Between great Amatitlan and this Town the way is plain, and lieth under a Vulcan of fire, which formerly was wont to smoak as much as that of Guatemala, but having formerly burst out at the top, and there opened a great mouth, & cast down to the bottome mighty stones (which to this day are to be seen) it hath not since been any waies troublesome unto the Countrey. In this way there was in my time a new Trapiche of Sugar erecting up by one John Baptista of Guatemala, which was thought would prove very usefull, and profitable unto the foresaid City. I had yet for the time that I lived in Amatitlan another very little village at my charge, called Pampichi at the bottome of a high mountaine on the other side of the lake over against it, which was but a Chappell of ease unto great Amatitlan, unto which I went not above once in a quarter of a yeer, and that for pastime and recreation; for this village is well in that language a compound also of Pam, in, and Pichi, flowers, for that it standeth compassed about with flowers, which make it very pleasant, and the boats or Canoa's which doe constantly stand neer the doores of the houses, invites to much pleasure of fishing and rowing about the lake.
And thus whilst I lived in Amatitlan I had the choice of three places wherein to recreate my selfe, and because the charge of many soules lay in my hands, I had one constantly to helpe me. The Towne of Amatitlan was as the Court in respect of the rest, where nothing was wanting that might recreate the mind and satisfie the body with variety and change of sustenance, both for fish and flesh. Yet the great care that did lie upon me in the worke and building of the Cloister, made me very soone weary of living in that great and pleasant Towne; for sometimes I had thirty, sometimes twenty, sometimes fewer, and sometimes fourty worke-men to looke unto, and to pay wages to on Saturday nights, which I found wearied much my braine, and hindred my studies, and was besides a worke which I delighted not in, nor had any hopes ever to enjoy it. And therefore after the first yeer that I had been there I betooke my selfe unto the Provinciall, who was in Guatemala, and againe earnestly besought him to peruse the Licence which I had from Rome to goe to England mine owne Countrey for to preach there (for that was the chiefe ground of letting me goe home, as the Generall largely expressed) where I doubted not but I might doe God great service, and in Conscience I told him I thought I was bound to employ what parts God had bestowed upon me, rather upon my own Countreymen, then upon Indians and strangers. The Provinciall replyed unto me that my Countrey men were Heretickes, and when I came amongst them they would hang me up. I told him, I hoped better things of them, and that I would not behave my selfe among them so as to deserve hanging, not daring to tell him what was in my heart concerning points of Religion. After a long discourse I found the Provinciall inexorable, and halfe angry, telling me that he and that whole Province had cast their eyes upon me, and honoured me, and were ready and willing to promote me further, and that I would shew my selfe very ungratefull unto them, if I should forsake them for my owne nation and people, whom I had not knowne from my young and tender age. I perceived there was no more to be said, and all would be in vaine, and so resolved to take my best opportunity, and with my Licence from Rome to come away unknowne unto him. But for the present I humbly beseeched him to remove me from Amatitlan, for that I found my selfe unable to undergoe that great charge, and too weake for that strong worke, that was then building. With much adoe he would be brought to this, alleadging what an honour it was to be a Founder and builder of a new Cloister, in whose walls my very name would be engraven to posterity; all which I told him I regarded not, but estemed more of my health and a quiet mind, then of such preferments and vanities. Upon which at last he condescended to my request, and gave me order to goe to Petapa, and that the Vicar of Petapa should goe to finish the worke of Amatitlan. In Petapa I lived above a twelve moneth, with great ease, pleasure and content for all things worldly and outward; but within I had still a worme of Conscience, gnawing this gourd that shadowed and delighted me with worldly contentment. Here I grew more and more troubled concerning some points of Religion, dayly wishing with David, that I had the wings of a Dove, that I might flie from that place of dayly Idolatry into England, and be at rest. I resolved therefore to put on a good courage, and relie wholly upon my God, knowing that the journey was hard and dangerous, and might bring shame and trouble unto me, if I should be taken in the way flying and brought back to Guatemala; here I weighed the affliction and reproach which might ensue unto me, after so much honor, pleasure, and wealth which I had enjoyed for about twelve yeers in that Countrey; but in another balance of better consideration, I weighed the trouble of a wounded Conscience, and the spirituall joy and comfort that I might enjoy at home with the people of God, and so resolutely concluded upon that place of Heb. 11. 25, 26, 27. with Moses, to choose rather to suffer affliction with the people of God (who as Paul well observeth, I Thes. 3. 3. are appointed thereunto; and again Phil. 1. 29. unto whom it is given in the behalfe of Christ, not onely to beleeve in him, but also to suffer for his sake) then to enjoy the pleasures of sinne for a season; esteeming the reproach of Christ greater riches then the treasures in Egypt. So for faith and a safe conscience I now purposed likewise with Moses to forsake Egypt, not fearing the wrath of the President the Kings owne Deputy, nor of the Provinciall, and my best friends; but to indure all this (if I should be taken) as seeing him who is invisible. I thought this was a businesse not to be conferred with flesh and blood, lest the best friend knowing of it should betray me; yet on the other side, I thought it hard to flie alone without some friend for the first two or three daies journey; and besides having many things to sell away to make mony of, I thought I were better to imploy some trusty friend, then to doe all alone. I thought of none fitter then Miguel Dalva, whom by long experience I knew to be true and trusty, and that a small mony matter would content him; whom I sent for to Pinola, and charging him with secrecy, I told him I had a journey for my conscience sake to make to Rome (I would not tell him that I intended England, lest the good old Black-more should grieve thinking never more to see me, and for the love he bare me, and interest he had many times from me, he should by discovering my intent, seek to stop me) which I would have none to know of but himselfe, not doubting but to returne againe, as he knew many had taken the like journey, and returned within two yeers.
The Black-more offered himselfe to goe with me, which I refused, telling him that the seas would be too hard for his old age to endure, and that as a Black-more in foraine Countries he might be stopped and apprehended for a fugitive; which reason he liked well, and offered himselfe to goe with mee as farre as the sea side; for which I thanked him and employed to sell me away some Mules, Wheat, and Maiz which I had, and what else might well passe through his hands. As for many rich pictures which hung in my chamber, I thought the Towne of Petapa would buy them for their Church, and propounded it unto the Governour, who willingly accepted of them. Most of my bookes, chests, cabinets, quilts, and many good peices of houshold-stuffe, by the paines and industry of Miguel (whom I kept with me for the space of two moneths before I came away) I sold to Guatemala, reserving onely two Peraca's or leatherne chests, with some bookes and a quilt for my journey. When I had sold all that I intended, I found I had in Spanish mony neer nine thousand peeces of eight, which I had got in twelve yeers that I lived in that Country. So much mony I thought would be too combersome for a long journey; whereupon I turned above four thousand of them into pearles and some pretious stones, which might make my carriage the lighter; the rest I laid up some in bags, some I sowed into my quilt, intending in the way to turne them into Spanish Pistols. Thus the chiefe provision being made of mony, I tooke care for Chocolatte and some Conserves for the way, which were soon provided. Now because I considered that my flight the first week must be with speed, and that my chests could not post day and night as my selfe intended to doe; I thought of sending my carriage four dayes at least before me; and not daring to trust any Indian of Petapa, I sent to Mixco for one speciall Indian friend whom I had there, who knew the way that I was to travaile very well; to whom I opened my mind, and offered what mony I knew would well content him, and at midnight sent him away with two Mules, one for himselfe, and another for my chests, wishing him to keep on travelling towards St. Miguel, or Nicaragua till I overtooke him. I gave him the advantage of four daies and nights, and then resolutely with my good Blackmore in my company leaving the key of my chamber in my doore, and nothing but old papers within, when all the Indians where fast sleep, I bad adieu unto Petapa, and to the whole valley, and to all my friends throughout America.
