The Viceroy sent a message to them desiring them to be quiet, and to betake themselves to their houses, certifying them that Tiroll was not in his Palace, but escaped out of a back doore. The rude multitude would not bee satisfied with this, being now set on by two or three Priests who were joyned with them, and so they began more violently to batter the Palace gates and walls, having brought pikes, and holbards, and long poles; others had got a few Pistols, and birding Peeces, wherewith they shot, not caring whom they killed or wounded in the Palace. It was wonderfull to see that none of the better sort, none of the Judges, no high Justice, no inferiour Officers durst or would come out to suppresse the multitude, or to assist the Viceroy being in so great danger; nay I was told by some shopkeepers who lived in the Market place, that they made a laughing businesse of it, and the people that passed by went smiling and saying, Let the boyes and youngsters alone, they will wright our wrongs, they will find out before they have done, both Tiroll and Mexia and him that protects them, meaning the Viceroy; but amongst them was much noted one Priest, named Salazar, who spent much shot and bullets, and more his spirits in running about to spie some place of advantage, which hee might soonest batter downe. They found it seemes the prison doores easier to open, or else with helpe within they opened them, and let out all the malefactors, who joyned with them to assault the Palace. The Viceroy seeing no helpe came to him from the City, from his friends, from the Judges of the Chancery, from the Kings high Justices, nor other Officers for the peace, went up to the Zoties of his Palace with his Guard and Servants that attended on him, and set up the Royall Standard, and caused a Trumpet to bee sounded to call the City to ayde and assist their King. But this prevailed not, none stirred, all the chief of the City kept within doores. And when the multitude saw the Royall Standard out, and heard the Kings name from the Zoties, they cryed out, and often repeated it, Viva el Rey, muera el mal govierno, mueran los des comulgados, that is to say, Our King live long, but let the evill government die, and perish, and let them die that are excommunicated. These words saved many of them from hanging afterwards, when the businesse was tried and searched into by Don Martin de Carrillo. And with these words in their mouths, they skirmished with them of the Zoties at least three houres, they above hurling downe stones, and they beneath hurling up to them and some shooting with a few Pistols and birding peeces at one another: and marke that in all this bitter skirmish there was not a peece of Ordnance shot, for the Viceroy had none for the defence of his Palace or person, neither had or hath that great City any for its strength and security, the Spaniards living fearelesse of the Indians, and (as they thinke) secure from being annoyed by any forraine Nation. There were slain in about six houres in all that this tumult lasted, seven or eight beneath in the Market place, and one of the Viceroy his Guard and a page in the Zoties above. The day drawing to an end, the multitude brought pitch and fire, and first fired the prison, then they set on fire part of the Palace, and burnt downe the chief gate. This made some of the City, of the Gentry, and of the Judges to come out, lest the fire should prevaile farre upon the City, and to perswade the people to desist, and to quench the fire. Whilest the fire was quenching, many got into the Palace, some fell upon the Viceroyes stables, and there got part of his mules and horses rich furnitures, others began to fall upon some chests, others to teare down the hangings, but they were soone perswaded by the better sort of the City, to desist from spoile or robbery, lest by that they should bee discovered; other searched about for Don Pedro Mexia, for Tiroll and the Viceroy. None of them could bee found, having disguised themselves and so escaped. Whither Don Pedro Mexia and Tiroll went, it could not bee knowen in many dayes; but certaine it was that the Viceroy disguised himselfe in a Franciscan habit, and so in company of a Fryer went through the multitude to the Cloister of the Franciscans, where hee abode all that yeer, (and there I saw him the yeere after) not daring to come out, untill hee had informed the King and Counsell of Spain, with what hath happened, and of the danger himselfe and the City was in, if not timely prevented. The King and Counsell of Spain took the businesse to consideration, and looked upon it as a warning peece, to a further mutiny and rebellion, and an example to other parts of America to follow upon any such like occasion, if some punishment were not inflicted upon the chief offendors. Wherefore the yeere following 1625. which was when I went to those parts, the King sent a new Viceroy the Marques of Serralvo to govern in the place of the Count of Gelves, and especially to aid and assist Don Martin de Carrillo a Priest, and Inquisitor of the Inquisition of Valladolid, who was sent with large Commission and authority to examine the foresaid tumult and mutiny, and to judge all offenders that should be found in it, yea and to hang up such as should deserve death. I was in Mexico in the best time of the tryall, and had intelligence from Don Martin de Carrillo his owne Ghostly father a Dominican Fryer of the chief passages in the examination of the businesse; and the result was, that if Justice should have beene executed rightly, most of the prime of Mexico would have suffered, for not comming in to the Royall Standard, when called by the sound of the Trumpet; the Judges some were put out of their places, though they answered that they durst not stirre out, for that they were informed that all the City would have risen against them if they had appeared in publick. The chief actors were found to bee the Criolians or Natives of the Countrey, who doe hate the Spanish Government, and all such as come from Spain; and reason they have for it, for by them they are much oppressed, as I have before observed, and are and will bee alwayes watching any opportunity to free themselves from the Spanish yoke. But the chief fomenters of the mutiny were found to bee the Bishops party the Preists; and so had not Salazar and three more of them fled, they had certainly been sent to the Gallies of Spain for Galley slaves; this judgment was published against them. There were not above three or foure hanged of so many thousands, and their condemnation was for things which they had stollen out of the Viceroys Palace. And because further inquiry into the rebellion would have brought in at least half the City either for actors, or counsellors, or fomentors, the King was well advised to grant a generall pardon. The Archbishops proceedings were more disliked in the Court of Spain, then the Viceroyes, and was long without any preferment; though, at last that there might be no exceptions taken by his party, nor cause given for a further stirring the embers to a greater combustion, the Councel thought fit to honor him in those parts where hee was born; and to make him Bishop of Zamora a small Bishoprick in Castile; so that his wings were clipt, and from Archbishop hee came to bee but Bishop, and from threescore thousand Crownes yeerely rent he fell to foure or five thousand onely a yeere. The count of Gelves was also sent to Spain, and well entertained in the Court, and therein made Master of the Kings horse, which in Spain is a Noblemans preferment.
