DEPARTURE FROM SHIRAZ—ZERGOON—BEND-EMIR, THE ANCIENT ARAXES—PLAIN OF MERDASHT—TOMBS AND SCULPTURES OF NAKSHI RUSTAM—FIRE-TEMPLES—PERSEPOLIS—GENERAL VIEW OF THE WHOLE—PARTICULAR DESCRIPTION; STAIRCASE; PORTALS; HALL OF COLUMNS—SCULPTURES AT NAKSHI RADJAB—POPULAR TRADITIONS.
At eleven o’clock on the morning of the 13th, the Envoy recommenced his journey towards Teheran. The Prime Minister, and the Chief Secretary, Mahomed Hassan Khan (the commander of the Karaguzloo tribe), the Prince’s Lord Chamberlain, and Mahomed Zeky Khan, our former Mehmandar, with Abdulla Khan, who had succeeded to that office pro tempore, accompanied us about the distance of a mile from Tengui Ali Acbar, and then all took their formal leave, except our late and present Mehmandars.
At the distance of a quarter of a mile beyond the gate of the pass departing from Shiraz, one of the most compact of distant views presented itself. As we saw it from an eminence, the fore-ground was formed by the two bold acclivities, (which close into the pass and are connected by the gate), and the interval in the distance is filled up by part of Shiraz, the campagna and the mountains in the horizon. As our tents and baggage were still considerably behind us, we stopt and drank coffee at a hut, where is a reservoir of ice constructed by the Prince on a plan which to us seemed simple and good. A deep trench of about fifty paces in length, and fifteen in breadth, is cut into the ground; other dikes are cut transversely, which, as they fill with water, are emptied into the reservoir. When this first layer of water is congealed, another draught is made from the dikes, and thus the ice is accumulated. A wall is built the whole length of the reservoir to screen the ice from the south wind which is here the hottest. We staid here about two hours, in which time Captain Sutherland ascended the highest point of the mountains to the west, and returned with the most brilliant account of the view: Shiraz and its plain were at his feet, the gardens and the whole delineation of the mountains and surrounding lands, laid out as if on a map.
After we had quitted our late Mehmandars and their company, and had been joined by their successor Mahomed Khan, we begun to wind in the hills, and rode by the banks of the little stream of Rocknabad, until we came to a station of Rahdars, which is called Kalaat Poshoon, from its being the spot where the Prince puts on the kalaats, with which the King is frequently pleased to honour him. The country through which we passed, is hilly and open; scarcely a shrub enlivens the brown mountains, which here and there are varied by the capriciousness of their stratification into forms as extravagant as they are inhospitable. The source of the Rocknabad is about twelve miles from Shiraz, into which its waters find their way, after meandering in a variety of directions in their progress towards it. There was nothing particularly interesting in the march of the day. Large flocks of pigeons now and then flew over our heads, and the road here and there was occasionally strewed with ruined castles and caravanserais, which, though they bore a name, yet being uninhabited, are no longer worthy to be marked in the topographical history of Persia. After we had received the salute of a few miserable fusileers, had heard the recitative verses of one or two poor Mollahs, and had trampled over two or three bottles of sugar-candy, we arrived at our encampment at Zergoon.
Zergoon, when first seen, looks a respectable place: a mud wall surrounds it; but, as it was broken down in many places, it was not difficult to observe that the greater part of the houses within were mere shells, and their inhabitants proportionably wretched. It is situated close at the foot of a range of mountains at the southern extremity of a small plain, which is of the finest soil, and towards the town not ill cultivated. We calculated our march to have been thirteen miles from our tents at the Bagh-a-Vakeel at Shiraz, and on an average our route lay North-East.
