The author, having remained to complete the works at the Pentland Skerries, and to see the house lighted, sailed from Orkney on the 9th of October, in the sloop Elizabeth of Stromness. On the following day, the vessel got within three miles of Kinnaird Head Light-house, in Aberdeenshire; but the wind having suddenly shifted to the south-east, Mr Sinclair, the master, with much attention and kindness, landed the author, who continued his journey to Edinburgh by land. A very different fate, however, awaited his shipmates; for the Elizabeth having put back to Cromarty Roads, was afterwards driven to Orkney, and ultimately lost, when all on board perished.
In the affairs connected with the erection of light-houses in Orkney, Mr Balfour of Elwick, and Mr Riddoch, collector of the customs at Kirkwall, having respectively taken much friendly interest and trouble in the advancement of the Light-house works in the Orkney islands, the Commissioners of the Light-houses presented a small piece of plate to each of these gentlemen, with a suitable inscription, in testimony of the services they had thus rendered to the public.
Some inconveniency having been experienced in conducting the business of the Light-house Board, in consequence of its not being an incorporated body, and not having a common seal, particularly in the holding of stock and other property, in laying out and investing the surplus funds arising from the light-house duties, application was made to Parliament, and an act passed in 1798, 38th Geo. III. c. 57. erecting the Commissioners into a Board or Body-politic, by the name of “The Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses;” and under that title to have perpetual succession, and hold a common seal.
After the completion of these two light-houses on the Pentland Skerries in 1794, a period of ten years elapsed before the erection of any additional light-house was undertaken on the coast of Scotland. This delay was rendered necessary, chiefly on account of the necessity of extending the accommodation of the light-keepers at the different stations,—in making landing places and roads,—enclosing grounds,—and, in short, putting the whole establishment of the light-houses into a more complete and finished state.
In the mean time, several propositions for new light-houses were brought under the notice of the Commissioners. In the year 1797, for example, the late Mr Dempster of Dunnichen proposed the erection of a light-house as a direction for the entrance of Cromarty Firth , one of the principal inlets for shipping on the eastern coast of Great Britain. Mr Dempster also suggested, in connection with this, that a Beacon should be erected, and a floating buoy moored, to point out the dangerous channel of Dornoch Firth , which is too often fatally mistaken for the entrance to Cromarty Firth . The proposition of a beacon and buoy for Dornoch, was considered by the Commissioners as not strictly in the high seas, and therefore not properly belonging to the concerns of the Board, and, together with the light-house, were delayed for the present, that attention might be paid to more urgent demands on other parts of the coast.
Notwithstanding the benefit derived from the erection of Kinnaird Head light-house, shipwrecks were still occurring on a dangerous reef of rocks called Rattray Brigs, situate about 12 miles southward of Kinnaird Head, and 6 miles north of Peterhead. In the year 1798, petitions were presented to the Commissioners from certain merchants and traders, setting forth, that the light-house upon Kinnaird Head would be much more beneficial to shipping, were it removed to Rattray Head. This matter was remitted to the author to report upon, who accordingly made a survey of this part of the coast. After maturely considering the subject, it was deemed advisable to decline the removal of the light-house from Kinnaird Head, which was found to be extremely useful for directing ships into the Moray and Cromarty Friths, and also to vessels making the land from the northward. Although it might not, perhaps, be so useful to coasters bound from the south, yet the Commissioners found, that it would be better, under all circumstances, to preserve Kinnaird Head as a light-house station, and, at some future period, to erect an additional light upon this important part of the coast, at or near Peterhead, in a position calculated to be useful as a guide for the sunken reef of Rattray Brigs, and also for the south-eastern shores of Aberdeenshire.