And this History shewing the state and condition of Mexico, when I travelled to those parts I have willingly set down, that the Reader may by it bee furnished with better observations then my self (who am but a Neophyte) am able to deduct. Somewhat might bee observed from the Viceroyes covetousnesse; which doubtlesse in all is a great sinne, for as Paul well adviseth, I Tim. 6. 10. The love of mony is the root of all evill; but much more to bee condemned in a Prince or Governour; whom it may blind in the exercise of Justice and Judgment, and harden those tender bowels (which ought to bee in him) of a father and shepheard to his flock and children. Wee may yet from this Viceroyes practice and example against a chiefe head of the Romish Church, discover that errour of the Preists and Jesuites of England, who perswade the people here that no temporall Magistrate hath power over them, and that to lay hands on them in wrath and anger (being as they say Consecrated to God and his Altar) is ipso facto a deep excommunication; whereas wee see the contrary in this Viceroy a member of the Church of Rome, and yet exercising his temporall power against an Arch-Bishop, and by Tiroll taking him from the Church, and as his prisoner sending him with just wrath and anger to a forraine and remote place of banishment. But lastly it is my desire that the High and Honorable Court of Parliament which now is sitting for the good of this Kingdome, and for the good of it hath already pulled downe the Hierarchy of such Prelates and Archprelates, would looke upon the trouble and uproare which the keys of the Church in the hand of an undiscreet Preist brought upon that City of Mexico. Certainly as the strength of the Church well setled, and governed with subordination to the Magistrate, is likewise the strength of the Common-wealth; so on the other side the power of the Keyes in the Clergies hand to cast out what incestuous Corinthian they please, without the rest of the Corinthians consent, I Cor. 5. 4, 5. may prove dangerous and troublesome to the Common-weale and good. For if the Clergy may use by itselfe, without the overseeing eye of the Magistrates Commissioners, the power of the keyes; who shall bee free from their censures, that any way will oppose them? The poor and ignorant will not onely bee the object of their censures, but the rich and wise and noble. Ruler and Magistrate will also come under their censures; wherein I finde a Minister may then as a Pope encroach upon the highest Crowne of an Emperour. Nay certainly in England the thoughts of some such aspiring Ministers have been higher then the thoughts of this Arch-Bishop of Mexico over a Viceroy, the conceipt of their power with the Keyes have hoised them above their Prince, for I have heard one of them say, he knew not but that by the power of the keyes hee might as well excommunicate the King as any other private person. This conceit hath made the Pope of Rome feare no earthly Prince, Emperour, Ruler or Magistrate; nay this hath made him to bee feared and respected and honoured by Kings and Princes; And why may not the same power in the hands of a Protestant Clergy, make the meanest and the highest to feare and dread them? But some will say, the Word of God being the Touchstone wherewith they are to try what points may be the subjects of their censures, by such a light and guidance they are not like to erre. But they then being themselves the Judges of the sense and meaning of the Word, who shall oppose their judgment, and their ensuing censures? What if to their triall and judgment they shall bring any Law enacted by a High Court of Parliament, and shall judge it not according to the Word of God, and so presse it to the peoples consciences; threatning with their censures such as shall obey it? in such a case how may the power of the keyes unlock and open a doore to the people of rebellion against their lawfull Magistrates? Oh what dangers may befall a Common-wealth, when thus the Clergy shall stand over poor and rich, Subject and Magistrate, as Peters statue at Rome, with Crosse-keyes in his hand? What a rebellion did the Archbishop of Mexico cause by excommunicating Don Pedro Mexia first, and then the Viceroy? and how did the people fear his keyes more then their Viceroys temporall power and authority, siding with him against such as hee had excommunicated? What troubles did that Doctor Smith Bishop of Chalcedon bring among the Papists, small and great ones, not long agoe here in England, laying upon them by the power of the Keyes a censure of Excommunication, if they confessed to, or did entertaine and heare the Masse of any, that had not derived their authority from him? Then were they in open rebellion one against another; the Secular Preists against the Monkes, Fryers, and Jesuites, and the Laity all troubled, some siding with one, and some with another, untill Doctor Smith having thus kindled the fire, was faine to leave it burning, and to betake himself to Paris, and from thence to foment the dissention which with power of the Keyes hee had caused here.
Oh surely the Church so far is a good Mother, as it allowes a Magistrate to be a Father. And great comfort have those that live within the pale of the Church, to know that they have the Magistrate a Father to flye unto in their pressures and discomforts.
I must ingenuously confesse that one maine point that brought me from the Church of Rome, was the too too great power of the Keyes in the Popes, Bishops, and Preists hands, who studying more selfe Policy, then common Policy, looke upon the people, and with their power deale with them more as their subjects, then as politicall Members in a Common-wealth, rending and tearing them daily by their censures from that common and Politicall body to which they belong, without any hopes of care to bee had of them by their Magistrate and Politicall head and Governour. And I hope I shall not have fled from Antichrist who exalteth himself as head of the Church, and from that power hath his influence over all State and Politicall Heads and Rulers; to find in a Protestant Church any of his spirit, making a distinction of a spirituall and temporall head, forgetting the onely head Christ Jesus; which were it once granted, as the spirit is more noble then the body, so would the inference soon bee made, that they that are over the spirit, are higher in power then they that are over the body; which conclusion would soon bring Mexicoes troubles among Protestants. Experience in all my travails by sea and land, in most parts of Europe and of America, hath ever taught mee, that where the Clergy hath been too much exalted and enjoyed power over the people, there the Common-wealth hath soon fallen into heavy pressures and troubles. And let not this my observation seem strange as coming from a Minister, for I have learned from Christ, Matth. 20. 25, 26, 27. That the Princes of the Gentiles exercise Dominion, and they that are great exercise authority. But it shall not bee so among you, but whosoever will bee great among you, let him bee your Minister; and whosoever will bee chiefe among you, let him be your Servant.
I hope the High Court of Parliament will so settle the Church and State here that this shall not feare any further troubles from that; and that wee who have our portion from the one, may bee Ministers and Servants under the Commissioners of the other. And thus largely I have described the State and condition of Mexico in the time of Montezuma, and since his death the manner and proportion of it, with the troubled condition I found it in when I went thither, by reason of a mutiny and rebellion caused by an Arch-Bishop the yeer before. I shall now come out of Mexico, and present unto you the places most remarkable about it; and from thence the severall parts and Countries of America, before I betake my self to the journey which I made from Mexico to Guatemala, lying nine hundred English miles Southward, and from thence yet to Costarica, and Nicoya, being nine hundred miles further towards the South.
Although my travailes by Sea and Land in America were not above three or foure thousand miles (which is not the fift part of it, if exactly compassed) yet for the better compleating of this my worke I thought fit to inlarge my self to a full division of the many and sundry parts thereof, here first in generall; and hereafter more in particular of those parts wherein I lived twelve yeeres, and of those which I more exactly noted and observed as I travailed and passed through them. The chief division therefore of this greatest part of the World, is twofold onely, to wit, the Mexicans, and the Peruan parts, which containe many great and sundry Provinces and Countries, some as big as our whole Kingdom of England. But Mexico giving name to halfe America, is now called Nova Hispania, new Spain, from whence the Kings of Spain doe stile themselves, Hispaniarum Reges. The Mexican part containeth chiefly the Northern Tract, and comprehendeth these Provinces hitherto knowne and discovered, to wit, Mexico, Quivira, Nicaragua, Jucatan, Florida, Virginia, Norumbega, Nova Francia, Corterialis, and Estotilandia. The compasse of this part of America is thirteen thousand miles. The Peruan part containeth all the Southern Tract, and is tyed to the Mexican by the Isthmus or strait of Darien, being no more then 17 or as others say, in the narrowest place but 12 miles broad from the North to the South Sea. And many have mentioned to the Councell of Spain, the cutting of a Navigable Channell through this small Isthmus, so to shorten the Voiage to China, and the Moluccoes. But the Kings of Spain have not as yet attempted to doe it, some say lest in the worke hee should lose those few Indians that are left (would to God it were so that they were and had been so carefull and tender of the poore Indians lives, more populous would that vast and spatious Countrey bee at this day:) but others say he hath not attempted that great worke, lest the passage by the Cape Bona Esperanza good hope, being left off, those Seas might become a receptacle of Pirates. However this hath not been attempted by the Spaniards, they give not for reason any extraordinary great charge, for that would soone bee recompensed with the speedy and easie conveying that way the Commodities from South to North Seas. This Peruan part of America containeth these Countries, or Kingdomes, to wit, Castella aurea, Guiana, Peru, Brasil, Chille; and the compasse of it is seventeen thousand miles. I shall not speake distinctly of all these parts, which better writers, and of more knowledge have before mee discovered; and because some of them being out of the Spaniards