An all-important question is dress. Automobilists are nowadays more careful in the choice of their attire, but there are still a goodly number who seem to imagine it is impossible to look anything but hideous when in an automobile. On a closed-in car, limousine or landaulette, any kind of attire is permissible as the conditions are precisely the same as being driven in a carriage, but with an open car neatness and comfort are essential. When racing, or when in countries where speed is not looked upon with such horror as in England—on the long, straight seemingly never-ending, military roads of France, one can travel at a speed that makes goggles or masks a necessity, but for motoring under ordinary conditions there is no reason why one should wear them. It might be borne in mind that I am writing this book for the woman who is desirous of being her own driver and owning her own car; yet perhaps my advice will be applicable to the whole sex. I average about 400 miles per week—in all conditions of weather—all sorts of cars and all sorts of places, and therefore speak from experience—in many instances dearly bought.

Now, as to ordinary garments, dress for the season of the year exactly as you would if you were not going motoring. I would advise shoes rather than boots as they give greater freedom to the ankles and do not tend to impede the circulation, as a fairly tightly laced or buttoned boot would do, but this is a matter of individual taste. In winter time it is advisable to wear high gaiters, have them specially made, almost up to the knee.

As regards a frock—the plain “tailor-made”

with a shirt blouse of linen, silk or “Viyella” is without doubt the most comfortable—and the wearer has the advantage, at the end of a days’ run, of appearing trim and neat. Under no circumstances wear lace or “fluffy” adjuncts to your toilette—if you do, you will regret them before you have driven half a dozen miles.

Regarding coats—there is nothing like a thick frieze, homespun, or tweed, lined with “Jaeger” or fur. The former has the advantage of being lighter in weight than the latter and is just as warm and much less expensive. In England in winter one can wear a coat of this description right up to the beginning of summer. For summer itself, the ideal coat is of thin cream serge. It retains its freshness and does not crease like alpaca, linen or silk. The serge looks, and feels, smart all the summer—the silk or alpaca, after its first hard day, begins to look creased and shabby.

Do not heed the cry “nothing like leather.” Leather coats do not wear out gracefully. At first they may be delightful, but when they have been caught in two or three showers they begin to have a hard, stiff feeling which is far from comfortable. I have, however, seen very pretty costumes, coats and skirts, made of thin glove kid, or suède, but these are luxuries, as they cost from twenty-five to thirty guineas each.

As to head-gear, there is no question: the round cap or close-fitting turban of fur are the most comfortable and suitable, though with the glass screen up it is possible to wear an ordinary hat, with a veil round it. However, if you go in for caps, see that they fit well—there is nothing more uncomfortable than the cap that does not fit. It is a good plan to have caps made to match your costumes. When fixing the cap, pin it securely, and over it put a crêpe-de-chine veil, of length a-plenty. These can be obtained from most of the leading drapers, and it is quite a simple matter to make them yourself with a length of crêpe or washing silk. Before tying the veil, twist the ends. This prevents the knot working loose and is very necessary, as the veil, in addition to protecting the hair, helps to keep the hat securely in place.

One of the most important articles of wear is a scarf, or muffler, for the neck—and the manner of wearing it is also important. Fold it, then wind round the throat, beginning at the front, bringing the ends round from the back, and fold over in front. See that the throat is covered closely, and not too loosely. Wearing this properly will save you all manner of colds, sore throats and kindred sufferings.

Regarding gloves—never wear woollen gloves, as wool slips on the smooth surface of the steering-wheel and prevents one getting a firm grip. Gloves made of good, soft kid, fur-lined, without a fastening, and made with just a thumb, are the ideal gloves for winter driving.

It is not advisable to wear rings. If you do not want to leave them at home, or in a hotel, but want to wear them when you are indoors, during your ride or tour take them off while on the car and stow them away. Rings, when you are driving yourself, hurt terribly, and also the stones are loosened. Bracelets and bangles are irritating unless secured by a sleeve or glove from working up and down.

Indispensable to the motoriste who is going to drive her own car is the overall. This should be made of butcher-blue or brown linen, to fasten at the back—the same shape as an artist’s overall. It should have long sleeves. You can always slip off your coat and put on the overall in a moment—and it is necessary if you have anything to do in the car. Remember it is better to get grease-spots on your washable overall than on your coat or other clothes.