The night was interrupted by the disputes of the mule-drivers and the bustle of feroshes. We quitted Zergoon at nine o’clock, and, at the distance of about two miles, entered into the plain of the same name (confounded with that of Merdasht) of a most delightful soil and partially cultivated, which extends near fifteen miles East and West. We proceeded three miles further, and crossing the river Bend-emir, entered the real plain of Merdasht. The bridge is thrown over the river immediately behind a projecting foot of the mountains; it is called the Pool Khan, and has (besides two lesser arches, which in this season were unoccupied by water) two principal arches, and another of a second size, through which three the river runs. The Bend-emir is the ancient Araxes, and runs in a general direction from North to South: where we crossed it indeed, it was flowing from N. N. E. to S. W. It does not fall into the sea at Cape Jasques, (now at least, as has been said) though it still enters Kerman. I am told that it goes to Corbal, ten fursungs from Persepolis, a large place in the province of Kerman, where its waters are received and kept up by a very considerable dam called the Bund Emir, i. e. the Bund Emir Timoor, or the dam of Tamerlane.34 There are several Bunds at Corbal, and in the neighbourhood, each raised by a King. In the bolook or district of Corbal, there is a village called Sedeh Nokara Khonéh, about eight or nine fursungs distant from Persepolis; where, in the common story of Persia, Jemsheed kept his royal drums and trumpets: the noise of which, when sounded there, reached his ears at Persepolis. According to the reports, which we received from the people of the country, the whole plain of Merdasht for many miles round is covered with interesting monuments of antiquity, mostly taking their direction to the southward.
From the bridge to the extremity of the plain may be ten miles. At two miles from our encampment, near the remains of Persepolis, we turned to the left to visit the ruins and sculptures of Nakshi Rustam. Although they appeared close to us, yet the great variety of the streams (drains from the Bend-emir and another river) which have been made to irrigate the country, obliged us to make a circuitous route of at least four miles.
The tombs and sculptures at Nakshi Rustam are all contained in the space of about two hundred yards, on the surface of steep and craggy rocks, the fronts of which extend in a line from N. W. to S. E. On the N. W. they terminate abruptly, and take an Eastward turn: and this termination is marked by the shaft of a column six feet high, which stands upon the eminence, and is of the very same stone as that on which it rests; though it has not been left in its present position by the excavation of the adjacent parts, for I thrust a kunjur (a dagger) several inches between it and the surface of the foundation rock; in which therefore there is obviously a socket to receive it. The top of the rock (on which the sculptures at Nakshi Rustam are executed) is levelled into a platform about twenty feet square: on this is an elevated seat or throne; the ascent to which is by five steps, i. e. two steps and a landing place, and then three more, I think however, that I perceived the remains of another step to the landing place. The throne itself is an oblong nine feet by six, and the whole rock is a fine marble.
Nearly under this column is situated (see plate XV.) the first and most northern piece of sculpture. It consists of two figures on horseback, and a third on foot. Chardin’s description of this, as well as of the other monuments, is sufficiently satisfactory; and I will therefore only mention where I differ from him. He says, that the size of the horses is suited to that of their riders: now to me they seem to be by far too small in proportion; and the best proof of this is, that the riders’ feet nearly touch the ground. What he calls bridles of chains of iron did not strike us as such. The whole furniture of the horses is admirably preserved, and I have endeavoured to draw it with the most scrupulous accuracy. The bridle of the horse on the right is exactly the same as those of the horses at Shapour, with numerous knobs or buckles on the head-stall: that of the horse on the left is of another species of ornament, yet also with many straps and buckles. Both have a remarkable strap or piece of iron which reaches from the horse’s forehead all down the front part of the face, covers the lips, and is fastened behind near the opening of the cheeks. The breast-plate of the horse on the right is composed of large round plates linked together: that of the horse on the left is ornamented with lions’ heads. The man behind the figure on the left, holds (not an umbrella, as Chardin mentions, but) a fly-flap, which is common to almost all the principal figures at Persepolis. Each of these horsemen trample on a body; that under the figure on the right is more correct and well preserved, than the other to the left. A Greek inscription is engraved on the chest of the first horse, composed of seven lines, the three first of which are illegible. Then nearly close under these lines are some characters, which are extremely effaced, but which I have endeavoured to copy exactly. (See the inscriptions, plate XXIX.) They are evidently the same as those which I saw at Shapour. On the breast of the opposite horse there is also a small but very effaced inscription in the same characters.
The sculpture next to this is composed of nine figures; five on the right side, and three on the left, of a personage at full length, who stands in the centre, holding a sword before him with both hands, and bearing a globe on his head. The figures to the left are beckoning as it were to the others on the right. There is besides another curious figure at full length, behind the rock close to the sculpture, but still making part of the same piece.
