Boil lightly for fifteen minutes, allow to cool, and then skim off the wax which floats on the surface. Apply the wax to the furniture, and by rubbing it an hour afterward with a woolen cloth a beautiful luster will be the result.

French Furniture Polish.

This is the best article that can be made for restoring the luster and color of furniture:

Dissolve the shellac in the alcohol and add the linseed oil and turpentine; then add the hydrochloric acid and butter of antimony, which has been previously mixed, and thoroughly mix all together. Apply with a tuft of cotton, and finish by rubbing down hard with Canton flannel or a woolen rag.

Maple Syrup and Sugar.

[ARTIFICIAL.]

It is an astonishing fact that nine-tenths of the so-called maple sugar and maple syrup sold as the genuine articles are nothing more than clever imitations. The method of making the best quality of these imitations—and which really defies detection of a majority of dealers and consumers—is very cheap and simple, a gallon of the syrup costing about fifty cents and the sugar simply the cost of ordinary, cheap sugar. We were told by a Mr. Baldwin of Kentucky, a son of the reputed discoverer of the secret for producing the maple flavoring, that various manufacturers of imitation maple sugar and syrup in the large cities had paid his father thousands of dollars in royalties for his discovery.

Procure a quantity of the rough outside bark of what is known as scaly-bark hickory tree. Take about 3 or 4 pounds of the bark and boil in one-half gallon of water until it is reduced to a quart, then strain and add 5 pounds of common brown or yellow sugar; heat again until thoroughly dissolved and it is ready for use. To make imitation maple syrup simply boil the syrup until it is reduced back to sugar again, and when it is made properly the flavor and appearance of the genuine article is obtained.

Artificial Honey.

Dissolve the sugar in the water by the aid of gentle heat; take off the scum, and the honey and the cream tartar previously dissolved in a little water; bring to the boiling point, stir well, then let it cool.

Artificial Lemonade Syrup.

Dissolve the citric acid in hot water, add the sugar, and lastly the lemon and almonds. Stir well, cover with a cloth, and leave until cold. Two table-spoonfuls to a tumbler of cold water will make an excellent drink as refreshing as the best lemonade.

Best Artificial Cider.

Ferment for fifteen days in a warm place, then add:

If acid should be in excess add honey or sugar; if too sweet add cider vinegar to suit the taste.

Genuine New Orleans Mead.

Boil for fifteen minutes in eight gallons of water and let stand till cold to settle down, then strain through a flannel rag, and add to it in the fountain:

Add enough water to complete ten gallons, and charge with gas.—Prof. E. S. Wayne, in Kilner’s Formulary.

Baking Powders.

Pure baking powders are very simple in composition, care being used in preparing them and procuring pure ingredients. According to the advertised statements of the various leading manufacturers we are forced to make our own if we desire a pure and wholesome article. As the essential ingredients of the best baking powder are baking soda and cream of tartar we need only be careful in buying of honest grocers or druggists who will guarantee their purity. It is not difficult to procure pure soda, but the cream of tartar is frequently adulterated, and care must be used in its purchase.

It is very important that the materials used must be finely powdered, perfectly dry, and thoroughly mixed. For household purposes a patent sifter is the best to use in mixing. Run the articles through a number of times and free from all lumps. The ingredients can be dried by placing them in an oven for a short time before mixing.

Baking Powder No. 1.

This is the best that can be made. One to two tea-spoonfuls to a quart of flour.

Baking Powder No. 2.

A cheaper powder, but superior to the majority of powders you will buy, is prepared as follows:

Use two tea-spoonfuls to a quart of flour. Do not be afraid of the tartaric acid, as it is harmless. It is best to keep your baking powder in a well-stopped jar or bottle. Flour, terra alba, alum, and chalk are the chief ingredients used in the adulteration of cream of tartar. To determine the admixture of flour rub a few grains of iodine with one ounce of the suspected cream of tartar; if so adulterated a blue tint to the mixture will be produced; or by dissolving a small quantity in water you can prove its presence by the stickiness. Chalk may be determined by its effervescing on the addition of diluted acids; alum by dissolving in hot water and allowing the solution to chrystallize; terra alba and other clays by their insolubility in a hot solution of caustic potassa.

