28. Teachers of Bookkeeping.
In the catalogue of
Comer's Commercial College, Boston, we find the following statement:
"As an inducement to ladies to prepare themselves for
mercantile employments, a discount of twenty per cent. from the
terms for gentlemen is made, although the course of instruction is
precisely the same." Twelve free scholarships have been founded
in the institution for deserving cases of either sex. With all
large commercial schools is now connected a separate department
for ladies; and efforts are made by the principals to obtain
situations for their pupils as they leave school. A letter from
Misses McIntire and Kidder, Boston, states: "We have been
engaged in preparing ladies for bookkeepers, saleswomen, &c., for
the past ten years. It was at first difficult for ladies to obtain
such situations; but as those who did succeed gave entire satisfaction,
others were induced to give them a trial; and now they
are very generally employed in our retail stores, at prices varying
from four to eight dollars per week, and a few at a still
higher salary. The time required for a person who has received
a common English education, is from six weeks to three months.
The terms for the complete course in bookkeeping, which embraces
improvement in writing, with rapid methods of calculating
interest and averaging accounts, are $14; and for bookkeeping
only, $12; and three months' time is allowed. The chances
for obtaining employment are very favorable, as more situations
are opened to them every year. Each student is instructed
separately and assistance rendered in obtaining employment.
Bookkeepers are usually employed ten hours a day. The employment
is not so unhealthy as needlework. Women are superior
to men in faithfulness in the performance of duties." The
principal of a mercantile college in Brooklyn says he thinks
"many ladies might obtain employment as bookkeepers, if they
would only properly qualify themselves for the duties. He had
six or seven lady pupils that are now employed as bookkeepers
in New York. Their compensation depends on their abilities and
the amount of labor they have to perform. They are not so
well paid as male bookkeepers. Much depends on the kind of
friends a lady has to secure her a place. It is the same case
with a young man. If he acquires a reputation for integrity and
faithfulness, he may get even as much as $2,500; while one more
obscure and unknown may be as competent, but not able to command
more than one third as much. So, one may have to work
but a few hours; another, from eight in the morning until twelve
at night. Some have a great deal to do in some seasons, and
but little in others; while some are kept nearly equally busy all
the year." This gentleman charges $10 for instruction. Mr.
D., who teaches writing, bookkeeping, and arithmetic, in New
York, gives private instruction to ladies at his rooms. They are
comfortably fitted up. He charges for bookkeeping, practical
course of twenty lessons, $15; unlimited course, $25;—arithmetic,
commercial course of twenty lessons, $10; of sixty lessons,
$20. His charges for all branches required to prepare
pupils practically for business are, for one month, two or three
hours per day, $15; three months, $30; for twenty lessons in
writing, public room, $10; private room, $15. Mr. B., of the
firm of B. S. & Co., says a person of good abilities could learn
bookkeeping in one month, by spending most of the day at it.
His price for ladies is $25. It entitles them to an attendance at
one of their branch schools, of which there are eight in the
Northern and Western cities. They endeavor to secure places for
those who learn bookkeeping with them. They also assist their
pupils to open books when they have obtained situations. Millinery
establishments, trimming and fancy stores, &c., are the
kind that mostly employ women as bookkeepers. Many wives of
business men learn bookkeeping, that they may keep their husbands'
books.
29. Teachers of Gymnastics and Dancing.
Dancing,
calisthenics, and gymnastics furnish excellent exercise for
young people, and in many boarding and day schools for young
ladies gymnastics are now taught. A lady teacher of calisthenics
and gymnastics told me that in winter a fire is kept in the dressing
room, and in very cold weather the practising room is
warmed a little. Gymnastics are performed with apparatus.
Calisthenics are arm exercises. The terms of this teacher are $6
for one month, $15 for three months, and $20 for six months'
tuition. In New York and Philadelphia there are schools where
instruction is given to girls as well as boys in gymnastic exercises.
At one gymnasium in New York the terms are $16 a
year for tuition, $10 for six months, and $7 for three months.
At a ladies' gymnasium in Brooklyn, I was told by the instructress
that her prices for tuition are $4 a quarter in summer, giving
three lessons a week. A physician prescribes the kind and
amount of exercise necessary.
30. Teachers of Drawing and Painting.
There
is scarcely any branch of mechanical labor in which a knowledge
of drawing is not an advantage. Correct drawing is essential to
the success of an artist; but coloring is something very difficult
and desirable, particularly the coloring of the flesh. It is indispensable
to the portrait painter. A lady artist of some note
told me that artists do not ground themselves in drawing as they
should; that drawing tells almost the whole story of a picture:
coloring only gives beauty and adds strength. She thinks there
are many openings in the South and West for first-class teachers
of drawing and painting. Miss G. received a salary of $800, as
teacher of painting in the School of Arts in Baltimore. It is
folly for any one to devote herself to art as a career, unless she
has some genius and a fondness for it. Mrs. H., of Boston, the
wife of the sculptor, has supported her family by painting and
giving instruction in the art. Teachers in oil painting are well
compensated, if they have pupils enough to occupy all their
time. Prices vary in cities from fifty cents a lesson of one hour
to two dollars. Art classes have been formed, both in New
York and Philadelphia. Some artists receive pupils, but the
time required for instruction renders it objectionable to most.
