Just after the G. Signor followed the young P. Mustapha, very plain likewise, with two servants on horseback attending, on each side one; after followed several Bashaes and other great men, all in plain clothes. There was a Sermon there, and prayers (as is usual); and after 2½ houres all returned. The young prince with his father went to the Seraglio, and about Kindí (the 9th houre in the Turkish account of the day), he was circumcised by the Chirurgion above said (whose new Turkish name is Onufé), who had for his paines 10,000 zechines (about 6,200 lb. sterling), as he boasted to me; but I am confident it was much lesse. It was presented him from the Q. mother in a large silver bason. He was an Italian, ignorant enough, but bold and ingenious. As at other circumcisions (as is before hinted), many accompany the great man’s son, and take it as an honour, so here were severall 1,000es circumcised at this feast; an account see afterwards amongst the generall notions. I now will begin with the festivalls in honour of the circumcision, which began May 15th, they counting it the first day of the moon (from the Phases), whereas to us the day before was our new moon, which they reckoned the 29th, but in reality was the 28th, on which night the rising in a little thin cloud appear’d bigger then ordinary, and gave them the greatest pleasure and occasion of rejoicing that could be.
After these solemnityes were past, in the beginning of the next moone (June the 14th) began the solemnityes of the Mariage of the Mosaifs (the bridegroomes) house, of which in good order. First, then, you must know that going into the Seraglio here there are two buildings which meet at the great gate almost at right angles, before which lyes a delicate plain, wherein they had pitch’t these Tents so in a rank as to make up a third side, and inclose between the two former walls and the tents a large quadrangle, which they left open on the 4th side for people to come and be spectators. Here every night come the G. Signor and the Prince, the Sultana and ladyes, and all the court to their proper places to see the sights. The company never come together till about 2 o’clock after dinner; for, setting up and spending all the night in revellings, the forenoon went to recruit them in sleep. About Kindí (which is the 9th hour) were brought presents to the G. Sr. dayly; for all great men throughout his whole empire were compel’d to present him and the sultana: and many about the Court not giving so liberally as was expected, were forced to second presents; some were manzoold (turn’d out) for their niggardlinesse. It is commonly reported that the cost of all these sports, etc., come to 12,000 purses of money, whereas his presents come to at least 32,000 purses, each purse being 500 doll.; so he gain’d 20,000 purses, or 10,000,000 dollars, which, at 4s. 6d. the dollar, makes 2,250,000 lb. sterling. These presents were carried by publickly to the G. Sr. tent, and there the chief of those that brought them were vested by the G. Sr., as is said in our audience with the Vizier. When these presents did not come by there was continuall dancing or variety of sports, either before the G. Sr., Vizier, Sultana, etc., some or other, all the afternoon, of which by and by more particularly. About a full hour before sunset (sometimes sooner) were brought into the ring every day many, many young lads to be circumcised in honour of the G. Prince, or, rather, the honour was their own in being his companions; and every one has a pension as long as he lives of a certain number of aspers (I heard 3 named, but that is too little) per diem, and are call’d the Prince’s pensioners. This circumcision last 13 dayes, till the P. was cut. That night the G. Sr. and Sultana stay’d within to comfort him, yet we had the old sports before the G. Viz. and Testerdare,[334] etc. At the time abovesaid all the persons to be cut that day were brought round the ring, singing a Turkish song, being onely some words of the Al Koran, and rejoycing with musick and clapping of their hands; then they were brought to the tent, where they were cut publickly. I saw many 100es of them (there being about 2,000 in all the 13 nights) cut, and the Turkes would be so farre from hindring your seing, as they would make way for you. There were many of riper yeares, especially renegades that turn’d Turks. I saw an old man which they reported to be 53 yeares old, cut. The common way there of turning was (as I saw severall) to go before the G. Sr. and Vizier, and throw down their cap, or hold up their right hand or forefinger; then they were immediately led away by an officer (who stands by on purpose), and cut with the rest. I saw a Russe of about 20 yeares old, who, after he had been before the Vizier, came to the tent skipping and rejoicing excessively; yet, in cutting he frowned (as many of riper ages doe). One night we met a young lad, who askt us the way to the Vizier. Being a country boy, we askt him what he would with him. He told us his brother turn’d Turk, and he would goe find him, and be cut, too; and two dayes after he was as good as his word. It is very dangerous meddling in these cases here. There were at least 200 proselytes made in these 13 days. It is our shame, for I believe all Europe have not gained so many Turkes to us these 200 yeares; for, though the Ch. of Rome boast their Emissaryes here (as, indeed, there are many, many), Jesuits, Dominicans, Franciscans, yet, believe me, they have other designes than converting of Turkes.
There was constantly a Mezin[335] (or cryer, or steeple man), which call’d to prayers from behind the G. Sr.’s tent, as I thought, out of the Seraglio. Besides those who call to prayers upon every steeple, every great man (as the Kaimachan Bostangebasha, etc., at Stamboul) has his Mezin, and by consequence the G. Sr. must have his. Then, indeed, it was wonderfull to see with what reverence, uniformity, and most admirable devotion all (especially the men of note) betook themselves to their prayers in publick; the chief men in their stands and tents, the others (everywhere round the ring), 20 or 30, or more or lesse, in companys abroad upon carpets or the bare ground. We were permitted to stand by without the least disturbance. I had seen their manner before, and have all their prayers (which are in Arab) by me. Sometimes they stand, sometimes kneel, oftentimes bowing their head to the very ground and kissing it. I was once within 5 yards of the G. Sr. all the time.
There is in all Mosches, and in most great men’s houses, and was here likewise in the G. Sr.’s and others tents, a Imaun (Imam), or learned man (for they have no such thing as orders or distinction between clergy and laity), who did praise, or rather speak out the prayers, the rest keeping a profound silence and imitating him in their bowings and postures. I should heartily have commended their piety, had I not seen in the very same place all the roguery and beastliness, and the like, acted there publickly with the applause and approbation of the chief men amongst them as well as the rabble: as shall be by and bye recounted. Devotion being ended, which never lasted above ¼ of an hour, imediately strike up the Capagasi’s musick (the head of the white Eunuches), and the Capigé basha’s musick.
The G. Sr., Vizier, Kaimachans, etc., musick is all alike. 1st, there are trumpets, which come in onely now and then to squeel out a loud note or two, but never play a whole tune. 2d, pipers—their pipe is much the same with our trebble shaurne[336] or Hoóboy; these play continually without any pause. 3d, great drums, but not bract[337] as oures, nor corded at the bottom; they beat them at both ends, the top with the right hand with a great stick at every long or leading note, the bottom with a little in their left hand at every small or passing note; these have their pauses often. 4thly, little kettle or dish drums (for they have both) dissonant one to the other, for they are in paires; these rest sometime likewise. 5thly, they have 2 brasse platters about foot wide, which they hang loose in their hands, and clatter them one against the other.
