Our next stage, which was three Hungarian miles, brought us from Igmand to Rab, thro a level country, and well cultivated. Half an hour before we enter the town, his Excellency is met by a troop of Hussars well mounted, and each man carrying a small flag in his hand. Rab, which is the proper government of the Prince of Baden, is pleasantly seated at the confluence of the rivers Rab and Rabnitz, which unite near the walls of the castle, and then in one stream immediately fall into the Danube. The castle is large, and well fortified with seven bastions, four cavaliers, and proportionable outworks. It contains within an ample space of ground, possessed with houses, and divided into streets, which make the best part of the city, the rest being more scattered and diffused on both sides of the Rabnitz. It is now about a century, since this place was taken from the Turks by a stratagem of Count Schaurtzenburg, who applying a petard to one of the gates in the night, at one stroke blew open the great iron door, which flew many paces within the town, and is now kept as a memorial of the fact in the cathedral church. The Turks marched in the sight of this garrison to the siege of Vienna, and received several shot from thence; and at their return, had the Imperialists of this place known their defeat, they might have intercepted their passage, by cutting down the bridges of the Rab.
His Excellency staying this day at Rab, I took the opportunity of visiting Stephanus Morsai, the reformed minister of the place. And about ten a clock Mr. Stepney, her Majesty’s Envoy Extraordinary at Vienna, with the young Earl of Bridgwater, and his brother Mr. Egerton, came to Rab to meet my Lord Paget, and welcome him into these parts.
This day, thro frequent villages and fruitful feilds, we continue our journey two Hungarian miles to Hungrisch Altenburg, a small town with fair buildings, enclosed with a wall, and seated on the river Leyta, which at the distance of half a mile falls into the Danube. Here Mr. Stepney, my Lord Paget, and some others proceed directly to Vienna.
Three Hungarian miles, thro a delicious and well tilled country, in sight of Presburg castle, we proceed to Pruck; just at the entrance of which we cross the Leyta, and by that means pass out of Hungary into Austria, of which Pruck is the first town in this road. It is a considerable compact place, neatly built with an appearing magnificence, which they affect by building their houses high and uniform towards the street. It has a castle and a strong wall, tho not sufficient against the present art of war. In the market place is a pillar, that bears a profane image of the Trinity, the Father in the figure of an old man, the Son standing at his right hand, and the Holy Ghost in the shape of a dove hovering betwixt their heads. Here is an handsome convent of Augustin friars, and in the market place a new church not yet finished, which promises something both beautiful and magnificent.
This day, being Sunday, we continue at Pruck, when I took an occasion of walking by the banks of the Leyta, in pleasant and delightful meadows.
Four German miles from hence bring us to Schweka, a neat village near Eberstorff; where is a palace of the Emperor, and a large park, enclosed by the Danube and the Schweka.
By three in the afternoon his Excellency moves from hence, and in an hour and a half, at the distance of two German miles, happily arrives at Vienna; where he is lodged in the suburbs, betwixt the Caristhian gate and the Favorita, in a palace of Count Sterembergh. After the repose of a day or two his Excellency had a separate audience of the Emperor, and Empress, the Archduke Carlo, and the four Archdutchesses. And being visited by most of the nobility, courtiers, and ministers of the place, he afterwards took occasion of returning their respective visits.
Vienna is seated on a point of land, made by the confluence of the river Wien and a branch of the Danube, which latter here enlarges itself about a thousand paces from its main chanel. The city is of a moderate circumference, scarce containing more than four thousand paces within the circuit of the walls; but round these, at a large distance, are extended many diffused suburbs, by means of which it may be placed among the larger cities of Europe. The fortifications are effective, regular, and intire; a large uninterrupted glacis, a strong pale, a deep and wide foss, a substantial curtain lined with brick, thirteen bastions, and as many ravelins, with six well defended gates. Answerable to these there are two arsenals within the city; one for ammunition and artillery belonging to the Emperor, and the other for small arms belonging to the citizens. The streets, tho few of them broad, are yet all of them fair and moderately straight, ranged on each side with lofty houses of four or five stories high, built with a good appearance, tho not really magnificent; for they shew a regularity of architecture in their windows, cornishes, and water tables, but the materials are only brick walls incrusted in imitation of freestone. Among the buildings of the city are interspersed several oblong piazzas, adorned with fountains, tho of no great art or curiosity. Yet there are two squares, each of which exhibits a considerable public monument; one being the pillar of the Blessed Virgin, and the other that of the most Holy Trinity. The former of these is a brass column, adorned round the four corners of the basis with as many figures of angels, and on the chapiter bearing a noble statue of the Madonna, with her feet resting on a dragon. It was begun by the last Emperor, and finished by the present; and exhibits four religious or superstitious inscriptions, the chief of which is a triumphant declaration of the immaculate conception, as now confirmed by a papal verdict, and hence forward to be received as an article of faith. The latter pillar, called that of the Holy Trinity, is a magnificent column of marble and freestone rising sixty six feet high, almost in the form of a pyramid. It was the work of ten years, finished in 1692, at the expence of a hundred thousand florins, and erected by the present Emperor in commemoration of this city, and the dukedom of Austria, being delivered from the plague in the year 1679. It is adorned in three corners with these inscriptions, Deo Patri Creatori, Deo Filio Redemptori, Deo Spiritui Sanctificatori; and in three other places with larger devotions and dedications, composed by his Imperial Majesty. From the basis it rises in continual orbs and protuberances of clouds, surrounded with several intire angelic figures, out of which are seen the wings and heads of others. But on the top is represented in gilt brass the Most Holy Trinity: the Holy Ghost, as a dove, irradiated; the Son in an human figure, holding a cross; and the Father at his left hand, with no marks of majesty, but clothed in a loose gown, like an old man, bearing a globe in his right hand. At the bottom is the Emperor himself, kneeling indeed in a posture of devotion, but otherwise represented with more marks of honour and majesty, than the Divine Being which he adores. The figure of God the Father is very frequent in Austria, and variously expressed, some times in a nightgown and cap, and at other times with a papal crown.
