CHAPTER XIII.
VISIT TO CALCUTTA, AND WORK IN AMRITSAR.

It is time to set out on the march for Amritsar. Dr. Elmslie on this occasion travelled to the plains by the Baramula Pass. He was detained for some days at Dhanna, a little mountain village, on the journey, owing to the illness of a friend whom he overtook. While there he visited among the villagers, and enjoyed the comparative rest and leisure which he much needed after the hard work of the summer. Here he read Ruskin's "Ethics of the Dust." He always after associated that book with the grand mountain scenery by which he was surrounded, and with the sense of repose which followed that season of pressure. He writes to his mother:–

"October, 1867.–If you knew all that has befallen me during the past year,–the difficulties I have had to contend with in the prosecution of my work, my anxiety during the epidemic of cholera when I went daily to the city and spent hours among the sick and dying, you would say that from my heart there ought to flow a river of gratitude towards that gracious Father who has given me strength to bear up through it all. Without Christ one can do nothing, but with Him we can do all things. Scarcely a day passes without my seeing a reason for the manner in which God has trained me for His work. God is truly all wise in all His ways. I shall not give you special examples at present, but if spared to meet after a year or two, we shall compare our charts, and mark the goodness of our Heavenly Father to us in all the past.

"Ill that God blesses is our good,
And unblessed good is ill,
And all is right that seems most wrong
If it be His dear will."

"Peshawur, near the Kyber Pass, 19th November, 1867.–At the Annual Missionary Conference it was agreed that I should visit this part of the mission field, and report as to the desirability of planting a Medical Mission here. Accordingly my friend Wade and I left Amritsar on Wednesday last, reaching Peshawur on Saturday. I have greatly enjoyed my stay here, and am much interested in the operations of the missionaries which are carried on chiefly among the warlike Affghans. The language usually spoken is Pushtoo. I purpose, God willing, returning to Amritsar on the 21st, finishing some writing work which I have on hand, and afterwards setting out for Calcutta, in order to lay the whole state of affairs in Kashmir before the Committee of the C. M. S. there.

"Calcutta, 20th December, 1867.My ever dearest Mother,–Before you shall have received this letter another year must have begun its course. Let me with all a son's love wish you, my mother, and best and truest friend on earth, a very happy new year. May you this year get near to our dear Redeemer,–may you be able to realize His comforting presence,–may your faith in Him and in His great and marvellous work be strong,–may your will be made submissive to our loving Father's will,–and may you really consider that to depart and be with Christ is far better than to remain here. These precious blessings I wish for myself as well as for you. I commit myself to God's keeping; may He graciously spare me to be a help and comfort to that dear mother who has done so much on my account, and who now loves me as no earthly being can. May I be spared to labour for Christ in poor unhappy Kashmir! May God's rich blessing rest on my work. May He hear our prayers for the political and spiritual emancipation of that unhappy country. Oh that the spiritual darkness and tyranny and oppression which prevail in Kashmir were dispersed,–that God would raise Him up a people to praise Him there,–a people made free by the truth!

"I am sorry to tell you I have not been greatly encouraged by what I have seen and heard since I came to Calcutta. Kashmir is far removed from the head-quarters of the Indian Government, and few or none seem to care much about that poor oppressed people. But we will give God no rest from our prayers until He in His mercy and grace take pity on that deplorable valley....

"I feel brimful of health again; very different from my state during the cholera in Kashmir last season. Oh how very good God was to me during that trying crisis. I shall never forget it,–never cease to be grateful to Him who did so much for me then.

"I purpose, God willing, to leave this for the Punjaub next week.... Your ever loving and dutiful son, William."

On the same day (Calcutta, 20th December, 1867) he wrote to his much valued friend, Mr. Ritchie:–"Will you," he asks, "do a little commission for me? Mrs. –– my old lodging-house keeper, was so kind to me when I was under the cloud of adversity and trial, that I have never forgotten her kindness. She gave me a six months' credit when my exchequer was clean empty. Will you get the enclosed cheque for £5 cashed, and pay the money to her, saying that it is a small token from me of my gratitude to her for her kindness to me whilst a poor student in Edinburgh. May God bless her and hers." These were days of sore trial, and yet Elmslie never referred to them, but with thanksgiving. Again and again in these pages we find him praising God for his early discipline. In the same letter he says, "Many a time do I think of you, and the many happy days we spent together–the days of our college life–those were days full of happiness, seasoned with trial and difficulty. They were the very training we needed. We needed to have patience wrought in us–we needed to be braced up for the surmounting of no ordinary trials and difficulties, and our Father, in His wisdom and love, gave us the schooling which we required to fit us for the great battle of life."

Dr. Elmslie returned from Calcutta to Amritsar, and at once wrote to his beloved mother.

"Amritsar, 22d January, 1868.To his mother.–... I am once more in my old quarters, having arrived here from Calcutta two days ago. I have now before me your two letters, which I shall answer bit by bit. You cannot tell what joy it gives me to know that you approve of my having stayed among the suffering inhabitants of Srinagar during the terrible plague. You say you are living in hope that God may be pleased to spare us to meet. The fourth year of my absence from you has begun, and at the end of the fifth year, it is my intention to avail myself of the opportunity I shall then have to return home to see you....