Miss G. charges $15 a quarter of twenty-four lessons, two hours
each. In ordinary times, she gives but one hour's instruction at
a lesson. Miss J. charges $10 dollars for instruction in oriental
painting. Mrs. C. was profitably engaged, in Providence, in
teaching drawing and taking crayon portraits. One lady, who
taught for several years with success, charged fifty cents a lesson,
the pupils attending at her room. Those working in crayon in
the New York school draw almost entirely from casts; those in
the Philadelphia school, from plates. There is now a life school
in New York, where instruction is given at $20 per quarter of
eleven weeks—two lessons a week. For instruction in drawing
from plates, $12 per quarter of eleven weeks. In some of our
public schools, drawing is taught free of expense to the scholars.
31. Teachers of Fancy Work.
The accomplishments
of women are useful in their times and places. Music and drawing
are elegant accomplishments, the earliest as well as the most
universal pastimes known. Those teachers of accomplishments
that have acquired a reputation can command in a city a high
price. At Madame D.'s, crochet work and embroidery are taught
at 25 cents a lesson of one hour. Misses H., Philadelphia, give
five lessons in leather work for $6, and charge, for giving instruction
in wax fruit and flowers, paper and rice paper flowers, &c.,
$1 a lesson; in embroidery in silk, gold bullion, &c., $15 for
twenty lessons—the same for hair flowers and bead work; for the
arrangement of shells with mosses and grasses, $1 a lesson. Madame
N., who teaches crochet work and fancy knitting, charges
50 cents an hour. One stitch can be learned by a quick person
in an hour. She thinks there is plenty of that kind of work to
supply all and even more hands than are so occupied. She
employs a number, and pays by the piece. They work at home, and
can earn from $3 to $4 a week.
32. Teachers of Horsemanship.
The prices of the
riding school, New York, attended by the most aristocratic classes,
are: 16 lessons, $20; 10 lessons, $15; 5 lessons, $8; single lessons,
$2; road lesson, one pupil, $5; two or more pupils, each
$3. For exercise riding, single ride, one hour, $1.50; single
ride, half hour, $1. After taking 16 or more lessons, the prices are
somewhat reduced. At another riding school in New York, the
terms are: 20 lessons for gentlemen, $25; 20 lessons for ladies,
$20; 10 lessons for gentlemen, $15; 10 lessons for ladies, $12;
single lessons, $2. The rules are very good, and laid down in
the circulars. At another riding school in New York the prices
are: $20 for 20 lessons, $12 for 10 lessons, $7 for 5 lessons;
single lessons, $1.50; road lessons, one person, $5; road lessons,
three or more, each $3; 20 exercise rides for $15; evening rides
for $1; road rides, 10 for $8; single, $1; road ride to a lady,
$2.50. The regulations are very good. The expenses for keeping
up a riding school are considerable; so it may not prove as
profitable as the prices would seem to indicate.
33. Teachers of Infant Schools.
Teaching is interesting
to those that love children. But I would say, let not
those without patience and tenderness, or those whose feelings
can in an hour change from the boiling to the freezing point, attempt
to teach young children. In ordinary schools, young children
are liable to be either cramped or stunted. If children
must be placed at school early, let it be where they can exercise
their little bodies frequently, and not be confined in school long
at a time. To accomplish this, we think the infant school the most
efficient. Lord Brougham gives it as his opinion that a child
learns more the first eighteen months of its life than at any other
period; and that it settles, in fact, at this early age, its mental
capacity and future well-being. Mr. Babbington fixes the period
of the first nine years as the seedtime of life. Some object to infant
schools, on the ground that they divert the mind, and unfit it for
continued and concentrated thought in after life. But we cannot
think so, unless the course is pursued an unreasonable length of
time. The first two years of a child's schooling may be passed
profitably in an infant school; at any rate, if the child enters as
early as six years of age. Indeed, we think the variety embodied
in the infant-school system is one of its most pleasing and useful
features. The minds of children cannot rest long on any one
subject, any more than their bodies can retain the same posture
long at a time. It stagnates thought, prevents boldness of spirit,
and stunts the growth of a young child to sit quiet hour after
hour. Some mothers send their children early to school to have
them out of their way. Such children could be more pleasantly
and more efficiently taught in an infant school than in any other.
Yet, we are rather inclined to the opinion that a child should be
taught the alphabet at home. Gentle but firm treatment is necessary
for children, who need much sympathy and affection; and
it therefore requires the greatest patience on the part of a teacher,
in order to conduct an infant school successfully. Infant schools
are scarce in the United States; but still they exist in some
parts of New England. There was an infant school in Troy, some
time ago (and perhaps it is still in existence), in connection with
one of the public schools. The infant-school system has been
partially adopted in some of the public schools of our Western
cities; and the same system applied to Sabbath schools has been
extensively and happily carried into effect, both in the South and
West. There are several infant Sabbath schools, of which we
know, numbering considerably over one hundred children. These
schools are usually conducted by ladies. The exercises are varied,
as in day schools, and consist generally of chanting responses,
catechism, memorizing from cards, telling Bible stories, lecturing,
explaining pictures, singing, &c. This order of exercises, sustained
in a lively manner, cannot fail to interest children, and
make the school room for them a happy and longed-for place.
Nature itself points out the course to be pursued in the education
of a child: first, physical training; second, moral training;
and third, mental training. Mind and body are so closely united
that an injury to one is resented by the other. One is placed as
a protector to the other, and will not permit injury to its companion
with impunity.
34. Teachers of Languages.
A knowledge of Latin
is desirable for ladies that expect to devote much time to books.
The study of it is fine discipline for the mind. The German and
French are studied by many ladies: the French more for the
purposes of light literature and conversation; the German by those
that wish to dive into metaphysics. These languages are, both,
useful to ladies engaged in stores: the French mostly in New
York city and in the South; the German more at the North and
West. In Italy, at different times from the fifteenth to the nineteenth
century, learned women occupied chairs in the universities,
as professors of music, drawing, philosophy, mathematics, and the
languages, both ancient and modern. The author of "Women
and Work" says: "Women should teach languages and oratory.