More in the centre of the whole extent of rock, and nearly under the base of a tomb, is a very spirited piece of sculpture, representing the combat of two horsemen, who are in the very shock of the engagement. (Plate XVI.) The figure on the left (as the spectator fronts them) has an immense crown with three balls on the top of three pyramidical points. Another ball of the same sort is on his right shoulder; and another on the summit of his horse’s head. On the full stretch of his horse he presents his lance, which is seen to pass through the throat of his adversary. A quiver hangs by his side, and a sort of armour covers his middle, and the back part of his horse. A figure behind him, apparently his standard-bearer, holds a kind of ensign, which is a staff crossed at the top and ornamented with five balls. The remainder is admirably executed, and represents the other horse thrown backwards on his haunches from the shock of the first cavalier’s onset, and the spear of his rider broken. The helmet, with which the second horseman’s head is crowned, is more Grecian, than any which I saw among the ruins; and the whole, though much effaced, is executed with better proportions and effect than any of the others.
After this I was delighted and surprised to find an exact copy, though in a gigantic scale, of the subject at Shapour, with one person in a Roman dress on his knees before the horse’s head, and another whose hands are seized by the rider. Under the horse’s belly is a long Greek inscription, of which I could make out only a few characters. There are, besides, other characters similar to those at Shapour, of which the annexed is a specimen. (See plate XXIX.)
Next to this, is a sculpture containing three figures: the one in the middle has a crown and globe on his head; his right hand is extended towards a female figure on his left, and they both grasp a ring. The third figure, which stands behind the male one in the middle, is defaced and is apparently only an attendant.
Nearly adjoining, is a much mutilated representation of a combat between two heroes on horseback. (Plate XVII.) The first, clad in armour with a globe on his head, makes a desperate thrust with his lance (his horse being at its greatest stretch) at the other figure, whose horse is in the act of rearing, and who holds his lance, as if he were preparing to receive his antagonist. The figure with a globe on his head tramples a man under his horse’s feet.
The tombs are four in number. Captain Sutherland with some difficulty entered into the one farthest to the northward. A Persian mounted first, and then let down a shawl; by which, as by a rope, Captain Sutherland helped himself up. A platform is cut into the rock before the tomb, which he entered through a small door, and found a chamber thirty-seven feet in length, and nine and a half in height: facing him were three arched recesses, in which the bodies of the deceased had probably been deposited.
In following the abrupt turn to the East, which the rock of the sculptures takes, we come to two square fire-altars, situated on a projecting mass and placed upon one base. They are six feet in height, and one side of the square is three feet. On the summit of each is a square hole. Further on in the recess of the mountain, are twenty holes or windows of different sizes, but all of the same pattern, with an inscription over them. The characters, according to our observation, differed from all that we found in any of the various remains which we visited. Facing nearly the middle of the sculptured rocks, stands an ancient fire-temple. It is a square building, one side of which measures twenty-four feet. It is of white marble and of admirable masonry. In front there is a door; open indeed only at the top, and which appears to have been opened thus far by force, for all the lower stones are mutilated. The inside exhibited signs of fire. On each side, except that on which the door is placed, are four apertures: they seem to have been scarcely intended to admit light; as (at this day, at least) they are each closely fitted with a stone. A small niche is over the door. A cornice, enriched with dentils, passes around the summit; and in the lines, where the stones have been fitted, oblong perpendicular incisions are made at regular intervals. The people call it a pigeon-house. The plain is covered with the wild liquorice; and we plucked some of refreshing taste on the banks of a stream, which (about a mile from the sculptures and tombs) turns a mill on the left of our encampment. We started snipes and ducks from the Rood-Khonéh-Sewund, which runs into the plain from the northward.
As we had still two hours of daylight before us, we rode to Persepolis, and took a cursory view of the ruins. Our first, and indeed lasting impressions were astonishment at the immensity, and admiration at the beauties of the fabric. Although there was nothing, either in the architecture of the buildings, or in the sculptures and reliefs on the rocks, which could bear a critical comparison with the delicate proportions and perfect statuary of the Greeks, yet, without trying Persepolis by a standard to which it never was amenable, we yielded at once to emotions the most lively and the most enraptured.
At the distance of about five miles is a conspicuous hill, on the top of which, and visible to the eye from Persepolis, are the remains of a fortress. This hill is now called Istakhar, and is quite distinct from Persepolis. Persepolis itself is commonly styled by the people of the country “Takht Jemsheed,” or the throne of Jemsheed: it is also called “Chehel Minar,” or the Forty Pillars. Le Brun has given a drawing of this hill of Istakhar; and the original must strike every traveller the moment he enters the plain of Merdasht, as it has all the appearance of having been much fashioned by the hand of man.
