which anciently existed in the church of St. Alkmund.
This curious tenement, now occupied as several dwellings, forms two sides of a square, and with the exception of its square windows, entirely of Gothic architecture of the fifteenth century.
The projecting stories are supported by elegant springers, enriched like the principal timbers, with carvings of small pointed arches, with trefoil and other ornaments. A cloister of obtusely pointed wooden arches, overspread with rich carvings and delicate mouldings, runs along the ground-story of the front.
Contiguous to St. Alkmund’s is
of whose early foundation in the Saxon times, we possess no particulars. According to Domesday, it held before the Conquest half a hide of land in the city. It was a rectory and royal free chapel with a peculiar jurisdiction, and appears to have been annexed, at a very early period, to the chapel of St. Michael, in the castle. In 1410 the rectory was granted, amongst other things, by Henry IV., to augment his new foundation of Battlefield College, and thenceforth this living became a mere stipendiary curacy. On the dissolution of that college, St. Julian’s was granted by the crown, in 3rd Edward VI. to John Capper and Richard Trevor, and after numerous subsequent transfers, passed into the family of Prince, from whom it has descended to the present patron, the Earl of Tankerville.
The parish comprehends the Wyle, the Wyle Cop, and under the Wyle, and considerable disjointed portions extending wide into the country.
The present church, erected in 1749, on the site of an ancient irregular structure which had become ruinous, is an oblong Grecian building of brick and stone. The interior is handsome and conveniently fitted up. Four Doric pillars on each side of the nave support the ceiling, which is curved and decorated with considerable effect with carved foliated bosses, preserved from the beams of the old church. Over the side aisles, and at the west end, are commodious galleries, in the latter of which is an organ by Fleetwood and Bucer, erected by subscription in 1834. In the central light of the large Venetian window in the chancel, is a figure of St. James in ancient stained glass; and in the side lights are the royal arms, and those of Lichfield and Coventry impaling Cornwallis. The galleries on the north and south are lighted by large circular-headed windows, containing the arms of Queen Elizabeth, the town, and the families of Bowdler, Prynce, and Bennett.
The only existing portion of the old church is the slender square tower at the west end. The basement is of red stone, and has on its eastern side a remarkably acute and lofty arch opening to the nave. From this rises a superstructure of grey stone in the style of the 16th century; the upper chamber of which is lighted on every side by a broad short pointed mullioned window. Above is a frieze of quatrefoil pannels, with grotesque water-spouts projecting from the angles. An embattled parapet, enriched with eight crocketed pinnacles, crowns the summit. In the tower are six bells.
On the exterior of the south wall of the tower is a sculptured stone from the old church, representing St. Juliana within a foliated tabernacle.
The south side of the church was, in 1846, stuccoed over, stone pillars inserted between the windows, and surmounted with a cornice and stone parapet.
The church-yard next the street was also enclosed by a pierced parapet stone wall, and the entire structure substantially repaired at the expense partly of the parish and of the late Rev. R. Scott.
The edifice contains only one monument of any antiquity; a coarse marble slab, inscribed in Longo-bardic capitals, to a member of the family of Trumwin, of Cannock, in Staffordshire.
The modern memorials most worthy of remark, as recording men “useful in their generation,” are those to Mr. John Allatt, the beneficent founder of Allatt’s School; Mr. Robert Lawrence, the public-spirited coach proprietor, to whose exertions we owe the great Holyhead Road, and the establishment of the first mail coach to this town;—and to the elegant-minded Hugh Owen, Archdeacon of Salop, one of the learned authors of the “History of Shrewsbury.”
We now reach
the upper part of the street now called “The Wyle Cop,” which is believed to have been the part first inhabited by the Britons, and was in the immediate vicinity of their Prince’s palace, which occupied the site of Old St. Chad’s church. After the Saxon invasion the town gradually increased towards the north, as is evident from the situation of the churches of St. Alkmund and St. Mary, the former founded in the beginning, and the latter at the end of the 10th century.
On the right-hand side of the Wyle Cop, three doors below the Lion Hotel, is an
in which Henry VII. is reported to have lodged during his short stay in the town, immediately previous to the battle of Bosworth. For the good services which Henry experienced from the burgesses on this occasion, he remitted, on his accession to the throne, ten marks annually for fifty years, of the fee farm at which they held their town, and exempted them from all taxes and contributions. The intercourse which had begun thus favourably was kept up in after years by Henry, who, with his queen and son, frequently visited this town, upon which occasions they were feasted by the Bailiffs in a most royal and hospitable manner.
Opposite to St. Julian’s church is
an ancient red stone building, of whose original erection no particulars are now extant. The high gabled west end fronts the High Street, and displays a pointed window of the 14th century, long since deprived of its mullions. On the east and south sides are remains of similar windows. The interior, formerly in one apartment, is now converted into a dwelling-house and warehouses.
The business of the Shearman consisted in dressing the Welsh webs, by raising the wool on one side. In the reign of Elizabeth great numbers were employed in this process; but subsequent discoveries proving it to be injurious to the texture of the cloth, it was gradually laid aside. Few, if any, Shearmen now remain in our town. The precise date of their incorporation is unknown, though doubtless it was at a very early period.
From entries in their ancient books dated 7th, 8th, and 9th, Edward IV. we learn that the Company constituted the Guild or Fraternity of the Blessed Virgin Mary, whose chauntry was in the north aisle of St. Julian’s Church. From the same documents we find that it was the custom on their festival day, to erect in front of their Hall, a May-pole or green tree, thence called “the Shermen’s Tree;” the bringing in and fixing of which was accompanied with much festivity and expensive jollity. The ceremonies observed on these occasions, doubtless bore considerable resemblance to those practised at the erection of the May-pole on May-day, as described by old writers, when
“Forth goth all the court both most and lest,
To fetch the floures fresh, and braunch and blome.”
During the reign of Puritanism these pastimes caused great disgust to the professors of those principles, and strenuous efforts were used to suppress “the Shermen’s Tree.” Disturbances consequently ensued, in which the Bailiffs of the town appear to have espoused the cause of the Puritans, and even directed their Public Preacher to deliver sermons against the merriment of our honest forefathers.