Aspasia taught rhetoric to Socrates. The voice of woman is
more penetrating, distinct, delicate, and correct in delivering
sounds than that of man, fitting her to teach both languages and
oratory better." The prices paid for private instruction in the
languages are higher than when received in a class, and run from
25 cents an hour to $1. A language is best taught by a native
of the country in which said language is spoken.
35. Teachers of Music.
Vocal music is taught in most
of our schools, and is required to be taught in the public schools
of Germany and Prussia. In Germany, instrumental music is
also taught free of charge. It is not uncommon to see a German
mechanic performing on the piano. Instrumental music is probably
the most expensive accomplishment attending the education
of a young lady. Music is more generally cultivated in the
United States than any other accomplishment. It is better appreciated
by the mass, and, consequently, becomes more ingrafted
in the national element. In a few years our musicians will probably
equal the most celebrated of Europe. A skilful musician
need never suffer in America. If competent to give instruction
in music, there will be opportunities to do so in our cities. Most
seminaries require one teacher of music, and often two or more.
36. Teachers of Navigation.
"One of the best and
most popular teachers of navigation and nautical mathematics
and astronomy in England is a lady, Mrs. Janet Taylor. Her
classes are celebrated, and numerously attended by men who have
been at sea as well as by youths preparing for the merchant
service." Not long since, she received a gold medal and a premium
of £50 annually from the British Government.
37. Teachers of Swimming.
There is a swimming
school in Paris, containing as pupils ladies of all stations in life.
Swimming schools for both sexes have been established in New
York. In the one for ladies and girls instruction is given by
one of their own sex, and a charge made of 25 cents a lesson.
From the New York Observer we copy an article: "A few
years ago, a gentleman well known in the philanthropic world
established a school in New Jersey, not far from New York, with
the intention of making physical training a prominent part of his
educational system. He began with his own children and a few
others. The school has gradually grown until it numbers eighty
pupils, both boys and girls. Every pupil at this school is a gymnast;
every one can row a boat; and every one, down to the
smallest girl, can swim. The boys and girls are formed into separate
boat clubs, seven to each club, rowing six oars, with the
seventh for coxswain. So they row races whenever the weather
permits, and they do not mind a little rough weather. Every
day, too, during the warm season, they all have a swim. The
boys swim by themselves; and the girls, in suitable bathing dresses,
go elsewhere, with a teacher. One year of such training and
exercises will lay up stamina for a lifetime." A school has been
commenced in New York for teaching swimming out of the water,
by machinery. The prices are 25 cents a lesson in a class, and
$1 a lesson for private instruction.
38. Translators.
Translations published in the United
States are mostly made in England. Some languages are susceptible
of a much more correct and graceful translation than others.
It requires study to get the exact meaning of some authors, and
taste and genius to convey that meaning. A literal interpretation
will not always convey the meaning of an author as well as
a looser translation getting more the spirit of the original. A
person should have general information on the subject to be
treated. A translator of history must be a good historian. It
requires time to establish a reputation as a translator, but even a
translator's career must have a beginning. Dr. G., who has
charge of the editorial department of one of the most extensively
circulated magazines in the United States, says translations from
French and German are not so well liked in magazines as
original matter, and anything to be translated for his magazine
he does as a recreation from more serious duties. Owing to the
international copyright law of England and France, a French author
will send his manuscript over to England and have it rendered,
securing the right to the translation. The translation often
makes its appearance very nearly as soon as the original. Most
of the valuable works in French have been translated. Mr. W.
told me, however, that there are some scientific French works that
might be rendered into English, and some on mechanics; but it
would require some one acquainted with the subject, on account of
the technical terms. Dr. G. thinks the chances a thousand against
one that an individual could find constant employment translating.
He has frequent applications from translators for work in that
line. So we have reason to think translating is a very precarious
occupation. The best way is to find some French book that will
be popular in America, and translate it, and offer it to a publisher.
Some translators look over catalogues of foreign books
and examine such as they think will be likely to please. They
take it to the publisher, who, if he thinks it will be available,
gives the individual the task, if they can settle on satisfactory
terms. A lady, who translates considerably, told me that she
receives $5 a page for a finished translation from the French for
magazines. Books are generally done for so much, according to
the contract of the parties. The price charged for verbal translation
would doubtless depend on the amount of time consumed;
but for a written translation, the charge would be made by the
page or volume. In most of the Government departments translators
are employed, and their salaries are no doubt good.
Interpreters are also employed in some of the courts, but they
usually unite their occupation with that of copyist. In some
private establishments interpreters are employed. Where there
is sufficient business to occupy all the time of a lady, she would
doubtless find her services as an interpreter lucrative.
39. Actresses.
The circumstances under which a play-actor's
life are seen are calculated to please the young and susceptible.
They put a false estimate on the pleasures it affords.
They are apt to forget that the moments in which performers appear
on the stage all sparkling as the diamond sands and crystal
pebbles of a brook, are the principal, perhaps the only bright
ones of their lives. Many a sad spirit, many a broken heart is
concealed under the glittering tinsel. We are not among those
who denounce the theatre as a school of vice and infamy—nor
could we conscientiously laud it as a school of virtue. We think
the influence and effects depend very greatly upon the character
of the plays; much, too, depends upon the individuals of the
audience. There is no amusement that may not suffer in the
abuse. Late hours, intoxicating drinks, and bad companions, in
many cases form the curse of regular theatre-goers; and for these
the plays (perhaps harmless in themselves) are charged with
being demoralizing. Good plays have an intellectual fascination.