Among the several applications brought before the Board for additional light-houses, something still appeared to be necessary for averting the misfortunes which were annually happening on the low shores of the Northern Isles of Orkney. It had now been found, by the experience of about twelve years, that the light-house of North Ronaldsay was not calculated to prevent the numerous wrecks on the islands of Sanday and Stronsay. In the year 1796, when the author was on his annual visit to the Northern Light-houses, he was struck at seeing the wreck of three homeward-bound ships upon the island of Sanday, though situate only about eight miles southward of the light-house of North Ronaldsay. Again, in 1797, he found one wrecked ship on Sanday; but in 1798 he saw the remains of no fewer than five vessels upon that fatal island; and, in the month of December 1799, two of the numerous vessels which were driven from Yarmouth Roads in a dreadful gale of wind at south-east, were also wrecked there. The author having laid this continued and alarming state of things before the Light-house Board, in his annual report of 1801, it was resolved, that a beacon or tower of masonry should be erected upon the Start Point or eastern extremity of the low shores of the island of Sanday; the building to be constructed in such a manner that it might, if found necessary, be converted into a light-house.
In the year 1802, the author sailed on his annual voyage to the Northern Light-houses so early as the 14th of April, in the Pharos of Leith, carrying with him a foreman and sixteen artificers, to commence the works of the Start Point Tower. After rather a boisterous passage, the vessel reached Orkney in six days, and, at this advanced period of the season, these Islands were found covered to the depth of six inches with snow. This, at any time, is rather uncommon in Orkney; but such had been the severity of the season in the northern regions, that a flock of wild swans which, in severe winters, visit this country, were still seen in considerable numbers upon the fresh-water lakes of Sanday. These large birds are supposed to migrate from Iceland, but are rarely seen here later than the month of March, so that their appearance in the latter end of the month of April, was considered by the Orcadians as a mark of a very severe and long-continued winter in the higher latitudes.
The weather continued to be so extremely boisterous here, that it was the middle of the month of May before a sufficient stock of materials was laid down for commencing the building at the Start Point. A wish having been expressed by the workmen, to have the foundation-stone of the Beacon laid with masonic ceremony; and considering the dreary prospect which the artificers had before them, the author was the more willing to embrace so fair an opportunity of affording them the enjoyment of a little convivial happiness. The influx of so many strangers to the island of Sanday for this work, and the novelty of the intended ceremony, made the news soon find its way to every house. Preparations were accordingly made;—the year of our Lord 1802, was cut upon the foundation-stone, in which a hole was perforated for depositing a glass phial, containing a small parchment scroll, setting forth the intention of the building; the official constitution of the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses; and the name of their Engineer. It also contained several of the current coins of George III. in gold, silver, and copper. The day fixed for the ceremony was the 15th of May. The weather was dry and tolerably agreeable, though cold, with snow upon the ground; the thermometer by Fahrenheit’s scale indicating 35° in the shade at noon. A number of the principal inhabitants, and a crowd of cottagers assembled. Things being arranged for the ceremony, the author, assisted by Mr James Cleghorn, foreman for the works, applied the square and plummet-level to the foundation-stone, in compliance with the ancient custom of the craft. The phial was then deposited in the cavity prepared for it in the stone, and carefully covered up with sand, when the masonic ceremony concluded in the usual manner. The Reverend Walter Traill, minister of the parish, who obligingly attended on this occasion, now stood forward, and, after a most impressive prayer, imploring the blessing of heaven upon the intended purposes of the building, delivered an address, which, from the singularity of the subject, and the excellency of the matter, shall here be inserted.
