Wall of Tarquinius Superbus, 1.—Circus of Sallust, 1.—Temple of Venus Erycina, 2.—Villa by Milizia, 2.—Fontana di Termini, 2.—Santa Maria della Vittoria, 2.—Bath of Dioclesian, 3.—Church of San Bernardo, 3.—Santa Maria degli Angeli, 4.—Convent, 5.—Agger of Servius Tullius, 5.—Church of Santa Bibiena, 5.—Temple of Minerva Medica, 5.—Columbarium of the family Aruntia, 5.—Temple of Venus and Cupid, 6.—Arch of Dolabella and Silanus, 6.—San Stefano Rotondo, 6.—Navicella, 7.—Church of Santa Maria di Navicella, 7.—Church of Santi Giovanni e Paolo, 7.—Nymphæum, 8.—Church of San Gregorio, 8.—Chapel of St. Andrew, 8.—Septizonium, 8.—Circus Maximus, 9.—Aventine, 9.—Church of Santa Saba, 9.—Monte Testaccio, 9.—Burying-ground, 10.—Pyramid of Caius Cestius, 10.—Arch of San Lazzaro, 10.—Strada Marmorata, 10.—Madama Lucrezia, 10.—Church of S. Marco, 10.—Palazzo di Venezia, 11.—Rinuccini, 11.—Altieri, 11.—Doria, 11.—Sciarra, 11.—Monte Citorio, 12.—Solar obelisk, 12.—Palazzo Ghigi, 12.

Church of San Carlo nel Corso, 13.—Gesù e Maria, 13.—Palazzo Rondadini, 13.—Mausoleum of Augustus, 13.—Ripetta, 13.—Palazzo Borghese, 14.—Church of Sant Agostino, 14.—San Luigi de’ Francesi, 14.—Palazzo Madama, 14.—Piazza Navona, 15.—Portico of the church of San Pantaleo, 15.—Palazzo Braschi, 15.—Pasquin, 16.—Church of Santa Maria dell’ Anima, 16.—Church of Santa Maria della Pace, 16.—Cloisters, 16.—Chiesa Nuova, 17.—Oratorio of San Filippo Neri, 17.—San Giovanni de’ Fiorentini, 17.—Bridge of Sant Angelo, 17.—Mausoleum of Hadrian, 17.—Hospital of Spirito Santo, 18.—Porta di Spirito Santo, 18.—Church of Sant Onofrio, 18.—Palazzo Corsini, 19.—Fontana di Ponte Sisto, 20.—Church of the Trinità de Pellegrini, 20.—Monte di Pietà, 20.—Botanic garden, 20.—Fontana Paolina, 20.—San Pietro in Montorio, 20.—Tempietto of Bramante, 21.—Santa Cecilia, 21.—Isola Tiberina, 22.—Temple of Æsculapius, 22.—Palazzo Mattei, 22.—San Carlo a’ Catinari, 22.—Santa Maria sopra Minerva, 22.—Statue of our Saviour, 23.—Porta del Popolo, 23.—Walls, 23.—Muro torto, 23.—Porta Pia, 23.—Prætorian camp, 24.—Porta San Lorenzo, 24.—Porta Maggiore, 24.—Aqueducts, 24.—Anfiteatro castrense, 25.—Porta San Giovanni, 25.—Porta Latina, 25.—Porta San Sebastiano, 25.—Porta San Paolo, 26.

Scenery about Rome, 27.—Casino of Raphael, 27.—Villa Borghese, 28.—Villa Poniatowski, 28.—Villa Giulia, 28.—Acqua acetosa, 29.—Monument to St. Andrew, 29.—Ponte Molle, 29.—Torre di Quinto, 29.—Tomb of Ovid, 30.—Villa Madama, 30.—Monte Mario, 30.—Valle d’Inferno, 30.—Porta Angelica, 31.—Villa Albani, 31.—Ponte Salario, 31.—Ponte Lamentano, 32.—Mons Sacer, 32.—Aqueducts, 32.—Torre Pignattara, 35.—Degradation of Roman architecture, 36.—Ruins composed of reticulated work, 36.—Torre degli Schiavi, 37.

