Contents—​The Indians—​Their origin—​Pre-historic Canada—​Indian relics—​Original inhabitants—​Les Iroquois du nord—​Original names—​Peninsula of Upper Canada—​Champlain exploring—​Ascends the Ottawa—​His route to Lake Nippissing—​To Lake Huron—​French River—​The country—​Georgian Bay—​Lake Simcoe—​Down the Trent—​A grand trip—​Bay Quinté, and Lake Ontario discovered—​War demonstration—​Wintering at the Bay—​A contrast—​Roundabout way—​Erroneous impressions.

CHAMPLAIN’S DISCOVERY OF THE BAY QUINTÉ, AND LAKE ONTARIO.

In this work but brief reference can be made to the general history of the Indians. Perhaps it is hardly necessary to explain that the term Indian, applied to the aborigines of America, took its origin from the fact, that when the New World was discovered it was supposed to be a part of the Indias (East Indias), the riches of which had led the intrepid navigator to seek a more direct route thereto. And consequently the natives were called Indians.

It does not lie within the scope of this work to speak of the several theories which have been given with respect to the origin of the natives, nor to advance any particular view. It is sufficient to remark that the character of the various tribes, their features, their traditions, and customs, all indicate most unmistakably that Asia was the original birthplace of the aborigines of America. Of course, reference is made only to those Indians whose representatives occupied the continent when discovered by Columbus, and not to those who had in some long past day held possession, who have left here and there indications of their rude character, and primitive mode of life, and who were swept away by the more powerful and warlike invaders—​the predecessors of the aborigines of whom we now write.

In our researches we have collected a good many Indian relics, of the origin of which we have no record, and can only guess, while science strives to explain. We offer no views of our own, but give the following upon

All around the bay, as well as in other parts of Canada, may be found here and there indications of an extinct people whose sepulchral remains can be traced. Along the western portion particularly, are faint traces of mounds or tumuli which have been found to contain not only human remains; but objects of curiosity. For a more particular account of these the reader is referred to an interesting paper in the Canadian Journal for September 1860, by T. C. Wallbridge, Esq., of Belleville.

THE ABORIGINES OF UPPER CANADA.

For many long years, perhaps centuries, before the white man saw the pleasant shores of the Bay, the Indian war-whoop was often heard, and the war dance performed along its borders. We know but little of those primal days. We cannot estimate the cruelties of barbaric warfare, natural to the aborigines, which have been enacted. We cannot count up the number of Indian braves who have moved upon its wood-begirded waters, as conquerors, or as captives, nor the woman and children carried away from their kindred—​nor yet the total of the bleeding scalps which have hung at the girdle of the returning warriors, as they pursued the devious trail.

Early French travelers, generally Jesuits, have marked roughly the territory, which embraces in its area, the land extending from the Ottawa westward to Lake Huron, and from the St. Lawrence and Lake Ontario, northward to the French River, and Lake Nippissing. This was named the country of Les Iroquois du Nord, and, according to a map in the Imperial French Library, the land north of Bay Quinté, was called in 1656, Tout-hatar, and the land west to Lake Huron, was named Conchradum. There were, at the same time indicated at the eastern borders, the “antient Hurons” and the “Outtawas” at the west, occupying the peninsula of Upper Canada, the Neutre Nation de truite, and at the mouth of the French river, Mississagues. It would seem at first, that the inhabitants were a branch of the Iroquois, or Six Nation Indians. But it may be that they had given to them the name Iroquois from their peculiar mode of expression, like the Indian to the south of the lake;—​although not immediately connected. According to a map, examined by the writer, in the Imperial library at Paris, all the land between the Ottawa and Lake Huron was the Algonquins. A map by Champlain calls the land north of the Bay Quinté, Lien force cerfs. The northern Iroquois was divided into several tribes, each of which had a distinct name, and lived in considerable communities, here and there. The old maps are marked with sites of Indian villages, where, no doubt, they lived a greater portion of their time; probably the families remained most of the time, and also the males, except when away up the rivers to the north, upon hunting expeditions. Among these tribes and villages was the Kentes. Their village was situated at the east of Hay Bay, according to some maps; according to others, it was placed upon the south shore of Prince Edward, west of West Lake. Another tribe mentioned is Gaungouts. And along the north shore of the Mohawk Bay near Napanee, is marked an Indian village called Gaunaroute. Upon another map the village here is called Gameydocs. Just above the Carrying Place, near the harbour of Presqu Isle, is another village called Ganaroske, and a second one designated Gonetoust. Some of the maps here alluded to, bear date as late as 1703, while others are much earlier.

The waters of the bay and the lake adjacent, were looked upon as valuable for fishing, and the land as abundant in game. McMullen, in his History of Canada, speaks thus of the bay region. Referring to the year 1692, he states, “the Aborigines and French ravaged the frontiers of Massachusetts, and revenged upon its helpless borderers the injuries suffered by the Canadians; detachments of troops swept the favorite hunting grounds of the Iroquois along the beautiful Bay of Quinté; and an expedition from Montreal did considerable injury to the Mohawks in their own country.”

The peninsula of Upper Canada was called, in 1686, Saquinan—​(Paris documents). The “Neutre Nation” was exterminated by the Iroquois prior to 1650.

It is an interesting fact that Champlain arrived at Lake Ontario, or “fresh water sea,” as he called it, being the first European to gaze upon its broad blue waters, by the way of the Bay of Quintè. This was in 1615. Prior to that he had penetrated by way of Sorel river, and the lake which has been named after him, and explored some part of the territory to the south of Ontario lake; but probably was not north of the Mohigan mountains, at least he did not then discover Lake Ontario. His principal object at this time was to create terror of the French arms, on behalf of the Six Nation Indians.

It was after a return from France, with a commission granting him extensive powers in the peltry traffic, that Champlain, with the view of protecting that trade, erected a fort on the site of Montreal. This done he directed his attention to the country lying unexplored to the north. Aware of Hudson’s discovery in the north, of the bay now bearing his name, he was led to hope that by following the river Ottawa, of which the Hurons gave him some information, to its upper waters, he would be brought into close proximity if not actually to the bay, explored by Hudson. He accordingly set out accompanied by one or more of the four Recollet missionaries he had brought with him from France, and a considerable force of Hurons, with the view of ascending the Ottawa to its source. How far he penetrated into that rugged region, or how long a time he expended, does not appear. But it would seem that failing in his attempted discovery, he retraced his steps down the Upper Ottawa, until he reached the mouth of the Mattawan river, which empties into the Ottawa, and rises in the high lands to the west, approaching Lake Nippissing. As nearly as can be learned, Champlain was here joined by more warriors, who persuaded him to follow them and assist in a proposed attack upon the Iroquois nation to the south of Lake Ontario. His course was up the Mattawan river, through la petite rivière to lac du Toulon. Thence across to Trout Lake, Upper Trout Lake, and traversing the high lands, from which the waters flow in opposite directions; some into the valley of the Ottawa, and others towards the west, he descended the river La Vase into Lake Nippissing. Crossing this lake, he descended the French river into the Georgian Bay. In passing it may be observed that all the names, some of which are in French, and some in English, have a special meaning, and were applied, at least some of them, by the Indians. The Ottawa is so called not from the fact that the territory through which it runs was the home of the Ottawa tribe, but, because it was by its waters that they came to visit the French. The Ottawa river, that is, the river by which the Ottawas came. On the other hand the French river, which discharges into the Georgian Bay, was so called by the Indians, because it was the river by which the French came to their western domain. The length of French river is about 61 miles, and is a chain of lakes, connected by short rapids. Lake Nippissing is 69 feet above Lake Huron.

