The Bridesburg Manuf’g Co. Textile Machinery Builders, 201-203 Chestnut Street, Philadelphia. Stockton Bates, President. Wm. D. Shubert, Secretary. Roller, Goodyear, and Witch Harness, Sheeting, Duck, Bag, Clipper, Gebhart, Ticking, and all kinds arranged for jacquard tops. Wool and Worsted Cards, Pickers, Renovators, Mules. Shoddy and Hair Pickers. Foss & Pevey,—Wellman,—and Iron Roller Cards. Drawing,—Railway Heads,—Spinning Frames, Reels,—Mill Warpers,—Spoolers. Plans for all kinds of Mills made.
Jas. H. Billington & co., established 1848. manufacturers’ supplies of every description, for cotton, woolen, silk, and worsted machinery. manufacturers of bobbins, spools, shuttles,and skewers, oak leather belting, machine cards, and specialties. general mill furnishers. no. 113 Chestnut street, Philadelphia, pa. correspondence solicited.
Barbour’s Irish Flax Thread, 1784–1887 Barbour’s Jacquard Harness Thread, Noted for Strength and Smoothness, and Warranted not to Stretch. The Barbour Brothers Company, New York, Boston, Philadelphia, Chicago, St. Louis, and San Francisco.
Bonaker & Jones. Manufacturers of Design Paper For Carpet & Upholstery. Designers; 58 N 4th St. Philadelphia. Represented by Vincent T. Rafferty. Having the experience and facilities for making Design Papers in all sizes, we are enabled to supply manufacturers with the best at the lowest rates. Special sizes made to order. Will be pleased to give you prices for any quantity or size you may need.
Jacquard Machines (Single and Double Action) Of Improved Construction. We give great attention to the workmanship, use only the best materials, and produce The Best Machine in the Market. Our prices compare favorably with those more cheaply built. We furnish machines constructed on the English plan—leaving out bottom board and glass rods—when desired. Geo. W. Stafford Mfg. Co., Nos. 3 and 5 Point Street, Providence, R. I., Machine Builders. Single and Double Action Jacquards, Single and Double Action Dobbies, The only Double Action Open Shed Positive Dobbie, Equalizing Spring Jacks, Cottrell’s Positive Let-off Motion, etc., etc. Sketches and Designs furnished and Cards Cut. Mail Eyes, Twine, Lingoes, Wires, Springs, etc., furnished. Leno Weaving—both simple and compound—a specialty. (Patented September 6, 1887.) This Comber-board can be seen at the Textile School, 1336 Spring Garden Street, Philadelphia. Stafford’s Patent Comber Board. The divisions are made with wires crossing each other, giving the least possible wearing surface on the twine, thus reducing friction on the outside of the harness, and consequent wear; preventing bagging and the jumping of lingoes; Jacquards can be run at much higher speed where this board is adopted. Five years’ use has sustained the above claims and demonstrated its practicability.
The Textile Record, 425 Walnut Street, Philadelphia. The Foremost Textile Journal of the United States. Covering every Department of Textile Manufacture. Weaving and Jacquard Work Fully Discussed. Each Number filled with Original and Practical Articles. The largest staff of Expert Contributors. The Textile Record has positive practical value to every mill owner and mill worker. Its contributions to the literature of the textile industry surpass in value and interest everything yet attempted on this side of the Atlantic. Richly Illustrated in Each Number. Sample Copies on Application to The Textile Record, No. 425 Walnut Street, Philadelphia, PA.
ROYLE’S
Highest Award at the American Institute, 1873,
The Special Medal of Silver. Highest Award at New Orleans,
The Gold Medal with First Degree of Merit. Improved Piano Machines
—AND—Automatic, Positive Action, Power Repeaters,
For Cutting Jacquard Pattern Cards. Improved Silk Machinery:
Warpers, Beamers, Quillers, Dobbies, Covering
Or “Gimp” Machines, Twisters, &c.
John Royle & Sons,
Paterson, N. J.
New High-speed Power Loom For Ingrain Carpets. Built by the M. a. Furbush & Son Machine Co., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S. A. One Hundred Picks per Minute. Fifteen Shuttles Pick and Pick.