Baths of Caracalla, 39.—Great Halls, 39.—Tomb of the Scipios, 40.—Arch of Drusus, 41.—Sepulchre of Mars, 41.—Church of Domine quo vadis, 42.—Church of St. Sebastian, 42.—Catacombs, 42.—Spoliarium, 43.—Very ancient sepulchre, 43.—Circus of Caracalla, 43.—Temple of Honour and Virtue, 44.—Temple of the Tempest, 44.—Temple of Bacchus at the Caffarelli, 45.—Grotto of Egeria, 45.—Temple of Rediculus, 46.—Sepulchre of Cecilia Metella, 47.—Appian Way, 48.—Roma Vecchia, 48.—Roman roads, 48.—Roman Temples, 49.—Tre Fontane, 49.—Villa Pamfili, 49.—Workshops (Canova), 50.—Thorwaldson, 50.—Fragments of Veii, 51.

Campagna, 52.—Lago de’ Tartari, 52.—Lago di Solfatara, 53.—Ponte Lucano, 54.—Plautian monument, 54.—Sepulchres of the Sereni, 54.—Hadrian’s villa, 54.—Stage to Tivoli, 57.—Figures of Saints and Gods, 57.—Temple of Vesta, 57.—Opus incertum, 57.—Church of St. George, 59.—Waterfall, 59.—Villas, 60.—Villa of Horace, 61.—Villa of Q. Varus, 61.—Cyclopean Walls, 62.—Villa of V. Bassus, 64.—Vetriano, 64.—Quarries of travertine, 64.—Aqueducts, 65.—Cascatelli, 66.—Acqua Aurea, 66.—Temple of the World, 67.—Temple of Tosse, 67.—Villa of Mæcenas, 67.—Temple of Hercules, 67.—Portico of Hercules, 67.—Villa d’Este, 67.

Aqueducts, 68.—Road to Vico Varo, 70.—Villa of Syphax, 70.—Vico Varo, 70.—Rocca Giovane, 70.—Licenza, 71.—Fons Bandusiæ, 71.—Villa of Horace, 72.—Convent of San Cosimato, 72.—Valley of the Anio, 72.—Subiaco, 73.—Baths of Nero, 73.—Convent of Santa Scolastica, 74.—Convent of St. Benedict, 74.—Road to Palestrina, 75.—Genezzano, 75.—Palestrina, 76.—Temple of Fortune, 76.—Cyclopean Walls, 77.—Temple of the Sun, 77.—Villa of Constantine, 78.—Roman pavement, 78.

Procession to obtain rain, 79.—St. Peter’s toe, 79.—Frascati, 79.—Grotto Ferrata, 80.—Tusculum, 80.—Mondragone, 81.—Sepulchre of L. V. Corvinus, 81.—Rocca del Papa, 81.—Monte Cavo, 82.—Via triumphalis, 82.—Villa of Domitian, 83.—Villa of Pompey, 83.—Lago di Albano, 83.—Emissario, 84.—Baths of Diana, 84.—Thermæ at Albano, 85.—Tomb of the Curiatii, 85.—Remains of the Appian way, 85.—Aricia, 85.—Lake of Nemi, 85.—Nemi, 86.—Velletri, 86.—Cross-roads, 87.—Cora, 87.—Temple of Hercules, 87.—Temple of Castor and Pollux, 88.—Vases found at Marino, 88.—Ostia, 90.—Mal aria, 90.—Port of Trajan, 91.—Sea-shore, 92.—Veii, 92.—Gabii, 93.—Sylva sacra, 94.—Nettuno, 94.—Antium, 94.—Ardea, 94.

Companions in journey, 95.—Church at Monte Rosi, 96.—Nepi, 96.—Cività castellana, 96.—Poetical labourer, 97.—Otricoli, 97.—Narni, 97.—Terni, 97.—Cascade, 98.—Somma, 102.—Spoleto, 102.—Temple of Clitumnus, 103.—Foligno, 104.—Perugia, 104.—Thrasymene, 105.—Cortona, 106.—Grotto of Pythagoras, 106.—Arezzo, 106.—Church of the Pieve, 106.—Chapel in cathedral, 107.—Effects of slender supports, 108.—Murder, 108.