"Alas for my poor friend B., I fear his genius was of the unsanctified kind, which brings little or no joy or peace to its possessor. To be happy is to seek, first, the kingdom of heaven.... This world is a great school: poor –– has very difficult lessons to learn in it; may God help him. I find all my past experience useful. Our lessons are sometimes very disagreeable, but only let God our heavenly Father be our teacher, and they will all prove profitable. How kind God's people are to you, dear mother. It is a great comfort to me to know that so many show you kindness. May God bless them for it. Now I must tell you something more about my visit to Calcutta. It was arranged by Mr. Stuart, Secretary of the Church Mission Society, that I should have the privilege of an interview with the Governor-General, Sir John Lawrence. His Excellency invited me to breakfast with him on the 2d. He received me very kindly, his private secretary read prayers, after which we went to breakfast. I was the only stranger present, and he spoke freely on the subject of Kashmir, and the frontiers generally. He asked me many questions, and appeared to take an interest in the mission, to which he has all along contributed. The Government now know the condition of Kashmir.... Pray much for Kashmir, dear mother. I am sure you will be glad to hear that Sir Donald M‛Leod, in his report of the cholera which raged in the Punjaub last summer, makes honourable mention of the names of those who did valuable service during the epidemic; the name of your son Willie is in the list! This is a very small matter to us, dearest mother. I hope we work from love to Jesus, and never for the praise of men. Still I value the praise of good men; the opinion of bad men I reckon as the dust in the balance,–valueless....

"I have re-opened my dispensary here.... Now may the Lord bless you, and keep you, and comfort you throughout this year.–Your ever loving son."

Again he writes to his mother from the same place:–

"6th Feb. 1868.My ever dear Mother,–I have but a few minutes to write to you to-day, but I cannot let the mail go without a line for you. I am thankful to say I am well, with the exception of a cold, which is now on the wane. The people are coming to me in ever-increasing numbers; there is a wonderfully attractive power in kindness, dearest mother, and God does enable me to be kind and gentle with those poor people. Oh that they only knew the true God and Jesus,–the loving, gentle One.

"I have just heard good news.... A gentleman of great ability and Christian character has been appointed as Resident in Kashmir this year. His name is the Hon. Mr. Roberts, C.B., Judicial Commissioner of the Punjaub. I hope the day of liberty for my poor groaning Kashmiris is near at hand; they are doubly enslaved; they need political as well as religious liberty. God helping me, I shall do my utmost to put them in possession of both. What a delicious pleasure to be helpful in breaking one link in the chains of the slave! Pray much and earnestly for the emancipation of Kashmir.

"May the rich blessing of God ever rest upon you, to comfort you now and to ripen you for glory.–Your ever loving and dutiful son, Willie."

A few days later he writes as follows to Colonel Lake:–

"Amritsar, 22d February, 1868.–You ask me to give you further information respecting the work of last season, and the time I have spent since I left Kashmir. If I remember rightly, my last letter to you was dated about July of last year, just at the time when cholera was at its acme in Srinagar. It raged furiously the whole of that month; and although the type of the epidemic was not of a very virulent nature, still great numbers were carried off. It was especially fatal among women and children. Towards the beginning of August, the virulence of the disease had decidedly abated, and by the end of that month, scarcely a case occurred in the whole city. It had entirely left the city by the 15th September. The epidemic, therefore, lasted from the 8th June till the 15th September, a duration of more than three months. It is very sad to have to state, that the local authorities, with unheard-of cruelty, did all in their power to prevent me visiting the poor, pestilence-stricken inhabitants of Srinagar. They had the effrontery to request the British Resident to prohibit my frequenting the city for the purpose of visiting the sick. This, he said, he would not do. I feel quite sure that, had the local Government acceded to my offer to co-operate with them in battling the common enemy, the mortality would have been less, with God's blessing on our efforts. But, as I said, they did everything in their power to prevent and frustrate my efforts to assist the poor people, who were left in the hands of the ignorant, cruel, and mercenary Hakims. The neglect, cruelty, and rapacity which I witnessed during that epidemic are inconceivable. As a specimen, I may mention this fact: When the cholera was at its worst, it was announced in the city, that His Highness the Maharajah had discovered an effectual cure for the disease. This cure consisted of a printed manthar or charm, which was to be repeated, and pasted above the doors of the houses. This charm, it was announced, was not only curative, but preventive also. Each copy cost four annas (sixpence), and was to be had at the Maharajah's post-office. I went and bought several copies. I have them in my possession now. Large numbers of the Hindoos bought them; but, poor people, they soon discovered their inefficiency. I could mention more things of a piece with this, but space forbids."

"Amritsar, March 28th, 1868.To his Mother.–I am now preparing for another campaign in Kashmir, and have closed the Dispensary in Amritsar to-day. I purpose going by the same route as last year. I send you a photograph of one of the passes which we shall have to cross.

"In Amritsar, the Medical Mission Dispensary was open from the 23d January till the 28th March, 1868, during which time five hundred and fifty-seven patients were treated. The mode of conducting the operations of the Dispensary was similar to that followed in Kashmir. One Mussulman and one Hindu were greatly roused by the preaching of the Gospel; may they have no rest till they find it in Jesus."

CHAPTER XIV.
FOURTH YEAR'S WORK IN KASHMIR.

The following short note from Dr. Elmslie to his mother forms a suitable introduction to another season's work in Kashmir:–

"Srinagar, Kashmir, 14th May 1868–.... I am once more in Kashmir, in my old house on the banks of the broad-bosomed Jhelum. I travelled from the Punjaub by the Rattan Pir,–many an extensive field of snow I had to cross, many a stiff climb to make. We had some interesting meetings with sick on the way, and now my dispensary is in full working order in Srinagar. The people are flocking to me. I have heard rumours of opposition, but as yet have not experienced it this year. The common people love me, and hear me gladly; it is a very sweet thing to be loved by the poor and needy. The demand for shawls is low just now, and the consequence is that there is much distress among the shawl makers. They are selling work at half its proper value, in order to save themselves from starving.

"To C. J. Rodgers, Esq.–My mental food on the journey was Boswell's Life of Johnson. It has given me many a good laugh, and much instruction. It is a delightful book. How severe the old lexicographer is on the Scotch! Never mind, we can bear it. All he says is sheer abuse, and will not harm us.