I am very inclinable to believe all this Musick old, and mention’d in Scripture. These last either were the cymbals mention’d in Chron. 15, 19. At the sounding of the Musick above 200 Mestejés (or firemen) came from the G. Sr.’s stables (which were hard by) into the Ring, bearing their Beacons upon their shouldjers, and singing all the way a prayer for the G. Sr. in such a dismal tone, which, with the noyse of the musick before named, and all the lights and fires, and the black Tooloonjés muving up and down, gave me the perfectest representation of Hell that ever I yet saw upon earth; yet the Turkes count it a heavenly thing. I do verily believe our custome of pulling of our hat, and bidding good evening at lighting up, or bringing in of the first lights or candles (as like wise all Greekes, Jewes, Armenians, and the Italians here give the buona sera at the first light), was a very antient custome all over the East, and this prayer of the Mestejés is nothing else. They set their lights round the ring and tend them with fuell. Those before the Sultana, G. Sr., Vizier, etc., wer 6 or 8 branches upon the same stalk; the others were single. This shewes you something to conceive the double ones by. There were about 200 Tooloonjés to keep of the rabble, continually waiting; and though they suffer’d no Turke to go in, yet we could passe and repasse without the least difficulty imaginable. All the lights placed and orderd, besides the light of the moon assisting, the sports and dances begin afresh, which continued commonly till midnight; sometimes much longer, seldome lesse.
On May the 21st was nothing to doe, for just about sun set was such a terrible Burasca of wind, thunder, lightning, rain, and hail (very great) mixt together, as almost blew down their tents, beat out all their lamps, and spoil’d all their machines, and the sand, which is round the city in many beds before the rain, was roused in such a prodigious manner, as being that night on horseback I could not see his head; it was a perfect Ægyptian mist of dust. The G. Sr., Vizier, and all the company were forced to retire for that night.
After these dances and sports were over, about midnight (as is said), began very excellent fireworks of all sorts, which continued till towards morning, and then all retired to their repose. Now for the dances and sports. You must understand that from all parts of the Empire were summon’d all (his subjects), Jewes, Greekes, Arabs, Armenians, Turkes, etc., that were any wayes excellent for any sports or entertainments of delight, and truly I do not believe these Eastern Countryes can afford any thing more in that kind then what I have seen here. First, your dancers were for the most part young youths, very handsome generally; most Greekes, yet some more Turkes, Armenians, and a few Jewes.
The best were clothed very rich, either cloth of gold, silver, or rich silk. They had on a just a corp, as we say, coming to mid thigh, close button’d at the hands, and girt about them with rich girdles as their purse and fancy led them; under it (over the rest of their cloth’s) they had a petticoat, which was very large, and hang’d very full, down to their ankles; this was very rich, and of some pretty light merry colour. These clothes were given them by the G. Sr., or Sultana. Their heads are not shaven quite close, but very lovely locks are left round, which at other times they wear up close, and are unseen; but now they let them down, and set them out to best advantage, sometimes disshevel’d all about their shoulders, sometimes braided and hanging at their back. They commonly wore over their hair a plain cap of silk (small, or scull fashion’d) or (which is more gentele) a fur’d sort of cap, cal’d here a culpáck. There was a delicate lovely boy, of about 10 yeares old, had as comely head of hair, long as most women. With him danc’t a lusty handsome man (about 25), both Turkes. They acceded all the roguish lascivious postures conceivable with that strange ingenuity of silent ribaldry, as I protest I believe Sardanapalus and all the effeminate courts of the East never came near them. They pleased so extremely that there was scarce a night but they acted in some place or other. I saw them severall times before the Sultana doe as much as anywhere else. The rest danc’t 4, 6, sometimes 8 in a company. It consists most in wriggling the body (a confounded wanton posture, and speakes as much of the Eastern treachery as dumb signs can), slipping their steps round gently; setting and turning. Never is their arming, or any figure, or handing; yet one night before the Sultana they danc’t in hats and perukes, and Frank habit, but could not imitate us in anything. I never saw them a second time, which makes me believe they did not please. They allwayes come before the person (where they dance) running (as all other that have occasion to passe and re-passe, unlesse in the bringing of presents or the like solemnity); then they fall either into a semicircle or whole round, and so continue falling out of one tune and humour into another, till at last, with a merry wherry of their musick, they turn round (as the Dervises) a long time, and so stopping they bow, and away they run to their musick, which are alwayes hard by. These differ from the other Musicianers, and may be cal’d the private musick, being commonly Pans pipe of 20, 25, 30, (at most) 32 reeds, placed in order, lesse and shorter each than another as the notes rise. I have heard it plai’d on three or four times since I came into Turkey, and fancy it certainly to be the most enravishing tone in nature; yet the notes are fixt, and cannot be alter’d flat and sharp ad libitum, and therefore cannot be brought into the canon of musick to play anything that is appropriated to some peculiar lessons. 2d, a little pittifull instrument with three wire strings, which every fellow thrums ordinarily about the street. I take it to be the Pandura of the antients.[338] 3rdly, Turkish and Arab lutes of 5, 8, sometimes but 4, double strings, with a little neck a yard (the least), sometimes more, long. They have severall sorts of them—all not worth a lowse. 4, a sort of Dulcimer with gut strings, touch’t with both hands, as the Harp, onely this lyes flat and Horizontall. The Jewes have a kind of fiddle of 4 guts, tuned like a violin, but (that you may know the excellency of it) the back and sides are commonly made of the bottome of a gourd, the belly of a dryed film, or skin hornifyed[339]; the neck is of a piece of broom stick. Lastly, to crown the Consort, you have every where a Tambúr, of which something is said above, is well known in Italy. These minstrells set all down crosse leg at a convenient distance on the one side of the persons before whome they plaid. The dancers have in each hand two peices of Ebony, 3 or 4 inches long, which they knock and charre together in time to the musick. I fancy they are every whit as good as our castenettas. They call them in Turkish chalparéh, in Greek παιξάρι. Next there were many actors of little playes or interludes; all in the most beastly brutish language possible, as I was sufficiently informed by my companions, and there actions fully confirmed it. The actors of men were Armenians and Turkes that came from the borders of Persia, and several times acted certain conceits in Persian habit, which was very becoming, being far more rich and gaudy then the Turkes wear. They often mix, as is said, severall sorts of beasts in their gambals, and in every play alwayes enter’d in a large Dear (like our hobby horses), whome they call’d Hóo, which is a name of God; but there it stood for a Robin good fellow, or hobgoblin, pulling them, and biting them, and playing a 1,000 freakes. In sume, the best of them did not exceed our ordinary Christmasse gambals.
There was one acted there very often not much unlike the old man with 7 Sons, so good, so good. They acted two drunken men, two young whores, and an old baud, and a gallant, and a souldjer; a cuckold and his three wives; wherein all the tricks and wayes of making love here in Turkey, and the extreame jealously and severity of these people were excellently well expresst. They acted a horse courser, a barbier, a butcher, and several such conceits. In Persian habit, with every one his plume of feathers in his Turbant, they acted an humour which pleased mightily. They begin in a ring, and what the cheif does all the rest are to imitate, or run the gantlet. If he turnes to the right, left, forward, or round, sculk down, start up, etc., they immediately do the like. Such pour pastorals we had in great variety, and they passe here for greater ingenuity than your playes can doe in England. Their tiring place is alwayes behind the Musick a convenient distance, from which and to which they alwayes passe and re-passe running, as before is said of the dancers.