Boboli gardens, 110.—Cascine, 110.—Comparison of Florence and Rome, 110.—Walk to Bologna, 111.—Volcano, 111.—Boiling spring, 112.—Cathedral at Modena, 113.—Italian Gothic, 113.—Reggio, 113.—Santa Maria di Consolazione, 113.—Parma, 114.—Cathedral, 114.—Baptistery, 114.—Paintings of Coreggio, 114.—Church of the Steccata, 114.—Academy, 115.—Palace, 115.—Language, 115.—Po, 116.—Mantua, 116.—Cathedral, 116.—Palazzo del Tè, 117.—Church of St. Sebastian, 117.—Sant Andrea, 117.—Fish-market, 118.—Ponte di Lago Scuro, 118.—Ferrara, 119.—Cathedral, 120.—Echoes, 120.—Journey to Imola, 121.—Faenza, 121.—Raphael, 121.—Agriculture, &c. 122.

Ravenna, 124.—Church of San Vittore, 124.—Spirito Santo, 125.—Church of Santa Agata Maggiore, 125.—Monograms, 126.—San Giovanni della Sagra, 126.—San Francesco, 127.—S. Apollinare nuova, 127.—S. Apollinare at Classe, 127.—Baptistery, 128.—Santa Maria in Cosmedim, 129.—S. Vitale, 129.—Sepulchre of Galla Placidia, 130.—Sepulchre of Theodoric, 131.—Palace of Theodoric, 132.—Library and museum, 133.—Tomb of Dante, 133.—Cathedral, 133.—Campanile, 133.—Pine wood, 133.—Rimini, 134.—Bridge of Augustus, 134.—Arch of Augustus, 134.—Cathedral, 135.—Want of patriotic feeling among the Italians, 136.—Senegaglia, 137.—Ancona, 137.—Arch of Trajan, 137.—Cathedral, 138.—Santa Maria della Piazza Collegiata, 138.—Loreto, 139.—Piazza, 139.—Church, 139.—Holy house, 139.—Apothecary’s shop, 140.—Sermon, 140.—Miracles, 142.—Journey to Macerata, 142.—Theatre, 143.—Apennines, 143.—Return to Rome, 144.—Roman amusements, 146.

Scheme of English academy, 147.—English academy, 148.—Roman academy, 149.—Milizia, 149.—Instruction to a young architect, 155.

Use of bricks, 163.—Republican edifices, 163.—Progress of ornament, 165.—Character of the Italians, 168.—Division of employment at Rome, 169.—Rome, the capital of the world, 169.—Purgatory, 172.—Present state of Italy, 172.

Feeling for art in Italy, 174.—Journey to Naples, 174.—Postillion murdered, 175.—Terracina, 176.—Fondi, 177.—Itri, 177.—Sepulchre of Cicero at Mola, 177.—Capua, 177.—Inn at Naples, 178.—Palaces, 178.—Royal palace, 178.—Theatre of San Carlo, 178.—Castello nuovo, 178.—Palace of the Studii, 179.—Cathedral, 179.—Church of Santa Restituta, 181.—Chapel of San Gennaro, 181.—Gerolomini, 182.—Church of St. Paul, 182.—Sangro chapel, 182.—Church of San Domenico maggiore, 183.—Santa Chiara, 183.—Trinità maggiore, 184.—Annunziata, 184.—San Pietro ad aram, 184.—Santa Maria del Carmine, 184.—Blood of St. Januarius, 185.—Neapolitan life, 186.—Coins, 187.—Comparison of Rome and Naples, 189.—Toledo, 190.—Views from Naples, 190.—Chiaja, 190.—Capo di Monte, 191.—Albergo Reale de’ poveri, 191.

Grotto of Pausilippo, 192.—Pozzuoli, 193.—Temple of Jupiter Serapis, 193.—Temple of Neptune, 196.—Amphitheatre, 197.—Solfatara, 197.—Lake of Agnano, 198.—Grotto del Cane, 198.—Villa of Cicero, 199.—Monte nuovo, 199.—Arco Felice, 199.—Cuma, 199.—Amphitheatre, 199.—Lake of Acheron, 199.—Stufe of Tritola, 200.—Baths of Nero, 200.—Lucrine Lake, 200.—Lake of Avernus, 200.—Bridge of Caligula, 201.—Bases of columns in the sea, 201.—Campanian way, 201.—La Mergellina, 202.—Santa Maria del parto, 202.—Hill of Pausilippo, 202.—Tomb of Virgil, 202.—Excursion to Baiæ, 203.—School of Virgil, 203.—Capo Miseno, 204.—Dragonara, 204.—Elysian fields, 204.—Piscina mirabile, 204.—Cento camarelle, 204.—Tomb of Agrippina, 204.—Temple of Hercules, 204.—Temple of Venus genitrix, 205.—Temple of Mercury, 205.—Temple of Diana, 205.—Ruins at Baiæ, 205.—Camaldoli, 206.—Excursion to Pompei, 207.—Herculaneum, 208.—Torre del Greco, 208.—Torre dell’ Annunziata, 208.—Pompei, 208.—Ponte della Maddelena, 209.—Old Capua, 209.—Caserta, 210.