The chiefe thing which troubled me in my resolved purpose to come home, was the choice of the safest way; which made me utterly forsake the Gulfe (though the easiest way of all, and that sea neerest to the place where I lived) for that I knew I should meet there with many of my acquaintance, and the setting out of the ships was so uncertain, that before they departed, order might come from Guatemala to stop me; if I should go by land through Comayagua to Truxillo, and there wait for the ships, likewise I feared lest the Governour of that place by some item from the President of Guatemala might examine me, and send me backe, and that the Masters of the ships might have charge given them not to receive me into their ships. If I should goe backe to Mexico and Vera Cruz, then I called to mind, how I was troubled in that long journey, when I came first to Chiapa in company of friends, and that now alone I should certainly be much put to it, for I would not carry Miguel Dalva so far by land with me. Wherefore rejecting these three wayes, I chose the fourth, which was by Nicaragua and the Lake of Granada; and therefore I deferred my journey till the week after Christmas, knowing that the time of the frigats setting out from that lake to the Havana was commonly after the middle of January, or at Candlemas at the furthest, whither I hoped to reach in very good time. Now that I might by no means be suspected to have taken this way; before I went I left by the hand of Miguel Dalva a letter to a friend of his to be delivered to the Provinciall in Guatemala, foure dayes after my departure, wherein I kindly tooke my leave of him, desiring him not to blame me nor to seeke after me; and whereas I had a sufficient Licence from Rome, and could not get his, that I thought I might with a safe Conscience goe where I was born, leaving Linguists enough to supply my place amongst the Indians. And because he should not make enquiry after me by Nicaragua, I dated and subscribed my letter to him from the Towne of St. Antonio Suchutepeques, which was the way to Mexico and quite contrary to Nicaragua.
The next day after Twelfth day, being the seventh of January, 1637. at midnight I set out of Petapa upon a lusty Mule (which afterwards in the way I sold for fourscore peeces of eight) with Miguel Dalva alone; and the first part of the way being very hilly we could not goe so fast as our hearts would have posted; for it was breake of day before we could get to the top of the mountaine, which is called Serro Redondo, or the round hill; which is much mentioned in that Countrey, for the good pasture there which serveth for the Cattell and Sheep, when the valleys below are burnt and no grasing left for Beasts. This hill is also a great refuge to Travellers, for there they find good entertainment in a Venta, where wine and provision is sold, and is a great Lodge, for to lay up dry what carriages they bring; there is besides one of the best Estancia's or farmes of Cattell in the Countrey, where of Goats and Ewes milke is made the best cheese thereabouts. This round hill or mountaine is five leagues from Petapa, where I feared I might meet with some people of Petapa, and therefore the day now dawning I made haste by it, leaving in the lodge asleep many Indians, who attended on two Spanish Requa's of Mules, which that day were to goe to Petapa; foure leagues further from this Serro Redondo is a Towne of Indians called Los Esclavos, or the Slaves, not that now they are more slaves then the rest of the Indians, but because in the old time of Montezuma the Emperour, and the Indian Kings that were under him, the people of this Towne were more slaves then any other, for from Amatitlan (which is so called from Amat, which in the Mexican tongue signifieth Letter, and Itlan which signifieth Towne, for that it was the Towne of Letters as some say, for a rine of a tree, whereon they were wont formerly to write and expresse their minds, or because it was the place whither from all parts letters were sent to be carried about the Countrey, and to Peru) these Indians of the Towne of Esclavo's or slaves, were commanded as slaves to goe all about the Countrey with letters, or whatsoever else they should be charged with; and they were bound constantly to send every week so many of their Towne (as were appointed) unto Amatitlan, there to wait and attend the pleasure of that Towne for the conveying of letters, or any carriages to other parts.
This Towne of los Esclavos standeth in a bottome by a river, over the which the Spaniards have built a very strong stone Bridge to goe in and out of the Town, for otherwise with mules there is no passing by reason of the violent and rapid streame of the water, and many rocks in the River, from which the water falleth down with great force. From this Town (where wee onely stayed to drink a cup of Chocolatte and to bait our mules) wee went on that day to Aguachapa, being ten leagues further, and not farre from the South Sea, and the port called De la Trinidad; whither wee came towards Evening, having that day and part of the night travelled about threescore English miles up hils, and upon stony wayes from the Esclavo's unto this Town; which is much mentioned in that Country for two things. The one is for the earthen ware which is made there (as some think) exceeding that of Mixco. The other is for a place within a mile and a halfe from the Town, which the Spaniards doe credibly report and beleeve to be a mouth of hell. For out of it there is constantly ascending a thick black smoak smelling of Brimstone, with some flashes now and then of fire; the earth from whence this smoak ariseth is not high, but low. None ever durst draw nigh to find out the truth and ground of it; for those that have attempted to doe it, have been stricken down to the ground and like to lose their lives. A friend of mine a Fryer (whom I thought verily I might beleeve) upon his oath affirmed unto me, that travelling that way with a Provinciall hee resolved to goe unto the place, and satisfie himselfe of the ground and cause of the strange talke which was every where about the Country concerning that smoke. He went within a quarter of a mile of it, and presently, hee said, he heard a hideous noise, which together with the stench of the fiery smoke and brimstone, struck him into such a fear that he was like to fall to the ground, and retiring himself back with all speed was taken with a burning Feaver, which was like to cost him his life. Others report that drawing neer unto it, they have heard great cries as it were of men and women in torment, noise of iron, of chaines, and the like, which (how simply I leave it to my Judicious Reader) maketh them beleeve that it is a mouth of hell. Of my knowledge I will say no more, but that I saw the smoke, and asked the Indians what was the cause of it; and if ever they had been neer unto it? And they answered mee, that they could not imagine what might bee the cause of it, neither durst they draw nigh unto it; and that they had seen Travellers, attempting to goe neere it, and that they were all stricken either to the ground, or with some suddaine amazement, or Feaver. I told them that I would walke thither my self, and they desired mee that I would not, if I loved my life. It was not yet for all this report the feare of being so neer the Spaniards hell (as they call it) that made me haste with speed out of that Town, but fear of some messenger that might come after mee to stop my journy. For at midnight I departed from thence, and went to breake my fast to a great Town called Chalchuapan, where the Indians made very much of mee, being Pocomanes, who spake the Poconchi or Pocoman tongue which I had learned. They would willingly have had me to stay with them and preach unto them the next Sabbath, which I would have done, had not a better designe called upon mee to make haste.
