No further deduction shall be made when cloth is more than 15 inches narrower than the reed space, or when cloth is narrower than 18 inches. Fractions of an inch not to be recognized under this clause.

5. Reeds.—A 60 reed being taken as the standard, ¾ per cent. shall be deducted for every two ends or counts of reed from 60 to 50, but no deduction shall be made below 50. ¾ per cent. shall be added for every two ends or counts of reed from 60 to 68, 1 per cent. from 68 to 100; 1½ per cent. from 100 to 110; and 2 per cent. from 110 to 132. All additions or deductions under this clause to be added to or deducted from the price of the standard 60 reed.

6. Picks.—Low Picks.—An addition of 1 per cent. shall be made for each pick or fraction of a pick below 11, thus:—

and so on, adding 1 per cent. for each pick or fraction of a pick.

High Picks.—An addition of 1 per cent. shall be made for each pick whenever they exceed the following:—

In making additions for high picks, any fraction of a pick less than the half shall not have any allowance; exactly the half-pick shall have ½ per cent. added; and any fraction over the half-pick shall have 1 per cent. added.

7. Twist.—The standard being 28’s or finer, the following additions shall be made when coarser twist is woven in the following reeds:—

and so on at the same rate.

When twist is woven in coarser reeds no addition shall be made.

8. Weft.—Ordinary Pin Cops.—The standard being 31’s to 100’s, both inclusive, shall be reckoned equal. Above 100’s 1 per cent. shall be added for every 10 hanks or fraction thereof.

In lower numbers than 31’s the following additions shall be made:—

Large Cops.—When weft of the following counts is spun into large cops, so that there are not more than nineteen cops to the lb., the following additions shall be made in place of the allowance provided for pin cops in the preceding table:—

9. Four-stave Twills.—Low Picks.—In four-stave twills an addition of 1 per cent. for each pick or fraction thereof below the picks mentioned in the following table shall be made when using weft as follows:—

High Picks.—When using weft—

In making additions for high picks any fraction of a pick less than the half shall not have any allowance; exactly the half-pick shall have ½ per cent. added, and any fraction over the half shall have the full 1 per cent. added.

10. Splits.—The following additions shall be made for splits:—

Empty dents shall not be considered splits.

11. All the foregoing additions and deductions shall be made separately.

This list is subject to a deduction of 10 per cent.

For fancy cloths the CHORLEY LIST, 1886, is the one most commonly used. This is as follows:—

Double-Lift Jacquards.—To be paid the following over plain cloth prices:—

Brocades, damasks, and crammed stripes with three or more ends in a dent, to be paid for by the number of ends per inch.

Picks 18 to 30 per quarter inch, 1 per cent. per pick; from 30 to 40 picks, ¾ per cent.; all above 40 picks, ½ per cent. instead of 1 per cent.

Lace brocades, 5 per cent. extra.

Single-lift jacquards to be paid 10 per cent. about double-lift machines.

The above applies to Jacquards only.

Dobby and Tappet Looms (except Satins).—To be paid the following above plain cloth prices—

Up to and including—

Stripes and other cloths with three or more ends in a dent to be paid for by the number of ends per inch.

In single-shuttle checks, handkerchiefs, and all special classes of goods in which more than one pick is put in one shed, all lost picks shall be counted.

Plain handkerchiefs, 72 reeds and below, to be paid 5 per cent. extra.

Single-shuttle cord checks with more than two picks in one shed to be paid 2½ per cent. less.

Lace stripes and other special classes of goods shall be paid extra as per special arrangement to be agreed upon by Employers’ and Operatives’ Associations.

The following example will show the method of calculating the price to be paid for weaving under the Uniform List:—

From this must be deducted 10 per cent., as per agreement, which will give 28·5535 pence as the actual price to be paid for weaving this piece of cloth.

The following example includes the allowance for narrow cloth woven in broad looms:—

In making the additions and deductions it is important that they should be made in the above order.

The Cost of a Piece of Cloth.—Besides the cost of material and the weaving wage, the expenses of the manufacturer must be taken into account. When a manufacturer makes only one kind of cloth, his expenses will obviously not be so proportionately great as another manufacturer’s who only takes a single order of a particular make. The expenses also vary with the district and distance from the market, and with other circumstances.

A manufacturer knows from experience exactly what amount of expenses to allow in different classes of fabrics in his own case, and in quoting prices for plain or fancy cloths he usually includes under the term “expenses” all the items of cost from the carriage of the yarn to the delivery of the cloth, including winding, warping, sizing, waste, and other fixed expenses in the mill.

The expenses are usually calculated in proportion to the weaving wage, and a manufacturer quotes “double weaving” or “three times weaving,” according to the class of fabric in question.

The following example will illustrate the principle of estimating the cost of a piece.

Find the cost of a piece, 34 inches full, 75 yards s.s. (short stick), 19 × 18, 32’s/40’s. Twist at 7d. per lb., weft at 7½d. per lb.

Weaving 2s. Expenses equal to weaving.