“This moment is auspicious. The foundation-stone is laid of a building of incalculable value;—a work of use, not of luxury. Pyramids were erected by the pride of kings, to perpetuate the memory of men, whose ambition enslaved and desolated the world. But it is the benevolent intention of our Government, on this spot to erect a tower, not to exhaust, but to increase the wealth, and protect the commerce of this happy kingdom.—To the goodness of God, in the first place, we are indebted for a degree of prosperity unknown to other nations. In the next place, we owe our happiness to our insular situation, and attention to maritime affairs. Faction and civil war have, at this period, laid waste the fairest countries of Europe; while peace has flourished within our walls. Agriculture, commerce, and their kindred arts, have prospered in our land. British oak hath triumphed; victory hath been attached to the British flag; and British fleets have ridden triumphant on the wings of the wind.—Consider the great national objects for which this building will be erected. To protect commerce, and to guard the lives of those intrepid men who for us cheerfully brave the fury of the waves, and the rage of battle. The mariner, when he returns to the embraces of his wife and children, after ascribing praise to the Great Giver of safety, shall bless the friendly light which guided him over the deep, and recommend to the protection of heaven, those who urged, who planned, and who executed the work.—This day shall be remembered with gratitude. It shall be recorded, that at the beginning of a new century, the pious care of Government was extended to this remote island. Those rocks, so fatal to the most brave and honourable part of the community, shall lose their terror, and safety and life shall spring from danger and death.—Even you, my friends, who are employed in the execution of this work, are objects of regard and gratitude. You have, for a season, left the society of your families and friends, to perform a work of high interest to your country and to mankind. I am confident, that you will act, in all respects, so as to deserve and obtain the esteem of the people who now surround you. I hope that they will discharge to you every duty of Christian hospitality, and that you will have no occasion to feel that you are strangers in a strange land.—It becomes us to remember, that all the affairs of men are dependent on Providence. We may exert talents and industry, but God only can bless our exertions with success. Let our trust be in him. Let us humbly hope that he will bless this day and this undertaking. Through his aid, may there arise from this spot, a tower of safety and protection to the mariner of every tongue and nation.”
The whole of this scene was very impressive; and the plain, decent, and respectable appearance of the people collected on the occasion, was none of the least interesting parts of it.
Having now got the works at the Start Point of Sanday fairly commenced, and some progress made in opening the quarries, the author left the Orkney Islands, and continued his voyage westward to the other Light-houses on the coast. Every thing having succeeded well at the Start Point, the Beacon was finished in the month of September. It was terminated at the height of 100 feet above the medium level of the sea, with a circular ball of masonry measuring fifteen feet in circumference.—But this tower having been afterwards converted into a light-house, it seems to be unnecessary here to enter into a more particular specification of the building.
Much inconveniency had been experienced, and many fatal accidents had occurred, in the Firth of Forth, from the want of a light to direct ships past the island of Inchkeith into the Roads of Leith. In the course of the winter of 1801, from this cause, a very severe misfortune happened at the rocks lying off Kinghornness, on the Fifeshire coast, by the loss of the smack Aberdeen, Freeman, master, one of the traders bound from Aberdeen to London. This vessel had been put up the Firth in a storm, loaded with a general cargo, which was valued at upwards of L. 10,000, and had on board 13 passengers, besides the ship’s crew, all of whom perished, excepting the master, the mate, and a lady. So very distressing an accident, with other instances of a similar nature, produced a strong sensation with the public. It was also found, that vessels which, by the direction of the light of May, had entered the Firth of Forth in the course of a long winter night, could not yet venture to hold on their course, up the Firth , owing to the difficulty of passing the island of Inchkeith, and the foul and rocky ground in its neighbourhood. The mariner was thus obliged to lie off and on in this narrow sea, without being able to run for the anchorage of Leith Roads till day-light: but, before morning, the wind perhaps had shifted; and, instead of being in a safe anchorage, he was too often driven to sea. The author has, indeed, known of a ship in this situation, which drifted before the wind even to the coast of Norway.