The cathedral church of this place is dedicated to St. Stephen, and is a stately antient building, having an high tower adorned throughout with crotchets so strong, that it withstood several canon shot in the late siege. It is now repaired, and bears in the work the date of that year, which was 1683. On the spire it has a cross rising from between the wings of the Roman eagle, instead of the half moon, which stood there before by compact with Solymán the Magnificent. The inside of the church is divided into three isles, at the upper end of which are many magnificent altars, with at least thirty more dispersed about the pillars and other corners of the church. Near the principal of these the walls are almost covered with pictures and sculpture, superstitiously dedicated on occasion of so many vows there made; which I call therefore, in the words of that ingenious heathen poet, Tabulis sacer votivis paries. Over the great altar is placed the picture of the Madonna, by the name of Sta. Maria de Boes, brought not long since from Hungary on occasion of its having shed tears; of which, I saw one at Sancta Margarita, who pretended to be an eye witness. The anniversary of the day it was brought to Vienna, and of that, on which it wept, are celebrated by a public feast, when the Emperor likewise hears mass on the occasion. There is likewise another miraculous image of the Virgin at the lower north door of the cathedral, which is daily so thronged with worshipers on their knees, that it gives offence to the bishop of this city, who is endeavouring to suppress the picture, as well as the abuse. In this door is a white stone, worn considerably by the touch of all that enter there, as being thought to be one of those, with which St. Stephen was martyred. Round the body of the church are frequent monuments well carved, and some sculptures of the History of the Gospel, which can scarce any where be exceeded. There is likewise a new saint, whose statue of stone has been lately erected on all the bridges of Vienna. He is styled under his picture, S. Joannes Mepomienus, Martyr, who was drowned by a King of Bohemia for not discovering a confession of the Queen.
Besides this cathedral there are four or five parochial churches, of which the most remarkable is that of St. Michael; but among such a multitude of conventual churches, and each of these furnished with a large number of altars, the parochial are in a great measure obscured. The most splendid convents of the place are first, that of the Dominicans; after this the Benedictines, formerly belonging to the Scotch; then two belonging to the Jesuits, of which one is called the Domus professa, the other the college; next the Minorite Franciscans, then the Angustines, and lastly the Capuchines. Of these the Minorite Franciscans have in their chapel a pattern of the Scala sancta; the Augustines the Capella aulica, and the pattern of the Temple of Loretto; the Capuchines a small but pretty chapel in one side of their church, wherein are buried the deceased of the Imperial family. The roof of the church belonging to the college of Jesuits is now newly painted in perspective, that is inimitable, by P. Pozzo of that society; who likewise did the celebrated perspective in the church of that society at Rome.
Vienna was made the seat of the Imperial family by Ferdinand the second, who translated it from Gratz. The imperial and royal palaces belonging to this place are, one old one in the city, usually called the Bourg; another in the suburb opposite to the Corinthian gate, called the Favorite; a third at Eberstorff, two hours distant from the city; and a fourth at Luxemburg, at the distance of two hours and a half. All these are plain, but capacious and convenient buildings; and the Emperor divides his residence betwixt them, according to the different seasons of the year. But at Schonbran, about two English miles distant from Vienna, is a new palace as yet in some measure unfinished; which is built for the King of the Romans after the Italian mode, adorned in the pinacles with statues, a gentle ascent and spatious stairs up to the entrance, beautified with a regular garden behind, and on the front two ranges of stables and offices, that form a regular square court. The rooms and apartments within are stately and well proportioned, and the doors and chimney pieces richly built with Polonian marble. Besides these, in the way to Eberstorff are to be seen the stately remains of the palace, called Neugebac; which was destroyed by the Turks in the late siege, and is not yet repaired. However there appears a regular front, consisting of proper pillars; and in some apartments of this ruined house are kept several wild beasts of great curiosity. These, with some others at Schonbran, I took an opportunity of viewing, and shall here give a brief account of them. At Neugebac are two lions, one of which is about five years old, but the most stately and majestic as can well be seen. Three cassawares, a species of bird without wings, the body of the size and shape of a sheep, the legs long and thick in proportion, the neck tall with a blue but blunt crest, the feathers black and exactly resembling those of an ostrich. Three tigers, one of a large and unusual size. Two leopards well spotted, their ears short, their head like that of a cat, but their body more approaching to a mongrel greyhound; they are swift, and hunt hares, or other creatures, which are thrown into their walk. Several lynces, nothing different (as I am informed) from the panther; they are spotted with larger circles than a tiger or leopard, and much resemble a wild cat, but exceed it in size. An hyaena, much resembling a mastif, but the nose more round and contracted, a large belly, and a brindled spotted skin. A beaver, which is a little amphibious animal, of a flat figure, with a short neck and legs, a soft and thick fur, and a bare tail. These which follow, are at Schonbran. Several wild goats, the males with large horns, and therefore by the antients called aegoceros. Two ostriches, the one five, the other fifteen years old, the head higher than the ordinary stature of a man, the feathers black, except on the tail and tip of the wings, where they are milk white, the thighs perfectly bare, the legs long and substantial, the feet divided into two broad pulpy claws, which are thought poisonous, and in figure somewhat resembling those of a camel, whence they are called in Latin camelostruthi. Two antilopes. A she elk, a timerous animal, which is made much like an hind, with a broad excrescent mouth. Three uri, in the figure of a bull, but a thicker and shorter neck, with the appearance of prodigious strength, and one of them, very large. But concerning these two last species a fuller account may be seen in Caesar, De B. Gall. Lib. vi. cap. 5.