We think the drama might be made more a school of instruction
and innocent pastime—less a school of evil tendencies. In China
and Japan, the female parts in theatrical performances are never
executed by women. No women ever appeared on the stage of
the Greeks or Romans. Even the female characters in Shakspeare
were not represented by women in his time. The first
lady that appeared on the stage took the parts of Juliet and
Ophelia in 1660. The publicity attending the life of an actress
makes it repulsive to many, and the egotism that the profession
engenders is an objectionable feature. That there are good and
virtuous people connected with the theatre we cannot for a moment
question; but some of the men are worthless and dissipated,
and many of the girls and women engage in it because they see
no other way of earning their bread. Many a ballet girl has
danced to support an infirm mother or orphan brothers and sisters.
The roving life of an actress and want of home influences
are not conducive to the growth of domestic virtues. Yet some
actresses have married advantageously in Europe, and been respected
in social life, not less for their virtues than their talents.
The craving of admiration incident to the calling is apt to make
an actress vain. Her fondness for excitement, and her consciousness
of importance in the eyes of those who patronize her, furnish
additional fuel to the fire. If she makes a failure, she may die of
chagrin. Mr. B., a dramatic agent, thinks there is always a supply
as soon as there is a demand for dramatic performers. They
cannot enter and leave the profession, like any other. They must
be actively engaged in it all the time, or leave it. Their talents
must be carefully considered, and they placed in the company
that requires them, and in such places as suit their talents. If a
play in which they excel is to be performed in a distant city, they
accompany the troupe to which they belong. A company consists
of a combination of various talents. The number employed
is not fluctuating, but they change their localities often; that is,
go from city to city and town to town, shifting their place as
seems best. They are compensated according to talent and proficiency—from
$3 a week to $150. They are usually paid according
to the contract made with them. I think the voice of actors
when off the stage is peculiar. It is deep and hollow, as if trained
to be thrown to a distance. By the drama two of the senses
which afford most pleasure are entertained—the eye and the ear.
Madame Celeste made $50,000 clear in this country; Essler,
$70,000. The play, "Our American Cousin," is said to have
cleared $40,000 in New York. Mr. P., a dramatic agent, told
me that actresses are paid according to their position and talent.
A ballet girl is paid from $3 to $6 a week, if by the season.
Wallack pays $5 or $6. Utility people are paid from $6 to
$10. Prices depend very much on who and what the people are,
and the class of theatre by which they are employed. Those
of the better class are paid from $25 to $60 a night. When
they are not required they are not paid anything. In Europe,
some of the theatres are open during the summer. In New
York a paper has lately been commenced, devoted almost exclusively
to the drama. "Our great star actors, Mr. Forrest
or Miss Cushman, command their hundreds of dollars a night.
The handsome Brignoli or the ponderous Amodio will not dispense
their silver notes short of fabulous thousands of golden
dollars per month. Those who try the life of an actor speedily
discover that, of all hard-working men, few render more constant,
wearing, unceasing labor for their money, than those who conscientiously
do their duty in a theatre. Multitudinous and constantly
varying requirements are made of an actor who has achieved
a leading position. He
must be a linguist, an elocutionist, a
fencer, a dancer, a boxer, a painter (for the proper coloring or
'making up' of his own face and figure is no small part of his art),
a soldier (so far as a knowledge of military drill and the manual
exercise is concerned); and he should be a singer, and a bit of
an author. In a theatre where a drama unfamiliar to the com
pany
is produced every night, or in case of a new 'star,' who
plays his own pieces, a day's work of an actor may be set down
as follows: To learn by heart a part not exceeding six 'lengths'
(a length is forty-two lines), attend rehearsal from ten to one or
two, and act at night in one or two pieces. That is, six lengths
new study, rehearsal, and playing at night, is what may be required
of an actor for a day's work, without giving occasion for
grumbling at the managers. There are many actors who, upon
an urgent occasion, will study from ten to fifteen lengths in a
day, besides attending to their other duties. This, however, is
never required except in case of sudden sickness of another performer,
or some similar extraordinary event. In provincial
theatres the actors are worked much harder than in New York,
and paid much less. The starring system universally prevails,
which necessitates a constant succession of new plays, most of
which have to be studied from night to night, as a play is not
often acted two nights in succession in small cities. But when a
piece has a successful 'run,' the actors have no new study for
several weeks. Actors are usually engaged for certain lines of
business; that is, each one engages to perform only such style
of characters as he is best qualified to personate. The remuneration
of actors comes next into consideration, and the scale has a
wide range, from $3 a week up to $200 a night. This last sum
was for years the demand of Mr. Edwin Forrest. Other stars
are generally content with certain 'sharing terms;' that is, the
gross receipts, after a certain specific amount has been deducted
for the expenses of the theatre, are equally divided between the
star and the manager. Thus, for example, if the expenses of the
house are $300 per night, and the receipts $400, the lucky star
and the fortunate manager pocket $50 each per night. This is
the fairest basis on which to conduct the starring system, because,
by this plan, the salaries of all the stock company are assured
first, and the profit of the star depends on his own power of attracting
the public to the theatre. In New York the salaries
paid to stock actors are higher, on the average, than those in any
other city in the United States. The managers ignore, to a great
extent, the technical 'lines of business,' and engage the best artists
that can be had, and then have plays especially written, in
which each of their leading actors shall have a part suited to his
peculiar powers. While this plan secures to the New York public
the finest acting that can be seen in the country, it also entails
upon the managers a salary list of dimensions that would swamp
a provincial theatre in a single week. The leading actors, as
Messrs. Lester, Blake, and Walcot, at Wallack's Theatre;
Messrs. Jefferson, Jordan, and Pearson, at the Winter Garden;
Messrs. Mark Smith and Vincent, at Laura Keene's Theatre,
receive from $50 to $100 per week. Salaries for women are
about half, or perhaps two thirds of what are paid to men holding
corresponding positions. General utility men, supernumeraries,
and ballet girls receive from $3 to $10 per week. When an unusual
number of 'ladies of the ballet,' or supernumeraries of the
other sex are required, on some extra occasion, they are specially
engaged, at 50 cents a night, or sometimes for even less money.
