[1168]

"A good lace-maker easily earns her shilling a day, but in most parts of Devonshire the work is paid by the truck system, many of the more respectable shops giving one-half in money, the remaining sixpence to be taken out in tea or clothing, sold often considerably above their value. Other manufacturers—to their shame, be it told—pay their workers altogether in grocery, and should the lace-maker, from illness or any other cause, require an advance in cash, she is compelled to give work to the value of fourteen-pence for every shilling she receives. Some few houses pay their workers in money" (1875).

[1169]

Medals were won at the Chicago World's Fair for Devonshire lace by Mrs. Fowler and Miss Radford, of Sidmouth. The latter has also received the freedom of the City of London for a beautiful lace fan, her sprigs being the finest and most exquisite models of flowers and birds it is possible to produce in lace. A third medal was won by the Italian laces at Beer.

[1170]

Those held at Sidbury and Sidford are very successful, and the children, ranging in age from, nine to fifteen, come regularly for their "lace." It is interesting to watch the improvement in the work of the "flys," the first lesson, and as a rule each child makes forty to fifty before going on to anything further.

[1171]

At Beer, where fishing is the staple industry, in bad fish seasons the women can earn more than the men; and at Honiton in the hard winter of 1895 the lace-makers kept themselves and their families, and were spared applying for relief—all honour to their skill and self-helpfulness.

[1172]

"1539. Ane uther gowne of purpour satyne with ane braid pasment of gold and silver," etc.

"Twa Spanye cloikis of black freis with ane braid pasment of gold and silver."

"1542. Three peces of braid pasmentes of gold and silver."—Inventories of the Royal Wardrobe and Jewel House. 1488-1606. Edinb. 1815.

[1173]

1542. Same Inv.

[1174]

In the Inv. of the Earl of Huntley, 1511-12, there is mention of dresses "passamenté d'or."

[1175]

Chap. X., note.

1537. James V. and Lord Somerville at Holyrood:—"Where are all your men and attendants, my Lord?"

"Please, your Majesty, they are here"—pointing to the lace which was on his son and two pages' dress. The King laughed heartily and surveyed the finery, and bade him "Away with it all, and let him have his stout band of spears again."

[1176]

Croft's Excerpta Antiqua.

The Countess of Mar, daughter of the first Duke of Lennox and granddaughter by her mother's side to Marie Touchet. She was daughter-in-law to the preceptress of James VI., and in 1593 had the honour, at the baptism of Prince Henry, of lifting the child from his bed and delivering him to the Duke of Lennox. A portrait of this lady, in the high Elizabethan ruff, and with a "forepart" and tucker of exquisite raised Venice point, hung (circ. 1870) in the drawing-room of the late Miss Katherine Sinclair.

[1177]

"Une robe de velours vert couverté de Broderies, gimpeures, et cordons d'or et d'argent, et bordée d'un passement de même.

"Une robe veluat cramoisi bandée de broderie de guimpeure d'argent.

"Une robe de satin blanc chamarrée de broderie faite de guimpeure d'or.

"Id. de satin jaune toute couverte de broderye gumpeure, etc.

"Robe de weloux noyr semée de geynpeurs d'or."—Inv. of Lillebourg. 1561.

[1178]

"Chamarrée de bisette."—Inv. of Lillebourg. 1561.

"Ane rabbat of wolvin thread with passmentet with silver."

[1179]

Chap. III.

[1180]

See Lacis, Chap. II.

[1181]

See Needlework, Chap. I.

[1182]

Her lace ruffs Mary appears to have had from France, as we may infer from a letter written by Walsingham, at Paris, to Burleigh, when the Queen was captive at Sheffield Castle, 1578: "I have of late granted a passport to one that conveyeth a box of linen to the Queen of Scots, who leaveth not this town for three or four days. I think your Lordship shall see somewhat written on some of the linen contained in the same, that shall be worth the reading. Her Majesty, under colour of seeing the fashion of the ruffes, may cause the several parcels of the linen to be held to the fire, whereby the writing may appear; for I judge there will be some such matter discovered, which was the cause why I did the more willingly grant the passport."

[1183]

In 1575.

[1184]

There was some demur about receiving the nightcaps, for Elizabeth declared "that great commotions had taken place in the Privy Council because she had accepted the gifts of the Queen of Scots. They therefore remained for some time in the hands of La Mothe, the ambassador, but were finally accepted."—Miss Strickland.

[1185]

"Inventaire of our Soveraine Lord and his dearest moder. 1578."—Record Office, Edinburgh.