There are three libraries in this place. One is called Bibliotheca Windhagiana, which belongs to the Dominican convent. Another is at the college of Jesuits, which is larger and better collected. But the third, which exceeds them both, and perhaps all others in these parts of the world, is that, which belongs to the Emperor at his palace in this city. In the Dominican library I saw a monstrous human foetus kept in spirits of wine; with another dried and stuffed, which is double in all its parts, as having two heads, four hands, four legs, and two trunks as far as the navel, where they unite into one body. But what I observed in the Caesarian library will deserve a more distinct relation, which I shall give in the following particulars.
The most eminent Greek Mss. in the Catalogue of Nesselius, with other curiosities by him mentioned, and particularly the pictures belonging to the res vestiaria of the antients; all which may be seen in the catalogue which I had there with me.
Besides what occurs in the Nesselian Catalogue, the antient Ambrosian Ms. of part of Livy, which is clear and legible; tho the contrary is asserted by Dr. Brown[134]. It is the oldest copy now extant of that author, and tho it ends with Lib. XLV; yet there is added at the bottom of the page, Liber XLVI incipit feliciter, as if it was extant at that time, which is conceived by Lambecius to be about a thousand years since.
The Ms. German Bible of the Emperor Wenceslaus, in the margin of which, among other curious pictures relating to the sacred story, he is himself painted in more than fifty places, as washing in his bagnio, where he was once prisoner; together with the bagnio girl, who furthered his escape, and whom afterwards he so passionately loved.
A copy of the golden bull, containing the constitutions of the empire by Charles the fourth, in the first year of his empire. It is now a great curiosity, and was written for the use of the Emperor Wenceslaus, but forty years after the original published at Waremburg in 1356, and still reserved at Augsburg.
An elegant, tho not very antient Ms. of Cicero’s Orations, with another more antient of Ovid’s Metamorphoses.
The Letter of the present Tartar Han to the present Emperor, finely wrote on a long roll of silk.
A printed book of the Confucian philosophy in the Sinese character and language, published by the Jesuits.
A Ms. book of Latin letters, written by the present Emperor to Lambecius, in a neat and elegant stile; in which he always begins with, Chare Lambeci. To this is affixed the following Epigram on the present King of France by the said Emperor, attested by Lambecius to have been written by the Emperor in his presence at Luxemburg, 17 May 1666.
The celebrated Ms. of Jacobus Strada, antiquary to Maximilian the second, concerning antient medals; consisting of eight volumes in this order: Vol. i. and ii. De nummis consularibus. Vol. iii. De Latinis, a Julio Caesare ad Nervum. Vol. iv. De iisdem, a Nervo ad Alexandrum Severum. Vol. v. De iisdem, ab Alexandro Severo ad Claudium Secundum. Vol. vi. De nummis Graecis a Julio Caesare ad Nervum. Vol. vii. De iisdem, a Nervo ad Alexandrum Severum. Vol. viii. De iisdem, ab Alexandro Severo ad triginta illos sub Gallieno tyrannos. This work contains a collection of fair and choice medals, all exquisitely delineated by a pencil, each of which fills a whole page in folio; but the explication added by the author shews him to have been more laborious than learned, and discovers many notorious mistakes, as well in the tongues, as the history, to which the medals relate.
Two fragments, one in the Greek, the other in the Latin tongue, written on antient bark.
The case of this library is very mean, being unfurnished with seats and benches, and divided into four or five distinct apartments, besides another more separate from the rest, in which are kept all prohibited, that is, controversial books in divinity, together with the small remainder of Matthias Corvinus’s library brought from Buda. But it is still a greater disadvantage to this library, that since the death of Nesselius it has for two years been without a librarian, and therefore is difficult of access, and not without a considerable fee. This defect is attributed to the great scarcity of learned men in these parts, especially those of the Roman faith; for which reason the two preceding librarians, Lambecius and Nesselius, being before Lutherans, were obliged to renounce their faith, when they accepted that employ.
Over against the library is a long gallery, adjoining likewise to the palace, wherein is contained the Emperor’s treasury. A noble and truly royal collection is here of innumerable curiosities, both of art and nature, with vast riches in silver, gold, pretious stones, and jewels. But this likewise has the disgrace of being meanly exposed to sale, nor is it ever shewn under the exorbitant fee of twenty five florins; however I obtained two opportunities of viewing it, in the latter of which I took a large and distinct catalogue of the chief rarities deposited there, which would be too large to be here inserted.
The university of this place is a numerous society, appropriated to several distinct nations, particularly those of the empire, and the Emperor’s hereditary dominions; but it is remarkable for nothing but a low contracted institution, and administered wholly by the Jesuites, except that they refuse the office of rector magnificus, as being an expensive honour. The schools are tolerable and convenient apartments, adjoining to the Jesuits college; but the particular students are lodged privately, as every one’s circumstances and conveniency best serve him. But what they call the academy is in its kind more flourishing than the university; being a society instituted at the charge of the whole province of Austria, to instruct the young gentry and nobility in riding, fencing, dancing, the modern tongues, heraldry, history, and other polite arts. Their riding school is a noble room; and adjoining thereto is a stable of about forty managed horses, for the maintaining of which their instructor in horsemanship receives ten thousand florins annually from the public.