Next I must recount the Maisters of activity. First there was a bastanjé, a middle-sized squad fellow, who shew a vast strength in tossing about weights. Upon sticks or steales,[340] about 4 foot long, were fasten’d at the end round stones, each weighing from 26 pound to 50 pound a piece. Beginning with the least first, he would take in each hand one, and swing them about his head, under his armes, behind his back, over his shoulders, many strange wayes with the greatest dexterity and agility imaginable; then setting down them, he would take the two next, and so change on till he come to the last, which (as is said) weighed at least 50 pound apeice; yet he would tosse them about with ease, even to admiration. Some of these he would hold steady and strong at his armes end. Having laid them by, he began with single ones of like fabrick, but weighing from 60 lb. to 120 lb. a peice, being equall to our hundred weight. Fastning the steel or handle to his wrist with a leather thong, he managed all the smaller first in like manner with one hand, still rising till he came to the greatest, which to my amazement he tost about likewise. He had others with a vast piece of iron at the end loose, so as lifting up the steal it would slip to the handle; thence he would throw it out to the end again with a great slap or crack. These he first managed likewise double, then single; but they were not so heavy; the biggest of these weigh’d not above 50 or 90 lb. at most. Lastly, he had a round stone weighing a Kintal[341] and half, just our hundred and half, fixt or hang’d to two steales with two short chaines; this would he tosse about at a strange rate, swinging it behind his back, his head being between the sticks and his armes. His right arme was alwayes braced with a fillet very hard and close above the elbow. There are many of these stone balls (or shot) with Iron steales or handles in many places here hang’d up, at which I have many times wonder’d, the Turkes telling ridiculous fables concerning them. There are two by the great Bagno in Scutary, and severall hang’d up over severall gates in Stambol with Turkish writing ingraved upon them, yet none of them exceeded (if they any wayes can equall) these which this fellow plaid withall.
I made an exact enquiry since I came home, and understand that these here at Stambol have been in like manner menaged,[342] and the writings speak by whome and before whome it was done, as particularly one of them over Adrianople gate (in Stambol) was menaged just before Mahomet 3d, who took the City, and being infinitely pleased with the strength and activity of the man (whome report made a Bulgarian), he rewarded the man well, and caused the stone ball with the Iron in it to be chain’d up there in memory of him. Some of these in Stambol have a crosse peice of Iron at top, which make me inclinable to believe that the Greek Emperors had this sport before, and the Turkes learn’d it from them. There were vaulters there good store; but, indeed, I think we out doe them all.
This Bustanjé would do prettily well. I see him stand upon the edge of two Cimeters (each foot upon one) barefoot, and swing about one of his greater single stones without the least harme. There was an Arab likewise would lay his bare back upon one, and at the same time a great, lusty man stood on his belly, as likewise he would heave on 2 or 3 vast great stones by the help of a pulley, and yet his back never was hurt. I confesse to read this story in Busbequius made me amazed (as this may you); but when I saw the height of it, I counted it a poor thing; for by his buttocks, and his head, neck, and shoulders, he bore up his belly so as the cimiter lay under the hollow of his back, and a strong man may easily bear a vast weight in that posture. The same man took the Cimiter with his hands at each end, and, laying the edge to his bare belly, moved it very hard from right to left without any harme, onely making a little red line where the edge past. He would fasten a pulley to a gibbet, and through ran a rope, fastend at one end to a ring, to which all his hair was tyed at the crown of his head; the other end was in his hand, by which he would pull himself up a great height. Sometimes he did it with another man at his back; once with an Asse fastend to his shoulder; once with a young camel. I have made some conjectures upon it, but I will not anticipate your mechanicks about this φαινόμενον, onely tell you it seems a pretty one. He took a great pole, about 3 yards long and ½ foot thick, but broader at each end, and setting one end upon the teeth of his lower jaw, he danct with it in this posture upright without touching it, but clapping his hands to his musick, by then he put another frame upon it with 8 or 10 branches (or he could adde more) upon it by a hole that was in the top. Upon every stanza he would set a cup of water; then raysing it, he would dance with all these in like manner without spilling one drop. Then by a stick, which he would put into the same hole, he set a little boy crosse-leg’d upon it, and danct with him in like manner. Lastly, he would set a great pitcher of water up on the upper end, and dance with it; then all of a sudden, with great force, he would strike away the end at his mouth from him, and catch the pitcher in his armes. We saw most of these tricks upon the road acted by him, and all again repeated in the Ring.
Some yeares since there was an Arab at Smyrna did all these tricks much more dexterously; instead of a pitcher of water, he would lay a little child flat on its back upon the upper end, and bidding it shut its eyes, would dance with it a little while, and at last, striking away the pole, would catch it in his armes safely. He likewise would place a handjar, or Turkish dagger, ¾ foot long, upon the ground, with the poynt upwards; he layes himself on his back with his head close to it, then raysing up his heeles, and his body poysed, his body upon his head and neck, and then with a jerk would turne himself quite to the other side the dagger without the least harme. This fellow did the like, but more bunglingly. The Smyrna man would likewise place three swords with their points upwards, and upon them a little piece of dirt or such a thing; then fetching a run, he would passe them on the ayre, striking of the pieces of dirt, and with the fourth step come to the ground. This logger-head did not doe it, though he said he could.
Jugglers were many likewise, but the generality were loggerheads to what we have in England. There was one, an Arab, so ill-looking a fellow as you would have sworne that he was elder brother to the Divel himself. His face exceeding black and shriveled much (for he was old), blear-eyed, his head bald and shined like soot, being well baked in the sun; he had short, crisp’d hair, black and massy (like a black moor) round about like the Corona of the fryars; and he was accordingly clad just like a Dominican in a white serge vest or gown closed before, with open sleeves covered with another black one like it in all things, excepting that it was not closed before.
The common people here are the most superstitious, credulous, fabulous creatures alive. I speak of all Turkes, Greekes, etc., and this man by his lookes, and garb, and tricks had so imposed upon them as severall had represented him to me as if he had been one of the old Magicians in Ægypt risen from Gehenna. I was big with desire and expectation of seeing him, for he seldome (as the best of his jibes being common) shew’d his tricks publickly. At last I laid out for him, and he was brought to my Ld. He shew’d little then, but I saw all he could do afterwards, which truely was not much, and being so old, he slubber’d[343] his businesses over so as I could discover all he did. He had 5 or six snakes tam’d, which were kept under the white frock, and with these he would make good sport. He would pull one from your buttons, nose, bosome, etc., and taking any thing of the standers by, as knives, handkerchiefs, bals, etc.; going to returne them, he would drop you a snake. Now, no people in the world being more fearfull of such things then these, he past for such a miracle-monger amongst them as I fear they of Ægypt were little better, especially considering how highly his conceits might be improved; for here are dayly snakes carryed up and down, tamed, of all sizes almost, and I did not question amongst the vulgar even in England to make thousands of them believe I could turn almost anything into them by sleight of hand, with a little thought and practice. By help of his under frock (closed before, and with wide sleeves), with his left hand he could give and take anything from his right hand unseen; by which he made many pretty conveighances, though none very fine. Had you heard the relations of the people (some understanding men), you would not wonder at my relation to you. One came and swore to me that he pul’d a snake a yard long out of his nose; another that he put a little small ball under a cup, and it was turn’d into a serpent; another gave him a cup of wine, and he drank and return’d the cup, and going to fill one more for himself, swore there leapt out a great snake, etc. I got so much liberty as to see all his contrivances under his frock, which are too tedious to be repeated.