Here I was troubled, how I should get through St. Salvador, which was a City of Spaniards, and wherein there was a Cloister of Dominicans, whom I feared most of all, because I was known by some of them. My resolution was therefore when I came neere unto the City, to turn out of my way to a Spaniards Farm as if I had lost my way, and there to delay the time till Evening in drinking Chocolatte, discoursing, and baiting my mules well, that so I might travell all that night, and bee out of the reach of that City, and Fryers (who lived in Indian Towns about it) the next morning, early. This City of St. Salvador is poore, not much bigger then Chiapa, and is governed by a Spanish Governour. It standeth forty leagues at least from Guatemala, and towards the North Sea side, is compassed with very high mountains, which are called Chuntales, where the Indians are very poore. In the bottome where the City standeth there are some Trabiches of Sugar, some Indigo made, but the chief Farmes are Estancia's of Cattell. Towards Evening I departed from that Farm where I had well refreshed my selfe and my Mule, and about eight of the clock I rid through the City not being known by any body. My purpose was to bee the next morning at a great River, called Rio de Lempa, some ten leagues from St. Salvador, for within two leagues of it there lived in an Indian Town a Fryer belonging to the Cloister of St. Salvador who knew mee very well. But such haste I made that before break of the day I passed through that Town, and before seven of the clock I was at the River, where I found my Indian of Mixco ready to passe over with my carriage, who that morning by three of the clock had set out of that Town two leagues off. I was not a little glad to have overtaken my Chests, wherein was most of my treasure. There I sate down a while by the River whilst my mules grazed, and my Indian struck fire and made me Chocolatte. This River of Lempa is held the broadest, and biggest in all the Jurisdiction belonging unto Guatemala; there are constantly two Ferry Boats to passe over the Travellers, and their Requa's of Mules. This River is privileged in this manner, that if a man commit any hainous crime or murther on this side of Guatemala, and San Salvador, or on the other side of St. Miguel, or Nicaragua, if hee can flie to get over this River, he is free as long as hee liveth on the other side, and no Justice on that side whither hee is escaped can question or trouble him for the murther committed. So likewise for Debts hee cannot bee arrested. Though I thanked God I neither fled for the one, or for the other, yet it was my comfort that I was now going over to a priviledged Country, where I hoped I should bee free and sure, and that if any one did come after mee, hee would goe no further then to the River of Lempa. My Blackmore did much laugh at this my conceipt, and warranted mee that all would doe well. Wee Ferried safely over the River; and from thence went in company with my Indian to a little small Towne of Indians two leagues off, where wee made the best dinner that we had done from the Towne of Petapa, and willingly gave rest to all our mules till foure of the clocke in the afternoone; at which time wee set forth to another small Town little above two leagues off, through a plain, sandy, and Champaigne Country. The next day wee had but ten leagues to travaile to a Town called St. Miguel, which belongeth unto Spaniards, and though it bee not a City, yet is as bigge almost as San Salvador, and hath a Spanish Governour; in it there is one Cloister of Nuns, and another of Mercenarian Fryers, who welcomed mee unto their Cloister. For here I began to shew my face, and to think of selling away the Mule I rid on, being resolved from hence to goe by water or an Arm of the Sea, to a Town in Nicaragua called La Vieja. I would here have dismissed my Indian, but hee was loth to leave me untill I got to Granada, where hee desired to see mee shipped. I refused not his kind offer, because I knew hee was trusty and had brought my Chests well thither, and knew well the way to Granada. So I sent him by land to Realejo, or to La Vieja, which stand very neere together and thirty leagues by land from St. Miguel, and my self stayed that day and till the next day at noon in that Town, where I sold the mule, I rid on, because I knew that from Realejo to Granada I could have of the Indians a Mule for nothing for a dayes journey. My Blackmores mule I sent also by land with the Indian, and the next day went to the Gulfe, being three or foure miles from St. Miguel, where that afternoone I tooke Boat with many other passengers, and the next morning by eight in the morning was at La Vieja, which journey by land would have taken mee up neere three dayes. The next day my Indian came at night, and wee went to Realejo, (as I have observed before) a Haven very weak and unfortified on the South Sea; where if I would have stayed one fortnight I might have taken shipping for Panama, to goe from thence to Portabelo, and there stay for the Galeons from Spain. But I considered that the Galeons would not be there till June or July, and that so I should be at great charges in staying so long. But afterwards I wished I had accepted of that occasion, for I was at last forced to goe to Panama, and Portabelo. From hence to Granada I observed nothing, but the plainnesse and pleasantnesse of the way, which with the fruits and fertility of all things may well make Nicaragua the Paradise of America. Betweene Realejo and Granada standeth the City of Leon, neere unto a Vulcan of fire, which formerly burst out at the top, and did much hurt unto all the Country about; but since that it hath ceased, and now letteth the Inhabitants live without feare. Sometimes it smokes a little, which sheweth that as yet there is within some sulphurous substance.
Here it was that a Mercenarian Fryer thought to have discovered some great treasure, which might inrich himselfe and all that Country, being fully perswaded that the metall that burned within that Vulcan was Gold; whereupon hee caused a great Kettle to bee made, and hung at an iron chain to let it down from the top, thinking therewith to take up gold enough to make him Bishop and to inrich his poor kindred. But such was the power and strength of the fire within, that no sooner had hee let downe the Kettle, when it fell from the chain and from his hands being melted away.
This City of Leon is very curiously built, for the chief delight of the Inhabitants consisteth in their houses, and in the pleasure of the Country adjoyning, and in the abundance of all things for the life of man, more then in any extraordinary riches, which there are not so much injoyed, as in other parts of America. They are contented with fine gardens, with variety of singing birds, and parrets, with plenty of fish and flesh, which is cheap, and with gay houses, and so lead a delicious, lazy and idle life; not aspiring much to trade and traffique, though they have neer unto them the Lake, which commonly every yeere sendeth forth some Frigats to Havana by the North Sea, and Realejo on the South Sea, which to them might bee very commodious for any dealing and rich Trading in Peru, or to Mixco, if their spirits would carry them so farre: The Gentlemen of this City are almost as vaine and phantasticall as are those of Chiapa. And especially from the pleasure of this City, is all that Province of Nicaragua, called by the Spaniards Mahomets Paradise. From hence the way is plain and Levell to Granada, whither I got safely and joyfully, hoping that now I had no more journey to make by land, till I should land at Dover in England, and from thence post up to London. Two dayes after I had arrived at this place and rested my selfe, and injoyed the pleasant prospect of the Lake, I began to think of dismissing my Indian and Blackmore. But true and faithfull Miguel Dalva would by no meanes leave mee, till he saw me shipped; and that I had no more need of him by land; Likewise the Indian would willingly have stayed, but by no meanes I would permit him, for that I considered hee had a wife and children to looke to at home. Hee was as willing to return a foot, as to ride, because hee would have mee sell my mules, and make what mony I could of them; but I seeing the good nature of the Indian, would recompence his love with as much mony as might bee more beneficiall to him, then a tired Mule; which might have dyed in the way under him, and left him on foot; so I gave him money enough to bear his charges home, and to hire Mules at his one pleasure, and some to spare, when he came home. The Indian with many teares falling from his eyes, saying, hee feared hee should never more see mee, tooke his leave of mee the third day after wee arrived at Granada. My Blackmore and I being left alone, first began to thinke of selling away the two Mules, which had brought thither the Indian, and my Chests; for which I got fourscore and ten