"To Mrs. Cleghorn.–I arrived here on the 1st instant, and have now my dispensary in vigorous working order. How I long to be allowed to settle here, and to carry on my work without these periodical breaks! I am like Noah's dove. The work greatly suffers by these frequent interruptions; as you can easily fancy. Will you make this a matter of prayer? I long for an hospital too; that is another desideratum for both the medical and the spiritual work. If you saw the shifts I have to make, you would be amazed and smile. But I firmly believe that there is a better day in store for poor Kashmir. I need not now tell you of my griefs and disappointments and discouragements; suffice it to say, I have all these. But should we expect to be different from our Divine Lord? It is enough for the disciple to be as his Lord. I count upon your prayers.

"One of the two converts of last season is reported to have died in Amritsar, shortly after his arrival there. They say he died declaring his firm faith in Jesus. The other convert must have left Amritsar before my return, for I was unable to find him."

"Journal, Sunday, May 10th.–Church in the morning. Many pretty things in the sermon, but little theology. I had my old friends the blind and lame for their service in the afternoon, and distributed alms among them. In the evening feasted on Conybeare and Howson's Life of St. Paul, taking notes of all that is most valuable in the book. Received letters from Dr. Bell, E. M. M. S., and from Brinckman; greatly tempted to open them."

Dr. Elmslie never opened his letters on Sabbath, fearing lest some of their contents should be of such a nature as might distract his mind from spiritual things; he often found good reason to confirm him in this practice.

"Journal.–Help me, O Father, in striving to do Thy will! Make my every motive pure! May love to Christ be the grand motive power within me! I think I have some genuine love to my precious Saviour, but it is not enough, alas! it is deplorably small; O increase it, Lord!"

To a friend he writes,–"I am sorry to hear you say you are cold. You must be in the shade. Come out into the sunshine. Coldness is a sign of diminished vitality, and if your spiritual vitality is lessened, then there must be some obstructing cause at work preventing the vitalizing sap from flowing out of the great Root into you, one of the branches. Make an examination, and may you detect the baneful cause, and have grace given you to remove it immediately."

"13th.–Had a large reception of sick in early morning. Resumed study of Kashmiri with my pundit. Dined with –– in the evening. I thank Thee, O God, for any measure of boldness Thou didst give me to speak out on several points.

"14th.–Began class with dressers and assistant for the study of Materia Medica and Chemistry. Two sepoys attended the reception for the sick to-day; they were importunate in imploring me to help them to get away, for out of their nominal wage of six chilkies a month, they never receive more than three. Saw a lovely fire-fly this evening, a rare thing here.

"18th.–Number of patients very large to-day. Several operations. Lambardar of Islamabad present, from whom I removed a cancerous tumour in the neck two years ago; no appearance of return of cancer. Taught my assistants and studied Kashmiri as usual. I am told that Nasir Shah has prohibited the people from attending the Medical Mission Dispensary. If a woman go, she is to be divorced from her husband; if a man go, he is to be divorced from his wife. He is the leading Mussulman judge of the city, and is spreading reports that the Doctor Sahib makes his medicines of swine's flesh and blood. Before a marriage is celebrated the officiating priest reads a proclamation that if either man or woman go to the Doctor Sahib, there will be a divorce!

"19th.–A poor sepoy came to the dispensary some days ago complaining of severe pain; on examination, it was found that he is suffering from a large abdominal aneurism. He told me he had been ordered off to Gilghil. I wrote a short certificate stating that he was utterly unfit for such a journey. He came to-day and told me he had shown his certificate to his Colonel, and that he had fined him a year's pay, ordering him to set out for Gilghil tomorrow; 3,000 sepoys have already gone.

"News from home not good; my mother is ill. Have written to ask the Committee to sanction my return home next cold season. If this is right, I ask God to grant it; if not for His glory, I sincerely trust that my request may fall to the ground.

"28th.–A large gathering of sick to-day. I feel nervous, and irritable, and restless. O God, give me strength and grace, let Thy blessing rest upon me in my work, or rather in Thy work, which Thou hast been pleased to entrust to my care.

"29th.–W. M., merchant, called on me to-day, to ask when the great Sahib was coming to Kashmir to dispense justice. He told me that there is no tariff of taxes, but that each official may charge what pleases him at the time, and according to the influence and tact which the merchant may have. On the Murree and Abbottabad roads the merchant is compelled to unpack his goods at each stage, and the officer on duty has power to make him pay anything he pleases. This man takes shawls and cloth from Kashmir to Persia, selling them there for money and precious stones, especially turquoises. He replied in answer to my question, as to what would make Kashmir prosperous, that a code of good laws, or a change in the administrators of those laws would be necessary. He added that if the Maharajah would reign in person and afford opportunities for the poor to make their wrongs known to himself, the state of the country would be very different; the great Mogul Emperors took an active part in the business of the State, and ever lent a ready ear to the complaints of the poor. Where fidelity and principle are low, it is absolutely necessary that the ruler of a State should exercise keen scrutiny over his subordinates. In the evening I had an interesting conversation with Sher Ali Khan, on one remarkable feature of Christianity, i.e., that it takes cognizance of the thoughts and intents of the heart of man–that it deals primarily with them.

"30th.–Went with my assistants to the Nasim Bagh, where there is a grove of most beautiful Chinar trees, planted by one of the Mogul Emperors. We visited the prison on the Dal lake, and saw some men boring a four pounder–they can make an eight pounder, but no larger. Saw men bruising grain by means of a grinding stone driven by water. I was told that there were no prisoners in jail at present, that the Maharajah had caused the prisoners' quarters to be pulled down. I ascertained that there were between two and three hundred prisoners within the prison boundaries, but the officials were afraid of their making complaints of the treatment which they receive from their keepers; it is said to be very cruel. The lake is covered with water-lilies just now.

"Sabbath, 31st.–One hundred and sixty-two patients today. One man told me that his brother had beaten a cow so that blood had been drawn. He was cast into prison, and previous to the arrival of the English, had been removed he knew not where.