Jan. 15th. After reading prayers to our society, I hastened to the ruins. I went on this principle, that I would endeavour to draw and ascertain all that former travellers had omitted; and for that purpose I took Chardin and Le Brun in my hand, that I might complete all that I found wanting in their views and notices. Finding, however, that they differed from each other (and one of course therefore from the reality) in many essential points, I thought that an entire description of the ruins in their present state would answer my purpose better than a partial and unconnected account, referring only to the mistakes or omissions of others.
The most striking feature, on a first approach, is the staircase and its surrounding walls. Two grand flights, which face each other, lead to the principal platform. To the right is an immense wall of the finest masonry, and of the most massive stones: to the left are other walls equally well built, but not so imposing. On arriving at the summit of the staircase, the first objects, which present themselves directly facing the platform, are four vast portals and two columns. Two portals first, then the columns, and then two portals again. On the front of each are represented in basso-relievo figures of animals, which, for want of a better name, we have called sphinxes. The two sphinxes on the first portals face outwardly, i. e. towards the plain and the front of the building. The two others, on the second portals, face inwardly, i. e. towards the mountain. From the first (to the right, on a straight line) at the distance of fifty-four paces, is a staircase of thirty steps, the sides of which are ornamented with bas-reliefs, originally in three rows, but now partly reduced by the accumulation of earth beneath, and by mutilation above. This staircase leads to the principal compartment of the whole ruins, which may be called a small plain, thickly studded with columns, sixteen of which are now erect. Having crossed this plain, on an eminence are numerous stupendous remains of frames, both of windows and doors, formed by blocks of marble of sizes most magnificent. These frames are ranged in a square, and indicate an apartment the most royal that can be conceived. On each side of the frames are sculptured figures, and the marble still retains a polish which, in its original state, must have vied with the finest mirrors. On each corner of this room are pedestals, of an elevation much more considerable than the surrounding frames; one is formed of a single block of marble. The front of this apartment seems to have been to the S. W. for we saw few marks of masonry on that exposure, and observed, that the base of that side of it was richly sculptured and ornamented. This front opens upon a square platform, on which no building appears to have been raised. But on the side opposite to the room which I have just mentioned, there is the same appearance of a corresponding apartment, although nothing but the bases of some small columns and the square of its floor attest it to have been such. The interval between these two rooms (on those angles which are the furthest distant from the grand front of the building) is filled up by the base of a sculpture similar to the bases of the two rooms; excepting that the centre of it is occupied by a small flight of steps. Behind, and contiguous to these ruins, are the remains of another square room, surrounded on all its sides by frames of doors and windows. On the floor are the bases of columns: from the order in which they appeared to me to have stood, they formed six rows, each of six columns. A staircase cut into an immense mass of rock (and from its small dimensions, probably the escalier derobé of the palace) leads into the lesser and enclosed plain below. Towards the plain are also three smaller rooms, or rather one room and the bases of two closets. Every thing on this part of the building indicates rooms of rest or retirement.
In the rear of the whole of these remains, are the beds of aqueducts which are cut into the solid rock. They met us in every part of the building; and are probably therefore as extensive in their course, as they are magnificent in construction. The great aqueduct is to be discovered among a confused heap of stones, not far behind the buildings (which I have been describing) on this quarter of the palace, and almost adjoining to a ruined staircase. We descended into its bed, which in some places is cut ten feet into the rock. This bed leads East and West; to the Eastward its descent is rapid about twenty-five paces; it there narrows, so that we could only crawl through it; and again it enlarges, so that a man of common height may stand upright in it. It terminates by an abrupt rock.
Proceeding from this towards the mountains, (situated in the rear of the great hall of columns) stand the remains of a magnificent room. Here are still left walls, frames and porticoes, the sides of which are thickly ornamented with bas-reliefs of a variety of compositions. This hall is a perfect square. To the right of this, and further to the southward are more fragments, the walls and component parts apparently of another room. To the left of this, and therefore to the northward of the building, are the remains of a portal, on which are to be traced the features of a sphinx. Still towards the north, in a separate collection, is the ruin of a column, which, from the fragments about it, must have supported a sphinx. In a recess of the mountain to the northward, is a portico. Almost in a line with the centre of the hall of columns, on the surface of the mountain is a tomb. To the southward of that is another, in like manner on the mountain’s surface; between both (and just on that point where the ascent from the plain commences) is a reservoir of water.
