Bars. See Brides.
Bead Edge. A simple heading for pillow lace.
Bobbins. Small elongated wooden or bone reels on which the thread is wound for the purpose of lace-making. They are frequently ornamented with patterns pricked or stained, and polished. They are weighted with "gingles" or "jingles" (i.e., beads, coins, seals, seeds, or various articles).
Brides. A small strip or connection (1) of threads overcast with buttonhole stitches, or (2) of twisted or plaited threads. It is used instead of a ground-work of net; the word is French, its English equivalent being pearl-tie. The French word is chiefly employed.
Brides ornées = brides ornamented with picots, loops, or pearls.
Buttonhole Stitch. One of the chief stitches in needle-made lace; also known as close stitch, Point noué, and Punto a Feston.
Cartisane. A strip of parchment or vellum covered with silk or gold or metal thread, used to form a pattern.
Close Stitch = Buttonhole stitch.
Cordonnet. The outline to ornamental forms. The cordonnet consists (1) of a single thread, or (2) of several threads worked together to give the appearance of one large thread, or (3) of a thread or horsehair overcast with buttonhole stitches. In England called gimp.
Couronnes. Ornaments to the cordonnet. When they ornament the raised cordonnet in the body of the pattern they are known as fleurs volantes.
Coxcombs = Bars.
Dentélé = Scalloped border.
Droschel. Flemish word used in Belgium for net-ground made with bobbins.
Dressed Pillow. A term used by bobbin-lace makers to intimate that all accessories necessary are in their proper positions.[1373]
Edge. There are two edges to lace; the outer, which in trimmings and flounces is either scalloped or ornamented with picots, and the engrêlure or footing.
Engrêlure = Footing, or heading, of a lace, used to sew the lace on to the material it is to decorate.
Entoilage. French term for a plain mesh ground or galloon.[1374]
Fil de Crin. A thick or heavy outline or cordonnet.[1374]
Fil de Trace. The name by which the outlines of needle-made laces are distinguished.[1374]
Fillings. A word occasionally used for modes or jours; fancy stitches employed to fill in enclosed spaces in needle-made and bobbin laces.[1374]
Flax. Is composed of the filaments of the fibrous portion of Linum usitatissimum, an annual, native of Europe, and from it linen thread is spun. That of Flanders is the best for lace-making.
Fleurs Volantes. See Couronnes.
Fond. Identical with champ, entoilage, and treille. The groundwork of needle-point or bobbin lace as distinct from the toilé or pattern which it surrounds and supports. Grounds are divided into fonds claires, brides claires, and brides ornées. The fond claires include the Réseau or net-patterned grounds. Fond de Neige is also known as Œil de Perdrix.
Fond Simple. Sometimes called Point de Lille; is the purest, lightest, and most transparent of all grounds. The sides of the meshes are not partly plaited as in Brussels and Mechlin, nor wholly plaited as in Valenciennes and Chioggia; but four of the sides are formed by twisting two threads round each other, and the remaining two sides by simply crossing of the threads over each other. [See Grounds.][1374]
Footing. See Engrêlure.
Gimp. The pattern which rests on the ground or is held together by brides. The work should not, however be confounded with the material gimp, which was formerly called guipure.
In Honiton and the Midlands, the word denotes the coarse glazed thread used to raise certain edges of the design.[1374]
Gingles. A name given in Buckinghamshire, etc., to the bunches of coloured beads hung on to bobbins by means of brass wire, in order to give extra weight and so increase the tension of the threads.[1374]
Groppo [Italian]. A knot or tie.
Grounds. The grounds of laces are divided into two classes, one being called the bride, the other the Réseau. The bride ground is formed with plain or ornamental bars, in order to connect the ornaments forming the pattern. The Réseau ground is a net made with the needle or with bobbins, to connect the ornaments forming the pattern.
Guipure. A lace-like trimming of twisted threads. The word is now used to loosely describe many laces of coarse pattern. Guipure d'Art is the name given to modern darned netting.[1375]
Heading = Footing, engrêlure.
Jours. Ornamental devices occurring in various parts of a piece of lace. The earliest forms of jours may be seen in Venetian point lace, where they are introduced into the centre of a flower or other such device. [Modes are identical with jours.]
Legs = Bars.
Mat, or Math. The closely-plaited portions of flowers or leaves in bobbin-made lace; also the closely-worked portion of any lace.[1375]
Modes. See Jours.
Œil de Perdrix. See Fond.
Orris. A corruption of Arras. The term is now used to denote galloon for upholstering purposes. In the eighteenth century it was applied to laces of gold and silver.[1375]
Passement. Until the seventeenth century, laces, bands, and gimps were called passements à l'aiguille; bobbin laces, passements au fuseau. At present the word denotes the pricked pattern on parchment upon which both needle-point and bobbin laces are worked.
Passementerie. Now used for all kinds of fringes, ribbons, and gimp for dress trimmings.
Pearls, or Purls = Bars.
Pearl edge, or Purl edge. A narrow thread edge of projecting loops used to sew upon lace as a finish to the edge.[1375]
Pearlin, or Pearling [Scotch]. Lace.
Picot. Minute loops worked on to the edge of a bride or cordonnet, or added as an enrichment to a flower—as in the case of rose point, in which picots play an important part.
Pillow Lace. Lace made on the pillow, by twisting and plaiting threads. The French term is dentelle au fuseau.
Pizzo [Italian]. Lace.
Ply = A single untwisted thread.
Point Lace. Lace made with the point of the needle. The French term is Point à l'aiguille. The term point has been misused to describe varieties of lace, such as Point d'Angleterre, Point de Malines, etc., which are laces made on the pillow, and not with the point of the needle.
Point de Raccroc. A stitch used by lace-makers to join réseau ground.
Point Noué = Buttonhole stitch.
Point Plat. A French term for flat point executed without a raised cordonnet or outline cord.[1376]
Pricked. The term used in pillow lace-making to denote the special marking out of the pattern upon parchment.
Pricker. A short instrument used in bobbin lace to prick holes in the pattern to receive the pins.[1376]
Punto a Feston = Buttonhole stitch.
Purls = Brides.
Purlings = A stitch used in Honiton guipure to unite the bobbin-made sprigs.[1376]
Réseau. Ground of small regular meshes made on the pillow in various manners, and made by the point of the needle in fewer and less elaborate manners. The French term, as here given, is generally used in preference to any English equivalent.
Réseau Rosacé. See Argentella (Ch. Argentan).
Rouissage. The process of steeping the flax preparatory to its being spun for lace-making.
Rezél, Reseuil. See Lacis, Chap. II.
Runners. The name by which the bobbins which work across a pattern in bobbin lace are known.
Sam cloth. Old name for a sampler.