"Received letters from my brother, from Acklom, and from Dr. Farquhar. It is very remarkable that my most welcome letters usually come on Sundays, as if to tempt me to open them. Have felt happy to-day, and had much of the spirit of prayer. My text for to-day–'He is faithful that promised.'"

"Srinagar, 6th May, 1868.My ever dear Mother, (After some advices and expressions of sorrow about her failing health, he writes): Those infirmities of age will not pass away–will rather increase. Happy thought it is that those very infirmities are but carriers to the shores of a better land, where there is full, perfect, and endless joy. It is this hope which gives resplendent glory to the sunset of the ransomed soul."

On the 9th of June 1868, he writes to Lieut. Acklom:–... "The opposition this year to my work in Kashmir is very much less than last. This is shown beyond a doubt, by our numbers. Last year up to this date we had three hundred and ten patients, this year during the same time the numbers on the roll are seven hundred and fifty-nine. The mission this year, so far as numbers go, is more prosperous than it has ever been. For this I give God hearty thanks. The devil seemed to make a gigantic effort to crush us, but thanks be to God, we still live and work. Your last letter was precious to me; how marvellous it is that we who are in ourselves impure, and unworthy, are nevertheless in the sight of God perfectly holy and worthy, on account of the perfect holiness and infinite worthiness of our adorable Divine Redeemer which are imputed to us. Christ is our righteousness, as well as our everything else. Are we not prone to forget this precious cheering Bible truth? Hence the feebleness and gloom of many of God's people. The more we identify ourselves with Christ, the holier, the happier, and the stronger we become, for He is our righteousness, He is our joy, He is our rock. The Christian needs to know the depravity, and the desperate wickedness of his own heart, but having known it somewhat, he requires to be ever looking unto Jesus in whom we and God are revealed. Look steadily to Jesus, dear Acklom, there sin is revealed, there love is revealed; there is no danger of your forgetting your sins and their deserts if you look to Jesus. Some say there is danger, but this is a great mistake, for Jesus is the price–the infinitely valuable price which the loving Father gave to atone for our sins, and to enable the Father, without doing violence to His attributes of justice and holiness, to pardon, justify, and save such sinful and unworthy creatures as we are. What beauty and harmony there are in the Gospel scheme as made known to us in the infallible word of God!"

To the same,–"Srinagar, 8th July, 1868.–I should say that the two surest signs of a man's being a true Christian, are growth and gladness–growth in the Christian life,–the Christian graces–growth manifest to the man's own consciousness, and manifest too to his fellow Christians; and gladness rooted and grounded on what Christ, God's own well beloved Son, has done for him, suffered for him in Gethsemane and Calvary, and is now doing for him at God's right hand in heaven. There is something wrong when a Christian is not a happy man. Considering everything he ought to be the happiest of men. For myself I know that whenever I have lost that serene and inexpressible feeling of a full and filling joy, it has been caused by some cloud of unbelief, a looking away from Jesus, a surrendering to the world or the devil, a forgetting of the grand work of life. The Christian's joy is not a boisterous joy, but is like the calm sunset peacefulness which pervades this fair valley in the 'gloamin.'"

"Srinagar, August, 1868.My dear Thomson,–I was grieved to learn that you had been compelled to leave home in search of health. Three lectures in one week, and then a ducking into the bargain! The old Martha spirit, Thomson–the bustle and the lots of service. O that we could mix the Martha and the Mary. What an excellent compound they do make. To influence the world we need to be full, and running over with faith and love. To be so we must often, Jesus-like, repair to the mountain side, or desert place, alone. It is often a great blessing for a Christian man to be laid aside for a little from the busy engrossing pursuits of this high-pressure life, which in these days we are forced to live. Even the Christian life is not exempt from this pernicious feature of our age. God did not stop your work; He only modified it for a season, and made praying your working. Doubtless the workers in prayer are most successful. I often wish I had half a dozen old, faithful, loving, lonely women, praying for me and my work. But though a visit to the desert may refresh, we must not stay there, for sinners now-a-days won't come after us as they went after John; and so I hope dear Mrs. Thomson and you are again in the pit digging for diamonds. I entirely agree with you in your remarks on the relative position which piety and cleverness should hold in the medical missionary character. Without any doubt, piety first, and then attainment. Nothing but the cable of love to our precious Saviour, will be able to keep us fast to our moorings in these stormy days. I have scarcely left time to speak about my own work. So far as numbers go, this is by far the most successful year of the Kashmir Medical Mission. We have treated nearly 2000 patients during the last two months. Opposition at present is asleep, only asleep and nothing more. It cheers me greatly to know that you remember me and Kashmir in your prayers."

"Srinagar, 24th August, 1868.My dear Acklom,–It is too bad of me to be so dilatory in writing to you, but the truth is, I have been in a sea of troubles. My native doctor I found out to be a great thief, and I gave him his leave immediately. This of course increased our work very greatly. He was also a 'din-raiser' and succeeded admirably. I fear he has completely spoiled one of my native dressers,–Thomas,–whose conduct this season has been far from satisfactory.... You complain of a cold heart! The fact is our hearts–all human hearts–are as fickle as April or the thermometer. It is well to remember that the connection between our body and our affections is very intimate, and very often extremely disadvantageous to the Christian. A heavy dinner, a sluggish liver, or constipated bowels, will frequently freeze our affections, or rather make them as flat as thunder does beer. But let us not brood over the coldness. Our union to our blessed Saviour, and our possession of eternal life through His merits, does not depend upon, or vary with our feelings and affections,–were it so, this would make salvation like Joseph's coat, of many colours. Remember Jesus' dying words, for they are very precious, 'It is finished.' What is finished? Man's salvation. It is sad to think that we sinners, for whom the glorious Jehovah gave up His only begotten Son, should have cold ungrateful hearts towards Him who gave so much for us. The place to warm our hearts is the cross."...

