At what date Mr. Niccol commenced his business the writer has not been able to find out, but he was engaged on shipbuilding in the ’fifties, during which period he built a vessel named the Moa. He also constructed a number of vessels for Australian owners and for the proprietors of the Circular Saw Line. One of the boats belonging to the latter, of which we have knowledge, was the barque Novelty, which was launched from Mr. Niccol’s yard, Mechanics Bay, on 11th October, 1862. She was the largest vessel built in Auckland up to that time—a record which still holds in local shipbuilding, as far as the writer’s knowledge obtains. Her dimensions were: Length over all, 147 feet; beam, 27 feet 6 inches; depth of hold, 14 feet 9 inches; registered tonnage, 376 tons. The christening of the vessel was performed by Miss Macfarlane, daughter of one of the owners, in traditional fashion, and the event, as befitted its importance, was celebrated by a banquet. The Novelty was a well-designed and faithfully-built vessel, and did good service for her owners. She did the voyage from Auckland to Sydney in five days.
No sketch of Auckland’s shipping history would be complete without some reference, however brief, to the Circular Saw Line, which was established by Messrs. Henderson and Macfarlane, two of Auckland’s pioneers. Mr. Henderson arrived in New Zealand in 1842, and some years later he was joined by Mr. Macfarlane. About 1846 they established a timber business at Henderson, and later erected a mill there. Among the places to which they exported kauri was Mauritius, the vessels which took the timber returning with cargoes of sugar. It may have been this enterprise which encouraged them to establish the fleet some time in the ’fifties. Commencing with the brig Spenser, Mr. Henderson made the first trip to Melbourne. While there he purchased the schooner Will o’ the Wisp, and established the inter-colonial trade. The brigs (of which class of vessel he owned six) and barques (of which no fewer than fifteen flew the flag of this line) were employed in the inter-colonial and ’Frisco services. The schooners, numbering fourteen, did the Island trade. Before the dissolution of the line in 1875, four steamers were added to the fleet, which were bought from the Panama Company. These vessels were placed in the New Zealand coastal service, plying from Onehunga.
In the ’fifties and ’sixties there were a number of cutters and schooners, owned and manned by Maoris, which traded between Auckland and various ports on the East Coast, sailing as far south as the Bay of Plenty. White traders also participated in the coastal trade, amongst whom was Mr. H. J. Wadham, stevedore, of Auckland, who owned a number of fine vessels, drawings of which have recently been presented to the Old Colonists’ Museum.
During the first two or three decades of the port’s history, most of the shipping was by sail, and as the movements of these sailers were erratic, a continuous record is a rather difficult matter. With the advent of steam in the ’fifties, and its development in the following years, a more satisfactory account is possible.
Besides the Circular Saw Line we have records of other ships.[27] The Wonga Wonga, a steamer of 67 tons, was owned by a number of Auckland merchants, who placed the vessel on the Whangarei service in 1857. After a few months running she was sold to the Wellington Steamship Company and placed in the Wellington-Nelson service; later, during the Taranaki war, she was chartered at £60 a day to carry despatches between Onehunga and Taranaki. Her career ended on 22nd May, 1866, when she was wrecked off Greymouth. Early in the ’sixties the Rangatira arrived in Auckland, having been built at Home for local owners. Shortly afterwards the steamers Corio and Ahuriri entered the Auckland-Napier trade. In 1864 services were opened to Coromandel, North Auckland, and the Waikato (via Onehunga). Altogether, there were in 1868 fourteen steamers trading from Auckland. The opening of the Thames goldfield in 1867 gave an impetus to the trade of the port, and Mr. S. Hague Smith placed a number of steamers on this run, including the Duke of Edinburgh (Captain W. Farquhar) and Royal Albert (Captain Alex. Farquhar), the latter vessel having been built at Niccol’s yard, North Shore, her engines being taken from the Prince Alfred, and her boiler manufactured at Sydney, from plans prepared by Mr. James Stewart, of Auckland, civil engineer. Other boats engaged on this service were the Favourite, the Williams (218 tons), and the Golden Crown. In 1873 Mr. Smith sold his fleet to the Auckland Steam Packet Company.
The first regular inter-colonial service between New South Wales and New Zealand was inaugurated by the William Denny (595 tons), in 1854. She was wrecked at North Cape, March 3rd, 1857. In 1859 the Inter-Colonial Royal Mail Steamship Company took up the Australian run, the Prince Alfred (1100 tons) being one of the fleet engaged. This company maintained the service until 1866, when the Panama, New Zealand and Australian Line superseded it, absorbing its fleet. The object of the new company, which held a monopoly of the mails, was to connect Australia and New Zealand with the continent of Europe, via Panama. A rearrangement of the inter-colonial service was made, so as to connect with the trans-Pacific steamers. This arrangement lasted till 1869. The year following a temporary service between Sydney and San Francisco was inaugurated, Auckland being the port of call, the following ships being engaged in it, viz, Rangatira and Balclutha, which were soon replaced by the City of Melbourne and Wonga Wonga.
