Barmouth, August 9th.—To-day we saw the cathedral at Chester; and, far more delightful, saw and heard a certain inimitable verger who took us round.  He was full of a certain recondite, far-away humour that did not quite make you laugh at the time, but was somehow laughable to recollect.  Moreover, he had so far a just imagination, and could put one in the right humour for seeing an old place, very much as, according to my favourite text, Scott’s novels and poems do for one.  His account of the monks in the Scriptorium, with their cowls over their heads, in a certain sheltered angle of the cloister where the big Cathedral building kept the sun off the parchments, was all that could be wished; and so too was what he added of the others pacing solemnly behind them and dropping, ever and again, on their knees before a little shrine there is in the wall, ‘to keep ’em in the frame of mind.’  You will begin to think me unduly biassed in this verger’s favour if I go on to tell you his opinion of me.  We got into a little side chapel, whence we could hear the choir children at practice, and I stopped a moment listening to them, with, I dare say, a very bright face, for the sound was delightful to me.  ‘Ah,’ says he, ‘you’re very fond of music.’  I said I was.  ‘Yes, I could tell that by your head,’ he answered.  ‘There’s a deal in that head.’  And he shook his own solemnly.  I said it might be so, but I found it hard, at least, to get it out.  Then my father cut in brutally, said anyway I had no ear, and left the verger so distressed and shaken in the foundations of his creed that, I hear, he got my father aside afterwards and said he was sure there was something in my face, and wanted to know what it was, if not music.  He was relieved when he heard that I occupied myself with litterature (which word, note here, I do not spell correctly).  Good-night, and here’s the verger’s health!

R. L. S.

to Mrs. Sitwell

Swanston, Wednesday, [Autumn] 1874.

I have been hard at work all yesterday, and besides had to write a long letter to Bob, so I found no time until quite late, and then was sleepy.  Last night it blew a fearful gale; I was kept awake about a couple of hours, and could not get to sleep for the horror of the wind’s noise; the whole house shook; and, mind you, our house is a house, a great castle of jointed stone that would weigh up a street of English houses; so that when it quakes, as it did last night, it means something.  But the quaking was not what put me about; it was the horrible howl of the wind round the corner; the audible haunting of an incarnate anger about the house; the evil spirit that was abroad; and, above all, the shuddering silent pauses when the storm’s heart stands dreadfully still for a moment.  O how I hate a storm at night!  They have been a great influence in my life, I am sure; for I can remember them so far back—long before I was six at least, for we left the house in which I remember listening to them times without number when I was six.  And in those days the storm had for me a perfect impersonation, as durable and unvarying as any heathen deity.  I always heard it, as a horseman riding past with his cloak about his head, and somehow always carried away, and riding past again, and being baffled yet once more, ad infinitum, all night long.  I think I wanted him to get past, but I am not sure; I know only that I had some interest either for or against in the matter; and I used to lie and hold my breath, not quite frightened, but in a state of miserable exaltation.

My first John Knox is in proof, and my second is on the anvil.  It is very good of me so to do; for I want so much to get to my real tour and my sham tour, the real tour first: it is always working in my head, and if I can only turn on the right sort of style at the right moment, I am not much afraid of it.  One thing bothers me; what with hammering at this J. K., and writing necessary letters, and taking necessary exercise (that even not enough, the weather is so repulsive to me, cold and windy), I find I have no time for reading except times of fatigue, when I wish merely to relax myself.  O—and I read over again for this purpose Flaubert’s Tentation de St. Antoine; it struck me a good deal at first, but this second time it has fetched me immensely.  I am but just done with it, so you will know the large proportion of salt to take with my present statement, that it’s the finest thing I ever read!  Of course, it isn’t that, it’s full of longueurs, and is not quite ‘redd up,’ as we say in Scotland, not quite articulated; but there are splendid things in it.

I say, do take your maccaroni with oil: do, please.  It’s beastly with butter.—Ever your faithful friend,

Robert Louis Stevenson.

to Mrs. Sitwell

[Edinburgh], December 23, 1874.

Monday.—I have come from a concert, and the concert was rather a disappointment.  Not so my afternoon skating—Duddingston, our big loch, is bearing; and I wish you could have seen it this afternoon, covered with people, in thin driving snow flurries, the big hill grim and white and alpine overhead in the thick air, and the road up the gorge, as it were into the heart of it, dotted black with traffic.  Moreover, I can skate a little bit; and what one can do is always pleasant to do.

Tuesday.—I got your letter to-day, and was so glad thereof.  It was of good omen to me also.  I worked from ten to one (my classes are suspended now for Xmas holidays), and wrote four or five Portfolio pages of my Buckinghamshire affair.  Then I went to Duddingston and skated all afternoon.  If you had seen the moon rising, a perfect sphere of smoky gold, in the dark air above the trees, and the white loch thick with skaters, and the great hill, snow-sprinkled, overhead!  It was a sight for a king.

Wednesday.—I stayed on Duddingston to-day till after nightfall.  The little booths that hucksters set up round the edge were marked each one by its little lamp.  There were some fires too; and the light, and the shadows of the people who stood round them to warm themselves, made a strange pattern all round on the snow-covered ice.  A few people with torches began to travel up and down the ice, a lit circle travelling along with them over the snow.  A gigantic moon rose, meanwhile, over the trees and the kirk on the promontory, among perturbed and vacillating clouds.

