Contents—The situation of Kingston—Under military influence—Monopolist—Early history of legislation—In 1810—Gourlay’s statement—Police—Modern Kingston—Lord Sydenham—Seat of government—Perambulating—Surrounding country—Provisions—An appeal for Kingston as capital—Barriefield—Pittsburgh—Building of small crafts—Famous—Roads—Waterloo—Cemetery—Portsmouth—Kingston Mill—Little Cataraqui—Collinsby—Quantity of land—Early and influential inhabitants—Post masters—“Honorable men”—Deacon, Macaulay, Cartwright, Markland, Cummings, Smiths, Kerby—Allen McLean, first lawyer—A gardener—Sheriff McLean—“Chrys” Hagerman—Customs—Sampson, shooting a smuggler—Hagerman, M.P.P.—Removes to Toronto.
It must be admitted, the place did not possess from its geographical situation the requisites for becoming a great city, although its situation at the head of the St. Lawrence, would always secure for it a certain degree of importance. There are evils incident to places, depending upon the military and naval bodies, and these can be seen in connection with the history of Kingston. Anything which drew away for a time, to any extent, either arm of the service, had a damaging effect upon the prosperity, and stagnation resulted in business.
Early Kingston must be regarded as a town growing up in the back woods, with a population governed and influenced more or less by the society of officers and soldiers, and while the former gave dignity and tone to the higher classes, the lower portion of society was correspondingly and for evil, affected by the presence of the soldiers, with the numerous groggeries, and low houses of entertainments, which particularly in former days, were found to exist in connection with military establishments.
In the first years of Canada, speculation was common with a certain class. Land claims could be purchased for a mere song. The holder of a “location ticket,” would often part with his title for a few quarts of rum, while many other holders were glad to sell for a few pounds of ready money, or certain articles of stock. It came that in time, a certain number of monopolists, living at Kingston, held land in the rear concessions and neighboring townships. The Imperial money in Kingston was often spent without contributing to the improvement of the adjacent country. But the time came when the encircling settlers compelled a more generous course of conduct.
But, much obscurity rests upon the history of the first seven or ten years of the village of Kingston. The effort has been made to gather up the fragments pertaining thereto, and arrange them so as to form a connected whole.
Cooper says that “the town was laid out in 1793, being then confined to what is now the eastern portion in the vicinity of the Tête du Pont barracks, and what was then known as the Cataraqui Common, lots 25, 24, 23, on which is situated the chief part of the city, were then farm lots of 200 acres each, and uncleared.”
According to the census roll in the office of the clerk of the peace 1794, the population of Cataraqui village was 345. It would seem that the appearance of the village was not very pleasing. But the surroundings had a certain wild beauty. The first buildings were of the most inferior kind. Kingston now so beautiful in its fine buildings and well appointed streets, had in its first days but the humblest of log tenements, with the rude Indian wigwam for a neighbor. Instead of fair broad streets, and a well ordered park, there was the Indian foot path, and the thick tangled wood, with the stately pine.
In 1793 an act was passed “to fix the times and places of holding the courts of quarter sessions, within the several districts,” according to which it was provided that the courts of the midland district should be held in Kingston, in April and October of each year. This added somewhat to the dignity of the place. Then in 1801, there was created an act to empower commissioners of the peace, to establish a market at Kingston, where might be exposed for sale “butchers’ meat, butter, eggs, poultry, fish, and vegetables.” It was further enacted that all “rules and regulations shall be published by causing a copy of them to be affixed in the most public place in every township in the district, and at the doors of the church and court house of the said town of Kingston, &c.”
In 1810, Kingston was yet a small place. Mr. Miles who moved there at the time says there was not a sidewalk or pavement, and he for a time boarded in one of several log houses close by the market place, “where was no lack of mud in the spring and fall, and it was no uncommon thing for waggons to be pried out by fence rails just north of the market place. Pine trees of the forest yet waved almost over the market place. A thick wood covered Point Henry, and the ground, where now is erected St. Andrew’s Church and parsonage. The limit of the town on the north was at Store Street, now Princess, the last house being on the north east side, Alcott’s old store, and on the west side where Mr. Meadows now resides. The road, for it was then such only after passing, Alcott’s turned to the right, and went a zigzag course northwards, till it reached the second concession, now Waterloo road. This was a distance of five miles from the foot of Store Street.”
A resident writing to the Kingston Gazette, December 26, 1815, among other things, says that the town of Kingston, “possessing so many advantages, it is time that its inhabitants should adopt some plan of improving and embellishing of it. The streets require very great repairs, as in the rainy seasons it scarcely possible to move about without being in mud to the ankles; from the breadth, they will admit of very wide footpaths on both sides, which ought to be paved, at least in every part of the town where the buildings are connected. Lamps are required to light the streets in the dark of the moon. Trees should be planted on each side. The streets should be kept free of lumber of every kind, and piles of wood. A fire engine, with a certain number of buckets, with a company of firemen should exist. But first the legislature must form a code of laws, forming a complete police. To meet expense, government might lay a rate upon every inhabitant householder in proportion to value of property in house.”
Another correspondent under the signature of Citizen, says, “January 27, 1816, that he approves of “A Residents” remarks, and in addition, he suggests that the lower classes follow the example of the liberal spirit manifested among heads of society in the previous summer in contributing to the turnpiking of the streets, and paving the footpaths before their own doors. They ought to imitate, though faintly, that noble and generous example.” Besides this, among other things, Citizen speaks against persons who work at their trades on Sunday, instead of going to church. “Luther,” another correspondent says, there is the noise of hammers and axes from sunrise to sunset, on Sundays.
According to the Kingston Gazette, August 14, 1829, the census taken that year shewed the population of the town to be 3528, but this did not include the military. The number of inhabitants in 1836 was 6000.
At the present time, 1867, Kingston is said to cover an area of 2930 acres, while Toronto boasts of 5885 acres.
R. Gourlay says, in 1816, that Kingston “is now progressing rapidly in population and buildings, as well as in business. From 1811 to 1816 the number of dwellings increased from 130 to 300; but it is estimated that 100 more will have been erected at the close of this year.” Much of this prosperity was doubtless due to the war, causing so many troops to be stationed there; at the same time business and general growth of the City received an impetus which the close of the war failed entirely to arrest. This year a bill passed Parliament “to regulate the police, within the town of Kingston.” More ample provision was made in 1824.
In 1821, a writer says, Kingston was the largest town in Upper Canada, containing about 5000 inhabitants including the military. “The people live in good style, but are not very hospitable; they are mostly in the mercantile business.” The number of inhabitants is probably over estimated, as in 1824 it is stated on good authority, that the population amounts to 2336. “The buildings are of such an inferior description as scarcely to be worthy of notice.”
The events chronicled in this work are mainly those which came to pass prior to 1830, and the history of the first township here recorded must mainly be limited to those early days. It will not, however, be inappropriate to glance, and it will be a mere glance at the Kingston of modern days. The greatest event in connection with Kingston, was the selection by Lord Sydenham, when the Upper and Lower Provinces were united in 1840, into one, for the capital of United Canada. Its claim to that honor as the most central city cannot be questioned. It may fairly be questioned on the other hand whether it was a wise and judicious policy, which caused Kingston to be forsaken, and the perambulatory system to be substituted. Had the Seat of Government permanently rested at Kingston, much expense to the country would have been saved, and at the same time a great deal of heart bitterness stirred up by political agitators, likewise prevented. But the hopes of Kingston as the capital were shortlived, and with the death of Lord Sydenham, in 1842, resulting from an accident, who had been mainly the cause of Kingston becoming the capital, the brightest prospects of the oldest town in Upper Canada, were buried.
In 1845 Government was removed to Montreal. The motives according to Cooper, which had much to do in determining the removal were not such as are supposed to actuate statesmen. After rebutting the charge which it seems had been made, that there was “no surrounding country calculated to furnish marketable produce to a large non-producing population,” and referring to the undoubted facts that the townships along the Bay of Quinté were far more than adequate to meet all the gastronomists wants, he concludes. “It may seem a small consideration when treating of so important a branch of the subject, to take into account these circumstances, but there is no ignoring the fact that the absence of some of these minor luxuries had a serious effect on the minds, and perhaps digestion of some of the officials of Her Majesty’s Provincial Government, and some people at a distance are persuaded that Kingston is a city built on a rock, surrounded with barren and stoney wilds, out of which a bare existence is wrung by the occupants, and but a scanty supply afforded to the City, and in deference to those thus unenlightened, facts are dwelt on which may seem trivial to those in the least acquainted with the neighborhood. Since 1845, when the Government was removed to Montreal, this City has greatly increased in the number of well built and commodious houses, which, with a well regulated and well supplied market, tempting the most fastidious, would prevent even the temporary inconveniences which in that year were felt. If any families had to adopt double-bedded rooms, and to import their own celery in those days, we can now assure them ‘nous avous changes tout cela.’ In short we claim for a City central, indeed almost in the very centre of the Province to be governed, proverbially healthy, substantially built, strongly fortified, well lighted, thoroughly drained, pleasantly situated, abundantly supplied, easy of access, the focus of a net-work of good roads, the outlet of the produce of several rich countries, provided with a good harbour, and enjoying many other advantages, a pre-eminence among all Canadian Cities, as the permanent Seat of the Government of the Province.”
The existence of the Seat of Government at Kingston, although of short duration, had a beneficial effect; many handsome buildings were erected besides those used for the several Public Departments. “The Municipal Legislature of the City was encouraged to make improvements in streets, drainage, sidewalks, and otherwise, and to erect the present handsome and expensive edifice, the City Hall and Market House, though not so useful as it would have been had the Government remained here. The whole building is occupied, and produces a revenue exceeding in amount the interest on its cost. On the whole it may fairly be considered that the City was improved by the temporary location of the Government here.”
Barriefield.—The Cataraqui Bridge, which spans the great Cataraqui River, connects Kingston with the Township of Pittsburgh, the origin of which name is sufficiently well indicated. Close by, is the village of Barriefield, “named after Commodore Barrie, who was head of the Naval Department for many years.” “It forms a sort of suburb to the city, and though not a place of much increase, has been long settled. It has an elevated ground, and from it the visitor obtains a very favorable and pleasing view of Kingston, with its harbors, forts and towers. At Barriefield, are built the best small crafts, skiffs, and pleasure boats in use throughout the Province. They are sent hence to all parts, and their character and build are well known to the aquatic sportsman, and amateur mariner. Not only in the Province, but abroad, these boats are sought after, and in use, some of them being now afloat on the Lake of Geneva. The Kingston, Pittsburgh, and Gananoque, and the Kingston and Phillipsville Macadamized Roads run through this township, opening up the township beyond, and affording to the settler a ready access to a never-failing market. Within this township, are upwards of thirty-eight miles of thoroughly macadamized roads, besides good country roads to and between the concessions. That part of Pittsburgh where Barriefield stands, and for about two miles eastward, was formerly part of the township of Kingston. When the site of the Town of Kingston was first selected, the spot where this village is situated was suggested, but was overruled in favor of the present locality of Kingston, which certainly offered greater advantages for the site of a city.”
Kingston Township contains, not only the city of that name, but various villages; “one of the nearest to that city is that of Waterloo, a very pretty and neat little hamlet, about three miles from town. It contains about 300 inhabitants, and has its Town Hall, Church, Stores, Inns, &c.”
“In the neighborhood of this village, is the Cataraqui Cemetery, laid out on a rising ground crowned by a grove of small pine trees. Much care and skill in landscape gardening has been displayed in rendering the ground picturesque and pleasing; a fine and extended view of the surrounding country, and a pretty glimpse of the Bay is obtained from the Cemetery grounds. This spot is not excelled in beauty and appropriateness, by anything in the Province, and is compared by travelers, who view it, to Greenwood Cemetery, in Brooklyn, N. Y. It covers some sixty-five acres of land, and when ornamented by such numerous and elegant monuments, as the living have erected to mark their respect to the beloved dead in older places of sepulture, will be unsurpassed by the oldest and most beautiful cemeteries known.”
“Portsmouth is another village, about equidistant from Kingston with Waterloo, lying westward on the Lake shore; it was at one time, a very bustling spot, and much enterprise was evinced in ship-building. It suffered, for a time, from the withdrawal of the Seat of Government, and the construction of the St. Lawrence canals, but has now recovered its former prosperity, which promises to continue. The ship-building business has revived, and is carried on with energy and success. In its neighborhood are several handsome houses and villa-residences: the surrounding country offering very inviting spots for building. It contains about 350 inhabitants, and a large amount of rateable property, and has an exceedingly neat unique little Church, in old English style, with a belfry.” Portsmouth is now united to Kingston, by the erection of buildings between them.
Within the Township of Kingston, about five miles from the city, is the old “Kingston Mill.” It is situated upon the Rideau Canal. The traveler, as he passes along by train, over a tubular bridge, will be struck by the beauty and grandeur of the scene. (For particulars, see “Early Years of Upper Canada.”)
Little Cataraqui is a stream of small dimensions, confined to the township. In addition to the Little Cataraqui stream, there is running across the township, the Collins Creek, so named after Surveyor Collins. Not far from its source, in the north east part of the township, is a small, pleasant lake, of the same name, while, at its mouth, is Collins’ Bay. This is a beautiful inlet of the Bay Quinté, and forms a good harbour. The place is known as Collinsby, and is situated about five miles west of Kingston.
The quantity of land in the township, is about 47,906. The soil is principally clay upon a limestone foundation; but still there is much of it capable of bearing good crops, to the careful and scientific farmer.
Thomas Deacon, father of the present Post Master, was Post Master from 1800 to 1836, when his duties in the Commissariat Department obliged him to resign that office. The Hon. John Macauley occupied the post from 1813 to 1836, when he resigned, and was succeeded by the present incumbent, Robert Deacon.
We will supplement the reference we have made to the leading men of Kingston, by giving extracts from a communication we have, at the last moment received, written by one who, now well advanced in life, spent his earlier years of manhood in Kingston, when the first inhabitants were in the afternoon of their life.
The Hon. R. Cartwright, the pioneer merchant, and Judge of Mecklenburgh, seems to have stood next in importance and influence to the Rev. Mr. Stuart. “Among the prominent merchants were Thomas Markland, John Cummings, Peter Smith, John Kirby, and John Macaulay.” They were “all honorable men,” and “members of the English Church,” and of undeviating loyalty. Mr. Markland left a son. John Cummings left no issue. He was a man of “great energy; a magistrate, and filled other offices under the Government.” Peter Smith was “highly respected, upright in all his dealings, and free from any moral or political reproach.” “A fine specimen of an English gentleman.” He “carried with him evidence that he was no stranger to good dinners, and understood the qualities of good wine.” He died at an advanced age, 1825, leaving a son and two daughters.
“John Kirby was another fine specimen of an Englishman. He loved good wine and good dinners. Extremely affable, always in good humor, universally respected. His highest ambition, in the evening of his days, seemed to be the enjoyment of domestic tranquility, and a quiet home, made happy to him by a wife of rare sense, intelligent, and possessed of many amiable accomplishments.” The Hon. John Macaulay had a well disciplined mind, possessed great energy of character, and was decided in his political opinions no doubt, from conscientious motives. In his business transactions “he was scrupulously exact.” “Extremely temperate in his habits. Was one of those who passed through life without exposing themselves to the obloquy of their political opponents.” Allen McLean, Esq., the first Lawyer of Kingston; created such by an order in Council. His “abilities were moderate,” and “his original education defective.” “A man of considerable taste, modest, dignified in his deportment. For many years, was the only legal adviser in the place. He was a faithful representative in Parliament for many years. Was liberal in his political opinions.” “As proof of his good taste, he was proprietor of one of the best gardens in the Province. It covered one acre of ground, and contained many choice fruit trees, such as apples, plums, pears, peach, &c.,—all tastefully arranged, kept in prime order, and defended from the wind by a high wall. He took an honest pride in showing his garden to his friends who called upon him, and was not stinted in distributing its luscious products.” Mr. McLean left one daughter, who became the wife of John McLean, Esq., Sheriff of the Midland District. Christopher Hagerman resided for many years in Kingston. Was, for many years, Custom House Officer, and while so, one of his students (Mr. Samson, afterwards of Belleville) detected a man, by the name of Lyons, in the act of carrying smuggled goods, and ordered him to stop. On his refusing to do so, Mr. S. discharged his pistol, which took effect, the ball passing through the chest. Lyons rushed to his house, a few doors off, and fell exhausted from loss of blood. Mr. Samson, frightened at what he had done, hastened to summon two doctors, Drs. Armstrong and Sampson. This occurred before daylight, on the morning of the 26th June, 1824. The life of Lyons was despaired of for many days; but, eventually, he grew better, and gained a moderate degree of health. It is creditable to Mr. Hagerman, that he cheerfully paid the medical attendants. Mr. Hagerman represented Kingston in Parliament several years. He removed to Toronto, a few years previous to the rebellion of 1836.
Contents—The second town—Ernest’s town—King George—His children—Settlers of Ernesttown—Disbanded soldiers—Johnson’s regiment—Major Rogers’ corps—The “Roll”—Number—By whom enlisted—An old book—Township surveyed—Settling—Traveling—Living in tents—A change—Officers—Names—Occupants of lots—Mill Creek—The descendants—Quantity of land—Village—The settlers in 1811—The main road—Incorporation of Bath—Trading—Fairfield—The library—Bath by Gourlay—Bath of the present—Bath versus Napanee—In 1812—American Fleet—Wonderful achievement—Safe distance from shore—Third township—Fredericksburgh—After Duke of Sussex—Surveyed by Kotte—A promise to the disbanded soldiers—Johnson—Fredericksburgh additional—A dispute—Quantity of land—Extract from Mrs. Moodie—Reserve for village—Second surveys.
The first township was named after His Majesty, the King’s Town, and all of the other townships, both upon the St. Lawrence and Bay Quinté, received names after distinguished loyalty, or some distinguished nobleman, or general of Great Britain, then occupying a prominent position. King George the Third, who died in 1820, aged eighty-two, having reigned sixty years, had a family of fifteen children, whose names were George, Frederick, William Henry, Charlotte Augusta Matilda, Edward, Sophia Augusta, Elizabeth, Ernest Augustus, Augustus Frederick, Adolphus Frederick, Mary, Sophia, Octavius, Alfred, Amelia. These royal names were appropriated to the townships, towns, districts, &c.
Ernesttown was so named after Ernest Augustus, the eighth child of the King.
The first township, we have seen, was chiefly granted to Captain Grass and the band of loyalists who came from New York under his guidance, notwithstanding some objection from Sir John Johnson, and the officers of his regiment. The second township, however, and also the third, were allotted to the 2nd battalion of the 84th regiment, commonly called Sir John Johnson’s regiment, also the King’s New York Royal Rangers. The regiment was generally designated, by the rebels, as the Royal Greens. This body of men took a conspicuous part in the war—took a noble part, although those who feared them, and were unequal to meet them in successful combat, endeavoured to malign them. The history of this regiment is referred to elsewhere, and as well that of the distinguished founder. The writer has in his possession the “roll of the 2nd battalion of the King’s Royal Rangers, New York,” containing the names of the parties by whom each of the soldiers was enlisted, which will be found in the appendix.
By this it is learned that the whole number of the company was 477. That Sir John Johnson enlisted 88, Major Ross 47, Captain Leahe 17, Guminall 38, Munrow 29, Anderson 1, Lieutenant Halbert 1, Captain McKay 95, Morrison 30, Singleton 1, Major Gray 2, Captain Crawford 2, John McDonell 2, Lieutenant Langan 30, Langhn 2, Lieutenant Wair 1, French 1, C. McAlpine 1, Ensign Thompson 1, Lieutenant McKay 2, Sergeant Howell 2, Tipple 1, Ensign Smith 3, and 69 by whom, it is not stated, they were enlisted. This roll was afterwards a precious document, when it became necessary to prove that one was truly a U. E. Loyalist. The book in which this roll is found, seems to have been an account book kept by the Adjutant, Fraser, and is dated at Oswego, 28th November, 1782. Subsequently, it was used as an account book by “Captain Crawford’s company.” We believe it was after his death that the book came into the possession of Mr. Sills. It is an interesting relic of the past, and ought to find a lodgement in some museum.
Many of these disbanded soldiers were from the Mohawk valley and Upper Hudson. The majority were from the old Johnston district, and not a few of Dutch origin. These honest and industrious settlers are represented to-day by wealthy and valuable citizens, whose names unmistakably indicate the stock from which they have descended.
This township was surveyed probably in 1784. It may be that a base line was run in the fall of 1783. By looking at the map of this township, it will be seen that the lots are marked, like those of Kingston, from west to east, showing that the base line was run along the whole length, and then subsequently the survey completed from the west.
In the early spring of 1784, came the soldier settlers; the 1st battalion, commonly called Jessup’s Corps, settled on the St. Lawrence, in Edwardsburgh and Augusta, while the second, or Rogers’ Corps, passed up to the Bay of Quinté. Respecting this regiment, the following will prove appropriate, from the pen of the historian of the County of Dundas. “At the close of the war, this regiment was stationed at the Isle aux Noix, a fortified frontier post at the northern extremity of Lake Champlain, which has been mentioned as an important fortress during the old French war. Here they passed a whole year, and were employed in adding to the already extensive fortifications of that island. While they remained there thus employed, two Government surveyors, named Steichmann and Tewit, were actively engaged surveying the County of Dundas, for their future occupation. Late in the autumn of 1783, the soldiers were joined by their wives and little ones, who had wandered the weary way afoot, to Whitehall, through swamps and forest, beset with difficulties, dangers, and privations, innumerable. The soldiers from Isle aux Noix met them there, with boats, and conveyed them the rest of their journey by water, through Lake Champlain. Imagination fails us when we attempt to form an idea of the emotions that filled their hearts, as families, that had formerly lived happily together, surrounded with peace and plenty, and had been separated by the rude hand of war, now met in each others embrace, in circumstances of abject poverty. A boisterous passage was before them in open boats, exposed to the rigors of the season—a dreary prospect of a coming winter, to be spent in pent up barracks, and a certainty, should they be spared, of undergoing a life-time of such hardship, toil, and privation, as are inseparable from the settlement of a new country. As soon as the journey was accomplished, the soldiers and their families, were embarked in boats, sent down the Richelieu to Sorel, thence to Montreal, and on to Cornwall, by the laborious and tedious route of the St. Lawrence. The difficulty of dragging their boats up the rapids of this river was very great; to us it is really quite inconceivable. Arrived at Cornwall, they found there the Government Land Agent, and forthwith proceeded to draw by lottery the lands that had been granted to them. On the 20th of June, 1784, the first settlers landed in the County of Dundas.”
Not unlikely some of the 2nd battalion were stationed at Carleton Island and Oswego, up to the time that settlement took place. We learn that Captain Crawford’s company at least was at the latter place in 1782. However, it seems clear that most of the battalion was in Lower Canada, and came up with the first battalion. The survey was not yet completed, and they pitched their tents along the shore, waiting until the work of drawing lots was accomplished. In the meantime, they passed their days as best they could; not knowing where their lot would be cast, they could not proceed with the clearing of land. The writer has been told by one who, passing up during this summer, saw the tents spread along the shore, upon whose brink the primeval forest yet stood in all its native beauty. Now, had they been stationed at Carleton Island or Oswego, it is not likely they would have thus come before they could enter upon their work of settling.
The camp tents in use by these disbanded veterans were the same they had occupied in their campaigning. How great the change to them. The alarm of the coming foe, the thought of approaching battle, the cannon’s roar, the rattle of small arms, no longer disturbed their dreams, nor sounded upon their ears. The battle cloud had passed away, leaving but a wreck of their worldly goods, and there was a great calm—the calm of the desert wilderness, unbroken even by the sound of the pioneer’s axe—the calm of a conscience quieted by the thought that all had been sacrificed in a righteous cause. They had met and conquered many a foe; but the fate of war had driven them to the desert wild, to encounter new fears, to fight the battle of the pioneer. How they succeeded; how glorious the victory, is written, not merely by our own feeble hand elsewhere—it is indelibly inscribed upon the pages of the townships, by the tillers of the soil.
In this township as well as elsewhere, the officers seem to have had the choice of lots upon the front, while the rank and file took possession of the rear lots. Among the officers who settled on the front of Ernesttown and Fredericksburgh, may be found the names of Lieut. Church, Lieut. Spencer, Capts. Crawford and Thompson, Ensign Fraser, Capt. Howard. According to John Collins Clark, son of Robert Clark, the first lots were taken up in the following order, commencing at the easternmost lot, No. 42:
Lot 42 was first occupied by David Purdy; Joshua Booth, Esq., married to a daughter of David Fraser, lived on Lot 40 or 41; Mr. Nicholas Lake, Lot 39, but soon left it; Lot 38 was settled by Capt. Wm. Johnson; William Fairfield, sen., Lot 37. He had twelve children, all of whom lived to marry. Daniel Rose commenced a settlement on Lot 30, but in a few years left, and removed to the third concession. Matthias Rose, sen., settled on Lot 35, he died in his 90th year. Lot 34 and east half of 33, were settled by Robert Clark, Esq. His wife was a Ketcham, they had five sons and a daughter; he died at the age of 80 years. His eldest son, Matthias, had twelve sons. West half of Lot 33 was occupied by John Longwell. The east half of Lot 32 was first owned by John Sayer; the west half by Simon Swarts. Lot 31 was school land, first occupied by Michael Phipps and William Sole. East half of Lot 29, owned by a German named Gedd, west half occupied by Daniel Fraser, Esq., though not the first settler on that lot. Sebastian Hogle, John Lake, and John Caldwell settled Lots 27 and 28, but soon removed back into the concessions. James Parrot, Esq., a half-pay officer, settled Lot 26; he afterward sold this lot to Adam Stanring, from the Mohawk River. The next settlers, continuing westward, were Jacob Miller, Frederick Baker, Wigant (Lutheran clergyman), John Mabee, Joseph Huff, a waggon maker, Adam Peat, a tailor, Nicholas Amey, Simon Snider, David Williams, generally called Sergeant Williams, a blacksmith, Joseph Losee, Lieut. John Dusenbury. Lieut. Best soon left, and Dusenbury died. Lot 19, has latterly been partially laid out into village lots, and a number of buildings erected. Lot 18 was a Government mill lot. It was leased for some years by Joshua Booth. From the number of mills subsequently erected on the stream, that empties here, it obtained the name of “Mill Creek.” Lot 17, settled by William Cottier which was afterward owned by A. D. Foward. There were several occupants of the next lot; and the next was settled by Brisco, and the next by Richard Robins. Then came one by John George. Lot 11, now a part of Bath, was owned by George McGinnis, a half-pay officer, who sold to Fairfield. No. 10, on which is situated most of the village of Bath, was occupied by John Davy. No. 9 was owned by James Johnson, father of the celebrated “Bill” Johnson, the traitor of 1812. The next was settled by Jeptha Hamley, Esq. Westward lived Matthias Rose, William Rose, Wilcox, Shibley, then Finkle, Brisco, Huffman, Pruyn, Williams, Church, &c. As a general thing, the sons of the first settlers, settled in the rear concessions. At the present time, says Clark, there are not more than 10 or 12 of the farms on the front owned by the descendants of the original settlers.
The township of Ernesttown contains 68,644 acres, all of which is excellent land with the least exception, so that the pioneers were not the losers in having this township allotted to them instead of Kingston. However, at that time the distance from Carleton Island and Cataraqui seemed considerable. The land being good, and the settlers industrious, as a general thing, the time was not long, when the township became the best cultivated, and most wealthy, not alone around the Bay of Quinté but in the whole of Western Canada. The richness of the soil, and lying more immediately at the mouth of the Bay, contributed to its prosperity, and a village before many years sprung up, which for a time rivalled even Kingston itself, in respect to rapid increase of inhabitants, the establishment of trade, building of ships, and from the presence of gentlemen of refinement and education, and in the foundation of a library and a seminary of higher education.
Gourlay says, in 1811, that “the settlers are most of them practical husbandmen. Their farms are well fenced, well tilled, and accommodated with barns.” There are now above 2,300 inhabitants, a greater number than are found in any other township in the Province. They have three houses of public worship, one Episcopalian, one Presbyterian, and one Methodist. In 1817, Ernesttown had “one parochial academy in the village, and thirteen common schools over the township.”
In some of the townships first surveyed, a plot was reserved at the front, and subsequently laid out into town lots. Such was the case in Ernesttown, seemingly. At all events a village sprung up at an early period, on the front of the tenth lot. It was for a long time known as the Village of Ernesttown; but in time, after the war of 1812, it acquired the name of Bath, probably after the beautiful English town of that name. The distance of Bath from Kingston is about eighteen miles, and the road leading thereto was one of the first constructed in Upper Canada, and the country there was regarded as the very centre of civilization in the Province. For a long time the main road between Kingston and York passed by Bath, even after it was no longer solely by the way of Prince Edward and the Carrying Place. A branch of the main road passed from this place to Napanee, and thence to Thurlow and Sidney. Bath was regarded as a city in embryo. Its progress was onward, until the war of 1812. Gourlay says of it in 1811, that “it promises to be a place of considerable business.” But the war dealt a serious blow to the place, from which it never recovered fully. The Kingston Gazette, of 1816, remarks, to the effect, that the village is emerging from its depression, and that it ought to be made a post town, and a port of entry. In the summer of this year Samuel Purdy started a public conveyance between Kingston and Bath. The following year the Steamer Frontenac and Charlotte were commenced here. In 1818 a bill was introduced into Parliament “to constitute the town of Bath—to provide for laying out and surveying town lots and streets, and a market-place therein, and regulating the police thereof.”
The first person to engage in the trading business at Bath was Benjamin Fairfield.
Thus wrote Gourlay, of Bath, in 1811: “From the lake shore the ground ascends about seventy rods, and thence slopes off in a gentle northern descent. The ascent is divided into regular squares by five streets, laid parallel with the shore; one of them being the lower branch of the main road, and all of them crossed at right angles by streets running northerly. One of these cross streets is continued through the concession, and forms that branch of the main road which passes round the Bay of Quinté. On the east side of this street, at the most elevated point, stands the church, and on the opposite side is the academy, overlooking the village, and commanding a variegated prospect of the harbour, the sound, the adjacent island, the outlets into the open lake, and the shores stretching eastward and westward, with a fine landscape view of the country all around. The situation is healthy and delightful, not surpassed perhaps in natural advantages by any in America. The village is increasing in buildings, accommodations, inhabitants, and business, and seems calculated to be the central point of a populous and productive tract of country around it.”
A stranger visiting Bath to-day, having read of its early and enterprising days, will not unlikely feel a pang of disappointment. We are sorry to say that the place presents a tumbling-down appearance. A large brick building, built in 1809, to accommodate what was then the largest Free Mason lodge in the province, has a large rent in it, as if an enemy’s cannon ball had penetrated and shattered it. Prominently situated it attracts great attention. The quietness of the place reminds one of Goldsmith’s deserted village. Within our own recollection, ship building was carried on here; but now nothing indicates the place of busy enterprise; there is nothing but the plain unbroken beach, where was constructed the first steamboats built in Upper Canada. The literary spirit that led to the establishment of a library here at an early date, we fear has departed—gone with the spirit of those who nobly conceived the project—gone as lawyers Macaulay, Fairfield, and Ridwell, who here entered upon promising careers of professional usefulness. The glory of Bath has not ceased to depart; year after year it has lost some element of importance to its existence. The rich country around for many years poured into this charming village its ever increasing supplies. The merchants of Bath exchanged goods for the produce, and became rich; but now, Napanee, affording a greater variety of the necessaries and luxuries for family use, draws a large majority of the well-to-do yeomen, who there spend their money. Occasionally, a grain buyer may be able to offer a little higher price here, yet the farmer takes his money to spend in Napanee. Times, indeed, have changed since the denizens of Bath regarded their village as a rival of Kingston; when enterprise sought here a larger field in which to drive business, and men of education adorned society, and gave refinement and superior advantages to its people. Then Napanee was in the backwoods—a place regarded as we do now the settlements upon the Hastings’ Road; and those who lived there were removed from the centre of civilization. But now the iron horse speeds along by the old York Road; and Bath of Canada, like its great namesake at home, although still beautiful, is interesting, mainly from its past associations.
It was the citizens of Bath who first saw the American fleet in 1813 approaching the shore. The early morning sun saw the inhabitants very shortly aroused to action. The old veterans, who for so many years had used the plow and the axe, anxiously enquired for their old weapons of warfare. Mrs. Perry tells us that she distinctly remembers that the word came to her father’s while they were at breakfast, that the enemy was entering Bath. Her father, then fifty-eight, forsook his breakfast and sought his gun. But before he and his sons reached the village, the fleet had passed on toward Kingston. Three of his sons, hurried on to Kingston. In like manner, all along the front, arose the men of seventy-six, with their sons; and their arms flashed in the morning sunlight. The enemy had won at Bath a great victory. They had stolen in at the early dawn, when no foe was there, and actually had succeeded in taking and burning the schooner Benjamin Davy.
The early settlers sometimes called it the “Township of Frederick.” It was called after Augustus Frederick, the Duke of Sussex, ninth child of the king.
According to the original plan of this township, preserved in the Crown Lands’ Department, it was “surveyed in 1784 by James Pearly Lewis Kotte, Henry Holland, and Samuel Tuffe.”
The limits of the second township having been defined, the third was also planned. Having fixed the base line, which formed a slight angle with that of the second town, over the width of twenty-five lots, it was at first, the intention to limit the township to this extent of frontage; and the lots were consequently completed and numbered from west to east, as had been done with the first two townships. But it turned out that this would not meet the requirements of Sir John Johnson’s disbanded soldiers, to whom the promise had been made that they should be located in a township by themselves. The result was, that the wishes of this corps’ were gratified, and the township was enlarged to the extent of thirteen additional lots, which the map will show are numbered from east to west, and which indicate that the lots were completely surveyed before they were numbered. That portion of the third town included in the portion first numbered, received the name of “Fredericksburgh Original,” and that subsequently added, was called “Fredericksburgh Additional.” The original intention of the surveyor, was to have the latter portion form a part of the fourth township, which would have effected a more equal division of the land; but the disbanded soldiers did not wish to pass under the control of other officers, such as held command of the settlers of the fourth township. Indeed, as will be more particularly pointed out in connection with that township, Adolphustown had well nigh been entirely consumed by the renewed arrivals of Rogers’ men. There need be no wonder that the old soldiers should thus desire to remain side by side under a common commander, in the wilderness field, to fight the stern battle of pioneer life, and to convert the wilderness into homesteads. The fact that numbers of each battalion were unwilling to settle, except under their own officers, reveals the spirit of the times: it tells us how much the settlement partook of a military character, and the feeling of attachment which existed between the officers and men, as well as among the rank and file. It would not do that the same lots should be occupied as a part of the fourth town under Captain VanAlstine; they must be severed from that township, and united to Fredericksburgh, under the jurisdiction of their old major.
Fredericksburgh contains 40,215 acres of the very best quality of land. The following is taken from Cooper’s Essay, by the pen of the talented Mrs. Moodie. “We approach Fredericksburgh: this too is a pretty place, on the north side of the bay; beautiful orchards and meadows skirt the water, and fine bass-wood and willow-trees grow beside, or bend over the waves. The green smooth meadows, out of which the black stumps rotted long ago, show noble groups of hickory and butternut, and, sleek fat cows are reposing beneath them, or standing midleg in the small creek, that wanders through them, to pour its fairy tribute into the broad bay.” In 1811, the township had “a large population, and many excellent farms, an Episcopal Church (subsequently burnt), and a Lutheran Meeting-house.”—(Gourlay).
There was also a “reserve” for a village in this township at the front, which, however, never grew into a village.
In 1798, an act was passed, the object of which was to ascertain, and establish the boundary lines between the townships by which irregularities might be removed. In 1826, a special act was obtained “to make provision for a survey of the first, second, and third, concessions of Fredericksburgh, original, and the whole of Fredericksburgh, additional.” It was enacted that the eastern boundary line of the said township, otherwise known as the line between lots number twenty-five, and the Gore, in the said second and third concessions, shall be, and the same is hereby declared to be, the course or courses of the respective division or side lines of lots or parcels lying in the aforesaid tract of land; and all surveyors shall be, and are hereby, required to run all such division or side lines of any of such lots or parcels of land, which they may be called upon to survey, to correspond with, and be parallel to, the aforesaid eastern boundary line.
Contents—The Fourth Township—Adolphustown—After Duke of Cambridge—Quantity of Land—Survey—Major VanAlstine—Refugees—From New York—Time—Voyage—Their Fare—Names—Arrived—Hagerman’s Point—In Tents—First Settler—Town Plot—Death—The Burial—A Relic—Commissary—Dispute of Surveyors—The Settlers—All things in common—An Aged Man—Golden Rule—Old Map—Names—Islands—The Township—Price of Land—First “Town Meeting”—Minutes—The Officers Record—Inhabitants, 1794—Up to 1824—First Magistrates—Centre of Canada—Court Held in Barn—In Methodist Chapel—“A Den of Thieves”—Court House erected—Adolphustown Canadians—Members of Parliament—The Courts—Where first held—Hagerman—Travelers tarrying at Adolphustown.
The Fourth Township westward from Fort Frontenac, was, some time after its survey and settlement, named Adolphustown, after Adolphus, Duke of Cambridge, the tenth son of King George III. The Township contains about 11,459 acres, and was surveyed in 1784, by Surveyor-General Holland.
In the year 1783, a party of Loyalists sailed from the port of New York. They were under the command of Capt. VanAlstine, with a fleet of seven sail, and protected by the Brig “Hope,” of forty guns. Some of this band had served in the army, in an irregular way, more had been in New York as refugees. VanAlstine although commissioned to lead this company, it would seem, had not been in the service—was not a military man, but a prominent Loyalist of the Knickerbockers. But these refugees, in setting out for the unknown wilderness, were provided with camp tents and provision, to be continued for three years, and with such implements as were given to the disbanded soldiers, as well as a batteau to every four families, after arriving at their place of destination. The company were mostly from the Counties of Rockland, Orange, and Ulster, on the east side of the Hudson, and Westchester, Duchess, and Columbia, on the west.
They sailed from New York on the 8th Sept. 1783, and arrived at Quebec, 8th Oct. Many were undecided whether to remain in the Lower Provinces, or go on to Canada. The events of this voyage; this departure from old homes, to penetrate the unknown north, are even yet held in remembrance by their descendants. Thus, it is told, that after leaving New York a few days, a shark was observed following the vessel, which created no little consternation. It continued to follow for many days, until a child had died and been consigned to the deep, after which it was no longer seen. The Government rations with which they were supplied, consisted, as the story has been told the writer, of “pork and peas for breakfast; peas and pork for dinner; and for supper, one or the other.” The party proceeded from Quebec thence to Sorel, where they spent the winter. They inhabited their linen tents, which afforded but little protection from the intense cold. While staying there, it was determined to grant them a township on the Bay Quinté. The first Township had been granted to Capt. Grass, the second and third were to be possessed by Johnson’s Second Battalion; so VanAlstine’s corps were to have the next township. Surveyor Holland was engaged in completing the survey, and even then, had his tent pitched on the shore of the fourth township. The party left Sorel 21st May, 1784, in a brigade of batteaux, and reached the fourth township on the 16th June. The names of some of those who composed this party, were: VanAlstine, Ruttan, Huycks, Velleau, Maybee, Coles, Sherman, Ballis, three families of Petersons, Loyce, VanSkiver, Philip and Thomas Dorland, Cornelius VanHorn, VanDusen, Hagerman, father of the late Judge Hagerman, Angel Huff, Richard Beagle, John and Stephen Roblin, Fitzgerald, Michael Stout, Capt. Joseph Allan, Hover, Owen Ferguson, John Baker, Wm. Baker, German, Geo. Rutter, James Noxen, John Casey, Benj. Clapp, Geo. Rutledge, David Barker, Owen Roblin.
It is a curious fact, fully attested by the Allison’s, the Hover’s and others, that as the batteaux slowly wended their way along the shore, having passed the mark which indicated the boundary of the Third Township, several of the passengers, gazing upon the woods, expressed a wish to possess certain places, according to the fancy of each; and, strangely enough, the Cole’s, the Hover’s, the Allison’s, the Ruttan’s, and others, did actually come respectively into possession, by lot, in accordance with their previously expressed wish.
The company had reached the land whereon they were to work out their future existence. The writer has driven upon the ice along the Bay, following, it must have been, almost the way taken by this party, as they landed. They passed along the present Adolphustown wharf, westward nearly half a mile, and rounded a point known as Hagerman’s Point. Here a small, but deep stream empties itself, having coursed along a small valley, with sloping sides, in a westerly direction. They ascended this creek for nearly a quarter of a mile; and proceeded to land upon its south side. Between the creek and the bay is a pleasant eminence; it was upon its slopes the settlers, under VanAlstine, pitched their tents. The boats were hauled up; and among the trees, the white tents were duly ranged. Thus housed, and thus far removed from the busy haunts of men, this community continued to live for many days. Steps were taken at an early day to draw lots for land. As so much of the township was washed by the waters of the bay, there was not the same anxiety among the settlers with respect to the decision of the ballot. Every one drew his number, with one exception, and this was a notable one, as indicating the noble feeling of brotherhood which lived in the breasts of the noble band of refugees. The exception was not in favor of the person in command, or a particular friend. Mr. Cole had expressed a liking for the first lot, now known as Cole’s Point, and he, having a large family and consequently more anxious to get on his land, and get settled for the winter, and the land ready for the next summer, was immediately, by universal consent, put in possession of the lot; and he even that year raised some potatoes.
In addition to the 200 acres granted to each of the company, there was a town plot, consisting of 300 acres, regularly laid out into town lots of one acre each, and one of these was granted to each of the settlers. This plot thus surveyed, it was believed in time would become the site of a town.
While they were yet living in their tents one of their number died, a child it is said by some. The dead was buried close by, under a tree. When others came to die, they also were buried here, and thus was formed the “U. E. Loyalist burying ground.”
The second person buried in this place, while it was yet a woods, was Casper Hover. Shortlived was his career as a pioneer. But a few months had passed, and he had barely taken possession of his land when, one day engaged in clearing off the land, he was struck by a falling limb and killed. A blow so sudden was felt not alone by his own family, but by all the settlers. Imagination cannot call up the heart-stirring scene of this burial in the woods by his comrades. As there was yet no roads nor path, not unlikely the body was conveyed by batteau from Hover’s farm to the burying ground. The coffin must have been made of rough green boards, split out of logs, or perhaps made with a whip saw. There was no minister to discharge any rights belonging to the dead, or improve the events for the spiritual welfare of the living.
Casper Hover had for his wife Barbara Monk, a relative of Barbara Heck, well known for her connection with early Methodism in the new world. There remains now in possession of Joseph Allison, of Adolphustown, whose wife was a Hover, a pewter platter which belonged to Barbara Monk. It is a relic of no ordinary interest. Barbara Monk was a descendant of the Palatines, and this platter was carried by her ancestors when they were forced to leave the Palatinate. They took it with them to Ireland, thence to New York, and finally it was brought by Barbara to Adolphustown, with VanAlstine’s company. The writer has had the satisfaction of examining this relic of former days. It is a round dish, of solid metal, 16 inches broad, and weighing over five pounds. It bears no signs of wearing out. This article of household usefulness is, or was in the past, regarded as a township one, and was famous for its associations with innumerable pot pies. For many a year when there was a bee, or a raising, or a wedding, the pewter platter was engaged to do service.
The stores of provisions for the settlers in this township, were placed under the care of VanAlstine himself; but it would appear, from the statements of some, that Philip Dorland gave his assistance, and to some extent, was responsible, acting under the instructions of a committee, for the distribution to the families. Also, one Emery, was connected with the department.
It would seem that Surveyor General Holland, who surveyed the fourth town, and Deputy Surveyor Collins, who surveyed third town, had some trouble with respect to “Fredericksburgh additional.” The number of lots composing the third township at first, was not enough to supply the whole of the battalion; having been promised lots in the same township. When it was seen that all could not be accommodated in the lots of third township, it was determined to take a certain number from the fourth township. To this Surveyor Holland consented, probably with the concurrence of Major VanAlstine. But more of Rogers’ company continued to come; and Collins wished to absorb the whole of the fourth town, to accommodate them. In this he was, no doubt, supported by officers of the battalion; Sir John Johnson among the rest. But Holland, in the interest of the company, which had already settled in the fourth town, under VanAlstine, objected. The statement comes to us that Holland and Collins had well nigh fought a duel in connection with the matter. As Collins was a deputy under Holland, there must have been some strong influence supporting the former, which was probably through Sir John Johnson. But Holland, having completed the survey of the side lines as he desired, started precipitately to Quebec with his report. Collins hearing of this, started after. Whatever may have been the contest at head quarters, Holland’s report of the fourth township was received, and the third township was limited to its present size.
Mr. Joseph Allison, says, respecting the settlement, that “what was one’s business was everybody’s business, they were all dependent on each other.” Each concession was considered a neighbourhood, each being about four miles in length. After the trees were felled and the brush burnt, then came on the logging bees, and every man had to give an account of himself, if he should be missing when notified. There were no aristocrats, from Major VanAlstine down to the humblest individual. Each had to do what he could. They were perfectly organized in this branch of business, being divided into companies or squads of six; and each squad had to take a regular “through” of about six or seven rods wide, piling all the timber in their respective “throughs.” These logging bees were always attended with much strife, all striving to be ahead; and as they were always used to their rations of rum, they must, on these occasions, have all they wanted. Then, in the evening, they must have their dance. It was considered the privilege and duty of all the women in the neighbourhood to attend and assist in cooking, as many of the settlers were bachelors. Indeed, if there was a wedding, in one of the concessions, all had a right to attend, belonging to the neighbourhood. These pioneers of Adolphustown were a wonderfully hardy set of men, possessed of great physical powers, although inured to hardships of a very pressing kind. They lived to a great age; very few of them died under eighty, and two of them lived to be over a hundred. John Fitzgerald was the oldest man that came with VanAlstine, he died in 1806, aged 101; Daniel Cole was 106, when he died. The leading men of the settlement were VanAlstine, Captain Peter Ruttan, Michael Stout, the Dorlands, and Nicholas Hagerman. If any dispute or grievance arose, it would be left to some one to settle, but they all, with very few exceptions, tried to do as they would wish to be done by.
“Joseph Allison was a whip-sawyer by trade, and assisted to saw the first boards that were used in the buildings. He drew lot 17.”
Examining an old map in the Crown Lands Department, certain names are found written upon the Islands and Points of Adolplustown. The southern extremity has upon it the name of Lieutenant Michael Vandervoort. The adjacent island has Lieutenant Samuel Tuffee, and P. V. Dorland. Proceeding around the point to the north, the first indentation of the bay is named Bass Cove. The next point is for John Speers, and Humphrey Waters—called on the map “Speers and Waters lot, 150 acres.” The next cove is called Perch Cove, and the next point is for Lieutenant Samuel Deane, 100 acres. Then comes Little Cove. The bay off these points is called “Grand Bay,” northward to where Hay Bay commences, it is called “The Forks,” while Hay Bay is designated “East Bay,” and up toward the Mohawk Bay it has the name of “the North Channel;” Casey’s Point on the north shore of Hay Bay is called Green Point, and the land there is allotted to Philip and Owen Roblin.
Beside those mentioned, as forming a part of VanAlstine’s company, there were, among the first settlers of Adolplustown, and probably of VanAlstine’s party: Angel, William and John Huff, Thomas Casey; and at a later period came “Billy” Monroe, John Roblin, John and James Canniff, Philip Flagler, Carnahan, Robert Short, Fisher, and Captain Allan.
In some respects Major VanAlstine’s company were better off than the soldier pioneers. Although they had to come a long distance by ship, and ascend the St. Lawrence in small boats, which precluded the possibility of bringing to the country many articles for family use; yet they could fetch with them some things to contribute to family comfort, beside clothing.
The township being almost surrounded by water, and having many indentations of the bay, there was thereby afforded the most advantageous place for the settlers, whose only mode of traveling was by boat. Every concession has communication with the bay. The township is the smallest in the Province, containing but 11,459 acres. The land at first, it is said, could be had for “one shilling an acre,” and half of lot 15, of 100 acres, was sold for a “half joe”—£8.00. In contrast to this, in 1817, there was “no land in the township which could be procured for less than £4 an acre,” and few would sell at that price. Although so well provided with a water way for travel, good roads were early constructed.
The following are the minutes of the first “Town meeting” held in Adolphustown, on the 6th of March, 1793, for which we are indebted to Mr. J. B. Allison.
“The following persons were chosen to officiate in their respective offices, the ensuing year, and also the regulations of the same.”
“Ruben Bedell, Township Clerk; Paul Huff, and Philip Dorland, Overseers of the Poor; Joseph Allison, and Garit Benson, Constables; Willet Casey, Paul Huff, and John Huyck, Pound Keepers; Abraham Maybee, and Peter Rutland, Fence Viewers.”
“The height of fence to be 4 feet 8 inches. Water fence voted to be no fence. Hogs running at large to have yokes on 18 by 24 inches. No pigs to run until three months old. No stallion to run. Any person putting fire to any bush or stubble, that does not his endeavour to hinder it from doing damage, shall forfeit the sum of forty shillings.”