Their most remarkable Trees, besides what are common to Europe, are 1. The Cinnamon Tree, so call’d, because the Bark resembles Cinnamon, in such Plenty, that they cover their Houses with them: They keep their Leaves all the Year, and resemble the Italian Lawrel Royal. 2. The Guyac Tree grows in the Cordillera, is as hard and heavy as Iron: The Decoction is good against many Diseases. 3. The Sandal Tree, that is very odoriferous, a Preservative against infectious Distempers, and therefore us’d by the Priests when they visit the Sick. 4. The Maguey, whose Leaves are admirable against Burnings; the Fruit is like Myrtle-Berries, and of an excellent Relish. 5. The Quelu, of whose Fruit they make a very sweet Drink. 7. Iluigan, the Spaniards call it Molde, ’tis of the Shape and Colour of Pepper: It grows on a small Tree, and makes an agreeable Liquor, coveted by those of Quality. 8. The Myrtilla which grows on the Mountains, from Lat. 37. and upwards: Herrera says, its Fruit is a common Good to the Natives, not unlike a Grape, and of this they make a Wine that exceeds all other Liquors. ’Tis of a bright gold Colour, will bear more Water than any other Wine, chears the Heart, and never offends the Stomach, but increases Appetite. The Vinegar made of it exceeds all other sorts. Our Author adds, that their Cypress, Cedar and Oak Trees are extraordinary good.

He comes next to the Islands of Chili. The first are those of Juan Fernandez, already describ’d. The second are the Islands of Chiloe, which lie about Lat. 43, and form an Archipelago of 40 Islands. He says the Nature of the Climate is such, that it rains almost all the Year, so that only Maiz or such other Grain can ripen here, as need little Sun. The chief Diet of the Inhabitants is the Root Papas, which is larger here than any where else. They have excellent Shell-fish, very good Poultry and Hogs, some Beeves and Sheep. The Capital of this Country is the City of Castra, which lies in the chief Island, and is garrison’d by the Spaniards. Here they have great Store of Honey and Wax, and some Gold Mines on the Coast. Their chief Manufacture is Clothing for the Indians, and they have vast Woods of Cedar Trees of a prodigious size, with the Planks of which they drive a great Trade to Chili and Peru. 3. The Islands of Chonos, in Lat. 45. but of little Use, because of the excessive Rains which drown the Soil. 4. The Fine Island, which lies almost in the same Latitude with Val Paraiso and St. Jugo: It has a safe Harbour for Ships, where they may ride in 20 or 30 Fathom Water. The Spaniards say ’tis a very beautiful Island, abounds with Trees, wild Boars, and other Game, and excellent Water; and there’s Plenty of Fish on the Coast. 5. The Island of Mocha, where the Dutch, under Spilberg, found a very generous Reception by the Natives, who furnish’d them with Plenty of Sheep, and other Provisions, in exchange for Clothes, Axes, &c. The North side of it is plain and low, but the South side rocky. 6. The Island of St. Maria, 13 Leagues S.W. from the City of Conception, and 3 from Arauco: It is very fruitful and temperate, lies about Lat. 37, and is well inhabited. 7. The Islands of Pedro de Sarmiento, so call’d, because he discover’d them, when in Pursuit of Sir Francis Drake. They are about 80 in Number, and lie about Lat. 50. so that we suppose them to be those now call’d The Duke of York’s Islands, which lie a little to the Northward of the Straits of Magillan.