It was from considerations of this kind that an application was brought forward by the Corporation of the Trinity House of Leith, for the erection of a light-house upon Inchkeith; and the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses, also viewing Leith Roads as a naval station and rendezvous for his Majesty’s ships on the North Sea station, resolved upon the propriety and expediency of this measure in the year 1802. Various difficulties occurred about procuring the ground necessary for this establishment, not indeed with the noble proprietor of the island, the Duke of Buccleuch, who forthwith ordered every facility to be given to the work; but time was lost in arranging matters with his Grace’s agent. It was not, therefore, till the summer of the year 1803, that the building on Inchkeith commenced, and the masonry of the light-house was not ready for the light-room till the following year, when the light was exhibited on the 1st day of September 1804. Its position is described as follows:
“The Light-house erected on the island of Inchkeith, situate in the Firth of Forth and county of Mid-Lothian, in North Lat. 56° 2´, and Long. 3° 8´. west of London, is elevated 220 feet above the medium level of the sea, of which height the building forms 45 feet. The light is from oil with reflectors, and will be seen from every point of the compass as a Stationary light” (since altered to a Revolving light, as shall be afterwards noticed). “From the light-house Ely-ness bears, by compass, E. NE., distant 16 miles; Light of May E. ½ N., distant 23 miles; Fidra Island E. by S., distant 14 miles; Craig Waugh Rock SE. by S. ½ S., distant 4¾ miles; Leith-Harbour Light SW. ¼ S., distant 3½ miles; Gunnet Rock W., distant 1½ mile; Ox-Scares W. by N. ½ N., distant 4½ miles; Inchcolm W. NW. ¼ N., distant 6½ miles; Pettycur Light N. NW. ¼ N., distant 2½ miles; Kinghorn-ness N. NW. ¾ N. distant 2¼ miles.”
This light-house was originally proposed to have been made a double or leading light, to guide ships up the Firth , and especially past the dangerous rock called the Ox-Scares, to the anchorage above Queensferry; but it was thought advisable to erect a light, in the first instance, upon the top of the island, and to defer the erection of a lower or western light till the effect of a single light should be tried. Such, however, appears to have been the benefit of the light on the top of the island, together with a cast-iron Beacon, which, at this time, was erected on the Ox-Scares, that the want of a second light-house on Inchkeith does not seem to have been much felt.
By the existing acts of Parliament, the light-house Board is entitled to take the full duties of three halfpence per ton, from the local trade of the Firth of Forth, for the light of Inchkeith, instead of which, only one halfpenny per ton is exacted from such vessels as are not liable to the duty, in consequence of passing some other of the Northern Light-houses. The great utility of this light-house, and the equitable and liberal manner in which these duties are exacted, gave much satisfaction to the maritime and commercial interests of the country.
It may here be proper to observe, that the erection of Inchkeith Light-house, forms a new era in the works of the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses; which, as formerly observed, had been necessarily executed on the smallest, plainest and most simple plan that could be devised, and with such materials as could be easily transported, and most speedily erected, so as to meet the urgent calls of shipping, and answer the very limited state of the funds. But from the thriving condition of the trade of the country, the yearly duties which, in 1790, amounted only to L. 1477:5:1; in the year 1802 encreased to L. 4386:7:5. It was, therefore, considered advisable, from its being ultimately more economical, to erect and finish the several works of the light-house Board in the most substantial manner, and more like the buildings of a permanent National Establishment.
The light-house of Inchkeith having been erected before the late Mr Smith, the author’s predecessor, had retired from the situation of Engineer for the Northern Light-houses, and being the first of the light-houses erected upon the coast of Scotland on the recently improved principles, it is thought proper to give a plan and elevation of the house and offices, in one of the plates of this work, as a specimen of what is considered a very complete light-house establishment. It may also be noticed here, that the elevation of the light-house tower bears a tablet with the following inscription:—“For the direction of Mariners, and for the benefit of Commerce, this Light-house was erected by order of the Commissioners of the Northern Light-houses. It was founded on the 18th day of May, in the year 1803, and lighted on the 1st of September 1804. Thomas Smith, Engineer.”
As part of the establishment at Inchkeith, a guard-room is provided for pilots. In the event also of shipwreck upon the coast, in the neighbourhood of any of the light-house stations, from the more extended state of the buildings, the unfortunate seamen are not only directed to be lodged in the best manner that the circumstances of the case will admit, but, in necessitous cases, ship-wrecked mariners have even been allowed a sum of money by the Light-house Board, to clothe and carry them to their respective homes. In this way, it has not unfrequently fallen to the lot of the keepers of the Northern Light-houses, to save the lives of perishing seamen, to succour many poor fishermen and pilots, as well as the half starved and unlucky individuals of water parties, when driven by stress of weather to these lone places of abode, for safety and shelter. In these varied forms, it will not be too much to suppose, that the practice of protecting the navigator in distress, which is said to have formed a chief part of the design of the Fire Towers and Nautical Colleges of the ancients, is thus in some measure restored.