The year 1854 also saw the establishment of a regular inter-provincial steamer service. The Nelson (330 tons, Captain Martin) was the pioneer vessel, Dunedin and Onehunga being the terminal ports, and New Plymouth, Nelson, Wellington and Lyttelton ports of call. In 1855 the Zingari (150 tons, Captain Milltown) replaced the Nelson. Other steamers engaged during this period on the coastal routes were the Claud Hamilton and the White Swan, which was wrecked on June 29th, 1862, a number of public records belonging to the Government being lost.
The Inter-Colonial R.M.S. Company met with opposition in the coastal service from the New Zealand Steam Navigation Company, which had been formed upon the liquidation of the Wellington Steamship Company, in 1863, the following steamers being used in the running of the service, viz, Stormbird, Wellington and Queen.
Another line which traded between Dunedin and Auckland was the Adelaide, Melbourne and Otago S.N. Company, which placed the Alhambra (642 tons) and Aldinga (446 tons) on this run.
The wreck of H.M.S. Orpheus on the Manukau Bar on February 7th, 1863, was the most appalling disaster associated with Auckland’s shipping annals. The Orpheus (Commodore W. F. Burnett) was a corvette of 1706 tons, which had been detailed for service on the New Zealand station. She sailed from Sydney on January 31st, and reached the Manukau Heads on 7th February. In attempting to cross the bar the vessel “struck hard, and orders were given to back astern full speed. The engines never moved; the ship fell off broadside to the rollers, the sea knocking away her stern post, port bulwarks and boats, and making a clean sweep over all.” A cutter containing the ship’s records, and a pinnace got safely away. After the pinnace had left the ship, “the launch was got over the side with forty men to lay out anchors, in the hope of making grapplings to haul into smooth water. The ebb-tide, unhappily, swept her under the bows, where she was stove, and nearly all on board drowned.” The pinnace, however, was able to get into touch with the steamer Wonga Wonga, and later with H.M.S. Harrier, and the few survivors from the wreck were picked up by the former vessel. About 6.30 p.m. the masts went, and the ship parted in halves. A contemporary account of the disaster states that the officers and men underwent the terrible ordeal in heroic fashion, and “when the masts went the crew gave three cheers, as if taking farewell of life.” Out of a ship’s company of 256 officers, seamen, boys and marines, only 71 survived. The remains of some of the crew, including the commodore, which were washed ashore, were interred in Symonds Street cemetery. The disaster created consternation in the city, and a day of mourning was observed in memory of those who lost their lives.
Auckland buildings of the ’fifties and ’sixties were, with few exceptions, constructed of wood, and fires were of constant occurrence. In those days, fire-fighting appliances were of a most elementary character, consisting of buckets, and, later, of reels and what would now be considered very primitive fire engines. There was a volunteer fire brigade, and water could only be procured from wells or from the sea. Under such circumstances, it is not surprising that fires were common events; indeed, had the town been completely wiped out by fire it would not have been too great a surprise, considering the conditions. What is remarkable is that no fatalities attended the outbreaks.
The most serious fire which had occurred up to this time was that which broke out at two o’clock on the morning of the 7th of July, 1858. It originated at the Osprey Inn, High Street, and, fanned by a strong north-easterly gale, the fire soon covered an area bounded by Chancery, High, Shortland and O’Connell Streets. But for a providential change in the direction of the wind and the coming of rain, which soaked the adjacent buildings, the fire might have caused even greater damage. As it was the conflagration was only arrested in Shortland Street by the voluntary blowing up of Mr. Keesing’s house, thus making a gap in the direction the fire was taking. Before dawn the flames had consumed fifty houses, mostly belonging to tradespeople, rendering their plight deplorable. So rapid was the progress of the fire that the inhabitants had merely time to save themselves, in many cases clothed only in night attire. Although the damage was so considerable, the Volunteer Fire Brigade and the officers and men of the 58th Regiment earned credit for their expeditious and willing help. The fire-fighters carried out their work wrapped in blankets, over which water was constantly poured to save them from the heat of the flames.
The second large fire experienced in Auckland took place in the early hours of January 17th, 1863. Commencing in the premises occupied by Messrs. Morrin & Co., at the corner of Queen Street and Durham Street East, it spread rapidly, and soon stretched to Victoria Street and High Street. In its course it destroyed the Thistle Hotel, the Greyhound, Y.M.C.A., the old theatre, and other buildings. It even threatened the buildings on the opposite sides of Queen and High Streets. The Volunteer Fire Brigade was assisted by military from the barracks, and the sailors from the French warship Bonite earned well-deserved credit for their services and daring deeds. Fortunately, a light wind was blowing, or the losses, which were serious enough—amounting, it was estimated, to £60,000—would have been greater. Many of the sufferers by the fire were succoured and accommodated in the barracks for a time.
