Before beginning work read carefully Marking, Rule, Square, Saw, Plane, in Part V., and look up any other references.

First make the two boxes (see Box-making, page 219), and then the shelf above them. This can be fastened to the tops of the boxes by screws from underneath. The edge can be slightly rounded. The rail or guard at the back and ends of the shelf should be made independently. The back and ends can be joined as shown in Fig. 282, and the whole then fastened to the shelf by screws (see Boring and Screws) from underneath before fastening the shelf to the boxes, or it can be dowelled on, as shown in Fig. 282a (see Dowelling).

Partitions can be fitted in the boxes, forming pigeon-holes or compartments, if desired. These partitions can be nailed in place or, to be more workmanlike, can be fitted in grooves (see Grooving and Shelves).

See end of introduction to this chapter for directions about smoothing, putting together, and finishing. See also Scraper, Sandpaper, and Finishing, in Part V.

Hanging Book-Shelf.—A wall-shelf (Fig. 283) is useful and good practice for the amateur. It should not be made too deep (from front to back). Half-inch stock is heavy enough, if the shelf is not more than two feet long.

Before beginning work read carefully Marking, Rule, Square, Saw, Plane, in Part V., and look up any other references.

This shelf can be simply put together by nailing, setting the nails carefully (see Nailing and Nail-set). Carefully mark lines (using the square) by which to nail the pieces in their proper places. It is not worth while to use glue if the parts are put together in this way. A stronger and more workmanlike way is to groove the lower shelf into the sides and the sides into the upper shelf (see Grooving). In this case glue should be used and the work tightly clamped (see Gluing and Clamps). It will be much stronger to fit a back between the two shelves and the sides. This should properly be set in a rabbet cut around the space, as shown in Fig. 284 (see Rabbet).

See end of introduction to this chapter for directions about smoothing, putting together, and finishing. See also Scraper, Sandpaper, and Finishing, in Part V.

Wall-Cabinet.—An open cabinet or hanging case for books, magazines, or other small articles (Fig. 285) can be of any desired proportions, but should not be very large. Half-inch stock is sufficiently thick.

Before beginning work read carefully Marking, Rule, Square, Saw, Plane, in Part V., and look up any other references.

This case should have a back. Rabbets should be cut to receive the back, as in the case of the wall-shelf just shown (see Rabbet), the top and middle shelves being narrower than the lower shelf by the thickness of the back.

This case can simply be nailed together (see Nailing and Nail-set), but it will be better to groove the shelves into the sides (see Grooving).

See end of introduction to this chapter for directions about smoothing, putting together, and finishing. See also Scraper, Sandpaper, and Finishing, in Part V.

Hanging Bookcase.—A simple and useful case for the wall (Fig. 286) can be made on much the same principle as the small case just shown. It is well not to make such cases very large, and, unless quite small, stock from ¾" to ⁷/₈" in thickness will be suitable.

Before beginning work read carefully Marking, Rule, Square, Saw, Plane, in Part V., and look up any other references.

Instead of a back, strips can be screwed on vertically (Fig. 286), being sunk so as to be flush with the back of the case (Fig. 287).

See end of introduction to this chapter for directions about smoothing, putting together, and finishing. See also Scraper, Sandpaper, and Finishing, in Part V.

Wall-Shelves.—An easily made arrangement is suggested in Fig. 288. The design can easily be varied if you wish.

Before beginning work read carefully Marking, Rule, Square, Saw, Plane, in Part V., and look up any other references.

The construction is extremely simple, the shelves being merely screwed on from the back.

Get out the back and the shelves, and smooth them. Mark lines across the face of the former at the places for the shelves, bore holes through the back from the face for the screws (see Boring), and countersink the holes on the back (see Countersink). Screw the shelves in place (see Screws) to see that everything is right, then take apart and finish.

See end of introduction to this chapter for directions about smoothing, putting together, and finishing. See also Scraper, Sandpaper, and Finishing, in Part V.

