Impresa of the printer, "Pegasus," and below, In "Venetia 1560."
Obl. 8vo, 16 ff., 29 plates.[1308]
Mrs. Stisted's copy is dated 1562, and there is one at Vienna, in the Imperial Library, of the same date.
51.
Splendore delle virtuose giovani dove si contengono molte, & varie mostre a fogliami cio è punti in aere, et punti tagliati, bellissimi, & con tale arteficio, che li punti tagliati serveno alli punti in aere. Et da quella ch' è sopragasi far si possono, medesimamente molte altre.
In Venetia Appresso Jeronimo Calepino, 1563.[1309]
8vo, 20 ff., 35 plates of scroll patterns in the style of "Il Monte."
Dedication "Alla molto honorata M. Anzola ingegniera succera mia digniss." Francesco Calepino, wishing, he says, to "ristampare la presente opera," he dedicates it to her. In Bib. Melzi, Milan, a copy dated 1567.
52.
Lucidario di recami, nel qual si contengono molte, & varie sorti di disegni. A punti in aere et punti tagliati, & a fogliami, & con figure & di più altre maniere, come al presente si usano non più venute in luce Per lequali ogni elevato ingegno potrà in diversi modi commodissimamente servirsi. In Venetia, Appresso Ieronimo Calepino, 1563.[1310]
8vo, 16 ff., 29 plates of flowing borders like the preceding.
53.
I Frutti opera nuova intitulata i frutti de i punti in stuora, a fogliami, nella quale si ritrova varie, et diverse sorti di mostre di ponti in Stuora, a fogliami, & punti in gasii & in punti in Trezola.[1311] Dove ogni bella et virtuosa donna potrà fare ogni sorte di lavoro, cioè fazoletti, colari, maneghetti, Merli, Frisi, Cavezzi, Intimelle, overo forelle, avertadure da camise, & altre sorti di lavori, come piu a pieno potrai vedere, ne mei per l' adietro d' alcun altro fatte & poste in luce.
Opera non men bella, che utile et necessaria a ciascuna virtuosa gentildonna. In Vinegia, 1564.[1312]
Obl. 8vo, 16 ff., 30 plates of patterns either in dots or small squares.
54.
Patrons pour brodeurs, lingières, massons, verriers, et autres gens d'esperit; nouvellement imprimé, à Paris, rue Saint-Jacques, à la Queue-de Regnard M.DLXIIII.[1313]
55.
Fede (Opere nova) intitulata: Dei Recami nella quale si contiene varie diverse sorte di mostre di punti scritto, tagliato, in Stuora, in Rede, &c. In Venetia, appresso Domenico de Franceschi in Frezzaria, all' insegna della Regina. M.DLVIII.
In 4to, ff. 16. In his Avis au Lecteur, Franceschi alludes to three other works he had published, styled La Regina, La Serena, and La Speranza.
56.
Serena opera nova di recami, nella quale si ritrova varie et diverse sorte di punti in stuora et punti a filo. In Venetia, Domenico di Franceschi. 1564.
Obl. 4to, ff. 16. Nos. 55 and 56 cited by Marquis d'Adda.
57.
Le trésor des patrons, contenant diverses sortes de broderies et lingeries; pour coudre avec grande facilité et pour ouvrer en diverses sortes de piquer avec l'ésguille, pulveriser par dessus et faire ouvrages de toutes sortes de points &ct par Jean Ostans. Lyon, Ben. Rigaud. 1581, in 4-to.[1314]
58.
Ostans Giovanni. La vera perfettione del disegno di varie sorti di Recami, et di cucire, &c. ... punti a fogliami punti tagliati punti a fili et rimessi punti in cruciati, punti a stuora, et ogni altra arte che dia opera a disegni. Fatta nuovamente per Gio. Ostans. Vittoria, con gratia et privilegio dell' Illus. Senato Venetiano per anni.[1315] In Venetia appresso Gio. Ostans, 1567.
4to obl., 4 cahiers of 8 ff., 74 plates. Letter of Ostans to Lucretia Contarini; verso, an engraving of Lucretia Romana, surrounded by her women, signed Jose. Sal. (Joseph Salviati), who furnished the design, two sonnets, and Aves. A striking example of the borrowing between France and Italy in the sixteenth century, probably of the school of Fontainebleau. Grotesques like A. du Cerceau, scrolls after E. de Laulne, fresco of figures from G. Tory. Brunet describes a copy dated 1591.
59.
Ostans. La vera perfettione del desegno &ct. Venetia M.DLXXXIIII., presso gli heredi Valvassori e Gio. Dom. Micheli al segno dell' Ippogrifo.
In 4to obl. (Cited by Marquis d'Adda.)
60.
Neues Künstlicher, Modelbuch von allerhand artlichen und gerechten Mödeln, &c., bei B. Tabin.[1316]
61.
Le livre de Lingerie, composé par Maistre Dominique de Sera, Italien, enseignant le noble & gentil art de l'esguille, pour besongner en tous points: utile & profitable à toutes Dames & Damoyselles, pour passer le temps, & euiter oysiveté.
Nouvellement augmenté, & enrichi, de plusieurs excelents & divers patrons, tant du point coupé, raiseau, que passement, de l'invention de M. Jean Cousin, Peintre à Paris.
A Paris. Chez Hierosme de Marnef, & la veufve de Guillaume Cauellat, au mont S. Hilaire à l'enseigne du Pelican. 1584. Avec privilege du Roy.[1317]
In the Cat. d'Estrées; No. 8848, is Livre de Pourtraicture de Jean Cousin. Paris, 1637, in 4 fig.
4to, 28 ff., 51 plates of mediæval design.
Frontispiece, three women and a child at work, on each side of the title a man and a woman at work under a trifoliated canopy.
Privilege for three years to H. de Marnef, "juré libraire en l'Université de Paris."
"L'auteur aux lecteurs." He takes his pen to portray what he has seen "en Italie, Espagne, Romanie, Allemagne, & autre païs, dont je ne fais aucune mention à cause de trop longue plexite," that he gives at least eighty designs for the use and singular profit of many, "hommes tant que femmes." Below, "Finis coronat opus."
Then follows a "Balade" of 28 lines. On the last page, the impresa of Cavellat, a pelican in its piety, "Mors in me vita in me."
62.
Frano Gio. Libro delle mostre da ceuser per le donne.
16 engravings on wood and 8 on copper. (Cited by Marquis d'Adda.)
63.
Danieli Bartholomeo Recamatore libro di diversi disegni per Collari, punti per Fazzoletti et Reticelle divarie sorte. Agostino Parisini forma in Bologna.
15 leaves obl. 8vo, entirely engraved au burin, towards the end of the sixteenth century.[1318]
64.
Ornamento delle belle et virtuose donne opera nova nella quale troverrai varie sorti di frisi, con li quali si potra ornar ciascuna donna, & ogni letti con ponti tagliato, ponti gropposi, & ogni altra sorte di ponti per fare quelle belle opere che si appartengono alle virtuose & lodevoli fanciulle.
On a scutcheon, with 3 figures below, "Libro Primo." Lib. Victoria and Albert Museum.
65.
Les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts et ouvrages de Lingerie. Servans de patrons à faire toutes sortes de poincts, couppé, Lacis & autres. Dedie a la Royne. Nouvellement inventez, au proffit & cōtentement, des nobles Dames & Damoiselles & autres gentils esprits, amateurs d'un tel art. Par le Seigneur Federic (sic) de Vinciolo Venitien. A Paris. Par Iean le Clerc le ieune, ruë Chartiere, au Chef Sainct Denis. 1587. Avec privilege du Roy.[1319]
Les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts et ouvrages de Lingerie ou est representé les sept planettes, & plusieurs autres figures & pourtraitz servans de patrons à faire de plusieurs sortes de Lacis. Nouvellement inventez, au proffit & cōtentement des nobles Dames & Damoiselles & autres gentils esprits, amateurs d'un tel art. Par le Seigneur Federic de Vinciolo Venitien. A Paris. Par Iean le Clerc le ieune, ruë Chartiere, au Chef Sainct Denis. 1587. Avec privilege du Roi.
(At the end.)
Privilege for nine years to "Iean le Clerc le ieune, 'tailleur d'histoires,' à Paris," signed 27 June, 1587. "De l'Imprimerie de David le Clerc Rue Frementel à l'Estoille d'Or."
4to.
The first part consists of 40 ff., 36 of patterns and 4 preliminary pages.
P. 1. The title-page with decorated border, in which are two ladies at work. (See Title-page of this work.)
P. 2. Dedication of "Le Seigneur Federic de Vinciolo aux Benevolles Lecteurs," in which he sets forth that several authors before him having published certain patterns for work that "les Seigneurs, Dames, & Damoyselles ont eu pour agréable," he, to show "la bonne volonté que je porte à la France, laquelle m'ayant été douce et favorable, depuis certain temps que j'ay quitté Venize, païs de ma nativité," wish to portray the present "pourtraicts d'ouvrages magnifiques tous differēs, & non encor usitez en cette cōtree ni aultres, & que j'ay tenus cachés & incōgnus jusques à maintenant," feeling assured that if the first you had seen "on engendré quelque fruit & utilité, ceux cy en aporteront d'avantage," and if I see this my invention pleases you, I will "vous faire participer d'un aultre seconde bande d'ouvrages."
P. 3. Dedication "A la Royne," Louise de Vaudemont, by Le Clerc, saying that having received from Italy some rare and singular patterns, and "ouvrages de l'ingerie & en ayāt invēte quelques uns, selon mon petit sçavoir, j'ay pensé puis que ces choses là appartienent principallement aux Dames," that he cannot do better than present them to the Queen, as if these patterns are useful (as he hears some less perfect and more rudely sketched have served and profited before), they ought to be offered to her Majesty. Signed last day of May, 1587.
P. 4. A sonnet.
Aux Dames Et Damoiselles.
"L'un sefforce à gaigner le cœur des grāds seigneurs
Pour posséder enfin une exquise richesse,
L'autre aspire aux Estats pour monter en altesse,
Et l'autre par la guerre alléche les honneurs.
Quand à moy, seulement pour chasser mes langueurs,
Je me sen satisfait de vivre en petitesse,
Et de faire si bien, qu'aux dames je délaisse
Un grand contentement en mes graves labeurs.
Prenez doncques en gré (mes Dames), je vous prie,
Ces pourtrais ouvragez lesquelz je vous dédie,
Pour tromper vos ennuis, et l'esprit employer.
En ceste nouveauté, pourrés beaucoup apprendre,
Et maistresses en fin en cest œuvre vous rendre.
Le travail est plaisant. Si grand est le loyer."
"Morir assidouamente per virtu,
Non morirè."
Then follow the 36 patterns set off in white on a black ground, viz., 20 "Ouvrages de point Couppé," the first plate with the double λλ, according to the fashion introduced by Francis I. of using Greek monograms, standing for Queen Louise. On the second page are two escutcheons, one of France, the other with the letter H for Henry III. Then follow eight "Passemens de point Couppé," which are succeeded by eight more "Ouvrages de point Couppé."
Part 2, 24 ff. Same decorated frontispiece and 22 plates of subjects in squares for stitches like the German patterns of the present day. These consist of the Seven Planets, Sol, Luna, Mars, Mercury, Jupiter, Venus and Saturn. Four in squares of various designs; two of Amorini shooting stags and birds; Neptune and the winds; an arabesque with impresa of a column with circle and double triangle; five borders and squares, and two "bordures à carreaux," diamond-shaped meshes. The last page contains the Extract from the Privilege.
This is the original edition of Vinciolo, of which we know but one copy existing—that in the Library at Rouen.
It was followed the same year by two other editions, with alterations.[1320]
66.
Les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts pour les ouvrages de Lingerie. Nouvellement augmentez de plusieurs differens pourtraits servans de patrons à faire toutes sortes poincts couppé, Lacis, et autres reseau de poinct conté. Dedié à la Royne. Le tout inventé, au proffit & contentement des nobles Dames & Damoiselles & autres gentils esprits, amateurs d'un tel art. Par le Seigneur Federic de Vinciolo Venitien. A. Paris. Par Iean le Clerc le ieune, ruë Chartiere, au Chef Sainct Denis, pres le college de Coqueret. Avec privilege du Roy. 1587.
Les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts pour les ouvrages de Lingerie ou avons augmēté plusieurs nouveaux & differens portraitz de reseau, tout point conté, plusieurs nouvelles bordures et autres sortes differentes.
Nouvellement inventez au proffit & cōtentement des nobles Dames & Damoiselles & autres gentils esprits amateurs d'un tel art. Par le Seigneur Federick de Vinciolo Venitien. A Paris. Par Iean le Clerc le ieune, Ruë Chartiere, au Chef Sainct Denis, pres le college de Coqueret. Avec privilege du Roy. 1587.[1321]
1st Part, 40 ff. The same frontispiece, dedications, date, and sonnet, as the first, the same number of patterns, only the eight styled in the first "Passemens" are here all called, like the others, "Ouvrages" de point couppé. (See Fig. 4.)
2nd Part, 32 ff. This part has 30 patterns, comprising the 24 of the first edition, and six additional ones, consisting of squares and two hunting subjects.
67.
Les singuliers et nouveaux Pourtraicts, du Seigneur Federic de Vinciolo Venitien, pour toutes sortes d'ouvrages de Lingerie. Dedie a la Royne. Derechef et pour la troisieme fois augmentez Outre le reseau premier et le point couppé et lacis, de plusieurs beaux et differens portrais de reseau de point cōté avec le nombre des mailles, choze non encor veue ni inventée. A Paris. Par Iean le Clerc le ieune, ruë Chartiere, au Chef Sainct Denis, pres le College de Coqueret. Avec privilege du Roy. 1587.[1322]
This must be the first impression of the third edition.
Les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts, du Seigneur Federic de Vinciolo Venitien, pour toutes sortes d'ouvrages de Lingerie. Dedié a la Royne. Derechef et pour la troisiesme fois augmentez, outre le reseau premier & le point couppé & lacis, de plusieurs beaux et differens portrais de reseau de point cōté, avec le nombre des mailles, chose non encor veuë, ny inventée. A Paris. Par Iean le Clerc le ieune, au mont Saint Hilaire, du Chef Sainct Denis, pres le Clos Bruneau. Avec privilege du Roy. 1588.[1323]
68.
Les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts, du Seigneur Federic de Vinciolo Venitien, pour toutes sortes d'ouvrages de Lingerie. Dedié a la Royne. Derechef et pour la troisiesme fois augmentez, outre le reseau premier & le point couppé & lacis, de plusieurs beaux et differens portrais de reseau de point cōté, avec le nombre des mailles, chose non encor veuë, ny inventée. A Paris. Par Iean le Clerc le ieune, au mont Saint Hilaire, au Chef Sainct Denis, pres le Clos Bruneau. Avec privilege du Roy. 1588.[1324]
This must be subsequent to the Brussels impression, as Jean le Clerc has changed his address.
In the third edition, dorso of pp. 1 and 2, we have the addition of portraits of Louise de Vaudemont and Henry III., with a complimentary stanza of four lines under each.
In his Advertisement au lecteur, Vinciolo says that having promised, since the first impression of his book, to give a "nouvelle bande d'ouvrages," and not to disappoint certain ladies who have complained that he has not made "du reseau assez beau à leur fantaisie," I have wished for the third time to place before their eyes many new and different patterns of "reseau de point conté que j'ay cousus et attachez à la fin de mes premières figures," beneath which I have put the number and quantity of the stitches. Same dedication and sonnet as before. Privilege for nine years dated Paris, 25 May, 1587. "De l'Imprimerie de David le Clerc, ruë S. Jacques, au petit Bec, devant le College de Marmouttier."
1st Part, 40 ff., 36 plates, 27 of point couppé, two stomachers, and seven "Passemens" de point couppé; the same lettered "Ouvrages" as in the preceding impression.
2nd Part, 36 ff., 50 plates. The thirty already published in the second edition, after which follow the twenty additional of "reseau de point conté," announced in the Preface, consisting of "6 Quarrés, 2 Coins de Mouchoir, 2 Bordures, 6 animals: Lion, Pelican, Unicorn, Stag, Peacock, and Griffon"; and the Four Seasons. "Déesse des fleurs, representant le Printemps," etc.
These last twenty have the number of stitches given. (See Fig. 5.)
On the last page is an escutcheon with the arms of France and Poland.
69.
A later impression still.
Same title, date, portraits, dedication, and sonnet, only the Privilege is dated "ce douzième jour de Novembre 1587. De l'Imprimerie de David le Clerc, Rue S. Jaques, aux trois Mores."[1325]
34 ff. 30 plates, 1st part; 50 plates in 2nd.
70.
Les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts, du Seigneur Frederic de Vinciolo, Venitien, pour toutes sortes d'ouvrages de Lingerie. Dedie à la Royne Douairière de France.
De Rechef et pour la troisiesme fois augmentez, outre le reseau premier & le point couppé & lacis, de plusieurs beaux & differens portrais de reseau de point cōté, avec le nombre des mailles, chose non encore veuë ny inventée.
A Paris. Par Iean le Clerc, ruë Saint Jean de Latran, à la Salemandre. Avec privilege du Roy. 1595.[1326]
This impression is dedicated to Louise de Vaudemont, now "Reine Douairière," Henry III. having died in 1589.
71.
The same title as that of 1595—differing only in date.[1327]
Privilege for six years, "donné à Mantes, le 3 Juillet 1593." At the foot, "De l'Imprimerie de David le Clerc au Petit Corbeil 1606."
The 1st part has 32 ff. and 36 plates; 32 "Ouvrages de poinct couppé," and 4 stomachers.
The 2nd part 46 plates, same as those of 1588, only four less.
On the last page the escutcheon of France and Navarre.
72.
Les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts, du Seigneur Federic de Vinciolo Venitien, pour toutes sortes d'ouvrages de Lingerie. Dedie a la Royne. Derechef et pour la quatrieme fois augmentez, outre le reseau premier et le point couppé et lacis, de plusieurs beaux et differens portrais de reseau de point conté, avec le nombre de mailles, chose non encore veue ni inventee. A Thurin. Par Eleazaro Thomysi. 1589.[1328]
Described in Cat. Cicognara with the date 1658. The 1st part 44 ff. and 39 plates; the 2nd with 36 plates.
The editions of 1613 and 1623 are described in their chronological order. Nos. 64 and 71.
That of 1603 we have not seen; but M. Leber states it to be equally rich with that of 1623.
The copies of Vinciolo in the Bodleian bear the dates of 1588, 1603, and 1612.
Baron Pichon has a copy of an impression of 1612.
One at Bordeaux, in the Bib. de la Ville, is dated 1588.
In a book sale at Antwerp, March, 1864, there was sold the following:—
Lot 528. Livre de Patrons de Lingerie dediè a la Royne, nouvellement invente par le seignr Frederic de Vinciolo, Venitien. Paris, Jean le Clerc, 1598.—Les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraicts pour toutes sortes d'ouvrages de Lingerie. Paris, Ibid., 1598.—Les secondes œuvres et subtiles inventions de Lingerie. Paris, Ibid., 1598.—Nouveaux pourtraicts de Point coupé et Dantelles en petite moyenne et grande forme. A. Montbeliard, Jacques Foillet, 1598. 4 tom. 1 vol. in-4. v. anc. fig. sur bois.
It went for 440 francs to a Mr. Ross. We do not know the editions of 1598.
As M. Leber observes, the various editions of Vinciolo, published by Le Clerc and his widow, from 1587 to 1623, and perhaps later, are only impressions more or less varied of the two distinct books, the one of point coupé, the other of lacis.
The work of Vinciolo has been reprinted in several countries. In England it has been translated and published by Wolfe. (See No. 72.) At Liege, by Jean de Glen. (See No. 79.) Mr. Douce says that it was reprinted "at Strasburg, 1596, and at Basle, 1599, with a second part, which is rare, and sometimes contains a portrait by Gaultier of Catherine de Bourbon."
In the Bib. Nat. (Grav. B. c. 22), a volume headed Vinciolo (Federigo) Peintre Venitien et ses imitateurs, contains, with "La pratique," etc., of Mignerak (See No. 93), a German copy of the "nouveaux pourtraits," the work printed by Ludwig Künigs, at Basle, 1599 (See No. 85); and a German work headed "Broderies sur filet," 50 plates engraved upon copper.
73.
New and singular patternes and workes of Linnen. Serving for patternes to make all sortes of Lace edging and Cut-workes. Newly invented for the profite and contentment of Ladies, Gentlewomen, and others that are desirous of this Arte. London: Imprinted by J. Wolfe and Edward White, 1591.[1329]
EPISTLE TO THE READER.
Having framed a body of the best and rarest manner in true perfection of sundrie sortes of deuises or workes, as well for frame-workes as other needle-workes, I devised with all diligence and industrious studie to sattisfy the gentle mindes of vertuous women by bringing to light things never before as yet seene nor committed to print; All which devises are soe framed in due proportion as taking them in order, the one is formed or made by the other, and soe proceedeth forward; Whereby with more ease they may be sewed and wrought in Cloth, and keeping true accompt of the threads, maintaine the bewtey of the worke. And more, who desyrith to bring the worke into a lesser forme, let them make the squares lesse. And if greater, then inlarge them, and so may you worke in divers sortes, either by stitch, pouncing, or pouldering upon the same as you please. Alsoe it is to be understood that these squares serve not onely for cut-workes, but alsoe for all other manner of seweing or stitching, noteing withall that they are made to keepe the work or deuise in good order and even proportion—And even if ye will that squares be greater, make of two, one, four, two, and soe they will be larger. And in this manner may you proceed in all.
God prosper your desires.
Then follows the dedication:
To the Right Worshipful Gentlewoman, Mistress Susan Saltonstall, wife to the right Worshipfull Mr. Richard Saltonstall, Alderman of the City of London (afterwards Lord Mayor, and knighted in 1597).
It being my chance (Right Worshipfull) to lighten upon certaine paternes of cut-worke and others brought out of Foreign Countries which have bin greatly accepted of by divers Ladies and Gentlewomen of sundrie nations and consequently of the common people; This seemed unto mee a sufficient instance and argument to bestowe likewise some paines for the publishing thereof, But being in suspense of the dedication two causes induced mee to imbolden myselfe to present it unto your acceptation and patronage: First because that rare devises and inventions are for the most part more agreeable and gratefuller accepted, than ordinarie and common things, although of great price and value, Secondlie because these workes belong chiefly to Gentlewomen for to passe away their time in vertuous exercises Wherefore to fit and accommodate the dedication aright to the contents and subject of the book I thought it not amisse to offer it unto your worship in token of thankfullness for so many benefites which I have received so bountifullie at your hands Assuring myselfe moreover that as these patternes will bring sufficient contentment and profite to all well-willers, that are desirous of this Arte, soe they shall for ever acknowledge themselves to be beholden chiefly unto you, being the chiefest occasion of the publishing and setting forthe thereof. And therefore uppon hope that you will take these inventions in good parte, which in time I am purposed (If God permit) to increase and augment with more paternes of worke. In the meantime I pray God give to your Worship a happie prosperous and long life with a full accomplishment of all your vertuous desires.
Your worshipps most dutiful
Servant and Kinsman,
Adrian Poyntz.
74.
Fiori di ricami nuovamente posti in luce ne i quali sono varii, et diversi dissegni di lavori; Come Merli, Bauari, Manichetti, & altre sorti di opere, che al presente sono in uso, utilissimi ad ogni stato di Donne. Seconda Impressione.
Impresa of Mercury. Below—
In Bologna, per Giovanni Rossi. MDXCI. Ad instanza di Tomaso Pasini.[1330]
Obl. 8vo, 20 ff., 18 plates like Vecellio, one "bavaro."
Dedicated by the author to "La Signora Silveria Rossi Ghisolieri."
Mostly indented patterns on black grounds.
75.
Prima Parte de' fiori, e disegni di varie sorti di Ricami moderni come merli, bavari, manichetti, & altri nobili lavori che al presente sono in uso.
A figure of Peace. Below—
In Venetia, Appresso Francesco di Franceschi Senese all' insegna della Pace 1591.[1331]
Obl. 8vo, 20 ff., 17 plates in the style of Vecellio.
Dedication to "La Signora Gabriella Zeno Michele," signed "Di Venetia alli 19 di Marzo, 1591, Giovanbattista Ciotti." The last plate a figure of Fortune, with "Finis in Venetia 1591. Appresso Nicolo Moretti, ad instantia di Francesco di Franceschi."
76.
La vera perfettione del disegno di varie sorti di ricami & di cucire ogni sorti de punti à foglami, punti tagliati, punti a fili & rimessi, punti incrociati, punti à stuoro & ogn' altre arte, che dia opera à disegni. E di nuovo aggiuntovi varie sorti di merli, e mostre, che al presente sono in uso & in pratica.
Impresa of Peace differing from the preceding.
In Venetia, Appresso Francesco di Franceschi Senese all' insegna della Pace. 1591.[1332]
Obl. 8vo, 86 ff., 72 plates.
Dedicated to "Signora Lucretia Contarini, per matrimonio Priula Nobile Gentildonna Venetiana," by Giovanni Ostans.
A woodcut of Lucretia working with her maidens, signed Jose Sol. 1557.
Patterns, Small Squares, Gorgets, Youth, Paris, Pyramus and Thisbe, Arabesques, Grotesques, and an Alphabet.
On the last leaf, dorso, A. B. C. D. "tutte sono quaderni." A figure again of Peace, and "In Ven. 1590."
77.
Corona delle nobili et virtuose donne. Libro primo. Nel quale si dimostra in varij Dissegni, tutti le sorti di Mostre di punti tagliati, punti in aria, punti à Reticello, e d' ogni altra sorte cosi per Freggi come per Merli, & Rosette, che con l' Aco si usano hoggidì per tutta l' Europa. Et molte delle quali Mostre possono servire anchora per Opere à Mazzette. Aggiuntivi in questa Quarta impressione molti bellissimi dissegni non mai più veduti.
Then follows the printer's impresa of the stork and serpent. "Voluptatum et malorum effetuu dissipatio," with a lady at work on each side, and below—
Con privilegio. In Venetia, Appresso Cesare Vecellio in Frezzaria nelle Case de' Preti. 1592.[1333]
Which is repeated in the 2nd and 3rd Books.
Obl. 4to, 32 ff., 28 plates.
Dedication of Vecellio "Alla Clarissima, et Illustrissima Signora, Viena Vendramina Nani, dignatissima Consorte dell' Illustamo Sig. Polo Nani, il Procurator di S. Marco," in which he refers to his work on costume, and says that he dedicates this book to her for the delight she takes in these works and "in farne essercitar le donne di casa sua, ricetto delle piu virtuose giovani che hoggidì vivano in questa città." Signed: Venice, Jan. 20, 1591.
Beautiful designs, among which are three corners for handkerchiefs, the last lettered: "Diverse inventioni p. cantoni dee fazoletti."
On Plate 3, within a point coupé border, is a statue of Venus standing upon a tortoise, with other figures, and above, "Conviensi, che della Donna la bontà, & non la bellezza sia divulgata," and underneath:—
"Veneer io son, de le mirabil mani
Del dotto Fidia d' un bel marmo finta.
In me vedete atti gentili, e humani,
Ch' esser dè Donna à gentilezza accinta.
Io sopra una Testugine dimora,
Perchè stia in Casa, e sia tacita ogn' hora."
Corona delle nobili et virtuose donne. Libro secondo.
Nel quale si dimostra in varij Dissegni, tutte le sorti di Mostre de puute tagliati, punti in aria, punti à Reticello, e d' ogni altra sorte, cosi per Freggi, come per Merli, & Rosette, che con l' Aco si usano hoggidì per tutta l' Europa. Et molti delle quali Mostre possono servire anchora per Opere à Mazzette. Aggiuntivi in questa Quarta Impressione molti bellissimi dissegni non mai più veduti. Con Privilegio. In Venetia, Appresso Cesare Vecellio, in Frezzaria nelle Case de' Preti. 1592.
28 ff., 26 plates.
The dedication of this and the next book, though differently worded, are addressed to the same lady as the first. This is dated Jan. 24, 1591.
Among the patterns are two designs for handkerchiefs, and on the last plate a statue of Vesta, within a point coupé border.
Corono delle nobili et virtuose donne. Libro terzo. Nel quale si dimostra in varii dissegni molte sorti di Mostri di Punti in Aria, Punti tagliati, Punti a reticello, and ancora di picciole; cosi per Freggi, come per Merli, & Rosette, che con l' Aco si usano hoggidi per tutta l'Europa. Con alcune altre inventione di Bavari all' usanza Venetiana. Opera nouva e non più in luce. Con privilegio. In Venetia Appresso Cesare Vecellio, stà in Frezzaria nelle Case de' Petri. 1592.
Dedication dated June 15, 1591. Vecellio says he has added "alcune inventioni di bavari all' usanza nostra." In the copy (Bib. de l'Arsenal, 11,955 bis) are added instructions to transfer the patterns upon parchment without injuring the book. The last plate shows how to reduce the patterns and how to prick them (Fig. 170). This is sometimes given at the end of the first book instead of the third.
28 ff., 26 plates, two of bavari.
On Pl. 27, woman with a torch and Cupid. At Pl. 28, in a point coupé border, is a fox holding the bust of a lady, the conceit of which is explained by the verses to be, that sense is better than beauty:—
"Trovò la Volpe d' un Scultore eletto
Una testa sì ben formata, tale,
Che sol le manca Spirito havresti detto,
Tanto l' industria, e l' arteficio vale,
La prende in man, poi dice; O che perfetto
Capo, e gentil; ma voto è d' inteletto."
78.
Gioiello della corona per le nobili e virtuose donne. Libro quarto. Nel quale si dimostra altri nuovi bellissimi Dissegni di tutte le sorte di Mostre di Punti in Aria, Punti tagliati & Punti à Reticello; così per Freggi, come per Merli, & Rosette, che con l' Aco si usano hoggidì per tutta l' Europa. Et molte delle quali mostre possono servire anchora per opere à Mazzette Nuovament posto in luce con molte bellissime inventioni non mai più usate, nè vedute. Con privilegio. In Venetia, Appresso Cesare Vecellio, in Frezzaria nella Casa de i Preti. 1594.
Same impresa of the stork and serpent.
Dedicated to the Sign. Isabella Palavicina Lupi Marchesa di Soragana, dated "Venetia alli 20 Novembrio 1592." Cesare Vecellio. 30 plates.[1334]
Vecellio, author of the Corona and Gioiello, also published a work on costume styled Degli Habiti Antichi et Moderni. In Venezia, 1590. Presso Damian Zenero. In the frontispiece is a salamander; on the last leaf a figure of Vesta. It has been reproduced by F. Didot, Paris.
He was not, as is often incorrectly stated, a relation, or even of the same family as Titian.
These are the earliest impressions we have had an opportunity of examining of Vecellio's works, which appear to have been widely circulated. The Bib. de l'Arsenal possesses two copies of the Corona (No. 11,955), from which we have described. In the other (No. 11,155 bis), Book 1 "ultima," Book 2 "quarta," are both dated 1593; and Book 3 "nuovamente ristampata la quarta volta," 1592. The plates all the same.
The Library of Rouen (No. 1,315) has a volume containing the Corona and Gioiello. Book 1 "quarta Imp.," Book 2 "ultima," both dated 1594; and Book 3 "quinta," 1593. The Gioiello, 1593.
In the Bodleian is a copy of the three books, date 1592; and another, date 1561, was in the possession of the late Mrs. Dennistoun of Dennistoun.
At Venice, in the Doge's Library, is a volume containing the three books of the Corona and the Gioiello, dated 1593.
Mrs. Stisted, Bagni di Lucca, also possesses the three books of the Corona, dated 1597, and the Gioiello, 1592.
At Bologna the Library has one volume, containing the first and second books only, evidently the original impressions. The titles are the same as the above, only to each is affixed, "Opera nuova e non più data in luce," and "Stampata per gli Hered' della Regina. 1591. An instantia di Cesare Vecellio, Stà in Frezzaria."
The same Library also possesses a volume, with the three books of the Corona, the first and third "ottava," the second "quarta," and the Gioiello, "nuovamente posto in luce." All "In Venetia appresso gli heredi di Cesare Vecellio, in Frezzaria. 1608."
At Vienna, in the new Museum for Art and Industry, is a copy of the five books, dated 1601.[1335]
Cav. Merli cites from a copy of the four books, dated 1600.
The various impressions, therefore, date from 1591 to 1608.
We see these different parts, like those of Vinciolo and all these old collections, have been printed and reprinted independently of each other, since the third part was at its fifth impression in 1593, while the first, which ought to have preceded it, was only at its fourth in 1594.[1336]
79.
New Model Buch darinnen allerley Gattung schöner Modeln der newen aussgeschitnen Arbeit auff Krägen, Hempter, Jakelet und dergleichen zu newen, so zuvor in Teutschlandt nicht gesehen. Allen thugentsamen Frawen und Jungkfrawen, Nätterinnen, auch allen audern so lust zu solcher kunstlichen Arbeit haben, sehr dienstlich.