Two years later (January 18th, 1865) another big fire broke out in Queen Street, in premises occupied by Mr. J. S. Macfarlane, known as Henderson and Macfarlane’s Buildings. Luckily, the outbreak was confined to the two upper storeys, which were, however, completely gutted. The fire was both brilliant and spectacular, and attracted enormous crowds, which had to be kept back from the building by soldiers with fixed bayonets.
Queen Street was again the scene of a fire which fills the annals of 1866. This conflagration commenced about 10 p.m. on August 28th in Lower Queen Street, on the western side, almost on the waterfront, and in less than fifteen minutes from the alarm being given twelve buildings were in flames. The fire was noticed first in the premises occupied by Messrs. Malcolm, sail makers, but so swift was its progress that in the short period mentioned it had obtained a hold of so many buildings. The flames ignited the buildings on the eastern side of Queen Street, but this incipient outbreak was rapidly suppressed. The damage was estimated at £20,000. The newspapers of the time give praise to the Volunteer Fire Brigade, whose engines and equipment had become improved.
On 31st March of the same year a gale, accompanied by heavy rains, which caused floods, did a very great amount of damage, estimated also at £20,000. It was the severest gale which the town of Auckland had experienced. Nine vessels and a coal hulk were sunk in the harbour, and many others were severely damaged, or caused injury to the wharves. The heavy seas which broke on the waterfront destroyed property, particularly at Mr. Stone’s shipbuilding yard at the Strand. The town suffered from the rain, which, gaining entrance to stores and cellars, damaged merchandise and stores.
On April 15th, 1865, lighting by gas was introduced into Auckland. It was an event of great importance to the citizens of the time. The New Zealand Herald describes how the innovation was received:—“A large proportion of the city population had assembled in the streets to welcome the advent of the ‘New Light,’ and the début of the much-longed-for novelty may be considered to have been quite as brilliant as that of any star that has appeared among us for a long time. In fact, Queen Street was thronged until an advanced hour of the evening with moving crowds of gazers, who seemed never to weary of staring at the unwonted spectacle presented to them, while there were occasional ‘rushes’ into some of the other streets, as the report spread of some particularly effective illumination or of some establishment whose meter had come to grief, and left it in sudden and ignoble obscurity.”
Previous to the introduction of gas for lighting, oil and candles had been used. In the Old Colonists’ Museum there may be seen an apparatus for making candles. Every household had one of these.
The first Royal visit to Auckland took place in 1869, when Prince Alfred, the second son of Queen Victoria, better known as the Duke of Edinburgh, arrived in the Waitemata, on May 8th, on board H.M.S. Galatea. He was even more popularly known as the Sailor Prince. The Galatea was the largest ship which had visited the harbour, her tonnage being 3227 tons. She employed both sail and steam. The visit naturally created excitement amongst the population of the city and district. As became the occasion, the city was beflagged and decorated with bunting, greenery, triumphal arches, and with illuminations known as transparencies. The harbour, too, presented a picturesque appearance. The fleet in port numbered 92 vessels, totalling 9252 tons, exclusive of H.M.Ss. Challenger, Galatea and Virago, and small sailing craft. All were gaily decorated.
On Monday, the 10th, the official landing took place. Military detachments, both regulars and volunteers, were present from various parts of the province and from the city. Conspicuous among the people congregated on the wharf were a large number of Maoris from the West Coast, who had assisted the Imperial troops in the recent wars. The 18th (Royal Irish) Regiment, with its band, formed the guard of honour.
Owing to a disturbing wind, a marine demonstration which had been projected was abandoned. The weather, however, did not deter the Maoris, in native costume, from embarking in their canoes and welcoming the Duke in traditional fashion.
A Royal salute of twenty-one guns announced the departure of His Royal Highness from the Galatea, and in a short time he reached the wharf, where he was welcomed to Auckland by the Governor, Sir George Ferguson Bowen, who was attended by the naval and military officers, members of Parliament, officials, the clergy, citizens, and natives. An address of welcome was read by Mr. John Williamson, Superintendent, on behalf of the Province of Auckland, which was followed by an address of welcome by the Chief Paul on behalf of the natives. As the Duke walked along the wharf, a contingent of between 500 and 600 Maoris danced a haka in honour of the Royal visitor.
At Custom-House Street the City Commissioners presented, through their chairman, an address of welcome on behalf of the citizens. The formalities having been thus observed, a procession was formed, and the distinguished visitor drove through streets gaily decorated, to receive a popular welcome. At Government House, where the cavalcade came to its destination, members of friendly societies and other organisations were drawn up to welcome the Prince. Here, also, some 1500 school children sang the National Anthem. Later in the day a levée was held.