"Srinagar, 2d October, 1868.To Rev. Mr. Mallett.–Don't you think we are apt to forget that we have not yet finished our spiritual education? We are apt to forget that in all that befalls us, our heavenly Father is making everything subservient and conducive to our spiritual nourishment and growth in grace. What we need, you and I, M., is more of that spirit–that Christ-like spirit, which, looking lovingly and confidingly up into the Father's benign face, ever says, 'Father, not my will but Thine be done.' If there is matter for thankfulness on my part in your letter, there is in my circumstances much which ought to make you thankful when you compare your lot with mine. Here I am almost as lonely as John in Patmos. Without a tender loving wife to cheer me with her hearty sympathy. This great blessing you have, and doubtless you feel very grateful to God for the blessing. How expansive our capacity for happiness is. In all probability before you were married, you thought if you only had a wife you would be contented and happy. You got the wife, and now want something else. And doubtless if you got that something else, you would long for something more. Don't you think that this fact of our spiritual nature points to the strong probability of there being a future state? This is an argument apart from the Scriptures. This thought in passing."...

"Srinagar, 5th October, 1868.My dear Mother,–Long ere now you will have got my letter, in which I tell you that although the Church Missionary Society in Salisbury Square, London, have most generously granted me permission to visit home this cold season, instead of next winter, according to agreement, I have after much thought and prayer, decided on not going home till the close of next year, as was previously arranged.... I am busy collecting materials to make a Dictionary of the Kashmiri language, of which there is not one. I hope when I come home, to employ part of my time in having it published.... Then again, dearest mother, one or two natives are in a very promising religious condition. I should like to be with them a little longer before making a considerable break in my visits to the valley.... I feel greatly drawn to this unfortunate country and people. The power of sympathy and kind deeds has very greatly melted their prejudice, bigotry, and ill will, and gained for the precious Gospel a patient and dispassionate hearing. The people generally now consider me their friend, and it would do your old heart good, and lift it up in warm gratitude to God, to hear the poor people praying for blessings on the head of your dear Willie. This is all God's doing, for He alone has given me a heart willing and capable to sympathise with these poor people, and to help them in their distress. I know that my presence here has some influence for good on the heartless, bigoted, and tyrannical government which rules over this most beautiful country. Pray much for us, dearest mother."

A few days before closing the dispensary, Dr. Elmslie wrote a long letter to Mrs. Lake, from which the following passages are taken:–

"Srinagar, 12th October, 1868.–I fear medical missions are not likely soon to spread in the Punjaub, or, indeed, anywhere else. Men and money are so scarce. You will be sorry to learn that nothing has, as yet, been done with respect to the training of native medical missionaries. I refer to the Lahore Medical Missionary Training Institution. I think the friends of this most needful and feasible scheme are waiting to see the good people of the North-West carry out their intention of setting on foot such an Institution. I think this delay is a pity, because their success is not likely to benefit the Punjaub. They will have enough to do to supply home, not to speak of exporting. And I fear, even if the Institution of the North-West prove a success, that we in the Punjaub shall not be able to prevail upon our Punjaubi converts to go all the way to Agra or Allahabad for their medical education. Besides, in my opinion, this is altogether unnecessary, seeing we have a good Medical School in Lahore.

"You and Colonel Lake will be happy to learn that this year, so far as medicine and surgery are concerned, has been very successful,–indeed, the most successful year the mission has yet seen. From the 8th May last till the 12th October, to-day, a period of five months and four days, 4161 individual patients have received medical and surgical aid at the Mission Dispensary. All these persons have heard the gospel, more or less, and many of them have obtained books. Many of these people come very considerable distances. We have had several merchants from the interior of Asia as patients. Some of these have seen the Russians. But nearly the whole of the number are Kashmiris, living in the valley or on the surrounding mountains. Those people are much less bigoted than formerly. We can speak to them much more freely and plainly, without fear of offending them, and a very large number of the inhabitants of the valley, both high and low, now look upon us as their friends, and, in their difficulties and sorrows, come to us for advice and sympathy.

"As to decided converts, there is none this season. One family is in a very hopeful condition, as also my pundit. They are nothing more than hopeful. May God reveal Himself in Christ to them, and influence their hearts with love to Him, for what He has done for them.

"A little progress is being made in the valley. The first school established in Kashmir by the Maharajah has just been opened. Its history is the following. The father of the family of which I have already spoken, was particularly desirous that his two sons, two very fine lads, should learn a little English. He asked me if I would teach them. I said I had not time to do so, for my medical and other duties; but I would allow one of my assistants, who knew a little English, to teach his sons. One of the two lads has been very regular in his attendance, and has made some progress. A report of all this was carried to the Diwan, the Maharajah's representative in the valley. Thereafter, a vigorous effort was made to get the father to give up sending his son to the mission bungalow to learn English. The effort failed, however. The father, I must tell you, is a Pathan, and is not so much afraid of the Kashmir Government as indigenous Kashmiris generally are. The Maharajah, in due time, received a full account of all that was going on; and His Highness, after some time, gave orders for the opening of a school for the teaching of Arabic, and desired the Diwan to try to prevail upon Sher Ali, my Pathan friend, to desist from sending his sons to the Doctor Sahib to receive instruction in English. In this effort, I am happy to say, the Diwan has failed. The boys come daily to us. This class for Arabic, got up primarily to decoy Sher Ali's sons away from us, is the first Government school the valley has seen during the reign of Gulab Sing and his son, the present Maharajah. The class, I am told, is intended exclusively for the sons of those who may be called the nobility of Kashmir. It is a pity the language was not Persian, and the school intended for any who was willing to attend. This is trying to boil the kettle from above."

The dispensary was closed on the 19th October, and Dr. Elmslie and his assistants returned to Amritsar.