peeces of eight after so long a journey, and thought they were well sold. I would have had Miguel have sold away that whereon hee rid, (which was his own) and offered to buy him another that might better carry him back, but the loving and carefull Blackmore would not suffer mee to bee at such charges, considering the long journey which I was to make. After this, wee hearing that the frigats were not like to depart in a fortnight, thought of viewing well that stately and pleasant Towne a day or two, and then to betake our selves to some neer Indian Town, where wee might bee hid, (lest by the great resort of Requa's of Mules, which at that time brought Indigo and Cochinill from Guatemala to the Frigats, wee should bee discovered) and might now and then come to the Town to treat concerning my passing in one of the Frigats to the Havana or to Carthagena. What in that Town wee observed was, two Cloisters of Mercenarian and Franciscan Fryers, and one of Nuns, very rich; and one Parish Church, which was as a Cathedrall, for the Bishop of Leon did more constantly reside there then in the City. The houses are fairer then those of Leon, and the Town of more Inhabitants, among whom there are some few Merchants of very great wealth, and many of inferiour degree very well to passe, who trade with Carthagena, Guatemala, San Salvador, and Comayagua, and some by the South sea to Peru and Panama. But at this time of the sending away the frigats, that Town is one of the wealthiest in all the North Tract of America; for the Merchants of Guatemala fearing to send all their goods by the Gulfe of Honduras, for that they have been often taken by the Hollanders between that and Havana, think it safer to send them by the frigats to Carthagena, which passage hath not been so much stopped by the Hollanders as the other. So likewise many times the Kings treasure, and revenues (when there is any report of ships at sea, or about the Cape of St. Anthony) are this way by the Lake of Granada passed to Carthagena. That yeer that I was there, before I betooke my selfe to an Indian Towne, in one day there entred six Requa's (which were at least three hundred Mules) from St. Salvador and Comayagua onely, laden with nothing else but Indigo, Cochinil and Hides; and two dayes after from Guatemala came in three more, the one laden with silver, which was the Kings tribute from that Countrey; the other with Sugar, and the other with Indigo. The former Requa's I feared not; but the latter made me keep close within my lodging, lest going abroad, I should be knowne by some of those that came from Guatemala; who after they had delivered what they brought, presently departed, and with their departure set mee at liberty, who for their sakes was a voluntary prisoner within mine owne lodging. But fearing lest more of these Requa's might come and affright mee, I went to a Towne out of the rode, a league from Granada, and took my pleasure up and downe the Countrey where I was much feasted by the Mercenarian Friers, who enjoy most of those Towns. Amongst these I heard much of the passage in the frigots to Carthagena, which did not a little dishearten and discourage me. For although, whilst they saile upon the Lake, they goe securely and without trouble, yet when they fall from the Lake to the river (which there they call El Desaguadero) to goe out to the Sea, hic labor, hoc opus est, here is nothing but trouble, which sometimes makes that short voyage to last two moneths; for such is the fall of the waters in many places amongst the rockes, that many times they are forced to unlade the frigots, and lade them again with helpe of Mules which are there kept for that purpose, by a few Indians that live about the river, and have care of the Lodges made for to lay in the wares, whilest the frigots passe thorow those dangerous places to another Lodge, whither the wares are brought by Mules, and put againe into the frigots. Beside this trouble (which must needs be tedious to a passenger, to be thus stopped, who would willingly come soone to his journeys end) the abundance of gnats is such, which maketh him to take no joy in his voiage, and the heat in some places so intolerable, that many doe die before they get out to the sea. Though all this was terrible to me to hear, yet I comforted my selfe that my life was in the hands of the Lord, and that the frigots did commonly every yeer passe that way, and seldome any were lost. I went now and then to Granada to bargaine for my passage, and to know when the frigots would for certaine set out, and to provide my selfe of some dainties and Chocolatte for my journey, having agreed with a Master of a frigot for my diet at his table. The time was appointed within foure or five dayes; but suddainly all was crossed with a strict command from Guatemala, that the frigots should not goe out that yeer, because the President and whole Court was informed for certaine that some English or Holland ships was abroad at sea, and lay about the mouth of the river or Desaguadero waiting for the frigots of Granada, and that the said were sometimes lurking about the Islands of St. John, and St. Catharine (which then was our Providence) which made all the Merchants of the Countrey to feare and sweat with a cold sweat, and the President to be carefull for the Kings revenues, lest the losse of them should be imputed to his wilfull negligence, in stopping the frigots, whilst he might, and had warning given. This was but sad newes unto me, who knew not for the present, which way to dispose of my selfe. I began to thinke of the ship that was at Realejo ready to set out to Panama, thinking that would now be my best course, but enquiring after it, I was for certaine informed by some Merchants that it was newly gone. Then my eyes looked upon Comayagua and Truxillo, and upon the ships of Honduras, but these were but vaine and troubled thoughts, arising from a perplexed heart, for the ships were also gone from thence, without some small vessell or frigot might be there with newes from Havana or Carthagena (for those places send often word and notice of what ships are abroad at sea) but this also was a meer chance, and not to be trusted unto, as my friends did advise, and counsell me. Whereupon my perplexity more and more increased; onely my comfort was that there were more passengers besides my selfe, who I knew must take some course, and whom I also resolved to follow by sea, or land. Amongst us all we were once resolving to hire a frigot to carry us onely to Carthagena, but this would not bee granted, for no body would hazard his vessel and life for our sakes. Whilest we were thus distressed and perplexed enquiring about Granada of the Merchants what course we might take to get to Spaine that yeer, or to meet with the Havana or Carthagena, one that wished us well, counselled us to goe to Costarica, where at Carthago we should be sure to hear of some vessels bound for Portobel, either from the river called de los Anzuelos, or from the river called Suere, from whence every yeer went out some small frigots to carry Meale, Bacon, Fowles, and other provision for the Galeons to Portobel. This we thought was a hard and difficult journey, and of neer a hundred and fifty leagues, over mountaines and through desarts, where we should misse the pleasure, variety, and dainties of Guatemala and Nicaragua, and after all this peradventure might misse of an opportunity of any frigot bound to Portobelo. Yet so unwilling were we all to returne to Guatemala from whence we came, that we would rather go forward, and undergoe any difficulties, so that at last we might find any shipping to convey us where we might meet with the Galeons, which we knew were not to come to Portobel, till the month of June or July. We therefore agreed foure of us, three Spaniards and my selfe, to goe to Costarica, and there to trie our fortune. They had each of them (as my selfe had) carriage for one Mule, and none to ride on; but thought it their best way to buy each of them a Mule to carry them, which they hoped after their journey to sell againe at Costarica, and to get mony by them, and for their carriages to hire Mules and Indians from Towne to Towne, who also might serve to guide us through many dangerous places and passages, which we understood were in the way. Now I wished I had my Mule which I sold at San Miguel, or any one of the two which I sold before in Granada. But for my mony I doubted not, with the helpe of my Black-more, but I should find one for my purpose. I furnished my selfe very speedily, for fifty peeces of eight, of one which I feared not would performe my journey. My good and trusty Black-more would willingly have gone on with me, and further round the world if I would have permitted him; but I would not; but (thanked him heartily for what he had done, and gave him money enough in his purse, and dismissed him) hoping that the company of the three Spaniards would be sufficient comfort unto me.