Only one incident occurred to mar the rejoicings. During the firing of the salute on the Galatea a sailor was blown overboard. Sub-lieutenant O’Connor jumped into the water and rescued the unfortunate man, who was found to have had his right arm so injured as to necessitate amputation. His left hand was entirely blown away, except one finger.
The Duke remained in Auckland until June 1st, delaying his departure in the hope of being able to assist in settling the native trouble. However, he had to leave without any result accruing from his well-intentioned purpose. He was fêted in the usual way, but the most important public function with which his name is connected was the opening of the Auckland Grammar School.[28]
The Auckland Grammar School, which was a most unpretentious affair, was opened by the Duke of Edinburgh on May 17th, 1869. The building, which was situated in Howe Street, off Karangahape Road, had been used as an Emigrants’ Home. The staff consisted of the Head Master, the Rev. Robert Kidd, B.A., LL.D., and five other masters. On May 1st, 1871 the school was transferred to the Albert Barracks, into the building subsequently used as Police Barracks. At this transfer Mr. Farquhar Macrae became Head Master, with Dr. Kidd as Classical Master, the total staff being increased to nine. Here the school remained till June, 1878. On July 8th of this year the school was removed to the District Court, Eden Street, now demolished, but the building proved inadequate, and extra accommodation had to be found in an old Maori Chapel in Parliament Street, and in St. Andrew’s School, Symonds Street. During Sir George Grey’s premiership a grant of £5000 was made for erecting a new building, which was supplemented by £3000 from Grammar School funds. With these combined sums the Symonds Street building was erected in 1879, and was opened by Sir George Grey on 5th February, 1880. In 1882 Mr. C. F. Bourne succeeded Mr. Macrae as Head Master, which position he held until 1892. The following year the present Head Master of the school, Mr. James William Tibbs, M.A., was appointed. In 1888 the Girls’ College, founded by Mr. Neil Heath, and carried on by him for some years in the old Wesley College, Queen Street, was united to the Grammar School, and the girls were transferred to the Symonds Street building. Here the girls remained under Mr. Tibbs until 1906, when the Board of Governors decided to place them under a Head Mistress, and to erect a building for their sole use. Miss Whitelaw was appointed to the position, and on April 8th, 1909, the new school in Howe Street, known as the Girls’ Grammar School, was opened by the Hon. George Fowlds, Minister of Education. Miss Whitelaw retired from the Head Mistressship in 1910, and was succeeded by Miss Butler in the following year. Miss Butler held the position until 1920. Miss Picken is the present Head Mistress. The increase in the number of students attending the school was so large that another school was opened at Epsom in 1917. Miss Morrison is in charge of this school.
The Boys’ Grammar School also continued to increase, and about 1910 steps were taken to obtain a larger site and a modern building. In 1915 the Government granted a site occupying 15 acres in Mountain Road, on which the present building was erected. It was officially opened on 26th April, 1916, by the Governor, the Earl of Liverpool. In addition to class rooms, etc., designed to accommodate about 800 boys, it has ample playing grounds. Messrs. Arnold and Abbott were the architects, and Mr. W. E. Hutchison the contractor for the building, which cost £31,450 to erect. Although only five years have elapsed since the opening of the new school, the accommodation is inadequate for the number of boys desiring secondary education, and a new school is under construction at Mount Albert to meet the demand.
Another institution of an educational character began its career in this period. This was the Auckland Museum, which was opened on October 24th, 1852, in a small four-roomed cottage in Grafton Road. Dr. Andrew Sinclair was the moving spirit in the young museum, and upon his death its activity languished. In 1859 Dr. Hochstetter renovated the collection, but it again fell into neglect. Captain F. W. Hutton resuscitated the museum, and under his supervision it was removed, in 1867, to the Provincial Government Offices (where the Northern Club now stands). The following year it was amalgamated with the Auckland Institute, which had been established in 1867. Through the influence of Mr. Justice Gillies a site at the corner of Princes Street and Eden Crescent, with the buildings which had been used as a Post Office, was secured, and to these inadequate premises the collection was removed. In 1876 the present building was opened. The increase of the collection has rendered this building unequal to the development of the museum, and a new building, which will combine the purpose of a War Memorial and Museum, is to be erected in the Domain.
Church development was a feature of this period. St. Matthew’s Church was constituted a parish in 1853, the school which stood on the site of the present church being used for the purpose. Later a wooden building was erected, which was superseded in 1905, when the new church was opened on March 7th of that year. This building, which occupies one of the most commanding positions in the city, was designed by Mr. F. L. Pearson, F.R.I.B.A., and cost £27,000 to erect. The foundation stone was laid on the 23rd of April, 1902, with full Masonic honours. Messrs. Malcolm and Ferguson were the contractors, and Mr. E. Bartley supervising architect. The stone used in the construction came from the Oamaru and Mount Somers quarries. The principal dimensions are: length, 151 feet; width (transept), 100 feet; height from floor to ceiling, 70 feet; height of tower, 147 feet.