These constitute the sum of the principal objects among the ruins of Persepolis, some of which I will now endeavour to describe in more detail. The grand staircase consists of a Northern and a Southern ascent, which spring from the plain at the distance of forty-six feet from each other. Each again is divided into two flights; the first, terminated by a magnificent platform, contains fifty-four steps on a base of sixty-six feet six inches, measured from the first step to a perpendicular dropt from the highest at the landing place: the second, to the extreme summit of the whole, consists of forty-eight steps on a base of forty-six feet eight inches. Each step is in breadth twenty-six feet six inches, and in height three inches and a half. So easy therefore is the ascent, that the people of the country always mount it on horseback. The platform, where the two grand divisions meet, is thirty-four feet from the ground, and in length seventy. From the front of this platform to the portals behind is likewise seventy feet.
The portals are composed of immense oblong blocks of marble; their length is twenty-four feet six inches, breadth five feet, and distance from one another thirteen feet. The two first are faced by sphinxes; the remaining parts of whose bodies are delineated in a basso-relievo on the interior surface of the portal. In passing through these, the next objects before the more distant portals are two columns, but (as there is a sufficient space for two others, and as the symmetry would be defective without such an arrangement) I presume that the original structure was completed by four columns. The second portals correspond in size with the former, but differ from them not only in presenting their fronts towards the mountain, but in the subject of the sculptures with which they are adorned. The animals on the two first portals are elevated on a base. From the contour of the mutilation, the heads appear to have been similar to those of horses, and their feet have hoofs; on their legs and haunches the veins and muscles are strongly marked. Their necks, chests, shoulders, and backs, are encrustated with ornaments of roses and beads.
The sphinxes on the second portals appear to have had human heads, with crowned ornaments, under which are collected massive curls, and other decorations of a head-dress, which seems to have been a favourite fashion among the ancient Persians. Their wings are worked with great art and labour, and extend from their shoulders to the very summit of the wall. The intention of the sculptor is evidently, that these figures (emblematical perhaps of power and strength) should appear to bear on their backs the mass of the portico, including not only the block immediately above each, but the covering also, which, though now lost, certainly in the original state of the palace, connected the two sides and roofed the entrance. In these, as in the first portals, the faces of the animals form the fronts, and the bulk of their bodies, (called forth to a certain extent by the basso-relievo on the sides) is supposed to constitute the substance of the walls.
Under the carcase of the first sphinx on the right, are carved, scratched, and painted the names of many travellers; and amongst others we discovered those of Le Brun, Mandelsloe, and Niebuhr. Niebuhr’s name is written in red chalk, and seems to have been done but yesterday.
A square reservoir of water, broken in many places, yet still appearing to have been of one single block, was in the space, between the portals and the staircase which led to the grand hall of columns. The breadth of that staircase is fifteen feet four inches. It has two corresponding flights, the front of which, though now much mutilated, was originally highly carved and ornamented with figures in bass-relief. The stones which support the terrace of the columns are all carved in the same style, and are as perfect as when Le Brun made his drawings. On comparing indeed his designs with the originals, I found that he had given to some of the figures a mutilation which does not exist; for I discovered on a close inspection many interesting details of dress, posture, and character, which are omitted in his plates. One great defect pervades this part of his collection; in order to elucidate by the human form the comparative dimensions of the buildings, he has introduced figures so small, that, measured by them as a standard, the actual size of the objects represented would be three times their real magnitude. In fact, a man who stands close to the sculptured wall touches the summit with his chin, though the figures in the drawings of Le Brun would not reach half way.
Immediately on ascending this staircase, stands a single column, but on closer observation I counted the bases (or spots at least where once bases were) of eleven more columns of two rows; forming, with the first, six in each row. They are quite distinct from the great cluster in the centre of the hall, and were therefore probably a grand entrance to it.
Passing forwards through this double range, we observed large blocks of stone, placed at symmetrical distances (to correspond with the arrangement of the columns at the entrance, and those in the centre), and forming, probably, the bases of sphinxes or other colossal figures. Having taken some pains to ascertain the real plan and the original number of the columns in the great hall, I came to the following conclusions: I observed, in the first place, that there were two orders of columns, distinct in their capitals as well as in their height, and that, of the highest, two rows were severally placed at the E. and W. extremities of the hall.