The salaries on the east side of the city, at the Bowery Theatre,
are lower than on Broadway, the principal actors seldom receiving
more than $35 or $40 per week, and the others are in proportion.
In smaller cities, as Buffalo, Detroit, Chicago, &c., the highest
sum paid to a performer seldom exceeds $25 per week. Actors
who have achieved a position which warrants them in demanding
it, stipulate for a 'benefit' in addition to their salaries. On
these occasions, a third or a half of the gross receipts of the
evening is paid over to the performer, according as his agreement
is for a 'third clear' or a 'half clear' benefit."
40. Aquaria Makers.
One of the most innocent and
pleasing amusements that has attracted attention for some time
is the making of aquaria. The cases are formed of plate glass,
square, oblong, circular, or any shape to please the fancy of the
owner. The glass is tightly sealed when joined. The aquaria
are of two kinds: one is formed of salt water, and contains marine
plants and animals; the other contains fresh water, and
such plants and animals as are found in rivers and smaller
streams. They form a beautiful addition to a garden, conservatory,
or drawing room. Rocks form the foundation, and the soil
on them furnishes subsistence to the plants. Zoophytes, mollusca,
and fish form the inhabitants of the aquarium. Insects also find a
place in this miniature "ocean or river garden." The size for
parlors is from one foot to three in length. The largest aquaria
in this country are now on exhibition at Barnum's Museum, New
York. "They comprise over one thousand specimens of living
animals and vegetation. In these tanks the water is seldom
changed, the natural operations of the plants and animals keeping
it always pure." They are made to order in New York, and
we think might afford a pleasant pastime to some, and pecuniary
profit to others. A work giving directions for making
them has been published in New York. The author is a Mr.
Butler, who has got up the mammoth aquaria in Barnum's
Museum. There are two establishments in New York where
they may be ordered, and specimens seen. "Before we leave
the margin of the sea, we must just glance at the smaller occupations
pursued there by women. The most considerable of these
was once the gathering and burning of kelp; but chemical
science has nearly put an end to that. There is still a great
deal of raking and collecting going on. In some countries half
the fields are manured with small fish and the offal of larger,
and sea weeds and sand. Then there is the gathering of jet and
amber, and various pebbles, and the polishing and working of
them. The present rage for studies of marine creatures must
afford employment to many women who have the shrewdness to
avail themselves of it."
41. Architects.
We scarcely know to what extent this
branch of business can come within the province of woman. Yet
it is as practicable, perhaps, as some we mention. Civil architecture
is the only one open to women. In this art we are as a
people little more than novices; yet great improvements are
going on. In a century's time, perhaps, the art in this country
will have obtained the perfection of ancient nations. Properzia
di Rossi, born in Bologna, 1490, is said to have furnished some
admirable plans in architecture. The author of "Women
Artists" mentions as designers in architecture, Madame Steenwyck,
of the Dutch school, and Esther Juvenal, of Nuremberg.
She also gives the name of a lady who was a practical architect
in Rome, in the seventeenth century—Plautilla Brizio—who has
left monuments of her excellence in that species of art. The villa
Giraldi, near Rome, is the joint work of this lady and her brother.
"The wife of Erwin von Steinbach materially assisted her husband
in the erection of the famous Strasbourg cathedral; and
within its walls a sculptured stone represents the husband and
wife as consulting together on the plan." The most varied and
general information is desirable for a first-class architect. A
knowledge of drawing and the first principles of geometry are
the most important requisites. Some architects select the materials
for the building, which of course requires a knowledge of
the different kinds and conditions of wood, their fitness for various
parts of a building; also, the qualities of iron, stone, brick, and
whatever goes toward making up the building. An architect
should also select the most suitable site for the erection of the
intended structure, which would be decided, to some extent, by
the way in which it was to be used. He also should be able to
judge the nature of the soil, and the way in which a want of fitness
may be remedied. Then he must see that the foundation is
securely laid; and, as the building progresses, that the workmen
carry out the details of the plan which he furnishes. Much of
this work seems unsuitable for women; but the making and
executing of plans could be very well done by them. It would
give exercise to their taste and inventive talents. Men employ
ed
in architectural drawing earn from $1.25 to $3 a day of ten
hours. Miss H. told me of a wealthy lady in New York who is
quite an architect by nature. Mrs. D. told me of a young lady
of her acquaintance who is gifted with talents that would make a
superior architect. She has planned several houses for her father,
who has sold them at an advance of from $3,000 to $4,000, on
account of the convenient arrangement of the rooms and their
tasteful decoration. She displays exquisite taste in the selection
and arrangement of furniture. She is withal economical in her
expenditures. She is a close calculator of the cost of materials,
and a great economist of space.
42. Cameo Cutters.
There are two kinds of cameo cutting—one
with a lapidary's wheel, of hard stones, as the onyx and
the sardonyx. The shell cameos are cut with small steel chisels,
from the white portion of the shell, leaving the chocolate color for
the background. The figures are in relief. The stone is prepared
by the lapidary, and the artist arranges his design according
to the capabilities of the stone. He makes a drawing in paper
on an enlarged scale, and a model in wax of the exact size,
and the latter is carefully compared with the stone, and such alterations
made as the markings on the stone seem to require.