St. Mary’s pro-Cathedral, Parnell, was dedicated by Bishop Selwyn on October 14th, 1860, Archdeacon G. S. Kissling being the first incumbent. The foundation stone of the present building was laid by the Primate (Bishop Harper) on February 6th, 1886. The building was not completed until 1898, when it was dedicated by Bishop Cowie, Archdeacon Macmurray being the vicar. The church was designed by Mr. B. W. Mountfoot, and was built by Mr. R. R. Ross.
The Church of the Holy Sepulchre was established in 1865 in a temporary building on land adjoining the Auckland cemetery. In 1881 the present building in Khyber Pass Road was opened, on 29th June, by Bishop Cowie. It cost over £5000. Messrs. Mahoney and Sons were the architects, and Mr. James the contractor.
All Saints, Ponsonby, was opened on December 21st, 1866, by Bishop Selwyn, who was responsible for the services for some time afterwards. The building has been enlarged since the original structure was erected.
After the erection of St. Patrick’s Cathedral, no additions to the Roman Catholic churches were made until 1866, when Bishop Pompallier built the Church of S. Francis de Sales in the cemetery, near the corner of Symonds and East Streets. This old church was replaced by St. Benedinct’s Church, which was opened on July 23, 1882, Dr. Redwood, Bishop of Wellington, officiating at the consecration. The building, which was constructed of kauri, was built by Mr. T. Colebrook, from the plans of Messrs. Mahoney and Sons, and cost over £6000. It was destroyed by fire on 18th December, 1886. In a little over a year the present brick church was completed, and was opened by Bishop Luck, in the presence of Dr. Redwood, on 22nd April, 1888. Messrs. Mahoney and Sons were again the architects, and Mr. J. J. Holland the builder. The interior decorations in both buildings were the work of Father Luck. The cost of the land upon which the church is built was £1150, and the building, excluding furniture, £5950.
For ten years after the opening of St. Andrew’s, the Presbyterians did not add to their number of churches. The first outgrowth of St. Andrew’s was St. James’s, Wellington Street, which was erected to a charge in 1860, the services being carried on in the school house. The present building was opened on March 26th, 1865. It was designed by Mr. T. B. Cameron, and was built by Mr. Andrew Clow, the contract price being £2500.
St. David’s Church has had an interesting history. In 1864 the session of St. Andrew’s erected a preaching station at the junction of Khyber Pass Road and Symonds Street, and named it St. David’s Church. Rev. James Wallis was the first minister, and under his care the church flourished until 1867, when a division arose in the congregation, leading to its abandonment. After a lapse of ten years it was re-established and re-opened on 10th March, 1878. Shortly afterwards St. David’s was elevated to a session. In 1880 the present church was erected in Symonds Street, in the allotment at the front of the old building, by Mr. James Heron, from the plans of Mr. E. Bartley. It was removed to its present location in 1902.
The first Baptist Church in Auckland was formed in 1855. A chapel and schoolroom were erected in Wellesley Street at the corner of Chapel Street. About 1880 Mr. Thomas Spurgeon, a son of the famous evangelical preacher, became pastor. The congregation had now grown to such dimensions that the Choral Hall was requisitioned for the Sunday evening service, and proved too small. It was thereupon decided to build the Tabernacle. This building was opened on May 12th, 1885. The building, which is Corinthian in style, was designed by Mr. Edmund Bell, the contractor being Mr. J. J. Holland. It cost £14,000, including furnishings.
The Wesleyan denomination erected two churches during this period, one in Pitt Street, the other in Grafton Road. The former was opened for worship on the 4th of October, 1866. Wesley Hall, adjoining the church, was erected in 1877, and is used as a schoolroom. Including the parsonage, the buildings belonging to this church cost £20,000 to erect. The Grafton Road Church was erected in 1866, and was replaced by a new building, which was dedicated to public worship in July, 1885. The Helping Hand Mission was instituted in the early ’eighties, and in 1885 the hall in Drake Street was opened.
The Congregational Church was founded in 1851, and the first church was situated in High Street, and existed till 1876. The premier church, however, is Beresford Street Church, which was established in March of the following year, the services being held in Shamrock Cottage, Albert Street. A church was erected close to this cottage in 1854, and was called the Albert Street Congregational Church. The present church was erected in 1876, and is reputed to be the first concrete building erected in Auckland. The Newton Church, Edinburgh Street, was founded in 1864.
The first Primitive Methodist Church was built in Alexandra Street in 1851, on a site given by Governor Sir George Grey. Prior to union with the Wesleyan denomination there were two circuits in connection with this Church, of which the Alexandra Street Church was the chief centre; the other centre was the Franklin Road Church. Upon the union taking place the Church became The Methodist Church of New Zealand.
The Jewish community opened its first church in Emily Place in 1858. Rabbi Elkin was the first minister. He was succeeded in 1881 by the present minister, Rabbi Goldstein. The Synagogue in Princes Street was opened in 1885.