Flavoring Extracts.

The profits to manufacturers and dealers on these household necessities are very large, and the prudent consumer will take advantage of the directions here given. Extracts of lemon and vanilla are most frequently used; nutmeg, mace, cinnamon, etc., are usually used dry by grating.

Best Lemon Extract.

Cut the peels of two lemons into fine pieces and add to the alcohol and oil of lemon. Let stand for a few days and filter through a felt bag or filtering paper.

Extract of Vanilla.

Extract of vanilla is prepared direct from the vanilla bean. Use care in the purchase of the beans, as there are several varieties. The Mexican vanilla beans have the finest flavor, and the longer the bean, as a rule, the better the extract. There are other excellent varieties of vanilla beans, but they have a somewhat ranker flavor than the Mexican. Unscrupulous jobbers and dealers have been known to soak the whole beans in spirits, practically stealing all their flavor, and then by drying them place them on the market. They can be detected by their light color and brittleness. Most of the vanilla extracts sold for flavoring purposes are adulterated with Tonka beans and other adulterants, some containing not a particle of vanilla.

The following will make a splendid article, and you know what you are getting without paying high prices for weak extracts put up in deceptive little panel bottles. Dishonest manufacturers never yield a point in their efforts to defraud. Not content with the liberty they take with the contents they employ the bottle-makers’ art to deceive us in the quantity of the precious stuff:

Slit the beans and cut them very fine, then mix them with sugar and bruise until moderately fine; then mix with spirits and water and put in a warm place; allow to stand for two weeks (longer the better) shaking every day, and when through filter. Manufacturers color with caramel or other coloring, but for home use this is unnecessary.

To Extract Essential Oils.

To extract essential oils from wood, bark, herbs, etc., put a quantity of the herb or other article into a bottle or jar and pour in a small quantity of ether. Keep in a cool place several hours, and then fill the bottle with cold water. The essential oil will rise to the surface, and may be easily separated.

How to Make Rubber Stamps.

The wording of the desired rubber stamp having been correctly set up in ordinary type, the same is locked up and placed upon a level support. Around it is put an iron frame, which will determine the shape and size of the matrix.

By means of a soft brush the type as well as all surrounding parts that are to be covered by the plaster of Paris are well oiled.

For the purpose of making the cast finely ground fresh plaster of Paris is needed; if of long standing, the same will lose its desirable properties. This plaster of Paris, of which a sufficient quantity should at one time be mixed to the consistency of pap, using clear water, is poured over the frame containing the type in a thin layer, so as to barely cover it. With a stout brush the mixture is driven into all spaces and interstices, until all details are thoroughly covered. After this the remaining pap of plaster of Paris is added until the frame is full to overflowing. The surface is smoothed down after the plaster has settled somewhat, and in a short while the matrix in the frame may be removed from the type.

After this it becomes necessary to bake the matrix in an oven for a period of from four to six hours. When thoroughly baked the matrix should be well brushed with a thin solution of shellac to impart a smooth surface, and at the same time greater strength.

The matrix at this stage represents a yellowish-white block, in which the lettering appears indented, but in proper place. The indentation corresponds to the height of the letter upon the piece of type or the marks upon a cut, while the remaining parts should be perfectly smooth and free from holes. This matrix, obtained by a coating from the type or cut, will serve as the mould for the final rubber stamp.

Pieces of caoutchouc are cut to the required size and laid upon the matrix. If pressure is now exerted the soft mass will adjust itself to fill all the spaces and reproduce the mould invertedly. Indentations become raised matter, and the whole will show as did primarily the type.

But as the caoutchouc has a tendency to return to its previous shape it becomes necessary to apply the process called vulcanizing. The object is to impart hardness to the rubber, and to prevent its losing the form into which it has been pressed.