[1186]

Records of Life, by Miss H. Pigott. 1839.

[1187]

Similar to the New Year's Gift of the Baroness Aletti to Queen Elizabeth:—

"A veil of lawn cutwork flourished with silver and divers colours."—Nichols' Royal Progresses.

[1188]

"Twa quaiffs ane of layn and uther of woving thread.

Ane quaiff of layn with twa cornettes sewitt with cuttit out werk of gold and silver.

Twa pair of cornettes of layn sewitt with cuttit out werk of gold.

Ane wovin collar of thread passementit with incarnit and blew silk and silver."—Inv. of 1578.

[1189]

"Ane rabbat of cuttit out werk and gold and cramoisie silk with the handis (cuffs) thereof.

Ane rabbat of cuttit out werk of gold and black silk.

Ane rabbat of cuttit out werk with purpure silk with the handis of the same."—Ibid.

[1190]

"Twa towell claiths of holane claith sewitt with cuttit out werk and gold.

Four napkinnes of holane claith and cammaraye sewitt with cuttit out werk of gold and silver and divers cullours of silk."—Ibid.

[1191]

Published by Prince Labanoff. "Recueil de Lettres de Marie Stuart." T. vii., p. 247.

[1192]

Marriage Expenses of James VI., 1589. Published by the Bannatyne Club.

[1193]

Accounts of the Great Chamberlain of Scotland. 1590.—Bannatyne Club.

[1194]

In 1581, 1597, and 1621.

[1195]

The same privilege was extended to their wives, their eldest sons with their wives, and their eldest daughters, but not to the younger children.

[1196]

1633. In the Account of Expenses for the young Lord of Lorne, we find:—

"2 ells Cambridg' at 8s. the ell for ruffles, 16s.

"2 ells of Perling at 30s., the uther at 33s. 4d., £3 3s. 4d."—Innes' Sketches of Early Scotch History.

[1197]

January, 1686.

[1198]

"In 1701, when Mistress Margaret, daughter of the Baron of Kilravock, married, 'flounced muslin and lace for combing cloths,' appear in her outfit."—Innes' Sketches.

[1199]

In a pamphlet published 1702, entitled, An Accompt carried between England and Scotland, alluding to the encouragement of the yarn trade, the author says: "This great improvement can be attested by the industry of many young gentlewomen that have little or no portion, by spinning one pound of fine lint, and then breaking it into fine flax and whitening it. One gentlewoman told me herself that, by making an ounce or two of it into fine bone lace, it was worth, or she got, twenty pounds Scots for that part of it; and might, after same manner, five or eight pounds sterling out of a pound of lint, that cost her not one shilling sterling. Now if a law were made not to import any muslin (her Grace the Duchess of Hamilton still wears our finest Scots muslin as a pattern to others—she who may wear the finest apparel) and Holland lace, it would induce and stir up many of all ranks to wear more fine 'Scots lace,' which would encourage and give bread to many young gentlewomen and help their fortunes." Then, among the products of Scotland by which "we may balance any nation," the same writer mentions "our white thread, and making laces."

"On Tuesday, the 16th inst., will begin the roup of several sorts of merchants' goods, in the first story of the Turnpyke, above the head of Bells Wynd, from 9 to 12 and 2 till 5. 'White thread lace.'"—Edinburgh Courant. 1706.

[1200]

See Chap. XXV., Queen Anne.

[1201]

Edinburgh Advertiser. 1764.

[1202]

1745. The following description of Lady Lovat, wife of the rebel Simon, is a charming picture of a Scotch gentlewoman of the last century:—

"When at home her dress was a red silk gown with ruffled cuffs and sleeves puckered like a man's shirt, a fly cap of lace encircling her head, with a mob cap laid across it, falling down on the cheeks; her hair dressed and powdered; a lace handkerchief round the neck and bosom (termed by the Scotch a Befong)—a white apron edged with lace.... Any one who saw her sitting on her chair, so neat, fresh, and clean, would have taken her for a queen in wax-work placed in a glass case."—Heart of Midlothian.

Sir Walter Scott, whose descriptions are invariably drawn from memory, in his Chronicles of the Canongate, describes the dressing-room of Mrs. Bethune Balliol as exhibiting a superb mirror framed in silver filigree-work, a beautiful toilet, the cover of which was of Flanders lace.

[1203]

Heart of Midlothian.

[1204]

Statistical Account of Scotland. Sir John Sinclair. Edinburgh, 1792. Vol. ii., 198.