I saw another which thrust a Iron (which I had in my hand all the time, and it was really done) about 10 inches (at the least) long in to his nose, up to the hilt, and may easily be done with a little practice by anybody. Many more such tricks I have to communicate to you when we meet.
There was wrastling every day, according to the old way, which is yet peremptorily retain’d. They are naked, all but a short pair of drawers put over their middle. There is nothing of play, but onely meer strength required. Nothing is accounted of unless the vanquished person be laid flat on his back, and therefore they fall worrying and tumbling on the ground perhaps 1½ hour till one be rowled on his back. Many come in oyl’d all over, that no man’s hand could hold fast any part of them, and therefore the wrist, or ham, or ancle, if they can be grasped, are the onely places of laying good hold. It is well pictur’d in a late author (Potinus), treating of medals, but it is nasty sport at best.
About mid-night, as is said, all the dances and other sports being over, began the fireworks, which, indeed, very much delighted me. The chief contrivers were two (a Venetian and Dutch) Renegadoes, there being appointed all materials in a large Cháne, and at least 200 stones to beat and prepare their compositions. First there were several figures of monstrous giants, many-headed and deformed. They were hollow’d and framed with little hoopes, and paper’d over. These were hang’d all over with crackers, serpents, sausissons,[344] etc., and after these were fired (which alwayes was done with excellent time), out of their heads, and Eyes, nose, eares, flew severall rockets, and, last, out of their mouths gushed streams of fire. Some had charges in their hands, which fired in the last place, and the armes being continued loose, swung them about very dexterously. Severall of these machines were contrived to turn upon the pole or spindle on which they hung, and were caryed round by a blind rocket attacht to the hem of their garments, for you saw no legs—nothing but a long coat cover’d their lower part. What was burnt of the frame was infallibly repair’d by next night.
Next there were Pyramids (slightly framed, all to be caryed and recarryed dayly, which was done by Slaves) of at least 10 or 12 yards high, hang’d in like manner with fireworks all over, and after they fired, remain’d upon the sides little cotton stoups[345] innumerable, which, being prepared with a composition of camphore, etc., burnt a full quarter of an hour after the others were past, like so many pure white flames or tapers, in due rank and file from bottom to top. At last, from the top, flew a volley of rockets, crackers, and other wild fire altogether, with very wonderfull delight.
There were contrived severall trees (as I may call them), or stands branched and hollowed, and filled with a nimble composition which gave fire from bottom to top to severall canes attach’t to the sides (at holes on purpose) and charg’d variously with all manner of fire workes. Coming into the branches were discharg’d severall hundred of them together. There were severall large paste boarded castles, charged within and without with the like workes, which discharg’d in like manner. There was a high, large fountain, which, when it had discharg’d all his fire-workes, left four double rowes (at convenient distance) of pipes, which cast out streames and drops of fire in exact resemblance of the naturall fountaines of water; and, at the top, four large pipes, and, in the middle of them, a fift, very big, all which cast streames of fire (which was whiten’d with Camphora) upward. It dured a long time, and ended with a volley of rockets, discharged all at once into the ayre. There was a round fountain, contrived to move upon the pin or staff (on which the whole machine hang’d), in 4 or 5 peices, which, by blind rockets attacht to them, moved contrary wayes, though at a distance they all seemed to move the same way, the angles in the eye being the same. In all things else it was like the former fountain.
There was (May 28th) a very large castle brought forth, intended to represent the castle at Candia. After an infinite of fireworkes discharg’d from it, and God knowes how many guns fired from within (by men on purpose, who withdrew afterwards at a port hole), it took fire at last (designedly) in so admirable a manner as no naturall fire could seem more reall. The combustible matter was made with so exquisite a composition, and the ribs so well contrived, as though the flame burst out in many places about the bottom of the roof; yet the top took fire in due time and burnt with the body, and dropt down first peice by peice. Then the sides began to let the fire break out through them, and by little and little the top parts of them fell down first, and then the wals wasted in order, till all was dropt down in one heap of fire. All this was done with that leisure, as it lasted at least an hour, and made the goodlyest bonefire that ever I saw.
There was severall men with hobby horses about them, and other figures, cover’d all over in like manner with fireworkes, which taking fire, ran up and down and encounter’d one another bravely. There were great timbers placed up like gallowes, and to one another were fasten’d ropes in such a manner as upon them were hang’d little ships, galleyes, etc., able to hold two or three men (but many, many made of paper, and the like stuff, represented a whole ship’s crew), who managed the guns and fireworkes within, contrived most dexterously; and with other ropes pulling these vessels backwards and forwards, they represented a sea-fight very naturally. One was betwixt Capt. Georgio’s ship (a famous corsair, about 10 yeares since taken by them) and two galleyes. It was late every night before this trade of fire was over, but then for an hour, some times, it was a great deal more. The Mestegées from all quarters of the Ring, at their fires, fir’d severall thousands of rockets (especiall 28th of May, the last night but one, and the best), which certainly are the best fireworkes to behold in Nature. Some of them discharg’d about 30 starres, and as many little camphire bals of pure white fire. There was a sort (which I confesse I doe not understand well) which flew up all wayes without any fuse, but onely one visible dull coal (as it were), till they broke aloft and discharg’d their starres, and with a great report, as many of the others likewise did. All these, when they were discharg’d, were levell’d to fly over the people’s side; for at the festivalls at the birth of this prince, a Jew (that made the fireworkes) shot one large rocket towards the Kiosk, designing to have mounted it over, but it chanced to fly right into the Kuzler agà’s[346] lap, and burnt up all (if any little was left). The poor Jew was first drub’d 150 drubs on his feet, but the black devil, the gelding, would not rest satisfied with that, but got him cut of.
All these were shown the (28th May), but every other night we had enough, though not such variety. There were several Iron charges much like the chambers of Pettarders,[347] but farre bigger and longer. These were fasten’d into the ground fill’d with a slow composition, which being fir’d, cast up one continuall stream of fire (with dreadfull noyse) at least 20 yards high into the Ayre. The first night I went to see them on horseback, being caryed by an Italian Count (his name formerly Bocareschi), now a lancia sperrata to the G. Sr., with whome I had the luck to be very well acquainted some yeares agoe. He was infinitely civill to me (though a damned rogue all along, and I was alwayes aware of him), yet I shall tell you of him more by and by. He caryed me (being on horseback himself) between the G. Sr.’s and Vizier’s tents within 8 yards of either of them (at severall times), without the least molestation or difficulty. I was round with him in twenty companyes of Turkes, and houses and places; but that is not now to be insisted on.
When the lights began, I and he went on the People’s side, where were many more horsemen besides. My horse snorted and trembled, so I suspected no good, yet I was resolved to stay and see all. Just as the fireworkes began, he and many other horses by, ran mad, and rising up fell on his hams, then, trembling, on his side, fairly layd along and run away as if the Divel had drove him. I was getting up, but seeing many, many mad Jades coming, I fell flat on my face, and committed the event to God. His name be ever praised! for though I dare sware at least 100 horse and people came over me, I got not the least harm imaginable in the world.