While there are several little repairs that it would be impossible to remedy if wearing gloves, the majority of work on a car (filling tanks, &c. &c.) can be done just as well if one’s hands are protected by a pair of wash-leather gloves. You will find room for these gloves in the little drawer under the seat of the car.

This little drawer is the secret of the dainty motoriste. What you put in it depends upon your tastes, but the following articles are what I advise you to have in its recesses. A pair of clean gloves, an extra handkerchief, clean veil, powder-puff (unless you despise them), hair-pins and ordinary pins, a hand mirror—and

some chocolates are very soothing, sometimes!

It is also advisable to carry a tablet of “Antioyl” soap. If it has been necessary to use bare hands for a repair you will nearly always find some grease on your hands, and this it is impossible to remove with ordinary soap. Of course it is possible to remove it with a little petrol, but I have found that petrol roughens the skin and that the “Antioyl” soap is much better.

The mirror should be fairly large to be really useful, and it is better to have one with a handle to it. Just before starting take the glass out of the little drawer and put it into the little flap pocket of the car. You will find it useful to have it handy—not for strictly personal use, but to occasionally hold up to see what is behind you. Sometimes you will wonder if you heard a car behind you—and while the necessity or inclination to look round is rare, you can, with the mirror, see in a flash what is in the rear without losing your forward way, and without releasing your right-hand grip of the steering-wheel.

If you are going to drive alone in the highways and byways it might be advisable to carry a small revolver. I have an automatic “Colt,” and find it very easy to handle as there is practically no recoil—a great consideration to a woman. While I have never had occasion to use it on the road (though, I may add, I practise continually at a range to keep my eye and hand “in”) it is nevertheless a comfort to know that should the occasion arise I have the means of defending myself.

If you are driving alone a dog is great company. The majority of dogs like motors and soon get into the habit of curling up on the seat by your side, under your coat.

CHAPTER III

THE MECHANISM OF THE CAR

I am constantly asked by some astonished people, “Do you really understand all the horrid machinery of a motor, and could you mend it if it broke down?” but it really is not a very difficult matter. The details of the engine may sound complicated and may look “horrid,” but an engine is easily mastered. A few hours of proper diligence, provided you are determined to learn, and you know all that you have to know. Again, I must remind you that I am discussing the single-cylinder car, which is by far the simplest for a woman to drive and attend to alone.

I have made it a rule never to allow any one to drive my own little car—and this is a rule that every one will find useful. All cars have their individual idiosyncrasies, and if you alone drive, you get to understand every sound; but if you allow any one to drive you are ignorant of what strain the car has been put to. As a matter of fact, a strange hand on the wheel and levers seems to put the car out of tune.

Before starting out for a ride your first duty is to see that the petrol-tank is full. It is unpleasant to be stranded on the road, miles from anywhere, minus petrol. The petrol-tank is, in many instances, under the seat. Lift the cushions, unscrew the cap and peep in. If it is dark it will be necessary to hold a piece of stick in to see how much petrol there is, but when there is occasion to do this, be very careful that there is no dirt on the stick,

or a choked petrol-pipe or carburetter will result. The slightest atom of dirt in the petrol will cause trouble. If you are going for a very long run it is a wise plan to take an extra can with you. It is, perhaps, unnecessary for me to warn you not to take a light near the petrol-tank while it is being filled up. Many cars have been wrecked through carelessness in this direction. Remember it is not actually the petrol that catches alight, but the vapour that arises from it. If your petrol-tank runs dry there is no danger—the car will simply come to a standstill.

The chamber in which the petrol and air mix and vapourise is called the carburetter, from which the vapour is carried to the cylinder head by means of a pipe, and is there exploded by the tiny electric spark from the sparking-plug, the explosion forcing down the piston and causing the crank-shaft to revolve.