New High-speed Power Loom For Ingrain Carpets. Built by The M. a. Furbush & Son Machine Co., Philadelphia, Pa., U. S. A. One Hundred Picks Per Minute. Fifteen Shuttles Pick and Pick. This Loom combines the best features of the Duckworth and Murkland Looms; while possessing the shading capacity of the latter, it is easier in its operation, and of a considerably higher speed than either. The following points as to the construction and operation of this Loom will prove to any manufacturer, superintendent, fixer or weaver the superiority of the same over any other style: Runs light.There is no heavy lay to operate, as in other looms. The lay (raceway and boxes) are stationary, and the filling is beaten up by means of a comb, which is the only part that swings; being light, it can easily accomplish the movements necessary for the one hundred picks per minute, which could never be attained by operating the lay as in any other loom. No tearing of cloth By the Shuttle Catching in the Warp and Being Drawn Up by the Reed, as the comb for beating up the filling passes in front of the shuttle. Easy on filling. The peculiar shape of the filling fork allows the shuttle to pass under it, at the same time merely opening wide enough to admit the filling. The motion is easy and delicate, and will not break the poorest filling—a great point of superiority over all other high-speed looms, in which there is always more or less tendency to chop the filling. Shuttle boxes. The box mechanism is the same as in the Murkland Loom, there being a revolver of seven boxes and three upright boxes, thus giving ten boxes on each side, or twenty in all. The Jacquard machine is constructed principally as in the Duckworth Loom, although the cylinder gauge, boards and journals are like those of the Murkland. The cylinder is worked with the rock shaft of the Duckworth Loom, instead of a cam shaft. The change gears For Take-up, instead of being worm gears, are ratchet; but the number of teeth to number of picks is the same as in the Murkland. Power back-off. The Loom has a power back-off, as in the Duckworth, a pressure of the foot being sufficient to reverse the Loom. Separate cams are provided for each arrangement of boxes, instead of segment cams as in the Murkland Loom. The Loom is pick and pick. Journals are operated from below by cams and treadles. The new Loom covers all the features demanded in a perfect Ingrain Carpet Loom, including ability to make all the new weaves.
Loom Picker Co. Biddeford, Maine, Manufacturers of Raw Hide and Leather Loom Pickers and Strapping,Including many varieties of Raw Hide Pickers never before made in this country, such as Scoops, Centre Scoops, Pressed Centres, Feathered Feet Bows, XL Bows, All of which are a superior substitute for the ordinary Bow Picker. Sole Manufacturers of the Parker Patent Drop Box Picker, Which is so constructed that the blow is against the edge of the hide forming the body of the Picker. These Pickers have no plug in the Shuttle Strike to be driven out or worked loose, and they are guaranteed not to break at the head. Also, Manufacturers of Loom Harnesses of Superior Quality. All Harnesses are made of the very best quality of twine and stock, and are carefully finished. They are guaranteed to possess all the requirements of a superior article. An Illustrated Catalogue giving a detailed description of our goods will be mailed on application.
Chas. Ashoff,manufacturer of Reeds and Heddles, And Dealer in Manufacturers’ Supplies, Nos. 191 and 193 Berks Street, Philadelphia, PA.
Patent Jacquard Machines Applied to any Style or Make of Power Looms, for any Kind of Figured Goods. Single Lifts, Double Lifts, Raise and Drop Jacquards, Witch Motions (Dobby Machines), Single and Double-lift Heddle Machines. Jacquard Card-stamping Machines. Piano Steam-Power Card-Stamping Machine,For Jacquard Cards. The speed is completely at the will of the operator, and will punch as high as 170 strokes per minute. The capacity is about double that of a foot-power machine. Two cards can be stamped at once. Dobby Card-Punching Machine. This machine is built for punching Jacquard or Dobby Cards of the strongest pasteboard, punching the whole card at one revolution or stroke. After the keys are set, any number of duplicates can be punched. It is well constructed, simple, and a most effective machine. Piano Foot-Treading Card-Stamping Machine. I have lately reconstructed this machine, making it more compact by a novel and durable escapement of the rack. Jacquard Card-Lacing Machine. The only successful machine ever introduced for this purpose. Far superior to hand lacing for regularity and durability. Light-running, simple and durable. Can be operated by a small girl or boy. Will lace 800 to 2000 cards per hour. Thoroughly and satisfactorily tested. Weighs about 500 pounds. Machines now in operation and ready for the inspection of manufacturers. Machines placed on trial with responsible parties. W. P. Uhlinger, Nos. 14 to 36 Canal Street, Philadelphia, Pa. (Take red car on Third Street to Frankford Avenue and Canal Street.)