You must understand this Bocareschi was a very parasite as lived, an excellent wit, and some little learning, the Latin toung perfectly; but for his damned traiterous perfidious tricks, was kick’t out of all publick ministers’ companyes. And for my own part I knew him well, but caressed him onely to make my ends of him at this time; which I did, for he had come and made a little interest here with my Ld. and Sir Tho. Baines. We went for Adrianople, and there he come almost every day, and eat and drank wine with us. Now he kept alwayes fair with me, for fear I might doe him some discourtesy. I alwayes gave him good words, though in good earnest every one else hated him. That you may see once for all what a beast he was, he came and eat and drink at my Ld.’s Table with the Plague upon him twice, and at last dyed of it, within 8 houres after he went from us.
I was with the Ragusean Embassr. (as is said) several times to see the sights. We alwayes had a cherbigee or two that look’t after us, and would not suffer the greatest Turk whatever to molest us; but we sat on a cushion with bolsters and cushions, very near the Vizier’s tent. Once Bocareschi had promis’d to shew Sr. Th. B. the sights (for my Lord never saw anything). One night he came with some servants, and one or two of the nation with him. Bocareschi seing the Embassdr. of Ragusia there placed (with whome I was at that time present), out of a pico (for the Embassr. hated him to death, and had affronted him highly) brought in Sr. Tho. B. and his company, and placed him just before us. The Embr. was divilishly displeased at it, as likewise the Turkes that waited on him. But Bocareschi, being a Metafaraca,[348] would not make any stirre, but came and desir’d the Embr. and us to rise, and so removed us to a better place, just under the G. Vizier’s tent, where we rested in spight of him, till all was done. The Vizier wears severall caps (as is before mention’d). Once I saw him at the sights in one which they tell me is used in time of warre, but he soon chang’d it for a common one. As for all sorts of rope dancers, here were the best in the world.
June 10th. The present of Cool-oglan (the Mosaïf or favourite), the bridegroome, was carryed by; we went to see it. First went by severall companyes of janissaries with their cherbigées, then many more with their chief officers. The jannisary Aga in cloth of gold, the Chia beghi[349] in green velvet, the Janizary Effendi (or Lawyer), secretary or clerk; the Bashé chiaus,[350] his cap little and short feathers. Then severall companyes of spahées.[351] The sub-basha (or chief constable) of the Suburbs of Adrianople. These were all in court coates, like Chaucer’s taberd,[352] armelesse, yet little hanging sleeves as the picture of the Virgin in C. Ricaut’s book, p. 43, fur’d within and without, either cloth of silver, gold, satin, velvet, etc., all in chiaus caps but the Effendi, whose cap was lawyer-like. At last came 30 mules handsomely trimm’d and furnisht, each loaden with two little painted chests or boxes in which was gold and silver, as is reported good store; next came in two rowes (on either side the street) one 112 persons on foot, in chiaus caps and well clad, bearing presents upon their armes (some one, some 2, 3, or 4), distinctly wrapt up in linnen, but every one was seen. They were peices for vests of cloth of gold, silver, satin, velvet embroyder’d works, pearl’d work, etc.; then a company of Janizaryes and Cherbigees on foot; after them were led by foot stately horses, and a strawish-colour’d bay was in the last place, as delicately limm’d, as I declare it, I never saw the like, with a curious starre on her forehead, about 15 hand high, as we guest. These were designed for the G. S. to dispose of as he pleased. After this came two little Náculs, and then three or four artificial gardens, about 3 yards square, with pretty knols and walkes, full of floures and trees, with their fruits all of tolerable waxe work, with Kioskes (or summer-houses) in the middle, and severall birds and beasts placed here and there amongst the plants and trees; two had artificiall fountaines in them, which were supplied with the same water by an engine of clockwork contained within them. All these were carryed by slings in the slaves’ hands, who were (as aforesaid) menaged by galley-whistles; then followed, in two files on each side of the way, one 120 sugar-workes, borne on frames by two slaves a peice, sedan wise, made from 2½ foot to a yard and half high, some more or less as the fancy required. They were Ostridges, Peacocks, swans, Pelicans, etc., Lyons, Beares, greyhoundes, dear, horses, Elephants, Rams, Buffaloes, etc. (it is unlawfull to make the figures of men); they were done brutishly and bunglingly. Then came a new set of Janizaryes and Cherbigees, and after them a present of all things necessary for a Turkish lady in her dressing-room; caryed open by men well clad, in two files as before, viz., a paire of bootes (for here all women do ordinarily wear such), a pair of papoutches[353] (sorts of shoes), slippers, chioppines[354] (or pattens of wood): all these wrought and cover’d with pearl of the bignesse of ordinary cherry-stones the least, and intersperst with Diamonds and rubyes, etc. It was a brave time for Jewellers; any trash, if it made but a fair show at a distance, was vendible at good rates.
Next came a sable embroyder’d vest with 9 large button and loopes, Persian fashion, al set with pearl, rubeyes, and a great diamond on every button; the 2d button and loop, which serves for a clasp, had on either side a very large table Diamond. Next followed severall round looking-glasses with gold frames and cover (or door), and stydded with pretious stones; then several mighty rich girdles of stones set in gold and enamel; likewise several bracelets for the hands, answerable to them. Here you must understand that even women must have girdles, bracelets, and topases, or else they are no gentle women, as in England they are not without a black bag; the bracelets are wrought of gold wire, sometimes gold plate, from 1 to 4 or 5 inches wide, etc. There were two or three gold chaines with large brooches of Diamonds (and the like); at the end severall pair of earings, one amongst the rest of 2 Emeralds, pear fashioned, very large, valued by the Greeke that sold them (and shew’d me them before) at 5,000 zechines, or near upon 3,800 lb. sterling at 4s. 6d. to the dollar. In a pretty christall glasse, with a little golden open frame, was caryed hanging a plain gold ring, with a rose diamond of 11½ carats. Severall cabinets and dressing-boxes adorned with pearl and jewels, severall Essence boxes, and the like, set out in the same manner. At last came a little crown all of beaten gold, studded with jewels upon the fringe. Then came the Testerdor (or Lord Treasurer) on horseback, who was Vikéil,[355] or deputy, for the sposo. He strew’d whole handfulls of aspers among the people as he went, which was but very slowly; all the presents being caryed in state, and as easily as foot could fall; they were lay’d all upon fine handkerchiefs in silver dishes. After the Testerdor rode his musick, 12 pipes, as many drums, 6 trumpets, 6 kettle drums; four cymbalists, all on horseback. After them come many, many servants leading and riding their masters’ horses, who went before in the shew on foot.