reach and dominion, from whom I have received my best intelligence, I have from them had little notice of them, nor experience, which indeed I intend to make my best guide in this my worke. Therefore to returne again to the Mexican part, and the Northern Tract, I shall fall again upon the first and chiefe member of that division, which I said was Mexico. This aboundeth with golden sanded rivers, in which are many Crocodiles (though not so big as those of Egypt), which the Indian people eat. It glorieth in the mountaines Popochampeche, and Popocatepec, which are of the same nature with Ætna and Vesuvius. Nay all the way South-ward as farre as Leon in Nicaragua, there are many of these fiery mountaines. But Popocatepec is one of the chiefe of them, which signifieth a hill of smoake, for many times it casteth out smoake and fire; it standeth eight leagues from Chololla; the ascending up unto it is very troublesome, and full of craggie rocks. When Cortez passed that way to Mexico, he sent ten Spaniards to view it, with many Indians to carry their victuals, and to guide them in the way. They approached so nigh the top, that they heard such a terrible noyse which proceeded from thence, that they durst not goe unto it, for the ground did tremble and shake, and great quantity of ashes did much disturb their way. But yet two of them who seemed to be most hardie, and desirous to see strange things, went up to the top, because they would not return with a sleevelesse answer, and that they might not be accounted cowards, leaving their fellowes behind them, proceeded forwards, and passed through that desart of ashes, and at length came under a great smoake very thick, and standing there a while, the darknesse vanished partly away, and then appeared the Vulcan and concavity, which is about halfe a league in compasse, out of the which the aire came rebounding with a very great noise, very shrill and whistling, so that the whole hill did tremble; it was like unto an oven where glasse is made. The smoake and heat was so great that they could not abide it, and of force were constrained to return by the way that they had ascended. But they were not gone farre, when the Vulcan began to flash out flames of fire, ashes and embers, yea and at the last stones of burning fire, and if they had not chanced to find a rocke, under which they shadowed themselves, undoubtedly they had there been burned. It is like unto the Vulcan of Sicilia, it is high and round, and never wanteth snow about some part of it. Before the coming of Cortez for ten yeers space it had left off expelling vapour or smoake; but in the yeer 1540. it began again to burn, and with the horrible noyse thereof, the people that dwelt four leagues from it were terrified; the ashes that proceeded then from it reached to Tlaxcallan, which standeth ten leagues distant from it; yea some affirme that it extended fifteen leagues distant, and burned the herbs in the gardens, the corne in the fields, and clothes that lay a drying. And many such hils and mountaines doth this Mexican part of America, or new Spaine abound with. The limits of it are on the East, Jucatan, and the gulfe of Mexico, on the West Californio, on the South the Peruan part. The Northern bounds are unknowne, so that we cannot certainly avow this America to be continent, nor certainly affirme it to be an Island, distinguished from the old world. It was very populous before the arrivall of the Spaniards, who in seventeen yeers slew six millions of them, roasting some, plucking out the eyes, cutting off the arms of others, and casting them living to be devoured of wilde beasts. This chiefe Province of America named Mexico, is further subdivided into four parts, that is to say, Themistitan, Nova Galicia, Mechoacan, and Guastachan. Themistitan is the greatest and noblest of these foure; for that it containeth six Cities, and of them one is Mexico, which giveth name to the halfe part of America, and is the seat of an Arch-bishop, and of the Spanish Viceroy, whose greatnesse within I have before laid open; the second City is La Puebla de las Angeles, the City of Angels; the third Villaruca, the fourth Antiquera; the fifth Meccioca; the sixth Ottopan. But all these, excepting the two first, are but small places, named Citties formerly, for that the Spaniards thought to have made them Bishops seats, which they have not been able to performe, by reason that Mexico and the City of Angels hath drawne to them the chiefe trading, and most of the inhabitants of the other foure. Especially the resort to Mexico is so great, that all the Townes about (which formerly were of Indians) are now inhabited by Spaniards and Mestizoes. I may not omit about Mexico that famous place of Chapultepec, which in the Heathens times was the burying place of the Emperours; and now by the Spaniards is the Escuriall of America, where the Viceroyes that die are also interred. There is a sumptuous palace built with many fair gardens, and devises of waters, and ponds of fish, whither the Viceroyes and the gentry of Mexico do resort for their recreation. The riches here belonging to the Viceroyes Chappell are thought to be worth above a million of crownes.
Tacuba is also a pleasant Towne full of orchards and gardens, in the very way to Chapultepec. South-ward is Toluco, rich also for trading, but above all much mentioned for the Bacon, which is the best of all those parts, and is transported far and neer. West-ward is the Towne called, La Piedad at the end of a Cawsey, whither the people much resort from Mexico, being drawn to the superstitious worship of a picture of Mary, which hath been enriched by the chiefe of Mexico with many thousand pounds worth of gifts of chaines, and crownes of gold.
But more Northwest-ward three leagues from Mexico is the pleasantest place of all that are about Mexico, called La Soledad, and by others el desierto, the solitary or desert place and wildernesse. Were all wildernesses like it, to live in a wildernesse would be better then to live in a City. This hath been a device of poor Fryers named discalced, or barefooted Carmelites, who to make shew of their hypocriticall and apparent godlinesse, and that whilst they would be thought to live like Eremites, retired from the world, they may draw the world unto them; they have built there a stately Cloister, which being upon a hill and among rocks makes it to be more admired. About the Cloister they have fashioned out many holes and Caves in, under, and among the rocks, like Eremites lodgings, with a room to lie in, and an Oratory to pray in, with pictures, and Images, and rare devices for mortification, as disciplines of wyar, rods of iron, haire-cloths, girdles with sharp wyar pointes to girdle about their bare flesh, and many such like toyes which hang about their Oratories, to make people admire their mortified and holy lives. All these Eremeticall holes and caves (which are some ten in all) are within the bounds and compasse of the Cloister, and among orchards and gardens full of fruits and flowers, which may take up two miles compasse; and here among the rockes are many springs of water, which with the shade of the plantins and other trees, are most coole and pleasant to the Eremites; they have also the sweet smell of the rose and jazmin, which is a little flower, but the sweetest of all others; there is not any other flower to be found that is rare and exquisite in that countrey, which is not in that wildernesse to delight the senses of those mortified Eremites. They are weekly changed from the Cloister, and when their weeke is ended, others are sent, and they return unto their Cloister; they carry with them their bottles of wine, sweet-meats, and other provision; as for fruits the trees about do drop them into their mouthes. It is wonderfull to see the strange devises of fountains of water which are about the gardens; but much more strange and wonderfull to see the resort of Coaches, and gallants, and Ladies, and Citizens from Mexico thither, to walke and make merry in those desart pleasures, and to see those hypocrites, whom they looke upon as living Saints, and so think nothing too good for them, to cherish them in their desart conflicts with Satan. None goes to them but carries some sweet-meats, or some other dainty dish to nourish and feed them withall; whose prayers they likewise earnestly solicite, leaving them great almes of mony for their masses; and above all, offering to a picture in their Church, called our Lady of Carmel, treasures of diamonds, pearles, golden chaines and crownes, and gownes of cloth of gold and silver. Before this picture did hang in my time twenty lampes of silver; the worst of them being worth a hundred pound; truely Satan hath given unto them what he offered Christ in the desart, All these things wil I give thee if thou wilt fall down and worship me; all the dainties and of all the riches of America hath he given unto them in that their desart, for that they daily fall downe and worship him. In the way to this place there is another Towne yet called Tacubaya, where is a rich Cloister of Franciscans, and also many gardens and orchards, but above all much resorted to for the musicke in that Church, wherein the Friers have made the Indians so dexterous and skilfull, that they dare compare with the Cathedrall Church of Mexico. These were the chiefe places of mine and my friends resort, whilst I abode about Mexico, which I found to be most worth a History, and so thought fit here to insert them, and so passe on to the other parts or Provinces of Mexico.
Next to this is the Province of Guastachan, which lieth in the rode from St. John de Ulhua to Mexico, which is not so poore as Heylin maketh it, for that now it doth abound with many rich farmes of Sugar, and of Cochinil, and reacheth as farre as the Valley of Guaxaca which is a most rich place. The chiefe City of this Province was wont to be Tlaxcallan, whereof I have formerly spoken; but now the City of Guaxaca which is a Bishops seat, and Xalappa which is also of late made a Bishops seat, makes it more famous. It glorieth also in Villa Rica a Port Towne very wealthy, because all the traffique betwixt the Old and New Spains do passe through it. The Spaniards have in it two rich Colonies, called Pamico, and St. James in the valleys. The third Province of Mexico is called Mechoacan, which containeth in circuit fourscore leagues. It is also an exceeding rich countrey, abounding in Mulberry trees, silk, hony, wax, black-amber, works of divers coloured feathers, most rich, rare, and exquisite, and such store of fish, that from thence it tooke its name, Mechuoucan, which signifieth a place of fishing.