Knowles’ New Ingrain Power Carpet Loom. Designed to meet a want long felt in the manufacture of Ingrain Carpets, for a loom that should be simple in its construction, easy of operation, positive in its motions, and could be run at a high rate of speed. The Knowles Loom Works take pleasure in calling the attention of carpet manufacturers to their new Ingrain Carpet Loom, as one in which all the above features are combined in such a manner as to make a loom that meets the requirements mentioned above, and one that will be highly appreciated by manufacturers of those goods for which the loom is designed. The following are among the important features: The journals on the loom are controlled by a cam motion, or by the same efficient chain motion that is used on our Worsted Loom instead of the cam motion, handling the warp with the greatest ease and calling either journal at will, which cannot be done on other carpet looms, thus giving a wider range of pattern and design than on other looms; and should it be necessary to change the shading, it can be done by changing the chain, instead of cutting out the warp and re-drawing it. The box mechanism is positive, and controlled by a chain on the same shaft as the journals, and may be used with the chain alone, or with the chain in combination with the cards. The motion can be run forward or reversed at will, and any box called as desired, thus giving a wide range to the shading facilities of the loom, and any combination of colors can be produced on this loom that can be done on any 4 × 4 box loom in the world. The Jacquard is of our own manufacture, and of the most improved pattern. Great care is used in its construction, thus making it a very efficient part of the loom, and is driven from the same shaft as the journals and box motion, thus working in harmony with them. The take-up motion is positive, and is very substantial and accurate, consisting of fluted rolls, and operated by the usual train of gearing, while the goods are wound up on a roll below. The let-off is controlled by the tension of the warp over a rocking whip roll, operated by a cam on the bottom shaft, held by a clamp friction, geared to the head of the beam. Two filling motions are used, one at each end of the lay, each working independently of the other, inside the selvedge, so that the breakage of the weft is instantly detected, and these motions are so combined with friction pulley and brake, that the loom is stopped instantly “on the pick,” and consequently, when filling is replaced, the loom is ready to start without loss of time in finding the pick, or setting of Jacquard or box motion. The shuttle-smash protector, which knocks off the loom when the shuttle does not box properly, thus preventing what are known as “shuttle smashes;” a shuttle check, for easing the force of the shuttle as it enters the box; a foot lever, for throwing the lay back when the loom is stopped, making it very easy for the weaver, and the speed at which the loom can be run, together with the features mentioned above, combine to make this loom the best in the market for the purpose for which it is designed. Correspondence solicited and circulars sent on application. Knowles Loom Works, No. 57 Jackson Street, Worcester, Mass.
Schaum & Uhlinger, 1030-1038 New Market St., Philadelphia, Pa. Manufacturers of Ribbon, Tape and Webbing Looms, Latest Improvements. New Patterns. Lathes Or Battons, For Ribbons, Fringes, Tapes, Suspender and Goring Web, &c. We construct our Lathes on correct mechanical principles, use only the best materials, and produce The Best Lathe In the Market. Write to us for estimates: it will pay you. Jacquard Machines, With any desired number of hooks. Applied to any manufacture of loom. Harness Tied up for all Figured Weaving. A Full Line of Weavers’ Supplies: Mails, Lingoes, Heddles, Harness Twine, Compart-Boards, Glass Rings, Shuttle Eyes, &c. If you contemplate manufacturing Figured Goods, write to us for information, or send us samples of the goods you desire to make, and we will furnish you estimates for a complete equipment, including Jacquard Machines, with harness tied-up, designs made, cards cut, &c. Fifteen years’ practical experience in this line of business enables us to give our customers the Best Results with the Least Expense. Schaum & Uhlinger, 1030-1038 New Market St., Philadelphia, Pa.
TEXTILE SCHOOL OF THE Pennsylvania Museum and School of Industrial Art,
Classrooms: {No. 1336 Spring Garden Street, {S. E. Cor. Broad & Spring Garden Sts.
THE LEADING TEXTILE SCHOOL IN AMERICA.
Founded in co-operation with the Trustees of the Penna. Museum and School of Industrial Art,
WM. PLATT PEPPER, President,
by the following members of the Philadelphia Textile Association:
Thomas Dolan & Co.,
John & James Dobson,
William Wood & Co.,
William Arrott,
John Yewdall,
Fiss, Banes, Erben & Co.,
Conyers Button & Co.,
George & James Bromley,
Seville Schofield,
Alexander Crow & Son,
James Smith & Co.,
M. A. Furbush & Son,
John Bromley & Sons,
Thomas L. Leedom,
James Doak, Jr. & Co.,
Charles Spencer & Co.,
H. Becker & Co.,
Andreas Hartel,
S. B. M. Fleisher,
Grundy Bros. & Campion,
H. W. Butterworth & Sons,
Stead & Miller.