Take here, if you please, as exact account as I could get of the manner of the Mariage and espousals. First, you must understand all was treated by proxeyes (which they call Vickeel), to the making of which two witnesses also were appointed, all by the G. Sr., to wit, two Cadeleschiers, one of Europe, the other of Asia. The proxeys were the Kuzleraga for the sposa, the Testerdore for the sposo, and thus they were made. The Kuzleraga,[356] with the two Cadeleschiers as witnesses, went to the Sultana’s door, and knocking, said: Sultana, are you content to make me your Vikéel for marrying of you with Mustapha (the Mosaïf or favourite)? She answers: Yes. He ask her this thre times (on the other side the door, which must not be opened by no meanes), likewise thre times the same. This is immediately recorded by the two Cadeleschiers, and (as to the Sultana) is irrevocable. Then the same witnesses goe with the Testerdór to Mustapha or Cool-oglan, the sposo, and face to face the Testerdor ask him the like words (mutatis mutandi) thre times, and to each he answers: Yes. Then away these go to the Mufti together; there they set down in his court (of which afterwards), the Mufti in the midst, with the Kuzléraga on the left hand (being the chief in Turkey) and Testadore on the right, and the 2 Cadeleschiers before them alla Turchesa, or at there feet alla Franca. The Mufti asks wherefore they call’d him; they answer: To perform a worke of Paradise, to wit, the marriage of the Sultana and the Mosaïf. The Mufti asks who are Vikeels; the Kúzleraga said: I am for the Sultana; the Testerdor: I am for Mustapha; the Cadeleschiér: We be witnesses to it. Then the Mufti made the Kuzléraga and Testerdore to set one over against the other, and asks the Kuzléraga: Are you content to take Mustapha for your husband? This is done thre times, to each of which Kuzleraga answer: Yes. Then he askes the like (mutatis mutandis) of the Testerdor, to which he likewise three several times answer: Yes. The Mufti then demands the Testerdore what dowry he will promise to make her; he answer: a yeare’s revenue of grand Cairo; which is 600,000 zechines, at 4s. 6d. the dollr.; it makes of our sterling money 33,750 lb. (I must tell you, by the by, that the greatest compliment to a fair woman in Turkey is to tell her her eyes are worth a year’s revenue of Grand Cairo.) Then the Mufti asks the Testerdor: Will you give it? thre times; he as often answers: Yes. Then he asks Kuzleraga: Will you accept it? thrice; he answers as often: Yes. Then the Mufti sayth: Bismillah (in Dei nomine). Then all standing up, he blesses the mariage; and so entertayning them with Coffee and sherbert, etc., dismisses them. The G. Sr. immediately vested these with cloth of gold and sables to the value of 1,000 dollrs.; the other two (witnesses) with vests of 500 dollrs. I had not car’d if I had been Mufti; I am confident I could have made as good a marriage. During the festivalls of the circumcision, one day, all publick tradesmen were forc’d to go in procession with every man his wagon locked, in which he publickly labour’d at his trade—shoemakers, taylors, weavers, etc.; so much as Bakers had an oven, smiths their little forges, butchers flead their sheep, etc. Which you may imagine such a piece of glorious madnesse as Europe elsewhere cannot pattern. Every wagon was set out with tokens of their art, and boughs and bandiéras[357] of silk or painted paper at least.
June 19th. The Dote (or the dowry) was carryed by from the Seraglio, which was given by the G. Sr. to the sposo, as in all your ordinary weddings, before the bride is carryed her portion, which chiefly consists in vests and clothing. There went many by towards the Seraglio to come with the rest back again, as Janizaryes, Cherbigees, the Vizier’s guards, Armorers, Cadeleschiers, and other officers, Topgées (or gunners) in red caps. Their Head men or bashas wore a furre cap, distinguished by the cock’s feathers in the top; these being white and red intermixt, the other all of one colour. The Mosaïf himself came by, with the Mufti on his left hand.
We staid there about 1½ houre; then they all came back in this order: First, the Topejées, Armourers, the Vizier’s guards; then the G. Sr.’s, waiters in Caphtans (or court vests): these serve him at table; then 4 or 5 Companyes of Janizaryes and their Cherbigées, all in Caphtans, sattin or velvet furred; then the Aga of the Janizaryes, with his crew; next came many, many Pioners with shovels, broams, etc.; then as many more Janizaryes with the Janizary Aga, whome they repute a very severe man, who never gratifyed any man that askt him anything, but doeth all things of curtesy of his own head, or not at all; any body is capable of that office, though he never was Janizary before.
The Janizary Aga had now his Santon[358] (or Tom of bedlame[359]) with him, with a strange kind of axe (or as they call it, Balta) on his shoulder. Then severall companyes of Janizaryes and Cherbigees; then about 100 chiaus’s with their feathers of distinction, just before on the left side; then 8 or 10 Executioners on foot. Then followed two gardens in wax work, caryed by slaves as abovesaid; then 40 little Naculs carryed by two files of Janizaryes. Then followed 86 mules, some laden with two long square sapets apiece, cover’d with Caphtan stuff; some laden with 2 beds a piece with bedding, left all a little open to be view’d by the standers by, and were all cover’d with cloth of gold or sattin or velvet, richly embroyder’d, some with silver, some with gold, some wrought with pearl. A third part of the mules had two lesser square sapets (or leather hampers) a peice, cover’d with black leather. Then ten men bearing severall pieces of household stuff, as furniture for beds, green satin foot cloths, plated with beaten gold, several leather and velvet carpets, plated some as the foot cloths. Mum-sofras (round leathers to set candles, pots, etc., upon), plated likewise; 4 very large silver lanthornes, the ribs gilt with gold. Then came by in like order, as is before said, bootes, papoutches, slippers, chioppines, set all with pearl and Diamonds; hand bracelets, girdles, many pair of each, all gold and pretious stones; Looking glasses, 4 close cabinets and 6 large open ones, such as stand in Goldsmiths’ shops, all set out with jewels, pearles, gold wire, etc. A little stool of pearl and jewels; a coronet of beaten gold. Some say all these were onely the Mosaïf’s present (before mentioned) brought back again, which is most likely, they now being part of the Sposa’s accoutrements; though others would needs have them all new.
After those came the Rice Effendi, with a Cadeleschier on his right hand. Then the Testerdar, with another Cadeleschier on his right hand. Then the Vizier, with the Mufti on his left hand, of whome more hereafter. There was also in the train, a little before the Rice Effendi,[360] the Vani effendi,[361] the greater preacher who prated down all the coffee houses and Taverns, and, upon my life, it was well done. More of him anon. Then, in the reer of them, were the musick—pipes, trumpets, etc., on Camels; after which followed many Janizaryes, and after them came many women slaves, in 12 close coaches, with 2 black Eunuchs before each coach, some of them inclining to tawny, whereof three were very well featured youths, all admirably well mounted, and exceedingly richly clad. After the coach rode 12 blacks more, in one body, like the rest—on horses, and habit, etc. All these were peculiar to the Sposa, and were reckon’d as part of her goods; for in many points the Civil Law of the Romans is here observed, as above you may see, no marriage without a Dote. Then followed about 40 servants on foot, leading as many horses, laden with these slaves’ goods. Then followed the Rabble.