Between these and the mass of columns of less height and a different capital is the space on either side of one row, in which, however, no trace whatever of bases exists, and through which run the channels of aqueducts. The remainder in the centre consists of six columns in front, and composes with the four exterior rows a line of ten columns; each row contains in depth six bases, forming, with the twelve at the entrance, a grand total of seventy-two. On drawing out a plan of this arrangement, I find that it is symmetrical in all its points, and in every way in which I can view it satisfies my imagination; but, on comparing it with that laid down by Niebuhr, my own conceptions have accorded so exactly with those of that great traveller on this, (as well as on the ichnography of the general remains) that the introduction of my sketch becomes unnecessary.
On one of the highest columns is the remains of the sphinx, so common in all the ornaments at Persepolis; and I could distinguish on the summit of every one a something quite unconnected with the capitals. The high columns have, strictly speaking, no capitals whatever, being each a long shaft to the very summit, on which the sphinx rests. The capitals of the lesser columns are of a complicated order, composed of many pieces. I marked three distinct species of base. The shafts are fluted in the Doric manner, but the flutes are more closely fitted together. Their circumference is sixteen feet seven inches. Some of their bases have a square plinth, the side of one of which I measured, and found it to be seven feet; the diameter of the base was five feet four inches, diameter of columns four feet two inches, distance from centre of base to the next centre twenty-eight feet. To the Eastward of one of these, and close at the foot of one of the highest columns, are the fragments of an immense figure. The head and part of the fore-legs I could easily trace; the head appeared to me more like that of a lion than of any other animal, and the legs confirmed this supposition; as it has claws so placed, as to indicate that the posture of the figure was couchant.
The grand collection of porticoes, walls, and other component parts of a magnificent hall, are situated behind the columns, at the distance perhaps of fifty paces, and are arranged in a square.
On the interior sides of the porticoes or door frames, are many sculptured figures, which have been drawn with accuracy by Le Brun. They represent the state and magnificence of a King, seated in a high chair with his feet resting on a footstool.
To the north of these remains, is the frame of what was once a portico, and where the outlines of a sphinx are to be traced among the rude and stupendous masses of stone. Further on, nearly on the same line and bearing, is the head of a horse, part of which is buried in the ground. It is ornamented like the remains of that which we call the sphinx on the great portals, and is certainly the horse’s head, which Le Brun drew, declaring that he could not discover the part to which it had belonged. Close to it, however, are the remains of an immense column, eight feet in diameter; the different parts of the shaft have fallen in a direct line with this head, and obviously formed with it one connected piece in the original structure, in which probably the fragment on the ground surmounted the capital, as the sphinx still crowns some of the remaining columns.
In the time of Mandelsloe, (who visited Persepolis 27th January, 1638) the number of columns erect was nineteen: in a letter indeed to Olearius, (written from Madagascar on the 12th of July, 1639, and published by his correspondent) he states, that thirty remained; but, as he does not specify their position, he might have included those lying on the ground, and at any rate he was writing a private letter, from memory, in a distant country, at the interval of a year and a half. His own authority therefore in his book is a better evidence of the fact; and as he there omits another and much more curious circumstance, which he had asserted in the same letter, the value of that document becomes still more suspicious. Speaking of the celebrated inscriptions at Persepolis, he says, “on voit aussi plusieurs caractères anciens mais fort bien marqués, et conservant une partie de l’or, dont ils ont été remplis.” Sir Thomas Herbert also, however, mentions that the letters at Persepolis were gilt.
17th. On quitting Persepolis, I left our party in order to examine a ruined building on the plains, which at a distance is generally pointed out as a demolished caravanserai. I passed the stream of the Rood Khonéh Sewund to the North, nearly where the road takes a N. E. direction, and came to a fine mass of stone, thirty-seven feet four inches square, which appears to have formed the base of some building. It is composed of two layers of marble blocks, the lower range of which extends about two feet beyond the line of the upper. The largest blocks, according to my measurement, are ten feet four inches in length, four feet four in depth, and three feet four in breadth; all still retain a moulding, and traces here and there of masonry which must have connected them with others. The whole building is filled up in the middle by a black marble, and in its N. E. angle one stone is raised higher than the rest. In the same angle, is a channel cut, as if something had been fitted into it. I took the following bearings: foot of the rocks of Nakshi Rustam, N. 10 W. two miles; foot of the mountain of Persepolis, S. two miles: our encampment S. 20 W. two miles; road to Ispahan, N. 80 E.
