[417] The Regiment de Champagne was one of the most famous of the vieux corps, and claimed to be the second oldest regiment in the French army.
[418] The system of dosing the wine does not appear to have been practised prior to the present century.
[419] The high favour in which sugar-candy is held for mixing with this Champagne liqueur dates from the latter part of the last century, when there was a perfect mania for everything in a crystallised form, as being the height of condensation and purity. The competition between the first houses of Reims and Epernay to secure the largest and finest crystals was very keen, and it was considered disgraceful for any firm of standing to make use of sugar-candy of a yellow tinge or in small crystals. Latterly it has been demonstrated that these expensive crystals contain more water and less saccharine matter than an equal weight of loaf-sugar, and that they sometimes contain a glutinous element capable of imparting an insipid flavour to the wine.—Mauméné’s Traité du Travail des Vins.
[420] Instances have been known of additions of 25 and even 30 per cent of liqueur, though the average may be taken to be for Germany and France, 15 to 18 per cent; America, 10 to 15 per cent; England, 2 to 6 per cent.
[421] The corrosive action of rust upon the wire has led to several attempts to replace it, and some Champagne houses have adopted more or less ingenious appliances of metal, &c. Tinned iron wire has been found to resist rust, but is too expensive; whilst an experiment with galvanised wire resulted in serious illness amongst the workmen handling it, owing to the poisonous fumes evolved by the zinc when acted upon by the acids of the wine.
[422] M. Viollet-le-Duc, Dictionnaire raisonné de l’Architecture du Vme au XVIme Siècle.
[423] An engraving of this tower, removed while the present work was passing through the press, will be found on p. 50.
[425] Read before the Academy of Reims in February 1845, printed by them in their Transactions, and subsequently republished in volume form.
[426] It is generally supposed that the gate took its name from a hospital standing a short distance without the walls, and destined for the reception either of lepers or of pilgrims arriving after nightfall. The prevalent opinion is that it bore the inscription Dei merito, translated as Dieu le mérite, which became corrupted into Dieu-Lumière. Under Louis XI. it certainly figures as Di Merito.
[427] A curious old engraving copied from an ancient tapestry represents the entry of the royal procession into Reims through the Porte Dieu-Lumière. Joan of Arc, beside the king and in company with the Dukes of Bourbon and Alençon, bears the banner of France; whilst her father and mother are seen arriving with the king’s baggage by another road.
[428] A.D. 499.
[429] Victor Fievet’s Histoire d’Epernay.
[430] M. A. Nicaise’s Epernay et l’Abbaye de St. Martin.
[431] Ibid.
[432] Victor Fievet’s Histoire d’Epernay. In December 1540, when the eschevins fixed the ‘vinage,’ the queue of wine was valued at eight to nine livres.
[433] The partiality of Charles V. for the wine of Ay has been elsewhere spoken of. The vendangeoir mentioned was in existence in 1726.
[434] Victor Fievet’s Histoire d’Epernay.
[435] M. A. Nicaise’s Epernay et l’Abbaye de St. Martin.
[436] Ibid.
[437] The thoroughfare at Epernay known as the Rempart de la Tour Biron commemorates the above event.
[438] Victor Fievet’s Histoire d’Epernay.
M. Camille Blondiot’s Henri IV. au Siège d’Epernay.
[442] From the Extrait du Registre et Papiers des Assemblés du Peuple de la Ville d’Epernay, preserved in the MSS. of Bertin du Rocheret.
[443] Bertin du Rocheret’s MSS.
[444] Ibid.
[445] Mémoire concernant la Ville d’Epernay, by Maître François Stapart, notaire au bailliage, published in 1749.
[446] Max Sutaine’s Essai sur le Vin de Champagne.
[447] Arthur Young’s Travels in France in the Years 1787–8–9.
[448] Victor Fievet’s Histoire d’Epernay. In the list of expenses incurred on the passage of Louis XVI. and his family, four hundred livres are set down to ‘the Sieur Memmie Cousin, innkeeper and merchant at Epernay, for the dinner of the king, the queen, and the royal family, as well as for an indemnity for the furniture broken at the said Cousin’s.’
As regards the price of the wines of the River during the Revolutionary epoch, an old account-book of Messrs. Moët & Chandon shows that in 1797 the firm paid for the white wine of Epernay and Avize 200 francs, for that of Chouilly 180 francs, and for that of Pierry and Cramant 150 francs per pièce; whilst that of Ay cost from 565 to 600 francs the queue. Bottles in 1790 only cost 16 livres 10 sols the hundred.
[449] The Clos St. Pierre is now the property of M. Charles Porquet, and the ancient seignorial residence of the monks of St. Pierre, at Pierry, is occupied by M. Papelart. Both these gentlemen are wine-merchants.
[450] Cazotte, writing in October 1791, speaks of the village as peopled with ‘gros propriétaires;’ and in November, that it had ‘thirty-two households of well-to-do people.’ Amongst its inhabitants were the Marquis Tirant de Flavigny, Dubois de Livry, Quatresols de la Motte, De Lastre d’Aubigny, De Lantage, &c., most of whose residences are still extant. In October 1792 several accusations were made against soldiers for picking and eating grapes in the vineyards of Pierry and Moussy, belonging to Cazotte, De la Motte, De Lantage, D’Aubigny, &c.
[451] Part of it now serves as the ‘maison communale’ and school-house of the village.