The walk home was very solemn and strange.  Once, through a broken gorge, we had a glimpse of a little space of mackerel sky, moon-litten, on the other side of the hill; the broken ridges standing grey and spectral between; and the hilltop over all, snow-white, and strangely magnified in size.

This must go to you to-morrow, so that you may read it on Christmas Day for company.  I hope it may be good company to you.

Thursday.—Outside, it snows thick and steadily.  The gardens before our house are now a wonderful fairy forest.  And O, this whiteness of things, how I love it, how it sends the blood about my body!  Maurice de Guérin hated snow; what a fool he must have been!  Somebody tried to put me out of conceit with it by saying that people were lost in it.  As if people don’t get lost in love, too, and die of devotion to art; as if everything worth were not an occasion to some people’s end.

What a wintry letter this is!  Only I think it is winter seen from the inside of a warm greatcoat.  And there is, at least, a warm heart about it somewhere.  Do you know, what they say in Xmas stories is true?  I think one loves their friends more dearly at this season.—Ever your faithful friend,

Robert Louis Stevenson.

to Sidney Colvin

17 Heriot Road, Edinburgh [January 1875].

MY DEAR COLVIN,—I have worked too hard; I have given myself one day of rest, and that was not enough; so I am giving myself another.  I shall go to bed again likewise so soon as this is done, and slumber most potently.

9 P.M., slept all afternoon like a lamb.

About my coming south, I think the still small unanswerable voice of coins will make it impossible until the session is over (end of March); but for all that, I think I shall hold out jolly.  I do not want you to come and bother yourself; indeed, it is still not quite certain whether my father will be quite fit for you, although I have now no fear of that really.  Now don’t take up this wrongly; I wish you could come; and I do not know anything that would make me happier, but I see that it is wrong to expect it, and so I resign myself: some time after.  I offered Appleton a series of papers on the modern French school—the Parnassiens, I think they call them—de Banville, Coppée, Soulary, and Sully Prudhomme.  But he has not deigned to answer my letter.

I shall have another Portfolio paper so soon as I am done with this story, that has played me out; the story is to be called When the Devil was well: scene, Italy, Renaissance; colour, purely imaginary of course, my own unregenerate idea of what Italy then was.  O, when shall I find the story of my dreams, that shall never halt nor wander nor step aside, but go ever before its face, and ever swifter and louder, until the pit receives it, roaring?  The Portfolio paper will be about Scotland and England.—Ever yours,

R. L. Stevenson.

to Mrs. Sitwell

Edinburgh, Tuesday [February 1875].

I got your nice long gossiping letter to-day—I mean by that that there was more news in it than usual—and so, of course, I am pretty jolly.  I am in the house, however, with such a beastly cold in the head.  Our east winds begin already to be very cold.

O, I have such a longing for children of my own; and yet I do not think I could bear it if I had one.  I fancy I must feel more like a woman than like a man about that.  I sometimes hate the children I see on the street—you know what I mean by hate—wish they were somewhere else, and not there to mock me; and sometimes, again, I don’t know how to go by them for the love of them, especially the very wee ones.

Thursday.—I have been still in the house since I wrote, and I have worked.  I finished the Italian story; not well, but as well as I can just now; I must go all over it again, some time soon, when I feel in the humour to better and perfect it.  And now I have taken up an old story, begun years ago; and I have now re-written all I had written of it then, and mean to finish it.  What I have lost and gained is odd.  As far as regards simple writing, of course, I am in another world now; but in some things, though more clumsy, I seem to have been freer and more plucky: this is a lesson I have taken to heart.  I have got a jolly new name for my old story.  I am going to call it A Country Dance; the two heroes keep changing places, you know; and the chapter where the most of this changing goes on is to be called ‘Up the middle, down the middle.’  It will be in six, or (perhaps) seven chapters.  I have never worked harder in my life than these last four days.  If I can only keep it up.

Saturday.—Yesterday, Leslie Stephen, who was down here to lecture, called on me and took me up to see a poor fellow, a poet who writes for him, and who has been eighteen months in our infirmary, and may be, for all I know, eighteen months more.  It was very sad to see him there, in a little room with two beds, and a couple of sick children in the other bed; a girl came in to visit the children, and played dominoes on the counterpane with them; the gas flared and crackled, the fire burned in a dull economical way; Stephen and I sat on a couple of chairs, and the poor fellow sat up in his bed with his hair and beard all tangled, and talked as cheerfully as if he had been in a King’s palace, or the great King’s palace of the blue air.  He has taught himself two languages since he has been lying there.  I shall try to be of use to him.

We have had two beautiful spring days, mild as milk, windy withal, and the sun hot.  I dreamed last night I was walking by moonlight round the place where the scene of my story is laid; it was all so quiet and sweet, and the blackbirds were singing as if it was day; it made my heart very cool and happy.—Ever yours,

Robert Louis Stevenson.

to Sidney Colvin

February 8, 1875.

MY DEAR COLVIN,—Forgive my bothering you.  Here is the proof of my second Knox.  Glance it over, like a good fellow, and if there’s anything very flagrant send it to me marked.  I have no confidence in myself; I feel such an ass.  What have I been doing?  As near as I can calculate, nothing.  And yet I have worked all this month from three to five hours a day, that is to say, from one to three hours more than my doctor allows me; positively no result.