The outline is then sketched on the surface, and cut with tools
prepared for that purpose. After it has been properly cut, it is
smoothed and polished. In Mrs. Lee's "Sculpture and Sculptors"
we find an account of those that have engaged in cameo cutting
in the United States. Mrs. Dubois, of New York, cut several
cameo likenesses of her friends, and so well did she succeed that
she went to Italy to acquire proficiency in the art; but the artist
to whom she applied said he could teach her nothing—she had
only to study the antique. John C. King, a sculptor of Boston,
has also engaged in the art of cutting cameos; and Peter Stephenson,
of Boston, had cut in 1853 between 600 and 700 cameo likenesses.
He writes me: "Cameo cutting might be done by girls,
especially the finishing process—polishing. When in Italy, some
years ago, I employed girls to polish my cameos, and paid from 12
to 50 cents apiece. I think they earned about $1 a day. The
employment is not unhealthy, but confining." Margaret Foley,
formerly a member of the New England school of design, resided
in Lowell, and cut cameos at $35 apiece. She was kept
busy in filling orders. The Misses Withers, of Charleston, S. C.,
are said to cut cameo likenesses with beauty and skill. I saw
Mr. L. a Frenchman, in New York, copying a likeness from a daguerreotype.
He also copies from life. He learned the business
in Paris. He charges $15 for those large enough for a breastpin,
and which it requires him about three days to make; smaller
ones are lower in price. He imports the stones, and furnishes
without extra charge to those for whom he works. A good intaglio
worker can make cameos, but a cameo worker cannot make
intaglios. Some men can never learn the business. It would
form a beautiful pastime and a profitable and refined occupation
for a lady, if sufficient work could be obtained.
43. Copperplate Engravers.
In a hasty reading of
"Women Artists," we find mention made of a number of ladies
occupied at various times, in different European countries, as copperplate
engravers: in the sixteenth century, one in Holland, and
one in Italy; in the seventeenth century, Germany produced seven,
France one, Spain one, and Italy three; in the eighteenth century,
Italy two, France one, and Denmark one. It may have been that
some escaped my notice. Mr. S. told me he knew a family of copperplate
engravers; but the daughters are now married. I saw a
lady who engraves on copper; she had an office in New York.
She was willing to instruct a lady on these terms: after the pupil
had acquired about six months' practice, she would allow her half
for all the work she did in six months more; then she could be
at liberty to work for herself. She thinks a year sufficient time
to acquire a good knowledge and practice of card engraving.
She had spent a year at it irregularly, having no instructor, but
asking advice and assistance now and then. In that way she did
not obtain the custom she would have done by being known to
others. The patience and careful attention to details requisite,
and the sedentary nature of engraving, render it a more suitable
occupation for women than men. To make a good card engraver,
an educated eye, a steady hand, and ability to form letters gracefully,
are the principal requisites. A card engraver told me he
knew a lady who assisted her husband in his work, that of copperplate
engraving. As the people of the United States become
wealthy, and cultivate a taste for the fine arts, engravers will be
more patronized. There is a collection of old and choice copperplate
engravings in the possession of Mr. Plassman, who has a
school of art in New York; there is also such a collection at the
Historical rooms in the same city.
44. Daguerreans.
The process consists in concentrating
the light of the sun on a metal plate, so prepared by chemicals
as to retain the impression of an image that falls upon it. The
shadow catcher has become almost interwoven with the every-day
realities of life. Prof. Draper speaks of daguerreotyping as introducing
a beautiful work, in which "the fair sex may engage
without compromising a single delicate quality of woman's nature."
Some artists, not content with moving in the ordinary
way from place to place, have cars built that roll on wheels and
are drawn by horses. The daguerrean sleeps in his little home,
and, on the road, far away from a good tavern, can even do his
own cooking, or have it done, in his car. The business has also
been carried on by men in small boats, floating down rivers and
stopping at villages and farm houses. It requires taste and judgment
both to make an operator and to color. Colorers of photographs
could, if skilful and constantly employed, earn $30 a week
in large cities. An operator, if busy, works from 9 to 5 o'clock
in winter. A wonderful improvement has taken place in the daguerrean
art since its discovery. A lady daguerrean and photographer
writes me: "Ladies are employed in the business as operators,
and to superintend; also to repaint and retouch photographs.
With care in the use of chemicals, I do not consider it
particularly unhealthy; less so, I think, than sewing by hand or
machine. No person will do well for himself, herself, or patrons,
who commences business without a good knowledge of it. The
time of learning will depend upon the individual's knowledge of the
sciences bearing on photography, and their talent for the business.