Thus with one Indian to guide us we set four of us out of Granada, enjoying for the two first daies more of the pleasure of that Mahomets paradise Nicaragua, finding the way for the most part plain, the Townes pleasant, the Countrey shady, and every where fruits abounding. The second day after we set out, we were much affrighted with a huge and monstrous Caiman or Crocodile, which having come out of the Lake (which we passed by) and lying crosse a puddle of water bathing himselfe, and waiting for some prey, as we perceived after, whom we not knowing well at the first, but thinking that it had been some tree that was felled or fallen, passed close by it; when on a suddain we knew the scales of the Cayman, and saw the monster stir and move, and set himself against us; wherewith we made hast from him; but he thinking to have made some of us his greedy prey, ran after us, which when we perceived, and that he was like to overtake us, we were much troubled, untill one of the Spaniards (who knew better the nature & quality of that Beast then the rest) called upon us to turn on one side out of the way, and to ride on straight for a while, and then to turn on another side; and so to circumflex our way, which advice of his without doubt saved mine, or some of the others lives, for thus we wearied that mighty monster and escaped from him, who (had we rid out straightway) had certainly overtaken us, and killed some mule or man, for his straight forward flight was as swift as our Mules could run; but whilst he turned and wheeled about his heavy body, we got ground and advantage till we left him far behind us; and by this experience we came to know the nature and quality of that beast, whose greatnesse of body is no hinderance to run forward as swift as a Mule; but otherwise, as the Elephant once laid down is troubled to get up, so this monster is heavy and stiffe, and therefore much troubled to turne and wind about his body. We praised God who had that day delivered us, and riding for a while by the side of the lake, we were watchful that we might not fall again into the like danger. But the greatnesse of this lake of Granada may from hence be knowne, in that the second and third day of our journey, being at least threescore miles from whence we set out, we now and then found our way lying by it. After that wee had wholly lost the sight of it, we began to enter into rough and craggy wayes, declining more to the South then to the North sea. And in all the rest of our journey to Carthago, we observed nothing worth committing to posterity, but onely mighty woods and trees on the South sea side, very fit for to make strong ships, and many mountaines and desert places, where we lay sometimes two nights together, either in woods or open fields, far from any Town or habitation of Indians, yet for our comfort in these so desert places we had stil a guide with us, and found lodges, which by the command of the neerest Justices had been set up for such as travelled that way. We came at last through thousand dangers to the city of Carthago, which we found not to be so poor as in richer places, as Guatemala and Nicaragua it was reported to be. For there we had occasion to inquire after some Merchants for exchange of gold and silver, and wee found that some were very rich, who traded by Land and Sea with Panama, and by Sea with Portobelo, Carthagena, and Havana, and from thence with Spain. This City may consist of foure hundred Families, and is governed by a Spanish Governour; It is a Bishops Sea, and hath in it three Cloisters, two of Fryers, and one of Nuns. Here we began to enquire after that which had brought us through so many Mountaines, Woods and deserts, to wit, after some speedy occasion of shipping our selves for Portobelo or Carthagena; and according to our desires wee understood of one Frigat almost ready to set out from the River called De los Anzuelos, and another from the River Suere; and being well informed that Suere would bee the best place for us to Travaile unto by reason of more provision in the way, more Towns of Indians, and Estancia's of Spaniards, we resolved within foure dayes after wee had rested in Carthago, to undertake a new journey towards the North Sea. Wee found that Country mountainous in many places, yet here and there some Valleys where was very good corn, Spaniards living in good Farmes, who as well as the Indians bred many hogs; but the Townes of Indians we found much unlike to those which wee had left behind in Nicaragua and Guatemala; and the people in curtesie and civility much differing from them, and of a rude and bold carriage and behaviour towards us; yet they are kept under by the Spaniards, as much as those whom I have formerly spoken of about Guatemala. Wee came in so good a time to the River Suere, that wee stayed there but three dayes in a Spanish Farm neere unto it, and departed.
The Master of the Frigat was exceeding glad of our company, and offered to carry mee for nothing, but for my prayers to God for him, and for a safe passage; which hee hoped would not bee above three or four daies sailing. What hee carried was nothing but some Hony, Hides, Bacon, meal and fowles. The greatest danger he told us of, was the setting out from the River, (which runs in some places with a very strong stream, is shallow and full of rocks in other places) till wee come forth to the maine Sea. Whither we got out safely and had not sailed on above twenty leagues, when we discovered two ships making towards us; our hearts began to quake, and the Master himselfe of the Frigat wee perceived was not without feare, who suspected that they were English, or Holland Ships; wee had no guns nor weapons to fight with, save onely foure or five Muskets and half a dozen Swords; wee thought the wings of our nimble Frigat might be our best comfort, and flying away our chiefest safety. But this comfort soon began to fail us, and our best safety was turned into neer approaching danger; for before wee could flie on five leagues towards Portobel, wee could from our Top Mast easily perceive the two Ships to be Hollanders, and too nimble for our little Vessell, which presently one of them (which being a Man of Warre, was too much and too strong for our weaknesse) fetcht up, and with a thundring Message made us strike Saile. Without any fighting wee durst not but yeeld, hoping for better mercy. But O what sad thoughts did here run to and fro my dejected heart, which was struck down lower then our Saile? How did I sometimes look upon Deaths frighting visage? But if again I would comfort and incourage my selfe against this feare of Death; how then did I begin to see an end of all my hopes of ever more returning to my wished and desired Country? How did I see that my treasure of Pearles, pretious Stones, and peeces of Eight, and golden Pistols, which by singing I had got in twelve yeers space, now within one halfe houre ready to be lost with weeping, and become a sure prey to those who with as much ease as I got them, and with laughing were ready to spoile mee of all that with the sound of Flutes, Waits and Organs I had so long been hording up? Now I saw I must forcedly and fainedly offer up to a Hollander what superstitious, yea also forced and fained offerings of Indians to their Saints of Mixco, Pinola, Amatitlan and Petapa had for a while enriched mee. My further thoughts were soone interrupted by the Hollanders who came abord our Frigat with more speed then wee desired. Though their Swords, Muskets and Pistols did not a little terrifie, yet wee were somewhat comforted, when wee understood who was their chief Captaine and Commander, and hoped for more mercy from him, who had been born and brought up amongst Spaniards, then from the Hollanders, who as they were little bound unto the Spanish Nation for mercy, so did wee expect little from them. The Captain of this Holland Ship which took us was a Mulatto, born and bred in Havana, whose Mother I saw and spoke with afterwards that same yeer, when the Galeons struck into that Port to expect there the rest that were to come from Vera Cruz. This Mulatto for some wrongs which had been offered unto him from some commanding Spaniards in the Havana, ventured himself desperately in a boat out to the Sea, where were some Holland Ships waiting for a prize, and with Gods helpe getting unto them, yeelded himself to their mercy, which hee esteemed farre better then that of his own Country-men, promising to serve them faithfully against his owne Nation, which had most injuriously and wrongfully abused, yea and (as I was afterwards informed) whipped him in the Havana.
This Mulatto proved so true and faithful in his good services unto the Hollanders, that they esteemed much of him, marryed him to one of their Nation, and made him Captain of a Ship under that brave and gallant Hollander whom the Spaniards then so much feared, and named, Pie de Palo, or Woodden Leg. This famous Mulatto it was that with his Sea Souldiers borded our Frigat, in the which hee had found little worth his labour, had it not been for the Indians offerings which I carryed with mee, of which I lost that day the worth of four thousand Patacons or peeces of eight in pearles, and pretious stones, and neer three thousand more in money. The other Spaniards lost some hundreds a peece, which was so rich a prize, that it made the Hollanders stomach loath the rest of our grosse provision of Bacon, Meale and Fowles, and our money tasted sweeter unto them, then the Hony which our Frigat also afforded them. Other things I had (as a Quilt to lie on, some Bookes, and Lamina's, which are pictures in brasse, and clothes) which I begged of that Noble Captaine the Mulatto, who considering my Orders and calling, gave mee them freely, and wished me to bee patient, saying that hee could doe no otherwise then he did with my mony and Pearles, and using that common Proverbe at Sea, Oy por mi, manana por ti, to day fortune hath been for mee, to morrow it may bee for thee: or to day I have got what to morrow I may lose again. Here I made use also of that common saying, that il gotten goods never thrive, and perceived it was the will of my heavenly Father to take from me what so unlawfully by superstitious