Shortly after his arrival in Amritsar, he had a pretty smart attack of fever, to which he thus refers.

"Amritsar, 22d December, 1868.My dear Mallett,–I would have written to you before this time, had I not been in the sick list for the last three weeks. I have had a very sharp blow of intermittent fever, which has extracted all the pith out of me, besides running off with a good many pounds of my flesh. However, I am mending rapidly now, and expect soon to be myself again–I mean as to strength. The less we are ourselves the better, dear Mallett. Oh, to be more Christ-like, to have more of His wise, humble, submissive, loving mind. The mind of Christ! What a treasure to have! May our heavenly Father graciously grant you and me more and more of it.... I have put off my visit home for another year. The parent Society (Church Missionary Society) were most gracious in granting me leave to go home this cold season. A whole year sooner than the time specified when I left England. How is God's work prospering with you? Dear Mallett, let me wish you and Mrs. Mallett a very happy Christmas and New Year. If the dear Saviour is present with you, then assuredly Christmas cannot but be happy. For if we have everything else, and want Jesus, then the season is no Christmas, but a worldly and sensual occasion. May the Master preside at His own feast, and make you His guests really happy."

CHAPTER XV.
WAYSIDE MINISTRIES AND WORK IN KASHMIR.

The work of Dr. Elmslie since he came to India, has been detailed so fully, that a brief notice of this his fifth year's labours may suffice. In Amritsar the dispensary was opened in the cold season as usual, and upwards of six hundred patients were treated, surgically and medically. When it was closed, he again betook himself to Srinagar to toil amongst his much loved Kashmiris.

"Srinagar, 7th May, 1869.My dearest Mother,–Just before departing from Lahore on the 14th April, I wrote a brief letter to you, telling you I was well and happy, and was to start for Kashmir for the fifth time. I am now, dearest mother, able to tell you that our heavenly Father has vouchsafed to me and the mission servants, a safe journey over those lofty mountains that raise their snow-covered heads so proudly up to heaven. Last year, or the year before, I gave you some particulars respecting this interesting route. You may remember that I mentioned that the road by which I have come to Kashmir this year, was the route followed by those splendid emperors who lived in Delhi as their capital, and ruled over nearly the whole of India. All along the route there are remains–ruins–of their serais or rest-houses, and right imperial those wayside inns must have been in the days of yore. But the glory hath departed, and the imagination has now to people them with emperors and their queens and their gorgeous retinues. You may remember too, that I told you formerly that we have to cross two mountain passes that lie in our way. The first one is called the Pass of the Ratan Pir, which is some seven thousand feet above the level of the sea, and is covered with the dark green pine and the beautiful rhododendron. The other pass is that of the Haji Pir, and is about seven thousand four hundred feet above the sea. This pass is neither so beautiful nor so easy to cross, for in ascending to it we had to make steps out of the snow that lay on its face. And then on reaching the ridge, mile upon mile of dazzling white snow lay before us. It is impossible to do justice to the view. It was one of surpassing grandeur, purifying and elevating the soul to that glorious and almighty God, who by the word of His power had called this beauty and grandeur into existence. One would think that the inhabitants of this lovely valley, and those grand lofty mountains would be purified, and have their devotional feelings raised to God their Creator. But sad to tell it is not so. The extensive, unsurpassed, and varied beauty and grandeur with which they are ever surrounded, falls upon them without effect, as if they had no more soul than the beasts that perish. If I remember rightly, I sent you a photograph of the snowy Haji Pir Pass. We reached Srinagar on the 30th April, having been a fortnight on the march, which, as has been my wont, I did on foot, walking every inch of the way. On the march, at each halting place, we gave notice that we should see all the sick who should come to us, and prescribe for them. This news soon brought us an interesting group of patients with their friends, some of them as usual coming from great distances. The Gospel of life and love was then preached to those perishing ones. Some listened wonderingly, others listened unbelievingly and unaffectedly. But the message of life through Jesus Christ, God's own dear and well-beloved Son, was preached, and the seed of the Word may have fallen into the rifts of some rocky hearts, and may at some future time spring up and come to fruit to the praise and glory of God. My work, dearest mother, is very much that of a sower. I may never see much of the fruit of my labours. Blessed be God, He has vouchsafed to let me see some,–some among my own countrymen, and some among the heathen. An officer in the army, and one who is related to the highest authorities in India, has come all the way to Kashmir to see me, because he regards me as his spiritual father. God blessed to his soul a discussion which I had with a gentleman, one night at dinner, two years ago. What a glory it is to receive from God, to be the means, in the hands of the Holy Spirit, of leading a sin-laden soul to Jesus, the Divine burden-bearer. I tell you these things, dearest mother, to cheer and comfort you. After considerable delay and trouble, I got my dispensary into working order, and began operations yesterday. You will be happy to learn that the attendance yesterday was larger than it ever was before, on the first day of the season.–Your own loving, and dutiful son, Willie."

"Journal, 6th May.–To-day opened dispensary. I, and Qadir Bakhsh, and the two dressers met in the dispensary, and all kneeling down, implored the blessing of that God whose servants we are. I felt much affected, and had my heart greatly drawn out in prayer. I felt my joy and faith increased. After thus placing ourselves and the work in God's hands, we went to the tent pitched on the lawn behind the mission bungalow, and there were found sixteen patients with their friends assembled. Part of the Sermon on the Mount was read to the suffering and interesting little group, who were seated on the velvety grass; and briefly, simply, and practically explained to them. The quiet and the attention of the little company were marked. After the short address, a brief prayer was offered up for the Divine blessing, and this ended the religious exercises. The medical and surgical part of the proceedings then began. One of the patients present was the brother of the chief judge of the valley.