[1205]

Edinburgh Amusement.

[1206]

1755. Premium £2 offered. "For the whitest, best, and finest lace, commonly called Hamilton lace, and of the best pattern, not under two yards in length and not under three inches in breadth."

[1207]

The Edinburgh Society did not confine their rewards to Hamilton lace; imitation of Dresden, catgut lace, gold, silver, and even livery lace, each met with its due reward.

1758. For imitation of lace done on catgut, for ruffles, a gold medal to Miss Anne Cant, Edinburgh.

For a piece of livery lace done to perfection to J. Bowie, 2 guineas.

To W. Bowie for a piece of gold and silver lace, 2 guineas.

[1208]

1769. Pennant, in his Tour, mentions among the manufactures of Scotland thread laces at Leith, Hamilton and Dalkeith.

[1209]

In 1762, Dec. 9, a schoolmistress in Dundee, among thirty-one accomplishments in which she professes to instruct her pupils, such as "waxwork, boning fowls without cutting the back," etc., enumerates, No. 21, "True point or tape lace," as well as "washing Flanders lace and point."

Again, in 1764, Mr. and Mrs. Mitchell advertise in their boarding-school "lacework and the washing of blonde laces; the pupils' own laces washed and got up at home. Terms £24."

At Miss Glen's boarding-school in the Trunk Close, 1768, young ladies are taught "white and coloured seam and washing of lace"—gratis.

These lady-teachers were not appointed in Scotland without giving due proofs of their capacity. In 1758 the magistrates and council of Aberdeen, being unanimous as to the "strict morality, Dresden work, modesty, and catgut lace-making," etc., of Miss Betsey Forbes, elected her to the office of schoolmistress of the city.

In The Cottagers of Glenburnie a lady, Mrs. Mason, tells a long story of the young laird having torn a suit of lace she was busied in getting up.

[1210]

Edinburgh Advertiser.

[1211]

1774. "Several punds of badly-spun yarn was burnt by the stamp master in Montrose." This announcement constantly occurs.

[1212]

About this period a Mr. Brotherton, of Leith, seems to have made a discovery which was but a prelude to the bobbin net. It is thus described in the Weekly Magazine of 1772:—"A new invention has lately been discovered by Mr. Brotherton, in Leith, for working black silk lace or white thread lace on a loom, to imitate any pattern whatever, and the lace done in this way looks fully as well as if sewed, and comes much cheaper. It is done any breadth, from three inches to three-quarters of a yard wide."

[1213]

In 1775 Dallas, Barclay & Co., advertise a selling off of fine point, Brussels thread, blond, and black laces of all kinds, silver double edged lace, etc.—Edinburgh Advertiser.

1775. "Black blonde and thread laces, catguts of all sorts, just arrived from the India House in London in the Canongate."—Caledonian Mercury.

"Fashions for January; dresses trimmed with Brussels point or Mignonette."—Ibid. Same year.

[1214]

"Madame Puteau carries on a lace manufacture after the manner of Mechlin and Brussels. She had lately twenty-two apprentices from the Glasgow Hospital.... Mrs. Puteau has as much merit in this branch as has her husband in the making of fine thread. This he manufactures of such a fineness as to be valued at £10 the pound weight."—Essays on the Trade, Commerce, Manufactures, Fisheries, etc., of Scotland. David Loch. 1778.

[1215]

"If you look at the wardrobes of your grandmother, you will perceive what revolutions have happened in taste of mankind for laces and other fineries of that sort. How many suits of this kind do you meet with that cost amazing sums, which are now, and have long since been, entirely useless. In our own day did we not see that in one year Brussels laces are most in fashion and purchased at any price, while the next perhaps they are entirely laid aside, and French or other thread laces, or fine sewings, the names of which I know not, highly prized."—Observations on the National Industry of Scotland. Anderson. 1778.

[1216]

Lace-making at Hamilton is now a thing of the past, replaced in the nineteenth century by a tambour network for veils, scarfs and flounces.

[1217]

Essay on the Dress of the Early Irish. J. C. Walker. 1788.

[1218]

The Image of Irelande, by Jhon Derricke. 1578.

[1219]

In 1562. See Camden. Hist. Eliz.

[1220]

Henry VIII. 1537. Against Irish fashions. Not "to weare any shirt, smock, kerchor, bendel, neckerchour, mocket, or linen cappe colored or dyed with saffron," and not to use more than seven yards of linen in their shirts or smocks.