No, I can write no article just now; I am pioching, like a madman, at my stories, and can make nothing of them; my simplicity is tame and dull—my passion tinsel, boyish, hysterical.  Never mind—ten years hence, if I live, I shall have learned, so help me God.  I know one must work, in the meantime (so says Balzac) comme le mineur enfoui sous un éboulement.

J’y parviendrai, nom de nom de nom!  But it’s a long look forward.—Ever yours,

R. L. S.

to Mrs. Sitwell

[Barbizon, April 1875.]

MY DEAR FRIEND,—This is just a line to say I am well and happy.  I am here in my dear forest all day in the open air.  It is very be—no, not beautiful exactly, just now, but very bright and living.  There are one or two song birds and a cuckoo; all the fruit-trees are in flower, and the beeches make sunshine in a shady place, I begin to go all right; you need not be vexed about my health; I really was ill at first, as bad as I have been for nearly a year; but the forest begins to work, and the air, and the sun, and the smell of the pines.  If I could stay a month here, I should be as right as possible.  Thanks for your letter.—Your faithful

R. L. S.

to Mrs. Sitwell

17 Heriot Row, Edinburgh, Sunday [April 1875].

Here is my long story: yesterday night, after having supped, I grew so restless that I was obliged to go out in search of some excitement.  There was a half-moon lying over on its back, and incredibly bright in the midst of a faint grey sky set with faint stars: a very inartistic moon, that would have damned a picture.

At the most populous place of the city I found a little boy, three years old perhaps, half frantic with terror, and crying to every one for his ‘Mammy.’  This was about eleven, mark you.  People stopped and spoke to him, and then went on, leaving him more frightened than before.  But I and a good-humoured mechanic came up together; and I instantly developed a latent faculty for setting the hearts of children at rest.  Master Tommy Murphy (such was his name) soon stopped crying, and allowed me to take him up and carry him; and the mechanic and I trudged away along Princes Street to find his parents.  I was soon so tired that I had to ask the mechanic to carry the bairn; and you should have seen the puzzled contempt with which he looked at me, for knocking in so soon.  He was a good fellow, however, although very impracticable and sentimental; and he soon bethought him that Master Murphy might catch cold after his excitement, so we wrapped him up in my greatcoat.  ‘Tobauga (Tobago) Street’ was the address he gave us; and we deposited him in a little grocer’s shop and went through all the houses in the street without being able to find any one of the name of Murphy.  Then I set off to the head police office, leaving my greatcoat in pawn about Master Murphy’s person.  As I went down one of the lowest streets in the town, I saw a little bit of life that struck me.  It was now half-past twelve, a little shop stood still half-open, and a boy of four or five years old was walking up and down before it imitating cockcrow.  He was the only living creature within sight.

At the police offices no word of Master Murphy’s parents; so I went back empty-handed.  The good groceress, who had kept her shop open all this time, could keep the child no longer; her father, bad with bronchitis, said he must forth.  So I got a large scone with currants in it, wrapped my coat about Tommy, got him up on my arm, and away to the police office with him: not very easy in my mind, for the poor child, young as he was—he could scarce speak—was full of terror for the ‘office,’ as he called it.  He was now very grave and quiet and communicative with me; told me how his father thrashed him, and divers household matters.  Whenever he saw a woman on our way he looked after her over my shoulder and then gave his judgment: ‘That’s no her,’ adding sometimes, ‘She has a wean wi’ her.’  Meantime I was telling him how I was going to take him to a gentleman who would find out his mother for him quicker than ever I could, and how he must not be afraid of him, but be brave, as he had been with me.  We had just arrived at our destination—we were just under the lamp—when he looked me in the face and said appealingly, ‘He’ll no put—me in the office?’  And I had to assure him that he would not, even as I pushed open the door and took him in.

The serjeant was very nice, and I got Tommy comfortably seated on a bench, and spirited him up with good words and the scone with the currants in it; and then, telling him I was just going out to look for Mammy, I got my greatcoat and slipped away.

Poor little boy! he was not called for, I learn, until ten this morning.  This is very ill written, and I’ve missed half that was picturesque in it; but to say truth, I am very tired and sleepy: it was two before I got to bed.  However, you see, I had my excitement.

 

Monday.—I have written nothing all morning; I cannot settle to it.  Yes—I will though.

 

10.45.—And I did.  I want to say something more to you about the three women.  I wonder so much why they should have been women, and halt between two opinions in the matter.  Sometimes I think it is because they were made by a man for men; sometimes, again, I think there is an abstract reason for it, and there is something more substantive about a woman than ever there can be about a man.  I can conceive a great mythical woman, living alone among inaccessible mountain-tops or in some lost island in the pagan seas, and ask no more.  Whereas if I hear of a Hercules, I ask after Iole or Dejanira.  I cannot think him a man without women.  But I can think of these three deep-breasted women, living out all their days on remote hilltops, seeing the white dawn and the purple even, and the world outspread before them for ever, and no more to them for ever than a sight of the eyes, a hearing of the ears, a far-away interest of the inflexible heart, not pausing, not pitying, but austere with a holy austerity, rigid with a calm and passionless rigidity; and I find them none the less women to the end.