Pipe-Rack.—A modification of the shelf arrangement just described makes a good rack for pipes and other articles for smoking (Fig. 289).

Before beginning work read carefully Marking, Rule, Square, Saw, Plane, in Part V., and look up any other references.

This differs from the article just described only in the shape of the shelves, which have openings in the edge for holding pipes. These openings can be made either with a fine saw or by boring holes and cutting in to them from the edge (Fig. 290).

See end of introduction to this chapter for directions about smoothing, putting together, and finishing. See also Scraper, Sandpaper, and Finishing, in Part V.

Wall-Shelves.—A quite simple form is shown in Fig. 291, having a small box with lid. A combination of this form with the design for a pipe-rack can easily be made if desired.

Before beginning work read carefully Marking, Rule, Square, Saw, Plane, in Part V., and look up any other references.

The construction is plain from the cases already described. The hinges should be sunk in the edge of the lid (see Hinges).

See end of introduction to this chapter for directions about smoothing, putting together, and finishing. See also Scraper, Sandpaper, and Finishing, in Part V.

Wall-Cabinet.—The cabinet shown in Fig. 292 should be rather small, for if large it will look clumsy. It can be made of half-inch stock.

Before beginning work read carefully Marking, Rule, Square, Saw, Plane, in Part V., and look up any other references.

The construction is quite similar to the preceding cases.

If you have no board wide enough for the back, two can be joined (see Jointing and Gluing).

The cupboard is simply a box without front or back (see Box-making, page 219) screwed to the back from behind (see Boring and Screws). The shelves at the sides of the cupboard and the bracket underneath it can be screwed from the back and from the inside of the cabinet, as in the preceding cases.

The door (see Doors) can be fitted and hung (see Hinges) after the whole has been put together.

See end of introduction to this chapter for directions about smoothing, putting together, and finishing. See also Scraper, Sandpaper, and Finishing, in Part V.

Corner-Shelves or Cabinets.—A simple form of hanging corner-shelves is shown in Fig. 293. This can be of any size, of course, but such articles look clumsy if made very large. Half-inch stock is heavy enough unless the case is quite large, when ¾" or ⁷/₈" thickness can be used.

Before beginning work read carefully Marking, Rule, Square, Saw, Plane, in Part V., and look up any other references.

One of the sides can be made wider than the other by the thickness of the stock, so as to lap over and secure a tight and strong joint at the back. The top board (with rounding front) can simply be nailed down on the sides (see Nailing and Nail-set), or, to be more workmanlike, a rabbet (Fig. 294) can be cut around the edge of the top on the under side into which to fit the sides, which can be screwed in place (see Rabbet, Boring, Countersink, and Screws). This rabbet should not come quite to the front edge of the top.

The shelves can be screwed in place from the back (see Screws), carefully marking lines with the square, for boring the holes, before putting the case together, and countersinking the holes upon the back.

This case (being fastened by screws) can be taken apart for finishing.

See end of introduction to this chapter for directions about smoothing, putting together, and finishing. See also Scraper, Sandpaper, and Finishing, in Part V.

A standing cabinet like Fig. 295 can be made in the same manner as the hanging cabinet just shown, but can, of course, be larger. Stock from ¾" to ⁷/₈" in thickness can be used. The rail at the top can be made and put on as directed for the desk-rack shown in Figs. 281 and 282.

Medicine-Cabinet.—Any small cabinet can be used for medicines by simply arranging the shelves in any convenient manner. A simple way is to have a series of horizontal grooves on the inside of each side, into which the shelves can be slipped at any desired distance apart. A design for an easily constructed medicine-cabinet for the wall is shown in Figs. 296 and 297.

Before beginning work read carefully Marking, Rule, Square, Saw, Plane, in Part V., and look up any other references.