Adjoining the south side of the Shearmen’s Hall is a large and curious old timber house, called
which forms with it a court, entered from the street by a gateway. These premises were erected in 1568 by George Proude, draper, bailiff in 1569, and member of a family formerly of considerable note in our town.
We now approach the only remaining portion of
consisting of the Lady Chapel on the south side of the choir. The two semicircular arches, still visible in the masonry of the outer walls, communicated with the choir and south transept. The north-west angle is flanked by the great south-eastern pier of the central tower, and at the opposite corner are the remains of a staircase buttress. The southern and eastern sides are each lighted by two pointed windows, three of which are divided by elegant trefoil tracery. The south-western window is plainer, and of an earlier date than the rest. On the outside of the north wall are three stone stalls, with groined roofs, originally on the southern side of the altar, and used by the officiating clergy during the celebration of the mass. The roof is of a plain oak panelling.
This chauntry chapel was first erected in 1496, but having subsequently fallen into decay was nearly re-edified in 1571, at the expense of Humphrey Onslow, Esq. of Onslow, in this parish, for the reception of the altar tomb, (now in the Abbey Church,) of his nephew the Speaker Onslow, who died at Onslow during a visit to his uncle. After the Reformation it acquired the name of the Bishop’s Chancel, from being used as a consistory court at the visitations. Its present use is as a receptacle for the monumental memorials rescued from the wreck of the old church.
This church, when perfect, was a plain heavy, solid pile, totally devoid of ornamental sculpture on the outer walls, and from its situation on a commanding eminence, presented from a distance, a fine, solemn, cathedral-like appearance. It was cruciform, and comprised a nave, side aisles, transept, choir, a broad low central tower, and chauntry chapels north and south of the choir. The architecture was chiefly of the Anglo-Norman and lancet styles of the 13th century, with some subsequent additions of the 15th and 16th centuries. [109]
Early in the summer of 1788 considerable fissures were observed in the north-western pier of the tower, which continuing to increase, Mr. Telford was employed to examine and report the cause. On inspection, it was discovered that the foundations had been undermined by graves heedlessly made too near the walls, and that the pier, in consequence, had given way; that the tower and the whole of the north side of the nave were in a most dangerous state, and the chief timbers of the roof decayed. He recommended that the tower should be immediately taken down, the pier rebuilt, and the other parts of the fabric properly and substantially secured. This reasonable advice through ill-judged economy was fatally rejected, and a stonemason employed to cut away the infirm parts of the pier, and to underbuild it, without lessening any of the incumbent weight of the tower and bells. The workmen accordingly commenced, and proceeded in their operations for two days; but on the third morning, July 9th, 1788, just as the chimes struck four, the ruinous pier gave way, the tower was instantly rent asunder, and falling on the roofs of the nave and transept with a tremendous crash, involved those parts in one indescribable scene of desolation and horror. Many portions of the building still remained standing but so great was the panic occasioned by the catastrophe that they were all immediately taken down, with the exception of the present chapel.
The collegiate establishment of St. Chad consisted of a dean, ten secular canons, and two vicars choral, and was founded soon after the subjugation of Pengwern, in the 8th century, by Offa, king of Mercia, who, as tradition states, converted the palace of the kings of Powis into his first church. In Edward the Confessor’s time, this church held twelve hides of land, which it retained at the compilation of Domesday. Between the years 1086 and 1326, other considerable possessions were acquired by the college, so that at the dissolution their revenues amounted to the clear yearly sum of £49 13s. In 34th Henry VIII. on the apprehension of a dissolution, the last dean, Sir George Lee, granted a lease of the deanery, (with the exception of certain tithes previously disposed of) to Humphrey Onslow, Esq. for sixty-one years, at a rent of £10, and a payment of £4 6s. 8d. to a curate to celebrate divine service in the church. On the dissolution of colleges, 2nd Edward VI., the crown leased the collegiate property to George Beston, Esq. for a term of twenty-one years; and two years afterwards, without any notice being taken of that gentleman’s interest, it was appropriated to the Free Schools, in which it is now vested.
The living, though properly a curacy, has long been styled a vicarage, and is in the patronage of the crown. The incumbent is always the mayor’s chaplain.
This parish is by far the largest in the place, comprising very nearly half the town, and a great extent of the surrounding country.
The day-spring of the Reformation early visited our town. In 1407, Master William Thorpe, a priest, came to Shrewsbury, and mounted the pulpit in St. Chad’s church, from whence he boldly condemned the favourite tenets of popery. Thorpe was in consequence thrown into prison, subsequently conveyed to Lambeth, and after a confinement of several months convened before the Archbishop of Canterbury at Saltwood, on a complaint exhibited against him by “the bailives and worshipful cominalte” of this town. In his examination he candidly admitted the charges laid against him, but adhered to his opinions with manly and unshrinking steadiness. Of the result of the trial and his subsequent history we possess no account.
In the year 1394, this church, which had at that time a wooden steeple covered with lead, was consumed by accidental fire, which extended its ravages to a great portion of the town, then chiefly consisting of timber houses with thatched roofs. The damage sustained was so considerable, that Richard II. remitted the payment of the fee farm of the town for three years towards the repairs.
In 1490, Henry VII., accompanied by his queen and son, Prince Arthur, kept the feast of St. George, (April 23,) in this church. In 1581, Sir Henry Sidney, President of the Council of the Marches, as a Knight of the Garter, kept the feast of St. George, (April 23,) in this town, with great splendour. He marched in solemn procession from the Council House to St. Chad’s Church, the choir of which was fitted up in imitation of St. George’s Chapel, Windsor, and the stalls decorated with the arms of the Knights of the Garter. Sir Henry sat in his proper stall, near that reserved for the Queen; in passing which he bowed with the same respect as if her Majesty had actually been present. On the conclusion of divine service Sir Henry devoted the afternoon to feasting the burgesses.
adjoined the south-western extremity of the church. Its buildings, now converted into three handsome houses, are so entirely modernized, that scarce a vestige is visible, except a portion of the wall adjacent to the church-yard. The outer walls of its precinct may be traced to a considerable distance in the neighbouring gardens.