And think, if one could love a woman like that once, see her once grow pale with passion, and once wring your lips out upon hers, would it not be a small thing to die?  Not that there is not a passion of a quite other sort, much less epic, far more dramatic and intimate, that comes out of the very frailty of perishable women; out of the lines of suffering that we see written about their eyes, and that we may wipe out if it were but for a moment; out of the thin hands, wrought and tempered in agony to a fineness of perception, that the indifferent or the merely happy cannot know; out of the tragedy that lies about such a love, and the pathetic incompleteness.  This is another thing, and perhaps it is a higher.  I look over my shoulder at the three great headless Madonnas, and they look back at me and do not move; see me, and through and over me, the foul life of the city dying to its embers already as the night draws on; and over miles and miles of silent country, set here and there with lit towns, thundered through here and there with night expresses scattering fire and smoke; and away to the ends of the earth, and the furthest star, and the blank regions of nothing; and they are not moved.  My quiet, great-kneed, deep-breasted, well-draped ladies of Necessity, I give my heart to you!

R. L. S.

to Mrs. Sitwell

[Swanston, Tuesday, April 1875.]

MY DEAR FRIEND,—I have been so busy, away to Bridge Of Allan with my father first, and then with Simpson and Baxter out here from Saturday till Monday.  I had no time to write, and, as it is, am strangely incapable.  Thanks for your letter.  I have been reading such lots of law, and it seems to take away the power of writing from me.  From morning to night, so often as I have a spare moment, I am in the embrace of a law book—barren embraces.  I am in good spirits; and my heart smites me as usual, when I am in good spirits, about my parents.  If I get a bit dull, I am away to London without a scruple; but so long as my heart keeps up, I am all for my parents.

What do you think of Henley’s hospital verses?  They were to have been dedicated to me, but Stephen wouldn’t allow it—said it would be pretentious.

Wednesday.—I meant to have made this quite a decent letter this morning, but listen.  I had pain all last night, and did not sleep well, and now am cold and sickish, and strung up ever and again with another flash of pain.  Will you remember me to everybody?  My principal characteristics are cold, poverty, and Scots Law—three very bad things.  Oo, how the rain falls!  The mist is quite low on the hill.  The birds are twittering to each other about the indifferent season.  O, here’s a gem for you.  An old godly woman predicted the end of the world, because the seasons were becoming indistinguishable; my cousin Dora objected that last winter had been pretty well marked.  ‘Yes, my dear,’ replied the soothsayeress; ‘but I think you’ll find the summer will be rather coamplicated.’—Ever your faithful

R. L. S.

to Mrs. Sitwell

[Edinburgh, Saturday, April 1875.]

I am getting on with my rehearsals, but I find the part very hard.  I rehearsed yesterday from a quarter to seven, and to-day from four (with interval for dinner) to eleven.  You see the sad strait I am in for ink.—À demain.

 

Sunday.—This is the third ink-bottle I have tried, and still it’s nothing to boast of.  My journey went off all right, and I have kept ever in good spirits.  Last night, indeed, I did think my little bit of gaiety was going away down the wind like a whiff of tobacco smoke, but to-day it has come back to me a little.  The influence of this place is assuredly all that can be worst against one; mail il faut lutter.  I was haunted last night when I was in bed by the most cold, desolate recollections of my past life here; I was glad to try and think of the forest, and warm my hands at the thought of it.  O the quiet, grey thickets, and the yellow butterflies, and the woodpeckers, and the outlook over the plain as it were over a sea!  O for the good, fleshly stupidity of the woods, the body conscious of itself all over and the mind forgotten, the clean air nestling next your skin as though your clothes were gossamer, the eye filled and content, the whole MAN HAPPY!  Whereas here it takes a pull to hold yourself together; it needs both hands, and a book of stoical maxims, and a sort of bitterness at the heart by way of armour.—Ever your faithful

 

R. L. S.

Wednesday.—I am so played out with a cold in my eye that I cannot see to write or read without difficulty.  It is swollen horrible; so how I shall look as Orsino, God knows!  I have my fine clothes tho’.  Henley’s sonnets have been taken for the Cornhill.  He is out of hospital now, and dressed, but still not too much to brag of in health, poor fellow, I am afraid.

 

Sunday.—So.  I have still rather bad eyes, and a nasty sore throat.  I play Orsino every day, in all the pomp of Solomon, splendid Francis the First clothes, heavy with gold and stage jewellery.  I play it ill enough, I believe; but me and the clothes, and the wedding wherewith the clothes and me are reconciled, produce every night a thrill of admiration.  Our cook told my mother (there is a servants’ night, you know) that she and the housemaid were ‘just prood to be able to say it was oor young gentleman.’  To sup afterwards with these clothes on, and a wonderful lot of gaiety and Shakespearean jokes about the table, is something to live for.  It is so nice to feel you have been dead three hundred years, and the sound of your laughter is faint and far off in the centuries.—Ever your faithful

Robert Louis Stevenson.

Wednesday.—A moment at last.  These last few days have been as jolly as days could be, and by good fortune I leave to-morrow for Swanston, so that I shall not feel the whole fall back to habitual self.  The pride of life could scarce go further.  To live in splendid clothes, velvet and gold and fur, upon principally champagne and lobster salad, with a company of people nearly all of whom are exceptionally good talkers; when your days began about eleven and ended about four—I have lost that sentence; I give it up; it is very admirable sport, any way.  Then both my afternoons have been so pleasantly occupied—taking Henley drives.  I had a business to carry him down the long stair, and more of a business to get him up again, but while he was in the carriage it was splendid.  It is now just the top of spring with us.  The whole country is mad with green.  To see the cherry-blossom bitten out upon the black firs, and the black firs bitten out of the blue sky, was a sight to set before a king.  You may imagine what it was to a man who has been eighteen months in an hospital ward.  The look of his face was a wine to me.