The language of the Indians is most elegant and copious, and they tall, strong, active, and of very good wits, as may be seen in all their workes, but especially in those of feathers, which are so curious, that they are presented for rich presents to the King and Nobles of Spaine. The chiefe City of this Province is Valladolid a Bishops-seat; and the best Townes are Sinfonte, which was the residence of the Kings of this countrey. There is also Pascuar and Colima very great Townes inhabited by Indians and Spaniards. There are also two good havens, called St. Anthony, and St. James, or Santiago. This country of Mechoacan was almost as great as the Empire of Mexico, when Cortez conquered those parts. The King that was then of Mechoacan was called Caconzin, who was a great friend unto Cortez, and a servitor to the Spaniards, and willingly yeelded himselfe as vassall to the King of Spaine; yet such was the cruelty of Don Nunio de Guzman, the first Ruler and President of the Chancery of Mexico after the conquest, that understanding he was put out of his office, he tooke his journey against the Teuchichimecas, and carried in his company five hundred Spaniards, with whom and six thousand Indians which by force he tooke out of Mechoacan, he conquered Xalixco which is now called the new Galicia. And as for this purpose hee passed through Mechoacan, he tooke Prisoner the King Caconzin, (who was quiet and peaceable and stirred not against him) and tooke from him ten thousand markes of plate, and much gold and other treasure, and afterwards burned him, and many other Indian Gentlemen and principall persons of that Kingdome, because they should not complaine, saying that a dead dog biteth not. They were in this Kingdome as superstitious and idolatrous as in the rest of America. No divorcement was permitted amongst them, except the party made a solemn oath, that they looked not the one on the other stedfastly and directly at the time of their marriage. In the burying likewise of their Kings they were superstitious, cruell, and Idolatrous. When any King of Mechoacan happened to be brought to such extremity of sicknesse that hope of life was past; then did he name and appoint which of his sons should inherit the state and Crown, and being known the new King or heir presently sent for all the Governours, Captains, and valiant souldiers, who had any office or charge, to come unto the buriall of his father, and he that came not, from thenceforth was held for a Traitour, and so punished. When the death of the old King was certaine, then came all degrees of estates, and did bring their presents to the new King for the approbation of his Kingdome: But if the King were not throughly dead, but at the point of death, then the gates were shut in, and none permitted to enter; and if he were throughly dead, then began a generall cry and mourning, and they were permitted to come where their dead King lay, and to touch him with their hands. This being done the carkasse was washed with sweet waters, and then a fine shirt put upon him, and a payre of shooes made of Dear skinne put on his feet, and about his ankles were tied bells of gold, about the wrists of his hands were put bracelets of Turkises and of gold likewise; about his neck they did hang collars of pretious stones and also of gold, and rings in his eares, with a great Turkise in his neither lip. Then his body was laid upon a large Beere whereon was placed a good bed under him; on his one side lay a bow with a quiver of arrowes, and on his other side lay an Image made of fine mantles of his own stature or bignesse, with a great tuffe of fine feathers, shooes upon his feet, with bracelets and a collar of gold. While this was a doing, others were busied in washing the men and women, which should be slain for to accompany him into hell. These wretches that were to be slain, were first banqueted and filled with drinke, because they should receive their death with lesse paine. The new King did appoint those who should die for to serve the King his father; and many of those simple soules esteemed that death so odious for a thing of immortall glorious. First six Gentlewomen of noble birth were appointed to die; the one to have the office of keeper of his jewels, which he was wont to weare; another for the office of cup-bearer; another to give him water with a bason and Ewer; another to give him alwaies the Urinall; another to be his Cooke; and another to serve for Landress. They slew also many women, slaves, and free-maidens for to attend upon the Gentlewomen, and moreover one of every occupation within the City. When all these that were appointed to die were washed, and their bellies full with meat and drinke, then they painted their faces yellow, and put garlands of sweet flowers upon each of their heads. Then they went in order of procession before the Beere, whereon the dead King was carried; some went playing on instruments made of Snail shells, and others played upon bones and shells of Sea Tortois, others went whistling, and the most part weeping. The sons of the dead King and other Noble men carried upon their shoulders the Beere where the Corps lay, and proceeded with an easie pace towards the Temple of the God called Curicaveri; his kinsmen went round about the Beer singing a sorrowfull song. The officers and houshold-servants of the Court, with other Magistrates and Rulers of justice bare the Standards and divers other Arms. And about midnight they departed in the order aforesaid out of the Kings Palace with great light of fire-brands, and with a heavy noyse of their trumpets and drummes. The Citizens which dwelt where the Corse passed, attended to make clean the street. And when they were come to the Temple, they went four times round about a great fire which was prepared of Pine tree to burn the dead body. Then the Beer was laid upon the fire, and in the meane while that the body was burning, they mawled with a club those which had the garlands, and afterward buried them four and four as they were apparelled behind the Temple. The next day in the morning the ashes, bones and jewels were gathered and laid upon a rich mantle, the which was carried to the Temple gate, where the Preists attended to blesse those divellish reliques, whereof they made a dow or paste, and thereof an Image, which was apparelled like a man, with a visor on his face, and all other sorts of jewels that the dead King was wont to weare, so that it seemed a gallant Idoll. At the foot of the Temple staires they opened a grave ready made, which was square, large, two fadome deepe, it was also hanged with new mats roundabout, and a faire bed therein, in the which one of the Preists placed the Idoll made of ashes with his eyes towards the East part, and did hang round about the walls Targets of gold and silver, with bowes and arrows, and many gallant tuffes of feathers with earthen vessels, as pots, dishes, and platters, so that the grave was filled up with houshold-stuffe, chests covered with leather, apparel, Jewels, meate drinke and armour. This done, the grave was shut up and made sure with beames, boardes, and floored with earth on the top. All those Gentlemen who had served or touched any thing in the buriall, washed themselves and went to dinner in the Court or yard of the Kings house without any table, and having dined they wiped their hands upon certain lockes of Cotton-wooll, hanging downe their heads, and not speaking any word, except it were to aske for drinke. This ceremonie endured five daies, and in all that time no fire was permitted to be kindled in the City, except in the Kings house and Temples, nor yet any corne was ground, or market kept, nor any durst goe out of their houses, shewing all the sorrow that might be possible for the death of their King. And this was the superstitious manner of burying the Kings of Mechoacan. This people did punish adultery most rigorously; for to commit it was death as well for the man as the woman. But if the adulterer were a Gentleman, his head was decked with feathers, and after that he was hanged, and his body burned; and for this offence was no pardon, either for man or woman. But for avoiding of adultery they did permit other common women, but no publike and ordinary stewes. Now the Indians of Mechoacan are greatly taken with the popish devices, and are strong in that religion, as any part of America.