North of the church-yard, in a close passage called “the Sextry,” are some old timber buildings, once communicating with the church by a covered passage over the street. These were, as is supposed, the dwellings of the Vicars Choral. In this old tenement the attendants of Henry VII. were lodged during his visit to the town in 1496, when the Bailiffs entertained him in almost sumptuous and royal manner. These premises were subsequently used as
though the Company have long since ceased to hold their meetings here. The Company of Mercers, on their union with the Ironmongers and Goldsmiths, received on May 11, 1480, a confirmation of their composition, from Edward V. then Prince of Wales, and resident in Shrewsbury. This fraternity were patrons of the Altar of St. Michael in St. Chad’s Church.
On the south side of the church-yard are
wretched hovels, projecting considerably into the adjoining street of Belmont. They were founded in 1409, by Bennet Tipton, a public brewer, then residing at the College, who, so far as can be ascertained, did not make any provision for the support of the almspeople. An annual rent-charge of £8, charged upon the Lythwood estate by the family of Ireland, and a payment of 2s. 2d. from the Mercers’ Company, constitutes the whole endowment, which is distributed in allowances of 14s. 7½d. per annum to each of the inmates. These tottering habitations, from the want of a fund for judicious repairs, are capable of affording little comfort or accommodation to the infirm tenants, who are nominated by the proprietors of the Lythwood estate.
Opposite to the almshouses are
a handsome house, purchased by the county in 1821, and appropriated to the accommodation of the judges and their retinue during their attendance at the Assizes.
Passing down College Hill, we have on our right the south elevation of the Public Rooms. In this spot previously stood the remains of
an ancient stone mansion, erected in the early part of the 14th century, by Sir Hamo Vaughan, knight, of West Tilbury, in Essex, or by his father, Sir Thomas Vaughan, knight, of Stepney, members of an old Welsh family, probably of the illustrious lineage of Owen Gwyned. By marriage with Eleanor, daughter and heiress of Sir Hamo, Reginald de Mutton, member of a family conspicuous among our early Bailiffs, acquired this property, which thenceforth became, for many generations, the town mansion of the Myttons, and by whose descendant, the late John Mytton, Esq. of Halston, it has been sold. The spacious hall and adjacent apartments now contain
of the Shropshire and North Wales Natural History and Antiquarian Society.
This Society was established on the 26th June, 1835, and has for its object the formation of a Museum and Scientific Library of Natural History, Antiquities, &c. and the collection from every quarter, of accurate information respecting the Natural and General History of the important District of Shropshire and North Wales—its topography, statistics, climate, and meteorological phenomena—its geological structure, mineral, and organic fossils—its mines and collieries—its various animal and vegetable productions.
In order to place the Institution on the most liberal basis, and to render it of the greatest possible public advantage, the property of the Society is vested in the Lords Lieutenant, (for the time being,) of the county of Salop, and of the several counties of North Wales, as Trustees for the permanent use and benefit of the district at large; by which arrangement the perpetuity of the Institution is secured, and the possible dispersion of the Museum, at any future period, effectually guarded against.
The affairs of the Society are under the management of a Council, consisting of a President, and other Officers, elected annually, and twelve Members, of whom six retire by rotation.
All persons proposed to the Council by two Subscribers, and contributing One Guinea annually, are Members of the Society, and have the privilege of admission for themselves and families to the Museum and library, and of introducing Visitors.
To diffuse a taste for Science, periodical meetings of the Society are held, at which scientific communications are read, and popular lectures on the various branches of Natural History delivered.
In addition to the more local objects of the Society, the Museum is open to the reception of any specimens from distant localities, with which the friends of science in various quarters may be induced to enrich it, and which may serve to complete the series, and enhance the scientific value of those indigenous to the district. For this purpose the Council have authority to effect exchanges of the natural products of Shropshire and North Wales, for specimens furnished by the Cabinets of Societies, or Individual Collectors in other parts of the world.
A General Meeting of the Society is held in August, in each year, at which the officers are elected, the Annual Report of the progress of the Society is read, and an appropriate Address delivered by the President.
The Museum and library are open every day, (Sunday excepted); during the summer months, from ten o’clock in the morning until six o’clock in the evening; but in the winter are closed at four o’clock in the evening.
In the same building is
for the purpose of “establishing classes for acquiring elementary instruction in Art, in connexion with existing Public Schools and Institutions, with a view of diffusing a knowledge of Art among all classes of the public, whether artisans, manufacturers, or consumers, and for preparing students for entering the Schools of Art heretofore known as Schools of Design.”
On some part of this property it is supposed the chapel, dedicated to St. Blase, formerly stood.
Turning to the left we proceed down Swan Hill, near the bottom of which, on the right-hand side is
a brick building, of an oblong form, erected in 1767.
Immediately adjoining is
erected in 1800, pursuant to the will of Mr. John Allatt, thirty-eight years chamberlain of the Corporation, who died 2nd November, 1796, and bequeathed his property for the education and clothing of the children of the more respectable classes of poor persons resident in the town, and for providing coats and gowns for a considerable number of indigent men and women. The structure is of freestone, plain but elegant, and comprises commodious houses for the schoolmaster and mistress, connected by arcades with spacious school-rooms.
The interest of the money unexpended in the building of the schools is applied to the maintenance of a master and mistress, who instruct twenty boys, and the same number of girls, in reading, writing, arithmetic, and the girls in sewing. They are clothed once a year, and at a proper age apprenticed. Twenty coats and eighty stuff gowns are also annually distributed to the poor.
Proceeding on the left along Murivance, we soon arrive at
erected in 1834, by a congregation of seceders from the Wesleyan Methodists.
Contiguous to this is the only remaining
It is square, embattled, of two stories, lighted by narrow loops, the entrance to the upper being from the top of the wall, through a small plain pointed arch of the age of Henry IV. A similar arch forms the doorway of the lower story.
The more accessible parts of the Town Walls, particularly on the south and south-western sides, were formerly strengthened by similar towers, all of which are now demolished.
At a short distance further on, a considerable portion of
now reduced in height and stripped of its battlements, forms an useful and agreeable public walk. This and the Walls on the north side of the town, called Roushill Walls, extending from the Castle Gates to the Welsh Bridge, are all the existing remains of our ancient fortifications, which, when entire, could not have been much less than a mile and half in compass.