I shall send this off to-day to let you know of my new address—Swanston Cottage, Lothianburn, Edinburgh.  Salute the faithful in my name.  Salute Priscilla, salute Barnabas, salute Ebenezer—O no, he’s too much, I withdraw Ebenezer; enough of early Christians.—Ever your faithful

Robert Louis Stevenson.

to Mrs. Sitwell

[Edinburgh, June 1875.]

Simply a scratch.  All right, jolly, well, and through with the difficulty.  My father pleased about the Burns.  Never travel in the same carriage with three able-bodied seamen and a fruiterer from Kent; the A.-B.’s speak all night as though they were hailing vessels at sea; and the fruiterer as if he were crying fruit in a noisy market-place—such, at least, is my funeste experience.  I wonder if a fruiterer from some place else—say Worcestershire—would offer the same phenomena? insoluble doubt.

R. L. S.

Later.—Forgive me, couldn’t get it off.  Awfully nice man here to-night.  Public servant—New Zealand.  Telling us all about the South Sea Islands till I was sick with desire to go there: beautiful places, green for ever; perfect climate; perfect shapes of men and women, with red flowers in their hair; and nothing to do but to study oratory and etiquette, sit in the sun, and pick up the fruits as they fall.  Navigator’s Island is the place; absolute balm for the weary.—Ever your faithful friend,

R. L. S.

to Mrs. Sitwell

SwanstonEnd of June, 1875.

Thursday.—This day fortnight I shall fall or conquer.  Outside the rain still soaks; but now and again the hilltop looks through the mist vaguely.  I am very comfortable, very sleepy, and very much satisfied with the arrangements of Providence.

 

Saturdayno, Sunday, 12.45.—Just been—not grinding, alas!—I couldn’t—but doing a bit of Fontainebleau.  I don’t think I’ll be plucked.  I am not sure though—I am so busy, what with this d-d law, and this Fontainebleau always at my elbow, and three plays (three, think of that!) and a story, all crying out to me, ‘Finish, finish, make an entire end, make us strong, shapely, viable creatures!’  It’s enough to put a man crazy.  Moreover, I have my thesis given out now, which is a fifth (is it fifth? I can’t count) incumbrance.

 

Sunday.—I’ve been to church, and am not depressed—a great step.  I was at that beautiful church my petit poëme en prose was about.  It is a little cruciform place, with heavy cornices and string course to match, and a steep slate roof.  The small kirkyard is full of old grave-stones.  One of a Frenchman from Dunkerque—I suppose he died prisoner in the military prison hard by—and one, the most pathetic memorial I ever saw, a poor school-slate, in a wooden frame, with the inscription cut into it evidently by the father’s own hand.  In church, old Mr. Torrence preached—over eighty, and a relic of times forgotten, with his black thread gloves and mild old foolish face.  One of the nicest parts of it was to see John Inglis, the greatest man in Scotland, our Justice-General, and the only born lawyer I ever heard, listening to the piping old body, as though it had all been a revelation, grave and respectful.—Ever your faithful

R. L. S.

III
ADVOCATE AND AUTHOR
EDINBURGH—PARIS—FONTAINEBLEAU
JULY 1875-JULY 1879

to Mrs. Thomas Stevenson

[Chez Siron, Barbizon, Seine et Marne, August 1875.]

MY DEAR MOTHER,—I have been three days at a place called Grez, a pretty and very melancholy village on the plain.  A low bridge of many arches choked with sedge; great fields of white and yellow water-lilies; poplars and willows innumerable; and about it all such an atmosphere of sadness and slackness, one could do nothing but get into the boat and out of it again, and yawn for bedtime.

Yesterday Bob and I walked home; it came on a very creditable thunderstorm; we were soon wet through; sometimes the rain was so heavy that one could only see by holding the hand over the eyes; and to crown all, we lost our way and wandered all over the place, and into the artillery range, among broken trees, with big shot lying about among the rocks.  It was near dinner-time when we got to Barbizon; and it is supposed that we walked from twenty-three to twenty-five miles, which is not bad for the Advocate, who is not tired this morning.  I was very glad to be back again in this dear place, and smell the wet forest in the morning.

Simpson and the rest drove back in a carriage, and got about as wet as we did.

Why don’t you write?  I have no more to say.—Ever your affectionate son,

Robert Louis Stevenson.

to Mrs. Sitwell

Château Renard, Loiret, August 1875.

. . . I have been walking these last days from place to place; and it does make it hot for walking with a sack in this weather.  I am burned in horrid patches of red; my nose, I fear, is going to take the lead in colour; Simpson is all flushed, as if he were seen by a sunset.  I send you here two rondeaux; I don’t suppose they will amuse anybody but me; but this measure, short and yet intricate, is just what I desire; and I have had some good times walking along the glaring roads, or down the poplar alley of the great canal, pitting my own humour to this old verse.

Far have you come, my lady, from the town,
And far from all your sorrows, if you please,
To smell the good sea-winds and hear the seas,
And in green meadows lay your body down.

To find your pale face grow from pale to brown,
Your sad eyes growing brighter by degrees;
Far have you come, my lady, from the town,
And far from all your sorrows, if you please.