Having examined your petrol-supply, being sure to replace the screw quite tightly, your next duty is to see that the water-tank is full. This tank is situated behind the engine, close to the dash-board. Unscrew the top and if you cannot see without uncomfortably bending over take a twig or stick and poke it in, and the wet portion will tell you how much water there is; though on some cars there is, affixed to the screw tops of both the petrol-and water-tanks, a metal rod which shows the amount of petrol or water in the tank. When you are refilling the water-tank you can tell by the “overflow” when the tank is full—there is a special outlet, so as to prevent the surplus from flowing over the top of the engine. Be sure to screw the top of the tank on again.

The next for examination is the oil-tank. This supplies the oil to lubricate the engine and gears. There are several different types of lubricators, force or drip feed, according to the type of car. It is necessary to lift the bonnet to refill the oil-tank. The “bonnet” is the metal covering to the engine. When the bonnet is lifted, metal supports will be found each side to hold it up. It is important that you have plenty of oil, for it is the lubrication that keeps your machinery in working trim. Without oil your engine and

gears would overheat and probably “seize.” The lubricating oil is forced, by a small hand pump, to all the different parts of the engine and gears requiring it.

With the car illustrated, it is necessary to pump a charge of oil into the engine about every twenty miles. This is an easy matter and it is not necessary to stop the car to do it. Before starting out each day you should allow the “used” oil to run out of the base chamber. This is done by lifting a small rod you will find on the left-hand side of the commutator. If you pull this up it releases the oil, which you will see running out. When it is all out do not forget to press the rod into place again, as failure to do this would mean serious trouble, as the fresh oil, when pumped into the engine, would simply run right through on to the ground. After this stale oil has been released, two charges should be pumped into the engine before starting. This is done by turning the pointer on the pump handle to “Reservoir,” then pull up slowly, turn the pointer to “Moteur” and press gently down. To lubricate the gear, fill from “Reservoir” as before, turn the pointer to “Vitesse” and press down in the same manner.

Apart from filling the various grease-caps occasionally, on the steering, &c., and greasing the wheel bearings, this is all that is necessary in the way of lubrication. The wheels, however, only require greasing about every 400 miles.

Your next duty would be to test the brake. Get into the habit of doing this every time you go out. It is no trouble to run the car a few yards to ascertain whether the brakes grip or not. If all motorists, no matter how expert, were to spend a few moments in taking this precaution, there would undoubtedly be fewer accidents. We often read that “the steering-gear went wrong,” but I am right in saying that, in many cases, the accidents are caused by the failure of the brakes when applied suddenly on an emergency. The brakes may be in a satisfactory condition when you lock up the car after a day’s run, but when the car is stationary there is the slight possibility of a little oil dripping on to them during the night, rendering them practically useless. If there

is oil on the brakes, however, it can easily be burnt off by running the car a little way and applying the brakes several times—the friction will gradually burn it off. The brakes sometimes slacken and need adjustment—an easy operation. Types of brakes may vary slightly with different types of cars. On my single-cylinder car the brake is very simple. To adjust, you will find a small handle underneath the frame towards the back of the car, on the off-side. Half a turn one way or the other if the brake is too slack or too fierce usually suffices. It can be adjusted one way or the other in about a second or two.

We now come to the various levers and their different functions. There are six levers, the change-speed, or gear-lever, on the left-hand side of the steering-column, under the steering-wheel; the ignition-lever and the air-lever, both to be found under the steering-wheel on the right-hand side of the steering-column; the hand-throttle, underneath the steering-wheel; in centre of column, on a small ratchet, the hand-brake lever and the first-speed lever. In this chapter I shall only deal with the first four.

It is the gear-lever that sets the gear in motion—practically puts the “muscles” of your car into play. It is imperative that it be in neutral (or central) position when starting the engine, or when applying either the hand-or foot-brake. This gear-lever, when in neutral position, disconnects the engine and gear, thereby allowing the road wheels to be brought to a standstill. When first learning to drive there is a tendency to suddenly apply the brake without bringing the gear-lever into neutral position, consequently a great strain is put upon the entire mechanism, as rival forces are brought into play, viz., while the engine is pulling, and through the driving-shaft turning the gears and propelling the wheels, the action of the brake is to make the back wheels stationary. As an example, the shock on the mechanism in the event of this happening can be compared to taking a watch and banging it on the ground.