At the end of the walls, on the left, is
a neat building, erected in 1776, and enlarged in 1825. The interior is fitted up with much taste and elegance. The altar rests on a sarcophagus, on the front of which is a painting of the Last Supper, after Leonardi da Vinci. Above is a figure of Christ on the Cross, with the inscription “Thus God loved the world.” The roof is coved and rests on a broad cornice, consisting of angelic figures in relief united by wreaths and garlands of flowers. In the gallery is a small organ, and on each side the entrance an elegant white marble shell for the holy water.
next demands our attention; a plain brick building, founded in 1724, pursuant to the will of Mr. Thomas Bowdler, alderman and draper, for the instruction, clothing, and apprenticing poor children of St. Julian’s parish. The dress of the children is blue, whence the school is sometimes called “The Blue School.”
Passing at the bottom of the Wyle a curiously carved timber house, formerly the mansion of the highly respectable family of Sherar, we cross “swift Severn’s flood” by
This elegant structure was completed in 1774, after a design of Mr. Gwynn, a native of the town, at an expense of £15,710, of which £11,494 was raised by voluntary subscriptions. It is of freestone, 400 feet in length, and comprises seven semicircular arches, the central one being sixty feet in width, and forty in height, and is crowned with a fine balustrade. The fronts are embellished with light and graceful ornaments. The ascent, owing to the height of the central arch, is disagreeably steep, and the breadth of the thoroughfare, (only twenty-five feet,) highly inconvenient to the innumerable carriages and passengers which are continually passing over it.
The Old English Bridge, built probably by the Abbots and Burgesses conjointly, was taken down on the completion of the present one. It was constructed on seventeen arches, and extended over the main stream, and also an arm of the river now filled up, which crossing the road, flowed past the monks’ infirmary into the Meole Brook. The principal course of the river was extended by six large arches. Within two arches of the eastern extremity, was a gate and strong embattled tower, with chamber and portcullis, and beyond a drawbridge. The thoroughfare was of the extremely narrow width of twelve feet, and was greatly encumbered with houses built on the northern parapet.
We now enter the little hamlet of
where, on the left, are still seen several specimens of the timber architecture of our forefathers, and on the right stands
called also the “Brown School,” from the brown dress of the children, erected in 1778. Children from all quarters of the town are admissible on the recommendation of subscribers, and an useful religious education is afforded to them on the Madras system.
The Shrewsbury and Hereford Railway here crosses the street by an
with pierced balustrades, springing from stone abutments.
Our attention is next attracted by the venerable remains of
which owes its foundation to Roger de Montgomery, the first Norman Earl of Shrewsbury, and arose on the site of a small wooden church dedicated to St. Peter, built in the reign of Edward the Confessor, by Siward, a Saxon gentleman, then resident in Shropshire. The earl peopled his abbey with monks of the Benedictine rule, whom he invited over from a religious house founded on the estates of Mabel, his first Countess, at Seez, in Normandy. During his last illness the warlike founder entered himself a monk of his own foundation, and received the tonsure on the 14th July, 1094. He had previously obtained from the Abbey of Clugni, in Burgundy, the kirtle of St. Hugh, which holy vestment he occasionally wore, doubtless in anxious hope of its communicating some portion of the sanctity of its former possessor. Three days after his assumption of the monastic garb he breathed his last, and was honourably interred in the Lady Chapel, between the two altars. His son Hugh, the second earl, who was slain by Magnus, King of Norway, near Castell Aber Lleiniog, in Anglesea, in the year 1098, also received interment in the cloisters.
On the confiscation of the Earldom of Shrewsbury, in the reign of Henry I., our Shrewsbury Abbots, became tenants in capite, and were thenceforth under the necessity, (as it was deemed in those days,) of attending the King in his Parliaments, as Barons or Peers of Parliament, which honour was continued to them by Edward III., who limited the number of mitred or Parliamentary Abbots to twenty-eight, and enjoyed by them down to the Dissolution.
In 1137, during the Abbacy of Herbert the third Abbot, the monastery was enriched through the exertions of the prior, Robert Pennant, by the acquisition of the bones of the martyred Virgin St. Wenefrede, which were translated from their burial place at Gwytherin, in Denbighshire, and placed with becoming solemnity in a costly shrine, prepared for their reception in the Abbey church. To this shrine, countless numbers of pilgrims and diseased persons continually resorted to pay their devotions, and to experience cures, which, according to assertion, must have been little less than miraculous; and the wealthy vied with each other in the costliness of their offerings. In addition to these treasured bones, the Monks appear to have possessed, in the reign of Henry II., a most extensive and varied assortment of other reliques, doubtless of equal value and efficacy. In 1486, the Abbot Thomas Mynde, incorporated the devotees, both male and female, of St. Wenefrede, into a religious Guild or fraternity founded by him in her honour. A great bell was also dedicated to her memory.
During the various visits with which the English Sovereigns from time to time honoured our town, it is highly probable that they took up their residence in the Abbey, and there can be little doubt that the Parliament of Edward I., 1283, [126] and that of Richard II., 1398, called the Great Parliament, were held within the spacious apartments of the monastery.
The original endowment was very slender, but within a century and half after the foundation the abbatial property comprised seventy-one manors or large tracts of land, twenty-four churches, and the tithes of thirty-seven parishes or vills, besides very extensive and valuable privileges and immunities of various kinds. In 26 Henry VIII. their possessions were found to be of the yearly value of £572. 15s. 5¾d. equal to upwards of £4700 in the present day. The monastery was dissolved on 24th January, 1539–40, and pensions assigned to the Abbot, Thomas Boteler, and the seventeen monks.
On the dissolution the burgesses presented a petition to the crown that the Abbey might be converted into a college or free school, which request Henry refused to accede to, alleging as a reason his intention of erecting Shrewsbury into one of his proposed thirteen new bishoprics. The diocese was to have comprehended the counties of Salop and Stafford, and the endowment to have consisted of the monastic revenues. We learn from undoubted authority that John Boucher, Abbot of Leicester, was actually nominated Bishop of Shrewsbury; [127] and hence doubtless arose the appellation of “Proud Salopians,” founded on the tradition that our townsmen rejected the offer of having their borough converted into a city, preferring to inhabit the First of Towns.
