancilla and V. Brasiliana.
| Sir; | 27th March 1829. |
It is my direction, that when finally parting company from me, you proceed to the execution of the following orders, in company with the Adelaide schooner, the commander of which, upon our meeting him, will receive instructions to put himself under your command.
You will, as soon as possible, make the best of your way to Port Famine, stopping at Pecket Harbour to communicate with the Indians, should they be there, for the purpose of securing a supply of guanaco meat for the ship's company.
At Port Famine you will immediately detach Lieutenant Skyring, with a boat and boat's crew, in the Adelaide, to co-operate with Lieutenant Graves in surveying the Magdalen Channel and its communication with the sea; after which you will direct him to rejoin you, by the Barbara Channel, at Port Gallant, whither you will proceed, after completing your water at Port Famine; on your way to which, if you should have an opportunity, the following bays, on the south side of the Strait, might be planned, viz. Lyell Bay, Cascade Bay, San Pedro Bay, and Freshwater Bay (or Cove). The coast also to the west of the Barbara Channel, behind the islands of Charles and Ulloa, should be examined; and of the northern arm of the Jerome Channel, called in the chart, Indian Sound, we know nothing.
If, after the return of the Adelaide, you should find the weather so favourable as to permit your extending your exploration of those parts of the Strait which are yet unknown to us, you will remain for that purpose; but, at all events, you are to leave the Strait by the middle of June, or the first of July at latest, and repair with the Adelaide to San Carlos, at the north end of Chilóe, where you will find or hear of me, by the 10th of August.
In performing the above orders you will act as you may consider best for their most effectual execution, keeping in mind that the most desirable part is the survey of the Magdalen Channel.
From our experience, last year, of the weather during the months of April and May, I am in hopes of your being able to work during those months, with success; but should you meet with bad weather, you will be most careful in not exposing your people unnecessarily to the severity of the climate.
Upon detaching the Adelaide you will appoint Lieutenant Skyring to the superintendence of the service upon which she is sent, giving Lieutenant Graves instructions to that effect accordingly.
| (Signed) | I have, &c. Phillip Parker King, Commander and Senior Officer. |
| Sir; | April 19, 1829. |
In obedience to the orders I have received from Commander Phillip Parker King, senior officer of the Expedition for the survey of a part of South America, it is my direction that you proceed immediately, in the Adelaide schooner, to survey as much of the Magdalen Channel and the Strait or Channel of Santa Barbara as you find practicable at this season of the year.
If, in the execution of this service, you should find the season too much advanced to proceed without much risk to the vessel, or exposing yourself and the men to much bad weather, you will give up the design, and hasten to Port Gallant.
Should the Beagle not be in Port Gallant at your return, and no letter left for you in a bottle, you will wait there one week, and then return to Port Famine. At all events, you will endeavour to rejoin the Beagle before the first week in June has ended.
| (Signed) | I have, &c. Robert Fitz-Roy, Commander. |
To Lieut. Wm. Geo. Skyring,
His Majesty's sloop Beagle.
| Sir; | Beagle, Port Famine, 19th April 1829. |
In obedience to the orders I have received from Captain King, it is my direction that you put yourself under the orders of Lieut. Skyring, and proceed with him as he may think best for the execution of the service upon which he is ordered, and in which you will give him every assistance that you can afford.
Mr. Kirke, with a boat and boat's crew, will be sent to assist you.
| (Signed) | I have, &c. Robert Fitz-Roy, Commander. |
To Lieut. Thos. Graves,
Commanding His Majesty's schooner Adelaide.
| Sir; | Beagle, Port Gallant, 19th June 1829. |
It is my direction that you put yourself under the orders of Lieutenant Skyring, and co-operate with him in the execution of the service on which he is about to be employed.
Mr. Kirke, with a boat and five men, will be sent to assist.
I have, &c.
(Signed) Robert Fitz-Roy.
To Lieut. Thos. Graves, Commander.
His Majesty's schooner Adelaide.
| Sir; | Beagle, Port Gallant, June 19th 1829. |
It is my direction that as soon as you consider the rates of the chronometer on board the Adelaide sufficiently settled, you proceed in her to search for, and, if practicable at this season of the year, survey such part of the passage which is supposed to lead from the vicinity of Cape Tamar to Concepcion Strait and the Gulf of Trinidad, as your time and provisions will allow.