The fourth and last Province of the Countrey or Empire of Mexico, is called Galicia nova, and is watered with two very great rivers, the one named Piastle, and the other San Sebastian. This Province glorieth in many great Townes of Indians; but especially in six, inhabited both by Indians and Spaniards; the first and chiefest is Xalisco, taken by Nunio de Guzman 1530. when he fled from Mexico in a rage, and tooke prisoner and burned the King of Mechoacan. The second is Guadalaiara. The third Coanum. The fourth Compostella. The fifth, St. Espirit. The sixth, Capola, which now is called Nova Mexico, new Mexico. And here it is that the Spaniards are daily warring against the Indians which live Northward, and are not as yet reduced nor brought under the Spanish yoake and government. They are valiant Indians, and hold the Spaniards hard to it; and have great advantage against them in the rocks and mountaines, where they abide and cut off many Spaniards. Their chief weapons are but bowes and arrowes, and yet with them from the thick Woods, hils and rockes they annoy and offend the Spaniards exceedingly. I have heard some Spaniards say that they flie and climbe up the rocks like Goates; and when they draw nigh unto them, then they cry out with a hideous noise shooting their arrowes at them, and in an instant are departed and fled unto another rock. The reason why the Spaniards are so earnest to pursue and conquer these Indians, more then many others of America, which as yet are not brought in subjection to the Spaniards, is for the many Mines of silver and treasure of gold which they know to bee there. They have got already sure possession of part of those riches in the Mines, called St. Lewis Sacatecas, from whence they send all the silver that is coyned in the Mint houses of Mexico and the City of Angels, and every yeere besides to Spain in silver wedges at least six Millions. But the further the Spaniards goe to the North, still more riches they discover; and faine would they subdue all those Northern parts (as I have heard them say) lest our English from Virginia, and their other plantations, get in before them. I have heard them wonder that our English enter no further into the maine land; surely say they, either they feare the Indians, or else with a little paultry Tobacco they have as much as will maintaine them in lazinesse. Certainly they intend to conquer through those heathenish Indians, untill by land they come to Florida and Virginia, (for so they boast) if they bee not met with by some of our Northern Nations of Europe, who may better keep them off then those poor Indians, and may doe God greater and better service with those rich Mines, then the Spaniards hitherto have done.
Thus having spoken somewhat of the foure Provinces of Mexico, which was the first member of the division Mexican and Peruan; Now I shall briefly say somewhat further of three more Countries belonging to the Mexican or Northern Tract as opposite to the Peruan, omiting Florida, Virginia, Norumbega, Nova Francia Corterialis, and Estotilandia, because I will not write as many doe by relation and hearsay, but by more sure intelligence, insight and experience. In my first division next to Mexico, I placed Quivira, Jucatan, and Nicaragua; of these three therefore I shall say a little, and then some what of the Peruan part. Quivira is seated on the most Western part of America, just over against Tartary, from whence being not much distant some suppose that the Inhabitants first came into this new World. And indeed the Indians of America in many things seeme to bee of the race and progenie of the Tartars, in that Quivira and all the West side of the Country towards Asia is farre more populous then the East towards Europe, which sheweth these parts to have been first inhabited. Secondly, their uncivility, and barbarous properties tell us that they are most like the Tartars of any. Thirdly, the West side of America if it bee not continent with Tartary, is yet disjoyned by a small straight. Fourthly, the people of Quivira neerest to Tartary, are said to follow the seasons and pasturing of their cattell like the Tartarians. All this side of America is full of herbage, and injoyeth a temperate aire. The people are desirous of glasse more then of gold; and in some places to this day are Cannibals. The chief riches of this Country are their Kine, which are to them as we say of our Ale to drunkards, meat, drink and cloth, and more too. For the Hides yeeld them houses, or at least the coverings of them; their bones bodkins, their hair thred, their sinews ropes; their horns, mawes and bladders, vessels; their dung, fire; their Calve skinnes, budgets to draw and keepe water; their blood, drink; their flesh, meat.
There is thought to bee some traffique from China, or Cathaya, hither to those parts, where as yet the Spaniards have not entred. For when Vazquez de Coronado conquered some part of it, hee saw in the further Sea certaine ships, not of common making; which seemed to bee well laden, and bare in their prowes, Pelicans, which could not bee conjectured to come from any Country, but one of these two. In Quivira there are but two Provinces knowne unto us, which are Cibola, and Nova Albion. Cibola lyeth on the Eastside, whose chief City is of the same name, and denominates the whole Province. The chief Town next to Cibola is called Totontaa, which is temperate and pleasant, being situated upon a River so called. The third Town worth mentioning is called Tinguez, which was burnt by the Spaniards; who under the conduct of Francisco Vasquez de Coronado made this Province subject to the King of Spain, Anno Dom. 1540. And since this Town of Tinguez hath been rebuilt and inhabited by the Spaniards; There is a goodly Colledge of Jesuites, who only preach to the Indians of that country. Nova Albion lyeth on the West side towards Tartary, and is very little inhabited by the Spaniards, who have found no wealth or riches there. Our ever Renowned and Noble Captain Sir Francis Drake discovered it, entred upon it, and hee named it Nova Albion, because the King that then was, did willingly submit himself unto our Queen Elizabeth.
The Country abounds with fruits pleasing both the eye and the Palate. The people are given to hospitality, but withall to witchcraft and adoration of devils. The bounds between this Quivira and Mexico Empire is Mar Virmiglio, or Californio. The third Kingdome belonging to the Mexican part and Northern Tract is Jucatan; which was first discovered by Francisco Hernandez de Cordova, in the year 1517. It is called Jucatan, not as some have conceited from Joctan the son of Heber, who they thinke came out of the East, where the Scripture placeth him, Gen. 12. 23. to inhabite here, but from Jucatan which in the Indian tongue, signifieth, what say you? for when the Spaniards at their first arriving in that Country did aske of the Indians the name of the place, the Savages not understanding what they meaned, replyed unto them Jucatan, which is, what say you? whereupon the Spaniards named it, and ever since have called it Jucatan. The whole Country is at least 900 miles in circuit, and is a Peninsula. It is situated over against the Isle of Cuba; and is divided into three parts, first Jucatan it selfe, whose Cities of greatest worth, are Campeche, Valladolid, Merida, Simaricas, and one which for his greatnesse and beauty, they call Caire. This Country among the Spaniards is held to bee poor; the chief Commodities in it are hony, wax, Hides, and some Sugar, but no Indigo, Cochinil, nor Mines of silver; There are yet some drugs much esteemed of by the Apothecaries, Cana fistula, Zarzaparilla especially; and great store of Indian Maiz. There is also abundance of good Wood and Timber fit for shipping, whereof the Spaniards doe make very strong ships, which they use in their voiages to Spain and back again. In the yeer 1632. the Indians of this Country in many places of it were like to rebell against their Spanish Governour, who vexed them sorely, making them bring in to him their Fowles and Turkies (whereof there is also great abundance) and their hony and wax, (wherein hee traded) at the rate and price which hee pleased to set them for his better advantage; which was such a disadvantage to them, that to enrich him they impoverished themselves; and so resolved to betake themselves to the Woods and Mountaines; where in a rebellious way they continued some Months, untill the Franciscan Fryers, who have there great power over them, reduced them back, and the Governour (lest hee should quite lose that Country by a further rebellion) granted to them not onely a generall pardon in the Kings name, but for the future promised to use them more mildly and gently.
The second part of it is called Guatemala, (wherein I lived for the space of almost twelve yeers) whose Inhabitants have lost formerly halfe a million of their kinsmen and friends by the unmercifull dealing of the Spaniards; and yet for all the losse of so many thousands, there is no part of America more flourishing then this with great and populous Indians Townes. They may thank the Fryers who defend them daily against the Spaniards cruelty, and this yet for their owne ends; for while the Indians flourish and increase, the Fryers purses flourish also and are filled. This Country is very fresh and plentifull. The chief Cities are Guatemala, Cassuca, and Chiapa; whereof I shall speak more largely hereafter. The third part of Jucatan is Acasamil, which is an Island over against Guatemala which is now commonly called by the Spaniards Sta Cruz, whose chief Towne is Sta. Cruz.
The fourth and last Country of the division of the Mexican part and Northern Tract of America (which is under the Spanish Government, and my best knowledge and experience) is Nicaragua, which standeth South East from Mexico, and above foure hundred and fifty leagues from it. Yet it agreeth somewhat with Mexico in nature both of soile and Inhabitants. The people are of good stature, and of colour indifferent white. They had, before they received Christianity, a setled and politick forme of Government; Onely, as Solon appointed no Law for a mans killing of his father, so had this people none for the murtherer of a King, both of them conceiting, that men were not so unnaturall, as to commit such crimes. A theef they judged not to death, but adjudged him to be slave to that man whom hee had robbed; till by his service hee had made satisfaction: a course truely more mercifull and not lesse just, then the losse of life.