and idolatrous Masses, by Offerings unto Idols and Statues of Saints I had got amongst the Indians. I offered in lieu of those former offerings my will unto my Lord Gods will, desiring him to grant mee patience to bear that great losse. I confesse, though it was very crosse to flesh and blood, yet I found an inward spirituall strengthning from above, and to be very true what Paul writes to the Hebrews in the 12 Chapter, and Verse 11. saying, No chastening for the present seemeth to bee joyous, but grievous; neverthelesse afterward it yeeldeth the peaceable fruit of righteousnesse unto them which are exercised thereby: for that very day I found my inward man quiet and peaceable with a full and totall submission unto the holy will of God, which I desired might bee done in earth, in the Sea, and performed and obeyed by me at that present, as it is alwayes done in heaven. And although this was my best and chief comfort, yet from the creature by the Creators permission I had also some comfort left in a few pistols, some single, some double, which I had sowed up in my Quilt (which the Captain restored unto mee, saying it was the bed I lay in) and in the doublet which I had at that present, which mounted to almost a thousand Crownes, and in their searching was not found out. After the Captain and Souldiers had well viewed their prize, they thought of refreshing their stomacks with some of our provision; the good Captaine made a stately dinner in our Frigat, and invited mee unto it, and knowing that I was going towards the Havana, besides many other brindi's or healths, hee drank one unto his mother, desiring mee to see her, and to remember him unto her, and how that for her sake hee had used mee well and courteously in what hee could; and further at Table hee said that for my sake hee would give us our Frigat that wee might return again to land, and that I might find out from thence some safer way and means to get to Portobelo, & to continue on my journey unto Spain. After dinner I conferred with the Captain alone, and told him that I was no Spaniard, but an English man born, shewing him the Licence which I had from Rome to goe to England, and that therefore I hoped, not being of an enemy nation to the Hollanders, he would restore unto me what goods were mine. But all this was of little consequence with him, who had already taken possession of mine, and all other goods in the ship: he told me, I must suffer with those, amongst whom I was found, and that I might as wel claime all the goods in the ship for mine. I desired him then to carry me along with him to Holland, that from thence I might get to England, which also he refused to doe, telling me that he went about from one place to another, and knew not when he should goe to Holland, and that he was daily ready to fight with any Spanish ship, and if he should fight with the Spaniards whilst I was in his ship, his souldiers in their hot blood might be ready to doe me a mischiefe, thinking I would doe them harm, if in fight they should be taken by the Spaniards. With these his answers I saw there was no hope of getting againe what now was lost, therefore (as before) I commended my selfe againe to Gods providence and protection. The Souldiers and Mariners of the Holland ship, made hast that afternoone, to unlode the goods of our Frigat into their Man of warre, which tooke them up that, and part of the next day, whilst we as prisoners were wafting up and down the sea with them. And whereas we thought our mony had satisfied them enough, and to the full, we found the next day that they had also a stomack to our fowles and Bacon, and wanted our Meale to make them bread, and our hony to sweeten their mouthes, and our Hydes for shooes and bootes; all which they tooke away, leaving me my Quilt, Bookes, and brasse pictures, and to the Master of the frigat some small provision, as much as might carry us to land, which was not far off, and thus they tooke their leaves of us, thanking us for their good entertainment. And we weary of such guests, some praying to God that they might never entertaine the like againe, some cursing them all, and especially the Mulatto to hell, calling him Renegado; some thanking God for their lives which were given them for a prey, we all returned again to Suere from whence we had set out, and going up the river, were almost like to bee cast away, and lose our lives, after we had lost our goods. When we came to land, the Spaniards about the Countrey pitied our case, and helped us with almes gathering a Collection for us. The three Spaniards of my company lost all their mony and most of their best clothes, yet they had reserved some bills of Exchange for money to be taken up at Portobelo; which I wished I had also for what I had lost. For the present we knew not what course to take; we thought of going to Rio de los Anzuelos, but we were informed that certainly the frigats there were either gone, or would be gone before we could get thither; and if they stayed not with the newes of the Hollanders ships at sea, they either already were or would be their prize, as we had been. We resolved therefore with the charitable assistance of the Spaniards about the Countrey to returne again to Carthago, and from thence to take some better directions. In the way we conferred what we had saved, the Spaniards bragged yet of their bills of Exchange, which would yeeld them mony at Carthago, I would not let them know what I had saved, but somewhat I told them I had kept; and we agreed all the way we went to signifie nothing but poverty and misery, that the Indians and Spaniards in the way might pitty and commiserate us, and our great losses. When we came to Carthago we were indeed much pittied, and Collections were made for us; and as it was expected from mee, that I should sing againe at the Altars (who truely could rather have cried to see and consider my many misfortunes and disasters, which I desired might at last by a safe returne to England, prove the trials of the faith I intended to search out) and that I should preach wheresoever I came; so by these two waies, of singing and of hudling over Dominus vobiscum and the rest of the Masse, and by accepting of what Sermons were recommended unto me, I began againe to store my selfe with monies. Yet I knew that in such a poore Countrey as that was, where I was little knowne, I could not possibly get enough to bring me home with credit into England, and therefore the cunning enemy finding me to stand upon my credit, began strongly to tempt me to returne againe to Guatemala (where I doubted not but I should be welcomed and entertained by my friends) and to settle my selfe there, untill I had againe by sacrilegious, base, superstitious, and idolatrous means, and works, made up a new purse to returne with credit home.
But I perceiving that God already had shewed himselfe angry, and justly taken from me, what by unlawfull meanes I had in twelve yeers obtained, bad Satan avaunt, purposing never more to returne to the flesh pots of Egypt, and to goe still home-wards, though in the way I did beg my bread. Yet (lest I might be suspected amongst the Spaniards, and troubled for not exercising my orders and function) I resolved to take what as to a stranger and traveller for preaching or any other exercise might be offered unto me.
Thus with courage resolving to goe on still towards England, I enquired at Carthago which way I might get to Portobelo. But this doore of hope was fast shut up; though my trust in Gods providence was not weakened. In this season, there came to Carthago some two or three hundred Mules unsadled or unloaden with some Spaniards, Indians, and Black-mores, from the parts of Comayagua and Guatemala to convey them to Panama by land, over the mountaines of Veragua there to be sold. This is the yeerly and onely trading by land, which Guatemala, Comayagua, and Nicaragua, hath with Panama over that narrow Isthmus lying between the North, and South sea, which is very dangerous by reason of the craggy waies, rockes, and mountaines, but more especially, by reason of many Heathens, Barbarians and savage people, which as yet are not conquered by the Spaniards, and sometimes do great hurt and mischief, and kill those that with Mules passe through their Countrey, especially if they misdemean themselves, or please them not well. Yet for all these difficulties, I was entertaining a thought to go along with those Mules and Spaniards, which were now on their way by land to Panama. The three Spaniards were halfe of the same mind; but the providence of God who better ordereth and disposeth mans affaires then he himselfe, disappointed these our thoughts for our good and safety, as after we were informed; for we heard for certain at Nicoya, that some of those Mules and Spaniards were killed by the Barbarians and savage Indians, amongst whom my life might have been lost, if I had attempted that hard and dangerous journey; from which many well wishers at Carthago did disswade me, both for the danger of the Indians, and for the difficulties of the waies and mountaines, which they told me the weakenesse of my body would never indure. After we had wholly desisted from this Land journey, the best counsell, that we had from some Merchants our friends, was to try whether Mar del Zur, or the South sea, would favour our designe and journey, better then the Mar del Norte, or the North sea had done; who wished us to goe to Nicoya, and from thence to Chira, and to the Golfo de Salinas, where they doubted not but we should find shipping to Panama. Wee were willing to follow any good advise and counsell; yet we knew that this was the last shift which we could make, and the non plus ultra of our hopes, and that if here we should be disappointed, we could expect no other way ever to get to Panama, except we should venture our lives most desperately over the mountaines of Veragua, and by land without any guide or company through the Countrey of the Barbarians, (who before had slaine some Spaniards passing that way) or else should returne againe, all the way that we had come, to Realejo, where our hopes might be frustrated, and peradventure no shipping found for Panama, without a yeers waiting for it.