LIST OF WRECKS on the contiguous islands of North Ronaldsay, Sanday and Stronsay, during a period of Twelve Years, immediately after the erection of North Ronaldsay Light-house, in 1789.
| Year. | Voyage. | Cargo. | Tonnage. | Supposed Value of Ship and Cargo. |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1789. | Norway to America, | Spirits, &c. | 150 | L. 3500 0 0 |
| 1790. | Hamburgh to do. | Cordage, &c. | 100 | 2800 0 0 |
| 1792. | Norway to Wales, | Wood and Iron, | 90 | 1100 0 0 |
| —— | Sweden to Liverpool, | Grain, | 120 | 3100 0 0 |
| —— | Do. to Greenock, | Timber, | 400 | 3400 0 0 |
| 1793. | Norway to Spain, | Fish and Oil, | 100 | 2000 0 0 |
| —— | Copenhagen to Santa Cruz, | Silks, &c. | 250 | 35,000 0 0 |
| 1794. | Copenhagen to Surinam, | Muslins, &c. | 250 | 20,000 0 0 |
| —— | Do. to Dundee, | Flax, &c. | 90 | 2000 0 0 |
| 1795. | Do. to America, | Cloth, &c. | 300 | 12,200 0 0 |
| 1796. | Do. to Liverpool, | Timber, | 250 | 2500 0 0 |
| —— | Do. to Whitehaven, | Timber, | 150 | 1300 0 0 |
| —— | Liverpool to Ostend, | Wine and Rum, | 400 | 15,300 0 0 |
| 1797. | Baltic to Liverpool, | Grain, | 120 | 3000 0 0 |
| 1798. | Sweden to Hull, | Timber and Iron, | 200 | 2500 0 0 |
| —— | Norway to Liverpool. | Timber, | 200 | 1800 0 0 |
| —— | Do. to America, | Cloth, &c. | 200 | 5000 0 0 |
| —— | Altona to Do. | Spirits and Cloth, | 450 | 18,000 0 0 |
| —— | London to Gibraltar, | Stores, | 300 | 5000 0 0 |
| 1799. | Do. to Dublin, | Staves, | 150 | 2200 0 0 |
| 1800. | Hamburgh to America, | Cambric and Linen, | 200 | 45,000 0 0 |
| —— | Dantzic to Liverpool, | Timber, | 900 | 10,000 0 0 |
| 22 vessels wrecked in 12 years, supposed value | L. 196,400 0 0 | |||
On this subject, however, the author was instructed to take the opinion of persons acquainted with the navigation of these seas. Accordingly, when on his annual voyage to the Northern Light-houses, he submitted the subject to the consideration of Mr William Ellis, Commander of the Ross Revenue Cutter, who had then been cruising for several months off these islands, by order of Government, for intelligence relative to the motions of the Dutch fleet, which then threatened to attempt a landing on the Western Coast of Ireland. It was also submitted to Mr Riddoch, Collector, and Mr Manson, Comptroller of the Customs, at Kirkwall; to Mr John Traill, Mr Fotheringham, and Mr Strang of Sanday; and to the ship-masters of Kirkwall and Stromness. These gentlemen all united in opinion as to the superior usefulness of a light upon the island of Sanday.
This measure having been resolved on by the Board, the plans were remitted, with powers to proceed, to Mr William Rae, (now Sir William Rae, Bart. Lord Advocate of Scotland,) who was then Sheriff of the county of Orkney. The works at the Start Point were accordingly commenced early in the summer of 1805; by the month of November the light-room was finished, and the light exhibited on the 1st day of January 1806. Intimation was at the same time given to the public, that the beacon or tower of masonry erected in the year 1803, upon the island of Sanday, having been found insufficient for preventing the numerous shipwrecks upon the low shores of that island, had been converted into a light-house.