[1221]

4 Edw. IV., Harl MSS. No. 1419. b.-g. 494.

[1222]

That lace ruffs soon appeared in Ireland may be proved by the effigy on a tomb still extant in the Abbey of Clonard, in which the Dillon arms are conspicuous, and also by paintings of the St. Lawrence family, circ. 1511, preserved at Howth Castle.

In the portrait at Muckruss of the Countess of Desmond she is represented with a lace collar. It was taken, as stated at the back of the portrait, "as she appeared at the court of King James, 1614, and in ye 140th year of her age." Thither she went to endeavour to reverse the attainder of her house.

[1223]

At the end of the last century there lived at Creaden, near Waterford, a lady of the name of Power, lineal descendant of the kings of Munster, and called the Queen of Creaden. She affected the dress of the ancient Irish. The border of her coif was of the finest Irish-made Brussels lace; her jacket of the finest brown cloth trimmed with gold lace; her petticoat of the finest scarlet cloth bordered with a row of broad gold lace; all her dress was of Irish manufacture.

[1224]

Gentleman's and Citizen's Almanack, by G. Watson. Dublin, 1757.

[1225]

"The freedom of the city of Dublin was also conferred upon her, presented in due form in a silver box as a mark of esteem for her great charities and constant care of the Foundling children in the city workhouse."—Dublin Freeman's Journal, July 30th, 1765.

[1226]

Gentleman's and Citizen's Almanack, by Samuel Watson. 1773.

[1227]

"The Lady Arabella Denny died 1792, aged 85; she was second daughter of Thomas Fitzmaurice, Earl of Kerry. The Irish Academy, in acknowledgment of her patriotic exertions, offered a prize of 100 guineas for the best monody on her death. It was gained by John Macaulay, Esq."—Dublin Freeman's Journal, July 20th, 1766.

[1228]

Wakefield writes in 1812: "Lace is not manufactured to a large extent in Ireland. I saw some poor children who were taught weaving by the daughters of a clergyman, and Mr. Tighe mentions a school in Kilkenny where twelve girls were instructed in the art. At Abbey-leix there is a lace manufacture, but the quantity made is not of any importance."—Account of Ireland. Statistical and Political. Edw. Wakefield. 1812.

[1229]

Pall Mall Gazette, May 8th, 1897.

[1230]

Walker was a man of literary and artistic tastes, and educated for the Church, but, marrying the daughter of a lace-manufacturer, he set up in that business in Essex, working for the London wholesale trade. He removed next to Limerick, where he continued till 1841, when he sold the business, but his successor becoming bankrupt, he never received the purchase money, and died 1842, his ingenuity and industry ill-rewarded. In some work (we have lost the reference) it is stated that "Coggeshall, in Essex, made a tambour lace, a sort of medium between lace and embroidery." Could this be Walker's manufacture?

[1231]

In 1855 the number of workers employed numbered 1,500. In 1869 there were less than 500. In 1869 Mrs. Palliser writes of the tambour lace industry: "The existing depression of the trade has been partly caused by the emigration of girls to America and the colonies, while glove-making and army clothing employ the rest; and indeed the manufacture aiming only at cheapness had produced a lace of inferior quality, without either novelty or beauty of design, from which cause Limerick lace has fallen into disrepute."

[1232]

No account of Limerick lace would be complete which does not make some reference to the work of the Sisters of Mercy at Kinsale, Co. Cork, where so much is now being done to revive those industries which were originally started with the object of coping with the famine of 1846. This revival is largely due to Mr. A. S. Cole, who originally suggested the establishment of an art class in connection with South Kensington, with Mr. Brennar, of the Cork School of Art, as its master. The studio is in connection with the workroom, which secures constant touch between the designing, alteration, and adaptation of patterns and their execution. (Pall Mall Gazette, May 8th, 1897.)

[1233]

Various schools have been established throughout Ireland. Lady de Vere taught the mistress of a school on her own demesne at Curragh, Co. Limerick, the art of making application flowers, giving her own Brussels lace as patterns. The work was so good as soon to command a high price, and the late Queen of the Belgians actually purchased a dress of it at Harding's, and took it back with her to Brussels, The fabric is known by the name of "Irish" or "Curragh point."

The school set up at Belfast by the late Jane Clarke exhibited in 1851 beautiful imitations of the old Spanish and Italian points; amongst others a specimen of the fine raised Venetian point, which can scarcely be distinguished from the original. It is now in the Vict. and Albert Museum (1869).

[1234]

From the tradition that a Jesuit procured the first Venetian lace pattern used in Ireland.