With regard to the other levers, always

be quite sure that the ignition (top) lever is retarded, and that the air-lever is in correct position. It is impossible to exactly give the correct position for these as it is a matter of adjustment and liable to slightly vary with different cars. However, when once you have found the correct position it is impossible to get it wrong.

The next thing to do is to switch on the electric current. The car carries a battery on the dash-board, where is also the coil. As it is possible to run 2000 or 3000 miles on one battery, the replacing is not an expensive item. The cost of a new battery is 15s. 9d. The switch is on the coil and the current is set in motion by moving the switch from “A” to “M.” Having done all these things you are ready to start up the engine, and after that, drive.

It has taken a long time to explain the preliminary things that you should do before starting off on a run, and the non-motoriste, and even perhaps the intending motoriste, will say, “If I have to do all those troublesome things it will take up all my time, so I think I had better have a chauffeur”; but let me assure you that while it has taken some little time to explain these things in the plainest possible language, it will take you but a few minutes to carry them out.

CHAPTER IV

HOW TO DRIVE

Starting one’s engine is not the nicest thing about motoring when a woman is acting as her own driver and mechanician, but with the little cars no strength is required; it is only the big cars that need a swelling of muscle. There is a great knack in starting an engine, but this, once overcome, ceases to be hard work.

In front of the car you will notice a handle. Push it inwards until you feel it fit into a notch, then pull it up sharply, releasing your hold of the handle the moment you feel you have pulled it over the resisting (compression) point. Unless starting a car fitted with magneto ignition, on no account press down the handle—always pull it upwards, smartly and sharply. If it is pressed down the possibility of a backfire is greater—and a broken arm may result. This, however, is not a common occurrence, and is one that is brought about entirely through carelessness on the part of the would-be driver.

If the car has not been used for some hours it will sometimes be necessary to turn the starting handle two or three times—speaking from my own experience, three times is the maximum; it will usually start on the second turn. Of course in the winter it will take two or three turns, as the petrol freezes and takes longer to vapourise.

The moment the engine is running you can get in the car and start driving. Hold the steering-wheel with both hands in the

manner and position in which it is most comfortable to yourself. Keep a firm hold of it all the time and do not get into the habit of driving with one hand on the wheel: use both except when it is necessary to use either for changing speed, &c. Advance the ignition-lever forward and give more air by pulling back the “air” lever. When you have tried the car once or twice you will easily be able to gauge the distance these various levers should be moved. Remember the faster the engine runs the more air she will take, though when climbing a hill it is necessary to drive on a richer mixture (less air, with the regular supply of petrol) and cut off the air inlet almost entirely.

You will soon understand the different sounds of the engine—and their prevention, or cure.

When the car is stationary (and the engine running) always endeavour to run it as quietly as possible. It is sometimes annoying to people to have the noise of an automobile outside their door and no good can accrue by allowing the engine to run on unchecked. Underneath the steering-wheel, on the steering-column you will notice the throttle-lever, mentioned in the preceding chapter. Its function is to regulate the mixture in the carburetter. When you wish the engine to run very quietly and slowly, you move this little lever from right to left. When starting to drive again do not omit releasing the throttle, otherwise the engine may stop owing to insufficiency of gas.

Your next move is to take off the side brake. You will find this lever on the right-hand side of the car. Now you are absolutely ready to start. Always remember that a car should receive careful treatment, so therefore do not attempt to move anything by jerking it roughly—take everything very quietly.

You will notice two pedals on the left and right respectively of the steering-column, on the floor. The left-hand pedal acts as a throttle (shutting off gas) in exactly the same manner as the hand-throttle explained above, that is, when it is pressed down half-way—and the throttling process acts according to the amount of pressure put upon the pedal.

If it is pressed down still further it acts as a brake. This foot-throttle and foot-brake are more frequently used than the hand-throttle and hand-brake.