The Auckland Y.M.C.A. was founded by Mr. R. B. Shalders, and its first building—a mere four walls—was erected in the founder’s garden, Chapel Street, in 1855. Next year the association procured larger premises in Durham Street, which were destroyed by the fire of January 17th, 1863. The third building was erected in 1868 at the corner of Albert and Wellesley Streets, and occupied two floors. On the same site the fourth building (a four-storeyed one) was erected in 1886. Mr. P. F. M. Burrows was the architect. The present building was opened by the Governor, the Earl of Liverpool, on April 30th, 1913. Mr. Alex. Wiseman was the architect, and Messrs Grevatt and Sons the contractors. The sister institution—the Y.W.C.A.—was not founded until 1878. From that date until 1903 the association used rented premises. In 1903 a building, originally designed for a warehouse, was acquired in Wellesley Street East, where it carried on its activities until the present premises in Upper Queen Street, designed by Mr. W. H. Gummer, A.R.I.B.A., were opened in 1918.
The three decades from the ’seventies to the ’nineties are characterised by distinct features. At the opening period the city, which was just recovering from the effects of the Maori War, was making steady progress. This advance culminated in a boom in the ’eighties, which brought forth the usual sequel in the following decade—a financial crisis, from which it recovered before the opening of the new century. The official census reflects these features. The population of the city in 1871 was 12,937, an increase of 4948 over the figures of 1861. In 1881 the number had risen to 16,664, an increase in ten years of 3727. Five years later the residents of Auckland City totalled 33,161, an accession to the population of a hundred per cent. In 1891 the number had diminished to 28,613, but was again on the up-grade in 1896, the population at that date being 31,424, and before the end of the ’nineties it had approximated to the number of people which the city contained in 1886, fourteen years previously.
The phenomenal increase in the population of New Zealand in the mid-’seventies was due largely to the control of immigration passing from the provincial councils to the general government, and the vigorous policy inaugurated by it. In 1874 and 1875 no fewer than 50,000 immigrants arrived in the Dominion. Judging by the census returns, the city did not gain largely by this influx of immigrants, although the provincial figures show that the country profited by it. The South Island was the greater gainer during these years, due mainly to the prosperity following upon the discovery of gold and to the better social and economic conditions which existed there. The South Island had no Maori War to unsettle it.
The first half of the ’eighties, however, found the Auckland Province booming, and in this prosperity the city shared. The progress, however, was too rapid to be healthy; it was not built upon steady work, but was in the nature of speculation, particularly in land, which could not be characterised as wise. The inevitable happened; financial undertakings, great and small, became involved, and many succumbed. Amongst such institutions, the Bank of New Zealand, with its New Zealand shareholders, was numbered. Its failure would have brought ruin or serious hardship to many people, and the manner in which the Government of the day came to the rescue has already been indicated (p. 109). During the depression many residents sold out and emigrated to Australia, or elsewhere, some permanently, others temporarily. Houses and shops everywhere became vacant, and rents became absurdly low. In some cases people shut up their houses, boarded over doors and windows, and went away. The young city was experiencing the most serious reverse in its history, but the speed with which it recovered itself demonstrated its vitality.
With the advent of the ’seventies, Auckland may be said to have arrived at the modern period; the previous thirty years being now looked upon as the colonising era. In 1871 the city was constituted by Proclamation under “The Municipal Corporations Act, 1867,” and in the same year the Auckland Harbour Board, to which the administration of the port was delegated by an Act of Parliament of the previous year, held its first meeting.
The boundaries of the city had been defined in “The City Board Act, 1863,” and were confirmed in the Proclamation of 1871. They were as follows:—Stanley Street, Symonds Street, Karangahape Road, Ponsonby Road, and Franklin Road. From this small area—some 623 acres—it has grown by the amalgamation of adjacent districts. The first addition was made in 1882, when the highway districts of Ponsonby (755 acres), Karangahape (139 acres) and Grafton (88 acres) were annexed to the city. Until 1913 the boundaries remained stationary, but from that date the following districts have joined the city:—Arch Hill, 1st January, 1913 (154 acres); Parnell, 15th February, 1913 (490 acres); Grey Lynn, 1st July, 1914 (900 acres); Remuera, 1st March, 1915 (2520 acres); Eden Terrace, 1st October, 1915 (95 acres); Epsom, 1st February, 1917, (860 acres), and Point Chevalier, 1st April, 1921 (1220 acres). The city now extends over 7844 acres.