It would vary from two weeks to three months. The labor of
the learner is usually given while learning, and from $25 to $100
besides. Spring and fall are the best seasons, summer the poorest;
but there is no time during the year in which there is not
something to do. I operate and superintend in my own establishment,
and hire a boy only, who does chores. The principal
discomforts of the business are the heat to which we are exposed
in summer (being usually and necessarily near the roof), the
smell of chemicals (which do not unpleasantly affect any one),
and the soiling of clothing, which is more unavoidable with
women. The amount of business, and consequently the location,
decide the profits of the business. As the business is attended
with considerable expense, it is necessary, in order to make it
pay, to seek a good location. It is profitable when a person is
well established in a desirable location. I think ladies and
children usually prefer a lady artist. Upon the whole, I think
the business quite as suitable for women as men. There is
generally more or less spare time, but a woman is most apt to
occupy such time with fancy work or reading." A daguerrean
writes: "Women are sometimes employed in the reception room
to receive ladies—occasionally, in the operating room. They
receive from $3 to $8, according to capacity and address. Men
generally command better prices, because they can sometimes
perform labor out of a woman's sphere, such as unpacking goods,
carrying packages, and other jobs, not suitable for women. I
think the business as healthy as any indoor business. It requires
from six to twelve months to learn the duties of the operating
room; for the reception room, from one to three weeks. Industry,
patience, perseverance, shrewdness, and suavity of manners, are
the necessary qualifications. Prospect for employment poor, as
prices are reduced to almost nothing. All seasons are nearly
alike. November and June are dull. Our women work in summer
from seven
A. M. to six
P. M. The work averages about eight
hours per day the year through. Men are superior in patience (?)
and force of character. Women are easily discouraged, and liable
to be petulant. In many instances, there is much running
up and down stairs, which is harder on women than men. And
there is too much standing for a woman's health."
45. Schools of Design.
Schools of design were established
444 B. C., for the purpose of improvement in making statuary.
The arts declined when Europe was overrun by barbarous
tribes, but in the eleventh century began to recover, and in 1350
several painters, sculptors, and architects formed an academy of
design at Florence. In Paris there are seven schools of design for
males, and two for females, supported by the city. There are seventy
schools of design in Great Britain, and there is an annual exhibition
of their work in London, where premiums are awarded. It is about
twenty years since the schools were commenced in England. In
1854 nearly I,500 students had been educated in the School of
Arts in Edinburgh. There are schools of design in New York,
Philadelphia, Baltimore, and Boston. The object of these schools
is to give a knowledge of some industrial branches of the fine arts.
"The greater part of the higher order of designs are practically
unavailable, for want of knowledge, on the part of the designer, of
the conditions of the particular manufacture in question. The
economic possibility and aptitude are not studied; and hence, the
manufacturers say, an enormous waste of thought, skill, and industry.
This want supplied, a field of industry practically boundless
would be opened to female artists, as well as artisans; and it
would be an enlightened policy to look to this while the whole
world seems to be opening its ports to our productions." Mrs.
Alice B. Havens writes of the school of design in Philadelphia:
"When novelty and jealousy shall have ceased to excite envy
and suspicion among those who would keep our sex from honest
independence, a wide sphere of employment will be opened by this
and similar institutions to educate intelligent women; for surely,
if English manufacturers are not content to be under the control
of foreign influence, our own countrymen can never be." The
largest class of wood engravers is in the school of New York; the
largest for designing on wall paper, in Philadelphia. More time
has been devoted to instruction in drawing in the New York than
the Philadelphia school. Without some practice in drawing,
nothing can be accomplished in either wood engraving or designing.
Designing, in some of its branches, is taught in all of the
schools. Designs for paper hangings, calicoes, and wood engraving
receive most attention. Designs for carpets, silks, ribbons,
furniture, lace, plated ware, silver, jewelry, &c., have received
but little, if any attention—those for casts and moulds, no more.
If women of taste and cultivation attain superiority in designing,
we doubt not they will reap a very fair harvest for their work.
Lithography, wood engraving, drawing and painting, are also
taught in schools of design. There are now in the school of design,
New York, between 200 and 300 pupils: some are wood engravers,
some designers, and some painters. "The earnings of
the pupils in the classes of drawing and engraving are as varied
as their skill and experience, but are about the same as those
of men who have been at those branches of art the same length
of time. Engravers and designers are generally qualified to
work on orders the second year of their practice. With industry
and the use of their
whole time during school hours, pupils may
expect an increase of about a $100 a year for several years.
The income from the branches of art taught in the school must
always be proportioned to the talent, experience, habits of application,
and rapidity of hand shown by the artist. The engravers
in the school who best understand drawing have the best
work, and even the highest wages. The pupils have the entire benefit
of their earnings." "At Lyons, France, the manufacture of
divers stuffs absorbs the hands of thousands of men and women;
but the men, only, enjoy the privilege of inventing combinations
of forms and colors destined to inveigle the eyes of fashionable
caprice." In the school of design, Philadelphia, a charge of $9
per quarter is made to amateur pupils for instruction, and a
charge of $4 per quarter to professional pupils. In the school
of design, New York, a charge of $4 per quarter is made to pupils
who acquire instruction as an accomplishment: to those fitting for
a profession, no charge is made. A lady teacher in the New
England school of design had a salary of $400. We will copy
an article placed at our disposal on the artistic employments
of women in America. It was written by a former principal of
the school of design in Boston: "The artistic employments of
women in this country may be divided into three classes: 1st,
those devoted to the fine arts; 2d, those engaged in designing
and the business departments of the arts; 3d, teachers
of drawing, painting, &c.—1. Under this head comparatively
few will be found; the number, however, is fast increasing, and as
avenues of sale for their works are found, I doubt not that there
will be a marked improvement both in the quality of their work
and in the amount paid for their labor. Most who pursue this
department are confined to portrait painting or crayon portraits.
I have seen beautiful portraits in colored crayons executed by
ladies. I regret to say a comparatively small price was given,
varying from $10 to $25, while works executed by men not a
whit superior in any respect would command from $25 to $50,
and even more.—2.
Designing, and the Business Department
of the Art. This admits of several divisions, and first we will
take designing for textile materials. When women are engaged
in the mills, their labor is very poorly paid for, compared with the
payment made to the other sex. I know of about twenty women
who are so engaged. The prices paid for their labor varies from
$1 to $2 per day—men receiving from $800 to $1,200 and even
$1,500 per annum. The difference here, however, is not so great,
when the time given by the two to the necessary study is compared.