[452] Arrested at Pierry in August 1792, in consequence of the discovery, on the sacking of the Tuileries, of a new plan of escape for the royal family, sent by him to his friend Ponteau, secretary of the Civil List, Cazotte was brought to Paris and immured, in company with his daughter Elizabeth, in the prison of the Abbaye. Arraigned before the self-constituted tribunal presided over by the butcher Maillard, on the night of the 3d September, the fatal words ‘To La Force,’ equivalent to a sentence of death, were pronounced; and Cazotte was about to fall beneath the sabres already raised against him, when Elizabeth covered his body with her own, and by her heroic appeals induced the assassins to forego their prey. She even had the courage to drink with them to the Republic, and with her father was escorted home in triumph. A few days later, however, he was rearrested, condemned to death by the Revolutionary Tribunal, and on the 25th September ascended the scaffold, from whence he cried with a firm voice to the multitude, ‘I die as I have lived, faithful to God and my king.’
Under date of the 10 Prairial An II. (1793), the citizen Bourbon was appointed by the municipality of Pierry to cultivate the vineyards ‘du gillotiné (sic) Cazotte.’
[453] In 1775 the Abbot of Hautvillers, as décimateur of Pierry, claimed to take tithe of a fortieth of all wines in the cellars of the village. This claim being rejected by the baillage of Epernay in 1777, he appealed to the Parliament of Paris. Cazotte undertook the case of his fellow-proprietors, pleading that the abbey, which, according to strict law, was bound to take the tithe in the shape of grapes left at the foot of each vine, had long since replaced this by a monetary commutation; and that the inhabitants of Pierry, like the other wine-growers of the Champagne, being ‘obliged, in order to obtain perfection in their wines, to mix the grapes of several crus and different tithings, it would be impossible to tithe the wine itself.’ He also argued that the question had been settled by a decision on the same point in favour of the inhabitants of Ay and Dizy. However, the monks obtained a decree from parliament authorising them to take the fortieth of the vintage a month after the wines had been barrelled, unless the wine-growers preferred ‘to pay the tithe at the wine-press, in form of the fortieth load of grapes free from all mixture.’ The inhabitants appealed in 1780, pleading the impossibility of this plan of tithing at the press, on account of the expense and of the difficulty of sorting out the grapes from those brought from Moussy, Vinay, Monthelon, Cuis, Epernay, and other districts in which they had also vineyards. The Revolution cut the Gordian knot of this affair, which really arose from the wish of the monks to hinder as much as possible that plan of mixing grapes from different sources, to which the perfection of their own wine was due.
[454] In January 1790 the inhabitants of Pierry unanimously elected Cazotte their first mayor under the new régime. A decree signed by him in this capacity, and dated April 11, 1790, fixes the price for a day’s work in the vineyards at 12 sols. In 1793 the municipality of the adjoining district of Moussy fixed the day’s hire of the vintager at 25 sous, of horses employed in the vintage at 7 livres 10 sous, and of asses at 5 livres. As regards the price of the local cru, amongst the items of the accounts of the syndic of Moussy for the years 1787–8 is the following: ‘For thirteen bottles of stringed wine (vin fisselé) sent to Paris to the procureur of the community (Failly lawsuit), 13 livres.’ The community were then engaged in a lawsuit with the Count de Failly respecting a wood. During the Revolutionary epoch it was decreed by the municipality of Pierry that a vineyard known as les Rennes should, on account of the resemblance to les Reines, be in future styled les Sans-culottes. It has since resumed its old name.
[455] The story of Cazotte prophesying not only his own fate, but that of the king and queen, Condorcet, Bailly, Malesherbes, Nicolai, the Duchess de Grammont, and others who perished during the Terror, at a dinner given at an Academician’s in 1788, has been proved to be a mere invention on the part of La Harpe. Nevertheless there seems but little doubt that he distinctly foresaw many coming evils; and a native of Pierry, M. Armand Bourgeois, asserts that his maternal grandfather was one day at Cazotte’s house in the village, when the entire company were completely upset by their host’s prophecies of a coming revolution.
[456] P. Jannet’s Recueil des Poésies françaises des 15me et 16me Siècles.
[457] Louis Perrier’s Mémoire sur le Vin de Champagne.
[458] St. Evremond’s Letters, &c. (London, 1714).
[459] Max Sutaine’s Essai sur le Vin de Champagne.
[460] Bertin du Rocheret’s MSS. Histoire d’Epernay.
The Adrien mentioned in the second verse was Pope Adrian VI., who had been the Emperor’s preceptor, and who by his influence obtained the tiara on the death of Leo X. Unlike his predecessor, he was very simple in his habits.
[462] Maison Rustique, edition of 1574.
[463] Louis Perrier’s Mémoire sur le Vin de Champagne.
[464] An allusion to the curse pronounced by St. Tresain against the men of Ay.
[465] Maison Rustique (1582), translated by Richard Surflet (London, 1600).
[466] Ibid.
[467] Ibid.
[468] Paulmier’s treatise, De Vino et Pomaceo (1588).
[469] Maison Rustique (1582).
[470] Legrand d’Aussy’s Vie privée des Français.
[471] Louis Perrier’s Mémoire sur le Vin de Champagne.
[472] Recueil des Poésies latines et françaises sur le Vin de Champagne (Paris, 1712). Gonesse, a village of the department of Seine-et-Oise, about ten miles to the north of Paris, had a high reputation for its bread for several centuries.
Published in the Mercure of January 1728. Henry was accustomed to speak of the Présidente as his ‘belle hôtesse.’
[474] Circa 1590.
[475] Théâtre de l’Agriculture et Mesnage des Champs (1600).
[476] Published at Orleans, 1605. As regards the price of the newly-made wine of Ay at this epoch, Jehan Pussot says that, in 1604, it fetched from 25 to 45 livres; in 1605, from 60 livres upwards; and in 1609, from 100 to 120 livres, at the epoch of the vintage.
[477] Chaulieu says that St. Evremond
Tocane being usually made of the wine of Ay.
[478] St. Evremond’s Works (London, 1714).
[480] Arthur Young’s Travels in France in the Years 1787–8–9.
CHAMPAGNE.