Our Author comes next to Guio, the third Quarter of Chili, which lies on the other side of the Cordillera, towards the East. ’Tis divided into several Provinces, and quite differs in Temperature from Chili. The Summer is excessive hot, and the Inhabitants so annoy’d with Bugs and Muskettos, that they lie abroad in their Gardens and Yards. They have almost perpetual Thunders and Lightnings, and are mightily infested with poisonous Insects: These are the bad Qualities of the Country, to compensate which, the Soil, in many places, if possible, exceeds that of Chili in Fruitfulness; the Crops are richer, the Fruits larger, and of a better Taste, because of the greater Heats. They have Store of Corn, Wine, Flesh, and all the Fruits, Roots, and Herbs of Europe, with large Plantations of Olives and Almonds. The Cold is not so sharp in Winter as that of Chili, and the Air much clearer, so that the Season is then very temperate: they have great Quantities of large excellent Trouts, and other River Fish. Their peculiar Fruits are, 1. Algaroba, of which they make a Bread so sweet, that Strangers can’t eat it. They supply Tucuman and Paraguay with Figs, Pomgranates, Apples, dry’d Peaches and Grapes, and excellent Wine and Oil. Ovalle says, That in his time there were rich Mines of Gold and Silver discover’d here, which were reckon’d to be better than those of Potosi, and that in short it had all Necessaries for Life in as great abundance as any other Country, and in general is very healthful. The Provinces of Tucuman and Paraguay, which bound this Country we have already describ’d.

Jan. 10. I now go on with my Journal, being on our Departure from California, and returning to Great Britain. I shall not trouble the Reader with every Day’s particular Transactions in this long and tedious Passage, but only take notice of such Occurrences as are worth remark, and to satisfy the Curious, shall subjoin a particular Table of each Day’s Run, with the Latitude, Longtitude and Variation betwixt Cape St. Lucas on California, and Guam, one of the Ladrones Islands. We resolved to keep an exact Account of the Distance and Variation not being certainly known to us from any former Voyagers.

Jan. 11. We weigh’d from Port Segura last Night, but were becalm’d under the Shore till the 12th in the Afternoon, when there sprung up a Breeze, which soon run us out of sight of the Land. We took our Departure from Cape St. Lucas, which bore N. by E. at 12 a Clock, distant about 15 Leagues. We were forc’d to go away with little or no Refreshment, having but 3 or 4 Fowls, and a very slender Stock of Liquor, which we got out of the Batchelor. Several of our Men were in a weak Condition, besides my self, Mr. Vanbrugh, and the rest that were wounded. We were forc’d to allow but 1 Pound and half of Flower, and 1 small Piece of Meat to 5 in a Mess, with 3 Pints of Water a Man for 24 Hours, for Drink and Dressing their Victuals. We struck down 10 of our Guns into the Hold, to ease the Ship; for being out of the way of Enemies, they are altogether useless betwixt this and the East Indies. On the 16th the Batchelor made a Signal to give us some Bread, they having found a good Quantity of Bread and Sweet-meats aboard her, but little of Flesh-kind: We had 1000 Weight of Bread for our Share, the Dutchess as much, and the Marquiss 500 Weight; in lieu of which we sent back to the Prize 2 Casks of Flower, one of English Beef, and one of Pork, they having but 45 Days Provision aboard in Flesh. This Morning Thomas Conner, a Boy, fell overboard, but the Launch being a-stern, we cut her Moarings, and took him up just as he was tired with Swimming, and ready to sink.

On the 26th in the Morning the Water was very much discolour’d, at which being surprized, we immediately sounded, but found no Ground. We spoke with the Dutchess, and agreed to go away W.S.W. till we got into the Lat. of 13°, because our Spanish Pilot told us it was dangerous going in 14, by reason of Islands and Shoals, where a Spanish Vessel was lost some time ago, ever since which the Manila Ship, in her Return from Acapulco, runs in Lat. 13. and keeps that Parallel till they make the Island of Guam.

On the 28th the Steward missing some Pieces of Pork, we immediately search’d, and found the Thieves, one of ’em had been guilty before, and forgiven, on promise of Amendment, but was punish’d now, lest Forbearance should encourage the rest to follow this bad Practice; Provisions being so short, and our Run so long, may prove of ill consequence. I order’d ’em to the Main Jeers, and every Man of the Watch to give ’em a Blow with a Cat of Nine-tails, and their Messmates being privy to the Theft, were put in Irons.

Feb. 1. We buried one Boyce, betwixt 40 and 50 Years of Age, whom we brought from Guiaquil, where and in other Parts of New Spain he had been a Prisoner above 7 Years, since he was taken in the Bay of Campeachy.

On the 5th a Negro we named Deptford died, who being very much addicted to stealing of Provisions, his Room was more acceptable than his Company at this time. On the 6th we spoke with the Dutchess; I was for augmenting the Mens Allowance in Meat, since we had such a favourable Gale, which was like to continue; but Capt. Courtney objected against it, alledging that if we miss’d Guam, we should all be starved; so we deferr’d it a Week longer. We have had very bad luck in fishing hitherto, having took only one Albicore since we came from Cape St. Lucas.

On the 11th I agreed with Capt. Courtney to continue a W. by S. Course till we get clear of the Rocks call’d the Bartholomews, which are laid down in 13° and a half; but the Distance of them being variously computed, makes us the more cautious, and keep a constant good Look-out. On the 13th the Spanish Pilot we took in the Batchelor died; we kept him, thinking he might be of use to us, if he recover’d of his Wounds; but he was shot in the Throat with a Musket-ball, which lodg’d so deep, the Doctors could not come at it. On the 14th we agreed with Capt. Courtney to give half a Pound of Flower or Bread more to a Mess. That same Day, in Commemoration of the ancient Custom in England of chusing Valentines, I drew up a List of the fair Ladies in Bristol, that were any ways related to or concern’d in the Ships, and sent for my Officers into the Cabbin, where every one drew, and drank the Lady’s Health in a Cup of Punch, and to a happy Sight of ’em all; this I did to put ’em in mind of Home. On the 17th I was troubled with a swelling in my Throat, which incommoded me very much, till this Morning I got out a Piece of my Jaw Bone that lodg’d there since I was wounded. Our Ship began to make more Water, so we clapt on a new Bonnet where we took the old one off; but after many fruitless Attempts, were forc’d to keep one Pump continually going, every two Men in the Watch taking their Posts once an Hour; which Labour, with the want of sufficient Food, make our People look miserably.

On the 18th we threw a Negro overboard, who died of a Consumption and Want together. Our Men began to be very much out of order, and what adds to their Weakness is our continual Pumping, nor can we pretend to make any further Addition to their Allowance.

On the 25th Tho. Williams, a Welch Taylor, died; he was shot in the Leg at engaging the 2d Manila Ship, and being of a weak Constitution, fell into a Dysentery, which kill’d him. On the 26th we caught a Couple of fine Dolphins, which were very acceptable to us, having had but very indifferent Luck of Fish in this long Passage.

On March the 3d we buried a Negro call’d Augustine, who died of the Scurvy and Dropsy. We agree to give 6 Negroes the same Allowance as five of our own Men, which will but just keep those that are in health alive.

On the 10th we made Land, being the Island Serpana, which bore N.W. distant about 8 Leagues. The Dutchess made another Island to the Westward, which bore W. by S. distant about 10 Leagues; the latter they took to be the Island Guam, so we clapt upon a Wind, and stood for it.

March 11. This Morning we had sight of both Islands, the Northermost bearing N.N.W. distant about 7 Leagues, and the Body of the Westermost W.S.W. 5 Leagues. The Spaniards say there is a great Shoal between these Islands, but nearest to Serpana. We ran along the Shore, being satisfied it was the Island of Guam, from whence there came several flying Prows to look at the Ships; they run by us very swift, but none would venture aboard. At Noon the Westermost part of the Island bore West, and at the same time we made a small low Island joining to Guam, with a Shoal between it and Guam; the Island appear’d green and very pleasant, off of it there runs a Spit of Sand to the Southward, but keeping it a good Birth from you as you near it, there’s no Danger, being gradual Soundings to the Shoal. After we were clear of it we sprung our Luff, and stood in for the Harbour, which lies mid-way betwixt this and the North part of the Island. There came heavy Flaws of Wind off Shore, sometimes for us, and at other times against us; but we got to an Anchor in the Afternoon in 12 Fathom Water, about half a Mile off Shore, where there was a little Village. The small Island to the Southward bore South of us, distant about 3 Leagues, and another small one to the Northward bore N. N. W. about 2 Leagues. The Necessity of our stopping at these Islands to get a Refreshment of Provisions, was very great, our Sea Store being almost exhausted, and what we had left was very ordinary, especially our Bread and Flower, which was not enough for 14 Days at the shortest Allowance. In order to recruit quietly, we endeavour’d to get some of the Natives aboard that were in the Prows, to keep ’em as Hostages in case of sending any of our Men to the Governour: One of ’em, as we were turning into the Harbour with Spanish Colours, came under our Stern. There were 2 Spaniards in the Boat, who asked what we were, and from whence we came? Being answer’d in Spanish, that we were Friends, and came from New Spain, they willingly came aboard, and ask’d if we had any Letter to the Governour? We had one ready, but before we could get it signed by all the Commanders, there came a Messenger from the Governour, who demanded the same Account of us. We immediately sent him away with 2 of our Linguists, detaining one of the Spaniards till they return’d. The Letter was thus:

WE being Servants to Her Majesty of Great Britain, and stopping at these Islands in our Way to the East Indies, will not molest the Settlement, provided you deal friendly by us. We will pay for whatever Provisions and Refreshments you have to spare, in such manner as best agrees with your Conveniency, either in Money, or any Necessaries you want. But if after this civil Request you deny us, and do not act like a Man of Honour, you may immediately expect such Military Treatment, as we are with ease able to give you. This we thought fit to confirm under our Hands, recommending to you our Friendship and kind Treatment, which we hope you’ll esteem, and assure your self we then shall be with the strictest Honour,

Your Friends and humble Servants,

March 11. In the Morning we and the Dutchess mann’d our Pinnace, and sent her ashore with a Flag of Truce, where they were entertained curteously by the Natives, who promis’d to supply us with such Provisions as they could spare, provided the Governour would give ’em leave. About Noon our Linguist return’d, and brought with him 3 Spanish Gentlemen from the Governour, who in answer to our Letter sent another, expressing all Readiness imaginable to accommodate us with what the Island afforded, and that he had sent those Gentlemen to treat with us. I immediately sent for Capt. Dover, Courtney, and Cooke, &c. being not able to stir out of the Ship, and desir’d they would come and consult with me how to act.

March 13. This Morning we had 4 Bullocks, 1 for each Ship, with some Limes, Oranges, and Cocoa Nuts. Our Misunderstandings at California have been very much augmented since by our Want of Provisions, one Ship’s Company being jealous the other had most and best; but now being arriv’d at a Place of Plenty, we are all indifferently well reconciled, and an Entertainment was provided aboard the Batchelor for the Spanish Gentlemen, where most of our Officers appointed to meet. I being not able to move my self, was hoisted in a Chair out of the Ship, and also out of the Boat into the Batchelor; there we had a good Entertainment, and agreed, that on Thursday next a Representative for each Ship should wait upon the Governour, and make him a handsome Present for his Civility and Readiness to supply us.

March 15. This Morning we had another Entertainment aboard the Marquiss, where I likewise went in the same manner as before.

March 16. This Morning our Pinnace went with several of our Officers to accept of the Governour’s Invitation ashore, who received them with all imaginable Friendship and Respect, having near 200 Men drawn up in Arms at their Landing, and the Officers and Clergy of the Island to conduct them to the Governour’s House, which was a very handsome Seat, considering where we are: They entertain’d them with at least sixty Dishes of several sorts, the best could be got on the Island, and when they took their Leaves, each fired a Volley of Small Arms. They presented the Governour, according as we had agreed, with 2 Negro Boys dress’d in Liveries, 20 Yards of Scarlet Cloth-Serge, and 6 Pieces of Cambrick, which he seem’d wonderfully pleas’d with, and promis’d to assist us in whatever lay in his Power.

March 17. This Day we got our Dividend, being about 60 Hogs, 99 Fowls, 24 Baskets of Indian Corn, and 14 Bags of Rice, 44 Baskets of Yams, and 800 Cocoa Nuts.

March 18. There was an Entertainment aboard us to day, where we had most of our Officers, and 4 Spanish Gentlemen from the Governour. I made ’em as welcome as Time and Place would afford, diverting ’em with Musick, and our Sailors Dancing till Night, when we parted very friendly. We got some more Bullocks on board, being small lean Cattle, but what we gladly accepted of; each Ship had 14 in all.

March 20. This Morning each Ship had 2 Cows and Calves more, being the last we are like to get. We had a Meeting on board the Marquiss, where ’twas agreed to make a handsome Present to the Governour’s Deputy, who had the Fatigue to get our Provisions together, wherein he us’d all possible dispatch. We gave him and the rest of the Gentlemen what they esteem’d double the Value of what we received of them, which they certify’d under their Hands, and that we had been very civil to them. We also gave them the like Certificate, sign’d by all our Officers, to shew to any English that might have occasion to recruit there, and parted very friendly. Having finish’d that Affair, it was agreed, that we should steer from hence a West and by South Course to go clear of some Islands that lie in our way, and then thought it proper to steer directly for the South East part of Mindanao, and from thence the clearest Way to Ternate. It was also agreed, that our Ship being very leaky, I should deliver to Capt. Courtney one Chest of Plate and Money, to be put on board the Dutchess.

March 21. At Break of Day we hoisted our Colours, and fired a Gun for our Consorts to unmoar. In the meantime, with the Consent of the other Officers I put an old Spaniard ashore, call’d Ant. Gomes Figuero, whom we took in the 1st Bark in the South Seas, and design’d to carry him to Great Britain, to condemn all our Prizes took there; but he being now in all appearance not likely to live, we agreed to dismiss him, he giving us a Certificate that he saw us attack and take several Prizes, all Subjects to Philip V. King of Spain, &c. I gave him some Clothes and other odd things to help him in his Sickness, then put him ashore to the Deputy Governour, and the rest of the Spanish Officers, who gave us a Certificate, that they receiv’d such a Person.

I shall here give a Description of the Isle of Guam.

The Island of Guam Describ’d

THis Island is about 40 Leagues round; the Anchoring Place is on the W. Side, and about the Middle there’s a large Cove, with several Houses built after the Spanish Mode, with Accommodations for the Officers and Crew of the Acapulco Ship, the Settlement being made here on purpose for that Ship to recruit at, in her Way to Manila. There are about 300 Spaniards on this and the Neighbouring Islands; most of the Natives are their Converts. They told us they have 8 Fathers, 6 of whom teach School, besides performing their Offices as Clergymen. They have also Schools taught by Mullattoes and Indians, who have learn’d the Language, so that most of the Natives understand Spanish. The Spaniards inform me, that there’s a Range of Islands from hence to Japan. Among which there are several abound with Gold, and they were now building a small Vessel to discover them, in order to get a Trade.

The Island of Guam it self abounds with Oranges, Lemons, Citrons, Musk and Water Melons, which were brought hither by the Spaniards. The Orange Trees thrive very well here. The Island is full of Hills and Dales, and Streams of good Water. They have Plenty of Cattle, but small, poor, and generally white. The Indico Plant grows wild in such Abundance, that were they industrious, and had Coppers to boil it up, they might have great Quantities of that Commodity; but being so remote and out of the Way of Trade, they make no Use of it, nor do they improve any thing but what contributes to their present Subsistance; and having that, they are easie. Money is of so little Use, and so scarce among them, that they could not raise 1000 Dollars in the whole Island to purchase Commodities from us, which they would gladly have done. Here are about 200 Soldiers, who receive their Pay from Manila by a small Ship once per Ann. This Ship brings them Cloaths, Sugar, Rice, and Liquor, for which she carries back most of the Money again. This has made them of late sow Rice in their Valleys, and make other Improvements. They abound with Hogs, which are the best Pork in the World, because they feed altogether on Cocoa-Nutts, and Bread-Fruit, which are plentiful here; and were not the Spaniards slothful, they might have most Necessaries of their own Growth for the Maintenance of Life.

Their Bread Fruit I thought the most remarkable Thing on the Island. I saw some of it which was as large as Oranges, and much resembled them. They tell me, that when ripe they are three Times as large, and grow in many other Places near the Equinox in the East Indies. The Leaves are almost as large as those of Figs, something like them, but of a brown Colour. The Tree is large, and they have such Plenty of this Fruit in the Season, that they fatten their Hogs with them. The Fruit has no Stone, and by the Account they gave, the Inside resembles a dry Potato or Yam, with which they likewise abound.

The Wind blows constantly a S. E. Trade here, except during the Westerly Monsoons, which last from the Middle of June to the Middle of August.

The Governour lives on the N. side of the Island, where there’s a small Village, and a Convent, being the chief Habitation of the Spaniards. They marry with the Natives, and had not above four Spanish Women on the Island. The Indians are tall and strong, of a dark olive Colour, go all naked, except a Clout about their Posteriors, and the Women have little Petticoats. The Men are dextrous at flinging of Stones, which they make of Clay, of an oval Form, burning them, till as hard as Marble, and are so good Marks-men, that the Spaniards say, they seldom miss hitting any Mark, and throw it with such a Force, as to kill a Man at a considerable Distance. I heard of no other Weapons that they used, but a Stick or Lance made of the heaviest Wood in the Island.

The Governour presented us with one of their flying Prows, which I shall describe here because of the Odness of it. The Spaniards told me ’twould run 20 Leagues per Hour, which I think too large; but by what I saw, I verily believe, they may run 20 Miles or more in the Time, for when they viewed our Ships, they passed by us like a Bird flying. These Prows are about 30 Foot long, not above 2 broad, and about 3 deep; they have but one Mast which stands in the Middle, with a Mat Sail, made in the Form of a Ship’s Mizen. The Yard is slung in the Middle, and a Man sits at each End with a Paddle to steer her, so that when they go about, they don’t turn the Boat as we do to bring the Wind on the other side, but only change the Sail, so that the Tack and Sheet of the Sail are used alike, and the Boat’s Head and Stern are the same, only they change them, as Occasion requires, to sail either Way; for they are so narrow that they could not bear any Sail, were it not for Booms, that run out from the Windward Side, fasten’d to a large Log shap’d like a Boat, and near half as long, which becomes contiguous to the Boat. On these Booms a Stage is made above the Water, on a Level with the Side of the Boat, upon which they carry Goods or Passengers. The greatest inconveniency in sailing these Boats is before the Wind, for by the Out-layer, which is built out on one Side, if the Wind presses any thing heavy on the contrary Side, the Boat is over-set, which often happens; having brought one of these Boats to London, it might be worth fitting up to put in the Canal in St. James’s Park for a Curiosity, since we have none like it in this Part of the World.

As soon as the Boat return’d from landing Senior Figuro, we put under Sail, having a fine Breeze of Wind at E.N.E. We had generally fair Weather here in the Day Time, and Showers commonly in the Night, but very sultry. The Wind always off Shoar betwixt the E. and N.E. Our Decks are filled with Cattle and Provender.

According to Promise, I have here inserted my Run from California to Guam.

A Table of each Days Run between Cape St. Lucas in California, and the Island of Guam.

At 3 a Clock in the Afternoon the Island of Guam bore W. by S. distant 10 Leagues.

1710 March 22. At 6 last Night, the Body of the Island Guam bore E. N. E. Dist. 8 Leagues, from whence we took our Departure, designing for Ternate, one of the Melucca Islands belonging to the Dutch, and distant from Guam, about 400 Leagues. We had a fresh Gale of Wind at N. E. and N. E. by E. with fair Weather, but very sultry. Lat. 12. 45. Var. 5. 30. E.

April 11. Nothing remarkable has occurr’d worth noting, but that we have generally had a strong Current setting to the Northward. At Two Yesterday Afternoon we made Land, bearing S. E. distant about 5 Leagues, being a low flat Island, all green, and full of Trees. Lat. 2. 54. N. This Island is not laid down in any Sea Chart; our Ship continues very leaky.

April 14. Yesterday in the Afternoon we saw Land, bearing W. S. W. 12 Leagues, being very high. The Current has set to the Northward this 24 Hours very strong. Lat. 1. 54.

April 15. Yesterday in the Afternoon we made other Land, which bore W. N. W. distant about 10 Leagues, and suppos’d it to be the N. E. Part of Celebes. We saw 3 Water-Spouts; one of which had like to have broke on the Marquiss, but the Dutchess by firing two Shot, broke it before it reach’d her. We saw a very large Tree a-float, with a Multitude of Fish about it; and 2 large Islands, the Southermost bearing S. W. distant about 8 Leagues, and the Northermost W. N. W. 7 Leagues, both being the same Land we saw Yesterday; and the latter we now suppose to be the S. E. Part of Moratay [Mortai] and the other the N. Part of Gilolo. At Noon the Southermost Land bore S. W. by S. 10 Leagues, and the Westermost 5 Leagues. N. Lat. 02. 13.

April 17. We having a Westerly Gale, and the Current setting against us, we gained little Ground in turning to get about Moratay. We had indifferent fair Weather all Night and Morning, but standing pretty much to the Southward, lost Sight of the Land, a strong Current setting to the Northward.

April 23. We had very stormy Weather for most Part since the 17th, the Marquiss and we suffer’d both in our Rigging. So that we begin to despair of getting to Windward of this Island Moratay, to reach Ternate, which is now near us; but we are obliged to keep Company with the Marquiss and Batchelor, who sail but very indifferent upon a Wind; and it’s the hardest upon our Ship’s Company, who are wearied almost to Death with continual Pumping, the Leak having encreas’d upon us since we came out of Guam, so that it is as much as 4 Men are able to keep her free Half an Hour, all the Watch being oblig’d to come to it once in 4 Hours.

April 29. We got 292 Lib. Weight of Bread from the Batchelor Yesterday Afternoon, in Exchange for Meat we sent ’em, which with what we had before, will last us about 20 Days, and not much longer. We begin to be very much disheartned, because Captain Dampier, who has been twice here, tells us, that if we can’t get Ternate, or find the Island Tyla [Tulur], we can reach no Port or Place to recruit at, and that it will be impossible to get Provisions for us on the Coast of New Guinea, should we be forc’d to go thither; upon which I sent my Opinion aboard of our Consorts, and desir’d they would call a Committee, and agree how to proceed next; which they did as follows.

IT is agreed to make the best of our Way to the Island of Tula, where we are in Expectation of supplying our selves with Wood, Water and Provisions, to cruize 10 or 12 Days for this Island, being uncertain of its Scituation; and in Case the Wind should present sooner, that we can fetch Ternate, then to make the best of our Way for it; but if the Wind should not present for Ternate, nor the Island Tula, then, if we see Occasion, to make the best of our Way to some Port in Mindanao. And for all Opportunities in going about and carrying a Light, we leave it to Captain Courtney in the Dutchess.

May 2. We shaped our Course for Ternate a second Time, being in all Probability to the Westward of Gillolo, having made by our Reckoning 3 Degrees of Longitude to the Westward of Moratay.

May 3. About 8 this Morning we made Land, which we took to be some of the Islands lying off the N. East Part of Celebes. It bore W. S. W. of us, distant about 15 Leagues.

May 7. Fair Weather till 4 this Morning, when there came up a violent Shower, with great Flashes of Lightning. At Break of Day we saw Land trending from S. E. by S. to S. S. W. which at first appear’d like 5 Islands, but after it clear’d up, we plainly perceiv’d it was one continued Land; we also saw other Lands to the Westward of that, which bore W. by S. distant about 10 Leagues, and were of Opinion, that we were got to the Eastward of Gillolo a second Time. We were the more inclinable to believe this, because whenever we try’d the Current, we generally found it set to the Eastward very strong, tho’ we little thought it could have driven us so far back.

May 9. Yesterday in the Afternoon all the Officers met aboard us to consult about the Land, and what Course to take; but being divided in Opinions, we defer’d coming to a Resolution, till such Time as we were better satisfy’d. We try’d the Current at 4 a Clock, when it set N. N. W. after the Rate of 20 Miles in 24 Hours. We made no other Land all Day than that we first saw, so stood on and off all Night, expecting a Gale to run in with it in the Morning, but having Calms for the most Part, and a Current setting against us, we still lost Ground, and made another round high Hummock about Noon, which bore S. E. by E. distant 8 Leagues; the Southermost Land bearing at the same Time S. by E. 7 Leagues, and the Westermost W. by S. 8 Leagues.

May 10. I sent the Pinnace aboard the Marquiss with 12 Hogsheads and a Barrel of Water, their Stock being almost spent, and in their Way order’d ’em to speak with the Batchelor and Dutchess, to be satisfy’d what Allowance of Pady (being Rice in the Husk) their Men were at; because ours had a Notion they had more than we, I having order’d ’em but a Pound and a Quarter for 5 Men, whereas before they had two Pound. Upon Enquiry I found the Ship’s Companies far’d all alike; but to make ’em easie, agreed with Capt. Courtney and the rest to make it 2 Pound again; at which Allowance we have not above 12 Days at most, being all the Bread Kind we have in the Ship.

May 12. We were satisfied that the many Islands and Land that we saw for these several Days was the Straights of New Guinea; we spoke with the Dutchess, who had been near that Land where we perceived the greatest Opening, and they told us the Reason of their keeping in with the Shore was with a Design to have anchored, but meeting with irregular Soundings, did not think fit to adventure it. They sent their Boat ashore to the Eastermost small Island, to see what they could meet with. We stood within a Mile and half of the Shore, when the Water began to discolour. We sounded and had 30 Fathom Water, and presently after but 6; so we went about, and stood off till the Dutchess’s Boat return’d, who gave us an account that they had seen the Tracks of Turtle, and Mens Feet, with Fire-places lately made. These Islands are in the same Climate with the Spice Islands, and no doubt would produce Spice, if planted. I went on board the Dutchess, and agreed with Capt. Courtney to send the Pinnace ashore, standing on and off with our Ships all Night. Lat. 00. 24. S. Long. 236. 25. West from London.

May 13. We kept turning to Windward this 24 Hours, betwixt the Southermost long Track of Land we made first of all, and the Islands to the Eastward of it, where we expected to find the Passage betwixt Gillolo and New Guinea.

May 15. We being jealous of each other, who had the most Provisions, we this Day met aboard the Batchelor, and carried an Account with us of what each Ship had left, and on making a strict Rummage there, we found more Rice than we expected; so that with the shortest Allowance we may subsist at Sea above 3 Weeks longer. Each Ship’s Proportion of the Provisions we had left being weigh’d, we then return’d to our Ships in a better state than we expected.

May 18. We have passed several Islands, and are now in sight of what we account the Point or Cape of New Guinea, and the South End of Gillolo, which appears about 8 Leagues asunder, with some Islands near each side; we have commonly little Wind, and very verable. This being the Time that the S. East Monsoon begins, which made the Weather and Wind very uncertain. Lat. 2. S.

May 20. The Dutchess generally kept a-head in the Night, with her Pinnace a-head of her, because the Currents are so very uncertain, and being in an unknown Track, we cannot be too careful in the Night. We are still in sight of the High Lands of New Guinea, and several Islands to the Northward, which we find laid down in no Draught, so we noted them as we past by. This Way into India would not be half so dangerous as it is imagined, were it well known. While we had any Breeze of Wind, in the Day we towed our Prize. We made another long high Island trending from S. by E. to W.S.W. distant about 12 Leagues, and crowded along Shore to make what it was, judging it to be the Island Ceram. We likewise made another Island to the Northward, which bore N. by W. distant about 7 Leagues. S. Lat. 03.

May 21. Being close under it, I sent the Pinnace aboard the Dutchess yesterday Afternoon to know what they made of the Land, and what they design’d to do; their Boat met ours, and told ’em Capt. Dampier was of the same Opinion with us, that it is the Island Ceram.