This Countrey is so pleasing to the eye, and abounding in all things necessary, that the Spaniards call it Mahomets Paradise. Among other flourishing trees, here groweth one of that nature, that a man cannot touch any of its branches, but it withereth presently. It is as plentifull of Parrets, as our Countrey of England is of Crowes; Turkies, Fowles, Quailes and Rabbets are ordinary meat there. There are many populous Indian Townes (though not so many as about Guatemala) in this Countrey; and especially two Cities of Spaniards, the one Leon, a Bishops Seat, and the other Granada, which standeth upon a Lake of fresh water, which hath above three hundred miles in compasse, and having no intercourse with the Ocean, doth yet continually ebbe and flow. But of this Countrey, and of this City especially I shall say somewhat more, when I come to speake of my travailing through it.
Thus I have briefly touched upon the Mexican part, and so much of the Northern Tract as is under the King of Spain his Dominion, leaving more particulars, untill I come to shew the order of my being in and journeying through some of these Countries. I will now likewise give you a glimpse of the Southern Tract, and Peruan part of America. Which containeth chiefly five great Countries or Kingdomes, some in whole, and others in part, subject to the Crown of Spain and Portugal, which are, first Castella aurea; secondly, Gujana; thirdly, Peru; fourthly, Brasile; fifthly, Chille. But I will not fill my History with what others have written of the foure last named Countries, wherein I was not much; but what I could learne of Peru, I will briefly speak, and so come to the first Castella aurea, through which I travailed. Peru is held to be yet more rich a Countrey then is Mexico; for although it hath not the conveniency of trafique by the North Sea, which Mexico hath; but doth send the Commodities in it to Panama, and from thence transports them either over the straight Isthmus, or by the River Chiagre to Portabel upon the North Sea; yet the Countrey is farre richer then Mexico, by reason of the more abundance of Mines of silver which are in it. The mountaines named Potosi are thought to be of no other metall, which the King of Spain will not have to be opened until they have exhausted those which are already discovered and digged, and have found the Spaniards worke enough, and yeelded them treasure enough ever since they first conquered those parts. The soile is very fruitfull of all such fruits as are found in Spain. The Olives are bigger then those of Spain, the oyle sweeter and cleerer. The Grapes yeeld also a wine farre stronger then any of Spain, and there is much made, by reason it cannot conveniently bee brought from Spain. There is likewise wheat in great store; and all this fruitfull soile lyeth low under high Mountaines which divide betwixt Indians not as yet conquered and Brasile. But those Mountaines are a great helpe unto those pleasant Valleys with the waters that fall from them; for in all those parts inhabited by Spaniards towards the South Sea, it is most certain and most observable that it never raineth, in so much that the houses are uncovered on the tops, and onely matts laid over them to keep off the dust, and yet is this Countrey what with the waters that fall from the Mountaines, what with the morning and evening dewes, as fruitfull and plentifull as any Countrey in the World. The chief City is called Lima, where there is a Viceroy and a Court of Chancery, and an Arch-Bishop. It hath a Port some two miles from it named Callau; where lie the ships that convey yearly the treasure of that Kingdome to Panama. There lie also other ships, which trafique to the East-India's, and to all the Coasts of Guatemala, and to Acapulco the Southern Haven of Mexico. This Port of Callau is not so strong as the great, nay inestimable wealth that is commonly in it and in the City of Lima should require, for I have heard many Spaniards say, that in the yeare 1620. a few ships of Hollanders (as some say) or of English (as others affirme) appeared before the Haven waiting for the ships that were to convey the Kings revenews to Panama, and hearing that they were departed (though by a false report) followed them, and so forsooke the attempting to take the Callau; which certainly had they manly attempted, they had taken it, and in it the greatest treasure that in any one part of the world could have beene found. But the Spaniards seldome see thereabout foraine ships, and so live more carelesly in securing or strengthning that Coast. Though Peru bee thus rich in fruits and Mines, yet Chille farre exceedeth it in gold; which edgeth the Spaniards to a constant and continuall Warre with the Inhabitants, which are a strong, warlike, and most valiant people. They are grown as skilfull in the use of weapons, swords, Pistols and Muskets as the Spaniards, and have taken many Spaniards, men and women prisoners; and or the Spanish women have had so many children, called Mestizoes, that by them (who have proved most valiant) they have much increased both their strength and skill. They hold the Spaniards hard to it, and the War is become the most dangerous of any the Spaniards have; in so much that the Counsell of Spain doth pick out from Flanders and Italy, the best souldiers to send them thither. And a Captaine that hath served long, well and faithfully in Flanders, by way of credit and promotion is sent to the Warres of Chille, to fight for that great treasure of gold, which certainly is there. The Spaniards have in it three faire Cities; the Conception (which is a Bishops Seat) and Santiago, and Valdivia. This last is so named from one Valdivia, who was Governour of it, and the first cause and author of those Wars.
This man was so extraordinarily covetous of the gold of that Countrey, that hee would not let the Indians possesse or injoy any of it themselves; but did vex them, whip, and beat, yea and kill some of them, because they brought him not enough, and imployed them daily in seeking it out for him, charging them with a tax and imposition of so much a day: which the Indians not being able to performe, nor to satisfie an unsatiable minde and greedy covetousnesse, resolved to rebell, but so that first they would fill and satiate his heart with gold so that hee should never more covet after that yellow and glittering metall. Wherefore they joyned and combined themselves together in a warlike posture, and tooke some quantity of gold and melted it, and with it resolutely came upon Valdivia the Governour, saying, O Valdivia we see thou hast a greedy and unsatiable minde and desire after our gold; wee have not been able to satisfie thee with it hitherto; but now wee have devised a way to satiate this thy greedy covetousnesse; here is now enough, drink thy full of it; and with these words they tooke him, and powred the melted gold downe his throat, wherewith he died, never more coveting after that bright and shining drosse, and naming with his name and death that City of Valdivia, and with his covetousnesse leaving a rebellion which hath continued to a cruell and bloody War unto this day.
Guiana and Brasile I shall omit to speak of, not having been in any part of them. Brasile is little talked of by the Spaniards, belonging to the Crowne of Portugall, and now part of it to the high and mighty States of the Netherlands, who will better satisfie by their Histories, and acquaint Europe with the riches that are in it.
I return unto the first part mentioned by me in the Southern and Peruan Tract, which was said to bee Castella aurea, golden Castile, so called for the abundance of gold that is found in it. This containeth the Northern part of Peruana, and part of the Isthmus, which runneth between the North and South Sea. Besides the gold in it, yet it is admirably stored with silver, Spices, Pearls, and medicinall Herbes. It is divided into foure Provinces. The first is called Castella del oro; the second, Nova Andaluzia; the third Nova Granada; the fourth, Carthagena. Castella del oro is situated in the very Isthmus, and is not very populous by reason of the unhealthfulnesse of the aire, and noisome savour of the standing pooles. The chief places belonging to the Spaniards, are first Theonimay, or Nombre de Dios on the East; the second, which is six leagues from Nombre de Dios is Portabel, now chiefly inhabited by the Spaniards and Mulattoes, and Blackmores, and Nombre de Dios almost utterly forsaken by reason of its unhealthfulnesse. The ships which were wont to anchor in Nombre de Dios, and there to take in the Kings treasure, which is yeerly brought from Peru to Panama, and from thence to the North Sea, now harbour themselves in Portabel; which signifyeth Porto bello, a faire and goodly Haven, for so indeed it is, and well fortified at the entrance with three Castles, which can reach and command one another. The third and chiefe place belonging to the Spaniards in Castella del oro is Panama, which is on the Westside and upon the South Sea. This City and Nombre de Dios were both built by Didacus de Niquesa. And Nombre de Dios was so called, because Niquesa having been crossed with many mischances and misadventures at Sea, when hee came to this place greatly rejoyced, and bad his men now goe on shore in Nombre de Dios, in the name of God. But as I have before observed, the aire being here very unhealthy, the King of Spain in the yeare 1584. commanded the houses of Nombre de Dios to be pulled downe, and to be rebuilt in a more healthy and convenient place: which was performed by Peter Arias in Portabel. But being now upon Nombre de Dios, I should wrong my Country if I should not set out to the publike view the worth of her people shewed upon this place, and to this day talked on and admired by the Spaniards, who doe not only remember Sir Francis Drake, & teach their children to dread and fear even his name for his attempts upon Carthagena and all the coast about, and especially upon Nombre de Dios, and from it marching as farre as the great mountaine called St. Pablo towards Panama: but furthermore keep alive amongst them (and in this my History it shall not die) the name of one of Sir Francis Drake his followers and Captains named John Oxenham, whose attempt on this coast was resolute and wonderfull.
