and other groceries, many of which like the above are bought for considerably less than half their selling price, in proportion: of iron and drugs I could not obtain the price at New Orleans; but of the profit on the iron the reader may judge by the price I paid to a blacksmith for eight new horse-shoes, steel toes, and eight removes; the bill for which was about ten dollars,—above two guineas! I remonstrated and appealed in vain, the bill was paid; yet I cannot think that such a price is charged to the inhabitants among themselves; but there is no justice and little law but one's own arm; and [95] a man must be fain to yield before a nest of —— who join in plucking a stranger; indeed, he may think himself well off if they are contented with a little plucking at his purse, for instances are not unfrequent of individuals among them being "rifled" for having rendered themselves obnoxious; which they do equally if they are too good (honest) or too bad (deep) for them; or not holding themselves sufficiently upon a level.

I did not learn the exact offence for which a deed of this nature was perpetrated with impunity at a recent period not many miles from this place, in the Prairie country, but the facts are as follows:—A party proposed to each other coolly to go and shoot neighbour ***** who had behaved ill to them at sundry times; it was agreed upon; they went to his field, found the old man at plough and with unerring aim laid him dead!—Mr. Flower himself related to me this atrocious affair, and I did not hear that any punishment was ever talked of. Such is the state of things in this western paradise! A beautiful garden indeed it is from the hands of nature, and with but a little industry a most desirable country to dwell in ... with a people who do not shoot each other: but for a man of orderly habits and civilized manners, to leave his every comfort, plunge into this wilderness, [96] and sit himself down among a set of half savages far more expert that he can be in every thing essential to such a life!—'tis a strange anomaly, and I think, "cannot come to good." The young, the enterprising, the man who seeks a fortune, may find a field for successful exertion—with great circumspection in undertakings, and great good luck in escaping bad notes and bad debts, large profits may accrue to industry; but let no one, who already may possess the comforts of life, seek fortune, freedom or bliss in this western speculation; for if he does, the chances are great that he will lose all.

Though the profits of trade here may be even more favourable than above stated, yet are there great risks, which ought to be taken into the contemplation of those who may be inclined, by these accounts, to the enterprise. Among the risks, one of the greatest arises from the not uncommon accident of boats sinking, as no care however great, will at all times prevent them from running upon hidden trunks of trees, when they almost to a certainty go down if heavy laden; and in such cases all the perishable part of the cargo is either lost or much damaged: a catastrophe not to be guarded against, as in Europe, by insurance; there not being at present any means of effecting it here. A more [97] safe speculation seems to be that of the builder, and as far as I could learn, equally profitable; the house in which I was, built of boards, and which was said to cost about two hundred and twenty-five pounds sterling, gains a rent of two hundred and fifty dollars clear of all deductions. There are I have little doubt, many other channels of profitable employment, and upon the whole it may be said, that this town offers a station for young men of prudence, spirit, and a little capital, where they may make a fortune; it is also a dry healthy delightful country. As to the morals and religion of the inhabitants, I cannot say that with respect to either they appear in a very favourable light, if one may judge from any outward observances of the latter, or conduct respecting the first, in affairs of business. Sunday is so little marked as a day of rest or religious duty that I believe no attention is paid to it, (except by the French catholics, who have a wooden chapel;) and a stranger, who should arrive on a Sunday, might well be led to conclude that it was a colony of Jews rather than of Christians, and that their sabbath had been kept the day before; tradesmen I saw carrying goods; farmers hauled their corn; and the water-mill went merrily round.

The price of labour is apparently high; a carpenter [98] or bricklayer receives two dollars and his board per day; but as competition increases I will not recommend the mechanic to rely upon getting such wages: and if he should, he must take notice that the high price he must pay for most articles of necessity, will bring his wages down nearer to a level with other places than he might at first suppose; to be sure, there is here less competition at present.

Having examined the town, and both ourselves and horses sufficiently rested, we made the necessary inquiries and preparations to proceed to the English Prairie in the Illinois State; from thence intending to visit the German Settlement called Harmony on the Wabash, and returning to winter at Vincennes. Receiving however, meanwhile, a pressing invitation to accompany a gentleman to his country house about twenty miles distant, it being represented as little deviating from our intended route, I accepted of it; the more inclined perhaps, because of his pleasing manners, and his being a native of the northern part of my own country. Having however a little apprehension as to the fitness of the roads we were going to pass over for wheels, I inquired of him whether they would permit a carriage to travel; and all my doubts were removed by his answer that "they were [99] as good as the town street," where we happened to be standing: we shall soon see how accurate his account turned out to be.

It was a beautiful day in the latter part of September, that we started on this expedition in my Dearborn; our friend on horseback leading the way. We drove along a good turf road across the fine plain of Vincennes, fully expecting to get on as smoothly and pleasantly as a gig party on a Sunday excursion along what are called the "green lanes," around our own metropolis;—we were not long suffered to enjoy these pleasing anticipations however, for our guide suddenly turned into the wood and the wheels came bump upon our old acquaintance a stump road.—While we are getting on slowly upon it, I will just give a slight description how such tracts are formed;—imagine a woodland in a state of nature: through this, guiding themselves by compass, people get on as they can, chopping a piece of bark from the trees in the line, which they call "blazing," as a direction to those who follow with tools to cut down the trees between those blazed, which they do at about a foot to a foot and a half from the ground, leaving the stumps and brushwood standing. In a short time this latter gets worn away, but the stumps remain a long while; and between these, horsemen, waggons, and other [100] carriages proceed, steering between, or bumping upon them, which is at times unavoidable, and week after week I have driven to my own astonishment how escaping, winding about among these stumps, progressing at most not more than three miles an hour. Were the "four in hand" thought I, to try their skill on these roads, many a wreck would soon strew the ground.