[1235]

It was in the famine period that the Rector of Headford, Co. Galway, brought about a revival of the pillow lace, which was known to a few women in the county—taught, according to the tradition, by a soldier from foreign parts at some unknown date. This work is now reviving, thanks to the energetic care of Mrs. Dawson.

[1236]

Mr. A. S. Cole gives the following classification of Irish laces:—

There are seven sorts of Irish lace.

1. Flat needle-point lace.

2. Raised needle-point lace.

3. Embroidery on net, either darning or chain-stitch.

4. Cut cambric or linen work in the style of guipure or appliqué lace.

5. Drawn thread-work in the style of Reticella, and Italian cut points.

6. Pillow lace in imitation of Devon lace.

7. Crochet.

[1237]

History of Machine-Wrought Hosiery and Lace Manufacture. W. Felkin. London, 1867.

[1238]

See Germany.

[1239]

An open stitch on stockings, called the "Derby rib," had been invented by Jedediah Strutt, in 1758.

[1240]

By Rev. William Lee, of Calverton (Nottinghamshire). The romantic story is well known; but whether actuated, as usually stated, by pique at the absorbing attention paid to her knitting by a lady, when he was urging his suit—or, as others more amiably affirm, by a desire to lighten the labour of his wife, who was obliged to contribute to their joint support by knitting stockings—certain it is that it was he who first conceived the idea of the stocking-frame, and completed it about 1589. His invention met with no support from Queen Elizabeth, so Lee went to France, where he was well received by Henry IV.; but the same year Henry was assassinated, and the Regent withdrawing her protection, Lee died of grief and disappointment. The arms of the Framework Knitters' Company (Fig. 162) are a stocking-frame, having for supporters William Lee in full canonicals and a female holding in her hand thread and a knitting-needle. After Lee's death his brother returned to England, where Lee's invention was then appreciated. Stocking-making became the fashion, everyone tried, it, and people had their portraits taken with gold and silver needles suspended round their necks.

[1241]

Vandyke had also appended the chain to his stocking-frame, and the zigzags formed by the ribs of his stockings were called "Vandyke," hence the term now generally applied to all indented edges.

[1242]

Mechlin net was disused in 1819 from its too great elasticity.

[1243]

The "bobbins" on which the thread is wound for the weft consist of two circular copper plates riveted together, and fixed upon a small carriage or frame which moves backwards and forwards like a weaver's shuttle.

[1244]

The Old Loughboro' employed sixty movements to form one mesh—a result now obtained by twelve. It produced 1,000 meshes a minute—then thought a wonderful achievement, as by the pillow only five or six can be obtained. A good circular machine now produces 30,000 in the same time.

The quality of bobbin net depends upon the smallness of the meshes, their equality in size, and the regularity of the hexagons.

[1245]

Bobbin net is measured by the "rack," which consists of 240 meshes. This mode of counting was adopted to avoid the frequent disagreements about measure which arose between the master and the workmen in consequence of the elasticity of the net. The exchange of linen to cotton thread was the source of great regret to the Roman Catholic clergy, who by ecclesiastical law can only wear albs of flax.

[1246]

This association was formed by Ludlam, or General Ludd, as he was called, a stocking-frame worker at Nottingham in 1811, when prices had fallen. The Luddites, their faces covered with a black veil, armed with swords and pistols, paraded the streets at night, entered the workshops, and broke the machines with hammers. A thousand machines were thus destroyed. Soon the net-workers joined them and made a similar destruction of the bobbin net machines. Although many were punished, it was only with the return of work that the society disappeared in 1817.

[1247]

Heathcoat represented Tiverton from 1834 to 1859, colleague of Lord Palmerston.

Steam power was first introduced by Mr. J. Lindley in 1815-16, but did not come into active operation till 1820; it became general 1822-23.

[1248]

McCulloch.

[1249]

The most extraordinary changes took place in the price of the finished articles. Lace which was sold by Heathcoat for 5 guineas a yard soon after the taking out of his patent can now be equalled at eighteenpence a yard; quillings, as made by a newly-constructed machine in 1810, and sold at 4s. 6d., can now be equalled and excelled at 1½d. a yard; while a certain width of net which brought £17 per piece 20 years ago is now sold for 7s. (1843). Progressive value of a square yard of plain cotton bobbin net:

£ s. s. d.
1809 5 0 1830 2 0
1813 2 0 1833 1 4
1815 1 10 1836 0 10
1818 1 0 1842 0 6
1821 0 12 1850 0 4
1824 0 8 1856 0 3
1827 0 4 1862 0 3

Histoire du Tulle et des Dentelles mécaniques en Angleterre et en France, par S. Ferguson fils. Paris, 1862.