The small pedal on the right-hand side of the steering-column is brought into service when first (or lowest) speed is required. Thus, to start the car you press down this pedal as far as it will go, at the same time pressing lightly on the throttle (left-hand pedal), and take hold of the change-speed (or gear) lever and push it as far forward as it will go, at the same time releasing the left-hand pedal and keeping down the one on the right. You are now travelling on first speed. You will soon tell when this speed has reached its maximum power as the engine will be running very fast. It will then be time to change to second speed. This is done by releasing the right-hand pedal, throttle slightly with the left foot and bring the gear-lever towards you as far as it will go, at the same time slowly lifting your foot off the throttle. You will now find the car moving much faster and will be able to tell, as in the former instance, when the maximum speed is obtained. When you hear the engine beginning to “race” (run very fast), slightly throttle again and push the gear-lever into third speed—away from you, the same position as for “first,” though, of course, in this instance it is unnecessary to touch the right-hand pedal, which, you must remember, is only used for lowest speed. You are now on third (or top) gear and will find that unless the country is very hilly you will usually be able to keep the car running on this gear for a long time, varying the speeds from 10 to 28 miles an hour by deftly manipulating the ignition, air and throttle.

Changing speed on the car illustrated is an easy task, and that is why I have taken the De Dion car as an object-lesson. With the majority of cars there is a deal of “arm work” necessary, and in many cases not a little strain, this strain very often counteracting the benefits otherwise derived from the driving.

In changing speed always remember to throttle slightly, whether in changing from first or second to top, or in slackening speed, from top to second or first.

Never change from first to top speed, or from top to first without using the intermediate speed. The first speed on these little cars is from zero to 9 miles an hour, the second from 9 to 18, and the top from 18 to 28. I should advise you to get thoroughly used to the steering while on second speed, and at first drive very slowly. Do not expect to be able to control the car in a few minutes. Take your time and get in sympathy with your motor as you would the horses you drive or ride. Gain confidence slowly. Once you have confidence in yourself the battle is nearly won. Bear in mind that when riding or driving a horse it is only partly under your control. As it has a brain and will of its own it can bolt if it wishes to—but with a motor-car you rely upon yourself alone—you are master (or should I say mistress?) of the situation.

When it is necessary to drive backwards, push forward the small lever you will find at the side, by the hand-brake, push the change-speed lever forward (same position as for top speed) and steer exactly the reverse way to what you would do if you were going forward. This will no doubt prove awkward at first, and will necessitate a little practice, but when once mastered you will find it equally easy to steer the car either in a backward or forward direction. When running on any speed, if you allow the car to gain impetus and then put the change-speed lever in neutral position, the car will travel on in the same manner as a free-wheel bicycle, the action of the gear being neutral temporarily disconnecting the engine and gear.

If you see an obstacle in the road do not go up to it at full speed and suddenly put on the brake. The sudden application of the brake will hasten the end of the life of your tyres—and if you are not driving on non-skid tyres a bad accident may be the result if the road is at all wet. Of course occasion may sometimes arise whereby it is absolutely necessary to apply the brakes very suddenly—for instance, if a car makes its appearance from a side turning that perhaps you had not noticed, or an individual or dog attempts to cross the road a few yards in front of your car—but in cases of this kind you must rely on your own judgment.

You will soon understand how far the car will run with a given impetus and learn to use the brakes gently and sparingly.

Never get into the habit of using only one brake. It is more convenient to use the foot-brake, but if you do not sometimes use the hand-brake, when an emergency arises you will find yourself looking for the hand-brake instead of your hand instinctively going out to it in the fraction of a second.

In travelling uphill run as far as possible at top speed—meanwhile listening to the throb of the engine. When the top speed drops to about the maximum speed of the second, it is time to change back to second, but do not allow the engine to run too slowly before changing, otherwise it will not “pick up” and it will be a great strain on it. If the hill is a very steep one it may be necessary to change to first. There is always a correct moment for changing speed, both on the level and on hills, but this is a thing that can only come with practice.

If you have a long decline to negotiate, turn the switch off so that the engine is not running, allowing the car to roll down on its own impetus, controlling with the brakes, but remember, on the car slowing down, after passing the foot of the hill, to put the top gear in and switch on again, otherwise the engine may stop.

If you are driving in a very hilly or mountainous country you must give the engine a charge of oil more frequently than every twenty miles on account of its having to be on low gear, when the engine runs much faster and is liable to get over-heated—and if it does become over-heated you will soon notice a nasty “knock”—regarding which I will explain in a later chapter, on “Troubles.”