Your chief object will be to open a passage from Cape Three Points to Cape Tamar, between the mass of islands which lie between those capes.
When to the northward of Cape Tamar, and before reaching as far north as Oracion Bay, or the latitude of 52° 6′, should you notice an opening to the eastward, with a current or stream of tide setting through it, and an appearance of its joining another body of water, of considerable extent, you will endeavour to ascertain whether it communicates with the Skyring Water, provided that, in so doing you do not turn from your chief object more than a few days.
In the execution of the above orders you will act as you may consider best for the service of his Majesty; and if, at any time before its completion, you find your provisions getting short, the climate too severe, or yourself, or those under your orders, in bad health, you will immediately make the best of your way to Chilóe.
You will endeavour to be at San Carlos, in the island of Chilóe, before the 20th of September, and will let nothing that can be avoided detain you beyond that time.
| (Signed) | I have, &c. Robert Fitz-Roy, Commander. |
To Lieutenant Wm. Geo. Skyring,
His Majesty's sloop Beagle.
By Phillip Parker King, Esq., Commander of His Majesty's surveying vessel Adventure, and Senior Officer of an Expedition for the survey of a part of South America.
As soon as you shall have completed the rates of your chronometers and be otherwise ready, it is my direction that you proceed to sea in His Majesty's sloop under your command, to survey the sea-coast of Tierra del Fuego, from Cape Pillar to the east entrance of the Strait of Magellan, in the progressive examination of which you will be guided by the state of the weather, and other circumstances, keeping in view that the most interesting part of the coast is that portion between Christmas Sound and the Strait Le Maire, particularly the openings of New Year Sound and Nassau Bay, and the openings to the eastward of the latter as far as New Island; as there is reason to believe that there is a considerable body of water to the eastward of the termination of Admiralty Sound, communicating with the sea by some one if not many openings in the neighbourhood of Nassau Bay, and with an outlet on the N.E. coast (St. Sebastian Channel); and as the existence of such a strait would be of the greatest importance to small vessels bound to the westward round Cape Horn, you will see it fitting not to spend so much time to the westward of Cape Noir as may in the least impede the determination of the question, or prevent it being completely explored. It is my intention to be at Port Famine by the 1st of April, and at Rio de Janeiro by the 1st June, calling in my way at Monte Video, or Gorriti, for chronometrical observations; and if can, conveniently, I shall also go to Port Desire for the same purpose. But as it is at present uncertain what orders I may find for me at Valparaiso, you are to act according to your own discretion, so that you arrive at Rio by the 20th of June to rejoin me.
Given under my hand, on board the Adventure, at St. Carlos de Chilóe, November 18th, 1829.
To Robert Fitz-Roy, Esq.,
Commander of H.M.S. Beagle.
By Phillip Parker King, Esq., Commander of His Majesty's surveying vessel Adventure, and Senior Officer of an Expedition for the survey of a part of South America.
As soon as the Adelaide Tender is ready, you will proceed to sea, in the execution of the following orders:—
As your principal object will be to trace the main-land from the peninsula of Tres Montes to the southward, by penetrating into all the openings that lead easterly, you will commence at the Channel Mouths, and explore them to their termination.
In the event of their affording a communication with the Gulf of Trinidad, and your having time, you will examine the channels that you have reported to exist in the neighbourhood of Neesham Bay, so as to complete the Fallos Channel, which separates Campana from the land within it.
Should the Channel Mouths not afford the expected termination, you will proceed through the Mesier or Fallos Channels, in which, and in the channels more to the southward, you will explore all openings leading into the interior, and, if possible, not lose sight of the main-land until you reach the Strait of Magellan; by doing which it is expected, from the results of your last survey, that you will pass through the Skyring and Otway Waters, and enter the Strait by the Jerome Channel. The above being the principal object of your operations, you will take every opportunity of examining all other interesting parts of the coast, in the vicinity of your anchorages, among which the following seem to be of most interest:—
The Guaianeco Islands, and the probable place of the Wager's wreck, which would seem to be to the southward of, and not far from the Dundee Rock of your former survey.
If time afforded, it would be interesting to lay down the shores of Concepcion Strait; also to examine the deep opening on the west side of St. Estevan Channel, in the latitude of 51° 8′.
Lord Nelson Strait is also of much interest, and any extension of our knowledge of the land that bounds the western side of Smyth Channel.