The present Imperial family ordinarily residing in this palace consists of the Emperor; the Empress Leonora; the King and Queen of the Romans; Archduke Charles; with the four Archdutchesses, Marta Elisabeth, Maria Anna, Maria Josepha, Maria Magdalena. Of these the Emperor has now passed sixty two years of his age, the King of the Romans twenty four, and the Archduke will be seventeen in October next; the two elder of the Archdutchesses have been some time marriageable, but the two younger are in their state of childhood. The Emperor is of a mild disposition, and conscientiously just, except where influenced by popish principles; he reasons solidly, has a happy memory, is both a lover and composer of music, skilled in the Hungarian, Sclavonian, and French tongues, and has an elegant taste of the Italian and Latin. Both he and his Empress appear truly devout in their way, which they testify by many instances of diffusive liberality and charity, as likewise by their frequent walks in processions, and daily visiting and dining in religious convents. Their garb, especially that of the Empress, is exceeding plain; their coaches and liveries of the old fashion; and their ceremonious dress is the habit and mode of Spain. Only they have now and then, what they call their Gala days, in which there is a great resort to court, and none appear there but in suits of gold and silver embroidery. So that it is the wisdom of this government, which has little reason to brag of its riches, to make this sort of luxury necessary, at a time when its more wealthy neighbours have either by prudent choice, or wholesome laws, wholly retrenched these superfluities. But to return to the character of the family. The Emperor is not only devout, but even bigoted to the Romish church, and fondly addicted to the priests, especially the Jesuits. The King of the Romans on the contrary is severely imbittered against them, but the Archduke is inclinable to tread in his father’s steps. The Empress will sometimes undertake pilgrimages on foot to some famous shrine, or image, in the adjoining country; and promises herself no doubt great benefits from that painful superstition.
The King of the Romans was gone to the siege of Landaw before our arrival; but the remainder of the Imperial family I had frequent opportunity of seeing, particularly at their supper, or the operas, which are sometimes acted in a theatre at the Favorite. It is their custom to salute the Emperor by bowing the knee. Their table is truly moderate, and a remarkable example of temperance and parsimony. Their operas are excessive dull, the action mean and trivial, and therefore more agreable to the low genius and relish of this place. Another occasion, that offered me the sight of the Emperor and the Archduke, was at a certain sport, with which in summer time they frequently divert themselves. They send out a large and expensive train of carts, laden with tents, canvas, poles, and other utensils, into one of their adjoining parks. There in an open green a tent is pitched for the Emperor and his retinue, round which a large and long space of ground is enclosed with high rails of canvas. When the Emperor is arrived, and ready to begin his diversion, a rank of huntsmen sound their horns, the rails drop at one end, and the grand cacciatóre rides out with his attendants to drive in an herd of deer, enclosed near at hand for this purpose. This done, they are forced up to the Emperor’s tent, till at the distance of about twenty yards they stand in a throng together. Hereupon his Imperial Majesty takes a well poised carbine, rests it upon a fixt support, then applies a perspective glass to the barrel, and discharges among the herd; and thus, with the help of the Archduke, he stuns, or maims perhaps, a dozen at twice as many shots. At length they sit down to diner, there talk over their diversion, and give this ignoble slaughter the name of a hunt.
During my stay at Vienna, I had the opportunity of three accidental but remarkable sights. The first of these was the execution of a woman by decollation, whose head the executioner struck off, as she sat in a chair, at one blow, levelled against the back part of her neck, with a two handed stroke, and a broad two edged sword. At these executions there assists, as in Italy, a number of about twenty persons, called the confraternity of the dead, habited in black, with masks, broad brimed hats, and mourning staves. They are a fixed society, composed of citizens of the middle rank, on whom their confessors impose it, as a piece of penance, to assist incognito on these occasions. But most remarkable was the fact and behaviour of the criminal, who was about twenty six years of age, and in the absence of her husband, now three years imprisoned at Presburg, had admitted the embraces of a young man, whom she passionately loved, but at length discovered to be upon the design of marrying another woman. After the most earnest but fruitless endeavours to divert his intention, she invites him one morning to a walk beyond the Favorite, and in a remote place enticing him to kiss her, takes occasion to shoot him in the head. This done, she immediately resigns herself to justice, reveals the whole fact, and implores her speedy dispatch; that so she might have his company in the other world, without whom she could not live in this. She walked with a fresh undaunted countenance to the place of sentence, which tho before designed and notified accordingly, yet is never formally pronounced till the time of execution. From thence she returned to the place of her death, sat down in the chair, and then received the stroke, without ever wavering her body, changing her complexion, or dreading the blow she was to feel. At these executions they often catch the blood of the criminal, as good against the falling sickness[135].
Another ceremony that occurred, while I resided here, was the investiture of the Duke of Saxony, and other inferior Princes of that circle, now at length demanded of his Imperial Majesty, at the Favorite, on the eighth of August. The five several representatives of the Elector and other Princes kneeling before the Emperor, who was seated on a low throne, did fealty in behalf of their respective patrons, rehearsed their pedigrees and title to their principalities, and requested of his Imperial Majesty to be invested in their several dignities. This being granted to them, they then took the proper oath at the feet of the Emperor; afterwards kissed the handle of a sword, which he held forth to each of them; and at last retiring to their first places, there on their knees they recognized the authority of his Imperial Majesty, and so were dismissed.