To accomplish this the caoutchouc must be heated to a temperature of from 120 to 130 deg. C. As the substance is ordinarily softened by heat it is necessary to take some means to prevent it from sticking to the mould. For the purpose soapstone will answer, and the mould, as well as the piece of caoutchouc, should be well brushed or dusted with this substance.

The duration of the heating varies with the thickness of the rubber sheet. As a general thing from twenty to thirty minutes ought to be sufficient. It may be mentioned here that special apparatus can be purchased for pressing and vulcanizing. The proper vulcanization is of the greatest importance in determining the durability of the stamp.

All that remains to complete the stamps is the mounting of the rubber plate upon a suitable base or handle. This is best done either with zinc or with a solution of caoutchouc in benzine. The surface of the handle, as well as the back part of the stamps, having been covered with such a solution and well pressed together, after drying the entire stamp will be ready for use.—Amer. Lith. and Printer.

Vermin Exterminators.

Phosphorus or Luminous Paste.

This is an unequaled preparation for destroying rats, mice, cockroaches, etc. It attracts them by its luminous appearance and also by its odor, which is very attractive to all vermin. They eat it with great avidity.

Cook the flour and water to a thin paste; add the phosphorus—previously melted in a little hot water—and mix; then add the rest and stir until thoroughly mixed.

Other Methods of Destroying Rats.—(1) Mix some fine plaster of Paris with an equal quantity of flour; put the mixture in the place infested by the vermin and a vessel full of water beside it. The rats will devour the mixture and then drink, whereupon the plaster, brought into contact with the water, will become solid and like a stone in their stomachs, which will cause their deaths. (2) When a house is infested with rats which refuse to nibble at toasted cheese or the usual baits, a few drops of oil of rhodium poured on or near the bait will attract them while the most tempting baits fail. (3) Cover the floor near their holes and place into their haunts a quantity of caustic potash. This they lick with their tongues, which makes their mouths sore, and they not only shun this locality, but appear to tell all the neighboring rats about it. (4) Instead of using chloride of lime or potash a quantity of tar can be smeared in and around their haunts and they will disappear. Tar and rats do not agree. If a live rat be caught, smeared with tar, and allowed to escape into the holes he will do the smearing process thoroughly.

Roach and Moth Exterminator.

This new, simple, and cheap preparation makes no stain and kills the vermin immediately. The odor is not unpleasant, and is quickly removed by airing the room. Use by sprinkling, or moistening blotting paper with the solution.

Moth Powder.

Mix thoroughly and strew among the furs and woolens.

Bedbug Poison.

Apply with a feather or stick into their hiding places. Label poison, and place all such compounds out of the reach of children.

Poison Fly Paper.

Dissolve the concentrated lye in the water, add the sugar and boil the solution, meanwhile gradually adding the arsenic. While still warm dip porous paper (cut into small squares) in the solution and dry them. For use place in plates or saucers partly filled with water where the flies can get at them.

Sticky Fly Paper.

Boil together, spread thinly on manilla paper, place another sheet on top, and when wanted pull them apart and it is ready for use. This is now usually preferred to the poison paper, as the flies are caught and held and do not die and drop into food, etc.

Mosquito and Fly Frightener.

Melt the solid ingredients together, and when partly cooled add the other ingredients. This is an elegant preparation to rub on the hands and face where flies, mosquitos, gnats, etc., are troublesome.

Inks.

A good black ink can be made by boiling 3 pounds of logwood with sufficient water to leave a residue of 5 quarts. When cold add 3 drachms of yellow bichromate of potash and stir thoroughly. To prevent thickening add a few drops of solution of mercury salt. It flows freely from the pen. Its color at first is of a dark indigo-blue tint, changing soon into a permanent black. A beautiful gloss may be given to this or any other black ink by adding a strong solution of shellac and borax.

Fine Black Ink.

[FROM ANILINE.]

Dissolve the negrosine in a quart of hot water; dissolve the corrosive sublimate and dextrine in the remaining quart, and pour all together. This is a splendid ink, flows freely from the pen, and will keep well.

In making ink use care in buying the best anilines and other ingredients. This is important.