It is now 253 years since this voyage of discovery was made by Champlain, guided by the Indians. The appearance then presented to the intrepid navigator must have been exceedingly wild and beautiful, as he passed along the unknown way. Now swiftly gliding in the birch canoe upon the glassy waters of a lake, now dancing down the rapids, among rugged rocks, and green-clad islands; and anon, threading the devious path of a portage, beneath the lofty arches of the wilderness, making the first European footprints upon the virgin soil.

Deputy Surveyor-General Collins, writing to Lord Dorchester, by his command, in 1788, speaking of the French river says: “The entrance is composed of a considerable number of small islands and channels,” the westernmost is the best navigable—​about 250 feet wide, and has from two to three fathoms depth of water. It is narrower a little way up, and at about half a league from the entrance becomes exceedingly intricate, on account of the small islands and channels, which are here so numerous in every direction, and so much resembling each other in appearance, as to make it extremely difficult without a guide to find the true navigable channel, which, although deep in some places, is so narrow there is scarce room for two canoes to pass each other. The bank in these situations, is a steep rock, almost perpendicular, and there are very strong currents or rapids. The term Souters, sometimes given to the Missisauga Indians by the French, means to jump up and down, in reference to their living upon this river, and being expert in navigating its channels. “The country adjoining to, and near this, (river) is a rocky desert, nothing growing but small scrubby bushes and pine trees not thirty feet high—​the same dreary prospect continues, I am informed, all the way up to Lake Nippissing, which is recorded twenty-five leagues.” He states that the coast from the mouth of the river eastward is dangerous, for even canoes, although they may find shelter among the islands which lie along most of the coast. It is equally rocky and barren. Such was the nature of the way by which Champlain was led.

He now directed his course southward along the wild and irregular shore of the Georgian Bay, through the myriad islands that give beauty to that coast. Arrived at the mouth of the Severn river, he ascended that devious stream, and entered Sparrow Lake. Thence he crossed to Lake Couchiching, which, at its southern extremity approaches to Lake Simcoe. Crossing the portage to this Lake, he ascended the River Talbot, in a north-east direction, and by frequent portages reached Balsam Lake. Then, through Cameron Lake, past Fenelon Falls, and into Sturgeon Lake. So on, by Pigeon Lake, Buck Hare Lake, Deer Lake, into Salmon Trout Lake. Turning south, by Clear Lake, he descended the Otanabee, or Pamoduscoteong, past the present site of Peterborough, and entered Rice Lake. Again turning east, he entered the head waters of the River Trent. Around by Heely’s Falls, down by Campbellford, then, by Chisholm’s Rapids, he arrived at the head of the Bay of Quinté, sometime in July, 1615.

Champlain took this route from the Ottawa, which had long before been traveled by the Indians, at the request of the Indian warriors who accompanied him, to make an attack upon their bitter enemy the Iroquois.

At the present day it would be a grand trip to make, by the way pursued by Champlain, when he visited the Bay region. But how wonderfully magnificent must it all have been to the bold, but educated French explorer of the primeval forest.

Champlain crossed the Lake to a point not far from Oswego. Whether he passed through the upper, or lower gap to the opposite side of the Lake, and coasted the south shore; or whether he ascended Picton Bay and crossed the Indian Carrying-place to East Lake, and thence into Ontario, may be questioned. But in order to make an unexpected attack upon the enemy, he had need to conceal his advance; hence it is reasonable to suppose he would take the nearer route by Picton Bay, although it would involve the crossing of the portage. This could scarcely be regarded as a serious difficulty, as he had already passed many in the devious route by the Ottawa.

Strange enough, that a European should discover Lake Ontario by entering the head waters of the Trent River, and sailing through the Bay of Quinté. Strange enough that a warlike demonstration should be made by this route, against a foe living upon the south shore of the Lake.

Champlain, notwithstanding his caution, found his Indian foes prepared to receive him, having well entrenched themselves, and he suffered a serious defeat, being glad to secure a safe retreat in the Bay of Quinté region, probably Prince Edward, after having himself received two wounds.

Failing in his efforts to obtain a guide to conduct him down the St. Lawrence, to his fort at Montreal, Champlain was compelled to spend the winter months, which were by this time approaching, in the vicinity of the Bay of Quinté. Probably six or nine months were passed by him upon the northern shores. He did not remain all the time at the Bay, as it is stated he visited the neighbouring Indian nations, especially the neutral nation which occupied the peninsula between Lakes Erie and Huron, and the head of Ontario. We can readily imagine the wide difference between a long winter thus spent in 1615–16, mid the wild scenes of aboriginal life by the ice-locked waters, and one spent in this latter part of the 19th century, with the highly cultivated land, and advanced civilization. Then, the trees of the forest, in one unbroken denseness, was the sole home of the savage, and wild beast, and waved in solemn mournfulness over the wintry landscape; while few other than nature’s sounds disturbed the stillness of the wilderness. Now, the dark forest has disappeared and human habitations of comfort and luxury thickly stud the land. The wild beasts, as well as the original owners of the territory, have almost disappeared. The snow of the ice-covered bays and streams no longer remain unbroken by human foot. Sleigh roads thickly intersect the surface, and joyous shouts of the skater break upon the light pure air, while the gingle of sleigh bells indicate the overflowing stream of travelers. The strings of telegraphs sigh in the wind, instead of the tall trees’ bough. The iron horse snorts along through the snow hills, instead of the beast from his lair. Towns and cities rest in peaceful security, where there were thick jungles of cedar and furs.

It was by this roundabout way that the Bay of Quinté was discovered; and it was fifty years later when DeCourcelles, pursuing the Iroquois from the Lower St. Lawrence ascended for the first time the river, direct from Montreal to Lake Ontario. But during this time missionaries had been at work among the Indians, upon the northern shores of the Lake—​(See early Missionaries).