"10th May.–A large turn out of patients to-day. Began an hour earlier. Snow rapidly melting on the mountains. Have bread as good as English every day. Had greens to-day to dinner. No potatoes, because too dear. Air fragrant with the odour of the Iris. The Iris is generally found covering the graves of the Mussulmans–three kinds, the white, the purple, the yellow. I am greatly cheered by the remarkably unusual spirit of inquiry that prevails among the people, both Hindoos and Mussulmans. All day long some one is present, with the catechist, hearing him read and expound the Gospel, or discussing with him on the subject of religion. Never before have I seen such readiness to converse on religious subjects as this. May the Lord bring many to a saving knowledge of the truth as it is in Jesus.

"11th May.–A large turn out of patients. Numbers important, because more hear the Gospel. This afternoon there was a dense mist over the valley.

"15th May.–Heavy rain this morning, and in consequence, a small number of patients present. At Kashmiri the most of the day. The change in the people for the better is most remarkable. God be praised.

"16th May.–Heavy work this morning, from the large number of patients. Must take the women and the men on alternate days. The pundits are greatly at a loss to account for my annual visit to the valley. Other doctors, they say, came to Kashmir for one, or at most perhaps two years; they go away and are no more heard of, but the Daktar Sahib comes every year. This is wonderful. At worship in forenoon and evening, had my heart much drawn out in prayer.

"17th May.–Astonished the people twice to-day, by quoting two of their own proverbs correctly, in their own language, and appositely. I must push on with my study of the Kashmiri proverbs."

The following particulars are from Dr. E.'s last report:–

"It is greatly to be deplored that the Medical Mission, notwithstanding its charitable and beneficent character, still unavoidably labours under great difficulties, from want of permanent and suitable hospital and dispensary buildings.

"The patients who frequent the Medical Mission Dispensary generally belong to the lower and middle classes. But last season, two of the higher officials of the valley, who had been ill for some time, and had spent considerable sums of money on their native hakims, but were nothing bettered, at last applied in their helplessness to the Medical Mission Dispensary, and, after taking appropriate remedies for a time, were both restored to perfect health, and as no fees are taken from dispensary patients, they are held perpetual debtors to the mission.

"From the 6th May, when the dispensary was opened, till the 25th of October, 169 receptions for the sick were held, and 3,902 patients received surgical and medical treatment. The average daily attendance of new patients was therefore twenty-three, and as the number of individual visits paid during the season was 15,579, the average daily attendance of old and new patients was ninety-three. Each patient, on an average, visited the dispensary four times.

"In the evangelistic branch of the mission's operations, much precious seed was sown. God grant that it may not remain fruitless. In no former season were demands for copies of the Holy Scriptures, and other religious books, so numerous and importunate. The works of the Rev. Moulvie Imad ud din, of the Amritsar Mission, were in especial request. Two Mullahs or Mussulman priests, who had heard of his well-known work, the 'Hidaiyat ul Musulmin,' came to the dispensary from a distant part of the surrounding mountains to obtain a copy.

"The Sunday afternoon meetings with the beggars and incurably blind and lame of Srinagar were held regularly, as in former seasons. Every Sunday afternoon at one o'clock, from sixty to eighty of those unfortunates assembled on the lawn behind the mission bungalow, or near to the mission tents.

"Several Kashmiris were, as far as man could see, in a hopeful religious state; but the character of the people, and the government of the valley being what it is, great caution must be exercised in forming a judgment from appearances for a short time. However, two male adults, of those who had been in the habit of frequenting the mission during the season, declared themselves Christians, and quitted the valley in the month of November to go to the Punjaub, as it is impossible, under present circumstances, for a native Christian to remain in Kashmir during the winter months.

"Srinagar 28th June, 1869.Dear Mrs. Thomson,–Yours of the 1st April last reached me all safe, and received a hearty welcome. I hope the trip to Biarritz has completely established the doctor's health; but soldiers must not think much about health, but go and do what their captain commands, leaving health, and life, and all things in God's hands. It is very cheering to hear of recruits coming to fill up the gaps which are ever being made in the ranks. When will this cry cease?–only when the native Christian Church takes firm root in those lands whither Christian Europe and America are sending agents. What a pity it is that many of those western recruits appear desirous of perpetuating the present needy and feeble state of the Church in the East. Would that the natives of India, China, Africa, and the islands of the sea, were strong enough to carry on their Christian war, unaided from without. It is pleasing to know that the native ranks are being filled up with men of the right stamp–men of courage, faith, and holy zeal. You have, doubtless, heard long ago of Dr. Gray's death in Rajpootana. How brief his career! Was not his death lonely!–lonely as to man–but Jesus and the angels may have been in greater force for its human loneliness. How inscrutable are God's dealings with His people! The cry is for men, and when the men come, many of them are called hence before they have well begun their great work. Gideon did with his handful of men better than he would have done with his thousands. So does God. What a privilege it is to be among the number of God's chosen ones–God's picked men. May we be humble and thankful.