Extract from COURSE OF STUDY for Day Class, requiring three years’ attendance at School.
FIRST YEAR’S COURSE.
The hand-loom, analyzed and explained.
Elementary principles of “dressing” warps; beaming the same; fixing of harness; drawing-in; reed and reed calculations, etc., for single cloth.
A general study of the nature of materials used in weaving textile fabrics; explanation of the necessary materials and instruments used by designers.
Weaves.—Ground or Foundation Weaves.
I. Plain, or cotton weave, and fancy figuring through color arrangements in warp and filling, for light-weight fabrics.
II. Twill weaves—a, one-sided twills; b, even-sided twills; and fancy figuring with same through color arrangements in warp and filling.
III. Satin weaves—a, single satins; b, double satins; c, figuring in single satins.
Drafting Weaves.
Lectures, with practical examples and rules observed.
Derivative Weaves.
Basket, rib, and granite weaves; steep, curved, broken, skip, corkscrew, and fancy twills; pointed twills and honeycomb weaves; pique weaves, and combinations of miscellaneous weaves.
Standard sizes of cotton wool and worsted yarns, with calculations.
Picking out samples of textile fabrics constructed on single weaves, with methods and rules employed in duplication.
Original weaves for single cloth; complete orders for manufacturing.
Instrumental drawing in elementary exercises, with instruments; construction of plane figures; line shading, etc.
Freehand drawing; enlargement and reduction of designs; analysis of plants for the purpose of design for textile fabrics.
Work in color; lectures on color harmony.
SECOND YEAR’S COURSE.
The power-looms analyzed and explained, and practical weaving and fixing; a, the Thos. Wood roller loom, for ginghams, shirtings, cottonades, dress goods, etc.; b, the Crompton loom, and c, the Knowles loom, for worsted and woolen fabrics of every description; single and double beam work.
Double Cloths—Study of the best methods of combining different weaves, as: Designs backed with weft; designs backed with warp; designs backed with warp and weft; designs for double cloth, double faced.
Calculation: ascertaining the cost, production, etc., of the different fabrics.
Analyses of single cloth (fancy), and double cloth fabrics, and reproduction with various changes, as requested.
The Jacquard Machine Analyzed and Explained; principles of construction and method of operation of the single lift machine; the various modifications, such as double lift single cylinder, double lift double cylinder; “laying out” of comber-boards, and figuring for various changes in texture; tying-up of harness for single cloth.
The Bridesburg Clipper Loom analyzed and explained, and practical work on it, with special reference to its use in connection with the double lift double cylinder Jacquard machine for damask table-covers, etc.
Card-stamping machines (French index) analyzed and explained, and actual work for single cloth on the machine; explanation of, and practical work in card-lacing.
Theoretical work; designing paper with reference to the different textures of single cloth fabrics.
Sketching of designs for single cloth, and transferring sketch to the □ designing paper.
Shading of fabrics by the weave.
Analysis of Jacquard work for actual reproduction; also for reproduction with various (given) changes.
Study of special fabrics, such as dress trimmings, fringes, etc.
Study of processes for textile fabrics before and after weaving.
Instrumental drawing in lettering; drawing plans for machinery, rooms, mill buildings, etc.
Illustrating processes of weaving.
Illustrating sectional cuts of textile fabrics, etc.
Freehand drawing; sketching for the different textile fabrics on Jacquard work.
Work in color; lectures (advanced course); practice in the use of color.
Chemistry.
Theory of Chemistry applicable to the textile art.
THIRD YEAR’S COURSE.
The two-ply ingrain carpet machine analyzed and explained.
The ingrain carpet hand-loom, and the ingrain carpet power-loom, built by the M. A. Furbush & Son Machine Co., analyzed, explained, and practical work.
Card-stamping machine (American index) analyzed, explained, and practical work.
Tying-up of Jacquard harness (French index) machines for double cloth; three and four-ply fabrics.
Advanced Work for the Harness Loom.
Study and practical work of cut pile fabrics—velvets, plushes, etc.; terry pile fabrics, with wires and without wires; terry and velvet pile combined.
Astrakans, cut, uncut, also cut and uncut combined.
Chenille, rugs, curtains, etc.
Gauze fabrics, plain, figured, and combined with other weaves.