The third solemnity was a pompous procession, undertaken to accompany the bones of three Saints, namely, Sancta Victoria, Sanctus Alexander, and Sanctus Justus, from St. Stephen’s to the chapel of the Emperor’s palace in the city. They were newly brought from Italy, where being observed by Prince Leichtenstein in his late embassy to Rome, and found to have some relation to Hungary, of which two of them were natives; they were thought proper to be transmitted to Vienna, and accordingly purchased very dear, one of them standing him in no less than four thousand florins. In this procession marched all the religious orders, ranked in their several fraternities, except that the Jesuit disposed themselves promiscuously among the laity. After the monks and friars followed the meaner people, to the number of about two thousand; then the gentry, tho in a smaller number; after them a few of the nobility; then the Archduke and Emperor; and last of all the Empress and Archdutchesses. Each person of this numerous train maintained a decent gravity, except the Archbishop of Vienna, who being dressed in his episcopal robes and mitre walked like a horse in gaudy trappings, flinging about his legs, surveying his rich vestments, and looking up to the ladies and other spectators, who admired him from the windows, under which he passed.
This day I went in a calash, together with Mr. Montague and Mr. Gaugain, to Petronel, a village on the Danube, about twenty four English miles from Vienna, seated in the place of the antient Carnuntum, where M. Antoninus held his capital quarters to bridle the Marcomanni for the space of three years, and then retiring on account of his indisposition to Vindobona died there. While we were on the road, I was entertained by those gentlemen, with a relation of what they had seen the day before. Count Sherradin of Bohemia had several times shot a pistol bullet into a mark of the size of a florin, at the distance of forty yards. And at this he is said to be so expert, that his pages will venture to hold a florin between their thumb and forefinger, which he dextrously uses to strike without hurting them. The like is sometimes practised by the present King of Poland, tho he once broke the fingers of a page in making the experiment. We here saw the remains of a triumphal arch, the fornix of which is yet intire; erected, as is thought by Nesselius and Lambecius, on occasion of that Pannonian expedition of Tiberius, which is so much celebrated by Paterculus[136]. The inhabitants here shewed us various Roman coins, tho none of any noted value. The village now belongs to Count Traun, who is descended from Babo, count of Abensberg, who had forty children by two lawful wives; thirty two of which, being sons, were presented by him to the Emperor, Henry the second, who prefered them all. Count Traun has here a stately palace, called the Castle, where we saw the story of the thirty two sons of Count Babo painted at large[137]. The house is moted round, as is usual all over this country. In the inside is a noble hall, well painted in the roof, and at the entrance of the gate is fixt an antient Latin inscription, which I have here transcribed.
His Excellency with his whole family retired this day from Vienna to Baden, a small town, yet enclosed with an old wall, and celebrated for its baths, which are of pure sulphur. They rise in several places about the town, without any mixture of steel or other mineral, and are there collected into several square cisterns railed about with wood; where people of different quality bathe in distinct bagnios, and in some cases with good success. The town is seated four hours from Vienna, at the foot of the hills, which I take to be the Pannonian Alps. In this place Mr. Paget and I used the constant exercise of walking morning and evening, where I experienced a happy restoration of my health, once much debilitated in Turkey. Gloria in excelsis Deo!
His Excellency now sent Mr. Paget and myself to see the castle of Luxemburg, situated in the way betwixt Baden and Vienna. It is a mean building, in the form of a small quadrangle, and moted round. I observed several curious pictures in it, one particularly fine of the seven liberal sciences, in the dining room of the Emperor; another of the present King of France, when about four years of age; a third of Charles the fifth; a fourth of Matthias Corvinus and his father Huniades. The dining room is observable for an accident of thunder, which, while the Emperor and his family were at diner, entered the room at one quarter, passed in a semicircle about the table, and made its way thro the opposite wall with great explosion; while the Emperor remained in his seat with a remarkable calmness and serenity of mind. Adjoining to this building is a delightful park enclosed with pales; and nearer to the house a thick grove of elm and oak, in which is a long walk, and avenues so cut, as to resemble all the streets of Vienna.
This day Mr. Paget and I by the direction of his Excellency went to see a glass house, newly erected in the hills adjoining to this place, at the distance of about three hours. Our way thither lay thro a delicious vale, which conveys a small river, is graced with green meadows on each side, and above these with rising hills, adorned with a variety of trees, but particularly pines and firs. I here observed the several curiosities of that art and manufacture, which, tho frequent in England, I had never before seen. Returning home we stept a little to the left hand, to visit a convent of Cistercian monks, by the name of St. Cross, founded in the year 1131, by St. Leopold, Marquess of Austria. During the late siege of Vienna it was burnt by the Tartars (the common fate of all this country for thirty or forty Holland miles round Vienna) but soon after rebuilt by its own abbot, Clement Scheffer, in a more stately and splendid manner. Here reside an abbot, a prior, and about sixty monks, all royally maintained by noble revenues belonging to the monastery. They are neatly and gentilely dressed, lodged in pleasant chambers, have their public appartments alike magnificent, a fine garden, and prospects beautified with vistos and avenues cut in the adjoining woods. The abbot was then absent, but the prior and librarian treated us at supper, where we were served with seven or eight dishes, the best old wines, and conversation far from monkish. The librarian particularly was pleased to ridicule the custom of signing all the doors of this country with C. M. B. which the people fondly esteem a charm against fire and thievery; but he, as he said, instead of Cuspar Malcheir Bulkasar, was wont to interpret these letters Cax Mundus Beelzebub. At the same time I could not but be highly offended at a certain jocular freedom, with which he treated the Holy Scripture, saying with a profane mirth, when he delivered to us a glass of wine, Transeat a me calix iste; and when he had tossed off his own, Consummatum est. In truth we here saw not any token of popish zeal or superstition, as is usual in other places, no crucifixes, or images of the Trinity, Virgin, and the like; but instead of these, the whole Imperial family excellently well painted, and these in rooms, which for grandeur exceeded any, that the Emperor is master of in his palaces about Vienna. Here they favoured us with a lodging after a gentile and candid entertainment, and dismissed us in the like manner by eight a clock the next morning. Their library was mean, but the case very neat; tho the library had been much larger before the destruction by the Tartars. However I saw here a good Latin Ms. of the New Testament, without the Epistles of St. Peter, James, or John; and the Apocalypse placed immediately after St. John’s Gospel.