A good size for a small cabinet is to have the main box-part, the cabinet proper, about 15" wide, 20" high, and 7" deep. It can be made of ½" stock. The construction is like that of the other cases already shown. The joints should properly be grooved (see Grooving and Gluing), but the whole case can be nailed together, although the result will be inferior (see Nailing and Nail-set). The back should be set in a rabbet as in the cases already shown. The arrangement of the hinges is shown in the illustration (see Hinges).

The partitions can be of thin stock (¼" or ⁵/₁₆"). The doors can have thick cleats, shaped as shown in Fig. 297 (enlarged in Fig. 297a), with holes bored down from the top for homœopathic phials. Care must be taken not to bore the holes through (see Boring). Stop boring before the spur comes through and clean out the bottoms of the holes with a gouge.

A small drawer can be fitted to one of the small compartments, as in Fig. 297 (see Drawers). If the edges of the doors are made to lap slightly where they come together, rabbets being cut on opposite sides of the edges (Fig. 298), the joint will be tighter, but a little space must be allowed or the doors may bind. The rest of the details are like those of the cases already described.

See end of introduction to this chapter for directions about smoothing, putting together, and finishing. See also Scraper, Sandpaper, and Finishing, in Part. V.

Bookcases.—A plain case (Fig. 299) can be made of any desired size. If quite small ¾" stock can be used, but ordinarily ⁷/₈" thickness will be best. The method of construction is practically the same as in the cases already described.

Before beginning work read carefully Marking, Rule, Square, Saw, Plane, in Part V., and look up any other references.

The shelves can all be fastened in, if desired, but a good way is to groove the top and bottom shelves into the sides and make those between movable (see Shelves, in Part V.).

The back can be fitted by simply cutting a rabbet on the back edge of each side for the entire length (see Rabbet), and making the shelves of such a width that they will not project beyond the rabbet. A narrow piece can be screwed from the back lengthways, above the upper shelf, as shown in Fig. 300. The rest of the back can then be screwed in place (see Boring and Screws). The back, being too wide to be made of one board, can very well (for a plain case of this sort) be of matched boards or sheathing.[24] Do not force the back too tightly into place,—that is, crossways of the boards. Allow a little play for the expansion and contraction.

See end of introduction to this chapter for directions about smoothing, putting together, and finishing. See also Scraper, Sandpaper, and Finishing, in Part V.

A "knock-down" method of putting together with tenons and wooden pins (Fig. 301) is not very difficult, but requires care and accuracy. In the case of the bookcase just shown, the upper and lower shelves can be pinned through the sides, which will hold the case firmly, and the other shelves can be movable (see Shelves). A case fastened in this way can be readily taken apart. This method can be applied to other designs for bookcases and cabinets.

Before beginning work read carefully Marking, Rule, Square, Saw, Plane, in Part V., and look up any other references.

The general principle is that of the mortise and tenon (see Mortising). If you cut the mortises for the pins before cutting the tenons on the ends of the shelves you will avoid the liability of splitting the tenons. The pins should taper and the angles of the pins and tenons be very slightly bevelled, that is, the sharp edge taken off.

The ends of these shelves can be slightly "cut under" or bevelled inwards (see Fig. 302, which is exaggerated), on the same principle that the ends of floor boards and the like are sometimes slightly bevelled, to ensure a closely fitting joint.

See end of introduction to this chapter for directions about smoothing, putting together, and finishing. See also Scraper, Sandpaper, and Finishing, in Part V.

A good form for an open bookcase suitable for the beginner to make is shown in Fig. 303. This design is suitable for a low, or dwarf, bookcase of whatever length may be desired. If of quite small size it can be made of ⁷/₈" stock throughout, but in most cases a thin plank (perhaps 1¼" to 1½" thick) had best be used for the ends.

A curtain can be added if desired.

Before beginning work read carefully Marking, Rule, Square, Saw, Plane, in Part V., and look up any other references.

The curves of the ends can be sawed by hand (see Turning-saw and Keyhole and Compass Saw), or better by band-saw and jig-saw at a mill, and smoothed with spoke-shave and file (see Spokeshave and File). The shelves (at least the upper and lower ones) should be grooved into the sides and glued (see Grooving and Gluing), although, as in the other cases already described, nails can be used, but the result will be inferior (see Nailing and Nail-set).

The plainness of the upright edges of the ends can be relieved by a little beading (Fig. 305), which you can do yourself or have moulded at the mill (see Beading).

Little brackets, screwed under the lower shelf at each end, as shown in Fig. 306, add to the stiffness of the case. A back can be fitted into rabbets as described above, but in this case it had best not come above the top shelf, a rabbet being cut on the under edge of the latter as well as in the sides. The bottom shelf can simply be made narrower and without a rabbet.

See end of introduction to this chapter for directions about smoothing, putting together, and finishing. See also Scraper, Sandpaper, and Finishing, in Part V.

The bookcase shown in Fig. 304 can be of any desired size and proportions. It can be of ⁷/₈" stock, although the upright ends can well be of thin plank.

Before beginning work read carefully Marking, Rule, Square, Saw, Plane, in Part V., and look up any other references.

This case can simply be nailed together (see Nailing and Nail-set), but the more workmanlike way is to groove the sides into the top and the bottom shelf into the sides (see Grooving). The second shelf from the top can be grooved into the sides, and the upright partition forming the cupboard can also be grooved in place. This process involves careful laying out and accurate cutting. The other shelves can be removable. The base-board can be bevelled or curved on the top edge (or moulded by machine) and can be mitred at the corners. It can be fastened with fine nails (see Nailing and Nail-set). The front piece can be glued as well as the mitred joints. A moulding can be nailed around the top as shown, being mitred at the corners.[25]

The other details of construction do not differ from those of the cases just given, except in the matter of making and fitting the door, for which see Doors in Part V.

A common way of making the sides of such cases is to make the side itself of board thickness, and to face the front edge with a strip (which can be glued on) from 1¼" to 2" wide, according to the size of the case, in the way shown in Fig. 305 (see Gluing). This gives a wider edge to the side and the shelves can fit behind the facing strip.

Beading can be worked on this strip, as shown (see Beading).

See end of introduction to this chapter for directions about smoothing, putting together, and finishing. See also Scraper, Sandpaper, and Finishing, in Part V.

Desk and Bookcase.—Various combinations of book-shelves with a desk can be arranged. A useful form for a small one is shown in Fig. 306. The height is of course regulated by the necessary position of the desk-lid when dropped. The general principles of the construction are the same as those of the cases already shown.

Before beginning work read carefully Marking, Rule, Square, Saw, Plane, in Part V., and look up any other references.

The wing, or attachment at the side, can be grooved into the side of the main part.

The back should reach across from one part to the other, which will give stiffness to the whole.

The desk-lid, which should be set in perhaps ³/₈" from the front edge of the case, can be prevented from dropping too far by chains fastened inside to the lid and the sides of the case. Various other arrangements can be bought for holding a desk-lid in the proper place.

The inside of the lid must of course be smooth. If panelled as in Fig. 306 the panel must be thick enough to be flush with the frame on the inside (see Doors). There will be more or less of a crack around this panel, but this is unavoidable. Lids of this sort are sometimes made with a smooth surface (without frame or panelling), but this requires some form of cleating to prevent warping (see Cleats).

The small brackets under the lower shelf will help to stiffen the case.

A few shelves can easily be arranged in the desk compartment. If you wish a number of pigeon-holes and compartments, a good way for the amateur to fit these is to make an independent case of pigeon-holes and compartments, without front or back, of thin wood (perhaps ¼"), and of such outside dimensions that it will just slip into the desk-space. This open box-like arrangement can be nailed together with fine brads.

The best way to make it is by fitting all the divisions into grooves, but to do this by hand requires more work and care than can be expected of the ordinary amateur. The grooving can be done by machine. A convenient arrangement is to have rows of parallel grooves into which the division boards can at any time be slipped to form compartments of any desired size.