Here in this seaboard land of old renown,
In meadow grass go wading to the knees;
Bathe your whole soul a while in simple ease;
There is no sorrow but the sea can drown;
Far have you come, my lady, from the town.

Nous n’irons plus au bois.

We’ll walk the woods no more,
But stay beside the fire,
To weep for old desire
And things that are no more.
     
The woods are spoiled and hoar,
The ways are full of mire;
We’ll walk the woods no more,
But stay beside the fire.
      We loved, in days of yore,
Love, laughter, and the lyre.
Ah God, but death is dire,
And death is at the door—
We’ll walk the woods no more.

Robert Louis Stevenson.

to Sidney Colvin

Edinburgh, [Autumn] 1875.

MY DEAR COLVIN,—Thanks for your letter and news.  No—my Burns is not done yet, it has led me so far afield that I cannot finish it; every time I think I see my way to an end, some new game (or perhaps wild goose) starts up, and away I go.  And then, again, to be plain, I shirk the work of the critical part, shirk it as a man shirks a long jump.  It is awful to have to express and differentiate Burns in a column or two.  O golly, I say, you know, it can’t be done at the money.  All the more as I’m going to write a book about it.  Ramsay, Fergusson, and Burns: an Essay (or a critical essay? but then I’m going to give lives of the three gentlemen, only the gist of the book is the criticism) by Robert Louis Stevenson, Advocate.  How’s that for cut and dry?  And I could write this book.  Unless I deceive myself, I could even write it pretty adequately.  I feel as if I was really in it, and knew the game thoroughly.  You see what comes of trying to write an essay on Burns in ten columns.

Meantime, when I have done Burns, I shall finish Charles of Orleans (who is in a good way, about the fifth month, I should think, and promises to be a fine healthy child, better than any of his elder brothers for a while); and then perhaps a Villon, for Villon is a very essential part of my Ramsay-Fergusson-Burns; I mean, is a note in it, and will recur again and again for comparison and illustration; then, perhaps, I may try Fontainebleau, by the way.  But so soon as Charles of Orleans is polished off, and immortalised for ever, he and his pipings, in a solid imperishable shrine of R. L. S., my true aim and end will be this little book.  Suppose I could jerk you out 100 Cornhill pages; that would easy make 200 pages of decent form; and then thickish paper—eh? would that do?  I dare say it could be made bigger; but I know what 100 pages of copy, bright consummate copy, imply behind the scenes of weary manuscribing; I think if I put another nothing to it, I should not be outside the mark; and 100 Cornhill pages of 500 words means, I fancy (but I never was good at figures), means 500,00 words.  There’s a prospect for an idle young gentleman who lives at home at ease!  The future is thick with inky fingers.  And then perhaps nobody would publish.  Ah nom de dieu!  What do you think of all this? will it paddle, think you?

I hope this pen will write; it is the third I have tried.

About coming up, no, that’s impossible; for I am worse than a bankrupt.  I have at the present six shillings and a penny; I have a sounding lot of bills for Christmas; new dress suit, for instance, the old one having gone for Parliament House; and new white shirts to live up to my new profession; I’m as gay and swell and gummy as can be; only all my boots leak; one pair water, and the other two simple black mud; so that my rig is more for the eye, than a very solid comfort to myself.  That is my budget.  Dismal enough, and no prospect of any coin coming in; at least for months.  So that here I am, I almost fear, for the winter; certainly till after Christmas, and then it depends on how my bills ‘turn out’ whether it shall not be till spring.  So, meantime, I must whistle in my cage.  My cage is better by one thing; I am an Advocate now.  If you ask me why that makes it better, I would remind you that in the most distressing circumstances a little consequence goes a long way, and even bereaved relatives stand on precedence round the coffin.  I idle finely.  I read Boswell’s Life of Johnson, Martin’s History of France, Allan Ramsay, Olivier Bosselin, all sorts of rubbish, àpropos of Burns, Commines, Juvénal des Ursins, etc.  I walk about the Parliament House five forenoons a week, in wig and gown; I have either a five or six mile walk, or an hour or two hard skating on the rink, every afternoon, without fail.

I have not written much; but, like the seaman’s parrot in the tale, I have thought a deal.  You have never, by the way, returned me either Spring or Béranger, which is certainly a d-d shame.  I always comforted myself with that when my conscience pricked me about a letter to you.  ‘Thus conscience’—O no, that’s not appropriate in this connection.—Ever yours,

Robert Louis Stevenson.

I say, is there any chance of your coming north this year?  Mind you that promise is now more respectable for age than is becoming.

R. L. S.

to Charles Baxter

[Edinburgh, October 1875.]

Noo lyart leaves blaw ower the green,
Red are the bonny woods o’ Dean,
An’ here we’re back in Embro, freen’,
      To pass the winter.
Whilk noo, wi’ frosts afore, draws in,
      An’ snaws ahint her.

I’ve seen’s hae days to fricht us a’,
The Pentlands poothered weel wi’ snaw,
The ways half-smoored wi’ liquid thaw,
      An’ half-congealin’,
The snell an’ scowtherin’ norther blaw
      Frae blae Brunteelan’.

