VI.—HOW TO MAKE A TOOL CABINET. (Continued.)

AFTER shelf A is fitted in this way, you will nail it into its place in cabinet so that the top of shelf is just seven inches above top of lower shelf, or bottom of cabinet which serves for a shelf.

After the shelf is fitted into its place in the cabinet, you will find that at one end you have a convenient little tray to hold such things as chalk-line, rule, pencils, and other small things that are always getting out of sight when you most need them. The plan for A is just six inches above lower shelf (or bottom of cabinet).

N. B. All measurements now are inside measurements.

B is twenty-two and one fourth inches long and two and one half inches wide. Draw a line down the middle of this strip (i. e., one and one fourth inches from each side). Measure one inch from left-hand end and mark. Then from this point on pencil line measure one and one half inches and mark again. Repeat this until you have six points marked on the pencil line, with one and one half inch spaces between. From the last point measure one inch, and mark. Repeat at intervals of one inch until you have thirteen with inch spaces. This should leave about three fourths of an inch on right end.

TOOL-DOORS.

On the first six marks (those one and one half inches apart) bore five eighths inch auger holes. These are for tool sockets. First two for the chisels you have already; next three for the chisels or gouges you may have; the last for the screwdriver.

There must be doors for the tools to enter by; so you must cut openings one half inch wide from the front of shelf to each hole. This is easily done with your cross-cut saw, leaving spaces as in drawing.

You have still thirteen marks with inch spaces. Bore nine holes a trifle larger than the shanks of the bits you are to place therein; three of these bits you already have; the other six spaces are for the bits you are likely to purchase by and by.

The four remaining marks are for holes graduated in size, thus: First, one with three eighths inch bit (one of those belonging to smaller set); second, with one fourth inch; third and fourth, with the next smaller sizes; each bit going into a hole a size larger than itself. These smaller bits go in point down. It will be a great convenience to mark the numbers of the bits on the shelf against their sockets.

Shelf B is to be nailed twenty and one fourth inches above shelf A.

Now for shelf C. Ten inches from left-hand end, put small one half inch block for same purpose as similar block on shelf A; i. e., to keep plane from sliding. Nail shelf C three inches above shelf A in left-hand side of cabinet. This little shelf of course does not reach across the cabinet like the others.

Six and one fourth inches above shelf C, and four inches from left-hand side of cabinet, bore hole with one half inch bit, which shall have a slant downward. Parallel to this, and eight inches to the right, make another hole just like it. Insert in these holes wooden pegs two inches long. Be sure they fit firmly with back of cabinet. These pegs are for the draw-shave to hang upon, as seen in diagram.

Ten and three fourth inches above shelf A, and three inches from right-hand side, make one half inch hole slanting down; one and one half inches beyond make another; insert pegs three inches long. These are for the mallet.

The body of the cabinet is now fitted, and we will go to work on the cover.

Take two blocks one inch square and one and one half inches long; draw a line lengthwise exactly in the centre of each; cut down the line one half inch deep the length of block. Put one of these blocks slit uppermost on bottom shelf of door four inches from left-hand corner. Five and one half inches to the right, put the other; fasten into place with screws.

Twenty-one inches above first block, four and one half inches from side of door, put block one inch square, one and one half inches long. This goes on horizontally, parallel with lower block. In centre of this make small hole, say one fourth inch deep, with smallest bit.

Make a second block just like it, and place five and one half inches to the right of the first one.

Then from one half inch wood, cut two little strips two inches long, one half inch wide, for buttons. In the middle bore hole large enough for screw to turn freely; attach to middle of upper blocks with screws. The tips of the saw-blades go into the slits in the lower blocks. The openings in the handles slip over the wooden buttons which you have just made, and which are horizontal when the saws are put on, and are then turned like the button on a barn door to hold the saws firmly in place.

Now we must provide for the hatchet, so it will not get harm nor do harm.

Take block of one inch wood, five inches long, three inches wide; plane one half of one face in a slant from the middle, so one edge will be three fourths thick, leaving one half the block one inch thick, as at first. Bore two holes in the half that is still square, big enough for two screws to go through and fasten on to lower shelf or bottom of door. This block in its place is one inch wide at the bottom, and three fourths inches at top, leaving a kind of bevel five inches long for hatchet-blade, between block and back of door. Put hatchet in; hold it upright and mark where handle needs support to keep it horizontal; probably about nine inches from blade; with screws fasten on two small brackets, or else put in slanting pegs, if you do not care about the looks outside.

Four inches from top, and five and one half inches from left-hand side, put similar bracket or peg; three and one half inches further, on the same line, put another; these will serve to support the bit brace, and I have left enough room for the keyhole-saw, which you can see in the diagram, and which some time you will like to own.

Now cut a piece of wood three inches long, two inches wide, and three fourths inches thick; draw line across one end and down the edge two inches long.

Cut this line out as you did for the slits for the saws, and then (slit up of course) with two screws put through the lower part, fasten block at point ten inches from right-hand side, just far enough above the saws to clear them. This is for the try square, the slit being for the blade.

Fifteen inches from left-hand side, and four inches from top, put a bracket; on the same line, one and one half inches farther from the left side, put another; these are for the hammer.

You now have all your tools in place. You will in all probability have had some tools in the house before we began, such as pincers, gimlets, perhaps a saw; but of course I have not a list of those things.

So I have simply given you a good deal of room to put them in, and by this time you ought to know how to secure them in their places.