The impressions made upon the minds of these first explorers, respecting the Bay, seem to have been very erroneous; at least they have left maps not only rude, but incorrect. Thus, we find upon an old map intended to represent Lake Ontario and the Bay, with the country north of the Lake, the Bay is made to extend northward, at right angles with the Lake, for some distance, and then, turning westward somewhat, its extremity is brought very near to another bay, which empties into Georgian Bay.

Contents—​Name—​Letter, Daily News—​“Omega” Lines—​The writer—​Conjectures—​Five Bays—​Indian origin—​Kentes—​Villages—​Les Couis—​Modes of spelling—​Canty—​The occupants, 1783—​Mississaugas—​Origin—​With the Iroquois—​The Souter—​Mississaugas, dark—​At Kingston—​Bay Quinté—​Land bought—​Reserves—​Claim upon the islands—​Wappoose Island—​Indian agent—​Indians hunting—​Up the Sagonaska—​Making sugar—​Peaceable—​To Kingston for presents.

THE NAME OF BAY QUINTÉ—​THE ABORIGINAL INHABITANTS OF UPPER CANADA IN 1783.

There appeared in the “Daily News” of Kingston, October 20, 1856, the following letter and verses:

“Sir,—​I send you a few lines in connection with what I believe to be an historical fact, though not generally known, even in the vicinity of the bay. When the French first took possession of Canada, or shortly after, they established posts at Frontenac, Niagara and Detroit.

In the fall following their establishment, the men under Col. Quinté, who commanded at Niagara, were driven out by the Indians, and pursued and harassed several days, when following the lake shore to the west of the bay, they took the south shore of the bay and got to the reach. The snow was falling and ice making on the bay, without sufficient strength to carry them; when, nearly starved and exhausted, they started back two or three miles to what is known as Stickney’s Hill, where (an extremely cold night coming on) they nearly all perished, including Quinté himself. Only two of the party (the ice having become strong) reached Frontenac. Hence the name of the bay.”—​(Signed,)—​“Omega.”

This note was accompanied with the following lines:

Mr. T. C. Wallbridge, to whom we are indebted for the foregoing, informs us that upon the day this was written, a learned judge (Robinson) now dead, was a passenger from Belleville to Kingston, and the inference was that he penned the lines, which must have been based upon what he considered facts. The same tradition has been received also, from other sources, and many living upon the bay, regard it as true. But it becomes our duty to question the matter. In the first place unfortunately, for the plausibility of the statement, the name of no such French officer can be found.

The nearest approach to the name of Quinté, held by any Frenchman known, was that of Prince de Conti. This person was a particular friend of Cavalier de la Salle, to whom was ceded the Seignory of Cataraqui. “Chevalier de Tonti, went with him, proposing to share his fortunes,” in western explorations. Now La Salle, named one of the islands near Cataraqui, (Amherst,) after this officer, and even yet may be found living, persons who call that island, “Isle Tanta.” Well, it might reasonably be supposed that La Salle would wish to do honor to his friend the Prince de Conti, and therefore named the bay after him. From Conti, it might gradually change to Canta, or Quinté. Now, however probable this may seem, it cannot be regarded as the origin of the name.

Again, it has been supposed to be derived from the Latin Quintanus, or Quinta,—​the fifth place,—​having reference to five bays, namely, the Lower Bay, Picton Bay, Hay Bay, the Reach, and Upper Bay; or, as some aver, it refers to five Indian stations, formerly existing in the vicinity of the bay. But, however much may be advanced in support of the plausibility of these theories, we think a more certain origin is perfectly intelligible.

The word Quinté, as at present spelled and pronounced, when rightly done, is undoubtedly a French one, being one of the few remaining memorials of French possession; but its origin can be distinctly traced to an Indian source.

We have seen elsewhere that the country lying north of Lake Ontario was called the “Country of the Northern Iroquois.” To the south of the lake was the Iroquois country proper. Among the several nations which composed the Iroquois Confederation, was the Seneques, or commonly called Seneca. Wentworth Greenhalgh in the “London Documents,” writing of a journey in May, 1677, from Albany to the Indians, westward, says “the Seneques have four towns, viz: Canagora, Tiotohalton, Canoenada,” (how like Canada), “and Keint-he—​which contained about 24 houses, and was well furnished with corn.” In connection with this we find a statement made in the documentary History of New York, that some of the tribes belonging to the Iroquois proper, separated from them, and removed to the north of the lake. Now the Indian term, “Keint-he,” be it remembered, was written by an English explorer, and of course was spelled in accordance with the pronunciations of the Indians. Every one knows that the letters of the alphabet have a different sound in the French language. If therefore, a French writer were to write the English term Keint-he, it is not unlikely he would spell it Kanta or Kente. Examining the old French maps, made by some of the early travelers through Canada, but bearing date subsequent to 1677, we find marked with distinctness, an Indian village, sometimes in one place, sometimes another, by the name of Kente. This may be seen on quite a number of different maps, which we have examined in various libraries in Canada, and in the Imperial Library in Paris. It is not always spelled Kente, sometimes it is Kante, and upon one it is Kenti, and upon a map in the Imperial Library, Paris, it is Kento. This Indian village has its location upon most of the maps, at the eastern extremity of Hay Bay; but upon a few it is placed at the south shore of the peninsula of Prince Edward; upon one map it is put at South Bay; while in another Wappoose island, is called Isle de Quinté. Hence it is inferred, that a branch of the Seneca tribe separated from the main body, and removed to the north of the lake, and settled probably first at South Bay, and afterward, or at certain seasons visited at Hay Bay, to which, in time they gave their name—​that of Kente, according to the pronunciation of the French. It was an easy matter to convert Kente into Quinté. In other words, we find that K and Qu are used indifferently among early writers of New France; for instance, Quebec is spelled by early writers, Kebec. The origin of the word Quinté seems to be in this way perfectly clear.

The Indian village of Kente was situated at the eastern extremity of Hay Bay, and it seems plain that this was regarded as the head of the bay by the French, and the waters leading to the village, was designated the Bay Kente, or the Bay to the Kentes. The waters above the entrance to Hay Bay were looked upon rather as the mouth of the River Trent; and as quite another bay, to which was given a different name. This was a water way from Lake Ontario to Lake Huron. Travelers passing along would at times receive imperfect ideas respecting the names of the several bays and lakes. Again, the early French explorers, and the Jesuits, in their maps would frequently give the names, derived from the Indians, in Latin, while later French travelers gave the names in French. The consequence was that several different names were at times bestowed upon the waters stretching between Lakes Huron and Ontario.

One of the old French maps, and perhaps, it may have been prepared before the Kentes had settled upon its shores, gives to the bay the name “Bayedes Couis,” while several islands between the south shore of Lake Ontario, and the north, are called “au des Couis,” as if indicating a line of travel. There is one larger island, called Les Couis.