But to return to our adventure; for our companion calls, and presses me to urge forward the horses; advice needless to give, for alas! we could not adopt it. The small track became more blind; our guide appeared to be confused; and not a little to my dismay and vexation, instead of road as good as Vincennes town-street, we were at length entangled in woodland; brushing through breaking boughs, going in and out through bogs, and lifting the wheels over dead fallen trees as we could. In this situation, as difficult to retreat as advance, I knew not what to do and began to suspect some foul play; but recollecting the respectable character our companion bore at Vincennes, I dismissed the thought, and being both myself and servant armed I resolved to try to proceed; so calling in a peremptory tone to our friend in advance to keep in sight, for I fancied he seemed to be uneasy at his situation, and he at times [101] disappeared, I asked him, not if this was his excellent road—I was too vexed for that, but how much farther such difficulties would be found: he answered not far; that we were near the river, and that we would cross it at a nearer ferry than he had at first intended; adding, he would ride on and get the boat ready, he vanished, after pointing the way we were to follow.

I now thought he was gone, and had left us in the lurch; however we got on by degrees, and at length had the pleasure to see the river side, and our friend waiting for us with the crazy ferry boat, into which with some difficulty we got the carriage. Our difficulties were now to cease he said, and a good road the rest of the way was to reward our exertions; for better assurance of these good tidings I endeavoured to obtain some information from the boatmen as we crossed the Wabash; but they proved to be Canadian French, and we did not sufficiently understand their "patois" to gain any satisfactory account from them. We landed safely; and after rising the river bank, actually did find a tolerable good woodland road for some miles, until it approached without much hinderance a small settlement, dignified with the name of Palmyra; a place which to all appearance need not hope for the prosperity so [102] much as it may fear the lot, of its prototype. Here we found a log tavern, however, and we halted to consider what to do; for the day was closing and I remembered there would be no twilight. In this dilemma I again suffered myself to be guided by our companion, who represented, that at this log inn we should not find any accommodations, either for ourselves or horses beyond shelter, that his house was now but three short miles further upon a good road; and that he had provided every thing for our comfort as well as that of our cattle: yielding to these pressing arguments, the rather too as he seemed a little chagrined at my hesitation, I once more trotted on, which the horses could well do, for about half a mile beyond the settlement. But how shall I describe what followed! Our guide turned again into the wood calling out that it was his private road: and private indeed we found it, for we soon lost all track and light together.

There was now no retreating, so summoning up more resolution from despair, I urged and encouraged my good little horses, and they dragged the carriage at the constant risk of our necks, through brushwood, over fallen trees, down and up precipitous banks and deep gullies, which I could scarcely discern, and which if I could have seen should not have attempted; [103] until I became so enraged at the man's deception that had he given the least provocation I believe I should have shot him; however he luckily avoided this by keeping a little in advance, and mildly calling out now and then to direct the way saying we were very near; and indeed, long after day had departed, we halted at a gate. Here he advised us to get out and walk, as the way, up to the house for wheels was circuitous; out therefore we got, when I perceived approaching, carrying a light, a human figure in form, dress, and manner as wild and complete a ruffian as ever Shakspeare pourtrayed.

To this being, whose appearance, and the friendly shake of the hand given him by my conductor, did not tend to relieve my mind from suspicions of I knew not what, I was fain to give up my horses; he returned a surly answer in French to Mr. ***** who had said something I did not understand, and receiving the reins from me jumped into the carriage and drove away; but not alone, for I directed my man to go with him; a service he probably did not much relish, but which in my then state of mind I thought necessary. I now explored my way towards a light, and soon came up to a portico which had the appearance of being built in good style: here too I had the satisfaction to [104] meet the carriage, which I had no sooner come up to, than a voice which seemed of stentorian power hailed me from the portico with a torrent of words, amongst which what struck me most was, "You have got here but you will never get away again!" My host who had approached to press me to enter his house, seemed to put this off with a smile not quite easy; and I declined quitting my horses being determined to see them into the promised stable; but upon expressing this intention the ill omened voice again thundered, "Oh, there is no place for your horses but this,—they will be safe enough,—they cannot get out."—"But they are warm," said I; "have had a long pull ever since noon without bait, and will catch cold out of a stable." "Can't help it" was the answer; but just after he added, "to be sure there is a log place, but it has no roof!" My host now again returned to invite me in; and under his assurance that the horses should have every care taken of them, and knowing that my own man would do his best for them, I reluctantly gave up the point; mounted a flight of steps, crossed the Piazza, and entered a room not calculated to make amazement cease. It was spacious, lofty, well-proportioned, and finished in every part in the very best style of workmanship: a good wood fire [105] blazed upon a beautiful polished grate, the appertenances to which were equally handsome; a marble chimney piece, the tables, chairs, the supper table, and lights supported in handsome branches, all which is commonly seen in good houses, was here, surrounded by primæval wilderness; an accomplishment so wonderful that it seemed not to be within any power short of those of necromancy, and when my mind glanced back upon the way we had been led, I might fairly suspect the person who had done it to have some credit at the court of his Satanic Majesty. Such thoughts however were well dispelled by a neat supper, served in a manner corresponding with the appearance of the place; and by the aid of some excellent wine our spirits began to flow as the impressions of the day's adventures were, for a while, lost in social converse. Our host I found to be a man of the world; knowing perfectly well how, and practising that which he knew, to be agreeable; full of anecdote, which he gave well; and after keeping it up to a late hour we retired to rest in a handsome adjoining chamber.

Rising with the early sun, refreshed from the harass of the preceding day, I walked out anxious to explore the lodgings of my four-footed companions, not much expecting to find that "every [106] care" had been taken of them; indeed after a considerable search I at length discovered the place of their confinement, in an inclosure of logs without the slightest roof; of course they looked piteously, for the nights had become rather keen and frosty. Perhaps it may be thought by some readers that too much has been said of the dumb servants; but let those who think so either take a journey, during which their lives shall constantly depend upon the steadiness of their horses or at least let these objectors reflect, that during such daily acquaintance a sort of mute friendly understanding takes place between the driver and his cattle;—they will then no longer wonder at his anxiety for their welfare. And here let us bring this strange adventure to a close; we passed two days very pleasantly, during which we met with the most attentive hospitality, and I am unwilling to search for other motive; though, perhaps, it might principally be to induce me to engage in aid of a scheme to build mills upon a favourable situation on the Wabash river: this I mention, in order to take the opportunity of cautioning emigrants against engaging in the schemes, generally delusive, of the old settler or the American. However plausible they may appear, let him be the more cautious; it may happen that [107] they answer—some do so; but nine individuals in ten of those who are drawn in are ruined notwithstanding; for they get wheedled out of their property by trick and chicanery, which the American laws too much favour.