Designing for upholstery fabrics, Jacquard gauze, Brussels carpet, tapestry carpet, double face Brussels carpet, etc.
Card-stamping on the French index stamping machine for two, three, and four-ply fabrics.
Instrumental and freehand drawing similar to second year’s course, but for more difficult objects in textile fabrics and machinery.
Work in color; application of theory of harmony to dyeing.
Chemistry.
Theory and practice of chemistry, including actual work in the laboratory and dyeing of fabrics.
T. C. SEARCH,
Chairman Committee on Instruction of the School, and Pres. Phila. Textile Association.
The Circular of the Committee on Instruction will be mailed upon application.
PRESS COMMENTS.
A Model School of Industrial Art.
We cannot, at this time, speak of its provisions by which drawing, modeling, designing, etc., are taught; but we desire to call particular attention to the facilities that are offered for a practical instruction in weaving and textile design. Special courses are provided for teaching designing for all varieties of textile fabrics, and its practical application to loom work. As a complete course in its theoretical and practical utility we do not hesitate to say it is without an equal in America. A school of this kind is of the highest importance to the manufacturing community that centres about Philadelphia.—Boston Journal of Commerce.
An American Textile School.
The Textile Department of the Pennsylvania Museum and School of Industrial Art clearly fulfils the requirements of a good Textile School, and the promise is that it will speedily become one of the best in the world, as it is now decidedly the most advanced in this country. Pupils are taught designing for all varieties of textile fabrics, and to make them thoroughly familiar with loom work, so that they may be able not only to prepare their own designs, but also to reproduce their own patterns in the cloth.
This institution, by fitting young Americans for exact scientific work in the textile industries, will confer a huge benefit upon them and upon the nation.—The Textile Record of America.
The Textile Department of the School of Industrial Art, 1336 Spring Garden St.
Many scholars who have been at this school in former years are now filling responsible and profitable positions.—The Bulletin, Phila.
Thomas Wood & Co., Fairmount Machine Works, Twenty-Second and Wood Streets, Philadelphia, Pa. Power Looms. Patent Bobbin Winding Machines. Patent Cop Winding Machines. Improved Presser Beaming Machines. Plain Beaming Machines. Improved Reels for Wool, Worsted, Cotton, Linen, etc. Improved Presser Spoolers. Plain Spoolers. Warp Splitting Machines. Hank Twisting Machines. Warping Mills with Patent Driving Heads and Improved Hecks. Single and Double Warp Sizing Machines. Dyeing Machines for Warp and Piece Goods. Cradle and Cone Indigo Mills. Fulling Mills. Calendering Machines. Self-acting Wool Scouring Machines. Yarn Bundling Presses. Loom Beam Trucks. Shafting, Hangers, Pulleys, etc. Adjustable Self-oiling Bearings. Patent Friction Pulleys. Improved Cut-off Coupling. Patent Couplings. Patent Loose Pulleys. Gearing. Elevators. Plans Made and Factories Completely Equipped with Machinery.
Mill and Manufacturers’ Supplies.
Sole Philadelphia Agent For
Stoddard, Lovering & Co.,
Boston, Massachusetts, and Bradford, England.
Importers of English Worsted Machinery, and Hattersley Looms, for every class
of work. Also, Pickers, Temples, Loom Springs, and White’s Picker Leather
in the side or by the strap, Torlotin’s Sizing; also, all other English Supplies.
Also Agent For
Charles L. Ireson, Boston, Massachusetts.
Pure Oak-tanned Leather Belting and Findings, Wire-sewed Belting, and maker
of Ireson’s Patent Self-adjusting Leather Link Belting.
Stedman & Smith, Lawrence, Massachusetts.
Machinists and makers of Machine Castings, and every kind of Mill work.
John W. Barlow,
Lawrence, Massachusetts.
Bow, Drop Box, English Scoop, or other Pickers of best quality.
Banning, Bissell & Co.,New York, N. Y.
Porcelain Department:—Pot Eyes, Steps, Shuttle Eyes, and Pottery Goods of
every description.
Single and Double Belting, Belt Hooks, Springs, Temples, Picker and Lace Leather
(Coupes), Cleaning Cloths, Belt Dressing, (both American and Hepburn & Gale’s English),
Felt Cloth, Porcelain Goods, Fibre Washers, Banding, Gears, &c., &c., in stock at all
times. All Supplies not in stock can be procured at once.
Worsted Mill Machinery and Supplies a Specialty.
David B. Douglass,
201 Church St., Philadelphia, Pa.
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