Calliope Dock, opened 16th February, 1888
H.M.Ss. Calliope and Diamond in the dock
The urgency and necessity of a satisfactory system of local government may be estimated by the unhappy condition of the city with regard to its water supply. The only water obtainable prior to 1869 (apart from rain-water stored in barrels, etc., by householders) was drawn from the various wells, fed by springs. In January, 1872, owing to a drought, water was sold in the streets by hawkers. This state of affairs resulted in the Corporation arranging to pump 30,000 gallons of water daily from Seccombe’s Well, Khyber Pass Road. The water was stored in a small reservoir, situated on the top of the Domain Hill, the remains of which are still visible. Later, in 1875, the City Council purchased, for £20,000, Western Springs, from which source the city’s water supply was obtained for many years. At this period the Council did not embrace the same wide field of activity which it does now; road formation, water and sewerage being the principal undertakings.
New City Markets were opened on June 20th, 1873, the foundation stone having been laid on November 11th of the preceding year. The Mayor (Mr. P. A. Philips) performed both ceremonies. The building cost £10,000, and was used until the present markets were completed in 1917 and 1918.
Auckland’s first trams, which were horse-drawn, and were conducted by a company, commenced running on August 11, 1884. The route traversed was from the Waitemata Hotel by Queen Street to the Ponsonby reservoir, and the fare was threepence.
The building of the Public Library and Art Gallery was an event in the history of the city, and was indicative of the desire for knowledge and advancement which was a feature of the time. The Mechanics’ Institute had fallen on evil days, and the City Council acquired the premises, stock and freehold in 1880. The building, part of which was then some 38 years old, was not in good repair, nor was it large enough for the purposes of an up-to-date library. Two years after the founding of the Public Library, Sir George Grey offered to present his books, pictures and curios to the city. The City Council thereupon decided to erect a building which would suitably house these and other collections. Designs for a library and art gallery building were invited, and that of Messrs. Grainger and D’Ebro, of Melbourne, was accepted. The foundation stone was laid on 4th June, 1885, by the Mayor (Mr. William Richard Waddel), and the Library was opened on March 26th, 1887, Mr. A. E. T. Devore, Mayor, presiding. Messrs. James Malcolm and William Price were the contractors. The contract was let for £21,851. The Art Gallery was opened a year later, on February 17th.
The growth of the Public Library and Art Gallery has been both rapid and interesting. At its inception the stock consisted of some 6000 volumes, the majority of which were acquired from the Provincial Council Library. At the opening of the new building the collection numbered 15,000 volumes, the increase being largely due to the accession of Sir George Grey’s library. From 1887 until 1898, Sir George kept adding to the library, enriching it to such an extent that the Auckland Library obtained what is, perhaps, an unique position among municipal libraries throughout the world. Among the 15,000 volumes which he presented are many rare and interesting early manuscripts, some being illuminated, a valuable array of incunabula, including three Caxtons, and a number of literary treasures, amongst which the first, second and fourth folios of Shakespeare, as well as the “Poems” of Shakespeare, 1640, are worthy of special mention. The Grey collection also contains an interesting series of autograph letters.
Later bequests to the Library include the J. T. Mackelvie collection, the McKechnie collection, the Fred Shaw collection and the Henry Shaw collection. The last-mentioned runs on somewhat similar lines to the Grey collection, and contains many Oriental and other manuscripts, a large number of Fifteenth and Sixteenth Century printed books, and a splendid collection of works in general literature in best copies. The section dealing with arts and crafts is especially noteworthy. There are also a number of grangerised books, the “Edinburgh Folio Shakespeare,” which has over 3000 illustrations added to it, being the most important. Further particularisation of these collections is impossible here, but these brief remarks may give some slight idea of their literary, artistic and bibliographical value. Of monetary bequests, mention should be made of Mr. Edward Costley’s gift of £12,150.
Auckland Public Library, 1880
Formerly the Mechanics’ Institute and Library, established 1842
Public Library, Art Gallery and Old Colonists’ Museum, to-day
The progress illustrated in these pictures may be taken as typical of the growth of the
City’s Institutions in general
The Art Gallery has been equally fortunate. The nucleus of the gallery, consisting mainly of old masters and other pictures, was given by Sir George Grey, and other public spirited citizens have followed his example. The most notable bequest, however, was that of the late James Tannock Mackelvie, who bequeathed, in 1885, his valuable art collection, along with a large sum of money, in trust, to establish and maintain a Museum of Fine Art for the people of Auckland. By an arrangement between the trustees and the Corporation, an addition was made to the Art Gallery building, and the collection deposited there. It now contains a well chosen selection of modern British and Continental pictures and objets d’art. Altogether, the Auckland Art Gallery takes the premier position among institutions of its kind in New Zealand. To provide accommodation for the rapidly increasing number of pictures, a further addition was made to the Gallery in 1916, and was opened by Mr. J. H. Gunson, Mayor, on December 6th, but already the room has proved insufficient for the growth of the collections. The city authorities have specialised in New Zealand art, and this section contains an interesting group of paintings by local artists.
The Old Colonists’ Museum, which is housed in the Library and Art Gallery building, was opened on March 22, 1916, by the Mayor (Mr. J. H. Gunson). It contains an extensive collection of pictures, maps, plans and mementoes illustrating the early days of New Zealand, especially North Auckland and the city.