But in these you will be guided by your own discretion, keeping in mind the principal object of the present survey, that of tracing the shores of the main-land.
The Adventure will be at Port Famine by the 1st of April, if nothing occurs to prevent it; and at Rio de Janeiro by the 1st of June, where you will rejoin me; but you are at liberty to call at Monte Video, on your way, for any supplies which you may require.
7th Dec. 1829. San Carlos de Chilóe.
To Lieutenant W. G. Skyring,
commanding H.M. schooner Adelaide,
Tender to H.M.S. Adventure.
Some Observations relating to the Southern Extremity of South America, Tierra del Fuego, and the Strait of Magalhaens; made during the Survey of those Coasts in his Majesty's ships Adventure and Beagle, between the years 1826 and 1830. By Captain Phillip Parker King, F.R.S., Commander of the Expedition.
———
[The original paper, from which the following observations have been extracted, was read before the Geographical Society of London on the 25th of April and 9th of May 1831; and was printed in the Journal of that Society for the same year.
It is here reprinted, with a few omissions and very slight alterations, in order that this volume may contain all that the Author has yet published respecting South America; excepting particular Sailing Directions.]
———
Considering the vast extent of the sea-coast of the southern extremity of America, it is not a little surprising that it should have been so frequently passed by, during the last century, without having been more explored. Within the last twenty years, however, it has been very much resorted to by English and American vessels in the seal trade, and to the observing portion of their enterprising crews many of its intricacies are well known; but as the knowledge they have derived from their experience has only in one instance, that of Mr. Weddell's voyage, been published to the world, our charts cannot be said to have been much improved for the last fifty years.
The eastern coast of Patagonia, by which name the country between the River Plata and the Strait of Magalhaens[215] is known, was coasted, as well as the north-eastern side of Tierra del Fuego, by Malaspina; and the charts of his voyage not only vie with any contemporaneous production for accuracy and detail, but are even now quite sufficient for the general purposes of navigation.
The Strait of Magalhaens has been explored by several navigators; but, among the numerous plans of it extant, those of Sir John Narborough and Cordova are the most correct. The first is particularly noticed in the late Admiral Burney's very useful work, and the result of the last has been published in the Spanish language, and is entitled "Ultimo Viage al Estrecho de Magallanes." A second voyage was also made by Cordova to the Strait, the proceedings of which form an appendix to the above work. It is furnished with a good general chart of the coast, another of the Strait, and many plans of the anchorages within it. Byron, Wallis, Carteret, and Bougainville, had already made considerable additions to Narborough's plan, from which a chart had been compiled that answered all the purposes of general geographical information, and might even have been sufficient for navigation: for the latter purpose, however, Cordova's chart was much superior; but, being published in Spain only, and its existence little known in England, I found great difficulty in procuring a copy before I sailed, for my own use.
The southern coast of Tierra del Fuego, between Cape Good Success, the southern limit of Strait le Maire, and Cape Pillar at the western end of the Strait of Magalhaens, was very little known. Cook's voyage affords several useful notices of the coast between Cape Deseado and Christmas Sound, and the Dutch fleet under Hermite partially explored the neighbourhood of Cape Horn: a confused chart of this coast, however, was the best that could be put together; and although Mr. Weddell has more recently published an account of the harbours and anchorages near Cape Horn and New Year Sound, yet little available benefit was derived from it, because these different navigators having confined their examinations to small portions of the coast, it was difficult to connect their respective plans, even on so small a scale as that of the general chart.
The western coast of South America, which is very intricate, extending from Cape Victory (the north-west entrance of the Strait of Magalhaens) to the island of Chilóe, may be said to have been wholly unknown; for since the time of Sarmiento de Gamboa nothing in the least descriptive of it had been published, with the exception of the brief notices of two missionary voyages in piraguas, from Chilóe to the Guiateca and Guaianeco islands.
Every person conversant with South American geography, must be acquainted with the voyage of Sarmiento. From the determined perseverance shown by that excellent and skilful navigator, through difficulties of no ordinary nature, we are possessed of the details of a voyage down the western coast, and through the Strait of Magalhaens, that has never been surpassed. His journal has furnished us with the description of a coast more difficult and dangerous to explore than any which could readily be selected—for it was at that time perfectly unknown, and is exposed to a climate of perpetual storms and rain: yet the account is written with such minute care and correctness, that we have been enabled to detect upon our charts almost every place described in the Gulf of Trinidad, and the channels to the south of it, particularly their termination at his Ancon sin Salida.