Jun. 23. The Sposa was carryed home, for, as I told you, every wedding hath something of this formality. The bridegroome sends presents with Naculs, etc., then the Bride’s trumpery is brought in state, and she followes it, allwayes hid under a square pavillion born over her, or a Canopy at least. After the procession were carried two gardens of fruits and floures in wax-work, with Kiosks in the middle, caryed as before. Then 2 great Naculs caryed by 160 slaves apiece, besides the guiders of the ropes and stages as above. Then two little Naculs of silver, with each of them a great candle at Top, which then were not lighted (the fashion before the Armenians and Greekes is to carry them lighted), but were to be lighted and renewed and kept burning during the whole festival, something in imitation of the old Hymenai; these were caryed by slaves, likewise being very ponderous. Then came crab-faced Kuzleraga and after him followed immediately (Dulcinia del Tobosa) the fair Angelike Agazé Sultana, or, as others pronounce it, Hatajé Sultana (the present Emperor’s eldest daughter), in a coach plated all over with silver, and garnisht out with gold, the wheeles and all other underwork (of wood and Iron) richly guilt or varnisht; a covering on the Top (as the fashion is) set with pearles and diamonds, six fair white horses, all the harnesse plated with silver and gold, and adorned with jewels. In their Tops each had a plume of feathers hanged with jewels. A postilion rode the fore-horse on the near side, and the coachman the hindermost of the same side. The covering of the coach was, in part, tuckt up to show the beauty of the work, which was so close a lattice as you could perceive nothing but some opaque body by help of the little light that crept in from the lattices on the sides. There were several Eunuchs attended it, whereof the first two strewed Aspers on both sides the street amongst the people (whereof I have some to make you a present of, if it please God we ever meet). One was very well favour’d, a tawny, and the bones of his face in very good symmetry, inclining to a tawny. I heard a pleasant story of him, and once met him at a garden at Adrianople, but I must let that pass now. Two more very rich coaches, with 6 horses, plumed and bespatter’d with jewels, followed, in the latter of which (which was cover’d with red broad cloth, and set out nobly) a very fine woman opened a little hole at the fore end, and peep’d out at us. Her face and head tire were very plainly seen. I dare not say no lesse then that she was lovely. Her fingers and part of her hand were peeping a good while before her face, and her nails were stein’d (as the custome is here) with aleanna[362] of a golden red (there were 4 blacks attended each of these). Then followed two more ordinary coaches with 6 horse, and two blacks apiece to attend them. Then 21 ordinary coaches more, many with 2 horses, most with 4, with one Eunuch to every of them. Then followed servants with horses, and cloathes upon them, led by. About half-an-hour after came the Sultana’s mother, in a very rich coach of silver, and embellisht with gold. There were 4 Eunuchs to attend her, and a great company of Baltajées axe men; as likewise 4 Eunuchs went a little before it. Then followed 6 good coaches with 4 horse, and each had a Baltaje riding in the Rose[363]; and one other by on foot. Then came three more rich coaches with 6 horse, and two baltajées, as the others. Lastly came one coach with 2 horses, and one Baltajé. There were many Blacks to accompany these on horseback, beside the soe named, onely they went straggling, and kept no order. In the rear followed the rabble.
Now, you must understand, all these coaches are made in the fashion exactly of waggons, onely they use cover’d over head, and hang’d by slings so close as the body have no room to swing, but jolts as hard as if it were fixt upon the axletrees.
After the Rebuil[364] evíl moon was ended, there were every day at Kindi (the 9th houre) sports at the Mosaïf’s house (which was in the city), and they lasted till midnight sometimes. They began the 14th of June, when they first saw the new moon, though it was a day old, it being by our account two dayes old then; they ended the 28th day. There was a very large square yard; at one end was a fair apartment of two chambers, where the Mosaïf and his friends continually were spectators; at the other end was a large, high, single room, to which oftentimes resorted the G. Sr., young prince, and many other favourites. After his sposa (as is said, the 23d day) was brought home, there was another square room in another corner with lattice-windows (gelosie), through which she and the Q. mother and others of the Ladyes saw all, being unseen themselves. The door was kept very strickt, that no Janizaryes or Turkes of fashion might enter, yet all strangers might go in without any difficulty in the world. I was there many times, of which some account by and by.
First, of the sports. We had every day the very same dancing as before; the same shewes at interludes. There were monkeyes, and dull Arab dancing, to entertain the people; for on one side were pitched tents in which the people stood, and the duller sports were before them. We (Franks) had liberty to go up and down as near the G. Sr. or Mosaïf as we pleased, and to stand and stare upon them as long as we pleased. They, in like manner, went to their devotions at Kindi (9th hour) and Ackshám (the 12 hour), and yet immediately in their sports they should applaud the same beastlinesse. 20 or 30 couple of wrestlers every day with their skins oyled all over; they alwayes touch the ground first with their hands, then put them to their head, then shake hands, or rather take their hands flat wayes one between the other, then kisse their own hands, and so begin; they say it is to call Heaven and Earth to witnesse that they meet good friends, and if any mischief happens it is beyond their intention.
There were tame bears played their tricks; once I saw a little boy stark naked wrestle with one (taught on purpose), which pleased mightily, and was shewn severall times to the G. Sr. there. By the by, my Ld. caryed to Adrianople a large English mastife, which had fought in private with the biggest bear, and worsted her in single combat; he made a present of him, which the G. Sr. took mightily kindly. They call our mastifes Samsons, and the G. Sr. nourishes severall, and hath here hard by our house a sommering-house for them; but this dog was half as high again as any of those which he had (which I have seen severall times), and that made him more acceptable. There were the same tumbling, stilts, and the Bostanjé with his stone Bottels, and the rest; but the best entertainment was rope-dancing, whereof there was but little in the other place; but here every day as good, and in some things better than all that ever I beheld in my life.
I shall now conclude with something that I am sure is not ordinary (if ever it was done) in England. From the top of Sultan Selim’s Mineret or steeple (which, as I measured it, is about 84 yards high, but the place I now shall speake of was 70 yards and 1 foot high) was stretcht a rope right over the houses down into this yard; there were two men came sliding down with pulleyes, one tyed to the hair of one of them, the other fasten’d the pulley to his ancle, and holding by it with his hands, sometimes slid soe part of the way, sometimes hanging at his length with his head down. The first time they tryed, the rope yeilded so much as if some men had not stood on purpose to catch them they had been beaten to peices upon the tops of the houses and trees that stood about that end of the Mosaïf’s yard, which was under the Rope; they then lengthened the rope and stretcht it very tight farther into the yard. This Rope was 460 yards long at first; they lengthen’d it to 480. Every day somebody or other slided down thus, or upon their breasts. One day a lusty fellow would needs slide down with a boy at his back, with a drum and a stick and switch to beat it; just as they came half way the rope broke, and down they fell upon a poor Armenian who was standing in the garden amongst others to view the sight. All thre were prety hurt and bruised, but it pleased God all thre recover’d. The G. Sr. paid for their cure, and offered the Armenian a pension of 20 aspers per diem as long as he lived; but he, thanking him, sent him word that he desired nothing else but that he might have 12 purses of money paid him which a great Basha had owed him a long time; but if he dyed he bequeathed it freely to the G. Sr. The G. Sr. gave orders that it should be done forthwith. He had only his shoulder put out of joynt and his body bruised; but I have seen him since well recovered. The other two were rewarded too; the man with a pension of 40 aspers per diem, the boy was taken into the Seraglio. Upon the 27 day (which was the last day that they could use this rope) two men walkt up this rope to the minaret; one came foot by foot back again down into the yard, and the other stay’d at the top of the mineret.
Now if any one in England had a mind to break his neck dexterously and secundum artem, I have told you how (if he have not very good luck) he may do it effectually. Every night there were fireworkes here of the same nature with the forementioned. There were here two Elephants and Castles encounter’d, with all sorts of wild fire, very curiously; but there were no great rockets or fire that would mount, for fear of firing the City. Here were several sorts likewise of your lamp work. Still we found the greatest civility imaginable, and were severall times treated with sherbert of lemmons (once with coffee and sweet meats in a low room; the Aga who carryed us in telling us that it would be a shame for us to come to the wedding of the G. Sr.’s daughter, and neither eat nor drink). We were commonly carryed into the Ring, and seated by ourselves, and many times had a Cherbigée or a Janizary to keep the crowd from coming near us. I suppose it was more out of ostentation than any great love to us; and dayly came Sackáls or budget men with a budget of sherbert, and cups into which he fil’d it out, and gave to us constantly, amongst the rest of the people of any fashion.