My Lord and his family now returned from Baden to Vienna, where he lodged within the city in the house of C. Stratman, at the rate of five hundred florins a month. At Baden I was able to observe nothing, except some small matters relating to country affairs. As their way of making wine in the field, where they mash the grapes in broad open tubs, and tun it into large casks, as they lie in the cart. The manner of enclosing their vineyards with high poles joined at the top, and burnt at bottom to secure them from corrupting by the moisture of the ground. The manner of drawing sometimes with asses, and at other times with oxen, joining the harness to their horns without the use of yokes. I observed likewise their custom of calling a public officer upon the death of any animal; before which they dare not touch the carcass, he only being impowered to carry it away to a certain place, and there flea it, for which he receives three florins. This officer is called the hound slayer, because twice a year he is obliged to kill all the dogs both in town and country, that are found without a collar, which is thought an institution against spreading of infectious diseases.
This day I waited upon Mr. Stepney, who among other papers from England shewed me that traiterous Epigram, written in praise of Sorrel, or the horse, from which his late Majesty received his fatal fall.
There was brought to his Excellency’s house a male child, seven years of age, born at Rigetsch, three miles and a half from Papa, of a beautiful countenance, but without legs or thighs; and the left hand deformed, but the right intire. It walks, and raises itself with ease, while its trunk supplies the use of one leg, and the right hand that of the other. The hips terminate in a round figure, not unlike a woman’s breasts, and have in the middle an excrescence exactly resembling a large nipple. The child is healthy and lively, and from the crown of the head to the extremity of the trunk is three palms and a half long.
I had now, in company of several English gentlemen, an opportunity of seeing the Emperor’s collection of pictures, which is exposed at the price of twelve florins. It consists of three long galleries, with four or five large and square chambers. The whole number of pieces amounts to a thousand six hundred and sixty three, performed by the best hands of Europe, particularly these which follow: Albert Durer, Anton. Correggio, Bassan, Palma senior and junior, Prugel senior and junior, Paul Veronese, Bronzini, Franck senior, Paduanino, Jo. Bellino, Poussin, Gerome Poss, Portononi, Spagnoletto, Raphael Sancio, Giorgioni, Titian, Tintoretto, Van Ach, Holbein, Rubens, Van Dick, John de Heem, Pauditz, and others. Among these there was one piece of Raphael, which seemed to excel the rest, being a saint holding a crucifix, which belonged to the cabinet of King Charles the first of England, and was sold by Oliver to this court for twelve thousand florins. Besides this collection of pictures, there is another set of rarities, preserved in a cabinet at one end of the third gallery, and consisting of intaglios and cameos; among which is a large head of Domitian in agate; a series of gold medals, and among them two of Otho, to which is added a Pisennius Niger in silver of the third size. In the same cabinet are several small statues of brass and stone, among the rest those of Venus and Hercules; and likewise several antient busts, particularly of Plato and Aristotle; with divers sepulchral lamps, urns, and other remains of antiquity. To say nothing of the curiosities found in the tomb of Childeric the first by Leopold William, Archduke of Austria, and uncle to this Emperor, at Tournay in the year 1657. Among these are some remarkable gold coins of that time, with the repeated emblem of flies or bees, the wings of which at a distance give the figure of a flower de lys, and are supposed to be the real arms of France, tho this resemblance has occasioned their being mistaken for that flower. But more especially is to be remembred the order of antient busts ranged on one side of the three galleries, among which are several heads of Emperors, and Satyrs, with one of Socrates; as likewise an intire figure of Magna Mater turrita, with a lion under her chair, a tympanum in her left hand, and patina in her right; which cost this court a thousand florins at Rome.
I went to visit Mr. C. Boét, a famous painter in enamel, who had a salary from his late Majesty, whose picture, with those of other confederate Princes, drawn by him he now shewed me. But that which is most remarkable, he is at present working for this court the largest piece, that ever was known in enamel, being an oval of eighteen inches by fifteen; which contains the figures of the Emperor and Empress, King and Queen of the Romans, with the Archduke, the four Archdutchesses, and the two young Daughters of the King of the Romans. He was sent for hither by his late Majesty on purpose for this work, for which when finished he is by compact to receive four thousand ducats of gold. The materials of it are a copper plate covered with a white enamel, which being hardened in the fire, is afterwards painted over in colours of a peculiar composition, with oil of lavender and rosemary; and then again put into the fire to receive a gloss, and additional hardness; after which it is liable to no accident, but that of breaking. It may be observed, that all the red colours in this work are made of gold.
This day by order of his Excellency I waited on the two young Messieurs Olmeus and others, in order to see the Emperor’s treasury the third time, and thereby perfected my catalogue of those rarities. And his Excellency being then preparing for his departure, the Emperor presented him with six thousand dollars.