It would be irrelevant to enter here into the history of Sarmiento's voyage, or indeed of any other connected with these coasts. Modern surveys are made so much more in detail than those of former years, that little use can be made of the charts and plans that have been hitherto formed; but the accounts of the voyages connected with them are replete with interesting and useful matter, and much amusement as well as information may be derived from their perusal, particularly Sir John Narborough's journal, and Byron's romantic and pathetic narrative of the loss of the Wager.
The Cordillera of the Andes, which is known to extend from the northern part of the continent almost to its southern extremity, decreases in elevation near the higher southern latitudes. In the neighbourhood of Quito, Chimborazo and Pinchincha rear their summits to the height of nearly twenty-two thousand feet above the level of the sea; near Santiago de Chile the highest land is supposed to be fourteen thousand feet; farther south, near Concepcion, it is lower; and near Chilóe there are few parts of the range exceeding seven thousand feet. Between Chilóe and the Strait of Magalhaens the average height may be taken at three thousand feet; though there are some mountains which may be between six and seven thousand feet high.
By a reference to the chart it will be seen that about the parallel of 40° the coast begins to assume, and retains to its furthest extremity, a very different appearance from that which it exhibits to the northward, where the sea, which is kept at a distance from the Cordillera by a belt of comparatively low land for continuous intervals of some hundred miles, washes a long unbroken shore, affording neither shelter for vessels nor landing for boats; but, to the southward of that parallel, its waters reach to the very base of the great chain of the Andes, and, flowing as it were into the deep ravines that wind through its ramifications, form numerous channels, sounds, and gulfs, and, in many instances, insulate large portions of land. In fact, the whole of this space is fronted by large islands and extensive archipelagoes, of which the most conspicuous are the great island of Chilóe, Wellington Island, the Archipelago of Madre de Dios, Hanover Island, and Queen Adelaide Archipelago. The last forms the western entrance of the Strait on its north side. The land of Tres Montes, however, is an exception: it is a peninsula, and is the only part of the continent within the above limits that is exposed to the ocean's swell. It forms the northern part of the Gulf of Peñas, and is joined to the main by the narrow isthmus of Ofqui, over which the Indians, in travelling along the coast, carry their canoes, to avoid the extreme danger of passing round the peninsula. It was here that Byron and his shipwrecked companions crossed over with their Indian guides: but it is a route that is not much frequented; for this part of the coast is very thinly inhabited, and the trouble of pulling to pieces and reconstructing the canoes,[216] an operation absolutely necessary to be performed, is so great, that I imagine it is only done on occasions of importance. In this way the piraguas which conveyed the missionary voyagers to the Guaianeco Islands were transported over the isthmus; the particulars of which are fully detailed in their journals.[217]
The river San Tadeo, although of small size, being navigable only for eleven miles, is the largest river of the coast south of the archipelago of Chilóe, and therefore merits a particular description. At seven miles from the mouth it is fed by two streams or torrents, the currents of which are so strong that a fast-pulling boat can hardly make way against it. One of these streams takes its rise in a mountainous range, over which perhaps the communicating road passes; and the other is the drain of an extensive glacier or plain of ice of fifteen miles in extent. The river falls into the Gulf of St. Estevan over a shallow bar, upon which there is scarcely two feet water, and at low tide is probably dry.
At the head of St. Estevan Gulf is St. Quintin Sound; both were examined and found to afford excellent anchorage, and they are both of easy access should a ship, passing up the coast, find herself upon a lee shore and not able to weather the land, as was the case with the ill-fated Wager.[218]
The Guaianeco islands form the southern head of the Gulf of Peñas; then follows Wellington Island, separated from the main by the Mesier Channel, which had not been previously explored, its mouth only being laid down in the charts, compiled from the information of Machado, a pilot who was sent in 1769 by the Viceroy of Peru to examine the coast from Chilóe to the Strait of Magalhaens.[219] This channel is also noticed in one of the two missionary voyages above mentioned; but the object of these expeditions being for the purpose of converting the Indians to Christianity,[220] and not for the extension of geographical knowledge, little information of that nature could be obtained from their journal: the entrance of the Mesier, however, is described by them; and on one occasion they were obliged to take refuge in it for fifteen days.[221] With this exception I cannot find that it had ever been entered before our visit.
