Getruckt in uerlegung George Strauben, von S. Gallem, Anno 1593.[1337]
Translation.
New Patternbook, in which are all sorts of beautiful patterns of the new cutwork for collars, shirts, jackets, and such like, such as never before were seen in Germany. Most useful to all virtuous dames and such artistic works, very respectfully dedicated.
Printed for the publisher, G. Strauben.
A reprint of the third book of Vecellio's Corona.
80.
Neu Model-Buch, darinnen allerley gattung schöner Modeln der neuen, etc.
Probably a reprint of No. 79.
27 plates.
81.
Les singuliers et nouveaux pourtraits, pour toutes sortes de lingeries de Jean de Glen, dediés à Madame Loyse de Perez; à Liége, chez Jean de Glen, l'an 1597.[1338]
Obl. 4to, 39 plates, mostly borrowed from Vinciolo, as well as the title.
82.
Fior di Ricami nuovamente porti in luce. Fiorenze, 1596, ad instanza di Mattheo Florini.
4to obl., 24 plates and 2 leaves of text.[1339]
83.
Fiori di Ricami nuovamente porti in luce nei quali sono varie et diversi disegni di lavori, como merli, bavari, manichetti e altre sorte di opera. Siena, appresso Matteo Florini, 1603.
4to obl., 24 pages.[1340]
84.
Giojello, &c. Nel quale si di mostra altri novi bellissimi disegni di tutte le sorte, di mostre &c. ... di punti &c., cosi per fregi come per merli et rosette che con l' aco si usanno hoggi di per tutte l' Europa. Opere a Mazzetto nuovamente posta in luce con motte bellissime inventioni non mai più usate ne vedute. In Siena, Matteo Florini MDCIII.
4to obl. (Cited by Marquis d'Adda.)
85.
Schön neues Modelbuch von allerley lüstigen Mödeln naczunehen zu würken un zu sticke; gemacht im Jar Ch. 1597, zu Nürmberg, bey Balthaser Laimoxen zu erfragen.[1341]
Translation.
Fine new Patternbook of all sorts of pleasant patterns for sewing, working, and embroidering: made in the year of Christ 1597, at Nurmberg: to be had of Balthasar Laimoxen.
Obl. fol., 27 ff.
5 sheets, title-page, and poem, signed J. S. (Johann Sibmacher.)
Mr. Gruner has communicated to us a work with the same title, dated 1591.[1342]
86.
Nouveaux pourctraicts de point coupé et dantelles en petite moyenne et grande forme nouvellement inventez & mis en lumiere Imprimé a Montbéliard par Jacques Foillet clↄlↄxciix (1598).[1343]
Small 4to, 82 ff., 78 plates.
Frontispiece with borders composed of squares of point coupé.
"Avertissement aux dames," of three pages, stating these works are all composed of "point devant l'esguille, de point en toille, en bouclages, & de cordonnages." The writer gives patterns of roses of all sizes, "very little, middling, large, and very large," with from one to nine pertuis, or openings, holes. Also Carreaux in different forms, and lastly dantelles. "Je n'ay voulu omettre de vous dire que pour faire des dantelles, il vous fault jetter un fil de la grandeur que desiré faire vos dantelles, & les cordonner, puis jetter les fils au dedans, qui fera tendre le cordon & lui donnera la forme carrée, ronde, ou telle forme que desires, ce qu'estant faict vous paracheverès facilement. Enoultre vous verrez qu'estant bien petites deviennent peu a peu bien grandes jusques a la fin. Elles vous enricheront & embelliront vos ouvrages en les applicant aux bords d'iceux." Directions, we confess, perfectly enigmatical to us. The author finishes by exhorting the ladies to imitate Minerva and Arachne, "qui ont acquis un grand renom, pour avoir (cōme à l'envie l'une de l'autre) travaillé de l'esguille."
The avertissement is followed by an "Exhortation aux jeunes filles." in verse, of 21 lines, beginning—
"Si nuisible est aux humains la paresse," etc.
40 patterns of "roses," of point coupé.