CHAPTER V

TROUBLES—HOW TO AVOID AND TO MEND THEM

Your troubles with a car may be nil—they may be a-plenty. You may be at fault, and again, the trouble may simply be one of ordinary misfortune or due to the idiosyncrasies of your car: but to whatever it is due, learn quickly to mend matters and laugh at them rather than weep. I well remember the first time I started out alone without a chauffeur. Somehow or other the car stopped (cars in those days were not so reliable as they are to-day—and the one I had lent me had done good service). For several hours I could not make out what was the matter, wept bitter tears and was so down-hearted that it took me a day to get over it: but most of the little troubles that arise are easily overcome on a modern car, when once one understands how to locate them. Train your ear to distinguish the slightest sound foreign to the consistent running of the engine. A single misfire means that there is some little thing needing attention; but always remember to switch off the electric current before touching anything—if you do not you will get a shock.

There is only one trouble regarding which you are really justified in feeling angry—that is a punctured or burst tyre. It is possible for a woman to repair a tyre, but I am sure I am correct in saying that not one woman in a thousand would want to ruin her hands in this way. Nowadays there is a repairer in nearly every village, and the best plan is to drive very slowly on the rim to this nearest repair-shop. With a small, light, single-cylinder car it will do no harm, but if you drive too fast, or far, the inner tube may be damaged. However, it is advisable to carry a “Stepney” wheel. These wheels are really indispensable and should have the place of honour on a woman’s

car. This “Stepney” wheel is an ordinary wheel, fitted with flanges to fix on to the existing wheel, and carries a tyre already pumped up—and can be affixed to your car in less than ten minutes. No strength is required to put it in place.

In regard to tyres—there are several good makes, such as Dunlop, Continental, Michelin, and several others. The stock car you buy from the maker will probably be fitted with one of these makes, but will have plain or corrugated treads. As there is such a great danger through skidding it is advisable to pay a little extra and have non-skid tyres fitted. In addition to preventing the car turning round on a greasy road, being steel-studded they will obviate puncture to a great extent. I use them winter and summer, for although the country roads in summer are dry and the danger of sideslip very small, when you reach a town you will nearly always find the tramlines (if there are any) have been watered, and it is really in towns where the non-skid tyres are a necessity.

There are a dozen little things that may occur to you at any time, and which you can easily remedy yourself, but before starting on a lonely ride it would be well for you to practise the remedying of the troubles, in fact, give yourself lessons in them. As I have already stated, you may go almost a year without troubles of any kind; still, you should know all there is to know about them.

Sooted plug.—This is caused by the engine getting too much oil. If the plug is “sooted” it will appear to be very black and oily-looking. It is a matter of a minute to loosen the sparking-plug with a spanner, and replace it with a new one; but if you are not carrying a spare plug, and are not in a hurry for a few minutes, the dirt is easily washed off with a little petrol.

Faulty plug.—If the engine misfires it may either be owing to the above-mentioned trouble, or may be caused by the porcelain becoming cracked or loose in its seating. As this cannot be repaired a new plug is necessary.

Gap on sparking-plug badly adjusted.—If the engine is not pulling well it may be owing to the fact that the two tiny points across which the spark leaps are either too wide apart or are set too closely together. If you get a good spark with the points in a certain position it is a good plan to insert the blade of a small pen-knife before finally replacing the plug, making a mark on the knife where it was inserted. On a future occasion this will be found useful, as if the knife is again inserted between the points of a new plug and the points either opened or closed, to meet the marked portion of the blade, the correct adjustment will at once be arrived at.

To test battery.—It is necessary to do this periodically, as if the battery is not showing a sufficient number of ampères the car will run badly. The test is made with an ammeter (provision for which has been made in the list of spares), the positive points making contact with those corresponding on the battery, the ampèrage being registered on a small dial. It should always show four or over. When it gets below this point it is advisable to carry a spare battery, as a stop on the road through a battery giving out is annoying, and a battery cannot be procured at every repairer’s.