See end of introduction to this chapter for directions about smoothing, putting together, and finishing. See also Scraper, Sandpaper, and Finishing, in Part V.

Music-Case.—The construction of the form shown in Fig. 307 is like that of the examples already shown. The sides, top, and bottom should be of ¾" or ⁷/₈" stock, but the shelves can be thinner.

Before beginning work read carefully Marking, Rule, Square, Saw, Plane, in Part V., and look up any other references.

This case can be simply nailed together (see Nailing and Nail-set), but the more workmanlike way is to groove the bottom shelf into the sides and the sides into the top, as in the cases already shown (see Grooving).

A moulding at the top can be made as in the bookcase shown in Fig. 304.

For various ways of putting in the shelves, see Shelves, in Part V.

The back can be thinner (¼") and should be fitted in a rabbet cut around, as already shown in the illustrations.

See end of introduction to this chapter for directions about smoothing, putting together, and finishing. See also Scraper, Sandpaper, and Finishing, in Part V.

Plant-Stands.—The form shown in Fig. 308 is of quite simple construction and is useful to hold a large flower-pot. It should be made of ⁷/₈" stock. The top can be from 8" to 12" square.

Before beginning work read carefully Marking, Rule, Square, Saw, Plane, in Part V., and look up any other references.

Simply make a box (see Box-making, page 219), without top and bottom, with the grain of the four sides running up and down. Before putting together saw the curves at the bottom. As the grain of the four pieces all runs up and down, these sides can be glued together without nailing (see Gluing). Screw four cleats around the inside of the top (Fig. 309) with holes bored in them for screws with which to fasten on the top from underneath (see Boring and Screws). Round the top edge as shown (see Spokeshave and File), and smooth the surfaces. Then, having shaped the edge of the top as shown in Fig. 308, fasten it in place and the stand is ready to finish.

See end of introduction to this chapter for directions about smoothing, putting together, and finishing. See also Scraper, Sandpaper, and Finishing, in Part V.

The form shown in Fig. 310 is made upon a similar principle, and can be of a larger size than would be satisfactory for the first pattern.

Much care must be taken to so lay out and cut the slanting edges of the sides that the pieces will come together accurately. After the top has been fastened on, a little piece of moulding can be put around beneath the edge of the top as shown, provided you have the skill to do it neatly. The corners must be mitred, and the moulding fastened on with fine brads, which must be set (see Nailing and Nail-set).[26]

See end of introduction to this chapter for directions about smoothing, putting together, and finishing. See also Scraper, Sandpaper, and Finishing, in Part V.

Tables.—A plain table, which although not especially ornamental is serviceable for many purposes, is shown in Fig. 311. It can be made of any size and proportions and the details can easily be varied.

Before beginning work read carefully Marking, Rule, Square, Saw, Plane, in Part V., and look up any other references.

The construction is too simple to require special description. The legs and the cleats at the top should be of plank thickness, the rest of ⁷/₈" stock. The legs can be halved where they cross (see Halving), or for a rough job can be simply nailed (see Nailing). The cleats at the top of the legs should be nailed or screwed to the legs, and will act as cleats to the top, which is fastened to them. The boards forming the top can be simply laid with the edges touching, for a rough job; but where a good surface is required the joints should be glued (see Jointing and Gluing) and the surface smoothed afterwards.

Extra cleats can be put under the top if needed for stiffness, and additional lengthways stretchers can be added to connect the upper part of the legs.

The whole should be planed and sandpapered and can be shellaced or painted. The remaining details do not differ from those of the subjects already shown.

See end of introduction to this chapter for directions about smoothing, putting together, and finishing. See also Scraper, Sandpaper, and Finishing, in Part V.

A table of simple construction and neat appearance (Fig. 312) can be of any desired size and proportions.

Before beginning work read carefully Marking, Rule, Square, Saw, Plane, in Part V., and look up any other references.