The length of the channel is one hundred and sixty miles, and it joins the Concepcion Strait behind the Madre de Dios archipelago, at the Brazo Ancho of Sarmiento. Lieutenant Skyring, who superintended this particular part of the survey, called the land which it insulates, Wellington Island; the seaward coast of which is fronted by several islands. Fallos Channel, which separates the Campaña and Wellington Islands, was examined, from its northern entrance, for thirty-three miles, and was conjectured, after communicating with the sea at Dynely Sound, to extend to the southward, and fall into the Gulf of Trinidad by one of the deep sounds which were noticed on the north shore.
About thirty miles within the Mesier Channel, from the northern extremity, the west side appears to be formed by a succession of large islands, many of which are separated by wide channels leading to the south-west, and probably communicating with the Fallos Channel. On the eastern shore the openings were found to be either narrow inlets or abruptly terminating sounds.
On both sides of the channel the coast is hilly, but not very high, and in many places there is much low and generally thickly wooded land. This character distinguishes the Mesier from other channels in these regions.
The trees here are nearly of the same description as those which are found in all parts between Cape Tres Montes and the Strait of Magalhaens. Of these the most common are an evergreen beech (Fagus betuloides), a birch-like beech (Fagus antarctica), the Winter's bark (Winterana aromatica[222]), and a tree with all the appearance and habit of a cypress, of which the Indians make their spears. Among others there is one, the wood of which being extremely hard and weighty, answers better than the rest for fuel: the sealers call it 'the red wood,' from its colour. From the great quantity of timber which grows here it would be naturally supposed probably that spars for masts could be easily obtained, or at least wood useful for less important purposes; but although many trees were found that were sufficiently large at the base, they grew to no great height; and, in consequence of the moisture of the climate, and the crowded state of the forests preventing the admission of the sun's rays, the wood generally proved to be decayed in the heart; besides being very apt, even after a long seasoning, to warp and split when exposed to a dry air.
Ten miles beyond White-kelp Cove, which is fifty miles within the entrance, the character of the Mesier Channel changes entirely; the shore on either side being formed of mountainous and precipitous ridges rising abruptly from the water. After this, at Halt Bay, twenty-three miles beyond White-kelp Cove, the channel narrows for a considerable distance, and in three particular places is not more than four hundred yards wide. This part of the channel is called in the chart the English Narrow. It is long and intricate, with many islands strewed throughout; and preserves its tortuous and frequently narrow course to its junction with the Wide Channel, in which the breadth increases to two miles and a half; and then, running thirty-four miles with a direct and unimpeded course, falls into the Concepcion Strait as above stated.
At the point where the Mesier and the Wide Channels unite, a deep sound extends to the N. N. E. for forty-six miles. It was named Sir George Eyre Sound. An extensive glacier sloping into the sea from the summit of a range of high snowy mountains, that are visible from many parts of the Mesier Channel, terminates this sound; and near the head of it several large icebergs, containing no inconsiderable blocks of granite, were found aground.[223]
Of the archipelago of Madre de Dios we know very little. It has probably many deep openings on its seaward face, and is fronted by islands and rocks. Its character is rocky and mountainous, and by no means agreeable. The wide and safe channel of Concepcion Strait separates it from the main land, which in this part is much intersected by deep sounds, the principal of which, the Canal of San Andres, extends to the base of the snowy range of the Cordillera, and there Lieutenant Skyring describes it to be suddenly closed by immense glaciers.
Behind Hanover Island, which is separated from Madre de Dios by the Concepcion Strait, the main-land is very much intersected by sounds like the San Andres Channel, extending to the base of the Andes.
South of Hanover Island is Queen Adelaide Archipelago, through which are several channels that communicate with the Strait of Magalhaens; of which the principal, Smyth Channel, falls into the Strait at Cape Tamar.