Fine Red Ink.

Simply dissolve the aniline in the water. No better bright, fiery red ink can be made.

Fine Violet Ink.

Dissolve the aniline in the alcohol and the dextrine in the hot water, and mix them.

Fine Blue Ink.

One-fourth of an ounce of Prussian blue may be used instead of the water blue aniline.

Fine Green Ink.

Aniline inks of any color can be made in a similar manner. Simply get the desired color of aniline. Maroon ink may be made by mixing equal quantities of black, blue, and red inks; yellow by adding 1 1/4 drachms of picric acid to 1 pint of hot water.

Copying Ink.

Take 1 pint of the violet-black ink and add 1 ounce each of sugar and gum Arabic. This is for what is called moist copying where a press is used. For what is termed dry copying mix about  1/3 pint of glycerine to a pint of any good black ink. The manuscript, if written on glazed paper, will not dry for hours, and will yield one or two fair, neat, dry copies by simple pressure of the hand. The writing should not be excessively fine nor the strokes uneven or heavy. The copies and the original are neater than when water is used.

Gaffard’s Indestructible Ink.

The potash water glass should be of the consistency of syrup.

Hektograph Ink.

(SEE PAGE 1.)

A good purple ink to use on the gelatine copying pad, or hektograph, is prepared as follows:

Dissolve the methyl-violet in the water and add the glycerine. Gently warm the solution for an hour, and after cooling add the alcohol.

When black hektograph ink is desired, instead of the methyl-violet use double the amount of negrosine.

White Ink.

An excellent white ink, which can be used with a pen for writing on colored cards or paper, may be made as follows:

If too thick add water; if too thin, more mucilage. Shake well while using.

Rubber Stamp Ink.

Ribbon Ink.

FOR TYPE-WRITERS, DATING STAMPS, ETC.

Dissolve the aniline in the alcohol and add the other ingredients.

Marking Ink.

FOR PACKAGES AND BOXES.

Boil the logwood with the water, add the acid and potash, and lastly the dextrine.

Indelible Ink.

FOR MARKING LINEN, ETC.

Dissolve 5 parts of lunar caustic in 10 parts of spirit of sal ammoniac. Add to the solution 7 parts of pure soda, 5 of gum Arabic, and 12 of water.

Ink for Writing on Metals.

VALUABLE IN MARKING TOOLS AND INSTRUMENTS.

Cover the portion of metal you wish to write upon with melted beeswax and allow it to cool. Write the inscription plainly with any sharp-pointed instrument through the beeswax to the metal. Apply the acids with a feather or rag, carefully filling each letter, and let it remain from one to thirty minutes, according to the desired depth of the lettering, after which wash off the beeswax and acids and rub over with a little sweet oil to prevent further rust or tarnish.

Ink Powders.

As in the case of fluid inks there are many formulas for preparing ink powders. The following are the best:

Black.—Nut-galls, 1 ounce; copperas,  1/2 ounce; gum Arabic, 7 ounces. Add one clove to this quantity. Or, take negrosine, 1 ounce; dextrine, 3 ounces; mix.

Blue.—Water blue aniline, 1 ounce; dextrine, 5 ounces. Or, soluble Prussian blue,  1/2 ounce; dextrine, 1 ounce.

Green.—Aniline green, 44 parts; gelatine, 4 parts, and lunar caustic, 2 parts. Or, green aniline, 1 part; dextrine, 4 parts.

Red.—Eosine aniline, 1 ounce; dextrine, 1 ounce.

A tea-spoonful to a table-spoonful of the powder is dissolved in 1 pint of water, requiring from  1/2 to 1 hour to make the solution.

Disappearing Ink.

Boil some nut-galls in aqua fortis, and add to the infusion some gum Arabic and a little sulphuric acid. When written on paper this ink is perfectly legible, but will disappear from the paper in a few days.

Invisible Ink.

Invisible inks are those which when first written are not visible, but upon the application of heat or other means the characters are made to appear distinctly. The following are decidedly the best preparations for this purpose: