“I perceive with pleasure,” he very politely replied, “that I have not lost anything by waiting; it displays great taste and originality, and possesses the seal of innovation.

“Allow me to take off the cover.”

“Ah! what is the use of those divisions, or compartments?”[29]

“The Chinese, as I have been informed by several celebrated travellers, amongst which your great diplomatist, Sir Henry Pottinger (to whom I had lately the honour of being introduced, upon the occasion of his visit to the Club), in viewing the dish, certified what I had previously heard from several illustrious men—— By the by, he has honoured me by subscribing for a set of them—here is my album, and see, there is his autograph:

—for four pagodatique entrée dishes; this completes the service for the present, but in a short time a complete service for first and second course can be easily manufactured at a reasonable price. But to return to the subject. I was telling you that those gentlemen had informed me that the Chinese have, upon their tables at their banquets, a profusion of fowls, and birds of all kinds, served with sauce or gravy, a plate being placed before each guest, similar to the European fashion, surrounded by three or four small saucers, each containing different ingredients, spices, and pickles, suited to the dish they partake of; each person takes a wing or fillet, that being the only part they consider eatable. They then cut it in small pieces, on their plates, and dip them into the different sauces, until they produce a favorite seasoning to their taste. It might not be to either yours or mine, but for all that, I do not blame them.”

“‘Pon my word, it is very curious and clever; by this mode your plate is free from incumbrance, a fault with which I always reproach our nation.”

“I have frequently heard of a ‘Potage aux nids d’oiseaux,’ we call it in English, birds’-nest soup; it is said to be of the most astonishing delicate substance.”

“I shall shortly have the pleasure of entertaining you upon that subject; we will now return to our new ‘plat d’entrée.’”

Drawn by the frivolous fancy of fashion and folly of the times; why, I thought, should not I endeavour to make myself as ridiculous as any other person; I therefore submitted to the proprietor of a large china establishment a drawing, from which he executed with great taste this pagodatique table ornament.

“The several advantages which it possesses are easily understood, one entrée may have four different sauces, four entrées the varieties of sixteen, or of eight, by putting the sauce double, I mean two compartments filled with the same sauce, and preserve the entrée as the Chinese do, au naturel. To add to its great variety, small dinners (très recherchés) can be served upon it for one or two persons, the sight of a small and delicate entrée will sometimes invite the appetite, where a large entrée approaches too near vulgarity, and would produce a contrary effect; to know how to live an Epicurean in desire, is a great art, but so true it is, that if all our wishes were accomplished life would be an enormous burthen; and nothing can effect this important object but the delicacy and lightness of a well-conceived dish. This once obtained, a first-rate epicure will not only eat with a greater degree of zest and stimulation, but he will, at the same time, enjoy the pleasurable sensations arising from his keen and unerring discernment, that the sister twins, art and science, have been busily employed in administering to his taste. I must also observe, that, from his profound knowledge of the rules of life, he will always bear in mind that ‘moderation is the goddess of health.’”

“Very true! very true!”

“For instance, a real epicure is well aware, and can appreciate that he owes all the delights and pleasures of his existence to a good state of health; for without it no one can enjoy the pleasures of life, and, still less, the pleasure of dégustation; so true is this, that even the company of our best and beloved friends, the possession of riches and honours, the greatest celebrity and glory, lose their charms where health is compromised; the most delicate food loses its zest, the most melodious chords of music, and the greatest optical delights are evanescent, the beauties of nature are lost, and everything is without charm, even the sun—yes, that sun itself, which pours life upon creation, importunes our wretched frame with his torrent of light and universal splendour; which proves that we ought profoundly to study those great agents of nature which preside over our organic movements. Allowing us to use with moderation what our senses desire, is far from a meagre or redoubtable privation for the illustrious disciples of Epicurus; excess and want of experience have often been the cause of man falling into the greatest errors, which have been most pernicious to his health. From the celestial vault the indefinable power desires to guide us safely, and by following his divine lesson we shall not only enjoy extreme happiness, but obey the dictates of our great and wise Creator.”

“I perfectly understand your argument, and have often recognised the profound truth of it. If it is not asking too much, would you be so kind as to name a few entrées you would recommend for these compartments, and sufficient dinner for one or two ladies?”

“It will give me much pleasure to do so, I will mention several: for instance, if a dinner for two persons, I would serve in the centre, filets de sole à la Hollandaise, and in the four corners

Deux Cotelettes d’Agneau aux Pois,
Un Filet de Volaille, piqué à la Purée de Champignons,
Deux Quenelles de Lapereaux aux Truffes,
Demi Perdreaux en Salmi.


Escalopes de Ris de Veau aux Pointes d’Asperges,
Quatre Rissoles aux Huîtres.
In the centre.       Poulet printanier piqué aux Cressons,
Deux Cotelettes de Mouton à la Réforme,
Blanquette de Filets de Volaille aux Truffes.

Deux Filets de Grouse à la Bohémienne,
Deux Escalopes de Filet de Bœuf, sauce poivrade.
Centre.       One slice of Salmon en Matelote,
Deux Croquettes de Volaille, à la Purée de Foie Gras,
Un Ris de Veau piqué à la Financière.