In the winter of 1829, Captain Robert Fitz-Roy, then commanding the Beagle, in examining the Jerome Channel, which communicates with the Strait in that part called Crooked Reach, discovered 'Otway Water,' an inland sea fifty miles long, trending to the N.E., and separated from the eastern entrance of the Strait by a narrow isthmus; the actual width of which was not ascertained, for in the attempt the boats were nearly lost. The south-eastern shore is high and rocky, and generally precipitous, but the northern is formed by low undulating grassy plains, free from trees, and precisely like the country about the eastern entrance of the Strait. At the north-west corner of the water a passage was found leading in a north-west direction for twelve miles, when it opened into another extent of water, about thirty-four miles long and twenty wide. This he called the Skyring Water. Its southern and western sides are bounded by mountainous land, but the northern shore is low, apparently formed of undulating downs and grassy plains, and in some places watered by rivulets. At the western extremity of the water two openings were observed, separated by a remarkable castellated mountain which was called Dynevor Castle. Beyond the southernmost opening there was no land visible, not even a distant mountain, which induced Captain Fitz-Roy to suppose that it was a channel communicating with the western coast; but from what we now know, it is not probable that it can lead to anything of consequence. It is, perhaps, backed by low marshy land reaching to the hills at the bottom of Glacier Bay, which, from the distance being seventy miles, were not visible above the horizon. The northern opening probably passes Dynevor Castle, and, perhaps, nearly reaches the bottom of Obstruction Sound. The Skyring Water was not further explored; partly from want of a sufficient quantity of provisions to undertake it with any prospect of succeeding, and partly from a strong south-westerly gale, from which there was no shelter for the open boats in which this examination was performed. The remainder, therefore, of Captain Fitz-Roy's time was spent in completing what he had commenced; and, after an absence of thirty-two days, he rejoined his ship at Port Gallant.
At the western end of the passage, which unites the waters, the shore is well clothed on the north side with luxuriant grass and trefoil, with here and there a sprinkling of brushwood, but is entirely destitute of trees. The soil, although dry, is light, and tolerably good; but the ground is perforated everywhere by some burrowing animal, probably skunks, or cavias. The tracks of horses were noticed in many places, and the bones of guanacoes were scattered about. Water was not very plentiful, but several small brooks and springs in the sides of the hills were observed, sufficient for all useful purposes.
On the south side of the passage the land is low, but wooded: the banks are from five to forty feet high, sloping to the water, and covered with grass. In the entrance the tide ran five or six knots at the neaps, but inside with only half that rapidity. On the north side, at the distance of a mile and a-half, there is a ridge of hills, to the summit of which Captain Fitz-Roy made an excursion, which is described in the Narrative.
In consequence of the supposed communication of the Skyring Water with some part of the western coast, a careful examination was made of every opening trending into the interior behind the islands and archipelagoes that line the western coast; the result of which has proved that the hypothesis so naturally formed was not confirmed by fact. A reference to the chart will show how carefully the search was carried on, and with what want of success it was concluded. The deep opening discovered by Sarmiento, and named by him, 'Ancon sin salida,' was found, upon examination, to extend so far into the interior, and in the direction of the Skyring Water, that the most strict investigation of the numerous sounds and canals was made, in the perfect conviction of finding the desired communication. But after a patient, laborious, and minute examination, particularly of those openings which led to the southward, among which Obstruction Sound held the most flattering appearance, Lieutenant Skyring, who performed this service, was obliged to give up the search and return. At one part, near the south-eastern end of the sound, he entered an opening, which at first had an appearance that was favourable to the desired communication, but it terminated in low, woody land. There was, however, a hill near the shore, which he ascended with the hope of obtaining a view of the country; but the sides and summit of the hill were so thickly wooded as to obstruct his view, and with the exception of some distant high land in the south-east quarter, and a sheet of water about six miles off in the same bearing, nothing was discerned to repay him for the fatigue and trouble of the ascent. Whether the water is a lagoon, or a part of the Skyring Water, or whether it communicates with the opening trending round the north side of Dynevor Castle, yet remains to be ascertained.
Being foiled in this attempt, Lieutenant Skyring proceeded onward in a S.S.W. direction, and after a pull often miles came to the bottom of the sound, which was terminated by high, precipitous land encircling every part. Neither wigwams nor traces of Indians were seen, another proof, were one required, of the sound not communicating with the Skyring Water; for the Indians very rarely visit these deep inlets, but are always to be found in narrow straits or communicating channels, where, from the strength of the tide, seals and porpoises, which constitute the principal food of the Fuegian Indians, abound. Sarmiento's name, therefore, of 'Ancon sin salida,' which we had hoped to have expunged from the chart, must now remain, a lasting memorial of his enterprising character, and of a voyage deservedly one of the most celebrated, as well as most useful, of the age in which it was performed.