On the 22nd July 1546, Henry VIII. granted the site of the dissolved Abbey to Edward Watson and Henry Herdson, who, the next day, conveyed the same to William Langley of Salop, tailor, in whose family it continued for five generations until 1701, when Jonathan Langley, Esq. devised it to his friend Edward Baldwyn, Esq., who by will dated in 1726, devised it to his sister Bridget, the wife of Thomas Powys, Esq. for life, with remainder successively in tail male to her sons Henry, Edward, and John Powys. In 1810 the premises were sold by the Trustees of the will of Thomas, Jelf Powys, Esq. eldest son of the above named Edward Powys, to Mr. Simon Hiles, in whose devisees they are now vested.
The living is a vicarage, and prior to the dissolution was in the presentation of the monastery, but after that event it remained in the crown, until 1797, when it was transferred to the Right Honourable Lord Berwick, in exchange for certain advowsons in Suffolk.
From time immemorial certain lands in the Parish were given to and vested in the Churchwardens and their successors “for the maintenance and repairing of the Churches of the Holy Cross and St. Giles, and of either of them.” Consequently there has never been any need of a Church-rate. The lands, &c. are chiefly let out upon long building leases, and the present annual income is about £150, which upon the falling in of the several leases will of course be greatly increased. The Vicar and Churchwardens are a Corporation, with the power of making leases, &c. of the landed possessions of the said Churches, and have a common seal which is appended to such documents. The seal is kept in a chest secured by three locks, and the keys are severally in the possession of the Vicar and the two Churchwardens. It is of brass, of the vesica piscis form, and has in the centre a baton or mace, and on either side a clothed arm projecting towards the centre, that on the dexter side holding a pastoral crook, that on the sinister side, a naked sword: the ground-work studded with stars, and around the margin this inscription, * S COMMVNE DE FFORYATE MONACHOR’. This seal was, according to an entry in the Parish Book, “viewed and confirmed” by the Heralds, 16 Sept. 1623, for which 10s. was paid.
The site of the Abbey comprises ten acres. An embattled wall surrounded probably the whole. Of the once stately monastic buildings the remains are inconsiderable, and consist of the Church, the Infirmary, the Dormitory, the Reader’s Pulpit of the Refectory, the Guesten Chamber, and the Cloister of the Abbot’s Lodging.
The space of ground on the east of the present church, containing 7300 square yards, known lately by the name of “The Abbey Garden,” whereon formerly stood the Choir and Lady Chapel of the monastery, was in 1840 consecrated as a public Cemetery.
The present parochial church of The Holy Cross embraces within its walls the nave, side aisles, north porch, and western tower of the Abbey church. It is principally constructed of red stone, and though bearing deep marks of mutilation, is still venerable and spacious, and exhibits many curious and interesting features of ancient architecture. The principal entrance is at the west end under the tower, through a pointed doorway, richly laced with mouldings, skilfully inserted within a deeply recessed semicircular arch, the exterior rib of which springs on each side from a Norman pillar with indented capital. Immediately above rises a magnificent and elegantly proportioned window, its sides and arch enriched with delicate mouldings; in the deep hollow soffits of which is a series of pannels, having foliated arch heads. The outer mouldings of the arch rise high above it, forming a spring canopy, enriched with crockets, and ending in a flower; from which again springs very elegantly a niche or tabernacle, with a high straight-sided canopy, flanked with a small pinnacle at each impost, containing a figure of Edward III. in complete armour. The body of the window to the spring of the arch contains two stories, divided horizontally by embattled transoms, and perpendicularly by six upright mullions into seven compartments. The two central mullions, as they approach the spring of the arch, bisect the head into smaller arches on each side, and these are further subdivided into others, which are uncommonly acute, the interstices of all filled with several tiers of small open pannelled tracery, mingled with trefoiled and quatrefoiled foliage, in beautiful and varied profusion. To the angles of the tower are attached square shallow piers, ending in pointed canopies, and midway of each is a niche, containing statues of St. Peter and St. Paul. Two small double windows light each side of the upper story of the tower, the summit of which is terminated by an unsightly battlement of brick.
Abbey Church, or Church of the Holy Cross
The eastern portion of the nave is separated on either side from the side-aisles by three semicircular arches, resting on short massive round pillars, with shallow bases and filletted capitals, in the plainest and earliest Anglo-Norman style. Above, the remains of the triforium of the ancient church may be distinctly traced. The western portion has, on each side, two pointed arches in the pure Gothic of the 14th century, delicately lined with mouldings, and rising from well-proportioned clustered pillars, with capitals composed of a series of small horizontal mouldings. A clere-story, pierced with handsome Gothic windows, crowns this part of the edifice; and similar windows are continued along the north and south sides of the tower.
A lofty and graceful pointed arch, springing from high clustered imposts, opens from the nave to the tower, and affords a view of the fine west window; the upper portion of which is filled with the armorial bearings of Richard II.; his uncles, the Dukes of Gloucester, Lancaster, and York; and the alliances of the noble families of Fitzalan and Stafford, Earls of Arundel and Stafford, and the lower part with those of the late Archbishop of Canterbury, Dr. Howley, William Lord Berwick, patron, the Rev. R. Lingen Burton, vicar, Dr. Butler, Bishop of Lichfield, Archdeacon Bather, and Rev. Richard Scott, (the donor). The whole area of the tower is occupied by a capacious gallery, erected in 1817, for the accommodation of the children of the National School, in which stands a fine-toned organ, made by Gray of London, and purchased by subscription.
The eastern extremity of the nave is terminated by a wall, built between the two great western piers which once supported the central tower, in which is inserted a fine triple Norman window, [133] elaborately adorned with mouldings, containing figures of David, Solomon, St. John, St. James, St. Peter, and St. Paul, executed by Mr. David Evans with his usual taste. Underneath this window is a stone altar screen, composed of an arcade of five Norman arches, with rich and varied mouldings, surmounted by a pierced balustrade. The central arch contains a painting of the Angels appearing to the Women at the Sepulchre, by Mr. John Bridges, of London. The holy table is fenced by a STONE RAILING, uniform in style. The whole of the stone work of the eastern portion, together with the windows on the south aide of the church, were designed and executed by Messrs. Carline and Dodson of this town, through the pious liberality of the late Rev. R. Scott, B.D.