This Noble and gallant Gentleman arriving with threescore and ten souldiers in his company as resolute as himselfe, a little above this Towne of Nombre de Dios drew a land his ship, and covering it with boughes, marched over the land with his Company guided by Black-mores, untill he came to a river. Where he cut downe wood, made him a Pinnace, entred the South-sea, went to the Island of Pearles, where hee lay ten daies waiting for a prize, which happily he got (though not so happily after kept it) for from that Island he set upon two Spanish ships, and finding them unable to fight, he speedily made them yeeld, and intercepted in them threescore thousand pound weight of gold, and two hundred thousand pound weight in barres or wedges of silver, and returned safely again to the maine land. And though by reason of a mutiny made by his owne Company he neither returned to his country nor to his hidden ship; yet was it such a strange adventure as is not to be forgotten, in that the like was never by any other attempted, and by the Spaniards is to this day with much admiration recorded.
Much part of this Castella aurea as yet is not subdued by the Spaniards, and so doubtlesse a great treasure lieth hid in it for that people and nation whose thoughts shall aspire to find it out. In the year 1637. when I chanced to be in Panama returning homewards to my Country, there came thither some twenty Indians Barbarians by way of peace to treate with the President of the Chancery concerning their yeelding up themselves to the government of the King of Spaine. But as I was informed afterwards at Carthagena, nothing was concluded upon, for that the Spaniards dare not trust those Indians, whom they have found to have rebelled often against them for their hard usage and carriage towards them. These Indians which then I saw were very proper, tall and lusty men, and well complexioned; and among them one of as red a haire as any our nation can shew; they had bobs of gold in their eares, and some of them little pieces of gold made like a halfe moone hanging upon their neither lips, which argues store of that treasure to be amongst them. Unto this country is joyning Nova Andaluzia, which hath on the North side Castella del oro, and on the South Peru; The best Cities in it are Tocoio, now by the Spaniards called St. Margarets, and another called S. Espiritu. Nova Granada is situated on the South side of Carthagena, and from the abundance and fertility of Granada in Spaine it hath taken its name. The chiefe Townes and Cities in it are six. First Tungia, which is supposed to be directly under the Æquator. The second is Tochaimum. The third, Popaian, the richest of them all. The fourth, Sta. Fee, or St. Faith, an Archbishops seat, and a Court of Justice and Chancery, governed like Panama and Guatemala, by a President and six Judges, and a Kings Attorney and two high Justices of Court, who have six thousand duckats a yeer allowed them out of the Kings treasure. The fifth City is Palma; and the sixth Merida. From Carthagena through this countrey of Granada lieth the rode way to Lima in Peru, all by land. This Country is very strong by reason of the situation of it much amongst stony rockes, which compasse and environ it, and through which there are very narrow passages. Yet it is full of pleasant valleys which do yeeld much fruit, Corne and Indian Maiz. There are also in it some Mines of silver, and many golden sanded rivers. Carthagena, which is the last Province of Castella aurea, hath also a very fruitfull soil, in the which groweth a tree, which if any one do touch, he will hardly escape a poysoning.
The chiefe Cities in it are, first Carthagena, which Sir Francis Drake in the yeer 1585. surprised, and (as the Spaniards affirme) burned most part of it, and besides inestimable sums of money, took with him from thence 230 peeces of Ordnance. I dare say now it hath not so many; yet it is reasonable well fortified; though not so strong as Portabel. It is a faire and gallant City and very rich, by reason of the pearles which are brought to it from Margarita, and the Kings revenues, which from all Nova Granada are sent thither. It is a Bishops seat, and hath many rich Churches and Cloisters. It is not governed by a Court of Justice and Chancery as Sta. Fee is, but onely by one Governour. It hath been often moved to the Councell of Spaine to have some Galleys made to runne about those Seas, and that Carthagena bee the chiefe harbour of them. From this City received England the losse of that little Island named Providence by us, and by the Spaniards Sta. Catalina, which though but little, might have been of a great, nay greater advantage to our Kingdom, than any other of our plantations in America; which the Spaniards wel understood when they set al their strength of Carthagena against it; but I hope the Lord hath his time appointed when we shall advantage our selves by it again. To this City of Carthagena cometh every yeer also in small Frigots most of the Indigo, Cochinil & Sugar, which is made in the country of Guatemala, the Spaniards thinking it safer to ship these their goods in little Frigots upon the lake of Granada in Nicaragua, & from thence to send them to Carthagena to be shipped with the Galeons that come from Portabel with the treasure of Peru, than to send them by the ships of Honduras, which have often been a prey unto the Hollanders. These frigots were thought by the Spaniards to come too neer the reach of Providence, and therefore it hath been their care and providence to remove us from this reach of their Frigots. The second great Towne of this Countrey of Carthagena is Abuida. The third Sta. Martha, which is a rich government of Spaniards, and doth much fear our English and Holland ships; it is seated on the river de Abuida, otherwise called St. John and Rio di Grand. There is also Venezuela and New-Caliz, great, rich, and strong Townes. And these three last regions, Andaluzia Nova, Nova Granada, and Carthagena are by the Spaniards called Tierra firme, or firme land, for that they are the strength of Peru from the North, and the basis of this reversed Pyramis.
Thus have I brought thee, Gentle Reader, round about America, and shewed thee the Continent of that biggest part of the world; from the which thou mayst observe the power and greatnesse of the King of Spain, who hath got under his Scepter and Dominion so many thousand miles, which were they reckoned up, would be found to be more then are about all Europe. But not only is America great and spatious by land, but also by sea, glorying in more and some greater Islands, then any other part of the world. It would but cause tediousnesse, and seem prolixity to number them all up, which is a worke hard and difficult, for that many as yet are not knowne nor inhabited, and whose goodnesse and greatnesse is not discovered; for the Islands called Lucoidas are thought to be foure hundred at least. Therefore I will omit to be over tedious and prolixe, and will but briefly speake of the best and chiefe of them, taking them in order from that part of the Continent, Carthagena, where even now I left thee. But in the first place calls upon my pen the Jewel Island called Margarita, which is situated in the sea nigh unto Castella aurea, and not farre distant from two other Islands, named Cubagna and Trinidado. True it is this Island of Margarita is by some much slighted for want of corne, grasse, trees and water; in so much that it hath been knowne sometime that an inhabitant of that Island hath willingly changed for a Tun of water a Tunne of wine. But the great abundance of pretious stones in it maketh amends for the former wants and defects; for from them is the name of Margarita imposed on that Island. But especially it yeeldeth store of pearles, those gemmes which the Latine writers call Uniones, because nulli duo reperiuntur indiscreti, they alwaies are found to grow in couples. In this Island there are many rich Merchants, who have thirty, fourty, fifty Black-more slaves only to fish out of the sea about the rockes these pearles. These Black-mores are much made of by their Masters, who must needs trust them with a treasure hidden in the waters, and in whose will it is to passe by of those they find, none, few, or many. They are let downe in baskets into the Sea, and so long continue under the water, untill by pulling the rope by which they are let downe, they make their sign to taken up. I have heard some say that have thus dealt in pearles, that the chief meat they feed their Black-mores with, is roast-meat, which maketh them their wind & breath longer in the water. From Margarita are all the pearles sent to be refined and bored to Carthagena, where is a faire and goodly street of no other shops then of these Pearle-dressers. Commonly in the moneth of July there is a ship or two at most ready in that Island to carry the Kings revenue, and the Merchants pearles to Carthagena. One of these ships are valued commonly at threescore thousand, or fourscore thousand duckats, and sometimes more; and therefore are reasonable well manned; for that the Spaniards much feare our English and the Holland ships. The yeare that I was in Carthagena, which was 1637. a ship of these laden with pearles was chased by one of our ships from the Island of Providence (by some it was thought to be our ship called the Neptune) which after a little fighting had almost brought the poore Spaniard to yeeld his pearles, and had certainly carried away that great treasure (as I was informed in Carthagena foure daies after the fight by a Spaniard who was in the ship of Margarita) had not two other ships of Holland come between to challenge from our English man that prize, alleadging their priviledge from the mighty States united for all prizes upon those seas and coast. And whilst our English and Hollander did thus strive for the Pearles, the Spanish ship ran on shore upon a little Island, and speedily unladed and hid in the woods part of the treasures, and perceiving the Hollander coming eagerly in pursuit of it, the Spaniard set on fire the ship, and neither Spaniard, English, nor Hollander, enjoyed what might have been a great and rich prize to England. From Carthagena was sent presently a man of Warre to bring home the pearles hid in the wood, which were not the third part of what was in the ship.