Let those therefore who come into this country, and bring capital with a view to settle, take good care not to be in the least haste to lay it out: let them keep their money in their pockets and view a speculation on all sides; nay, turn it inside out before they venture a dollar in it: and above all, let the emigrant distrust his own judgment, and ever keep in mind that the American upon his own soil is in business and speculation an overmatch for Europeans. One material reason for which is, that he is not at all nice or scrupulous about the means, so he attains his end; which is money,—money,—for ever, money. It is therefore much safer for an emigrant to embark in business by himself than to trust his property in partnership; in the first case, he may at least know how he is going on; in the last, it is probable he never will until too late.

An instance of the result of delusive expectations, may be seen in the man who has been an inmate a long time past with my present host, and from whom the words of ill-omen proceeded on the night of our arrival. He was [108] born in a manufacturing district in England and brought up a builder and cabinet-maker: discontented, as truly too many have had reason to be, with the remunerations of his business he embarked, with his wife and a decent capital in money, for America. Set ashore upon its coast, he found not his sanguine expectations realized; therefore wandered into the western country, working at little gain for one person and another, until his capital was considerably lessened: when at length he met with this gentleman, who engaged him to build the house in which we have been so well entertained;—with him, he has placed the remainder of his money, to be repaid to him with interest whenever a large bill due for his exertions shall be settled:—Perhaps his troubles and disappointments in this life may be over before this happens, for a rapid decline is carrying him off, and we will hope that then heaven will send a protector to the widow and the fatherless.

[109] A VISIT TO THE ENGLISH SETTLEMENT IN THE ILLINOIS

On the third morning we made early preparations for departure; and accepting gladly the offer of the builder for a guide, we took leave of Marvel Hall and, not without considerable apprehensions of difficulties to come in getting away, started for the town of Albion, as the English settlement is called. According to expectation the way was not free from wood, bog, gully, and stump; but with the aid of day these obstacles were overcome without accident; and after having traversed several miles of woodland and prairie, covered with long grass and brushwood, and having lost our way once or twice, we at length crossed a narrow forest track, and rising an eminence entered upon the so-much talked-of Boulton House Prairie; just as the sun in full front of us was setting majestically, tinging with his golden rays what appeared to be a widely extended and beautiful park, belted in the distance with woodland over which the eye ranged afar. The ground was finely undulated, and here and there ornamented with interspersed [110] clumps of the White Oak and other timber, in such forms that our picturesque planters of highest repute might fairly own themselves outdone. The effect was indeed striking, and we halted to enjoy it until the last rays of the beautiful luminary told the necessity of hurrying on to the settlement, in search of quarters for the night; indulging by the way sanguine hopes of an English supper and comfort as a matter of course at an English settlement. The road was good, yet the length of way made it nearly dark when we drove up to the log tavern; before the door and dispersed, stood several groups of people, who seemed so earnest in discourse that they scarcely heeded us; others, many of whom were noisy from the effects of a visit to the whiskey store, crowded round to look at us; and amidst the general confusion as we carried the luggage in (having first obtained a bed-room,) I was not a little apprehensive of losing some of it. However, we got all safely stored, and taking the horses off led them into a straw-yard full of others, for there was no stable room to be had; and what was worse no water, not sufficient even to sprinkle over some Indian corn which we got for them. The landlord did all that lay in his power, but our own fare proved little better than that of our horses, which spoke volumes [111] on the state of the settlement; some very rancid butter, a little sour bread, and some slices of lean fried beef, which it was vain to expect the teeth could penetrate, washed down by bad coffee sweetened with wild honey, formed our repast. We asked for eggs,—milk,—sugar,—salt; the answer to all was "We have none." The cows had strayed away for some days in search of water, of which the people could not obtain sufficient for their own ordinary drink; there being none for cattle, or to wash themselves, or clothes. After making such a meal as we could, and having spread our own sheets I laid down armed at all points, that is with gloves and stockings on, and a long rough flannel dressing gown, and thus defended slept pretty well.

In the morning a request was sent to Mr. Birkbeck for some water, understanding that he had a plentifully supplied well;—the answer sent back was, that he made it a general rule to refuse every one: a similar application to Mr. Flower however met with a different fate, and the horses were not only well supplied, but a pitcher of good water was sent for our breakfast. If the first was not punished for his general refusal the latter was rewarded for his grant by finding on his grounds and not far from his house, two days after, a plentiful spring of clear [112] water, which immediately broke out on the first spit of earth's being removed; this real treasure I saw flowing; the discovery of it appeared miraculous in the midst of so general a drought.

We now sallied out to take a view of the settlement, which is marked out not on prairie, but on woodland, only just partially cleared here and there where a house is built; so that there is yet but little appearance of a town. A very neat roofed-in building for a market first attracts the eye; at one end, parted off with boards, and under the same roof is a very decent place of worship; which is at present of a size sufficient for the place.

While we were viewing this edifice a young Englishman introduced himself with a welcome to us, and hopes expressed that I should settle among them; he was, I found, the medical man of the place, and in himself certainly formed one inducement to stay, for he seemed to be a very pleasant communicative man, he possessed a very prettily finished picturesque cottage and seemed sanguine in his hopes of the success of the settlement. We visited a wheelwright next; one of the many who had been induced by Mr. Birkbeck to emigrate soon after he himself left England:—The man's story is shortly this: he and his brother sailed [113] for America; and were induced by Mr. B.'s "Notes" to leave the Eastern parts where good employment was offered to them, and to repair to the Prairies. On arriving, he found none of the cottages ready for the reception of emigrants which his reading had led him to expect, nor any comforts whatever: he was hired however by Mr. B., and got a log hut erected; but for six months the food left for his subsistence was only some reasty bacon and Indian corn, with water a considerable part of the time completely muddy; while Mr. B., himself at Princetown and elsewhere, did not, as he might have done, send him any relief. On account of these hardships the man left him, set up for himself, and now has, he told me, plenty of work, but he seemed doubtful of the pay. These are the facts as related to me by others, and corroborated by the man:—If true, without some strong qualifying circumstances, I leave Mr. B. to settle with his conscience the bringing people out thus far, by his misrepresentations, to hopeless banishment; for return they cannot, though they would be glad so to do.