The termination of Obstruction Sound is one of the most remarkable features in the geography of this part of South America.
In this examination the southern extremity of the Cordillera was ascertained. The eastern shores of the interior channels were found to be low plains, with no hills or mountains visible in the distance; and such being characteristic also of the northern shores of the Otway and Skyring Waters, it is probable that all the country to the east of the sounds is a continued plain.
Recent traces of Indians were seen in some places; but at the time our party was there, they were either absent or had concealed themselves. I should not think that these interior sounds are much frequented by them; a family was, however, met in the passage between the Otway and the Skyring Water, clothed with guanaco skins, like the Patagonian tribes, but in manners and disposition resembling the wandering inhabitants of the Strait and Tierra del Fuego; and they had canoes, which the Patagonians do not use. They had probably come thus far for the purpose of communicating with the latter tribes, with whom they frequently have friendly intercourse. No guanacoes were seen either on the shores of the inland waters or of the sounds within the 'Ancon sin salida,' although the country, being open and covered with luxuriant grass, was peculiarly suited to their habits; but as several large herds of deer were observed feeding near the sea-shore of Obstruction Sound, and the neighbouring country, the presence of these latter animals may probably be the cause; for on the eastern coast, where the guanacoes are every where abundant, the deer do not make their appearance. Sea-otters were the only other animals that we met with; but they were only occasionally noticed, swimming about the kelp. The shores of the sounds were in many places crowded with the black-necked swan (Anas nigricollis, Linn.), and there were a few seen, but only one captured, whose plumage, excepting the tips of the wings, which were black, was of a dazzling white colour. I have described it in the first part of the Proceedings of the Zoological Society as a new species (Cygnus anatoïdes.)
The Strait of Magalhaens, being a transverse section of the continent, exhibits a view of its geological structure. The Strait may be divided into three portions; the western, the central, and the eastern. The western and central are of primitive character, rugged and very mountainous; but the eastern portion is of recent formation and low. The western tract is composed of a succession of stratified rocks, a difference at once distinguishable by the form and nature of the ranges, and the direction of the shores: the hills are irregularly heaped together; the sounds are intricate and tortuous in their course, and the shores are formed by deep sinuosities and prominently projecting headlands: the channels, also, are studded with innumerable islands and rocks extremely dangerous for navigation. In this portion the rock is, for the most part, granite and greenstone.
Near the centre of the Strait, the rock being clay-slate, the mountains are higher, and more precipitous and rugged in their outline; and consequently not easily to be ascended. They are in general three thousand feet, but some are found to be four thousand feet, in height; and one, Mount Sarmiento, is upwards of six thousand feet high, and is covered throughout the year with snow. The line of perpetual snow in the Strait seems to be about three thousand five hundred feet above the sea: the mountains, whose height does not exceed three thousand, are, during the summer, frequently free from any, excepting in holes, where a large quantity is accumulated by drifting, and protected from the sun. The Strait here is quite free from islands, and it is a remarkable fact, that where the greenstone formation terminates, there the islands cease to appear.
The slate formation continues as far as Freshwater Bay, where the stratified rocks leave the coast and extend in a north-west direction. The soil then becomes apparently a mixture of decomposed slate and clay; the slate gradually disappearing on approaching to Cape Negro, where the rock partakes of the character of the east coast. Here again we observe, along with the change of geological character, the re-appearance of islands, the soil of which is clayey, but with masses of granite, hornblende rock and clay slate protruding in many places through the superficial soil, which, although it yields a poor grass, is entirely destitute of trees.
In that portion of the Strait to the eastward of Cape Negro the hills are remarkable for the regularity and parallelism of their direction, and their general resemblance to each other. On the north shore, near Cape Gregory, a range of high land commences suddenly, with rather a precipitous ascent, and extends for forty miles to the north-east, where it terminates in detached rocky hills. The south-western end of the range is a ridge of flat-topped land covered with soil, but with here and there a protruding mass of primitive rock: one of these appeared to be of sienite or granite. The north-eastern end of this range is perhaps more bare of soil, and, therefore, exposes the rock, which shows itself in detached hills. Precisely similar in appearance and direction is a range on the south shore, about fifty miles in length, commencing at Cape Monmouth and terminating in detached hills in the vicinity of the south side of the First Narrow. The courses, also, of both the First and Second Narrow, which are just within the eastern entrance of the Strait, are nearly parallel with these hills; and the smaller ranges of eminences, Elizabeth Island and the cliffy land of Cape Negro, where the clay formation commences, all trend to the N.N.E., preserving a general resemblance of form and character to the two ranges above mentioned.