Empty petrol-tank.—If the car comes to a standstill after a few misfires, it may be caused through the petrol-supply being exhausted on account of the tank having sprung a leak or the petrol merely being used up. The former is a very unusual occurrence, rarely occurring on a car with the petrol-tank under the seat. Where the tank is placed at the back of the frame of the car it is often punctured by a sharp stone striking it. Always, if going any distance, carry a spare can of petrol and a funnel, and before filling the tank be quite sure that there is no dust in the funnel or on the top of the can, as the smallest quantity of dirt will choke your petrol or carburetter, and this takes a long time to remedy.

Choked petrol-pipe or carburetter.—You may possibly believe at first that this trouble is caused by the petrol running out, so look in the tank, and if it contains petrol you may be sure that the flow is checked in some way. “Agitate” the float of the carburetter and it will most likely be found that there is no petrol coming through, therefore there must be a stoppage between the tank and the

carburetter. At the bottom of the carburetter there is a little joint, connecting the carburetter with a small tube through which the petrol is carried. See first that the petrol-supply is turned off, then loosen the joint and take out the pipe, then turn on the petrol and see if it comes through as far as that. If it does, the trouble must be in the carburetter jet. It is a simple task to remove this with the carburetter jet spanner, and an ordinary hairpin would then remove every obstacle.

Water in carburetter.—This may sometimes cause the engine to run badly, and is not an unusual occurrence. On the top of the carburetter being removed the water will easily be noticed. It is heavier than petrol and the little drops of water in the petrol look like drops of lead. In order to guard against suspected water you can filter the petrol through a handkerchief laid in the funnel.

Sticking valves.—With the inlet valve this trouble may be caused by oil and dirt. If this is the case it can be taken out and washed in petrol and replaced. The car may not run as it should do on account of the inlet and exhaust valves being pitted and needing grinding in. To grind in use a little emery-powder and oil, and plenty of “elbow grease” until you succeed in eliminating all the little pits and making the surface quite smooth. (Be careful to clean off all traces of the emery after grinding.)

Platinum point and screw adjustment.—The platinum point on the trembler blade or screw occasionally gets worn uneven. When contact is made, if the adjustment is not correct, the point will get worn down on one side and the engine will probably develop a “knock” and you will not be getting the maximum horse-power out of it. It is a simple matter to smooth the points, but a delicate touch is necessary. The filing must be done with your finest file, and a very few touches are necessary. Should you not happen to have a very fine file with you, the points can be smoothed with emery-paper, but care should be exercised in its use.

Again let me warn you to have the electric current switched off before making any of these repairs or adjustments, and particularly before removing the trembler blade, screw or plug. When the trembler blade and screw are replaced they will require readjustment. When you think they are set at the proper point, switch on, and give the starting-handle a few turns as if to start the engine, at the same time hold down the inlet valve, by pressing down the small button on top of cylinder. While turning, watch the spark between the two points. If it is feeble the adjustment is not correct, the screw is either tight or too loose. After a few attempts you will be able to adjust very quickly and almost unerringly.

See that the points are kept free from oil.

Loose terminals.—The car may run badly on account of a loose terminal of the wires on the sparking-plug or battery. This is simply a matter of thoroughly tightening up the various little nuts with a spanner. It is a good plan to just look over these occasionally, for when the terminals once begin to work loose they will gradually get worse and you will probably have a stop on the road.

Irregular petrol-supply.—If the carburetter is getting too much or too little petrol, it should be remedied by readjusting the needle valve in the carburetter. When once it is properly set it will sometimes go for years without readjustment.

Punctured float.—I mention this trouble as I have personally experienced it, but it is very rare and may not occur in the whole life of a car. The float is a hollow cube, for the purpose of regulating the height of petrol in the carburetter. The float, if punctured, allows the petrol to enter, causing it to remain at the bottom of the carburetter, gradually taking in more petrol. The effect of this is that the float does not perform its office, as it becomes weighted with the petrol, and this holds open the petrol inlet, which overflows out of the carburetter.

I believe I have now enumerated all the troubles that you are likely to meet with, and which you can look after yourself, but because the list is long do not think for one moment that every time you go out in your little car you are going to experience them. You may drive for weeks, months, almost years, without