Our tavern-keeper, who was a very respectable farmer, left a good farm near Baldock in Hertfordshire, guided by Mr. Birkbeck's book, to find health, wealth, and freedom at Boulton-house [114] Prairie: of the two first both himself and family were quickly getting rid, while they were absolutely working each day like horses without one comfort left.—"How came you," said I, "to leave so good a farm as you had in England?" His answer was, "Mr. Birkbeck's book."—"You would be glad now to return?" added I. "Sir," said he, "we must not think that way; we have buried our property in getting here, and must here remain!" Such facts as these are worth a thousand flattering theories on the other side; and another may be here added,—perhaps a salutary caution to Mr. B. if this should be the first intimation—that the angry feelings of the poor people who had been entrapped by the deceptious colouring of his writings, flashed out in true English threats of tossing him in a blanket! I abstain from comment upon this, my business being to state facts. I forbear too from respect for a man of good natural abilities; misled himself by a sanguine temper which has been the cause of his misleading others: I will be silent too upon the subject of private differences, conceiving that public acts alone are those in which the public are interested, and ought to be inquisitive.

Mr. Flower followed up his seasonable supply of water, with a call and invitation to his house, [115] which was gladly accepted; being much disgusted at the deplorable state of ill health, anxious looks, despair and discontent, depicted in so many faces around,—to relieve or even alleviate which we possessed no means.

The contrast to this at Mr. Flower's was violent and pleasing; there, we met with every polite and hospitable attention during our stay, and from thence alone we were grieved to depart. In the midst of these wilds the elegant repast and social converse were again, as if by magic, enjoyed; and in such agreeable dissipation of mind the purposes of the journey were perhaps too much lost sight of, and many inquiries neglected which are now causes of regret. We did not fail however to explore the retreat of Mr. Morris Birkbeck,—a pleasant drive across the Prairie brought us to the Flat, at one extremity of which Mr. B. has established himself. We found him busy superintending the building of his house; the site of which is within twenty yards of his erection of logs, a square building divided into two rooms, as I heard, for we did not see the interior of this sanctum sanctorum from whence have been issued relations of so many snug cottages, with adjoining piggeries, cow-steads, gardens, and orchards; where the limbs of the poor emigrant were to find repose and his [116] mind solace, not to mention the ranges of log rooms for the arch priest himself which were building two years ago;39* all—all have vanished "into thin air," except the humble primitive log building before mentioned. This serves the whole family, according to the cobbler's song,

"For parlour, for kitchen and hall;"

and furnishes a proof, though perhaps not sufficient for every one, (the world is so incredulous,) of Mr. Birkbeck's humility, for he certainly does not at present enjoy the otium cum dignitate whatever he may have in prospect.

Up to this log building with some meandering I drove; and seeing a little man, who by description received, appeared to be Major domo, I sent to tell him that an English traveller had called and begged to see his improvements; upon which he approached, and after salutation, turning towards and pointing to his primitive hut, observed that it was still his residence, to which so attached had he become that he should quit it with regret. He then drew my attention to his new house, which he said, was building according to a promise made to his daughters; and he invited us to inspect it. Alighting therefore, he led the way [117] over a sufficiently commodious dwelling, no part of which was yet finished but the library, placed at the gable end on the first floor and the approach to it up a high flight of stairs on the outside of the house: here we found the Misses B.; they were engaged in some ornamental needlework, and received us like sensible, agreeable girls. Upon the table lay a flute, an instrument upon which one of them plays; and every thing was well arrayed to give effect, as well as the sterling, good, and for a private library large assortment of books. A fine healthy boy, his son, came up and presented to us some bunches of wild grapes he had just gathered, the only refreshment I believe offered; and I took leave, after having in vain endeavoured to gain information as to his corn-crops, the success of clover, and other seeds.

This was strange, but not so particularly unaccountable as at the time I thought it; for, I afterwards learned he had not sown either one or the other, although he ventures to put forth this year in one of the American newspapers, what in charity we will suppose a day-dream—a pleasing mental deception, in the form of a letter in which he expresses himself thus; (I quote from memory having mislaid the journal,) "We have now about as many acres [118] of corn sown as there are settlers, that is seven hundred."

Now, from the best inquiries I could make, there was not then two hundred and fifty acres sown in the whole settlement, and on Mr. Birkbeck's ground not a rood! Therefore, it may be truly said, that the colony was still for its existence depending for bread upon the exertions of those who, from a distance of many miles, bought and brought corn and flour for the market. In corroboration, I will here insert an extract from a published journal by a Mr. Hulme,40 formerly a great bleacher near Manchester, and a friend of Mr. B., who had lately paid him a visit. Mr. H. writes, "The whole of his operations had been directed hitherto (and wisely in my opinion,) to building, fencing, and other important preparations. He had done nothing in the cultivating way but make a good garden, which supplies him with the only things that he cannot purchase, and purchase too with more economy than he could grow them."

This Mr. Hulme knew the comforts and cheapness of Philadelphia, and its market, too well to think of settling at Boulton-house Prairie; besides, he evidently sneers, as much as a friend can, at the choice of situation Mr. B. has made, because it appears not to possess any [119] of the capabilities for mills, &c.: he adds, "I was rather disappointed, or sorry at any rate, not to find near Mr. Birkbeck's any of the means for machinery, such as waterfalls, minerals, and mines; some of those however he may yet find."

Thus has Mr. B. chosen to build a house, plant a garden, and dwell in a situation where he cannot grow corn so cheap as he can purchase it, and have it conveyed at a considerable expence from the settlement of Harmony,41 distant above twenty miles; in a situation too, which if it have any recommendation at all, it must be for the purposes of agriculture, for others it has none that are yet discovered. This may be to the taste, and it may suit the purse of Mr. B., and no one could fairly find fault with him for pleasing himself; but, when he steps beyond this line, and publishes plausible representations to induce others to seek fortune and independence in such situations, he is then doing that which he has no right to do, and has much to answer for: he has led people into this wilderness where, for any thing he has done, they may in vain look around for the expected shelter; they will see only Mr. B's house and garden, and perhaps [120] two or three log huts which at present constitute the whole of the new town of Wansborough; in short, he seems only to have thought of himself and to have falsified his public promises. I believe it to be a fact that the colony could not have outlived the winter of 1818, but that the whole must have been dispersed or starved, had it not been for the exertions of Mr. Flower; who perceived in time the coming want, and at considerable trouble and expence obtained a sufficient and timely supply. Mr. Birkbeck, in his publication, inveighs strongly against land-jobbing; yet if I am correctly informed he has obtained and is now gaining great profits by it,—he has entered as many as thirty thousand acres, which he now disposes of in lots as high, where he can, as four dollars per acre; it seems indeed to be his only business, to carry on which with better success he has given to others, it is said, an interest in the concern to find out and bring in purchasers of more money than judgment. One of these jackals, reported to be so employed, I met with on the road.

Having said thus much of an individual who has become noted for promissory books, and who therefore deserves to be noted for non-performance, let us turn to the contemplation of that which has been accomplished by those who did [121] not promise any thing, but who have done much. Mr. Flower, ably assisted by his father and in conjunction with a few others, has formed the settlement of New Albion, (an auspicious name;) and notwithstanding the miserably unprovided state in which I found it, much had certainly been done, and more was rapidly doing towards rendering the place habitable. Among other well-judged resolutions, they had determined, that in future all the houses should be substantially built of bricks, for the manufacture of which they have, as I understood, plenty of good clay in the neighbourhood.

A neat covered market, and place of worship, as before observed, had been finished and opened to the public; to which I have to add that a roomy boarding house and tavern were half up; a store (shop) pretty well supplied was opened; a wheelwright has been already mentioned: besides this trade many other artisans had come in, and the chief want was a sufficiency of the several materials of their business to work upon; but fair expectations may be entertained that, ere this account shall be published, the place will have become well supplied with most of the common comforts of life, not excepting the essential of water.

It clearly appears, that at present the [122] produce of the earth can be bought cheaper than it can be grown here; but let us look forward to the period when this shall not be the case, and the time must surely soon arrive or the colony cannot long exist:—What then will be the prospect of a market that the settler will have for the produce, which shall be more than the consumption of the neighbourhood? It is this,—at about twelve miles distance is a place called Bon Pas, consisting of a tavern and two or three houses, situated upon a creek communicating with the Wabash river; to this creek, (the mud in which not always allowing boats to come up it,) as the nearest point from the English settlement to water carriage, all the corn and other exportable produce must be hauled by land; to be conveyed in boats down to Shawnee town on the Ohio,42 (sixty miles,) and thence down that river and the Mississippi to New Orleans: there to be shipped either for Europe, or for the eastern ports of America. It must be obvious then, that the price which can possibly be allowed to the western grower, in order to meet the eastern farmer on equal terms in his own market, must ever make the business of the first a comparatively bad one: and as it is thus in the American markets so will it be in Europe; the freight from the eastern ports being so much less, as [123] the distance is less, and navigation safer;—but against this manifest disadvantage may be set the supposed greater fertility of the western country, and the less price of the land per acre: but it will never do.—These advantages, if granted, are more than counterbalanced by the higher price of all the imported articles of common consumption.

The best hope of the English settlement must be, that in the common course of events, the time may arrive when the population will be sufficient to make its own markets; and awaiting that period, they must be resigned to sink their immediate interests in the prospect of laying the foundation of future fortune for their posterity. Meanwhile, it may have attractions for many; whether on account of their principles religious or political, from general turn of mind, or misfortunes met with elsewhere; to such it may afford an asylum: but let none forget that the comforts of life are more than cent per cent dearer (and many are not to be obtained at all,) than they are in the eastern States; and that for this cause, more than the climate it is, that health is far more likely to be preserved in the old settled country, than here.

The strange heterogeneous mixture of characters which are collected hither by the magic [124] pen of Morris Birkbeck, is truly ludicrous. Among many others, a couple now attend to the store at Albion who lately lived in a dashing style in London not far from Bond-street; the lady brought over her white satin shoes and gay dresses, rich carpets, and every thing but what in such a place she would require; yet I understand that they have accommodated themselves to their new situations, hand out the plums, sugar, whiskey, &c., with tolerable grace, and at least "do not seem to mind it." At Bon Pas we sat down to a wild turkey with a party among whom was an exquisite, so complete, that had it been the age of genies, I should have thought it had been pounced upon while lounging along Rotten-row, whirled through the air, and for sport set down in this wilderness to astonish the natives: the whole has truly a most pantomimic effect, and Momus might keep his court at this anomalous scene, and laugh to his full content.

Let us now bid adieu to the English settlement, my sentiments respecting which are, from what has been said, so obvious as to render any thing more unnecessary. We are taking the road to the German settlement called Harmony, and will only stop the wheels to make mention of the very complete farm yards and surrounding [125] buildings, which Mr. Flower has erected; also of his flock, consisting of upwards of four hundred sheep, which has been collected in a very short space of time and part of which he brought from England; these feed during the day upon the prairies, and are brought into the yards at night for safety from the wolves and bears.43 A yoke of fine oxen too were daily plowing for him the prairie land, and preparing a considerable breadth of it for cultivation:—But though men of capital may thus in great measure bring many of their comforts with them, and attract others, yet after all that can be said of this place it is at present a bad concern; from which it was with no small pleasure that I knew myself in a situation to get away; and many,—many expressed themselves to be of the same opinion, though with rueful faces, for they were obliged to stay, having spent their all to get there.

HARMONY

From Bon Pas (the future Emporium of the commerce of New Albion!) we soon crossed the Wabash at a ferry of difficult approach; for the [126] river banks are steep and high, and the descent is therefore rather dangerous for a carriage; we got over safe however, and then keeping the river close on the right, arrived in the evening at the German settlement, and put up at the excellent good tavern, neatness itself, but furnished in the very plainest manner, and beyond a three cornered arm chair, there was not a piece of furniture which could excite the repose of indolence or the indulgence of luxury. After a plain repast, accompanied however with some good beer and a bottle of white wine, both the produce of the colony, (for the last we paid one dollar,) we sallied out to take a view of a place which could afford such good cheer. Before we proceed to examine it, however, I am disposed to talk a little of the great cementing principle of the society—a communion of goods.—While the rest of mankind are given up to a selfish principle; while each one is amassing the possessions of this transitory scene, grasping them truly as if he were never to part with them, these people, under the guidance of their spiritual pastor M. Rapp, are shewing to the world the practicability of what they esteem the real christian principle; they are living in the utmost harmony with a strict communion of property. All the products of the earth, which all contribute their share of labour [127] to produce, are deposited in the common stock, whence each one receives whatever may be required for his comforts. Indeed, what my host at the tavern told me seems perfectly true; "We have every thing we can want" says he, "for our comfort and something more."