Many of the male designers serve an apprenticeship
varying from three to seven years before they are supposed to be
fitted to take the situation of designer in a mill, and even this does
not include the preliminary instruction in the school. Women, on
the contrary, after a year or little more of study, enter the mill on
equal terms with the prepared designer, his pay at the commencement
of his engagement usually being from $1 to $1.50 per day.
The employment of women at all in this department is almost a
new thing, and is not yet countenanced to any great extent.
Time, however, will remove all difficulties in the way, and, by
steady perseverance I think woman will be able to show herself
superior to man in this branch, because it is more in her own domain
than in that of man. When the designs of women are presented
to manufacturers and found acceptable, they will command a
price equal to the designs of men. This I speak from experience,
having disposed of designs for silver ware, printed coach linings,
coach lace, paper for walls, calicoes, delaines, and muslins, and other
articles of like nature. These have commanded the same price
as the designs of men, but it is difficult at times to find a market
for them. I remember presenting some designs to a manufacturer,
about two years since, which were very much praised; but when I
stated they were made by ladies, at first it was said to be impossible,
and then they sunk in value, were wrong in the mechanical
detail, were not adapted to the purpose for which they were
intended; but, unfortunately for the truth of the latter statement,
they were disposed of to another manufacturer in the same street,
who had formed rather a different idea of the powers of women
as compared with men. A second branch of business art is drawing
for mechanical purposes and patent inventions. There are
in this city many ladies who earn quite a handsome income by
drawing for the patent office, patent agents, &c., the drawings
chiefly linear mechanical ones, the remuneration varying according
to ability. Some are paid by the piece, and others by the
day. The day laborers earn from $1 to $2, and in two instances
$2.25 and $2.50 per day. The price of work varies according to
size, intricacy, finish, &c., the rate being nearly that which
men receive, in some instances the same. This requires mechanical
knowledge which is not very often possessed by women,
but is a branch of study that would be found both pleasant and
profitable, especially if they were prepared for it by an elementary
course in the public schools. It is not a branch that admits
of much display, and is therefore almost entirely neglected, or
taught in such a way as to be utterly futile for all practical
purposes. A third branch is architectural drawing. I know
of but one instance of a woman pursuing this branch, which is
both delightful, useful, and very profitable. Perhaps there is
not any department of the fine arts to which woman might more
successfully devote herself than to this. Such a devotion of
woman's power would tend to abolish the gross deformities we so
often see paraded before our eyes in the streets, in the form of
buildings presenting every possible incongruity of shape and
every perversion of the beauty of form. This requires much
study, but would eventually repay for all the time and trouble
that would be bestowed upon it. A fourth is wood and other engraving.
This commands as high a price as men's labor, when
brought into the market; but when women are employed in engraving
establishments, the grossest injustice is shown them in
the inequality of the payments made. A woman will receive, in
the same place, for the same amount of labor, a sum not exceeding
half of that paid to the men in the same employment. In England
this department stands on a perfect equality as regards sex. The
quality of the work being the test of price, it is the same to men
as to women, if the quality is the same.—3.
Teachers of Drawing
and Painting. This is always most profitable when pursued
independently of the schools. When it is so pursued, the rate of
payment varies from $5 to $25 per quarter, for each pupil, excepting
in the case of very small children, when the prices may be a
trifle lower, but the same would be the case with men as with
women. In most academies the service of teaching in this department
is given by preference to women, and at the same price.
When they are engaged simply as assistants, then a gross inequality
begins. A man would be paid say $200 or $300 per annum
for one half day a week—a woman $100 or $150 at most.
The reason for this lies deeper than I can divine, but in other instances
when a lower price is paid, it is generally the fault of the
individual employed. There should, if possible (and I conceive it
to be so), be a fixed rate for teaching a certain number of pupils,
and so much more additional for every one added: this would
give a general rate for all to make their demands upon. If more
branches, or extended time, or any other demand was made upon
the individual teaching, then they would have some standard
whereby to regulate the extra charges. There is only one feature
which requires to be somewhat changed, and that is a tendency
to superficiality. Women oftentimes commence to teach before
they themselves have taken more than the most elementary steps
for their own improvement. Time will, however, regulate this
deficiency; and as the resources of improvement open to all, those
who devote themselves to the honorable employment of teaching
will take all proper steps to fit themselves for the office.—There
is no department of the fine arts—painting, sculpture, architecture,
or manufacturing design—in which woman may not run
an equal race with man, if she takes the same trouble and care
to fit herself for it, and, when fitted, is faithful to her own interests
and her profession. This will never be accomplished by schools
of design as at present instituted, for they lose their character
and become designing shops. This must be laid aside, and
culture, with a general or specific object, be alone attended to
for the time necessary to learn properly and thoroughly what
they are about to practise. Men and women both, now expect to
learn the art of designing fully in the course of six or twelve months.
This can only be done to a limited extent, depending on the
powers of the pupil, the mode of instruction, and the capacity of
the teacher to win and to guide those committed to his or her
care. If the profession is entered upon with unfitness and want of
knowledge, then the prices of labor will be necessarily reduced
to a low scale; if with fitness, and a certainty of our own capacity,
we can demand 'a fair day's pay for a fair day's work.'
The interests of this nation demand the production of native
designs, and whenever her children are fully fitted to produce
them, are competent to put their designs side by side with those
of other nations and challenge a comparison, every other
obstacle will dwindle into a shadow, and every difficulty that
now stands in the way of woman's
natural place, in art at least,
will be finally removed—to which end 'may God speed the
plough.'"