Journey to Bari, 211.—Robbers taken into service, 212.—Foggia, 214.—Bari, 214.—Cathedral, 215.—Church of San Nicola, 215.—Norman church at Bari, 215.—Residence at Bari, 216.—Journey to Otranto, 216.—Lecce, 218.—Style of architecture, 218.—Otranto, 219.—Olive trees, 219.—Voyage to Corfu, 220.—Modern Greek buildings, 220.—Greek dress, 220.—Soil of Corfu, 221.—Journey to Santa Maura, 222.—Agioneesi, 222.—Santa Maura, 224.—Leucas, 224.—Voyage to Patras, 225.—Voyage to Vostizza, 226.—Journey to Corinth, 227.—Antiquities at Corinth, 228.—Voyage to Athens, 228.

Greek apartments, and mode of life, 229.—Topography, 230.—Ilissus, 231.—Cephisus, 231.—Nature of rock, 232.—Effect of first-rate productions, 232.—Review of objects in journey, 233.—Arrival at Athens, 234.—Monument of Lysicrates, 234.—Tower of the winds, 234.—Portico of the market, 234.—Stoa, 234.—Gymnasium, 234.—Temple of Theseus, 234.—Situations of buildings, 235.—Greek temples, 235.—Tiles, 237.—External painting, 237.—Comparison of Greek and Roman ornaments, 239.

Propylæa, 241.—Temple of Victory without wings, 241.—Very ancient constructions, 246.—Mode of finishing, 246.—Parthenon, 246.—Situation of religious buildings, 247.—Effects of explosion, 248.—Nature of quarries of Pentelic marble, 251.—Desire of obtaining fragments, 253.—Temple of Erectheus, 254.—Temple of Minerva Polias, 257.—Temple of Pandrosus, 257.

Comparison of Rome and Athens, 259.—Walls of the Acropolis, 261.—Grotto of Pan, 261.—Large entablature, 261.—More very ancient walls, 262.—Choragic monuments, 262.—Theatre of Bacchus, 262.—Odeum, 262.—Temple of Jupiter Olympus, 262.—Progress of foliage, 263.—Arch of Hadrian, 265.—Areopagus, 266.—Pnyx, 266.—Monument of Philopappus, 266.—Stadium of Herodes Atticus, 267.—Bridge over the Ilissus, 267.—Tombs, 267.—Academy, 268.—Colonia, 268.—Lyceum, 268.—Turkish architecture, 268.—Greek churches, 269.

Piræus, 271.—Tomb of Themistocles, 271.—Munychia, 271.—Phalerus, 272.—Excursion to Daphne, 272.—Written rock, 273.—Salt streams, 273.—Excursion to Hymettus, 274.—Climate of Athens, 275.—Modern Greek, 275.—Mode of life, 278.—Dancing dervises, 279.—Greek carnival, 280.—Greek dress, 281.—Schools in Greece, 285.

Temple of Jupiter Panhellenius in Egina, 287.—Comparison of Greek and English scenery, 288.—Temple of Minerva at Sunium, 289.—Remains at Thoricus, 289.—Plain of Marathon, 290.—Ruins at Rhamnus, 291.—Return to Athens, 292.—Plague, 292.

Temple near the port of Egina, 295.—Pidhavro, or Epidaurus, 296.—Hiero, 296.—Theatre, 297.—Nafplia, 298.—Tyrins, 298.—Argos, 298.—Ruins of Mycene, 299.—Ruins of Nemæa, 301.—Arrival at Corinth, 301.—Basilica, the ancient Sicyon, 302.—Voyage to Patras, 303.—Singular Medusa, 303.—Greek mountains, 303.—Earthquake, 304.—Roman aqueduct at Patras, 305.—Quarantine, 305.—Voyage to Malta, 305.