Nothing short of a pure religious principle (certainly not worldly interest,) could keep such a community in harmony; that here is an example of its doing so is at first view highly gratifying; it gives promise that the time may arrive when mankind may generally adopt it. Should it stand the test, it must bring conviction to all, what some think now must be the universal belief; at least christians must be convinced that the institution of property, with all its attendant "hard words, jealousies and fears" is incompatible with a religion which proclaims "peace on earth, good-will towards men," and prescribes mutual love and benevolence as essential to happiness here and hereafter.

This colony, (though they admit into their communion any one, who professing their principles and submitting to their rules wishes to be admitted among them,) is composed chiefly of poor Germans; who have fled from a despotic government, to enjoy quietly in this remote scene their religion, and the fruits of their industry:—[128] In their leader they place implicit confidence, and obey him with promptitude; he directs the labours of the day as well as their religious duties; and in neither is there any perceptible distinction made between the members of his own family and his flock. The same plain dress is worn by all, and all equally go to the labours of the field. To shew the extent of their reliance on, and obedience to him, the following fact is sufficient: soon after the commencement of their settlement M. Rapp, foreseeing the serious difficulties which would arise from too quick an increase of their numbers, told them it was necessary that for the present they should not have any more children. He was obeyed for the necessary period; but the interdiction has been since removed and plenty of children were to be seen in proof of it. Mr. Birkbeck has misrepresented this temporary order as a fundamental law of the society, and takes occasion to condemn them for it; when in fact it was a very wise forecast, preventing the distress which would have certainly ensued from the want of sufficient provisions.

Let us now take a view of this interesting colony. The site is obviously well chosen on a good soil, rather elevated, and at a sufficient distance from the low grounds near the river for [129] the advantage of a healthy air: the streets are of spacious width crossing each other at right angles, and lined with Lombardy poplars: the houses, which at leisure are to be replaced by others of more durable materials, are at present log cottages of a pleasing picturesque plan, and very neatly thatched; to each is attached a garden, a yard, a shed, and out-house for the cow and other purposes, the whole having an air of great comfort. Near the inn in a square open space stands the church, which, though formed of wood and boarded, is a handsome large building. On one side this square is the house of the pastor, the materials of good brick. It is large, and finished in the best style of workmanship. Of the same material they have also built a spacious store which contains articles of grocery, hardware, and indeed every thing that the inhabitants of the surrounding country require, and with these it seemed to carry on great business: this store is guarded with close iron-barred windows, and its general appearance corresponding, I inquired what occasion they had for a prison? This caution is no compliment to the honesty of the settlers around. A large steam mill is at work constantly, where they grind corn, card wool, saw boards, &c.: they have also thrashing machines of great power and indeed [130] a vast variety of other machinery; they dye cloth pretty well: there are buildings ample for school instruction, and in short, (for, to enumerate every thing would require a long residence among them,) they seem to possess every comfort. The vines were loaded with beautiful ripe grapes both black and white; and they were fast covering the hills of sandy soil in the neighbourhood with new vineyards. It was the Indian-corn harvest, and the young women and children, standing in a large circle, were employed in stripping off the leaves and throwing the cobs into baskets, which the men carried into the barns on willing shoulders. We contemplated this scene with much pleasure and then proceeded to take a view of the country around the settlement; which we found cleared to great extent, and sown with wheat looking luxuriantly and promising abundance.

The whole here described, and probably much more might escape observation, has been effected in the short period of five years and a half!—They may fairly take for their motto vis unita fortior, for they have accomplished wonders by it; far more than money could have effected with mercenary workmen, and far better too, for here is no interest to deceive the employer; they work for themselves. But, though inclined, [131] I must not dilate upon this fascinating principle which seems to strike at the root of most if not all of the moral evils of society; heartily hoping that its practicability may stand the test, and prove its sterling character, I shall therefore take leave of the subject with a few more observations, which will end what I have to say respecting this quiet industrious people. They keep no accompts of the several branches of their industry;—an annual taking of stock is all they think necessary; which is done in order to know the extent of their resources, and that they may be able to calculate their sufficiency to the wants for the year.

There was, I must confess after all, a dull sameness pervading the place, which I am willing to attribute rather to the phlegmatic German character than to their institutions. There is too, a depression of spirit which hangs about every man, far removed from the country which gave him birth, from those early scenes of childhood upon which his eye first rested with delight, and from those friends "he ne'er shall see again." Expatriated communities, like plants removed from the seed bed, for awhile sicken; but if planted in a genial soil they in time take firm root, again spread abroad their leaves, and flourish.

[132] Music they have, for we heard a grand pianoforte well played; they may have other instruments and also other amusements though I saw none; and their language, which I did not understand, precluded conversation, for no one, except my host of the tavern, not even M. Rapp, spoke English or French. The women, to use the phrase of a polite man, are the least handsome I ever beheld: the Colony therefore may possibly not be much disturbed by female intrigues, and thus be free from one other great cause of embroilment among mankind. To conclude my observations, they seem according to their own ideas a happy people; and did they possess a little more liveliness, more polish, and talk English one might have lived among them, which is more than I felt inclined to do in any other society we met with.