The Elam School of Art, which was established by the will of the late Dr. J. E. Elam, who bequeathed a sum of £6500 for the purpose, was located in the Public Library building from 1890 until 1915; in this year the school was moved to a new building which had been erected in Rutland Street.
The work of the Harbour Board, as far as the city is concerned, has been devoted principally to reclamation and wharves. Prior to the constitution of the Harbour Board, the port was under the control of the Provincial Council. Some reclamation had been carried out by that body, for at the time of the transference of the control from the Provincial Council to the Board considerable alteration had taken place on the foreshores. In the ’forties, Commercial Bay swept round from Britomart Point along a beach, which subsequently became Fort Street, to a headland known successively as Stanley Point and Smales Point. This promontory stood in the vicinity of Albert Street and Customs Street West. By 1870 the foreshore had been reclaimed, and Customs Street East added to the city’s highways. At that date Customs Street ended at the foot of a cliff, and a long flight of steps, known as “Jacob’s Ladder,” led up to Emily Place. On the western side of Queen Street, Customs Street finished at the waterfront opposite Albert Street.
The wharf accommodation in 1870 was very small indeed. The first Auckland wharf was the Wynyard Pier, which was built in the ’forties, and was situated in Official Bay in a direct line from Short Street. Commercial Bay had from the first been selected as the shipping centre of Auckland, and by 1852, one can gather from Hogan’s engraving (p. 72) that considerable work has been expended upon the improvement of the facilities for loading and unloading vessels. The Queen Street Wharf has always been the principal wharf, but in 1852 there was a small pier leading from the lane which ran from the Victoria Hotel to Shortland Street, and east of Graham’s Bond (a stone building which still stands in Fort Street, but at that time was right on the waterfront) there was a landing stage. Between 1852 and 1870 a new wooden wharf replaced the Queen Street one, another was erected opposite Gore Street, and a breakwater had been built from Britomart Point.
This was the state of the waterfront when the Harbour Board undertook the management of the port.
One of the earliest tasks the Board undertook was the demolition of Point Britomart, which occupied several years to accomplish. The spoil was used for reclamation between that point and Queen Street, and on this area the railway yards, electric power station, cold stores, and other establishments have been built, adding Quay Street to the number of city thoroughfares.
To the west of Queen Street the reclaimed area can be easily distinguished on account of the regular low-lying nature of the streets comprised within it. If one follows a route from Queen Street along Customs, Sturdee, Fanshawe, Halsey, Patteson and Beaumont Streets, where the last named street junctions with Fanshawe Street, this would give roughly the foreshore as it existed in 1870. The reclamations, which include the area now occupied by Victoria Park, were completed about 1900.
The Harbour Board is still engaged upon reclamation work, adding considerably to the city and port’s facilities.
The wharves did not alter much during the first thirty years of the Board’s control. In this period the Queen Street Wharf was practically rebuilt and considerably enlarged, and the Railway Wharf erected. At a later date, Hobson Street Wharf, the Quay Street Jetty and other jetties were built. In the ’eighties Gore Street Wharf was demolished in connection with the Quay Street reclamations, and extra wharf provision was made parallel to this street. All these wharves were constructed of wood. In 1900 the comprehensive scheme of wharves in concrete was commenced, and has been steadily pushed forward. At the present time the port’s wharves are a credit to the authorities, alike in size, number and equipment, and, although the accommodation for ships has been greatly increased, the Board is occupied with further extensions, to enable it to keep pace with the growth of the port’s shipping.
Docking accommodation for the repair of vessels was also put in hand by the Harbour Board. On May 1st, 1876, the Auckland Graving Dock, which was situated opposite Hobson Street, was commenced, and was opened on August 20th, 1878. This dock was used for small vessels. It was abandoned in 1913 and the site filled in.
The Calliope Dock, on the North Shore, was opened by the Governor (Sir William F. D. Jervois) on February 16th, 1888, in the presence of Admiral Fairfax, commander of the fleet on the Australasian station. The day was made the occasion of a public holiday. Bunting was to be seen everywhere: in the city, at Devonport, and on the vessels in the harbour. Two of her Majesty’s ships of war, the Calliope and Diamond, steamed into the new dock, the former cutting the ribbon stretched across. The dock was, when opened, the largest graving dock possessed by any colony, and had cost up to that date £135,000. It required an additional expenditure of £20,000 to make it as complete as possible. Mr. Pierce Lanigan was the contractor, Mr. W. Errington the engineer, and Mr. Swainson clerk of works.
H.M.S. Calliope, which, as has been mentioned, was the first vessel to enter the dock, became famous in the annals of seamanship only a month later, when, during the great storm of 16th March, 1888, which struck Samoa, she sailed out from Apia under the command of Captain Kane. All the vessels which remained in the harbour were wrecked.