We resolved therefore to follow this our friends counsell, and to goe yet to Nicoya, and from thence to Golfo de Salinas, where laughing, I told the three Spaniards of my company, that if we were disappointed, we would like Hercules set up a Pillar to eternize our fame, with our names, and this inscription upon it, Non plus Ultra, for that beyond it there was no other Port, Haven, or place, to take shipping to Panama; neither could any man have done more (nor ever did any English man in that Countrey doe more then my selfe) then wee had done, but especially my selfe, who from Mexico had thus travelled by land to Nicoya at lead six hundred leagues, or eighteen hundred English miles straight from North to South, besides what I had travelled from Vera Cruz to Mexico, and from Guatemala to Vera Paz, and to Puerto de Cavallos, or Golfo dulce, and from thence to Truxillo, and from thence back againe to Guatemala, which was at least thirteen or fourteen hundred English miles more, which I thought to eternize upon a pillar at Nicoya. But what there was not erected, I hope here shall be eternized, and that this my true and faithfull History shall bee a Monument of three thousand, and three hundred miles travelled by an English man, within the main land of America, besides other sea navigations to Panama, from Portobel to Carthagena, and from thence unto the Havana. The way which we travelled from Carthago to Nicoya was very mountainous, hard, & unpleasant, for we met with few Estancia's of Spaniards, and few Indian Towns, and those very poor, smal, and all of dejected and wretched people. Yet Nicoya is a pretty Towne, and head of a Spanish government, where wee found one Justo de Salazar, Alcalde Maior, who entertained us very well, and provided lodgings for us for the time that wee should abide there, and comforted us with hopeful words, that though for the present there was no ship or frigat in the Golfe of Salinas, yet he doubted not, but very shortly one would come from Panama thither, for Salt and other commodities, as yeerly they were wont. The time of the yeer when we came thither, was a fit time for me to get againe some monies after my great losse; for it was in Lent which is the Friers chiefest harvest, who (as I have before observed) then by Confessions and by giving the Communion get many money offerings.
The time, and the Franciscan Frier who had the Pastorship and charge of that Towne, were both very commodious unto me, who could not refuse as long as I stayed there to exercise my function, lest I should bring a just cause of suspition and aspersion upon my selfe. The Frier of the Towne was a Portingal, who about three weeks before my comming thither had had a very great bickering and strife with Justo de Salazar the Alcalde Maior, for defending the Indians, whom Salazar did grievously oppresse, employing them in his, and his wifes service as slaves, and not paying them what for the sweat of their browes was due unto them, and commanding them to be from their home and from their wives, and from their Church upon the Sabbath, working for him as well that day as any other. Which the Frier not enduring, charged them in the pulpit, not to obey any such unlawfull commands from their Alcalde Maior. But Justo de Salazar (who had been trained up in warres and fighting, and had served formerly in the Castle of Milan) thought it a great disparagement unto him, now to be curbed by a Frier, and by such a one to be interrupted in his government of the Indians, and in the waies of his owne lucre and gaine. Therefore after many bitter words and defiances, which had passed between him and the Frier, he came one day resolutely to the Friers house with his sword drawne; and certainly had not the Frier been assisted by some of the Indians, he had killed him. The Frier being as hot as he, and standing upon his calling, Orders, and Preisthood, presuming that hee durst not touch him violently, lest his priviledge should bring an excommunication upon the striker and offendour, would not flie from him, but dared him boldly; which was a strong provocation to Salazars heat and passion, and caused him to lift up his sword, and aime his blow and stroke at the Frier, which fell so unhappily that with it he strucke of two of the Friers fingers, and had undoubtedly seconded another blow more hurtfull and dangerous to the Frier, had not the Indians interposed themselves, and shut up their Preist into his chamber. Justo was for this action excommunicated, yet for that he was a man of high authority, he soone got off his excommunication from the Bishop of Costarica and sent his complaint to the Chancery of Guatemala against the Frier, where with friends and mony he doubted not but to overcome the Mendicant Preist, as it happened after; for (as I was informed) hee caused the Frier to be sent for up to the Court, and there prevailed so much against him, that he got him to be removed from Nicoya. In this season the Frier kept his house and chamber, and would by no means goe out to the Church, either to say Masse, or to preach, or hear Confessions, (all which that time of the yeer did require of him) but had got one to helpe him; who alone not being able to performe so great a charge of many hundred Indians, Spaniards, Black-mores, and Mulatto's, who from the Countrey without, and from the Towne within expected to have their Confessions heard, their sins absolved, the word preached, and the Communion to be given them; hearing of my comming desired me to assist and helpe him, and that for my paines I should have my meat and drinke at his table, and a Crowne daily for every Masse, and whatsoever else the people should voluntarily offer, besides the Sermons, which should be well rewarded unto me. I staied in this Towne from the second week of Lent untill Easter weeke, where what with three Sermons at ten Crownes a peece, what with my daily stipend and many other offerings, I got about an hundred and fifty Crownes.
The weeke before Easter newes came of a frigat from Panama to Golfo de Salinas, which much comforted us, who already began to mistrust the delay. The Master of the frigat came to Nicoya, which is as Court thereabouts; and with him the three Spaniards and my selfe agreed for our passage to Panama. About Chira, Golfo de Salinas, and Nicoya, there are some farmes of Spaniards, few and very small Indian Townes, who are all like slaves employed by the Alcalde Maior, to make him a kind of thred called Pita, which is a very rich Commodity in Spain, especially of that colour wherewith it is dyed in these parts of Nicoya, which is a purple colour; for the which the Indians are here much charged to work about the Sea shore, and there to finde out certain shels, wherewith they make this purple dye.
There are also shels for other colours, which are not knowne to be so plentifully in any other place as here. About Chira and Golfo de Salinas the chief commodities are Salt, Hony, Maiz, some Wheat and Fowles, which every yeer they send by some few Frigats to Panama, which from thence come on purpose to fetch them with this purple coloured thred, or Pita, which I have spoken of. The Frigat which came when I was there, was soon laden with these Commodities, and with it we set out hoping to have been at Panama within five or six dayes. But as often before we had been crossed, so likewise in this short passage wee were striving with the Wind, Sea, and Corrientes, as they are called (which are swift streames as of a River) foure full weekes. After the first day that wee set out, wee were driven with a wind and storme towards Peru, till wee came under the very Æquinoctiall line, where what with excessive heat, what with mighty stormes, we utterly despaired of life. But after one week that we had thus run towards death, it pleased God in whom and by whom all creatures live, move, and have their being, to comfort us againe with hopes of life, sending us a prosperous gale, which drove us out of that Æquinoctiall heat, and stormy Sea, towards the Islands of Perlas and Puerta de Chame, lying on the South side of the Mountaines of Veragua, from whence wee hoped within two dayes at the most, to be at rest and Anchor at Panama. But yet these our hopes were frustrated, for there our wind was calmed, and we fell upon those strong Corrientes or streams, which drave us back in the night for the space of almost a fortnight as much as wee had sailed in the day. Had not God againe been merciful here unto us, we had certainly perished in this our striving with the stream; for although wee wanted not provision of food, yet our drink failed us so, that for foure dayes wee tasted neither drop of wine or water, or any thing that might quench our thirst, save onely a little hony which wee found did cause more thirst in us, which made mee and some others to drink our own Urine, and to refresh our mouthes with peeces of lead bullets, which did for a while refresh, but would not long have sufficed Nature, had not Gods good Providence sent us such a wind which in the day drave us quite off from those Corrientes. Our first thoughts were then to strike either to the Continent, or some Island of many which were about us to seek for water, finding our bodies weak and languishing; which the Captaine of the Ship would by no meanes yeeld unto, assuring us that that day hee would land us at Panama; but wee not being able to saile on without drink, unlesse wee should yeeld to have our dead and not live bodies landed where hee promised, thought it no good purchase though we might buy all Panama with our lives, which wee judged could not hold out another day; and seeing that the wind began to slacken, we all required him