October 3d. We were now considerably above four thousand miles from home. It was the original intention that we should winter at Vincennes, on which account various necessaries had been sent from Philadelphia as well as brought with us; but I had already nearly seen enough, and having been informed, also judging from what I had seen,

(Of hair-breadth 'scapes i' the imminent river banks
———Morasses vast and desarts idle,
Rough quarries, rocks, and hills whose heads touch heaven;)

[133] that the roads of Indiana were seldom passable for wheels in the spring of the year, and not until the beginning of summer, I began to think that a winter and following spring passed in the western country, might leave the choice of a winter passage home or the further delay of another year; which would be too long a detainer from old England: and we therefore entertained thoughts of getting back before winter to one of the eastern ports, whence, if necessary, we might embark at any time during the winter, or otherwise to stay till spring. Not to lose time and fair weather therefore, in getting back to Vincennes to make arrangements for the return, we quitted the interesting Colony of Harmony early in the morning; having to drive thirty miles to Princetown44 the nearest station. Throughout the whole of my journey, though sometimes at a loss, I was fortunate enough not once to lose the way; a circumstance partly owing to being very particular in noting directions whenever they could be obtained—a plan that cannot be too strongly recommended to travellers through difficult countries. Let them not be content with directions from one individual, but ask every one they may meet; I have often had cause to repent confidently passing a person, and within half a mile after have found myself in uncertainty: this [134] was the case on leaving Harmony after obtaining what we thought full directions; but people who know a country are hardly ever sufficiently circumstantial to a stranger.

In a few miles we passed in the midst of the forest a solitary meeting-house, and soon after met several respectable looking people on horseback in their Sunday clothes coming to it. We were this day probably beholden to our fire-arms for safety; and though many travellers do not carry them, I strongly recommend all those who have any property not to omit it. A ruffian-looking fellow had introduced himself to me at Harmony, under pretence of shewing a note which he had received, he said, above thirty miles westward, and which proving to be a forgery he must go back to exchange. He wanted much to be informed of my route, but this of course I avoided telling, and thought no more of him; but to-day, instead of going back as he had said, we suddenly saw him riding after us upon a wretched horse, and he soon passed with such a dogged look that I had no doubt on my mind of his intentions, which were the more confirmed by his stopping afterwards frequently and looking about and at us. So we got under arms; I placing the rifle between my legs as I drove, and the pistols at my side: he evidently wavered [135] in his resolution, apprehensive that more people might be near on their way to the meeting, and perhaps not liking our number. We soon came up with him, however, at a log-hut, where he was fortifying with whiskey; and as we marched past we took care he should see we were prepared: he looked hard, but before we were out of sight struck off in another direction and we saw him no more.

Slept at Princetown; where there was found nothing more important to note than a tolerable good inn, and some blackberry wine of my host's own manufacture, for a bottle of which he had the conscience to charge a dollar, and "by the light of the moon" next evening we got safe back to Vincennes, and found those of our party left there during this expedition all well. From this pleasant town we made short excursions in the neighbourhood, and a week passed in irresolution whether to winter or to attempt the return at this season; for various were the representations and advice upon the subject: among the inducements to stay there is plenty of shooting of all kinds, the place is healthy, and we had the offer of a furnished house.—If the reader has been called upon to act under circumstances where the pros and cons have been so equally balanced, that it seemed not possible to refer the affair to the [136] decision of the judgment,—perhaps he has tossed up. I did not, but I resolved to go: and having once determined, the necessary arrangements were soon made; the baggage waggon and its contents to a considerable value were intrusted to the honour and honesty of a Vincennes merchant,45 and with my dearborn, and luckily all the four horses, on the 11th October, I commenced my retreat. I intended to take the same route homeward as far as Zanesville, (Ohio,) and from thence by a northerly course to Lake Erie, proceed to the Falls of Niagara, then to Albany and down the north river to New York; but the lateness of the season afterwards induced me reluctantly to alter the plan, and to return through Maryland.

In retracing our steps we shall not have occasion for much observation, until we take new ground on entering the State of Maryland.

From Vincennes the first week brought us to Louisville; a distance of near one hundred and [137] fifty miles. I had been instructed, by the persons who cashed my bill at Vincennes, to consult with a broker of this town who was requested to exchange those notes which were not at par for others that were so, taking a per centage for the transaction—he did so; and the reader is informed, in order that he may have some idea of the state of the banks and of public credit, that twenty-five per cent or one quarter was the difference of value of notes between Louisville and Vincennes.46

The end of the second week brought us again to Maysville, or Limestone on the Ohio, which divides Kentucky from Ohio State. The country does not lose on the review; even in Indiana it seems to be cultivated to greater extent than at first sight it appeared to be; the weather is delightful, and the various tints with which the foliage glows is far beyond the reach of pen or pencil. This season is called here the Indian [138] summer, and indeed the agreeable temperature of the air, the beauty of the day, and the variety of forest scenery I could much wish to describe though vain would be the attempt. Let the reader imagine the finest autumnal day in England, and suppose an unvaried succession of such days, as far from oppressive heat as from cold; let him then cull from our woods every tint of autumn's foliage, heighten every colour in imagination, and add more; then perhaps he may have a faint idea of the Indian summer season.

At Lewis's tavern in Indiana we witnessed a fine appearance of the aurora borealis; beautiful columns of light in constant motion and of great breadth continually darted upward, extending and shortening by turns while others crossed these; the whole moved gradually towards the west. At this place we were overtaken by a lady and gentleman, their child and nurse, returning from Lexington from an excursion to the new settlement of Indostan on the White river;—they travelled in their own carriage, (a chariot) it may therefore be well supposed that the roads were tolerably good. Their arrival caused a good deal of consultation and contrivance for the night's accommodations; there was but one room for both [139] parties, which, by hanging up sheets and other substitutes for curtains, was at length divided into four;—beds were then spread, and all slept quietly without furnishing any scene in which either Scarron or Fielding would have delighted: 'tis true we set fire to the log chimney, for the night was cold, and we had piled the faggots a little too high, but this was luckily seen before retiring to rest, or it might have been attended with serious consequences to us. My host, a shrewd spirited little fellow, strutting about in the short cloak a l'Espagnol worn here, and with his black worsted remains of stockings full of holes, which did not in the least damp his self-conceit, told me next morning, on my remarking the scarcity of houses of entertainment for travellers, that indeed another good house besides his own was much wanted on the road.

Great is the facility of acquiring money here if a man has judgment; he first looks out for some spot where a tavern is wanted, he immediately cuts down the trees around and puts together a rude log hut, which he covers with shingles (wood tiles;) a board is then inscribed "tavern," or "house of entertainment." Inside you find it very sparingly furnished, but he has got some fowls and spirits, and if he minds, his fortune is made. Travellers are plentiful, and his charges [140] as high as if he could treat them with every comfort, instead of putting two people commonly, and sometimes three, into a bed; in a room, too, containing four, five and six beds! The horses are put into another inclosure of logs, the interstices of which near a foot wide, (in summer an advantage,) are not at all closed even during the severity of winter.

At Paoli town, Indiana, we arrived on the day of militia muster, and found there a considerable concourse of people, for it appeared to be a holiday. It would have been idle to look for the regular uniform, correctness of evolutions and discipline, where probably neither the power nor the wish to attain these existed; a few only wore a uniform of neat grey colour with sash and long feather; the rest in the usual dress, and each man armed with his rifle. The amusement or chief exercise of the day, beyond the roll call, seemed to be firing at marks, at which they have justly established a character for great dexterity. Yet the American has but little skill with his arms in hitting a moving object, whether running or flying; indeed he scarcely ever attempts it, and he must too have his accustomed weapon or it is a chance if he succeeds;—a man dexterous with his rifle was admiring the pistols I carried, and wished to [141] try them; he shot twice at fifteen paces without even hitting the tree on which the mark was placed: that the pistols may not be supposed faulty, I mention, though no practiser with the weapon, that I hit close to the mark each shot, and with both, for he would change thinking mine might be the best. The same person with his own rifle without a rest, (which aid by the way is frequently taken advantage of,) at sixty yards shot from a tree a piece of paper no larger than we could see. Towards evening the multitude dispersed, and again the silence of the desert prevailed.

At Louisville we first saw the effects of a violent epidemic disease which had attacked the horses, and many were dying of it. The disorder appeared first upon the tongue, without any previous symptoms of fever that I perceived; blebs or blisters rose, broke, and increasing in number the whole tongue shortly became completely skinned and much swelled; the malady extended itself gradually down the throat, and the animal died, more it would appear from inability to take in food than immediately owing to the disorder.—Almost every horse we met on the road had caught the infection; at Louisville and Frankfort, at the last in particular, I saw near forty altogether in one yard: various were the [142] modes of treatment; some bled them and gave physic upon the first appearance; diet, soft mashes with nitre honey and the insides of gourds: the animals seemed to suffer greatly from hunger. The local applications were a mixture of copperas, alum, and blue vitriol pulverized and rubbed upon the tongue twice or more each day, in order to destroy the activity of the disease, and a frequent washing between these applications, with honey and alum water. This was the mode of treatment I adopted,47 for three of my horses caught it, and they all recovered, though one was reduced so low that I was obliged to exchange him at Maysville. With the others we continued the journey without the delay of one day, and they were in better condition on re-entering Philadelphia than when they left it.

At Lexington (Kentucky) we stopped at the Indian Queen which is a good house. Another change of notes became here necessary; those of the Bank of the United States were not to be procured, and no others being received with any certainty on the road, I sold the notes changed at Louisville for dollars at a further discount of two and a half per cent, and even [143] for this bargain I was again beholden to the good offices of the same gentleman who had kindly cashed my draft when going westward. My dollars were put into a bag, and as I returned swinging them along to the tavern, the weight caused some reflections on the different effects on mankind of specie and paper as circulating mediums;—the first, by its weight obviously tends to make one think more of expenditure even in small sums; the latter, by the facility it affords of carrying in the pocket-book sums of any magnitude must have a directly reverse effect;—perhaps one of the greatest evils attendant upon the paper money system may be attributed to this cause, and the very inconvenience which I now experience of carrying an inconsiderable sum in specie might therefore, if general, be an important means of raising the value of money, and of establishing economy in public and private affairs.

25th. Quitted Mr. Chamber's hospitable house at Maysville; and crossing the river ascended the steep hill which immediately presents itself in the State of Ohio.—On reaching the top we received the first intimation of a change of weather—snow had fallen and did not disappear the whole day from the shade; gales of wind now blew, and rain had lately fallen in different [144] parts in sufficient quantity to render the roads wretchedly bad: our progress was now slow and frequently difficult;—we passed several laden waggons of emigrating parties either set fast in the clay and digging out, or broken down and waiting for the aid of some distant blacksmith. This was a sad change of scene, however we kept up a good spirit, and having a light though strong carriage, good cattle, and helping these with our own exertions up some of the steepest hills, we surmounted all difficulties, and arrived without accident the end of the fourth week at Washington, Pensilvania, distant from Vincennes about five hundred miles.

Travellers, whether through unformed tracks of distant countries or over the mighty mass of waters, must possess minds little susceptible of impression, if they do not, in such situations, feel themselves more peculiarly under the protecting hand of providence. To pass safely a length of way, where a false step might frequently bring destruction, is alone a subject of thankfulness; but to have seen themselves within a moment, a hair's breadth of destruction, and to be preserved, must bring the sentiment to their minds with tenfold force: one day while traversing Ohio State, a gust of wind blew off the top of a large dead tree, which fell with a [145] tremendous crash on the spot over which in another moment of time we should have been passing!

At West Union, a small town with a good court-house, we had intended to sleep; but on arriving found the whole place full of people and to obtain beds impossible; at which the owners of the tavern very civilly expressed their regret, and though in the midst of hurry and bustle thought to speak for beds to the owner of a good private house, three or four miles further who happened to be in the inn. While the horses were feeding however, we went into a room, the table of which was covered with a profusion of fowls, ham, veal, beef, and many other symptoms of plenty; to partake of which the hostess very hospitably pressed us, and, that we might not be backward in accepting her proffered good cheer, assured us that it would be no loss to them, as every thing on the table would be swept away not to appear again; for especially upon these occasions nothing was ever brought on a second time.—"Have you no poor people to accept of the remains?" said I. She knew but of one family, she replied, to whom it could possibly be acceptable, and she did not think even these would receive it. An additional instance this, proving that food is abundant in [146] this country. Paid here for a new horse-shoe about eighteenpence sterling.

In passing through Ohio, the Derbyshire of the United States, we found in the sitting-rooms coal fires used almost generally in preference to wood; but from an extraordinary prejudice, which even exists at Philadelphia and other places, wood is still used for the purpose of cookery, and they will not believe that a dinner can be dressed properly at a coal fire.