His Excellency with his retinue now set forward from Vienna towards Holland, and proceed two german miles to Entzersdorff. A little before the midway we cross the Danube over a wooden bridge four hundred paces in length, and continue near the banks of the river to the above mentioned town. And as we continued there the following day, I walked down to the banks of the Danube, where it flows under the castle of St. Leopold, near Cloyster Newburg, and in the extreme point of Mons Cetius.
This day we proceed two German miles and a half further to Stockeran, and there meet C. Schlick, Mr. Stepney, Mr. Montague, and Mr. Gangain, with whom we proceed three miles and a half further to our lodgings at Holibrun. And from thence his Excellency, with the said company, the next morning goes out an hour to Count Sereny’s, there to wait on the King of the Romans, now returning from the campaign on the Rhine. By one a clock the King and Queen arrived at the Count’s, where his Excellency had an audience of both their Majesties; after which they sat down to table, and his Excellency and company dined with the court, and afterwards returned to Holibrun.
This day we advance about five miles further in Austria, and then crossing the Teya enter into Moravia, now called Makren, and take up our quarters at Znaim, the Medoslanium of Ptolemy. This is a fair and fortified town, tho of the old fashion, upon the river Teya, which runs hence into the Morawa, antiently the Marus, and with that into the Danube. In the year 1645 this town was taken and pillaged by the Swedes. It has two market places, in each of which is a good fountain; and in one of them the image of the Virgin, erected on a fair pillar, and inscribed with a new sort of Gloria Patri, that is, Lavs Deo, Mariaeqve Virgini, Sanctisque svis. There are likewise several convents, of Capuchines, Dominicans, Jesuits, and Premonstratensians; and it is remarkable for excellent endive.
We stay this day at Znaim, and the day following proceed three German miles to Budwitz, thro pleasant woods of fir, with fertile open feilds. And moving from thence the next morning, three more German miles carry us thro Babitz and Drumna to Pernitz, by a pleasant way, thro a country sometimes open and well tilled; and at other times thro delightful woods of pine or fir, intermixt with juniper and a few birch; but scarce any other shrubs or trees in the whole country. At Pernitz is a convent of Paulins, so called from Sto. Francisco di Paula, a strict order, that eats no flesh nor fish throughout the year. In this place live several Jews, who are bound to wear blue ruffs, as a mark of distinction.
Two German miles thro woods of fir and arable ground bring us to Iglaw. This city, reasonably well fortified, has a large and clean market place, round which the houses have false fronts, and are handsomely painted on the outside with pleasant landskips or histories. At the upper end of it is a statue of the Virgin on a column, like that at Znaim; both seeming to be an imitation of that at Vienna. We bait an hour at Iglaw, and then pass on one German mile to a small village, called Steken. But immediately beyond the wall of Iglaw we pass a river of the same name, and there enter into Bohemia, whence we continue our way over a large lake, with a road cast up betwixt the two branches of it, and delicate woods of fir adorning its banks. This wood is of large extent, and seems to be a continuation of the Sylva Hercynia in this country, now called Behemerwaldt.
We stay this day at Steken, where I had leisure to observe in general concerning Moravia, that the country is fertile and well tilled, except where it is overrun with pine or fir woods. The people are all slaves to the lords of the several mansions; but this extends only to their labour, not the property of their gain. The language of the place is Behemish, a dialect of the Sclavonian; but at inns and other public houses they ordinarily speak Tuysech. The government it divided into five districts, of which there are as many captains, but the command of the whole province is committed by the Emperor to Count Thorn. The river Morawa is likewise called Mark by the Germans; which latter name seems to relate to the antient inhabitants, the Marcomanni (who with the Quadi were here settled) as the former name does to the Moravians. Through the whole extent of the country we frequent meet with large lakes, at the distance perhaps of an English mile.
This day we proceed one mile and a half to Tuytschenbrodt, an old fortification on the river Sazawa, and from thence two miles to Habern, in a wood on the right hand. Tuytschenbrodt was the place, where General Zeiska beat the Emperor Sigismund, and by that defeat drove him out of Bohemia.
One mile brings us this day to Janikaw, and two more from thence to Czaslaw; the place where Ferdinand the second narrowly escaped being assassinated by an Italian, hid for that purpose in an oven. Half a mile farther carries us to a small hamlet, called Wasser Cratz. Of these towns Janikaw is the place, where the battle was fought betwixt the Swedes and Imperialists in 1645; and Czaslaw, where General Zeiska lies buried.
From Wasser Cratz we proceed one quarter of a German mile, and then having the city of Kuttenberg on our left hand, a little farther in the road we pass by two Imperial mines, where they are now at work, and dig up a mixt oar, consisting of copper, lead, and silver, a specimen of which they then shewed us. At one mile and a half from our last lodging we come to Kottin, and there breakfast. Then proceeding another mile and a half, we arrive at Blanyan. From Kottin flows the river Elb, which takes its name about five miles below that place, and is there scarce navigable. As we travel, we keep it in sight on the right hand, and the woods still on the left.
Two miles and a half from Branyan carry us to Oval, thro an open arable country, with a continued tract of woods on our left hand. In the midway we bait at the poor town of Bohaimsbrodt. But the day following for two miles and a half we pass thro a pleasant grove of birch and pine, and afterwards thro open ploughed feilds to Prague.