Deux Grenadins de Veau à la Palestine,
Deux Boudins de Volaille à la Richelieu.
Centre.       Roast Duckling,
Deux Eperlans frits à la Boulangère,
Salmi de Bécasse.

Deux Ris d’Agneau piqué à la Purée de Choufleurs.
Une Caille aux Feuilles de Vigne.
Centre.       A slice of Turbot à la Mazarine,
Un Ailleron et Filet de Volaille à la Marengo,
Deux Rissolettes à la Pompadour.

“I can also give you a few plainer bills of fare for the same.

Pommes de Terre à la Maître d’Hôtel,
Carbonade de Mouton à la Provençale.
Centre.       Small Rumpsteak,
Un Choufleur, sauce au beurre,
Un Pigeonneau à la Jardinière.

Choux de Bruxelles à la Crème,
Minced Veal and two poached Eggs.
Centre.       Half a broiled Fowl with gravy,
Pomme de Terre à la Hollandaise,
Un Filet de Bœuf, sauce tomate.

Deux Cotelettes de Mouton à la Soubise,
Quatre Jérusalem Artichauts à la Béchamel.
Centre.       Slice of Cod and Oyster sauce,
Minced Beef, sauce piquante,
Pomme de Terre frite.

Stewed Oysters,
Two Potatoes plain boiled.
Centre.       Stewed Rabbit and Onion sauce,
Two Escalopes of Veal and Ham,
Un Brocoli, sauce au beurre.

THE CELESTIAL AND TERRESTRIAL CREAM OF GREAT BRITAIN.

Procure, if possible, the antique Vase of the Roman Capitol; the Cup of Hebe; the Strength of Hercules; and the Power of Jupiter;

Then proceed as follows:

Have ready the chaste Vase (on the glittering rim of which three doves are resting in peace), and in it deposit a smile from the Duchess of Sutherland, from which Terrestrial Déesse it will be most graceful; then add a Lesson from the Duchess of Northumberland; the Happy Remembrance of Lady Byron; an Invitation from the Marchioness of Exeter; a Walk in the Fairy Palace of the Duchess of Buckingham; an Honour of the Marchioness of Douro; a Sketch from Lady Westmorland; Lady Chesterfield’s Conversation; the Deportment of the Marchioness of Aylesbury; the Affability of Lady Marcus Hill; some Romances of Mrs. Norton; A Mite of Gold from Miss Coutts; A Royal Dress from the Duchess of Buccleugh; a Reception from the Duchess of Leinster; a Fragment of the Works of Lady Blessington; a Ministerial Secret from Lady Peel; a Gift from the Duchess of Bedford; an Interview with Madame de Bunsen; a Diplomatic Reminiscence from the Marchioness of Clanricarde; an Autocratic Thought from the Baroness Brunow; a Reflection from Lady John Russell; an Amiable Word from Lady Wilton; the Protection of the Countess de St. Aulaire; a Seraphic Strain from Lady Essex; a Poetical Gift of the Baroness de la Calabrala; a Welcome from Lady Alice Peel; the Sylph-like Form of the Marchioness of Abercorn; a Soirée of the Duchess of Beaufort; a Reverence of the Viscountess Jocelyn; and the Goodwill of Lady Palmerston.

Season with the Piquante Observation of the Marchioness of Londonderry; the Stately Mien of the Countess of Jersey; the Trésor of the Baroness Rothchild; the Noble Devotion of Lady Sale; the Knowledge of the Fine Arts of the Marchioness of Lansdowne; the Charity of the Lady De Grey: a Criticism from the Viscountess of Melville:—with a Musical Accompaniment from the whole; and Portraits of all these Ladies taken from the Book of Celebrated Beauties.

Amalgamate scientifically; and should you find this Appareil, (which is without a parallel,) does not mix well, do not regard the expense for the completion of a dish worthy of the Gods!

Endeavour to procure, no matter at what price, a Virtuous Maxim from the Book of Education of Her Royal Highness the Duchess of Kent; a Kiss from the Infant Princess Alice; an Innocent Trick of the Princess Royal; a Benevolent Visit from the Duchess of Gloucester; a Maternal Sentiment of Her Royal Highness the Duchess of Cambridge; a Compliment from the Princess Augusta de Mecklenbourg; the future Hopes of the Young Princess Mary;——

And the Munificence of Her Majesty Queen Adelaide.

Cover the Vase with the Reign of Her Most Gracious Majesty, and let it simmer for half a century, or more, if possible, over a Fire of Immortal Roses.

Then uncover, with the greatest care and precision, this Mysterious Vase; garnish the top with the Aurora of a Spring Morning; several Rays of the Sun of France; the Serenity of an Italian Sky; and the Universal Appreciation of the Peace of Europe.

Add a few Beams of the Aurora Borealis; sprinkle over with the Virgin Snow of Mont Blanc; glaze with an Eruption of Mount Vesuvius; cause the Star of the Shepherd to dart over it; and remove, as quickly as possible, this chef-d’œuvre of the nineteenth century from the Volcanic District.

Then fill Hebe’s Enchanted Cup with a religious Balm, and with it surround this mighty Cream of Immortality.

Terminate with the Silvery Light of the Pale Queen of Night, without disturbing a Ray of the Brilliancy of the brightest Queen of the Day.

TABLE OF CONTENTS.