I’ve seen’s been unco sweir to sally,
And at the door-cheeks daff an’ dally,
Seen’s daidle thus an’ shilly-shally
      For near a minute—
Sae cauld the wind blew up the valley,
      The deil was in it!—

Syne spread the silk an’ tak the gate,
In blast an’ blaudin’ rain, deil hae’t!
The hale toon glintin’, stane an’ slate,
      Wi’ cauld an’ weet,
An’ to the Court, gin we’se be late,
      Bicker oor feet.

And at the Court, tae, aft I saw
Whaur Advocates by twa an’ twa
Gang gesterin’ end to end the ha’
      In weeg an’ goon,
To crack o’ what ye wull but Law
      The hale forenoon.

That muckle ha,’ maist like a kirk,
I’ve kent at braid mid-day sae mirk
Ye’d seen white weegs an’ faces lurk
      Like ghaists frae Hell,
But whether Christian ghaist or Turk
      Deil ane could tell.

The three fires lunted in the gloom,
The wind blew like the blast o’ doom,
The rain upo’ the roof abune
      Played Peter Dick—
Ye wad nae’d licht enough i’ the room
      Your teeth to pick!

But, freend, ye ken how me an’ you,
The ling-lang lanely winter through,
Keep’d a guid speerit up, an’ true
      To lore Horatian,
We aye the ither bottle drew
      To inclination.

Sae let us in the comin’ days
Stand sicker on our auncient ways—
The strauchtest road in a’ the maze
      Since Eve ate apples;
An’ let the winter weet our cla’es—
      We’ll weet oor thrapples.

to Sidney Colvin

[Edinburgh, Autumn 1875.]

MY DEAR COLVIN,—Fous ne me gombrennez pas.  Angry with you?  No.  Is the thing lost?  Well, so be it.  There is one masterpiece fewer in the world.  The world can ill spare it, but I, sir, I (and here I strike my hollow bosom so that it resounds) I am full of this sort of bauble; I am made of it; it comes to me, sir, as the desire to sneeze comes upon poor ordinary devils on cold days, when they should be getting out of bed and into their horrid cold tubs by the light of a seven o’clock candle, with the dismal seven o’clock frost-flowers all over the window.

Show Stephen what you please; if you could show him how to give me money, you would oblige, sincerely yours,

R. L. S.

I have a scroll of Springtime somewhere, but I know that it is not in very good order, and do not feel myself up to very much grind over it.  I am damped about Springtime, that’s the truth of it.  It might have been four or five quid!

Sir, I shall shave my head, if this goes on.  All men take a pleasure to gird at me.  The laws of nature are in open war with me.  The wheel of a dog-cart took the toes off my new boots.  Gout has set in with extreme rigour, and cut me out of the cheap refreshment of beer.  I leant my back against an oak, I thought it was a trusty tree, but first it bent, and syne—it lost the Spirit of Springtime, and so did Professor Sidney Colvin, Trinity College, to me.—Ever yours,

Robert Louis Stevenson.

Along with this, I send you some P.P.P’s; if you lose them, you need not seek to look upon my face again.  Do, for God’s sake, answer me about them also; it is a horrid thing for a fond architect to find his monuments received in silence.—Yours,

R. L. S.

to Mrs. Sitwell

[Edinburgh, November 12, 1875.]

MY DEAR FRIEND,—Since I got your letter I have been able to do a little more work, and I have been much better contented with myself; but I can’t get away, that is absolutely prevented by the state of my purse and my debts, which, I may say, are red like crimson.  I don’t know how I am to clear my hands of them, nor when, not before Christmas anyway.  Yesterday I was twenty-five; so please wish me many happy returns—directly.  This one was not unhappy anyway.  I have got back a good deal into my old random, little-thought way of life, and do not care whether I read, write, speak, or walk, so long as I do something.  I have a great delight in this wheel-skating; I have made great advance in it of late, can do a good many amusing things (I mean amusing in my sense—amusing to do).  You know, I lose all my forenoons at Court!  So it is, but the time passes; it is a great pleasure to sit and hear cases argued or advised.  This is quite autobiographical, but I feel as if it was some time since we met, and I can tell you, I am glad to meet you again.  In every way, you see, but that of work the world goes well with me.  My health is better than ever it was before; I get on without any jar, nay, as if there never had been a jar, with my parents.  If it weren’t about that work, I’d be happy.  But the fact is, I don’t think—the fact is, I’m going to trust in Providence about work.  If I could get one or two pieces I hate out of my way all would be well, I think; but these obstacles disgust me, and as I know I ought to do them first, I don’t do anything.  I must finish this off, or I’ll just lose another day.  I’ll try to write again soon.—Ever your faithful friend,

R. L. S.

to Mrs. de Mattos

Edinburgh, January 1876.

MY DEAR KATHARINE,—The prisoner reserved his defence.  He has been seedy, however; principally sick of the family evil, despondency; the sun is gone out utterly; and the breath of the people of this city lies about as a sort of damp, unwholesome fog, in which we go walking with bowed hearts.  If I understand what is a contrite spirit, I have one; it is to feel that you are a small jar, or rather, as I feel myself, a very large jar, of pottery work rather mal réussi, and to make every allowance for the potter (I beg pardon; Potter with a capital P.) on his ill-success, and rather wish he would reduce you as soon as possible to potsherds.  However, there are many things to do yet before we go

Grossir la pâte universelle
Faite des formes que Dieu fond.