The waters west of the Long Reach are, in several maps which have been examined, named Lac St. Lion, and Lionel. But whether this name was limited to the uppers waters of the bay, or applied to the Trent, with Rice Lake, is doubtful, inasmuch as the maps represent the River Trent as being very wide and seemingly navigable up to almost the river’s source. Again, the name of Quinto and Quintio are found upon a few maps, and are applied to Rice Lake. A map in the Imperial library, dated 1777, gives to Rice Lake, Quinto, and close by is the village of Tonnaonto; and the Bay Quinté proper, is called Lake Tento. Another map names it Kentsio. There is also a map which gives to Simcoe Lake, the name of Œntarion Lake, instead of Lake Taronto. From these varieties of names, we discover an indistinct connection between the words Kente and Toronto. Their origin and meaning it is impossible to trace. Perhaps they were names used only for a short time. It is worthy of remark, that upon an ancient map examined in the Imperial library, we find Lake Erie called Lac. Conty.

The word Quinté is in one or two places spelled Quintee, and also Quintie. The most common mode of pronunciation was that used by the loyalists. They spelled it generally Canty, or Kenty. Such they heard it called by the French and Indians when they came here; and, unacquainted with the French mode of spelling, they naturally rendered it according to the English idea; and we have found it in letters written, by the first settlers, mostly always spelled “Canty,” or “Cante,” and occasionally “Canta.” The last of these approaches the nearest to the correct way of pronouncing the name; and it is a cause for regret that some years ago there arose the belief that it ought to be called “Quinty.” We would request the inhabitants of the bay, to return to the old fashioned, and correct pronunciation.

The settlement upon the bay was sometimes identified with Cataraqui; being known by the refugees, as well as by those who stayed in the States, only by that name. Indeed, it may be said that all of Upper Canada was, for a few years, designated by that name; the settlements at Detroit and upon the Niagara, contiguous to the fort, being regarded as merely military stations. For many years the name Canada, was limited to the lower Provinces. After a few years the settlement along the bay came to be generally called, both by the settlers, and those who knew them abroad as that of the Bay “Canty.” The writer has in his possession a letter dated from one of the townships upon the bay, in which reference is made to Canada as a place quite distant and distinct from the British settlements.

Mr. Ferguson, in a letter dated at Sidney, 23rd July, 1791, to a person at Kingston, says, “I’ll send you a memorandum of what you’ll want from Canada,” and he further speaks about taking an Indian to Canada. By this we learn that the new townships were regarded as quite apart from Canada.

Before proceeding to speak of the appearance of the bay, a space must be given to speak more particularly of those Aborigines who occupied the territory of the bay, and Upper Canada generally, at the time of the revolutionary war, and from whom the British Government purchased the land to bestow upon the U. E. Loyalists, namely, the Mississaugas.

The meaning of the word Mississauga has reference to “many outlets,” or a place of settlement by the “fork of a stream.” The first notice we have found of this name is upon a map in the Imperial library, dated 1620. It is applied to a lake,—​L’Missauga, or Buade. The location is not far from the source of the Mississippi River, and there is a small stream represented as running from this lake to empty into the Mississippi, the lake is doubtless the Itasca Lake in Minnesota. The Indians, then inhabiting that region, was the “Eastern Sioux.” There is no doubt some identity as to origin and meaning, between Mississippi and Mississauga. It will be remembered, we have in the north of Upper Canada a River Mississippi as well as River Mississauga. The Mississauga Indians first came into notice about the middle of last century, some time before the rebellion. They were then living east of the Georgian Bay upon the lake and the river, both of which have derived names from this tribe. Capt. Anderson thinks they took the name from living by this river, which has many outlets. It may be regarded as a question whether the river gave a name to the tribe, or the tribe a name to the river.

The Mississaugas have been more generally regarded as a branch of the Otchipewas. Father Charlevoix says, they are a branch of the Algonquins.

Towards the end of the seventeenth century, the Iroquois had quite overrun the territory formerly designated by the French “the country of the Northern Iroquois,” and now constituting Upper Canada. As the Six Nations retired to their territory upon the south of Lake Ontario, the Chippewas, or Otchwas and the Mississaugas descended to the north shore of Ontario, the St. Lawrence, and around Bay Quinté. The exact time at which these tribes obtained possession of the land around the Bay, and its Islands, and other parts of Canada, is uncertain. But, long before the settlement of Upper Canada, they were the acknowledged owners of the soil, and Great Britain purchased from them the right of ownership. The first record we have of surrender of land, was by the Chippewas, in 1781, to Gov. St. Clair. The Mississaugas seem to have been a neutral nation, at least, they never appear to have taken any part in the wars between the French and English. But we find that at a great assembly of chiefs and warriors, at Albany, in August 17, 1746, the chief speaker of the Six Nations, informed the English Commissioners that they had taken the Mississaugas as a seventh nation. There certainly seems to have been a very friendly relationship between the Iroquois and Mississaugas.

The Mississaugas were divided into several tribes, or rather, were divided into several villages, which were scattered all along the St. Lawrence, from the river Gananoque to the Bay Quinté, and Lake Ontario. Thus, we find it recorded that “They were dispersed along Lake Ontario, South of Frontenac.” This means Prince Edward particularly; but they were as well settled in little villages at different points. Charlevoix speaks of the Mississaugas as having a village at Niagara and upon Lake St. Clair; most likely at the mouth of the Thames. They likewise had villages along the upper waters of the Trent, and at the Don. Their armorial bearing, or “totem” was the crane, crow, muskrat, and beaver. The Kentes and Ganneyouses, two tribes of the Mississaugas, although taking no part in the wars against the French, had practised upon them a base act of treachery. In 1687, M. de Nonville, who was then Governor of Canada, being at Frontenac, invited these two tribes to the fort to hold a conference, and while there, seized forty or fifty men, with eighty women and children, who were sent prisoners to France.

The French called the Mississauga, while living in the west, the Souter, or Jumpers, because of the numerous rapids in the river Mississauga down which their canoes were wont to jump.

The Mississaugas are of a darker hue than any other tribe in the northern part of America.

The uncertainty that attaches to the Mississaugas as to origin, and the fact that they were not given to warfare; but seemed to be at peace with all native tribes, causes us to think that possibly they may have sprung from the dispersed “Neutral Nation.”

At the time of the settlement of Upper Canada, the Mississaugas seem to have been the principal, if not the sole aboriginal occupants of the land. There are a great many “Mississauga Points” along the Bay, even at the present day, and there was a greater number at the first, all of which indicated the site of an Indian Village. At Cataraqui, just by the old fort, and Tete du Pont, was a Mississauga point, so called from its being the site of an Indian village. For years after the refugees entered, the Indians continued to dwell here, at least during certain periods of the year. The ground whereon a portion of the railway is laid, used to be the scene of many an Indian dance, to the tune of other music than the screaming of the iron horse, although no less inharmonious. Peter Grass was wont to tell of these scenes, whereat fearful orgies were witnessed by the lurid glare of their rude torches. “At the time of the peace, in 1783, the Mississaugas ceded to the Crown large tracts of land in the Johnstown, Midland and Newcastle Districts.”—​(Report).