"Bobbin net and lace are cleaned from the loose fibres of the cotton by the ingenious process of gassing, as it is called, invented by the late Mr. Samuel Hall, of Nottingham. A flame of gas is drawn through the lace by means of a vacuum above. The sheet of lace passes to the flame opaque and obscured by loose fibre, and issues from it bright and clear, not to be distinguished from lace made of the purest linen thread, and perfectly uninjured by the flame."—Journal of the Society of Arts. Jan., 1864.

[1250]

In 1826 Mr. Huskisson's reduction of the duty on French tulle caused so much distress in Leicester and Nottingham, that ladies were desired to wear only English tulle at court; and in 1831 Queen Adelaide appeared at one of her balls in a dress of English silk net.

[1251]

John Hindres, in 1656, first established a stocking-frame in France.

[1252]

The net produced was called "Tulle simple et double de Lyon et de Vienne." The net was single loops, hence the name of "single press," given to these primitive frames.

[1253]

In 1801 George Armitage took a "point net" machine to Antwerp, and made several after the same model, thus introducing the manufacture into Belgium. He next went to Paris, but the wholesale contraband trade of Hayne left him no hope of success. He afterwards went to Prussia to set up net and stocking machines. At the age of eighty-two he started for Australia, where he died, in 1857, aged eighty-nine.

[1254]

The great difficulty encountered by the French manufacturers consisted in the cotton. France did not furnish cotton higher than No. 70; the English ranges from 160 to 200. The prohibition of English cotton obliged them to obtain it by smuggling until 1834, when it was admitted on paying a duty. Now they make their own, and are able to rival Nottingham in the prices of their productions. A great number of Nottingham lace-makers have emigrated to Calais.

[1255]

The Caen blond first suggested the idea.

[1256]

The first net frame was set up at Brussels in 1801. Others followed at Termonde, 1817; Ghent, 1828; Sainte Fosse, etc.

[1257]

D. Wyatt.

[1258]

Mr. Ferguson, the inventor of the bullet-hole, square net (tulle carré), and wire-ground (point de champ ou de Paris), had transferred his manufacture, in 1838, from Nottingham to Cambrai, where, in partnership with M. Jourdan, he made the "dentelle de Cambrai," and in 1852 the "lama" lace, which differs from the Cambrai inasmuch as the weft (trame) is made of mohair instead of silk. Mr. Ferguson next established himself at Amiens, where he brought out the Yak, another mixed lace.

[1259]

The first patents were:—

1836. Hind and Draper took out one in France, and 1837 in England.

1838. Ferguson takes a patent at Cambrai under the name of his partner Jourdan.

1839. Crofton.

1841. Houston and Deverill, for the application of the Jacquard to the Leaver machine. The great manufactures of Nottingham and Calais are made on the Leaver Jacquard frame.

The first patterned net was produced, 1780, by E. Frost, the embroidery made by hand.

[1260]

Cantor Lectures on the Art of Lace-Making. A. S. Cole. 1880.

[1261]

"The machines now in use are the Circular, Leaver, Transverse Warp and Pusher. Out of 3,552 machines computed to be in England in 1862 2,448 were at Nottingham."—International Exhibition, Juror's Report.

[1262]

Daphne lagetta.

[1263]

He makes a paste of the plant which is the usual food of the caterpillar, and spreads it thinly over a stone or other flat substance; then with a camel's-hair pencil dipped in olive oil he draws upon the coating of paste the pattern he wishes the insects to leave open. The stone being placed in an inclined position, the caterpillars* are laid at the bottom, and the animals eat and spin their way up to the top, carefully avoiding every part touched by the oil, but devouring the rest of the paste.—Encyclopædia Britannica.

* Phalæna pandilla.

[1264]

Two interesting papers were published in the Gazette des Beaux Arts for 1863 and 1864, entitled, "Essai bibliographique sur les anciens dessins de dentelles, modèles de tapisseries, patrons de broderies et publiés le xvi. et le xvii. siècle," &c, by the Marquis Girolamo d'Addo, of Milan.

[1265]

Cambridge University Library.

[1266]

Paris, Bibliothèque Nat. Gravures, L. h. 13 d.*

[1267]

Bib. Nat. V. 1897.*—Genoa. Cav. Merli, 1528 (?).

[1268]

Paris, Bib. de l'Arsenal. 11,952.*