For instance, I have never been in a revolution yet.  I pray God I may be in one at the end, if I am to make a mucker.  The best way to make a mucker is to have your back set against a wall and a few lead pellets whiffed into you in a moment, while yet you are all in a heat and a fury of combat, with drums sounding on all sides, and people crying, and a general smash like the infernal orchestration at the end of the Huguenots. . . .

Please pardon me for having been so long of writing, and show your pardon by writing soon to me; it will be a kindness, for I am sometimes very dull.  Edinburgh is much changed for the worse by the absence of Bob; and this damned weather weighs on me like a curse.  Yesterday, or the day before, there came so black a rain squall that I was frightened—what a child would call frightened, you know, for want of a better word—although in reality it has nothing to do with fright.  I lit the gas and sat cowering in my chair until it went away again.—Ever yours,

R. L. S.

O I am trying my hand at a novel just now; it may interest you to know, I am bound to say I do not think it will be a success.  However, it’s an amusement for the moment, and work, work is your only ally against the ‘bearded people’ that squat upon their hams in the dark places of life and embrace people horribly as they go by.  God save us from the bearded people! to think that the sun is still shining in some happy places!

R. L S.

to Mrs. Sitwell

[Edinburgh, January 1876.]

. . . Our weather continues as it was, bitterly cold, and raining often.  There is not much pleasure in life certainly as it stands at present.  Nous n’irons plus au boss, hélas!

I meant to write some more last night, but my father was ill and it put it out of my way.  He is better this morning.

If I had written last night, I should have written a lot.  But this morning I am so dreadfully tired and stupid that I can say nothing.  I was down at Leith in the afternoon.  God bless me, what horrid women I saw; I never knew what a plain-looking race it was before.  I was sick at heart with the looks of them.  And the children, filthy and ragged!  And the smells!  And the fat black mud!

My soul was full of disgust ere I got back.  And yet the ships were beautiful to see, as they are always; and on the pier there was a clean cold wind that smelt a little of the sea, though it came down the Firth, and the sunset had a certain éclat and warmth.  Perhaps if I could get more work done, I should be in a better trim to enjoy filthy streets and people and cold grim weather; but I don’t much feel as if it was what I would have chosen.  I am tempted every day of my life to go off on another walking tour.  I like that better than anything else that I know.—Ever your faithful friend,

Robert Louis Stevenson.

to Sidney Colvin

[Edinburgh, February 1876.]

MY DEAR COLVIN,—1st.  I have sent ‘Fontainebleau’ long ago, long ago.  And Leslie Stephen is worse than tepid about it—liked ‘some parts’ of it ‘very well,’ the son of Belial.  Moreover, he proposes to shorten it; and I, who want money, and money soon, and not glory and the illustration of the English language, I feel as if my poverty were going to consent.

2nd.  I’m as fit as a fiddle after my walk.  I am four inches bigger about the waist than last July!  There, that’s your prophecy did that.  I am on ‘Charles of Orleans’ now, but I don’t know where to send him.  Stephen obviously spews me out of his mouth, and I spew him out of mine, so help me!  A man who doesn’t like my ‘Fontainebleau’!  His head must be turned.

3rd.  If ever you do come across my ‘Spring’ (I beg your pardon for referring to it again, but I don’t want you to forget) send it off at once.

4th.  I went to Ayr, Maybole, Girvan, Ballantrae, Stranraer, Glenluce, and Wigton.  I shall make an article of it some day soon, ‘A Winter’s Walk in Carrick and Galloway.’  I had a good time.—Yours,

R. L S.

to Sidney Colvin

[Swanston Cottage, Lothianburn, July 1876.]

Here I am, here, and very well too.  I am glad you liked ‘Walking Tours’; I like it, too; I think it’s prose; and I own with contrition that I have not always written prose.  However, I am ‘endeavouring after new obedience’ (Scot. Shorter Catechism).  You don’t say aught of ‘Forest Notes,’ which is kind.  There is one, if you will, that was too sweet to be wholesome.

I am at ‘Charles d’Orléans.’  About fifteen Cornhill pages have already coulé’d from under my facile plume—no, I mean eleven, fifteen of MS.—and we are not much more than half-way through, ‘Charles’ and I; but he’s a pleasant companion.  My health is very well; I am in a fine exercisy state.  Baynes is gone to London; if you see him, inquire about my ‘Burns.’  They have sent me £5, 5s, for it, which has mollified me horrid.  £5, 5s. is a good deal to pay for a read of it in MS.; I can’t complain.—Yours,

R. L. S.

to Mrs. Sitwell

[Swanston Cottage, Lothianburn, July 1876.]

. . . I have the strangest repugnance for writing; indeed, I have nearly got myself persuaded into the notion that letters don’t arrive, in order to salve my conscience for never sending them off.  I’m reading a great deal of fifteenth century: Trial of Joan of Arc, Paston Letters, Basin, etc., also Boswell daily by way of a Bible; I mean to read Boswell now until the day I die.  And now and again a bit of Pilgrim’s Progress.  Is that all?  Yes, I think that’s all.  I have a thing in proof for the Cornhill called Virginibus Puerisque.  ‘Charles of Orleans’ is again laid aside, but in a good state of furtherance this time.  A paper called ‘A Defence of Idlers’ (which is really a defence of R. L. S.) is in a good way.  So, you see, I am busy in a tumultuous, knotless sort of fashion; and as I say, I take lots of exercise, and I’m as brown a berry.

This is the first letter I’ve written for—O I don’t know how long.