The western ends of the side aisles are separated from the church, and used as a vestry and schoolroom. At their eastern extremities are the arches which communicated with the transept, now blocked up and pierced with square-headed windows, in which are some ancient shields of arms, in stained glass, preserved from the monastic buildings. The north-east window of the north aisle contains a large figure of St. Peter, the arms of the See of Lichfield, of Lord Berwick the donor, and of thirteen incumbents since the Reformation. The opposite window of the south aisle is of a rich mosaic design, enclosing shields of the marriages of the family of Rocke.
The remnant of the screen of a chauntry chapel, in the north aisle, decorated with a series of small foliated niches, each divided by a buttress and finial, and containing traces of sculptured imagery, appears to indicate the situation of the chauntry of the guild of St. Wenefrede.
The ancient and curious font originally belonged to the church of High Ercall, in this county. In the pavement, near the vestry-door, are many interesting specimens of emblazoned tiles; and a font, the basin of which, representing an open flower, wound with drapery festooned from the mouths of grotesque heads, was found among the ruins of the Abbey, and is fixed on a pedestal formed of the upper part of the ancient cross, called the “Weeping Cross,” and sculptured with the Visitation, the Virgin and Child, the Crucifixion, and a figure in the attitude of devotion.
Communicating with the north aisle by a fine semicircular arch, overspread with massy round mouldings, rising from clustered piers, is the spacious vaulted north porch. The exterior portal is formed by a deeply recessed square opening, the mouldings of which fall over the angles far down the sides, ending in mutilated busts. Within this is a graceful pointed arch, rising from a round column on each side. Above are two chamber stories, each lighted by a small window. On the right and left, a tabernacled niche, extends the whole height of the upper stories. An ill-designed stone parapet crowns the gable.
And now
“let’s talk of graves, of tombs and epitaphs;”
of which many ancient ones, either found among the ruins, or removed hither on the demolition of other sacred edifices in the town and county, are preserved in the ample side-aisles; the more remarkable of which, we shall briefly enumerate in the order of their supposed dates:—
Monument to Roger de Montgomery, Abbey Church Under an arch in the south aisle, a mutilated figure of a warrior in the costume of the reign of King John, found among the ruins, and said to represent the founder, Earl Roger de Montgomery.
In the north aisle, a cumbent figure, brought from St. Chad’s, of a person in the robes and coif of a judge.
In the south aisle, a monument brought from St. Giles’ church, of the shape en dos d’ane, and probably of the early part of the thirteenth century. The sculpture consists of a rich foliated cross, in high relief: under which is a figure in priestly vestments with uplifted hands, also in relief, and the insignia of the priestly office, the chalice, bell, book, and candle, in outline. Round the edge of the stone are the letters, T : M : O : R : E : U : A.
Opposite to the last, a cumbent effigy of a cross-legged knight, in linked armour and surcoat, removed from the priory church of Wombridge, in this county, and conjectured, from the tradition of that neighbourhood, to commemorate Sir Walter de Dunstanville, the third lord of Ideshale, a great benefactor of that priory, who died 25th Henry III., 1240.
In the north porch, two very singular figures, which originally lay on a large double altar-tomb in the style of the fifteenth century, in old St. Alkmund’s church. One represents a knight in plate-armour of the fifteenth century, partly covered with the monastic dress, and the other a person in the dress of a hermit of the Romish church.
Near the founder’s tomb in the south aisle, an alabaster altar-tomb, bearing recumbent figures of a man, “plated in habiliments of war,” and his wife, originally erected in Wellington church, in this county, to William Charlton, Esq. of Apley Castle, who died the 1st July, 1544, and Anne his wife, who died the 7th June, 1524.
Altar-tomb of Richard Onslow, Esq., Abbey Church
At the eastern extremity of the north aisle, a large altar-tomb with cumbent effigies, to the memory of Richard Onslow, Esq. Speaker of the House of Commons in the 8th Elizabeth, who died 1571, and his lady Katherine Harding; formerly in the Bishop’s Chancel of Old St. Chad’s Church.
In a corresponding situation in the south aisle, an altar-tomb of alabaster, in the Grecian style of the age of James I., bearing two cumbent figures; an alderman in his civic “robe and furr’d gown,” and a lady in the scarlet gown formerly worn by the lady-mayoresses of our town, commemorating Wm. Jones, Esq. who died the 15th July, 1612, and Eleanor his wife, who died 26th February, 1623; the grand-father and grand-mother of Chief Justice Jones. This was removed from St. Alkmund’s.
Altar-tomb to Alderman Jones and his wife
Above Speaker Onslow’s monument, a mural monument, from St. Chad’s, in the Grecian taste of the seventeenth century, representing a gentleman in a ruff and long gown, and a lady with a long veil thrown back, kneeling under two escallopped arches: above, a lady in a richly laced habit and coif, and a little girl kneeling;—inscribed to the memory of Thomas Edwardes, Esq., who died 19th March, 1634, and of Mary, the wife of his son, Thomas Edwardes, Esq., died July 18th, 1641.
Above Jones’s monument, a mural monument, from St. Alkmund’s, with the figure of an alderman as low as the waist, with falling band, representing John Lloyd, Esq., Alderman of Shrewsbury, who died 16th June, 1647.
Near the vestry is a mural monument to the Rev. R. Scott, with the following inscription:—
AS A MARK OF GRATITUDE TO
THE REVEREND RICHARD SCOTT, B.D.
WHOSE OWN WORKS ARE BETTER PRAISE
THAN THE WORDS OF OTHERS,
THIS MEMORIAL IS PLACED HERE BY THE PARISHIONERS
OF THE HOLY CROSS AND ST. GILES.
HE REBUILT THE EASTERN WINDOW OF THIS CHURCH, ADDING
A PART OF THE STAINED GLASS TO IT.
HE GAVE THE ALTAR SCREEN AND STONE RAIL, THE SERVICE
OF COMMUNION PLATE, WITH THE BOOKS, AND ALL
OTHER FURNITURE OF THE ALTAR.
HE REPEWED BOTH THE AISLES, THE NORTHERN BEING GIVEN
FOR THE USE OF THE POOR.
HE BUILT THE SIX WINDOWS IN THE SOUTH AISLE, AND THE
TWO SMALLER WINDOWS AT THE WESTERN END OF THE
CHURCH, ADDING STAINED GLASS TO THE
GREAT WESTERN WINDOW.
HE GAVE NEW FIGURES OF ST. PETER AND ST. PAUL TO BE
PLACED WHERE THE OLD HAD BEEN AT THE WESTERN
FRONT OF THE TOWER.
HE RESTORED THE ARCH OF THE WESTERN ENTRANCE.
HE ALSO GAVE MANY OTHER LESSER GIFTS TO THIS CHURCH.
HE RESTORED ST. GILES’S CHURCH, MAKING IT AGAIN
AVAILABLE FOR THE SERVICE OF GOD.
HE GAVE TO THE SAME CHURCH, PARTLY IN HIS LIFE TIME AND
PARTLY BY BEQUEST, THE SUM OF ONE THOUSAND POUNDS
VESTED IN THE PUBLIC FUNDS, AS AN ENDOWMENT
TOWARDS THE SUPPORT OF A CURATE.
HE DIED ON THE 6TH OF OCTOBER, 1848.
BLESSED ARE THE DEAD WHICH DIE IN THE LORD FROM
HENCEFORTH; YEA, SAITH THE SPIRIT, THAT THEY MAY REST FROM
THEIR LABOURS AND THEIR WORKS DO FOLLOW THEM.REVELATION XIV. 13.
Numerous other mural monuments and inscriptions of more modern dates, many of which are chaste and elegant, record deceased members of the principal families of the parish.
Southwestward of the church, on the margin of the Meole Brook, stands,
where “crepytude and age a laste asylume founde.” The building is of red stone, in length about 130 feet, and originally consisted of two oblong wings, with high gable ends, pierced with round arched windows, connected by an embattled building resting on rude Norman arches, and lighted by three square headed windows between strong shelving buttresses. One of these wings next the street was in 1836 taken down, and modern houses erected on its site.
On the south side of the church are the remains of a long building, now converted into stables, formerly the Dormitory, or Dorter.
Of the spacious Refectory no portion exists, with the exception of
the admiration of every antiquary and person of taste. Its plan is octagonal; some broken steps lead to the interior through a narrow flat-arched door, on the eastern side. The southern half rests on the ruined walls, and originally looked into one of the outer courts. Its arches are open, unadorned with sculptured pannels, and bear marks of having been glazed. The corresponding moiety, which projected considerably within the hall, rests on a bracket enriched with delicate mouldings, which springs from a corbel. The western side is a blank wall. Six narrow pointed arches with trefoil heads support the conical stone roof, which is internally vaulted on eight delicate ribs, springing out of the wall, and adorned at their intersection in the centre, by a very fine boss, representing an open flower, on which is displayed a delicate sculpture of the Crucifixion, with St. John and the Virgin Mary at the foot of the cross. The three northern arches, which were within the hall, are filled up, to the height of two feet from the floor, with stone embattled pannels, sculptured into crocketed tabernacles, with intervening buttresses terminating in pinnacles. On the central pannel is the Annunciation; the right-hand one bears figures of St. Peter and St. Paul; and that on the left, St. Wenefrede and the Abbot Beuno. The architecture of this elegant structure is referred to the fifteenth century. Much conjecture has arisen amongst the most eminent antiquaries respecting its probable use, but there can be little doubt, that it originally projected from the wall within the Refectory, and was used as a pulpit, from whence one of the junior brethren of the monastery, in compliance with the rule of the Benedictine order, daily, read, during meal times, some book of divinity to the Monks, seated at the tables below in the hall.
Southward of the pulpit is a large range of red stone building, now incorporated with the Abbey House, ending on the west with a high gable terminated by a flower, supposed to have been the Guesten Hall.
To the south-east of this is the Abbot’s Lodging; of which the only remnant is a portion of the cloister, consisting of three pointed arches, on the piers of which, are indications of the corbels and springers of an elegant groined roof. A similar fragment adjoins this at right angles.
North of the Abbey Church is the beautiful
erected and endowed in 1852, by Daniel Rowland, Esq., in memory of his brother, the late Rev. W. G. Rowland, M.A., a native of Shrewsbury, who resided during a long life, in a house on the spot, and who for 32 years officiated as Curate of the Abbey Church, until his subsequent appointment to the living of St. Mary, which he held until his death, November 28th, 1851. The edifice comprises five houses, and was designed and executed by Mr. S. P. Smith. The appointment is vested in the Ministers of the Abbey and St. Mary, and the Head Master of the Free School, as Trustees. The Hospitallers must be widows, those residing in the Abbey and St. Mary’s parishes having a preference, and receive from the endowment an annual sum of £10. 8s. 0d.
A raised walk, formerly overshadowed by a venerable avenue of umbrageous horse-chesnut trees, but now flanked with modern houses, and called “Whitehall Place,” and “Tankerville Place,” conducts us to The White Hall.
This stately mansion acquired this appellation from the conspicuous appearance which its white-washed walls present from many points of the adjacent neighbourhood. It is, constructed of freestone; in plan is square and lofty, the summits of the walls broken into numerous pointed gables, and the roof adorned with highly ornamented chimneys, and crowned with a central octagonal turret. The gatehouse still remains, and opens through its arched portal to a small court in front of the house. The interior is spacious, and adapted by subsequent alterations to the modern notions of comfort and convenience. The walls of the extensive gardens are clothed with many curious and choice fruit trees; and at the back of the house is a fine Walnut-tree, magnificent in umbrageous expanse, apparently coeval with the mansion. This fine and perfect specimen of the domestic architecture of the reign of Queen Elizabeth was built in 1578, by Richard Prince, Esq. a native of Shrewsbury, who, by skill and integrity in the honourable and lucrative profession of the law, raised himself and his family to distinguished eminence.
formed in 1833.
Constituting part of the race-ground is a field bearing the name of “The Soldiers’ Piece,” which “old folks, time’s doting chronicles,” point out as the spot on which the unfortunate Charles I., when at Shrewsbury in 1642, drew up his army and addressed the assembled gentry of the county on the subject of his distresses.
A short walk now brings us to The Column, erected by the voluntary subscriptions of the grateful inhabitants of the town and county of Salop, to commemorate the brilliant victories and achievements of that distinguished warrior, their countryman, Lieutenant General Lord Hill. This fine Doric pillar, considered to be the largest in the world, was completed on 18th June, 1816, the anniversary of the glorious Battle of Waterloo, at an expense of £5,973. The design was furnished by Mr. Edward Haycock, and the masonry executed by Mr. John Straphen, both of Shrewsbury. The height, including the statue, is 132 feet, and the weight 1120 tons. The chastely fluted shaft ascends from a square pedestal, raised on two steps, and flanked by angular piers, bearing lions couchant, and is surmounted by a cylindrical, pedestal, supporting a statue of his Lordship. Appropriate inscriptions are engraved on the panels of the basal pedestal. A beautiful spiral staircase of stone, the munificent donation of the spirited builder, Mr. Straphen, winds round the interior of the shaft, and opens on the summit, at the base of the pedestal of the statue, from whence the delighted visitor will enjoy a panoramic view over the fertile plain of Shropshire, unrivalled in extent and splendour:—
“Ten thousand landscapes open to the view,
For ever pleasing, and for ever new.”
Near the column, in a neat Doric stone cottage, dwells the attendant who shows it.
At a few paces’ distance in a peaceful and retired spot stands the only ecclesiastical structure of the town, with
the exception of St. Mary’s church, which has descended to our times in an entire state. Of its foundation we possess no record, though it has been conjectured that its erection did not long precede the year 1136, when Robert, Prior of Shrewsbury, rested here with the bones of St. Wenefrede, previous to their translation to her shrine in the Abbey; and some confirmation is afforded to this conjecture by the arches of the northern and southern doors, the oldest existing portions of the structure, being of the architecture of that æra. It was doubtless used as the chapel of the hospital for lepers, which formerly stood at the west end, but of which all traces have long been swept away. The edifice consists of a nave, chancel, and north aisle, with an open stone bell-turret, pierced for two bells. The nave is entered by plain semicircular doorways on the north and south sides, and is divided from the side-aisle by three pointed arches on plain round pillars; attached to the north sides of which are massive square piers, having fillets above and on a level with the capitals, singularly adorned with sunk quatrefoils. A handsome pointed arch of the fourteenth century communicates with the chancel, in the flat-arched eastern window of which are spirited figures of the Evangelists under rich canopies, with their characteristic emblems above, and representations of the Visitation, the Wise Men’s Offering, and the Presentation, all most exquisitely executed in stained glass by Mr. David Evans. The small lancet window on the north side also contains a figure of the patron saint, St. Giles, in ancient stained glass.
In the floor are several ancient stones bearing crosses, probably memorials of the masters of the hospital. At the east end of the north aisle is a font originally in the Abbey Church, formed of a Norman capital.
According to entries in the Parish Books of the date 1665, this church originally possessed a “steeple” at the western end, probably an open stone bell-turret, somewhat similar to the present one, springing from corbels, which were visible in the western wall previous to its being rebuilt in 1852, and a porch before the south door. In the “steeple” was a “great bell” and two smaller ones, which were taken down in 1672, and used in the following year, with four lesser bells and the great “Wenefrede” Bell, in the recasting of the present ring of eight of the Abbey Church.
In 1740, a considerable sum raised by subscription was expended in a thorough repair of St. Giles’s Church, when probably the “steeple” and the porch were removed, a bell-turret and single bell erected, and the whole brought into the state in which it continued down to the recent restoration.
In 1827 this curious edifice was, through the laudable exertions and entirely at the expense of the Rev. W. G. Rowland, the liberal donor of the beautiful east window, thoroughly and judiciously repaired, and happily rescued from that ruin and decay to which its previous neglected condition was fast hastening.
Interior of St. Giles’s Church
The primitive rude and massive oak benches in the nave were subsequently removed, and replaced with new ones. A new pulpit, reading-pew, and altar-screen, of oak, beautifully carved and in unison with the architecture, were added, and the whole building fitted up for divine service by the pious munificence of the late Rev. Richard Scott, B.D. Divine Service, which had previously been celebrated only on two Sunday evenings in the year, has, since June 1836, been regularly offered up every Sunday.
In the church-yard is a large stone with a cavity on the upper side, (doubtless the base and socket of the cross) termed “the PEST BASIN,” which tradition states to have been used during the time of the plague for holding water, in which, to avoid the spread of the disease, the towns-people deposited their money in their bargains for provisions with the country-folk. A portion of the head of this cross was discovered under the west wall of the church during the repairs in 1852. It is now placed in the north aisle, and displays sculptures of the Crucifixion, St. Giles, Virgin and Child, and St. Michael.
“Pest-Basin,” in St. Giles’s Churchyard
Our town has been many times visited with those severe scourges of Heaven, the dreadful pestilential diseases of the sweating sickness and the plague. The former desolated the town in the reign of Edward III. in 1349, and again in that of Henry VII., in the years 1485 and 1551; and the latter raged here with frightful fury in the years 1537, 1575, 1630, 1632, and 1634. In the years 1832 and 1849, also, many of the inhabitants fell victims to the cholera.
For the support of the Hospital of Lepers, Henry II. granted thirty shillings yearly out of the rent of the County of Salop, and a handful of two hands of every sack of corn, and a handful of one hand of every sack of flour, exposed for sale in Shrewsbury market. Henry III. also in 1232 gave them a horse-load of wood, daily, from his wood of Lythwood.
The appointment of the Master was vested in the Abbot and Convent of Shrewsbury, who, a short time previous to the Dissolution, granted a long lease of it to Richard Lee, Esq. of Langley, who assigning his interest to the family of Prince, of the White Hall, it passed with their other estates into the Tankerville family. The Earl of Tankerville still annually receives from the Sheriff the thirty shillings granted by Henry II. and nominates the four hospitallers, who now live in the adjoining comfortable cottages, and to each of whom his Lordship pays 1s. 6d. per week, 3s. at Midsummer for coal, and 12s. 6d. at Christmas for a garment. [153]
Near St. Giles’s is a handsome edifice of brick, built by government in 1806, at an expense of £10,000, after a design by Wyatt, and intended as