Jamaica is another Island under the power of the Spaniards, which is in length 280. miles, and 70. in breadth, which though it exceed Margarita in sweet and pleasant streames and fountaines of water, yet is far inferiour to it in riches. Some Hides, some Sugar, and some Tobacco are the chiefe commodities from thence. There are only two Townes of note in it, Oristana and Sevilla; here are built ships which have proved as well at sea, as those that are made in Spaine. This Island was once very populous, but now is almost destitute of Indians; for the Spaniards have slain in it more then 60,000; in so much that women as well here as on the Continent did kill their children before they had given them life, that the issues of their bodies might not serve so cruell a nation. But farre beyond the two former is the Island of Cuba, which is three hundred miles long, and seventy broad, which was first made knowne to Europe by Columbus his second navigation. This Island is full of Forrests, Lakes, and mountaines. The aire is very temperate, the soile very fertill, producing brasse of exact perfection, and some gold though drossie hath formerly been found in it. It aboundeth also with Ginger, Cassia, Masticke, Aloes, some Cinnamon, Cana fistula, Zarzaparilla, and Sugar, and hath of flesh, fish, and fowles great plenty; but especially such store of sea Tortois, and Hogs, that the ships at their returne to Spaine make their chiefe provision of them. My selfe chanced to take physicke there, and whereas I thought that day I should have a fowle or rabbet after my physicks working, they brought me a boyled peece of fresh young Porke, which when I refused to eat, they assured me it was the best dish the Doctors did use to prescribe upon such daies.
The chiefe Cities of this Island are Santiago on the Northerne shore, built by James de Valasco, a Bishops seat, and secondly, Havana, which is also on the Northerne shore, and is a safe Rode for ships, and the staple of merchandize, and (as the Spaniards call it) the key of all the West-India's, to lock up or unlock the doore or entrance to all America. Here rideth the King of Spaines Navy, and here meet all the Merchant ships from severall ports and Havens of all those Countries afore-named, whether from the Islands or from the Continent: in a word here commonly in the month of September is joyned all the treasure as I may say of America, all the King of Spains revenews, with as much more of Merchant goods, which the yeer that I was there were thought to be in all the worth of thirty millions. And the ships which that yeer there did meet to strengthen one another were 53. saile, and set out sooner that yeer then any other upon the 16. of September, having that day a faire wind to wafte them homewards through the Gulf of Bahama. Havana therefore being the store-house of all Americaes treasure, it hath been the Spaniards chiefe care to fortifie that; and truely it is so strong, that the Spaniards hold it impossible to be taken, and doe boast of foure impregnable forts, to wit at Antwerp, Millan, Pamplona, and Havana. This hath two strong Castles, the one at the point or entrance of the Haven toward the Sea; the other more within, on the other side almost over against it; which two Castles (the passage in the mouth of the haven being so narrow, that one onely ship in breast may enter) will keep and defend the Port from many hundred saile. I was my selfe in the great and chiefe Castle, and truly found it very strong, though by land I judged it might be as easily taken, as other strong Castles here in Europe have been overpowerd by a great and powerfull army. It hath in it besides many others, twelve peeces of Ordnance of brasse exceeding great, which they call The twelve Apostles. But for all this strength of the Havana, it could not once defend six or seven millions (according to the Spaniards owne account) which the one part of the Kings Navy brought from St. John de Ulhua to the sight of this impregnable fort, and protected with such twelve Apostles. It was as I take it the yeer 1629. when that ever renowned Hollander (whom like unto our Drake the Spaniards to this day fear and tremble at, calling him Pie de Palo, that is, wooden leg) waited at the Cape of St. Anthony for the Spanish fleet of Nova Hispania; which according to his expectation coming, he manly set upon it, saluting and welcoming the great treasure in it with a full side of roaring Ordnance; the sound was more dolefull then joyfull and welcome to the Spaniards, who thought it safer sleeping in a whole skinne, then to be unquieted by fighting, and with the sight of torne and mangled bodies, by Mars his furious and fiery balls, and so called a Councell of warre to resolve what they should doe to save the Kings great treasure which was intrusted to them in those ships. The result of the Councell was to flie and with some discharging of their Ordinance to defend themselves, untill they could put into a river in the Island of Cuba, not far from Havana called Matanzos. There were in that fleet of Spaine many gallants and Gentlemen, and two Judges of the Chancery of Mexico, which were that yeer sent to Madrid as guilty in the mutiny before mentioned, there was in it of my acquaintance a Dominican Frier, named Frier Jacintho de Hozes, who had been sent to those parts to visit all the Dominican Cloisters of New-Spaine, and had got of bribes at least eight thousand duckats (as I was informed the yeer after by a Frier his companion, whom he sent from Havana to Guatemala to make knowne to his friends his losse of all that hee had got, and to beg a new contribution to helpe him home) there was also in that fleet Don Martin de Carillo; who was the Inquisitor and Commissioner to judge the Delinquents in the fore-mentioned mutiny of Mexico, who was thought to have got twenty thousand duckats cleer; besides these a Bishop, and many rich Merchants, all under the command of Don Juan de Guzman y Torres Admirall to all the fleet. They all fled for their lives and goods; but the gallant Hollanders chased them. The Spaniards thinking the Hollanders would not venture up the river after them, put into Matanzos; but soone after they had entred, they found the river too shallow for their heavy and great bellied Galeons, and so run them up on ground; which done, the better and richer sort escaped to land, endeavouring to escape with what wealth they could; some got out Cabinets, some bags; which the Hollanders perceiving came upon them with bullet messengers, which soone overtooke and stopt their flying treasures. Some few Cabinets were hid, all the rest became that day the gallant Pie de Palo or the wooden legd Captaines prize for the mighty States of Holland. The Frier Hozes was got into a boat with his Cabinet under his habit, which had in it nothing but chaines of gold, diamonds, Pearles and pretious stones; and halfe a dozen Hollanders leapt into the boat after him, and snatched it from him, as his owne friend and companion related after to us in Guatemala. Don Juan de Guzman y Torres the Admirall when he came to Spaine was imprisoned, lost his wits for a while, and after was beheaded. Thus in the sight of impregnable Havana and of those 12 brazen Apostles, was Holland glorious and made rich with a seven million prize.