The 34-inch cloth would stand, say, 36 inches in the reed. The 75-yards cloth, “short stick,” or 36 inches to the yard, will require, say, 78 yards of warp.

A cloth counting 19 × 18, nominal, is usually woven in a 68 or 70 reed, and the picks per inch will be about 66 or 67 actually.

Assuming that the cloth stands 36 inches in a 70 reed, and the picks per inch are 67, we get—

36 inches × 78 yards × 70 reed × 7d.840 × 32’s = 51.188d., cost of twist,

and

36 inches × 75 yards × 67 picks × 7½d.840 × 40’s = 40.38d., cost of weft.

The amount allowed for expenses in the preceding example is perhaps sufficient for most cloths woven on dobbies, but more is required for jacquard-woven fabrics.

If 11s. 7½d. is quoted for the above cloth, the price is said to be based on “double weaving.”

For jacquard fabrics the price is usually based on 2½ to 3 times weaving, and in special cases, such as new styles, an extra profit is put upon the 3-times weaving.

Sometimes the expenses are said to be 5 or 10 per cent. more than weaving. If the weaving wage were 2s. 6d., and the expenses 10 per cent. more than weaving, the expenses would be 2s. 9d.

Contraction.—The length of warp required to weave a piece of a given length will vary with the pattern or weave of the cloth, and depends also on the elasticity of the yarn and the counts of both warp and weft. Owing to this difference in the elasticity of various classes of yarns, and the variation in the elasticity of the same yarn at different degrees of tension, it is impossible to lay down rules for the calculation of the exact warp length for a given length of piece, or for the exact width in the reed for a required width of piece. The length of warp required can only be obtained with exactness from experience, especially in fancy cloths.

As previously stated, twofold yarns are more elastic than single; indeed, with some kinds of twofold American yarns, such as are used in velvets, the percentage of contraction becomes less with an increase in the number of picks, owing to the increase of tension upon the yarn, which causes it to stretch more.

Roughly, the amount of contraction to allow in the warp can be obtained by taking into account the counts of weft and the number of intersections which the warp makes with the weft. The thicker the counts of weft the more the warp will be bent out of a straight line, also with an increase in the number of picks the amount of take-up or contraction will increase. This does not vary in a regular manner, as the angle which the warp makes in bending over the weft changes with any variation in the picks. Furthermore, the greater the tension on the warp yarn the more it will stretch, and also the more it will compress the weft at the point of intersection.

A rough estimate only can therefore be made if there is no previous experience in the same class of goods to guide the manufacturer.

A method of roughly estimating the percentage of milling-up of the warp is to multiply the intersections of the warp per inch by a number found by experience to give the right result, and to divide this product by the counts of weft used.

For rather heavily picked cloths the multiplier 4 gives a fairly accurate result, and in cloths with a medium number of picks and medium counts the multiplier 3 will be used. In some classes of goods the multiplier requires to be 5; but when a correct multiplier is found for a certain class of goods, it will serve for changes in that class. The system is certainly not accurate in all cases, but it embraces roughly the different causes which alter the percentage of contraction or milling-up in the warp, and is therefore of some use in practice.

In a plain cloth the contraction is much more than in a satin, and the percentage is greater in heavily picked cloths than light ones.

In a plain cloth of, say, 120 picks per inch, 60’s twist, 70’s weft, the percentage of take-up will roughly be as follows:—

In a plain cloth the warp intersects every pick, and so the intersections per inch are the same as the ends per inch. In a “two and two” twill the warp intersects twice in four picks, and the intersections per inch will be one-half the picks.

In more medium cloths the multiplier 3 is used; as, for example:—

Find percentage of contraction in a piece of plain cloth woven with 60 picks per inch, 32’s twist, 40’s weft.

60 × 340’s counts = 4½ per cent.

In fancy cloths experience is the only guide as to the warp length required, but in striped cloths and similar fabrics woven from one beam the contraction of the whole will be that of the tightest weave in the pattern.

In a fabric in which there are only a few plain ends in the pattern, the other ends being loosely interwoven, it does not follow that the take-up will be as much as in a plain cloth, as the plain ends will compress the weft more at the point of intersection than could occur if all the ends were weaving plain.

Testing Yarn.—It often occurs that only a short length of yarn is available for being weighted when it is required to test it for the counts. If it is required to test the weft in a piece of grey cloth it is usual to take out of the cloth 120 yards, or one “lea.” This is one-seventh of a hank, and therefore if the weight of 120 yards is divided into 1,000 grains—the one-seventh part of a pound—the quotient will be the counts of the yarn. The reason of this will be obvious when it is remembered that if the weight of one hank is divided into 7000 grains, or 1 lb., the result is the number of hanks in 1 lb., or the counts.

The counts are based upon the number of hanks in 1 lb. avoirdupois, and as this weight is not suitable for weighing small quantities, it is necessary to weigh them in Troy weight. As nearly as possible 7000 grains Troy = 1 lb. avoirdupois.