"I am again busy at work in this fairest spot of God's earth. After a very pleasant journey from Amritsar, over the Himalayas, I arrived here on the 30th April last, and began work a few days after. On the march to the valley, we had some interesting work–partly medical, and partly evangelistic. The mission is becoming so well known in these mountainous regions, that the poor people look out for our return in spring, as they do for that of the swallow. The people's knowledge of Christ, and the plan of salvation, is yearly growing. I trust there is at least a leavening process going on in these mountains–a sowing of seed–precious seed–which, when the fulness of time is come, will bear much fruit. The mission in the valley is gaining more and more influence, and is being frequented by ever-increasing numbers of sick. I am thankful that our numbers are increasing, because the more bodily sick that come to us, the more spiritually sick hear of the Balm of Gilead and the Great Physician. During last month, the number of individual patients was well on to a thousand. I have just been writing my report of last year's work, and I see that our numbers increased to 1085 over what they had been in the previous most successful season as to numbers. What a battle of faith and patience I have had to fight here, dear Mrs. Thomson. But it is delightful to fight, and to be like to win. There are signs of softening in the opposition to the mission, I am happy and thankful to say, but I cannot speak definitely of them yet. You will be happy to hear of another Kashmiri being brought to Jesus. Lately I heard of an old woman–the mother-in-law of one of the native catechists who have accompanied me to the valley–having, on her return to her distant village, after a visit to the medical mission in Srinagar, declared herself a Christian, and after some months having fallen asleep in Jesus. This is the first Kashmiri woman I have heard of to whom the Word heard in the medical mission has been blessed. Her old son-in-law, Qadir Bakhsh, who yearns over his fellow-countrymen, and longs and prays for their salvation unceasingly, is greatly delighted that his dear relative died in the faith of Jesus. I am writing this letter to you under a tent, on the shores of a beautiful lake, near the city of Srinagar. What is the reason of this, you will say. Well, I will tell you. Twenty days ago it began to rain very heavily in the valley, and this continued for twenty-six hours. The consequence was that the river–I believe the ancient Hydaspes–rose high, and overflowed its banks, and inundated the surrounding country. The Europeans, occupying the married quarters in the station here, were obliged to quit their bungalows, and seek for safety in their boats on the evening after the rain began to fall. As the medical mission bungalow was situated on a higher level, by dint of great exertions I was able, with assistance, to repel the advancing waters till the morning of the third day of the flood; but on they steadily came, and at last the embankment we had made gave way, and in rushed the waters like a flood. In a very short time my out-houses were washed away, and I and my servants had enough to do to get to a boat with a few necessary things. I am glad to say my house stood the angry assaults of the water, and at some risk we rescued all the mission property from it. The river rose fourteen feet above its ordinary level. The valley, as far as you could see, was one extensive lake, with its surface diversified with beautiful clumps of leafy trees. The sight was one long to be remembered for its great beauty. The loss sustained by the Maharajah and the cultivators of the soil, must be very considerable, as the first crop of the year was about mature when the rain came. The mission bungalow was greatly damaged by the water, but it has been repaired, and I hope to be able to return to it in a few days now. I have been carrying on my work here as well as I can under present adverse circumstances. I hope this calamity may turn out for the furtherance of the gospel in Kashmir.

"As to my coming home, it is still uncertain when I shall leave India. If it were not to see my dear mother, whose health has been very feeble for some months, I don't think I should take advantage of the opportunity which I shall have at the end of the year of visiting home, for I am becoming more and more interested in my work and the people, amongst whom God has seen fit to cast my lot. However, if I do come home, to see you and the doctor, and to tell each other how great things the Lord hath done for our souls, will not be the least of our pleasures."

The very day Dr. Elmslie penned these lines in Srinagar his mother, over and above her usual ailments, was seized with congestion of the lungs, which, acting on an enfeebled system, carried her in a few days to her grave.

As Mrs. Elmslie fills a prominent place in this Memoir, it would be unseemly to let her pass away without a parting word. Her influence over her son for good was unquestionably very great, and he loved and cherished her with the most intense affection. For such a mother it would have rejoiced us to record an "abundant entrance." But that pleasure is denied us. Continued bodily infirmity seems to have weakened her naturally strong intellect, and she inclined latterly to brood over her absent sons, rather than cultivate communion with a present Saviour, and this was not favourable to the life of God in her soul. Still, when she approached her end, there seemed a measure of sunshine on her path. The medical attendant said to her, "I am sure no message you can leave behind you for your sons will be so acceptable as the assurance that you die with a strong hope of a blessed resurrection, and that all is well with your soul." She replied, "Not a strong hope, but with a hope," and then she went on to quote several very appropriate promises out of the Word of God.

In due course the news of her death reached Dr. Elmslie, and, writing to his friend, Mr. Rodgers, he says (17th August 1869):–"You see, my dear Rodgers, that I am become one of the mourners. My best and dearest friend on earth is dead–my mother. You can more easily picture to yourself my intense grief than I can describe it to you. Since Sabbath last, I scarcely know what I have been about. I have been doing my work, but I have had no mind for it. I was looking forward with great pleasure to my going home to see my dear mother, and to gladden her aged heart with the sunshine of my presence and love. But God had different things in store for her and me." Poor Elmslie had not leisure to brood over his distresses, for at this very time the surgeon of the station took it into his head to run away from Srinagar, alleging, as his reason "for deserting his post, the unhealthiness of the station! This is extremely rich!" writes Dr. Elmslie. "Doctors, I thought, were specially for such places! The result of the doctor's cowardly desertion has been to increase my work very considerably, and that, too, much against my will."

Dr. Elmslie had for some time been giving his spare moments to a little work, about which he thus writes to the Rev. E. C. Stuart:–

"Srinagar, 24th September 1869.My dear Friend,–As I promised in my last letter to you, I despatched by post two days ago a translation in Kashmiri of Mr. Justice Campbell's list of words and phrases for testing the radical affinities of languages. Will you kindly look over it, and if you think it of any value, will you send it to the editor of the Asiatic Society's Journal. I have purposely made my translation full on one or two points–fuller, perhaps, than some may think necessary. Still, that is an error on the safe side. For example, I have given, under the head of phrases, several translations–some verbal translations–of the English with the Kashmiri government, and others where the English meaning is expressed according to the idiom, as well as the mere rules of Kashmiri grammar. I hope the little paper will be of some interest. Of this I am very sure, without any boasting, that it is the most correct thing that has been written on the language of this interesting people. The mistakes that have been made by those who have written on Kashmiri–and two or three persons have done so–are very amusing. One gentleman, for example, has confounded the verb 'to be' with the termination of the plural. He evidently did not see that his teacher gave him the verb 'to be' with the declension of the noun, to point out its, the noun's, gender and number. But enough on this head."