The irregularity of the topographic features of the western portion of the Strait, combined with its confused assemblage and immense number of islands and rocks;—the regularity of the strata—the coinciding parallelism of all the bays, channels, and sounds,—and the total absence of islands in the central portion or slate formation;—together with the remarkable similarity of the direction of the hills and coast line, and the stratification of the north-eastern tract, which is very different from that of the centre;—are very striking facts, and, geologically considered, are of great interest.
No less remarkable, however, and equally interesting, is the character of the vegetation; not so much in the variety of plants, as in their stunted growth to the westward, their luxuriance in the centre, and the total absence of trees to the eastward. For this modification the following reasons seem to me to account sufficiently. To the westward the decomposition of granite, and the other primitive rocks which are found there, forms but a poor, unproductive soil; so that, although the land is thickly covered with shrubs, they are all small and stunted: the torrents of water also that pour down the steep sides of the hills, wash away the partial accumulations of soil that are occasionally deposited; consequently, few trees are to be found, excepting in clefts and recesses of the rock, where decomposed vegetable matter collects and nourishes their growth; but even there they are low and stunted, for the most luxuriant seldom attain a larger diameter than nine or ten inches.
From the regularity of the direction of the strata in the slate districts the vallies are very extensive, and, being bounded on either side by precipitous mountains much intersected by deep ravines, receive large streams of water, which, uniting together in their course to the sea, form no inconsiderable rivers. During the winter months these rivers become swollen and overflow their banks, and deposit a quantity of alluvium, which, blending with the fallen leaves and other putrescent substances, produces a good superficial soil, in which trees grow to a large size, and the shrubs and smaller plants become particularly luxuriant and productive.
At Port Famine, and in its neighbourhood, the evergreen beech (Fagus betuloides) grows in the greatest abundance, and reaches a very large size. Trees of this species, of three feet in diameter, are abundant; of four feet, there are many; and there is one tree (perhaps the very same noticed by Commodore Byron[224]), which measures seven feet in diameter for seventeen feet above the roots, and then divides into three large branches, each of which is three feet through. This venerable tree seemed to be sound, but from our experience of several others that were cut down, might be expected to prove rotten in the centre. This tendency to decaying in the heart may be attributed to the coldness of the schistose sub-soil upon which the trees are rooted, as well as to the perpetual moisture of the climate above alluded to.
The slate formation ceases at Port St. Mary, but there is no decided change in the vegetation until we come to Cape Negro, where the clay commences; and from thence onwards there is not a tree to be found. The nature of the soil is not favourable to plants which take a deep root, and, therefore, only shrubs and grasses are found: the former are thinly scattered over the extensive plains which characterise this country; but the grasses are abundant, and although of a harsh and dry appearance, must be nourishing, for they form the chosen food of numerous and large herds of guanacoes.
Besides the evergreen beech above-mentioned, there are but few other trees in the Strait that can be considered as timber trees. Such an appellation only belongs to two other species of beech and the Winter's bark. The last, which is also an evergreen, is to be found mixed with the first, in all parts of the Strait; so that the country and hills, from the height of two thousand feet above the sea, to the very verge of the high-water mark, are covered with a perpetual verdure which is remarkably striking, particularly in those places where the glaciers descend into the sea; the sudden contrast in such cases presenting to the view a scene as agreeable as it seems to be anomalous. I have myself seen vegetation thriving most luxuriantly, and large woody-stemmed trees of Fuchsia and Veronica[225] (in England considered and treated as tender plants), in full flower, within a very short distance of the base of a mountain, covered for two-thirds down with snow, and with the temperature at 36°. The Fuchsia certainly was rarely found except in sheltered spots, but not so the Veronica; for the beaches of the bays on the west side of San Juan Island at Port San Antonio are lined with trees of the latter, growing even in the very wash of the sea. There is no part of the Strait more exposed to the wind than this, for it faces the reach to the west of Cape Froward, down which the wind constantly blows, and brings with it a succession of rain, sleet, or snow; and in the winter months, from April to August, the ground is covered with a layer of snow, from six inches to two or three feet in depth.