The whole of the land contiguous to the Bay was purchased from the “Mississaugas of the Bay Quinté.” The Indians, in relinquishing their claims to the land, had guaranteed to them certain stipulated payments yearly, in presents. We find it stated that “every man received two blankets, cloth for one coat and one pair of trowsers, two shirts, several small articles, besides a gun, ammunition, kettles, and other things.”—​(Playter).

“They claim, however, to have retained the following reserves.” Mississauga Point, six miles below Belleville, about 1,200 acres; Grassy Point—​in Sophiasburgh—​about 600 acres; Cape Vesey, in Marysburgh, six miles east of Wappoose Island, 450 acres; Bald Head, at Weller’s Bay, Ameliasburgh, 100 acres. “They also claim the islands eastward from Presqu Isle to Gananoque, Nicholsons’ Island, in Lake Ontario, 250 acres, near West Lake, Wellington; Weir’s or Tubb’s Island, McDonald’s Island, and Sugar Island, in all about 1,000 acres. The islands from Trenton to Kingston, and thence to Gananoque. Also, Green’s Island, Timber Island, False Ducks, with others in Lake Ontario.”

The Commissioners considered that the Indians had claims to compensation for their lands. As for the islands, the following extract from a letter from Sir John Johnson to the Military Secretary, dated Lachine, 9th October, 1797, will show their right to the Islands. “No islands were ceded to the Crown but Grenadier Island and the Islands between it and Kingston; two of which were granted to me, with the lands at Gananoque, by the Governor and Council, together with the Island of Tontine above Kingston, at the entrance of Lake Ontario.” This was Amherst Island.

The portion of the Mississaugas to which the land belonged, were those subsequently known as the Bay Quinté, and the Kingston Indians. The same that lived for a time at Grape Island, and who now reside at Alnwick.

“The acceptance of the surrender of the Indians in 1856, by the Government, is an acknowledgment that these islands had never been ceded by them.”

We thus learn that the Indian claims made to the islands and reserves in Prince Edward, were allowed by the Government. But the Indians claimed also that the treaty of cession, as they understood it when made, did “not include, a portion of land bounded on the north by a line which marks where the waters flow into the Ottawa River, and thence to the south, some thirty miles, to the head waters of some streams which flow towards the Lake, with a length of some sixty miles.” But this claim was not considered as tenable.

According to the testimony of the first settlers, Wappoose Island, at the opening of Smith’s Bay, was the abode of the Indian Chief; at least, he came here yearly to receive the rates from the settlers who had squatted upon it. The Indians went from this to Kingston, to get their presents, which they obtained from one Lyons, who it is said, was the first Indian agent there. He lived a quarter of a mile from the Market Place.

From the several villages, placed by the water board, the Mississaugas were accustomed to ascend up the rivers to the interior of the country for game. Of the different rivers, the Sagonaska, (Moira), was, perhaps, more generally selected. Stoco Lake was a favorite hunting and fishing region, so named after a famous Mississauga Chief, Stougeong. They had a lot reserved at the mouth of the river, and also lot number four, in the second concession of Thurlow,—​altogether 428 acres, which was sold in 1816, for £107. They generally ascended about the last of March, and returned the latter part of December. The writer can remember to have seen their birch canoes, well laden, passing up and down the river. Before the settlement of Belleville, they had their encampment on the plains by the river’s mouth, but in later years they selected grounds some way up the stream. At first the trading post, kept by Chisholm, east of the river on the bay, was a point of attraction to them.

The Indians would make sugar in the spring, and bring it to the settlers in small basswood bags, which they would exchange for different articles.

The Mississaugas being a race of naturally peaceful disposition, the settlers never had any reason to fear them, even had the Canadian Government, like the American, forgot to recognize the rights of the natives, and owners of the soil. When under the influence of liquor they might assume a mock heroic character to intimidate women and children, in order to get something; but no attempt was ever made to disturb the settlers along the Bay.

Every year the Indians would go to Kingston to receive their presents, annually given by Government; sometimes there would be a hundred canoes.

Contents—​Appearance—​Mouth of Bay—​Length—​The Peninsula of Prince Edward—​Width of Bay—​Long Reach—​Course of Bay—​The High Shore—​Division of bay—​Eastern, central, western—​Taking a trip—​Through the Reach—​A picture—​A quiet spot—​Lake on the mountain—​A description—​Montreal Gazette—​Beautiful view—​Rhine, Hudson—​Contrast—​Classic ground—​A sketch—​Birth place of celebrated Canadians—​Hagerman—​A leading spirit—​Sir J. A. McDonald—​Reflections—​A log house—​Relics of the past—​Lesson of life—​In the lower bay—​Reminiscences—​The front—​Cradle of the province—​Shore of Marysburgh—​In the Western Bay—​Cuthbertson—​Up the bay—​A battle ground—​Devil’s Hill—​Stickney’s Hill—​In the depths—​Prosperity—​Geological supposition—​Head of bay—​The past.

BAY QUINTÉ CONTINUED—​ITS APPEARANCE.

Perhaps there is no sheet of water in Upper Canada possessed of greater natural beauty than this arm of Lake Ontario. At the eastern extremity of Ontario, where it merges into the St. Lawrence, with its 1692 islands, on the northern shore, is found the entrance to the Bay Quinté. In the early days of the settlement the name was limited to the waters west of Indian Point, at the extremity of Prince Edward Peninsula. At the present time the Bay Quinté is understood to include the sound between Amherst Island, and Wolfe Island, upon the south, and the mainland to the north. Our history is intended specially to embrace the events connected with the settlement of this region.

The bay, commencing where the St. Lawrence begins its mighty flow, extends in an irregular manner inland to a distance of some 70 miles, its western extremity approaching to within a short distance of the lake; and thus creating a lengthy peninsula, varying in breadth, the greatest being about 25 miles; but with a neck so narrow, that the peninsula is almost an island. The width of the bay varies, averaging about a mile; but in some places it is two miles. Not only is the bay irregular in its direction; but there are many indentations, some several miles in length, which increase the irregularity, and add beauty and variety to the scenery.

The course of the bay from the lower gap, is at first, for some 35 miles almost due west. It then makes a turn toward the north, tending a little to the east; while to the south is an indentation forming the Picton Bay. This portion of the bay is called the Long Reach, and in its length, presents some of the most striking beauties of the whole bay. Extending to the south of the Reach is a lengthy indentation five or six miles long, forming Hay Bay. At the northern extremity of the Long Reach, is another small bay into which the Napanee River empties, called the Mohawk Bay. Here the main body of water makes another turn, and again, stretches almost directly westward, to the head of the bay. At a distance of eight miles from Mohawk Bay there is a material widening of the water. This portion is called Big Bay. The width does not appear so great in consequence of the existence of islands, one of which, the Big Island, stretches along the south shore even the whole length of Big Bay. At the western limits of the wide part, the bay is very narrow by reason of two opposite points, Mississauga and Ox Points, approaching to within a half mile of each other. It is the opinion of geologists, that the channel between these two points is of comparatively recent formation, caused by a sinking of the land, and that the old channel was through the marsh which divides Mississauga point from the peninsula.

The High Shore, which forms so prominent a feature in the scenery of the bay, and the highest summit of which is at the Lake on the Mountain, is a remarkable formation. Commencing in Marysburgh, near the East Lake by the shore of Lake Ontario, it follows the course of Smith’s Bay eastward, down the shore to what is called “the Rock,” thence across the peninsula to the bay and so follows the course of the bay upward, around Picton Bay, and thence along the eastern front of Sophiasburgh to a point opposite Hay Bay. Here the hill leaves the bay shore and takes a westerly course, and stretches away toward the lake, to the south of the Carrying Place.

The Bay of Quinté may be divided into three portions—​an eastern, a western, and a central portion. The eastern and western portions, we have seen, run east and west. The middle portion, connecting these two together, is a reach of some twelve miles and mostly north and south, from Picton Bay to Mohawk Bay. Undoubtedly the “Long Reach” possesses the most attractive scenery, from the waters themselves, along the whole sheet, from Kingston to the Carrying Place. To obtain some idea of the scenery here presented, the reader is invited to accompany the writer, in imagination, upon the steamer from Mill point, Tyendinaga, or the Indian Woods, to Kingston. It is upon a bright morning in September. Leaving the wharf at Mill Point, our boat makes a graceful sweep and turns here prow down the bay toward the Reach. The power of the sun is beginning to be felt, and the mist which has rested upon the waters is gradually rising. After leaving the wharf a few minutes, an angle is reached from which we can look up through the Big Bay almost to Belleville, and, at the same time down the Reach, into Picton Bay. This morning, on glancing upwards, a lovely view presents itself. The water is like glass, from which the mist, here and there, is rising like a sheet of the purest snow. Resting in the glassy bed are several schooners, whose white sails and rigging are perfectly mirrored by the unrippled surface of the water. Turning our gaze down through the Reach, even a more beautiful sight is before us. From this stand point we seem to be looking through, as it were, a telescope, at the distant shores of Picton Bay. The sun’s rays have not yet reached the deep and narrow channel, so that a thick covering of white mist hides the water, excepting here and there, where its lovely blue may be seen, as it reflects the azure sky. A vessel with snowy sails, seems to be resting against the high shore, while its hull is half enshrouded in the fog. To the right, over a point of low land, may be seen the top mast of another vessel, which, in an indentation of the bay, is as if left upon the dry land by a retiring flood. It has always seemed to the writer that this is the most delightful and picturesque spot upon the bay, and he has endeavored, in but an imperfect way, to draw to it the attention of tourists, who may desire to see the more enchanting scenes connected with the bay. Proceeding on our way down the Reach, the steamer stops at Roblin’s wharf upon the right. Here, in a little dell, leading into a peaceful valley pleasantly wooded, which leads up to the high shore, is situated Mr. Roblin’s buildings. For a quiet place in which to live during the summer, where one may forget the cold artificial world, it is unequalled. To the right is the bold high shore, which protects from the northern wind. Spread out before, is a beautiful landscape. There, is another view of Adolphustown, with its many points, and corresponding indentations, the home of peace and plenty. There, is the entrance to Hay Bay, and more directly opposite, the elevated shore, well crowned with trees, still clothed in green.

We now continue our voyage close to the precipitous rocks which form the shore, and presently we approach the mouth of Picton Bay. Here again is obtained a varied and delightful prospect, ere we leave this “Grand Bay,” as it was at first called.

Issuing again from Picton Bay, our steamer glides along in the shadow of the eastern shore, and approaches the Stone Mills, at the foot of the lake on the mountain. The captain will wait until we have ascended, and viewed the lake, and the magnificent prospect spread out around. But the brief time allowed to accomplish the ascent affords no adequate chance to take in the exceeding loveliness, and call to mind the historic events connected with the country within view. So we shall detain the tourist for a days’ inspection of the scene.

The Lake of the Mountain is a curiosity of no mean order. The following, taken from the Montreal Gazette, published in the summer of 1834, is worthy the place we give it:

“The Lake of the Mountain is one of the most remarkable objects in the District of Prince Edward. This singular body of water is about five miles distant from Hallowell, (Picton). It is situated on the top of a lofty eminence, about one hundred and sixty feet above the level of the Bay of Quinté. The manner in which it is bounded is rather singular. In one direction it is only separated from the waters of the Bay below by a ledge of limestone rock, about eighty feet high, and by a precipitous embankment, which extends half way around it. In every other direction it is skirted by a ridge which rises to the height of 40 feet above the level of its surface. This Lake is about five miles in circumference. Its waters are at present applied to propel only a grist mill and a fulling machine. An artificial canal has been cut, along which the water is conveyed to the edge of the embankment, from whence it is conducted by a wooden raceway to the mills, which are situated near the margin of the bay below. The original outlet of the lake is at a few paces distance from the raceway. At this place the surplus waters formerly escaped through an orifice in the precipice I formerly mentioned, and after dashing over the rocks below, ultimately found their passage into the Bay.

“When I first heard of this lake, the most incredible stories were related to me concerning it. The gentleman who first directed my attention to it, absolutely told me that it was supplied by a subterraneous passage from Lake Erie, that there was no inlet in the neighborhood, capable of affording it a supply, and lastly, that it was unfathomable, or that its bottom was lower than that of the adjoining part of the Bay of Quinté. Such information as this, communicated by a well-informed Barrister, did not fail to excite my curiosity, and I accordingly set out to examine it with feelings of considerable anxiety.

“What led to the absurd idea that this lake was supplied from Lake Erie, I am at a loss to understand. It contains no springs, and the banks of that part especially from which it is viewed by strangers, being all so low that no inlet is visible, it might, perhaps, have been thought impossible to account for its source by any other means. The absurdity of the notion is, however, so glaring, that I would not spend a single moment in exposing it, had it not taken strong hold of the imagination of a great proportion of intelligent people residing in this part of the country.

“If the Lake of the Mountain were supplied from Lake Erie, its waters should experience a corresponding rise and fall with those of Lake Erie. This, however, they do not, for last year the waters of Lake Erie were higher than usual, while those of the Lake of the Mountain were very low. Again, this year, the waters of Lake Erie were lower than usual, while those of the Lake of the Mountain are very high.

“Further, if the Lake of the Mountain were supplied from Lake Erie, it should be altogether uninfluenced by any state of the weather in its neighborhood. This, however, is not the case, for in wet weather it becomes high, and in dry weather it becomes low. When I first visited this lake, its waters were nearly upon a level with its banks, and when I saw it some months afterwards, they were seven or eight feet above them. This was after a continuance of dry weather.

“From all this it is evident that Lake Erie does not furnish the supply of the Lake of the Mountain, and that it must be looked for in some other quarter. Being determined to discover from whence this supply was derived, I proceeded along the east side of the lake for about a mile, upon the top of the eminence which separates it from the Bay of Quinté. I then entered the woods and began imperceptibly to ascend, until I found, by again coming in site of the lake, that I had reached an elevation of about forty feet above it. Continuing to proceed for two or three miles, I descended, in the same imperceptible manner, to the place from which I first set out. In the course of this journey, I crossed no less than five different water-courses, four of which were dry at the period of my first visit, but all of which I have since seen pouring out very considerable quantities of water. The fifth is a beautiful stream flowing into the lake over successive ledges of limestone rock, underneath the rich foliage of the trees by which it is overarched. This stream affords the chief supply to the lake, and judging from the appearance of its channel, it must be sometimes upwards of a foot deep. In the spring and fall, when the greatest quantities of water are discharged by it, I have distinctly heard the noise which it makes at a distance of two miles, and on the opposite side of the lake, as it dashes over the rocks. The whole of these rivulets proceed from two extensive swamps. That from which the largest arises is situated to the south west of the lake, and is about three or four miles in circumference.

“The depth of the lake next claimed my attention. Having procured a sufficient length of line, I pushed out upon its waters in a small scow. For a considerable distance we distinctly perceive the bottom, which consists of dissolved, or rather corroded lime, so loose and light that with little or no exertion one may push the whole length of his oar into it. Continuing to look downwards upon the beautiful white bottom as we sail along, we start instinctively upon finding that we all at once lose sight of it, and that we gaze into a deep, dark, frightful abyss, which is formed by the sudden appearance of a precipitous ridge, running right across the lake. Nothing can exceed the amazement—​terror, I had almost called it—​which some people express on finding themselves surrounded by lofty, dark woods, and floating upon the surface of water as black as ink, over an abyss which they have been told is quite unfathomable.

“After having sailed over the lake in every different direction, and taken an immense number of soundings, I found its greatest depth to be only ninety-one feet. The bay below I found to be eighty-two feet. Now as the lake is about one hundred and sixty feet above the level of the bay, it follows that the bottom of the lake is one hundred and fifty-one feet higher than that of the bay.

“Thus, then, it appears that the Lake of the Mountain does not derive its supply from Lake Erie, that its source is to be found in its immediate neighbourhood, that it is not unfathomable, and that its bottom is not lower than that of the Bay of Quinté.

“The Lake of the Mountain is however, an object of sufficient interest, without adding to its wonders those of a subterraneous communication with Lake Erie, and an unfathomable depth. There is, for instance, the very singular manner in which it is separated from the Bay of Quinté, by a wall of solid rock, and the extraordinary form of its basin. The fine views, too, with which the mountain abounds, ought to be sufficient to attract the attention of all those whose minds are capable of enjoying the various forms in which beauty may be contemplated.

“I have visited this place when the surrounding woods shone in all the gorgeousness of summer sunshine. I have viewed it again by the pale moonlight, when the splendour and magnificence of the scene surpassed even what it exhibited when viewed by the broad light of day. The lake below, and the distant bay, appeared like sheets of molten silver, and every object was softened down by the mellow light under which they were viewed. At first the sky was perfectly cloudless, but, in the course of the evening, the scene gradually underwent a change. On the one hand, the moon shone out with a degree of splendour which no one can have any idea of, save they who have beheld her chaste countenance peering above a Canadian forest. On the other hand the thin, fleecy-looking clouds rapidly chased each other up towards the zenith. As the evening advanced, gleams of purple lightning at intervals streamed forth. At length one large cloud which seemed to be the nucleus of the whole, shot from around its margin successive flashes of pure white lightning, unaccompanied by the slightest noise of thunder. As I gazed on the brilliant spectacle before me, it seemed instantly to assume the shape and form of the bust of some gigantic being. The longer I looked at it, the brighter did the lightning blaze around it, and the more forcibly was I impressed with the resemblance. It might have seemed to a superstitious or highly imaginative mind, as if the great Spirit of nature had deigned to reveal himself, amid the grandeur and sublimity of a scene so congenial to his character.

We would supplement this just tribute of praise, and interesting statement; and we venture to say, after having viewed many lovely spots in the old and new worlds, that we know of no lovelier panoramic view than that to be obtained from the Lake of the Mountain, not even excepting the far-famed Hudson, and the classic Rhine. Of course we except the rich relics of the old feudal days, which so picturesquely adorn the mountain tops along the swift running Rhine. But even here we are not destitute of historic reminiscences. True, we have no embattled towers, resting on rugged summits; no castle keeps, with mysterious dungeons, upon whose walls may be traced the letters laboriously cut by long retained captives; no crumbling walls and half-filled moats; no magnificent ruins of graceful architecture. We possess no Tintern Abbey by the quiet waters, to tell of the olden time; no gloomy cloisters where comfortable monks did dwell; nor romantic cathedral whose antique windows admitted but dim religious light. Still, there is something to be said of the past, in connection with our country. From our position here we may examine the classic ground of Upper Canada, and trace the course of settlement followed by our fathers, the pioneers.

At our feet is the bay, and seemingly so near, that one could toss a stone into the clear blue water; and across, at the distance of a mile, though apparently much nearer, lies the low rich land of Adolphustown. To the right stretches, in almost a straight line, the waters of the bay, along which may be seen the well settled shores even to Ernesttown, and over which we get a view of the Upper Gap, where the waters of the bay co-mingle with the more boisterous flood of Ontario. Upon this bright autumn day the view is almost enchanting. The surface of the waters of the several indentions, especially Hay Bay, as well as the main channel, have imparted to them the bright blue of the sky, while the fields of rich green and gold give variety to the scene. This rich landscape spread out before us is really the classic ground of Upper Canada. Within the compass of our view was for several years the western limit of the settlement. We can see, where landed the refugee loyalists to take possession of the land. Along that green and golden sloping shore has slowly passed the batteaux laden with the settlers and their limited household effects; there also has gone the Skenectady boat with its ungainly soil, and toiling rowers. There, upon the rich land of Fredericksburgh and Adolphustown, lived and died many of the fathers of Canada. In the old homesteads, which there gradually arose, were born, and spent their boyhood days, a host of sons, who, moving further west up the bay and lake, planted the townships. From that spot sprang many of Canada’s earliest public men, who passed their younger days among these natural beauties which belong to the bay. Under our eye is the birth-place of Judge Hagerman, Sheriff Ruttan, and others, who have left a name upon the pages of Canadian history. There, upon the front of Adolphustown stands the old Court House, where were held the first Courts of Law of Upper Canada; there flourished the earliest lawyer of the Province, Judge Hagerman’s father, and there pleaded McLean of Kingston, in his robes and powdered wig. And, there yet stands the house where lived the little boy, who, now a man, is the leading spirit in our enlarged Canada. Upon this hill, and up and down its slopes, often played this, the foremost man in British America, Sir John A. McDonald. Those four townships, Kingston, Ernesttown, Fredericksburgh, and Adolphustown, were the early homes of those who faithfully served their country. How many thoughts are suggested as the student of history looks abroad on this the first inhabited land of Western Canada. Many of the present inhabitants here never heard of the noble ones, who have struggled, and whose bones now decay in yon “U. E. burying ground,” just across the water.

Descending the mountain, we will continue our voyage toward Kingston. The next stopping place is Adolphustown, the history of which is given elsewhere. We have to cross the water, and as we approach the landing, we may see the splendid farm where lived the leader of the original settlers, Major VanAlstine. The village of Adolphustown, once one of the most important places in Upper Canada, is now a quiet but pleasant spot, especially during the summer days.

Proceeding on our way, we may observe, just west of Coles’ Point, where settled the very first person in Adolphustown, a small log house. It is much larger than those which sparsely dotted the bay shore seventy years ago. But it reminds one, of the first domiciles here erected. Divided into two, one part having been first built, and the other, when a growing family made it desirable, and means possible. This old log house close by the shore is a lingering specimen of an almost extinct feature of the bay. See here and there those tall poplar trees, brought in by the early settlers from the Hudson valley, and planted in front of the dwelling; many of them are yielding to the tooth of time. These trees generally mark the spot where the settler erected his second home after years of labor had prospered him. In many places they stand erect, but with age stricken limbs, as faithful sentinels over the ashes of the old homestead. Ashes indeed! For the crumbling chimney alone indicates where was once the abode of the pioneer—​of life’s cares and hopes, of doubt and expectation—​of all the ins and outs belonging to the home of the pioneer. We have read to us the lesson of life; there, are the graves of the brave old veterans and pioneers, and there, the dust of their earthly dwellings. Ashes to ashes! Dust to dust!

In the lower bay particularly have come to pass many events of varied import, and fraught with thrilling interest. Here, in times anterior to the French rule in Canada, did the native tribes come to hold their councils, to make treaties, form alliances, or declare war. Here, at the mouth of the Cataraqui; or along the shores toward the little Cataraqui, the French first fixed their place of meeting, and trade with the Indians who lived afar off in the west. Over these waters have Champlain, the French Recollets, the first discoverers, La Salle, Father Hennepin, Chevalier de Tonti, La Barre, Denonville, Conte de Frontenac and others, passed time after time. Over the waters here floated the English under Bradstreet, upon the 25th August, 1750, who, at the break of day were to besiege Fort Frontenac, and to capture it.

The close of the war in 1783, brought the disbanded soldiers and many a refugee. Along the shores passed the whole of the Mohawk Indians on their way to their lands. Here the Nation separated, a small party under Captain John, passing up the Bay of Quinté, while the majority passed up the south shore of the lake to the Grand River. For years after might have been seen day after day, batteaux, singly, or in brigades, and at a later date Skenectady boats, freighted with families old and young, and with a few precious household effects, slowly and laboriously pulling their way to their place of destined settlement. In the war of 1812, the American fleet ventured in at the upper gap and passed along at a safe distance from the field artillery that occupied the shore at Herchimer’s Point. They were essaying to capture the Royal George; but this attempt was as vain as that to overrun our province. Into these waters entered the vessel of war, bearing the officers of Hull’s army from Detroit, which they boastingly had declared would conquer Canada. From these waters issued some of the first sailing vessels of Lake Ontario. Here was likewise built the first steamboats upon the lake and bay, the Frontenac and Charlotte.

Upon the shores of these pleasant waters was commenced the survey of the ten townships around the bay. Here was the starting point of settlement. Here, for many a year, was the central point of Upper Canada. Along from Cataraqui up to Collin’s Bay was the great front of the infant settlement. Going up the bay, even to Adolphustown, was regarded for several years as going far into the backwoods.

Along the north shore of the bay to Adolphustown, were enacted those scenes which constituted the very first events of Upper Canadian history. The front of Kingston township may, indeed be called the birth place, and the front of Adolphustown the cradle, of the province. Every farm along this shore has its history, which if written in the noble spirit that animated the British American Loyalists, would command the attention of the world. These quiet old homesteads now reposing upon the gentle slopes in peace and plenty, tell not of the hardships of the old soldiers and refugees, who, with ticket in hand entered to commence the earnest work of clearing. Mainly, in the third and fourth townships, the officers settled by the bay, while the rank and file took up lots in the second and rear concessions. The first four townships are indeed, the classic ground of Canada.

Nor is the south shore of the bay, Marysburgh, devoid of interest in an historic sense. Reserving for another place a full account of the first settlement by the Hessians, we can but glance at the fact that a band of men without any knowledge of the English language, and unacquainted with the first principles of pioneer life, constituted the first settlers. There, in McDonald’s Cove landed he, after whom the name is given; and there, amid the woods and upon the bright waters, he passed his days.

We commenced our trip and observations at Mill Point, and proceeded down the bay. Let us return, and starting from the same place proceed to the head of the bay, the Carrying Place. This part of the bay possesses less of that picturesque beauty than is found in the part over which we have passed; yet there is much to engage the attention of the tourist.

Mill Point, although a name suggestive of enterprise and of the existence of mills; cannot be regarded with approbation, and it is to be hoped that some appropriate name, commemorating some past event or person, connected with the place, will be bestowed upon it. It was for many years known as “Culbertson’s wharf.” The proper name, however, was Cuthbertson. It was from the son of a Scotch fur trader who became connected with the Mohawks. He lived at Kingston for many years, leaving when he died a natural son and daughter, by a daughter of Captain John. After his death, she and the two children removed to the Mohawk village. It was this son who first built the wharf here, and hence the original name.

Continuing our way up the bay, leaving to the east the pleasant inlet stretching up to Napanee, the first thing to attract our attention is the Parsonage and Indian Church, embowered in the beautiful forest trees. The Parsonage first strikes our view, where resides the amiable and worthy clergyman Mr. Anderson. In front of it is a solitary poplar with the branches partially decayed. It marks the spot upon which the tribe first landed, when they came to the place in 1784. Here they first spread their tents. Somewhat to the east of this stood the first English Church, the foundation of which can yet be traced. Near by sleeps the remains of Captain John, the leader of the tribe, and likewise many other warriors.