to strike into some Island for water; which he stubbornly refused and denyed to doe; whereupon the three Spaniards and some of the Mariners mutinied against him with drawn Swords, threatning to kill him if he betooke not himselfe presently to some Island. The good Master thought it bad sport to see Swords at his breast, and so commanded his Ship to bee turned to two or three Islands, which were not above two or three houres sail from us. When we drew nigh unto them, wee cast our Anchor, and our Cock-boat, and happy was hee that could first cast himself into it to be rowed to land to fill his belly with water. The first Island wee landed upon, was on that side unhabitable, where wee spent much time running to and fro, over heating our selves and increasing our thirst; thus whilst one ran one way, and another tryed another to find out some fountain, our hopes being frustrated and I lost in the Wood, and my shooes torne from my feet, with stony rocks, and many thornes and bushes in other places; my company betook themselves to the Cock-boat to try another Island, leaving mee alone, and lost in the Wood; out of which at last when I came, and found the Cock-boat gone from the shore, I began to consider myself a dead man, thinking that they had found water and were gone to Ship, and not finding mee would hoise up their sailes for Panama. Thus being dejected I cryed out to the Ship, which I perceived could not possibly hear my weak voyce, and running up and down the Rocks to see if I could discover the Cock-boat, I perceived it was not with the Ship, and espied it at the next Island. With this I began to hope better things of them that they would call for mee when they had gotten water; so I came down from the Rocks to the plain shore, where I found a shade of trees and amongst them some berries (which might have been poison, for I knew them not) wherewith I refreshed my mouth for a while; but my body so burned that I thought there with heat, weaknesse and faintnesse I should have expired and given up the Ghost. I thought by stripping my selfe naked and going into the Sea unto my neck, I might thus refresh my body, which I did, and comming out againe into the shade, I fell into a deep sleep, in so much that the Cock-boat comming for mee, and the company hollowing unto mee, I awaked not, which made them feare that I was dead or lost; till landing, one searched for mee one way, and another another, and so they found me, who might have been a prey to some wild Beast, or slept till the Frigat had gone away, and so have perished in a barren and unhabitable Island. When they awaked mee, I was glad to see my good company, and the first thing I enquired for, was, if they had got any water; they bad mee bee of good cheere and arise, for they had water enough, and Oranges and Lemmons from another Island, where they met with Spaniards that did inhabit it. I made haste with them to the Boat, and no sooner was I entred into it, but they gave mee to drink as much as I would. The water was warme and unsetled, for they could not take it up so but that they tooke of the gravell and bottome of the Fountain, which made it look very muddy; yet for all this (as though my life had depended upon it) I drank up a whole pot of it; which no sooner had I dranke, but such was the weaknesse of my stomack that it presently cast it up againe not being able to beare it. With this they wished me to eat an Orange or a Lemmon; but them also did my stomack reject; so to our Frigat wee went, and in the way I fainted so that the company verily thought I would die, before wee got aboard. When wee came thither I called againe for water, which was no sooner downe my stomack, but presently up again; they had mee to bed with a burning Feaver upon mee; where I lay that night expecting nothing but death, and that the Sea should bee my grave.
The Master of the Ship seeing the wind was turned, began to bee much troubled, and feared that with that wind he should never get to Panama. He resolved to venture upon a way, which never before hee had tryed; which was, to get between the two Islands which wee had searched for water, knowing that the wind, which on this side was contrary, on the other side of the Islands would bee favourable unto him. Thus towards the Evening hee tooke up Anchor and hoised up his sailes, and resolved to passe his Frigat between the two Islands; which how dangerous and desperate an attempt it was, the event witnessed. I lay in this season (as I may truely say) upon my death bed, not regarding which way the Master of the Ship, or fortune carried mee, so that the mercy of the Lord carryed my soule to heaven. No sooner had the Frigat steered her course between the narrow passage of the two Islands, when being carryed with the stream too much to the one side of the land it ran upon a Rock; so that the very stern was lifted up, and almost call out of the Pilots hands, who cryed out not to God, but unto the Virgin Mary saying, Ayudad nos Virgen Santissima, que si no aqui nos perecemos, help us, O most holy Virgin, for if not, here we perish. This, and the outcry of all that were in the Frigat gave unto mee an Alarm of death; from the which yet it pleased God by the meanes and diligence of the painefull Mariners to deliver mee and all the Company, for with much adoe most part of that night they haled from the Cock-boat the Frigat off from the Rock, after the streame had made it three severall times to strike upon it. After a very troublesome night in the morning wee got our little Ship out of all danger and from between the two Islands on the other side of them, where wee sailed prosperously towards Panama. That morning my stomack recovered some of its lost strength, and I began to eat and to drink, and to walk about, rejoycing much to see those pleasant Islands which wee sailed by. In the Evening wee got to Puerto de Perico; where wee cast Anchor, expecting to bee searched in the morning; but that night (the Master of our Ship having gone to shore) the wind turned and blew so strong that wee lost our Anchor, and and were driven back almost to la Pacheque and feared wee should bee carried out into the Ocean againe so farre that we should with great difficulty get to Panama. But that God whom the Sea and winds doe obey, turned againe that contrary wind into a prosperous gale, wherewith wee came once more unto Perico; and being searched wee went on with full sail to Panama; Being neere the Port and without an Anchor in our Ship the wind once more blew us back and had not the Ship Master sent us an Anchor, we had gon againe to Pacheque or further. But with that anchor we stayed all that night at Perico, wondring among our selves that so many crosses should befall us, which made some say that we were bewitched; others, that certainly there was amongst us some excommunicated person, whom they said if they knew of, they would hurle him over bord. Whilst they were in this discourse, the wind turned yet againe, and we levying our anchor went on to Panama, whither it pleased God that time safely to conduct us in. I being now well strengthened made no stay in that frigat, which I thought would have been my last abiding place in this world, but went to land, and betooke my selfe to the Cloister of the Dominicans, where I stayed almost fifteen daies viewing and reviewing that City; which is governed like Guatemala by a President and six Judges, and a Court of Chancery, and is a Bishops sea. It hath more strength towards the South sea, then any other Port which on that side I had seen, and some Ordnances planted for the defence of it; but the houses are of the least strength of any place that I had entred in; for lime and stone is hard to come by, and therefore for that reason, and for the great heat there, most of the houses are built of timber and bords; the Presidents house, nay the best Church walls are but bords, which serve for stone and bricke, and for tiles to cover the top. The heat is so extraordinary that a linnen cut doublet, with some slight stuffe or taffetie breeches is the common cloathing of the inhabitants. Fish, fruits and herbage for sallets is more plentifull there then flesh; the coole water of the Coco is the womens best drinke, though Chocolatte also, and much wine from Peru be very abounding. The Spaniards are in this City much given to sinne, loosenesse and venery especially, who make the Black-mores, (who are many, rich, and gallant) the chiefe objects of their lust. It is held to be one of the richest places in all America, having by land and by the river Chiagre commerce with the North sea, and by the South, trading with all Peru, East-India's, Mexico, and Honduras. Thither is brought the chiefe treasure of Peru in two or three great ships, which lie at anchor at Puerto de Perico some three leagues from the City; for the great ebbing of the sea at that place especially suffereth not any great vessell to come neerer, where daily the sea ebbs and falls away from the City two or three miles, leaving a mud, which is thought to cause much unhealthinesse in that place, being seconded with many other muddy and moorish places about the Town. It consisteth of some five thousand inhabitants, and maintaineth at least eight Cloisters of Nuns and Friers. I feared much the heats, and therefore made as much haste out of it as I could. I had my choice of company by land and water to Portobelo. But considering the hardnesse of the mountaines by land, I resolved to goe by the river Chiagre; and so at midnight I set out from Panama to Venta de Cruzes, which is ten or twelve leagues from it. The way is thither very plaine for the most part, and pleasant in the morning and evening.