The legs can be from 1½" to 2½" square, according to the size of the table. After being squared and cut to a length they should be tapered toward the bottom by planing down two opposite sides and then the other two. The tapering, however, should not extend to the tops of the legs, but to a point a little below the bottom of the rails, or cross-bars, which connect the legs. On the two inner sides of the legs mortises must be cut to receive tenons on the ends of the rails which connect the legs, as shown in Fig. 313 (see Mortising). These rails can be of ⁷/₈" stock, the curves on the lower edge being cut with the turning-saw or compass and keyhole saw, and finished with spoke-shave and chisel or file. The curves can be omitted, of course, if preferred.

Do not try to put this table all together permanently at one operation. First put together two legs and the connecting piece, then the other two legs and the connecting piece, and finally join these two sides by the remaining rails. Glue the joints (see Gluing) and the parts should be securely clamped (see Clamps) until dry. Corner-blocks can be put in at the angles (see Corner-blocks).

Holes must be bored in the rails by which to fasten the top. If the rails are not too deep, vertical holes can be bored, countersinking deeply if necessary. Deep countersinking can be done by first boring a hole large enough to admit the head of the screw to the depth required, when the hole can be continued with a smaller bit. If the depth of the rail is too great for this process, the hole can be made by a species of counterboring, making first a larger hole in the side of the rail (on the inside), an inch or so from the top, and boring down into this hole from the top. A slanting cut can be made from below with the gouge to allow the screw to be slipped into the hole (Fig. 314). Another way is to screw cleats on the inside of the rail with a vertical hole through which the top can be screwed on (Fig. 315).

The top, if too wide for one board, should be glued up before being dressed off (see Jointing and Gluing), and the edge shaped and smoothed. Then, laying the top face downward on the horses or bench, place the frame upside down upon the top. When in the exact position mark a line around the inside of the frame, continue the holes in the frame a little way into the top, using a bit a trifle smaller than the screws, and then screw the frame securely to the top (see Boring and Screws), measuring carefully to see that you use screws which will not protrude through the top of the table. Depend entirely on the screws to hold the top on. Do not fasten a table-top on with glue (see Laying out the work, in Chapter IV.). If the table does not stand even, see Scribing and Winding-sticks. The final scraping (see Scraper) of the top can well be left until the table is put together, when the whole, after being scraped, can be carefully sandpapered with fine sandpaper (see Sandpaper).

The remaining details do not differ from those of the articles already shown.

See end of introduction to this chapter for directions about smoothing, putting together, and finishing. See also Finishing, in Part V.

An excellent centre-table for the amateur to make (Fig. 316) is useful for many purposes. About three feet square on top is a convenient size.

Before beginning work read carefully Marking, Rule, Square, Saw, Plane, in Part V. and look up any other references.

Get out four legs, from 1½" to 2" in diameter, according to the size of the table. They can be tapered slightly, as in the preceding case. Groove one side of each leg to receive the end of the cross-partition shown in the cut (see Grooving). These partitions can be ½" to ¾" thick. One of them can extend across (diagonally) from post to post. The other can be in two parts, reaching to the centre; or the partitions can be in four parts, meeting in the centre. This framework of legs and cross-partitions can be bound together at the top by cleats screwed on top (Fig. 317), holes being made in the cleats by which they can in turn be screwed to the top of the table. The lower shelf, or shelves (being made in four parts), can be fastened up from underneath, cleats, also, being used if necessary. The shelves can be of ½" stock. The upper shelves can be fitted after the rest is put together and can rest upon cleats underneath, to which they can be fastened. The shape of the top is shown in Fig. 317a.

The remaining details do not differ from those in the preceding cases.

See end of introduction to this chapter for directions about smoothing, putting together, and finishing. See also Scraper, Sandpaper, and Finishing, in Part V.

Small Stand.—A simple arrangement shown in Fig. 318 involves more difficulties than many of the other articles shown, but is not beyond the skill of the careful amateur. A good size is about 13" or 14" across the top and 17" or 18" high. Such a stand is useful to hold a flower-pot.