I was called from this spot by a Chatter sent by the Envoy to conduct me to some sculptures, which he had himself seen, (about four miles from the place on the same mountain of Persepolis,) by the side of the road to Ispahan. I found them indeed worthy of the minutest investigation, as no preceding traveller has described them with any sufficient accuracy. They are situated in a recess of the mountain, formed by projecting and picturesque rocks. The sculpture facing the road is composed of seven colossal figures and two small ones. (Plate XIX.) The two principal characters are placed in the centre; the one to the left is the same (not in position indeed, but in general circumstance) as that which we had so often seen represented at Shapour and Nakshi Rustam. He has the distinguishing globe on his head, and offers a ring to the opposite figure; who, seizing it with his right hand, holds a staff or club in his left. Behind the personage with the globe, are two figures, one of whom, with a young and pleasing face holds the fan, the customary ensign of dignity: and the other, with hard and marked features, and a beard, rests on the pommel of his sword with one hand, and beckons with the other. Behind the chief on the right, are two figures, which from the feminine cast of their countenances appear to be women; one wears an extraordinary cap, and the other, whose hair falls in ringlets on her shoulders, makes an expressive motion with her right hand, as if she were saying, “Be silent.” Between the two principal figures, are introduced two very diminished beings, who do not reach higher than the knees of their colossal companions. In dress they differ materially from each other, and one holds a long staff. To the left, on a fragment of the rock, is the bust of a figure, who also holds his hand in a beckoning and significant posture. The largest of these figures I reckoned to be ten feet in height; the small ones two feet eight inches. The whole of this is so much disfigured, that it is difficult to ascertain its various and singular details.
In the same recess, and to the left of this sculptured rock, forming an angle with it, is another monument in a much higher state of preservation; parts of it indeed have suffered so little, that they appear to be fresh at this day from the chissel. (Plate XX.) The same royal personage, so often represented with a globe on his head, and seated on horseback, here forms the principal character of the groupe. His face, indeed, has been completely destroyed by the Mahomedans, but the ornaments of his person and those of his horse, (more profusely bestowed on both, than on any of the similar figures which we had seen) are likewise more accurately preserved. They merit a particular description; because as the composition was probably designed to represent the King in his greatest state, every part of his dress is distinctly delineated. I assign this subject to the sculpture, because no other personage of rival dignity appears in the piece; and because the attitude of the chief announces parade and command; for he presents a full face to the spectator, and his right hand, though now much mutilated, still rests on his side to indicate his ease and his independence. Nine figures, of which the first is nine feet high, wait behind him; and, from the marks of respect in which they stand, can be attendants only on his grandeur. On each side of his head swells an immense circumference of curls; he wears an embossed necklace, which falls low on his breast, and is therefore, perhaps, rather the upper termination of his garment; but its counterpart, an ornament of the same description round the waist, is certainly a girdle. His cloak is fastened on his left breast by two massive clasps. A rich belt is carried from his right shoulder to his left hip, across an under garment, which, from the extreme delicacy of its folds, appears to be formed of a very fine cloth or muslin. The drapery of some loose trowsers, which cover his legs down to the very ancles, displays equal delicacy, and is probably, therefore, of the same texture. From the ancles a sort of bandage extends itself in flowing folds, and adds a rich finish to the whole. On the thigh there appears to hang a dagger. The horse is splendidly accoutred with chains of a circular ornament: his length, from the breast to the tail, is seven feet two inches; and on the chest is a Greek inscription, of which the letters are about an inch in height, and correspond in form with those of the latter empire.
Opposite to this sculpture, in the same recess and on the right of the first, is another, containing the same two figures on horseback, holding a ring, which we had seen at Shapour and at Nakshi Rustam. On the general merit of these remains, I may say, that they are superior to those at Nakshi Rustam, and equal to those at Shapour.
When I had sketched these monuments, and completed my observations, I hastened to join my party, who were then considerably advanced. A man who filled some station about the camp joined me. He asked my opinion on the probable design of these sculptures, and when I had told him my own conceptions, he assured me, that the royal personage here also was Rustam; and when I reminded him that their own traditional King, Jemsheed, might possibly be the hero, he replied in the true spirit of a system, “Jemsheed was but the slave of Rustam.” Of the figures grasping the ring, one again (according to the same theory) was Rustam, in the act of proving his strength, by wrenching it from the other’s hand.