Quarantine, 307.—Architecture of Malta, 308.—Church of San Giovanni Battista, 309.—Church of San Agostino, 309.—Church of San Domenico, 309.—Palace, 310.—Guard-house, 310.—Library, 310.—Staircases, 310.—Whitewash, 311.—Village churches, 311.—Villages, 311.—Residence, 311.—Language, 312.—Lusieri’s drawings, 312.—Celtic antiquity, 312.—Hills, 312.—Plague, 313.—Cathedral at Città Vecchia, 314.—Grotto of St. Paul, 315.—Boschetto, 315.—Races, 315.—Maltese dress, 315.—Government, 316.

Trabaccolo, 317.—Agusta, 317.—Syracuse, 318.—Temple of Minerva, 318.—Cathedral, 318.—Temple of Diana, 319.—Arethusa (fountain), 319.—Colonnade without the island, 319.—Amphitheatre, 319.—Latomiæ, 319.—Paradiso, 319.—Ear of Dionysius, 319.—Theatre, 320.—Fortifications, 320.—Epipolis, 320.—Aqueducts, 321.—Other Latomiæ, 321.—Capuchin convent, 321.—Cemetery, 321.—Catacombs, 321.—Fountain Cyane, 321.—Temple of Jupiter, 321.—Coffee-houses and people, 321.—Journey to Catania, 322.—Catania, 323.—Museum of the prince of Biscari, 323.—Don Mario, 324.—Baths, 324.—Theatres, 324.—Amphitheatre, 324.—Circular chamber, 324.—Cathedral, 325.—Museum of the Cav. Gioeni, 325.—Museum of the Baron Ricupero, 325.—Museum at the Benedictine convent, 325.—Lava, 325.—Excursion to the summit of Ætna, 326.

Ætna, 329.—Journey from Catania, 329.—Taormina, 330.—Theatre, 330.—Tombs, 331.—Gothic doorway, 332.—Journey to Messina, 332.—Cathedral, 333.—Church of Santa Maria Annunziata, 334.—San Giovanni Battista, 334.—Mountains of Calabria, 334.—Speronara, 334.—Voyage to Palermo, 335.—Palermo, 336.—Comparison of different views, 336.—Opinions of the Sicilians as to their own antiquities, 337.—Castle of Zisa, 338.—Casteddu, 338.—Cathedral, 339.—San Niccolò della Kalsa, 340.—Botanic garden, 341.

Journey to Agrigentum, 342.—Belli Frati, 342.—Royal forest of Busambra, 342.—Fibrous carbonate of lime, 343.—Offensiveness of the streams, 343.—Girgenti, 344.—Oratory of Phalaris, 344.—Temple of Juno, 345.—Temple of Concord, 345.—Temple of Hercules, 345.—Temple of Jupiter, 346.—Tomb of Theron, 347.—Temple of Æsculapius, 347.—Temple of Castor and Pollux, 347.—Temple of Jupiter Polieus, 348.—Micaceous marble, 348.—Cathedral, 348.—Warm wind and warm springs at Sciacca, 348.—Journey to Selinus, 349.—Temples at Selinus, 349.—Peculiar capitals, 350.—Ancient quarries, 352.—Journey to Segesta, 352.—Temple at Segesta, 352.—Theatre, 353.—Alcamo, 353.—Parthenico, 353.—Cathedral at Monreale, 354.—Orlando Furioso made into a farce, 354.—Excursion to Cefalù, 355.—Cathedral, 356.—House of Roger, 356.—Cyclopean edifices, 356.—Termini, 356.—Voyage to Naples, 357.

Accommodations at Pompei, 358.—Soldiers’ quarters, 359.—Covered theatre, 360.—Larger theatre, 361.—Large court and temple of Hercules, 361.—Ionic portico, 362.—Schools, 363.—Temple of Isis, 363.—Temple of Æsculapius, 363.—Forum, 364.—Courts of Justice, 365.—Basilica, 365.—Temple of Venus, 366.—Portico of Eumachia, 367.—Temple of Mercury, 368.—Recess, with number of altars, 368.—Temple of Jupiter, 368.—Triumphal arches, 369.—Amphitheatre, 369.—Private houses, 369.—Paintings, 370.—Tombs, 371.—Villas, 372.—Mosaics, 373.—Indications of the means of confinement and of punishment, 373.—Pantheon, 374.—Baths, 374.—House of tragic poet, 375.—House of Fuller, 375.