His Excellency staying this day at Prague, I took that opportunity of viewing every thing I could of that noble city, which is thought to be the largest in Germany. It is inclosed with one intire wall, two third parts of which are regularly divided into curtains and bastions; but the remaining third is old and defenceless. Tho indeed the whole town is commanded by ascending ground, that no fortification can make it long defensible. The Muldaw, a large and rapid river, divides it into two parts, which are again joined by a fair and stately bridge of stone, seventeen hundred feet long and thirty five broad, supported by twenty four arches. Both parts of the city are adorned with great variety of magnificent buildings, the most remarkable of which I visited in this order.
Adjoining to the Star inn, where his Excellency lodged, is the new convent of Irish Cordeliers; and in the same neighbourhood are two seminaries, one called that of the Archbishop, and the other that of St. Norbert, patron of this kingdom; both which profess academical learning, but in societies distinct from the university of the place.
Hence the way leads us to the townhouse, a large and stately building, which at one corner has a piece of clock work, giving the motions of the seven planets. On one side of this opens a fair piazza, with two curious pieces of workmanship. The first of these is a statue of the B. Virgin trampling on the Dragon, erected on a stone pillar, on the pedestal of which are four Angels defeating the like venomous monsters. This implies a triumphant declaration of her immaculate conception, and imitates that work before observed at Vienna. The second curiosity is a fountain of carved marble, with a basin of twelve sides, on which are cut very beautifully the twelve signs of the Zodiac.
From hence we pass to a college of Jesuits, a noble and spatious building. The church is a fine fabric, and prodigiously rich; the cloister large, and adorned with agreable pictures; among the rest are large tables divided into little squares, containing the short history and pourtraiture of the eminent persons of their order for preaching, missions, and conversions, among whom are a great number of English.
The same way leads us to the bridge above mentioned, and thence to another college of the Jesuits; but the third, and most splendid of this order, is in that part of Prague called the new city, which we had not an opportunity of seeing.
We now turn to the right hand, and in an eminent part of the city are brought to the Emperor’s palace, old and irregular in outward appearance, but within its precincts is the old cathedral church, an handsome Gothic building of the year 923, as appears by an inscription on the chief altar. The stateliness of the old architecture, with the richness as well as beauty of the modern ornaments, make it a venerable pile. They have here a picture of the Virgin, which is pretended to be of St. Luke’s hand. At the gate entering into this palace there is another in sight, which is the residence of the Archbishop.
From the cathedral we are carried to the Capuchin cloister, which consists of a small but most beautiful quadrangle. Round the four sides, under a fair portico, are painted thirty different copies of so many of the most eminent and miraculous images of the Virgin, each in the proper garb, posture, and colours of the originals; and the remaining space of the wall beneath is filled with votive tables, in acknowledgement of favours received from each picture. I thought this collection observable, in that it is an apparent instance of the different representations of the B. Virgin, who is not invoked under the same character in all places, and on all occasions; but according to the fancy of the first painters, and the superstition of the late devotees, is split into so many distinct objects of worship; as the Lady de Victoria, de Litera, de Consilio, Crysostomiana, Cyrilliana, Bernardina, Lauretana, Eremitana, Cellensis, Passaviensis, Wranoviensis, Hallensis. As this shews how polytheism crept in among the heathen, who first of all worshiped God under so many distinct attributes, and afterwards as so many distinct beings; so it argues greater superstition in the church of Rome: for instead of the several characters of Venus, as Cypria, Cytherea, Victrix, and others; or of Diana, as Aricinia, Leucophryne, Taurica[139]; we have many more of Sta. Maria. In the middle of this quadrangle is an handsome imitation of the chapel of Loretto with the Virgin and our Savior above the altar in the complection of Moors; and on the outside walls are various religious stories elegantly represented.
From hence we proceed to the celebrated cloister of Premonstratensians, called the Shawhoff in which above an hundred persons are maintained in a princely manner. I was here shewn a rich chapel, wherein before the incursion of the Swedes were many large and curious statues of solid brass, particularly those of the twelve Apostles; which by Count Koningsmarck were converted into canon, when he took this part of the city, tho he was soon again repulsed. In the middle of the church, in a stately open monument, is preserved the body of St. Norbert, the founder of this order. Over the tomb is suspended a gilt crown of a prodigious size, the diameter of the rimb being at least three ells. After the chapel I saw their library, which is neat and well filled, but with books in the taste of the last age. They have here a monkish contrivance of a wheeling desk with six sides, on each of which may lie several books, so as to be turned round in their order, without falling off in the motion. From the library we passed to their private chapel, wherein is a crucifix, which the monk, who shewed it us, attested to have seen illuminated in the night, while no candle was in the room. In an adjoining gallery is a large statue of our Savior, which they affirm to have once sweat blood about the neck, and shew the marks thereof still remaining. From hence we are carried to their winter refectory, a large and regular stove room, well contrived for warmth and beauty at the same time. But their summer refectory is a pattern of beauty, proportion, and magnificence, being paved with black and white marble, with three large windows on one side, and round the walls about twelve large pictures of eminent persons of their order; and the whole is exceedingly well contrived, both for the entertainment of the mind, and repose of the body. They shewed us likewise another large room, with a numerous collection of their most meritorious members in little squares; and last of all the chambers of the monks, with two adjoining gardens, one for the fathers, the other for the brethren of the society, which completed the pleasure of the sight.
Next to this convent we went to see a Jewish synagogue, of which there are eight in this place, the number of that nation amounting to above ten thousand, who for distinction sake are all obliged to wear a blue ruff.
On the stately bridge over the Muldaw are to be observed several curious statues of the Virgin; of our Savior; and of the new Saint lately set up in all parts of this kingdom, as well as on all the bridges of Vienna, being a curious piece of cast brass with this inscription: