For convenience of reference, the various patterns described and processes employed will be numbered.
Mix together ox-gall and water in the proportion of one-eighth of the former to seven-eighths of the latter. Mix the vein-colours with this mixture, putting in a little at a time, and gently stirring it about with the brush (but be careful not to make it froth by too rapid stirring) until you arrive at the proper consistence, which must be ascertained by sprinkling a little colour on the solution in the trough. If the colour sinks, and does not spread out, add a little neat-gall; but, should it spread too far and open too much, mix a little more colour with water only, and put it to that which spreads too much.
The brown will require more gall, less water, and a few drops of the very best olive-oil, which will cause it to form itself into rings or shells as it falls on the solution in the trough. This colour will require to be thicker than the vein-colours, and, when thrown or sprinkled, should drive or force the other colours into the form of veins. By increasing the quantity of gall in the last colour, it will bring the veins to almost any degree of fineness; but there is a point beyond which it is not advisable to go. If the brown does not shell enough, but forms in holes, add a few more drops of oil, and well mix it; but if there be too much oil it will spoil the effect of the shell altogether, which cannot be counteracted in any other way than by mixing some more colour without any oil, and adding it thereto.
Having, then, all in readiness, first skim the surface of the solution lightly all over, and immediately (for when you begin it is necessary to move quickly till all the colours are on) sprinkle on the colours, beginning with the red, next yellow, thirdly, black; then with the principal or body-colour go well and equally all over, taking care to throw as much colour on one part of the surface as another; then take up a sheet of paper by the two opposite corners, and let the corner between the finger and thumb of the right hand touch the surface first, while with the left you let the paper gradually descend, till it lies flat upon the liquid. If it is let down too quickly, or the paper gets rumpled, so as to allow the air to get under it, white blotches will appear when it is taken out of the trough; and if the paper be allowed to lie long enough upon the size to draw out the blisters, still the marks will show.
In order to take the paper out, lay a lath or thin stick across the centre of the paper as it lies in the trough; let it be long enough for the ends to rest upon the edges of the trough; then take hold of the paper by the two parallel corners, lay it back over the stick, lift it out of the trough by the stick, in the same manner as it might hang across a line, and place it on a rack to dry.
This pattern is produced with precisely the same colours as No. 1, by using the iron rod previously described. It is held in the left hand, and the brush knocked against it, which causes the colour to fall in small spots, and reproduces the No. 1 pattern, as it were, in miniature.
This pattern has but two vein-colours—the red and the black. These are mixed with the mixture of gall and water, as described for the veins of No. 1. It has also two other colours. The brown is mixed in a similar manner to the brown for No. 1, but not quite so much gall and oil, to allow for the other colour flowing out upon it; and the last, or light spot, is composed of raw or unburnt Oxford ochre, and is mixed with gall, water, a few drops of olive-oil, and a portion of spirits of turpentine.
This is done in the same manner as No. 2 as regards the mixing and working, the only difference being in the body-colour.
This pattern has three veins and two French colours, or colours that have been mixed as French,—that is, with oil in them,—the last of which, in this instance, is the purple. Being mixed with a little more both of the gall and oil than the other, in order to make it flow out, over, and drive up the other colours, a marbler will be able, if he follows these instructions, to imitate any French pattern, whether there be more or less colours in them.
Is an old pattern, but well worthy of being revived. Though apparently very simple and easy of execution, it is nevertheless very difficult to keep in order, in consequence of the speedy evaporation and the chemical changes which are continually taking place among the ingredients with which it is mixed. It requires great quickness and acute observation on the part of the workman.
There is but one vein-colour, (red,) and the ground or body-colour is blue. The same preparation of gum and flea-seed is used for this as for the French marble. Mix the red for vein, as usual, with gall and water. The other colour must consist of good indigo alone, without which the proper effect cannot be produced. The indigo being ground, as before directed in the instructions for grinding the colours, proceed to mix the indigo with gall, water, and spirits of turpentine,—of which last ingredient it will require a considerable proportion, in order to make it break full of little holes. The acme of this pattern is to make it look like fine network. Sometimes it will happen that at first mixing it will not work, but after standing a day or two it will work well, while at other times it will work immediately. If the holes come too large from an excess of turpentine, (for they will sometimes come too large from not having enough,) add a little more gall and some fresh indigo, putting in a few drops of alum-water; but be very careful of this; for, if there be too much, it will make the colour thick and clotted: in which case have recourse to a little of the solution of potash; but it is best, if possible, to do without either of them.
A very pretty though simple pattern, but requires great cleanliness of working to turn it out well. The colours being ground as before directed, proceed to mix them with gall and water only, as though they were for veins. The last colour is white; this requires a greater proportion of gall than the other colours, and a larger brush, as in the French patterns.
After skimming the size, proceed by beating or knocking on the colours,—viz.: red, green, and black, as in small French, taking especial care to have the rings of the brushes free from any accumulation of colour, or they will cause large spots or blotches, which will spoil the appearance of the work. One difference between this and the small French is that there is no oil used in any of the colours.
Another method is to use a mixture of weak gall and water instead of the white colour, and which must be firmly knocked or beaten on, proportioned by the judgment of the marbler. This method is preferable to the former for edges, and will answer quite as well for paper.
A very neat pattern, may be made of one colour only, which must be mixed with gall and water sufficiently strong to cover the whole surface of the solution on the trough; after which, beat on the white, or gall and water, as before. The same size, or preparation of gum and flea-seed, will do for this as for the previous marbles; it must, however, be kept clean, to make the work look nice and bright.
This pattern consists of two prominent colours besides the veins; one of these is dark and dotted all over with small white spots; the other, which is the last or top colour, is light, and is made by taking a portion of the darker colour and mixing a quantity of white with it, sufficient to bring it to the desired tint. Mix the colours for veins in the ordinary way, viz.: with the usual proportions of gall and water; then mix the brown with a larger proportion of gall, and sprinkle it on as full as to drive the other colours into veins; then take the white, or gall and water, as in Italian, and beat it finely and equally all over, but not so much as for the Italian pattern. Lastly, take the light or top colour, which will require to be stronger in gall than any of the others, and must be sprinkled lightly and evenly over the whole; lay on the paper as quickly as possible.
This pattern is known by the name of West End, and is in every respect similar to the Spanish in the working, only it is not shaded.
An excellent pattern may be made similar to No. 9 in all the details of mixing, working, and putting on the colours, the only difference being in the colours, which may be made of two shades of green or olive, and the veins red, yellow, and blue.
The pattern called French Curl, after the description of the French marble (see No. 1) will not require much explanation, the only difference in the working being, that there must not be any of the preparation of the flea-seed with the gum; but it must be done on the solution of the gum alone, without any admixture. It will also require a frame with as many pegs as you may require curls on the paper; these pegs must be about three inches long, and about the thickness of a stout goose-quill, tapering toward a point. Throw on the colours the same as for No. 1 large French; take the frame of pegs, and, holding it with both hands, put the pegs down to the bottom of the trough, give it a slight rotary motion, then lift it out quickly, so that no drops fall from the pegs into the trough, and lay on the paper as usual, taking care to lay it down straight and even, or the whole pattern will be askew.
A pattern of curl may be made of one colour only, mixed with the same ingredients as the ordinary French; it is the easiest of the two to make.
A curl pattern may be made of the same colours used for nonpareil, only the colours and gum are both used rather thicker than for the French curl, and the colours must have no oil in them.
This marble is distinguished from all others by having a series of light and dark shades traversing the whole extent of the sheet of paper in a diagonal direction. And, as it is the design of this work to simplify as much as possible, the marbler will bear in mind that all the plain Spanish patterns may be worked and managed without the aid of any other agents than ox-gall and water, of course presuming that the colours are ground and prepared as before directed.
One of the most simple and easy patterns is called Olive Spanish, with red and blue veins. The veins are mixed with gall and water, as in the previous kinds of marbling, till they are brought to the proper consistence; and, as it is not possible to state any given measure for proportioning the gall and water exactly, some gall being stronger than other, that must be determined by observing the effect produced in the colours as they are tried on the solution. But each successive colour requires more gall than the one which preceded it, and the principal or body-colour requires to be both thicker in itself and stronger in gall than any of the others. This rule is almost without an exception.
Having, therefore, mixed and prepared the colours,—having the preparation of gum and flea-seed in the trough,—proceed to throw on, first the red, then the blue, and lastly, with a large brush full of colour, the olive; beginning at the left-hand corner of the trough, farthest from you, and working down and up closely all over, taking care not to go twice over the same place, or you will produce rings by the falling of one spot upon another, which is considered objectionable. It cannot, however, be entirely avoided. Now take up the paper by the two opposite corners, and, holding it as nearly upright as possible, yet with a degree of ease and looseness only to be attained by practice, let the corner in the right hand gently touch the colour on the trough, while, at the same time, you shake or move it to and fro by a regular motion, at the same time, with the left hand, letting the sheet regularly and gradually descend till it lies flat upon the surface of the solution. Practice will be required before the stripes or shades will be produced with certainty and regularity. We will next take a pattern with three veins.
This is performed in a similar manner to the one just described. First, throw on red, next yellow, thirdly Blue, and lastly the slate, or body-colour, which is composed of indigo, Chinese blue, and a portion of white. We now advance a step further and take up a pattern with four veins.
This is a well-known pattern. Perhaps as much or more of it has been made than of any other, and it always will be a standing pattern. Proceed in the same manner as before, throwing on first, the red; then yellow; thirdly, blue; fourthly, black; and lastly, the brown, which should be composed of good burnt ochre, darkened with a little black.
This pattern has four colours for veins and two body-colours, the last or top colour being a dilution of the other with white. The veins are thrown on in the following order:—first, red; then black; next yellow, (some work the yellow before the black;) fourthly, green; then the brown, which must not be quite so powerful or put on quite so heavy as for brown Spanish, and on this sprinkle the light or top colour, which requires to be stronger in gall than the others.
The pattern so designated has something of the appearance of a Spanish being worked over an Italian. It requires seven colours and brushes to execute this pattern, although it may be made of less. Commence, as usual, with red first; then black; thirdly, yellow; fourthly, blue; fifthly, green. These being all thrown or sprinkled on, next throw on the white, by using the iron rod, as for West End or Italian, and beat or knock it on very firmly all over these colours, but not so much as you would do for Italian; and lastly, the principal or body-colour,—say dark olive-green. Shade it by shaking or waving the paper in the same way as for other Spanish.
Another compound or fancy Spanish pattern is made by introducing a small French pattern instead of veins. In doing this, be careful not to have so much gall or oil in the colours as though you were going to make French only, and the top or body-colour will require more gall than any of the plain patterns in order to make it work over the French colour.
Beautiful effects may be produced by folding the paper in squares or bending the sheets in various parts before shading, some of which cause the shades to assume an undulating appearance, as though it had been watered like silk.
To do which you must have a trough twice the length of the sheet of paper; as, in order to produce the elongated form of spots, you will have to drag or push it from one end of the trough to the other in the course of laying down the sheet of paper. The colours and preparation are the same for this as for the other Spanish, only the colours are used considerably thinner, as they would get so thick upon the paper, from one sheet being drawn over and taking up a surface of colour usually allowed for two, that it would peel and crumble off and not burnish.
We now come to this well-known and very popular pattern, which has had a most extraordinary run, and which some people hardly seem tired of, although it has become so common of late as to be used on almost every kind of work.
For this description of marbling use the solution of gum alone in the trough. Mix the colours with gall and water, taking particular care to avoid all oil and grease of every description; but the colours will require to be thicker, and more colour thrown on, than for Spanish, with the exception of the last, which will not require to be so heavily thrown on as the last Spanish colour. Let all the colours be thrown on in about equal proportions. In commencing, proceed as usual:—first, skim the surface of the solution, and immediately follow with the red so as to well cover the whole surface of the solution; then black; next, orange or yellow; fourthly, blue; and, lastly, the top colour, of whatever shade it may be required. Now take the peg-rake, which must be as long as the trough from right to left, and which consists of a piece of wood having pegs inserted about an inch and a half apart and about three inches long, tapering towards the point, and having the appearance of the head of a rake. Pass this once up and down through the colour from front to back, taking especial care that when you draw it back the teeth come exactly between where they went up. Having raked the colour into the proper form, take the comb, which must reach the whole width of the trough from front to back, and draw it steadily through the colour, and the pattern is ready for the laying on of the paper, which must be done with a steady hand, or there will be shades in it.
A very good pattern is made by following the directions for No. 21 until the colours are properly raked, then beat a little white evenly over it, and it is ready for the paper.
Another pattern is made by precisely the same process as No. 21, till the colours have been raked with the peg; then take the comb, which should be a much larger one, and draw it through the colour from left to right, then immediately reverse it and draw it back again from right to left, and the desired effect will be produced.
The antique marble is executed thus: after the three first colours have been thrown on, namely, red, black, and yellow, rake it once up and down with the peg-rake, after which proceed to throw on the green, follow with the pink spot, and lastly, beat or knock on small white spots. Some antique patterns are made with a blue or other coloured spot, in lieu of the pink here described, but the process is the same.
This is done with colours prepared the same as for ordinary nonpareil; throw on four colours, viz.: red, black, yellow, and blue; then rake the same as for nonpareil, after which throw on a light colour for a spot; lay on the paper the same as for Spanish. Sometimes it is made without shading, and passes for another pattern.
In this pattern the colours are drawn into an undulating form, the points of each row meeting each other. The colours are prepared the same as for nonpareil. The red, yellow, blue, and green are thrown on, over which is beaten or knocked a small white, but not too abundantly; there is now required a kind of double rake or frame, with teeth of stout wire about three or four inches apart, and let the teeth of the hinder one be so adjusted as to be exactly in the centre of the spaces left open by the first one; the second or hindmost row of teeth should be an inch and a half behind the former, the two forming but one instrument. Draw this through the colour similar to a comb, from left to right, but with an undulating or see-saw motion, just sufficient to make the top of the hindermost wave catch or touch the bottom of the foremost one, by which means it will produce a uniform appearance all over the sheet, something in the appearance of irregular squares.
There are some other patterns of a similar kind made without a small white spot, and the same design is sometimes worked upon a French marble, but these require no additional explanation. We now come to
The pattern so called is by no means easy to execute, as it requires a considerable amount of judgment to maintain any thing like uniformity. Some British patterns are made with and some without veins. They require a trough double the length of the paper, as it is dragged or pushed from one end of the trough to the other in the same manner as the drag Spanish, (No. 20;) and the size or preparation must be the same as for that kind of work. A good pattern may be made of one colour,—viz.: black. The colour for this description of marbling will be all the better for being mixed and well stirred about a few days before using, so as to become mellow for working. Two jars or pots, and a large common plate, will be required. Mix the colour in one of the jars, as if for ordinary Spanish, but not with quite so much gall; then pour a little of it into the other jar, and add to it a considerable portion of gall and water, so as to make it very thin and strong; now pour a small quantity of the strong colour (about a teaspoonful) on the plate, and, taking the brush out of the thicker colour and pressing it hard on the plate, take up with it a portion of the strong colour, and proceed to sprinkle it on quickly all over the trough. The dark and light spots will fall together, intermingling with each other and producing that variegated effect which is characteristic of the pattern. Lay on the paper the same as for drag Spanish. Brown, green, and other colours, are done in the same manner; but the colours require to be mellow and the paper soft-sized, or they are apt to run off.
The pattern now under consideration is one of the oldest and at the same time most difficult patterns, and is performed by a very different process to any of the preceding. Upon examining this pattern, it will be perceived that the colours are not scattered here and there in an indiscriminate manner, but follow each other, in a kind of regular succession, in a diagonal direction across the sheet, red being the preponderating colour. In order to make this well, the colours must be particularly well ground, and of the first quality. They ought to be mixed a few days before using. It will be useless to expect a satisfactory result with either inferior or badly-prepared materials.
In order to accomplish this pattern, there will be required a number of little tins or pots, an inch and a half wide and about the same, or two inches, in depth. It will also require two frames the size of the paper, with wooden pegs in them, slightly tapering, about a quarter of an inch in thickness, and fixed about three inches apart, at regular distances, over the whole extent of the space required. The colours will be all the better for this class of work by the addition of a little spirits of wine. With this exception, the colours will not require any different treatment from the nonpareil.
Mix each of the colours in a large jug, having a spout, so that you may be able to pour them out into the small tins before mentioned. The colours required will be red, yellow, green, blue, and white. The two frames of pegs must be made exactly alike. One ought to be an exact duplicate of the other.
Having mixed the colours, and tried them by dropping a little of each on the solution in the trough, proceed to fill as many of the little pots with colour as there are pegs on the frame, and arrange them about three inches apart, so that the pegs in the frames may drop into the centre of each pot, and, when lifted out, (which will require to be done with great caution,) will convey one large drop of colour on each peg, with which the surface of the size is to be gently and evenly touched, taking care not to put them in too deep, but at the same time being quite sure they all do touch the size. The tins or pots of colour must be arranged as in the following diagram, about three inches apart:—
| G | Y | G | Y | G | Y | G |
| Y | B | Y | B | Y | B | Y |
| G | Y | G | Y | G | Y | G |
| Y | B | Y | B | Y | B | Y |
| G | Y | G | Y | G | Y | G |
G standing for green, Y for yellow, and B for blue. Then fill the same number of tins or pots with white, which must be composed of pipe-clay ground and prepared as the other colours, and arrange them in precisely the same manner, using the second or duplicate frame of pegs to these.
Having arranged all these, commence operations by first skimming the size, (which must consist of gum-tragacanth alone,) and then well cover the whole surface with red, which must be thrown on plentifully with a brush. Then carefully lift the first frame standing in the pots of the three colours, giving it a slight rotary motion, so as to stir the colours, which soon settle, being careful not to upset them. Let one drop from each peg touch the surface of the red upon the size, then quickly take the one with the white and drop that just in the centre of the spots already placed on the trough; next take a rounded piece of tapering wood, (a brush handle is as good a thing as any,) and pass it up and down through the colours as they are now disposed in the trough, from front to back, at regular distances, till the whole extent of the trough has been gone over; then pass the comb through it from left to right, and lay on the paper.
As soon as you have hung it up, pour over it, from a jug with a spout, about a pint of clear water, to wash off the loose colour and gum and make it look clean and bright, after which, when dry, it will require sizing before it can be burnished.
When curls are required, it will be necessary to have a third frame, with as many pegs as you may require curls upon the sheet of paper.
Is done in a different manner to any of the processes hitherto described. The colours used for this kind of work must be of first-rate quality, and must be ground with spirits of wine or extra strong gin, and mixed up with the same and a little gall, just sufficient to make them float and spread to the extent required. Instead of brushes, have a tapering piece of wood, about the thickness of a little finger, in each pot of colour, (small pots will do, capable of holding about a tea-cup full.) The colours required are red, orange, blue, and green. The red must be the best scarlet lake; the orange, orange lead; the blue, ultramarine and indigo; and the green, indigo and Dutch pink. These must be ground and mixed, as before directed, to the consistence of cream. The lake should be ground one day and the other colours a few days before using, and kept moist. The gum will require to be used thicker for this work than for any other. Having every thing in readiness, take a pot of colour in the left hand, and with the right proceed to lay on the colour with a piece of wood or with a quill, in sloping stripes, like those made by a school-boy in learning to write. Commence with the red and make two strokes almost together, leaving a small open space, and then making two more, and so on, until the required extent has been gone over. Next take the orange, and make one stripe between the two stripes of red; then proceed to fill up the wider space with a stripe of green and a stripe of blue. Perhaps the following may more clearly illustrate the order in which the colours should be arranged on the trough:—
G B R O R G B R O R G B R O R G B
As in the former instance, the initial letters signify the colours. Draw the comb through and the pattern is complete.
EDGES.
The patterns for edges are produced in the same manner as those for paper; and having already devoted so much space to this beautiful art, hitherto confined to a few, it would be useless to repeat the processes. Yet there are some things in regard to edges which every good marbler should understand. When plates are interspersed in any book along with the letter-press, it will require particular care in marbling, or the colour and size will run in and spoil the appearance of the plates. To obviate this, keep the book tightly compressed, and where the plates are at the beginning of the book only, lay it down, when marbled, the beginning side-upwards. For edges you may do with a smaller trough, also a smaller quantity of colour than for paper. The solution to work upon had better be gum-tragacanth alone. Colours for edges will look all the brighter by the addition of alcohol, spirits of wine, or whiskey; but they will evaporate more quickly. Having every thing in readiness, take the book, or, if more than one, as many as you can conveniently manage to hold tightly, with the backs in the right hand and the fore-edge in the left, and let them touch the colour, the back first, allowing them gradually to descend till the whole end is covered; but be very careful that none of the size or colour comes over the fore-edge, which it will do if dipped too deep, and leave a nasty unsightly mark, and greatly disfigure the book. In doing the fore-edge, the beginner had better place the volume between a pair of cutting-boards, and, having thrown out the round, turn back the boards, and proceed as with the end; when done, wipe off the superfluous size from the boards with a sponge, put the boards back in their place, and let the volume dry.
GLAZING OR BURNISHING.
The sheets of paper are burnished by a machine constructed for the purpose. A smoothly-faced flint is fixed in a block of wood, in which is inserted one end of a pole about five feet in length, the other end being attached to and working in a cavity in a spring-board fixed overhead, allowing it to work backwards and forwards upon a plank hollowed out for the purpose. The paper is moved over the plank, and the friction of the flint in passing to and fro over the surface of the paper produces a high polish. Sometimes the paper is calendered by means of friction cylinders—a superior method.
COMBS.
These are made in various ways, some to be worked on the top of the trough and called top-combs, others to be worked by putting the points down to the bottom of the trough and called bottom-combs. The best thing for making them is of brass pin-wire. The comb for small nonpareil ought to have from twelve to fourteen teeth to the inch, for the second size eight, and for large, four.
SIZING THE PAPER.
It is sometimes necessary to size the paper after marbling. The way of making the size is as follows:—Take of the best white soap two pounds, put it in a large copper with about twenty gallons of water; when it is quite dissolved, add thereto about four pounds of the best glue, keeping the whole constantly stirred, to prevent the soap and glue from burning; when both are quite dissolved, strain it into a tub, and when cool, it is ready for use. Should it be found too thick, add more hot water. The best way of sizing is to fill a trough with the liquor and to lay the marbled surface of the paper down upon it, then hang it on the sticks to dry.
PATENT MARBLED CLOTH.
This is an article recently introduced, and in some quarters meets with considerable favour. There are as yet no manufactories of it in this country. It, however, possesses no advantages over good marbled paper, and for outsides will not compare with the papier D'Anonay for durability.
ADDENDA.
In taking leave of the subject of marbling, there is but little more to add. For, when the learner is master of all this book teaches, he will have attained such proficiency in the art as to require nothing further in the way of instruction. Should some new pattern come up, let him apply the principles that govern in mixing and distributing the colours, and, with the aid of his own experience, his chance of accomplishing it will be as good as any one else's. As a step to the attainment of mastery in the art, let the workman divest himself of the various nostrums he has been put in possession of by interested parties, and give himself up with assiduity to the directions here laid down. What is here given is the result of twenty-five years' actual experience of C. W. Woolnough, of London, whose marbles rank among the most beautiful productions of the present day. Therefore let the workman adhere to the instructions, and ultimate success will crown his efforts. Should there be any difficulty in obtaining any of the articles described, they may be procured from Mr. Charles Williams, No. 213 Arch St., Philadelphia. The specimens of marbled paper accompanying these pages, illustrate the prominent classes or patterns of marbling. They were executed by him, and show his mastery of the art.
BURNISHING.
The edges are burnished by placing the volume open, with the fore-edge between boards, similar to backing-boards, in the laying-press, and screwing it tightly therein; then with the burnisher rubbing the edge firmly and smartly over till it presents a uniformly bright surface, and free from any dents or inequalities. When the fore-edge is finished, the volume must be taken out of the press, and the head and tail burnished in a similar manner, the ends of the boards resting in the groove by the joints, the covered boards of the volume being open. Common calf, sheep, and half-binding, may be burnished with the boards closed, six or eight together, but it will be necessary to delay pasting the sides on the latter till after the operation, to avoid the liability of tearing.
GILT EDGES.
This description of edge is the best preservative against external injury and damp. Previous to laying on the gold, the workman must have in readiness the articles necessary to form the groundwork and cause the gold to adhere to the edge. The first is a mixture of red bole or chalk and black lead, well-ground and reduced by water to a fluid consistence, after having added to it a few drops of muriatic acid or vitriol. The size used by some is made from the white of an egg in five times the quantity of water well beaten together; but that most generally used is made from parchment or vellum shavings boiled in water to extract the gluten. It is then passed through a piece of fine muslin and set aside to cool. When cold it is very easy to judge of its strength. Some use ice in summer-time to chill it, as a test of its strength. If too strong or thick, add water, then warm it to melt the size and allow the water to become incorporated with it. To become a good gilder requires considerable judgment, as every variety of paper requires a different treatment. No rule can be laid down that will answer in every case; but if the workman will but pay attention to the directions here given, exercise patience, and above all reflect upon the effects of his operations, ultimate success will be certain. English books are made from linen rags, and the paper is sized. They gild more easily and the edge looks better than American books. They do not require as strong a size for gilding as books printed on paper made from cotton. Books printed in this country are generally made from cotton rags. Quantities of alum and lime are employed in bleaching the pulp, to the sore annoyance of many a gilder, who has found that a damp day would invariably put both his skill and patience to the test. The best qualities of American paper are sized; the generality, however, is not. To determine whether the paper is sized or not, apply the tip of the tongue to it; if it adhere to the tongue, it is not sized, and will consequently require a stronger size for gilding than if it were sized paper. The liability of parchment size to decompose or turn to water in hot weather can be entirely counteracted by adding a very small portion of oxalic acid. Having every thing in readiness, put the book in the laying-press, between the gilding-boards, placed even with the fore-edge of the book and with the cheeks of the press; screw up as tightly as possible with the press-pin.
Then commences the most difficult operation, and one upon which the beauty of the edge almost entirely depends—namely, that of scraping. This is done with a steel scraper. A piece of saw-blade answers the purpose very well. After being ground square on the edge and rubbed perfectly smooth upon the oil-stone, it is kept in order by a smooth steel. The edge must be scraped perfectly smooth, so as not to show the marks of the knife in cutting, or of the scraper. After this is done, it must be coloured lightly over with the bole or chalk, rubbed immediately dry with fine clean paper shavings. This process will have to be repeated three times; it is then well burnished with the agate, and, with a broad, flat camel's-hair pencil, or piece of soft sponge, a coat of size laid evenly on the surface.
The gold is next cut on the gold-cushion to the size required. A slip of paper larger than the edge is drawn over the head of the workman, and by a light pressure upon the cushion the gold will attach itself to the paper; it is then turned, with the gold upwards, (care being taken to have sufficient upon the paper to cover the entire edge,) and laid upon the cheek of the press; then pass a flat camel's-hair pencil, dipped in clean water, evenly over the edge, and immediately lay on the gold by taking up the paper, turning the gold towards the edge, and presenting it with sufficient celerity not to allow the gold to be drawn from the paper in portions by the size. To do this well will require some practice and a steady hand. Should there be any breaks in the gold, other portions must be applied, and, if dry, moisten with water applied by a fine pencil, and lay on the gold.
After the edge is entirely dry, which generally happens in from one to two hours, it must be burnished. For this purpose a flat blood-stone burnisher is the best, to be afterwards followed by a flat agate. Let there be no marks of the burnisher, but spare no pains in burnishing to have the edge perfectly uniform and clear. The head and tail of the volume must be gilt with the same precaution, the back towards the workman. The foregoing direction have been derived from the practical experience of Mr. James Pawson, one of the best gilders in this country.
Should the work be of such a nature that it is desirable to give it the character of the period in which the book was written, or an additional degree of beauty and elegance, this part of book-ornament may be pursued farther in the manner we shall now describe.
ANTIQUE STYLE.
After the edge is finished as above directed, and before taking out of the press, ornaments, such as flowers, or designs in compartments, must be stamped upon it in the following manner. A coat of size is passed quickly over with great precaution and lightness, and only once in a place, to avoid detaching any of the gold. When dry, rub the edge as lightly as possible with palm-oil, and cover with gold of a different colour to the first; then with the tools used in gilding leather, warmed in the fire, proceed to form the various designs by firmly impressing them on the edge. The gold that has not been touched by the tools is then rubbed off with a clean cotton, and there remains only the designs the tools have imprinted, which produce a fine effect. This mode is, however, now seldom used, though almost all the books in the original binding of the sixteenth century are so executed.
GILDING UPON MARBLED EDGES.
This edge, which Dr. Dibdin, in his "Bibliographer's Decameron," calls "the very luxury, the ne plus ultra of the Bibliopegistic Art," is one requiring great care and expertness in the execution. The edges must be scraped before marbling. After the edges have been tastefully marbled, and not overcharged with colour, the book must be put in the press, and well burnished as before directed. The size must then be laid lightly on, to prevent unsettling the colour of the marble, by which the edge would be destroyed, and the gold immediately applied and finished off as in other edges. When dry the marble is perceived through the gold, and presents an appearance of great beauty.
GILDING ON LANDSCAPES, ETC.
When the edge is well scraped and burnished, the leaves on the fore-edge must be evenly bent in an oblique manner, and in this position confined by boards tied tightly on each side, until a subject is painted thereon in water-colours, according to the fancy of the operator. When perfectly dry, untie the boards and let the leaves take their proper position. Then place the volume in the press, lay on the size and gold, and, when dry, burnish. The design will not be apparent when the volume is closed, from the gold covering it; but when the leaves are drawn out it will be perceived easily, the gilding disappearing, and a very unique effect will be produced. The time and labour required makes this operation expensive, and it is consequently very seldom performed. It is, however, considered necessary to describe the proceeding, as the taste or wishes of some may render it necessary that the workman should know how to operate.
After the volume is gilt, the edges must be enveloped in clean paper, by glueing the extremities one upon the other, to preserve the edges from injury in the subsequent operations. This is taken off when the volume is completed.
BLACK EDGES.
Books of devotion are generally bound in black leather, and, instead of being gilt on the edge, blacked to correspond with the covers. It will therefore be necessary in this place to describe the process.
Put the book in the press as for gilding, and sponge it with black ink; then take ivory-black, lamp-black, or antimony, mixed well with a little paste, and rub it on the edge with the finger or ball of the hand till it is perfectly black and a good polish produced, when it must be cleared with a brush, burnished, and cased with paper.
Coloured edges, to look well, require to be scraped in the same manner as for gilt. To lay the colour on evenly, and produce a high burnish, requires more labour than gilding. They are therefore quite as expensive. After the colouring or gilding of the edges, the next process is to attach the
REGISTER,
To do which the back, near the head, is lightly touched with glue, and one end of a piece of ribbon proportioned to the volume is affixed. The leaves are opened, and the other portion of the ribbon placed between the leaves; the portion intended to hang out at the bottom being turned back until the book is completed, to prevent its being soiled.
HEADBANDS.
The headband is an ornament in thread or silk, of different colours, placed at the head and tail of a book on the edge of the back, and serves to support that part of the cover projecting above in consequence of the squares of the boards, giving to the volume a more finished appearance. Thus it will be seen that the headband must equal the square allowed for the boards. For common work, the headband is made of muslin pasted upon twine; but for extra work, and volumes requiring greater durability, it is made of thin board and parchment pasted together and cut into strips of the breadth required. These flat headbands produce a much better effect than the round ones.
There are two kinds of headbands,—viz.: single and double. For ordinary work, cloth pasted round the band, or common thread, is used; for extra, silk and sometimes gold and silver thread. If the volume is small, it is placed, with the boards closed and drawn down even with the edge, between the knees; or, if larger, placed at the end of the laying-press, with the fore-edge projecting towards the body of the workwoman. (The headbands are usually worked by females.)
SINGLE HEADBAND.
Take two lengths of thread or silk, of different colours, threading one in a long needle, and tying the ends of the two together. Supposing red and white to have been taken, the white attached to the needle, it is placed in the volume five or six leaves from the left side, and forced out on the back immediately under the chain-stitch of the sewing, and the thread drawn until it is stopped by the knot, which will be hid in the sheet; the needle is then passed a second time in or near the same place, and, after placing the prepared band under the curl thus made, the thread is drawn tight, so as to hold it firm. Before placing the band, it must be bent with the fingers to the curve of the back of the book. The red thread is now taken with the right hand, and, bringing it from the left to the right, crossed above the white thread, passed under the band, and brought round to the front again and fastened by passing over it, in the same way, the white thread, taking care that the bead formed by these crossings touches the edge of the volume. In repeating thus alternately the operation, crossing the two threads and passing each time under the band, which is thereby covered, it must be occasionally fastened to the book by inserting the needle, as before directed, once in as many places as the thickness of the book may require, and giving it a double tack on the right side on completing the band, fastening it on the back with a knot. These fastenings give firmness to the headband and the exact curve of the back. The two projecting sides of the band must be cut off near the silk, giving the band a slight inclination upwards, to prevent the work slipping off before covering.
DOUBLE HEADBAND.
This headband is made of silk of various colours, and differs from the single, both in being composed of two bands, a large and small one, and in the manner of passing the silk. It is commenced in the same way as the single; but, when the bands are fastened, the smaller above the larger, the red silk is taken with the right hand and passed above the white, under the bottom or larger band, brought out under the upper or small one, carried over it, brought out again over the large band, and the bead formed, as above directed, near to the edge of the book. The white silk is then passed in the same way, and so on alternately till the whole is completed.
GOLD AND SILVER HEADBAND
Both single and double made as above, the only difference being in the use of gold or silver thread. Great care must be here observed in tightening the thread at the bead.
RIBBON HEADBAND.
This style varies but little from the other, the same-coloured thread being only passed several times round, instead of alternately with the other, and making the bead at each turn, taking care that the under thread is not observed, and then passing the other colour, in a similar manner, as many or more times than the former. This will produce a band—from which it is named—having the appearance of narrow ribbons of various colours. Three or more colours may be used in a pattern.
COVERING.
The skins prepared for binding are dressed in a peculiar manner. They are soft and of equal thickness throughout. The cutting out of covers is an important operation, as by attention much economy may be effected. For this purpose patterns in pasteboard of all the sizes of books should be made, and such as are required placed on the skin, turning them every way, so as to obtain the greatest number of pieces possible, allowing about an inch round for paring and turning in. Should the books be of the same size, a volume taken by the fore-edge and the boards laying open on the leather will enable the workman to judge to a nicety the most advantageous way to cut. The narrow pieces, &c. left on the sides will do for the backs and corners of half-bound work. The leather must be cut out dry, except russia, which must be well soaked with warm water, care being taken to avoid creasing. It will also require to be well rubbed out on a marble slab with the folder. If the russia is grained properly in the skin, it will not require wetting or rubbing.
Each cover must be pared round the edges with a long knife, called the paring-knife; and great care and skill are requisite in order to do it well. The French binders use a knife for this purpose somewhat similar to a chisel, and it must be confessed that their bindings surpass in this respect those of any other country. It is impossible to determine the precise point at which the paring commences. The declension is so gradual that it cannot be perceived. As an illustration of this fact, there is a specimen of Bauzonnet's in the possession of a connoisseur of this city, covered with very thick Levant morocco, with a joint of the same material, and the interior of the board lined with morocco, thus making three different pieces. And the paring is so exquisitely done that, were it not for the colours, it would be impossible to tell where they joined. The whole interior of the board is as level as a piece of polished marble.
Whatever may be the substance or material with which a book is covered, the manipulations are the same. It is well pasted over with the brush and placed on the volume in the same way, care being taken to preserve from stains those that are costly and delicate, particularly morocco and calf. The cover should be placed on a board, and the side of the skin which is to be applied to the volume pasted well and evenly upon the surface, leaving no more than what is necessary to make it adhere. The cover being then laid on a table, or clean milled board, the volume is taken in the hands, the squares at head and tail equally adjusted, and placed upon the nearest side of it, in such a position that the back of the volume, which is from the workman, will be in the middle. The far part is then brought over to the other side, and care taken not to disarrange the squares. The cover, which now projects an inch all round the volume, is drawn tightly on the back with the open hands, by turning the projecting portion of the cover outward and resting the book on the fore-edge, at the same time working the leather in such a manner that it will adhere closely to the sides of the raised bands as well as to the back. A square band, with the leather fitting closely and evenly to the back on each side of the band, is a great point to attain, and any thing short of it is a blur upon the binding. After the back has been sufficiently manipulated, lay the cover perfectly smooth upon each side, then open the boards and lay one upon the paring-stone, and pass the paring-knife between the board and the cover diagonally across the corner of the latter, in such a manner that, when the leather is turned over, one edge will merely fold over the other; turn the book and operate in a similar manner on the other corners.
The cover at the head and tail of the book must next be turned in, by taking it by the fore-edge and placing it upright on the table with the boards extended, and with the hands, one on each side, slightly forcing back the boards close to the headband, and folding the cover over and into the back with the thumbs, drawing it in so that no wrinkle or fold is seen. Having turned in the cover the whole length of the boards, the volume must be turned and operated on at the bottom in a similar manner. The volume is then laid flat upon one side, and the cover turned over the fore-edge of the other, the corners being set by the aid of the thumb-nail and folder as neatly as possible; the same operation is repeated upon the other side. Any derangement of the square of the boards that may have taken place in covering must also be rectified.
The setting of the headband is the next operation, which is very important to the beauty of the binding, by properly forming a sort of cap over the worked headband of the leather projecting across the back a little above a right line from the square of one board to the other. With a small smooth folder, one end a little pointed, the double fold of the leather must be rubbed together to make it adhere, and, if the boards have been cut at the corners, the hand applied thereon, and finally forcing the headband close to the leather, staying it even on the back with the finger, and forming a neat cap of the projecting part on the top of it. The folder is then applied on the edges of the boards, to give them a square appearance and make the leather adhere. One board is then thrown back, the folder placed lengthwise along the joint or groove, holding it firmly by the right hand; the board is then gently forced by the left hand until it projects slightly within or over the joint. Upon this depends the freedom and squareness of the joint,—one of the most charming features of a well-bound book. After this operation has been performed upon both boards, the headbands will again require attention; and, in order to set them firmly, pass a piece of sewing-thread around the book between the back and the boards, and, after it is tied, manipulate the head as before, so as to make it perfectly square and even with the boards and back. The volume is rubbed alongside of the bands, and then set aside until nearly dry, when the thread is taken off and the boards again set in the joint.
If the book has been sewn on bands, or if the artificial bands are large, it is sometimes necessary, to make the leather adhere to the back, that the volume should be tied up, which is done by placing a board, longer than the book, on each side, projecting slightly over the fore-edge, and tying them tightly with a cord from end to end. Then, with a smaller cord, the leather is confined to the sides of the bands, by crossing the string. For example: suppose the book had three bands, one towards the head, one towards the tail, and the other in the middle; the book would be taken in the left hand, the head upwards, the cord by the help of a noose passed round close to the inside of the band nearest to the tail and drawn tight, then carried round again and brought close to the other side. The string, tightened, is thus crossed on the other side of the volume, and the band held between it. The cord is in like manner carried on to the second and third bands, fastened, and the whole set square with the folder. It will be best understood by the following engraving.