The Start Point of Sanday is situate in the county of Orkney, in North Lat. 59° 20´, and Long. 2° 34´ west of London, from which North Ronaldsay light-house Tower bears by compass, N. NE. ½ E., distant 8 miles, and the Lamb Head of Stronsay SW., distant 15 miles. The light at the Start Point is from oil with reflectors, elevated 100 feet above the medium level of the sea, and is visible from all points of the compass, at the distance of 15 miles, in a favourable state of the atmosphere. To distinguish this light from the other lights on this coast, it is known to mariners as a Revolving light, without colour, exhibiting a brilliant light once in every minute, and becoming gradually less luminous; to a distant observer it totally disappears. In this manner, each periodic revolution of the reflector-frame, alternately shows a brilliant light, and a light becoming fainter and more obscure, until it be totally eclipsed.
The alteration of the Start Point beacon into a light-house, and the erection of houses for the light-keepers, were placed under the management of Mr George Peebles, an experienced mason, and executed with every possible attention. When the works were completed, he, and such of the artificers as had been retained, proceeded to Stromness on the mainland of Orkney, from whence they were most likely to get a passage to the southward. The party consisted of six in number; and Charles Peebles, the foreman’s brother, wishing to go directly to his native place, took his passage in a vessel bound from Stromness to Anstruther, while Mr George Peebles, and the remaining four men, embarked on board of a schooner, called the Traveller, Cruickshanks master, bound for Leith.
Some of the unfortunate crew and passengers attempted to swim ashore, but in the darkness of the night, they either lost their way, or were dashed upon the rocks by the surge of the sea; while those who retained hold of the rigging of the ship, being worn out with fatigue and the piercing coldness of the weather during a long winter night, died before morning,—when the shore presented the dreadful spectacle of the wreck of no fewer than five vessels, with many lifeless bodies, the mournful subjects of the care and pity of the islanders. In one of these wrecks, all on board were lost; and, in the Traveller, only the cabin-boy escaped. This poor boy, from whom these particulars were learned, had, for a time, been sheltered from the severity of the blast, by one of the crew, but being at length left alone, he clung to the top-mast, from which he was with great difficulty removed in the morning, when the storm had somewhat abated.
A very trifling circumstance prevented the vessel bound for Anstruther, from leaving Stromness along with the Traveller, so that Charles Peebles escaped this gale, and arrived with the sad tidings of the fate of his brother and companions. In Mr George Peebles, the light-house service lost a most active and faithful servant, whose next charge would have been at the operations of the Bell Rock light-house. From the peculiar circumstances of this case, the Commissioners were pleased to grant small annuities to the mother of the foreman, and also to the family of another of the sufferers.
In the prosecution of the plan of this introductory account of the Northern Light-houses, we may observe that the attention of the Commissioners was occupied with the erection of the Bell Rock Light-house, during the years 1807, 8, 9, and 10. But as the detail of the operations of these four years forms the chief object of this work, it is not necessary that they should be further noticed here. We therefore proceed to the next operations of the Board, in the order of time.
It having been considered superfluous to have two light-houses on this part of the coast, within 8 miles of each other, the Light-house Board resolved to extinguish North Ronaldsay light, and convert its tower into a sea-mark, or beacon without a light. It was accordingly intimated in the newspapers of the principal ports of the United kingdom that the light on the Island of North Ronaldsay, in Orkney, situated in North Lat. 59° 40´, Long. 2° 15´ west of London, would be discontinued, and cease to be lighted from and after the 1st day of June 1809; but that the Light-house Tower would be preserved as a Beacon on the coast, by the erection of a Circular Ball of masonry, measuring 8 feet in diameter, instead of a Light-room. This beacon bears from the revolving light on the Start Point of Sanday, N.NE., ½ E. by compass, distant 8 miles, which continues to be lighted as heretofore, the Start Point having been found the most centrical position for a light-house to warn the mariner of his approach to the low shores of the North Isles of Orkney.