I (as is said) was severall times as near the G. Sr. as I pleased, and saw the manner of his state. He commonly sat upon a rich wrought or embroyder’d silk quilt, and sometimes the Prince was here with him (but we could not tell what here they sat on, they being so high above us); and about him were 8 or 10 handsome young men continually fanning him by couples. He never here appear’d in any rich or gaudy apparell, seldome smil’d; few courtiers near him in publick, and those but a very little, little time. Once the Vizier sat and talk’t with him in view about a quarter of an houre. The Mosaïf had continually company with him—the Testerdare, Kaimacham, sometimes the Vizier. He is a black man, sharp, descreet (or streight) nose, yet sadled a little between his eyes, some what beetle browed, broad flat faced, Russe-fashioned, but onely his hair is black, whereas their’s is red, white, or fair colour’d; his eyes pinking and smaller then proportion, and they are something hollow.
About Kindi come up severall of the G. Sr.’s Fakoners, with their Spaniells and severall most excellent hawkes; as certainly the whole world have not better. They seldome keep a Hawke above one season, but turne her out loose, and every year have new birds taken in plenty. They fist their hawk on the right fist; they serve their hawke with the lower joynt of the legge (instead of the head, after our manner), and therefore not a Phesant is to be bought in the mercate (unlesse it was caught some other way) with two legges. For you must understand in Asia side are many men keep hawks to get a livelyhood; and they furnish our Mercates. There are such every where, but onely they are not suffer’d near his court least they should spoyl his game.
One of our Merchants and I were walking out one night by the river side, and the Vizier’s Aga came by with 3 casts of Hawks and spaniels, and at least 16 or 20 men. I had chanc’t to kill a snipe crosse the river, and I had an old dog of my Ld. Harvey’s, which I sent for it. He was the most pleased with the sight that could be; we walkt on, but as we return’d we found him setting in the shade under a tree. We would have avoyded him, but he sent one of his men to call us; we obey’d. He had now sent home his dogs and hawkes, and most of his company; and he had gotten from a little town hard by a great bottle of wine of at least 5 or 6 quarts. He made us set downe, and there we drank out every drop of his wine; onely we three setting down. His servants, which there were not above 5, stood round us. He made two of them pipe to us all the time, which I swear was so sweet, as I never heard the like in Turkey. Their pipes were the true Tibiae; being made of the shank bone of a Bustard (as we guest at his description of it). He courted me extreamely for my dog; but I told him he was old and now worth nothing, and besides, it was the remembrance of an excellent friend; with which he was hardly satisfied. After he had gotten his Keéf, or Keph (his heart and head merry), we parted with all the civility in the world. There I learn’d a great deal of Falconry; which made me here bring the story in.
About the beginning of July happen’d a very grievous plague at Adrianople. It was very rife round about us, and so drove us out of town to a little village about a mile and ½ of to the W., called Caragatch (or black tree). It is in vain to tell you the many, many perills I was in, and it would be too troublesome for you to heare them, and for me to tell them. I shall onely say that, by constantcye, the Plague and all discourses about it grew so familiar to me as I was no more moved at them then at the newes of agues, or the new disease in autumne. My Ld. had a house here for himself, but all we were lodged, one here, another there, as we could procure single rooms. In the Towne are most Greekes, and the parson was infinitely civil to me, and got me a little room to myself, hard by my Ld.’s house; but within one month the plague set into this town likewise, and first seized my Land lady’s onely daughter, who every day I used to prattle withall. Our Tents were set up, and I removed thither, rather then come near any body to fright them; but in 5 or 6 dayes it come every where so fiercely, that it drove my Ld. and all the rest downe into the tents to me, and I, lying in my Ld.’s tent before, was now disappointed and forct (with two more companions) to go to town again, where I and they lived (till we were coming home) in the parson’s stable—and, faith, we past our time like princes, for we were within two bowes shot of the tents, and there we went to dinner and supper, and retired when we pleased. With carpets and mats we had made as good a sleeping hole as could be of it. There dyed at one time about 900 per diem in Adrianople, and above half this town dyed or fled. At last my two companions returned for Stambol, and then my Ld. would not let me stay there alone, so I had a little tent provided for myself and my man. Within one week the plague got into our tents amongst the servants. My Ld. and Sir Thomas fled to the Town again, the Plague being somewhat ceased at that end about their house. We endur’d at the tents, and I assure you there is no preservative like a merrie heart and a drame of the bottle. We lost our Baker, and 3 or 4 more of our servants, but the rest escaped—blessed be God. I was forc’t to remove my Tent twice, for it was gotten in the next tent to me, within 20 yards, amongst one of our chiause’s servants. There was not a man of us but was amongst plaguy people dayly. Count Bocareschi (as is said) came and dined with my Ld., and drank with us, with a plague sore upon him, of which he dyed the next morning.
This village has a little church dedicated to two saints,[365] ὃ ἅγιος Θεόδωρος ὃ τηρῶν and ὃ ἅγιος Θεόδωρος στρατηλάτης. They are famous for curing sore eyes, and, therefore, there are infinite little silver plates sloped and hollowed like eyes, and hang’d up as the antient ἀναθήματα.[366]
The River Arda and Meritch (Maritza[367]) joyne a little mile of, and then come running under this town; and here it is very sandy, and seldome clear in summer, for all the ground about it is very sandy, which, being dry in summer, upon every wind is carryed into the river, which makes it very shallow and broad. It is here fordable all the summer, but in winter, by floods from the hills, it overflowes into many outlets, which are dry in summer, as you may perceive the pricked[368] river next to Dimirdesh.[369] The fish are few and unwholesome. I saw a carp taken just 33 inches and 7⁄10 long. I saw one at Stambol once somewhat above 36 inches, and my Ld. Harvey assured me he had one at his audience in Salonica about 40 inches long.
There were 50 Greek familyes in town, and about 10 Turkish cheflicks,[370] or summer houses. The best sort of people fled to other places, as the Turkes likewise themselves did from Adrianople to their houses here, for that same is a story that they are not afraid of the plague, because their fortunes are wrote in their forehead; for all fled, but such as were poor, or had offices about Court, and could not get away. There dyed that year about 100 persons out of the Vizier’s own house; and really, those that are forc’t to stay by it value it no more then we do an ague. But this is the same amongst Jewes, Greeks, Armenians, and every body else.
Mr. North[371] staid in Adrianople all the time, and come to us every day; I went to him severall times, and as I live I valued no more to meet a dead corps then a dead calf. Yet I have met above 20 in a morning, going from our tents to Mr. North’s house; and there is more danger in passing by the clothes of the living then in touching the body of the dead. All slaves and poor people, so soon as they are dead, are wrapt in some pittiful covering (perhaps nothing but an old mat), and so laid upon a Hamál’s or porter’s back, and caryed away to his grave, without any more adoe. Infinites of Turkes came out of the Town and lived in Tents, as well as we; yet many Turkes came or sent out their women to their countrey houses there. I chanc’t to see a couple of very lovely women severall times, which came and lived in a fine house just by me, and being under the government of onely one poor silly old man, they would get out into a great garden there hard by, and romp and play the rogue like little sprites; but more of that between ourselves.