And 18 of "Carreaux," variously disposed.
Then follow 20 patterns of lace, of "bien petites, petites, moyennes, & grosses," all "au point devant l'Esguille." (See Figs. 8 to 12.)
At the end: "La fin courone l'œuvre." This is the earliest pattern-book in which the word "dantelle" occurs.
87.
New Modelbuch darinnen allerley ausgeschnittene Arbeit, in kleiner, mittelmässiger und grosser form erst neulich erfunden. Allen tugenden Frawen vnnd Jungfrawen sehr nutzlich. Gedruckt zu Mumpelgarten durch Jacob Foillet, 1598.[1344]
88.
Fewrnew Modelbuch von allerhandt Künstlicher Arbeidt, nämlich Gestricht, Aussgezogen, Aussgeschnitten, Gewiefflet, Gesticht, Gewirckt, und Geneyt: von Wollen, Garn, Faden, oder Seyden: auff der Laden, und Sonderlich auff den Ramen, Jetzt Erstmals in Teutschlandt an Tag gebracht: Zu Ehren und Glūcklicher Zeitvetreibung allen dugentsamen Frawen, und Jungfrawen Nächerinen, auch allen andern, so lust zu solcher Kunstlicher Arbeit haben sehr dienstlich. Getruckt zu Basel.
In verlegung Ludwig Kūnigs MDXCIX.[1345]
Small obl., 33 ff., 32 plates.
Frontispiece border of point coupé. Title in Gothic red and black. Patterns, mostly borders, number of stitches given, "Mit xxxxvii., Bengen," etc. "Ende dieses modelbuchs."
89.
Béle Prérie contenant divers caracters, et differentes sortes de lettres alphabetiques, à sçavoir lettres Romaines, de formes, lettres pour appliquer sur le reseuil ou lassis, et autres pour marquer sur toile et linges, par Pier. le Bé. Paris, 1601.[1346]
In 4to obl.
90.
Modelbuch in Kupfer gemacht, Nürmberg, bei Michel Kuisner, 1601, by J. Sibmacher.[1347]
91.
Newes Modelbûch fûr Kûpfer gemacht, darinnen allerhand art newen Model von dem Mittel und Dick ausgeschniden duer Arbeit auch andern kunstlichen Nahework zu gebrauchen mit Fluss fur druck verfertigt. Mit Röm. Kais. Maj trentich Nürmberg 1604.[1348]
Translation.
New book of patterns (on copper) in which are copied out all kinds of new patterns for thick and thin materials, to be used also in the making of other artistic needlework.
Obl. 4to, 58 plates carefully engraved upon copper.
Title-page surrounded by a richly ornamented border, with two figures, one sewing, the other at embroidery; also a second ornamented frontispiece, dedication to Maria Elizabeth, Electress Palatine, dated 1601. Nuremberg, J. Sibmacher, citizen and engraver.
Then follow five pages of dialogue, given page 6, note 24, and 227.
A printed title to the next plate. "The following pattern may be worked in several different ways, with a woven seam, a flat, round, or crossed Jew stitch."[1349] It is probably meant for cut-work made on thin materials.
Then follow 58 leaves of patterns, the greater number of which have the number of rows written over each pattern. Pl. 38, with two patterns, is inscribed, "The following patterns are for thick cut-work." In the upper pattern, on the first leaf, are the arms of the Palatine; on the second, those of Juliers and Mark.
92.
Pretiosa gemma delle virtuose donne dove si vedono bellissimi lavori di ponti in aria, reticella, di maglia e piombini disegnati da Isabella Catanea Parasole. E di nuovo dati in luce da Luchino Gargano con alcuni altri bellissimi lavori nuovamente inventati. Stampata in Venetia ad instantia di Luchino Gargano MDC.[1350] See also No. 99.
93.
Allerhand Model zum Stricken un Nähen.[1351]
Obl. 4to, 64 plates. No date.
94.
A book of models for point coupé and embroidery, published at Padua, October 1st, 1604, by Pietro Paolo Fozzi. "Romano."[1352]
95.
Schön newes Modelbuch von 500 schönen aussor wählten, Kunstlichen, so wol Italiähnischen, Frantzösischen, Niederländischen, Engelländischen, als Teutschen Mödeln, Allen, Näher.... hstichern, &c., zu nutz. (Some of the words are illegible.)
Livre des Modelles fort utile à tous ceux qui besoignent à l'esguille.
At the foot of last page recto is, "Franckfurt am Mayn, bey Sigismund Latomus, 1605."[1353]
Small obl. 100 plates (Fig. 171), and coloured title-page with figures.
In the first plate is an escutcheon with this monogram (Fig. 172) surrounded with embroidery.
In the Nuremberg copy it is at p. 83.
96.
Schön newes Modelbuch, Von hundert vnd achtzig schönen kunstreichen vnd gerechten Mödeln, Teutsche vnd Welsche, welche auff mancherley Art können geneet werden, als mit Zopffnath, Creutz vnnd Judenstich, auch auff Laden zu wircken: Dessgleichen von ausserlesenen Zinnigen oder Spitzen. Allen Seydenstickern, Mödelwirckerin, Näderin, vnd solcher Arbeitgeflissenen Weibsbildern sehr dienstlich, vnd zu andern Mustern anleytlich vnd verstendig. Franckfurt am Mayn, In Verlegung Sigismundi Latomi. M.D.C.VII.[1354]
Small 4to obl. 180 patterns.
Sheets A-O (the last has only 3 leaves). On the title-page are two ladies, one working at a pillow, the other at a frame; in the back-ground, other women employed at various works. Another copy dated 1629. Mr. Arnold and Mr. F. S. Ellis.
97.
La pratique de l'aiguille industrieuse du très excellent Milour Matthias Mignerak Anglois, ouvrier fort expert en toute sorte de lingerie ou sont tracez Divers compartimens de carrez tous differans en grandeur et invention avec les plus exquises bordures, desseins d'ordonnances qui se soient veux jusques à ce jourd'hui tant poetiques historiques, qu'au tres ouvrages de point de rebord. Ensemble Les nouvelles invencions Françoises pour ce qui est de devotion et contemplation. A la Tres-Chrestiene Roine de France et de Navarre. Avec privilege 1605 du Roy.[1355]
A Paris, par Jean Leclerc, rue St.-Jean de Latran, à la Salamandre roialle.
Extract from "Discours Du Lacis."
"Ce chef d'œuvre divin n'est pas à l'adventure
Mais par art composé, par nombre, et par mesure;
Il commence par un, et va multipliant
Le nombre de ses trouz qu'un nœud va reliant,
Sans perdre aucunement des nombres d'entresuitte,
Croissant, et decroissant d'une mesme conduitte:
Et ainsi qu'il commence il acheve par un,
Du monde le principe et le terme commun.
Si l'on veut sans faillir cet ouvrage parfaire,
Il faut multiplier, adjouster, et soustraire:
Il faut bien promptement assembler, et partir,
Qui veut un beau Lacis inegal compartir.
Mais se peut il trouver, souz la voute azurée,
Chose plus justement en tous sens mesurée?
Ouvrage ou il y ait tant de proportions,
De figures, de traicts et de dimensions?
D'un point premièrement une ligne l'on tire,
Puis le filet courbé un cercle va descrire,
Et du cercle noué se trouve le quarré
Pour lequel retrouver tant d'esprits ont erré.
De six mailles se faict une figure egale,
De trois costez esgaux, pour forme pyramidale:
Et l'ouvrage croissant, s'en forme promptement
Une autre dont les deux sont egaux seulement.
Si l'on tire un des coings, se forme une figure.
D'un triangle en tout sens, d'inegale mesure.
Le moule plus tiré faict les angles pointuz,
Et l'ouvrage estendu faict les angles obtuz.
De mailles à la fin un beau quarré se faict,
Composé de quarrez, tout egal, et parfaict,
Quarré qui toutesfois se forme variable,
Or en lozange, et or en figure de table.
La bande de Lacis recouvert, à nos yeux,
Est comme un beau pourtraict de l'escharpe des cieux,
Dont chaque endroit ouvré nous represente un signe,
Le milieu, les degrez de l'Eclyptique ligne;
Le quarré, des vertus le symbole, et signal
De science du livre et bonnet doctoral,
Nous va representant l'Eglise et la Justice.
La façon de lacer figure l'exercice
D'enfiler une bague on bien l'art d'escrimer.
. . . . .
Le lacis recouvert sert de filet aux dames
Pour les hommes suprendre et enlacer leurs ames,
Elles en font collets, coiffures, et mouchoirs,
Des tentures de lits, tauayoles, pignoirs,
Et maint autre ornement dont elles les enlacent,
C'est pourquoi en laçant les femmes ne se lassent."
In 4to, 76 ff., 72 plates.
Frontispiece: Two ladies, with frames in their hands, labelled "Diana" and "Pallas." On the top, an escutcheon per pale France and Medicis, supported by Cupids. Beneath, Cupids with distaff and winding reels. Between the sides of a pair of scissors is a cushion on which is extended a piece of lacis, a "marguerite" in progress. (See Fig. 6.) Above, "Petrus Firens fecit, I. le Clerc excud." Below, "A Paris par Jean le Clerc Rue St. Jean de Latran à la Salamandre royalle."
Dedication of Jean le Clerc "A la royne," then Marie de Medicis, stating: "J'avois recouvré d'un personnage Anglois tres-expert en toute sorte de Lingerie;" but who this Milour Mignerak may be, history tells not.
Then follows the "Discours du Lacis," a poem, of which we give an extract.
The privilege is signed Aug. 2, 1605.
The patterns consist of the Queen's arms and cypher, 4 Scripture subjects: Adam and Eve, the annunciation, Ecce Homo, and Magdalen; 4 Elements, 4 Seasons; Roman Charity, Lucretia, Venus, and "Pluye d'or;" 6 Arbes à fruit, 6 Pots à fleurs, 30 Carrés grands, moyens et petits; 6 Bordures, and, what is quite a novelty, 6 "Passements faits au fuseau." (See Fig. 13): the first mention of pillow lace in any of the French pattern-books.
98.
Les secondes œuvres, et subtiles inventions de Lingerie du Seigneur Federic de Vinçiolo Venitien; nouvellement augmenté de plusieurs carrez de point de rebort. Dediée à Madame, sœur unique du roy. Ou sont representees plusieurs figures de Reseau, nombres de Carrez et Bordures tous differents, le tout de poinct conté, avec autres sortes de Carrez de nouvelles inventions non encore vues.
A Paris. Par Jean le Clerc, rue sainct Jean de Latran, à la Salemandre, 1613. Avec privilege du Roy.[1356]
A scarce and valuable volume, the fullest edition of the second part of Vinciolo's work.
4to, 68 ff., 61 plates.
It contains a—
Sonnet aux Dames & Damoyselles.
"Esprits rarement beaux qui fuyez la paresse,
Je vous fais un present qui la pourra chasser,
Quand vous desirez de gayement passer
Vostre temps, et monstrer de vostre main l'adresse.
Le present est utile et plein de gentillesse,
Il monstre les moyens de bien entrelasser.
Et faire au point couppé tout ce qu'on peut penser.
Cet exercise plaist à Pallas la Deesse.
Par ses enseignemens, avec l'esguille on fait
Des fleurons, des oyseaux, en ouvrage parfait,
Des chiffres et des nœuds, tels que l'amour desire.
Aymez cet exercise, et vous y occupez,
Et puis vous cognoistrez que sur les points couppez
En diverses façons quelque portrait se tire."
The author's address to the reader, and a
Dedication to "Madame, sœur unique du roy" (Catherine de Bourbon, sister of Henry IV., married, 1599, to the Duc de Bar), signed by Le Clerc.
On the second plates are her arms, a lozenge, France and Navarre with crown and cordelière, and the same lozenge also surmounts the decorated frontispiece, supported on either side by a genius (?) working at a frame and point coupé drapery.
7 Scripture subjects: The Salutation, St. Sacrement, Passion, Crucifixion, Adoration of the Kings, etc.; the number of the stitches given to each.
2 Stomachers, and various patterns of "carrez " and borders. 2 of "Point de rebort."
At the end is the "Discours du Lacis," already printed by Mignerak.
99.
Teatro delle nobili et virtuose donne, dove si rappresentano varij disegni di lavori novamente inventati et disegnati da Elisabetta Catanea Parasole Romana.
Dedicata alla Serenissima Principessa Donna Elisabetta Borbona d' Austria, Principessa di Spagna, da E. C. Parasole. Data di Roma a di 5 Marzo 1616.[1357] Other editions, 1620, 1625, and 1636. The last is dedicated to the Grand Duchess of Tuscany, and has the Medici and Della Rovere arms in the title-page.
Obl. 4to, 47 ff., 46 plates (44 in Prince Massimo's copy) beautifully executed, the titles printed to each plate, as "Lavori di punti in aria, Merletti di ponti reticella, Merletti a piombini," etc. (See Fig. 15.)
100.
Pretiosa gemme delle virtuose donne dore si vedono bellisimi lavori di ponto in aria, reticella, dimaglia e piombini disegnati da Isabella Catanea Parasole. E di nuovo dati in luce da Luchino Gargano con alcuni altri bellisimi lavori nuovamente inventate. Stampata in Venetea ad instantia de Luchino Gargano MDC.[1358]
101.
Gemma pretiosa delle virtuose donne, dore si vedono bellisimi lavori de Ponti in Aria, Reticella, di Maglia, e Piombini disegnatida Isabella Catanea Parasole.
In Rome, appreso Guliegno Facciotti, 1625.
102.
Zierat Buch, von allerhandt Kutschnur, Schleyer deckel, Krägen, Leibgürtel, Passmenten, Händschug, Wehrgeheng und Schubenehen, Messerscheyden, Secklen, Früchten, Blumen und ands. mehr.
Allen Perlenbefftern, Nederin, Lehrinngen und andern welche lust zu dieser Kunst tragen, sehr nützlich.
Inn diese Format zusammen ordiniert und gsetzt durch Daniel Meyer Mahlern. 1ster Theil.
Franckfuhrt am Mayn, bey Eberhardt Kusern zu finden.
11 ff., 9 plates.
Translation.
Decoration book of all sorts of Cords, Veil covers, Collars, Belts, Laces, Gloves, Shoulder knots, shoe-seams (?), Knife sheaths, Bags, Fruit, Flowers, and other things besides. Very useful to all Beadworkers, Seamstresses, Apprentices, and others, who take a pleasure or are fond of this art. Arranged and put into this form by D. M. M. 1st part.
103.
New Modelbŭch Darinnen allerley kunstliche Virsirung und Müster artiger Zŭege und schöner Blŭmmen zu zierlichen Ueberschlagen, Haupt Schurtz Schnŭptüchern Hauben Handschuhen, Uhren (?) gehenzen, Kampfütern ŭnd dergleichen auf Muhler naht und Seidenstŭcker arbeit gantz Kunstlich gemahlt und vorgerissen, dergleichen sie bevorn noch nie in Druck ausgegangen. 16 Leipzicht 19.
Inn Verlegŭng Henning Grosseren, de Jŭngeren Andreas Bretschneider Mahller.[1359]
Translation.
New pattern-book, in which all sorts of artistic ornamentations and patterns of pretty stuffs and beautiful flowers for covers for Head, Aprons, and Pocket-handkerchiefs, Caps, Gloves, Clock cases, Comb Cases, and such like, artistically sketched from painter and silk embroiderer's work, and which have never before gone out of print.
Small folio, 53 plates, and half a sheet of text, containing the dedication of the work to Madame Catherine von Dorstats, née Löser. There appear to be 3 plates wanting.
104.
A Schole House for the Needle. 1624.[1360]
Obl. 4to. Was sold at the White Knight's sale for £3 15s.
105.
Corona delle nobili et virtuose donne. Libro terzo. Nel quale si dimostra in varii dissegni tutte le sorti di Mostre di punti tagliati e punti in aria, punti Fiamenghi, punti a Retcello, e d' ogn' altra sorte, Cosi per Fregi, per merli e Rosette, che con Aco si viano hoggidi per lutta l'Europa. E molte delle quali Mostre porsono Serviri ancora per opera à Mozzete. Con le dichiarationi a le Mostre a' Lavori fatti da Lugretia Romana. In Venetia, appresso Allessandro de Vecchi, 1620.[1361]
27 ff., obl. 8vo.
106.
Corona delle Nobili et Virtuose Donne, Libro primo, nel quale si dimostra in varij Dissegni tutte le sorti di Mostre di punti tagliati, punti in Aria, punti Fiamenghi, punti a Reticello, e d' ogni altre sorte, cosi per Freggi, per Merli, e Rosette, che con l' Aco si usano per tutta l'Europa. E molte delle quali Mostre possono servire ancora per opere a Mazzete. Con le dichiarazioni a le Mostre, a Lavori fatti da Lugretia Romana.
In Venetia appresso Alessandro de Vecchi MDCXXV. Si vendono in Venetia al Ponte de' Baretteri alla libreria delle tre Rose.[1362]
Lady Wilton, in her Art of Needlework, quotes a copy dated 1620.
Obl. 4to, ff. 27. Portrait of Maria d'Aragon.
107.
Ornamento nobile, per ogni gentil matrona, dove si contiene bavari, frisi d' infinita bellezza, lavori, per Linzuoli, Traverse, e Facuoli, Piena di Figure, Ninfe, Satiri, Grotesche, Fontane, Musiche, Caccie di Cervi, Uccelli, ed altri Animali. Con ponti in aria, fiamenghi, et tagliati, con Adornamenti bellissimi, da imperare, per ogni Virtuosa Donna, che si diletta di perfettamente cucire. Opera, per Pittori, Scultori, e disegnatori giovevole alle lor professioni, Fatta da Lucretia Romana, il quinto volume di Suoi lavori. Dedicato alle Virtuose donne, in Venetia.[1363]
Fol., 20 plates.
Frontispiece, in point coupé frame. A woman in classic attire is represented under a Doric porch, standing on a tortoise, symbol of a home-loving woman. (See No. 77.) She holds a ball of thread in her hand. Behind, on the left, are two women at work; on the right, a sculptor chiselling a statue of Minerva.
The plates, which are rich and beautiful, are each accompanied by a short explanation, as "Degna de esser portata de ogni imperatrice;" "Hopera bellissima che per il piu il Signora Duchesa et altre Signore si servano per li suoi Lavori;" "Questa bellissima Rosette usano auco le gentildonne Venetiane da far traverse," etc. (Fig. 173.)
The bavari are executed in three different stitches: punto d' aieri, p. flamingo, and p. tagliato. This author and Vecellio give Flemish patterns (punti Fiamenghi). They consist mostly of rosettes and stars (gotico).
108.
Les excellents eschantillons, patrons et modelles du Seigneur Federic de Vinciolo Venitien, pour apprendre à faire toutes sortes d'ouvrages de Lingerie, de Poinct couppé, grands et petits passements à jour, et dentelles exquises. Dediez à la Royne. A Paris. Chez la Veufve Jean le Clerc, ruë Sainct Jean de Latran, à la Salamandre Royalle. Avec Privilege du Roy, 1623.[1364]
In 4to, 56 ff.
The old frontispiece and same "Avertissement."
Dedication to the Queen, Anne of Austria.
The Goddess Pallas invented "les ouvrages de lingerie, le poinct couppé, les grands and petits passements à jour, toutes sortes de dentelles, tant pour se desennuyer que se parer, par l'artifice de ses ingenieuses mains. Araciné s'y adonna, and bien qu'inferieure se voulant comparer à elle & en venir à l'experience, mais sa presomption fut chastiée." Many illustrious ladies have delighted in this "honneste exercise." Fastrade and Constance, wives of the Emperor Charlemagne and of King Robert, "s'employèrent de cette manufacture, & de leurs ouvrages ornèrent les églises & les autels." This royal "mestier" has reached perfection through the works of Vinciolo. I reprint and again increase his work, which I dedicate to your Majesty, to whom I presume they will be agreeable; the subject of which it treats is "une invention de déesse & une occupation de Royne—vous estant autant Royne des vertus que vous l'estes de deux royaumes." Signed, "la Veufve de feu Iean le Clerc."
Same sonnet.
Privilege for six years, dated Paris, last day of March, 1623.
55 ff., 58 plates, 24 ouvrages de point couppé and 8 of "Passements au fuzeau" (see Figs. 14 and 15), and alphabet.
Bavaro di Ponto d' Aere.—Con belissime figure ed altri flori.
"Bavari."—From Ornamento mobile of Lucretia Romana.
To face page 498.
109.
A Schole Howse for the Needle. Teaching by sundry sortes of patterns and examples of different kindes, how to compose many faire workes; which being set in order and forme according to the skill and understanding of the workwoman will, no doubt, yield profit unto such as live by the needle and give good content to adorne the worthy. London printed in Shoe Lane at the "Faulcon" by Richard Shorleyker, 1632.
To the Reader.
Gentle Reader, I would have you know that the Diversities of Examples which you shall find in this "Schoole-howse for the Needle" are only but patternes which serve but to helpe and inlarge your invention. But for the disposing of them into forme and order of Workes that I leave to your own skill and understanding. Whose ingenious and well practised wits will soe readily (I doubt not) compose them into such beautiful formes as will be able to give content, both to the workers and the wearers of them. And againe for your behoafe I have in the end of this booke made two scales or checker patternes which by enlarging or contracting into greater or lesser squares you may enlarge or make lesser any of the saide patternes and examples in the booke or any other whatever.
Vale!
And because I would not have any one mistaken in any of these patternes contayned in this Booke, for some peradventure will look to find workes set out in order as they should be wrought with the needle or florished upon the Tent, &c. But as I have said before in the beginning of this Booke, that, that is here published are only but diversitie of patternes, out of which the workwoman is to take her choice of one or more at her pleasure and so have them drawne out into forme and order of worke. Of which skill if it may be I would have serving-men (such as have time enough) to practice and be skilful in which will be quickly learned if they would, with a little patience applie their mindes to practise it. A quarter of the time that they spend in playing at cards, tables, quaffing and drinking would make them excellent in this knowledge especially such as are ingenious and indued with good wits, as for the most part all of them have; Againe it is a thing that no doubt would yield them both praise and profit, beside the pleasure and delight it would be unto them, and a good inducement to drawe on others of their own ranke and qualitie to the like practice and imitation.
110.
Here followeth certaine patternes of Cut-workes; and but once Printed before. Also sundry sorts of Spots, as Flowers, Birds, and Fishes, &c., and will fitly serve to be wrought, some with Gould, some with Silke, and some with Gewell (sic) or otherwise at your pleasure.
London; Pinted (sic) in Shoe-lane, at the signe of the Faulcon, by Richard Shorleyker. 1632.[1365]
Obl. 4to.
The copy in the Bodleian is probably due to the above. It has no date and varies in title: "Newly invented and never published before," with "crewell in coullers," etc.; and "Never but once published before." Printed by Rich. Shorleyker.
33 patterns and title.
111.
The needles excellency, a new booke wherein are divers admirable workes wrought with the needle. Newly invented and cut in copper for the pleasure and profit of the industrious. Printed for James Boler, &c., 1640.[1366]
"Beneath this title is a neat engraving of three ladies in a flower garden, under the names of Wisdom, Industrie, and Follie. Prefixed to the patterns are sundry poems in a commendation of the needle, and describing the characters of ladies who have been eminent for their skill in needlework, among whom are Queen Elizabeth and the Countess of Pembroke. These poems were composed by John Taylor, the Water Poet. It appears the work had gone through twelve impressions.... From the costume of a lady and gentleman in one of the patterns, it appears to have been originally published in the reign of James I."—(Douce.) From this description of the frontispiece, it seems to be copied from Sibmacher.
"The Needle's Excellency, or a new Book of Patterns, with a poem by John Taylor, in Praise of the Needle." London, 1640. Obl. 4to, engraved title, and 28 plates of patterns. Sold, 1771, £6 17s. 6d. (Lowndes, Bibliographer's Manual. New edit., by H. Bohn). Another copy of the same date, marked 12th edition, is in the Library of King's College, Cambridge. It consists of title, four leaves with the poem, subscribed John Taylor, and 31 leaves of copper cuts of patterns.
112.
Le Pompe di Minerva, per le nobili e virtuose donne che con industriosa mano di trattenersi dilettano di far Rezze, maglia quadra, punti in aria, punti in tagliati, punti a reticello, cosi per fregio come per merletti e rosette di varie sorti, si come oggidi con l'aco di lavorar usati per tutto l'Europa, arrichite di bellissimi et vaghi intagli cavati da più celebri autori di tal professione. In Pistoja, per Piero A. Fortunato.
In 8vo obl., dedicated to Caterina Giraldini, in Cellesi. August 20 1642.[1367]
113.
Dass Neue Modelbuch von schönen Nädereyen, Ladengewerk und Soterleins arbeit. Ander theil. Nürnberg, bey Paulus Fürsten Kunsthändler.
Obl. 4to, 3 sheets of text, 50 plates.
Dedicated to the Princess Rosina Helena. Nürnberg, March 20, 1666.[1368]
114.
In the Bib. Imp. (Gravures, L. h. 4. c.) is a vol. lettered "Guipure, gravures burin," containing a collection of patterns engraved on copper, 43 plates, four of which are double, pasted in the book, without title or date. Pomegranates, narcissus, lilies, carnations, most of them labelled "Kreutzstick, Frantzösischenstick, and Fadengewürck" (thread work), the number of stitches given, with Clocks (Zwickel) of stockings and other patterns.
115.
Model Buch, dritter Theil von unterschiedlicher Vögeln, Blumen und Früchten &cte. Von und in Verlegung Rosina Helena Fürtin. Nürnberg, Christoff Gerharts, 1676.
4to obl., engraved title and printed list; 42 wood plates, 4 large.
116.
Methode pour faire une infinité de desseins differens, avec des carreaux mi-partis de deux couleurs par une ligne diagnonale ou observations du père Dominique Donat, religieux carme de la province de Touleuse sur une mémoire inserée dans l'histoire de l'Académie royale des sciences à Paris, l'année 1704, presenté par le Rev. Père Sebastien Truchet. Paris, 1722.[1369]
72 geometric squares, with directions how to make them useful to architects, painters, embroiderers, "tous ceux qui se servent de l'aiguille," and others.
117.
Neues Neta- und Strickbuch fur das schöne Geschlecht, worinnen allerhand Zierrathen, wie auch viele neue Zwickel, nebst Buchstaben und Zahlen, sowohl zum Nähen als Stricken in zierlichen Nissen und Mustern befindlich sind. Mit vielen Kupfertafeln. Nürnberg und Leipzig, der Christoph Weigel und Schneider. 1784.[1370]
118.
Continuation der kunst- und fleisz-übenden Nadel-Ergötzung oder des neu ersonnenen besondern Nehe-Buchs dritter Theil, worinnen fleiszige Liebhaberinnen deeser nöthig und nützlichen Wissenchaft, ihr kunstliches Nadel-Exercitium, beij unterschiedlich vorfallenden Belegenheiten zu haben allerhand noch nie vorgekom̄ene Muster zu Deso gebrauch, vorlegt und en die Hand gegeben werden von Fr. Margaretha Helmin, zu finden in Nürnberg bei Joh. Christoph Weigel. Nürnburg. No date.[1371]