Tuscans and Neapolitans, 376.—Villa Galla, 377.—Journey to Pæstum, 377.—Temple of Neptune at Pæstum, 378.—Basilica, 379.—Amphitheatre, 379.—Theatre, 379.—Peculiar style of capital, 379.—Temple of Ceres, 380.—Other foundations, 380.—Walls and gates, 380.—Salt springs, 380.—Tombs, 381.—Cathedral at Salerno, 381.—Ancient baptistery at Nocera, 382.

Neapolitan vetturini, 383.—Journey to Rome, 383.—Anxur, 384.—Palace of Theodoric, 384.—Dead-letter office, 385.—Residence at Rome, 385.—Italian preaching, 386.—Capuchin sermon, 386.—Catechising, 386.—Canova’s church, 387.—Dragging the Tiber, 387.—Entertainments and illuminations in honour of the emperor’s visit to Rome, 387.

Journey to Florence, 389.—Assisi, 389.—Temple of the Corinthian order, 389.—Cathedral, 389.—Church and convent of St. Francis, 389.—Santa Maria degli Angeli, 390.—Hut of St. Francis, 390.—Residence at Florence, 390.—Vaulting, 391.—Academy, 391.—Pietre dure, 391.—Monte Asenario, 392.—Pratolino, 392.—Journey to Leghorn, 392.—Leghorn, 393.—Pisa, 393.—Peculiar style of architecture, 393.—Cathedral, 393.—Baptistery, 396.—Campo Santo, 397.—Leaning tower, 397.—Church of Santa Maria della Spina, 397.—Domestic architecture, 398.—Baths, 398.—Wood of Pisa, 398.

Lancasterian schools at Florence, 399.—Lancasterian schools at Siena, 401.—Arithmetic, 402.—Schools at the Albergo de’ Poveri, 403.—Schools of the Frati Cristiani, 404.—Romans and Carthaginians, 404.—Scuole pie at Rome, 405.—Scuole pie at Florence, 405.—Contests, 406.—Collegio Romano, 407.—Institution at Florence, 407.—Tuscan system of education, 408.

Lucca, 409.—Cathedral, 409.—St. Michael, 410.—S. Frediano, 411.—Santa Maria foris portam, 411.—S. Giusto, 412.—S. Cristoforo, 412.—Progressive dates, 412.—Cathedral at Pistoja, 412.—Sant Andrea, 413.—Baptistery, 413.—Cathedral at Prato, 413.—Ramparts of Lucca, 413.—Baths of Lucca, 413.—Forest of chesnut trees, 414.—Prato Fiorito, 414.—Road across the mountains to Modena, 415.—Lignite at Ghivizzano, 415.—Viareggio, 415.—Roman baths at Massaciuccoli, 415.—La Bettona, 416.—Monte Cimone, 416.—Woods on the Apennines, 416.—School among the Apennines, 416.—Flames at Birigazza, 416.—Journey to Carrara, 416.—Marble quarries, 417.—Cathedral, 417.—School of sculpture, 417.—Lerici, 418.—Porto Venere, 418.—Gulf of Spezia, 418.—Journey to Genoa, 418.—Genoa, 420.—Cathedral at Genoa, 420.—S. Cyr, 420.—Church of S. M. Annunziata, 420.—Santa Maria di Carignano, 420.—Statue of St. Sebastian by Puget, 420.—Church of St. Ambrose, 421.—Church of St. Stephen, 421.—Tomb of Doria, 421.—Palaces, 421.—Poor-house at Genoa, 421.—Journey to Turin, 422.—Turin, 422.—Cathedral, 423.—Chapel of the Santo Sudario, 423.—San Filippo, 423.—San Lorenzo, 424.—Smaller churches at Turin, 424.—Arsenal, 424.—Theatre, 424.—Palaces, 424.—Botanic garden, 425.—Superga, 425.—Arch of Augustus at Susa, 426.—Walk over Mount Cenis, 427.—Cathedral at Chamberi, 428.—Antiquities at Aix, 429.—Journey to Geneva, 429.