He was here drowned for not revealing to the King of Bohemia a confession of his Queen.
The famous university of this place, which in the time of John Huss consisted of forty thousand students, is not even now so far diminished, but that when they have occasion to assault the Jews, or other citizens, they can muster about twelve thousand. They consist of young persons, not collected into regular societies, as with us, but lodging in private houses, from whence they repair to the public schools at the appointed hours of lecture. There are three of these schools, one in each part of the city, where all academical learning is professed by the ablest of the Jesuits; for these have the sole direction of the university, and are the only rich prevailing persons in Bohemia, particularly in the capital city, where they amount to the number of a thousand.
This day we leave Prague, and proceed four miles, thro an open ploughed country, to Sloney. In the way we receive the confirmation of the good news, which we first heard at Iglaw; that seventeen Spanish galleons in the port of Vigo were fallen under the power of our grand fleet, eleven being taken, and six sunk; and that the whole squadron of Chateaurenault, being twenty nine men of war, were either sunk or taken.
His Excellency continues yet at Sloney, a small but walled town, with a large market place, as usual in these parts. It was formerly a seat of protestants, and therefore barbarously destroyed by Ferdinand the third. The day following we intend for Launa, three miles from hence; but the place being taken up for the quarters of five thousand Saxon soldiers, now moving against Bavaria, we lodge at Clamston, half an hour short of it; where we continue two days, by reason of a great quantity of snow, which then fell.
Leaving Clamston, at the distance of one quarter of a German mile we pass under the walls of Launa, and there cross the Egra by a long wooden bridge, covered with a penthouse, as is usual in this country. From thence we come to Bitin, the estate of Prince Lobcowitz, where we bait one hour; and from thence proceed to Deplitz, the estate and seat of Count Clery, remarkable for an hot bath.
His Excellency from hence designed the straight road, by the way of Framstein, Friburg (where are silver mines, and the tombs of the electors of Saxony) Waltheim, Coldick, Walcowitz, and so to Leipsick. In the mean time he permitted me to quit his retinue, in order to see Dresden. With this intent I take a post waggon from Deplitz to Peterswaldt, the distance of two miles, in which I pass the hill of Kaiasberg. From Peterswaldt I take a new post, and soon after I have left the town pass the boundary of Bohemia and Saxony; and at two miles end changing post at a little village not far from Pirn, by this third post I come under its walls, and presently am upon the banks of the Elbe, along which I ride about half an hour, and then quitting the river arrive about five a clock at Dresden, being in all six miles from Deplitz. It being now dark, I repair immediately to my lodgings at the house of one Leonard Serert, betwixt the two market places, a civil host, who spoke both French and Italian. The way from Peterswaldt to Dresden is very agreable, being interspersed with woods of fir. The villages are better built, and more populous, than those of Bohemia; where indeed neither towns nor villages are thin, but the people very few, and those dejected with a sense of poverty and slavery, occasioned partly by the tyranny of the church, and partly by the constitution of the government, which makes the peasants slaves to their Lords, as in Moravia.
I continue at Dresden this and the three following days, to observe the curiosities of the place. It is a neat well built town, with straight and fair streets, compact but not large, enclosed within a regular fortification, and a deep foss constantly filled with water. It stands upon the Elbe, over which it has a noble bridge, almost as long as that of Prague, supported by eighteen arches, and on each side affording a delightful prospect along the bending chanel of the water. By this bridge the city is joined to a neat suburb, called Old Dresden, the residence chiefly of merchants, among whom I found two Englishmen, Mr. Northleigh and Mr. Dealing, by both whom I was kindly treated. Dresden was always the residence of the Electors of Saxony, till this present Elector was chosen King of Poland. However it is the ordinary seat both of the Electress, and the Prince, who is six years old; but both of them happened to be absent now. The Deputy of the Elector is the Prince of Furstemberg, who is of the Popish religion, but the whole town is intirely Lutheran. They have three churches, St. Cross, Sta. Sophia, and the chapel of the court. St. Cross is a large antient Gothic building, well adorned in the inside, particularly with a carved and stately altar. The number of ministers is about twelve, whose revenue is very small, and therefore the people here complain, that they make up that defect by the abuses of confession. The palace is a fair stone building, consisting of two courts, of which the first is large and regular, adorned both within and without with very good carving, and painting in fresco, which deserves regard, particularly one part of it that fronts the street, and represents a Roman triumph. The gardens are likewise curious, and the riding school is remarkably spatious; but what obscures every thing else in Dresden, and perhaps all others of the same kind in Germany, is the kunstkammer, with the arsenal, and stable of the Elector. Each of these are shewn to strangers at the price of three florins, the curiosities of which I reduced into a catalogue. On the bridge at Dresden is erected a curious brass crucifix, not inferior to that of Prague in the workmanship, but far exceeding it in design, and bearing an inscription, that disavows all superstitious worship.
At six a clock this evening, it being then very dark, I take a passage in the ordinary post chaise for Leipsick, paying four florins for the space of thirteen German miles. By ten at night we come to Misten, and there cross the Elbe over a large covered bridge. The benefit of the star light gives me opportunity to observe some part of the town, particularly the castle seated on very high ground. Hence we continue our journey all night, till about ten a clock the next morning we come to Wurzen, where we dine; and then ferrying over the Muldaw, now a large and rapid river, after having endured a cold and severe snow all the day, we arrive at Leipsick about five a clock in the afternoon, where I provide myself with a private lodging.
This morning his Excellency and his retinue arrive at Leipsick by eleven a clock, and lodge at the Golden hen in the high street, to which place I therefore now remove myself.
Leipsick is a neat and compact place, well built, the streets almost straight, and conveniently wide. The market place is a regular quadrangle, surrounded with fair and lofty houses, among which is the town hall, or court of justice. Not far from the market is another small square, at one end of which is a new and spatious room, to which we ascend by stone steps. This serves for an exchange, where the merchants meet. The city has three large churches, one of St. Nicholas, another of St. Thomas, and a third called the New Church. These are all well beautified within, especially that of St. Nicholas, the altar of which is a neat pile, representing in good sculpture the burial and resurrection of our Savior, his shewing his wounds to St. Thomas and the other disciples, and over the whole his ascension in a cloud. At the upper end of the two outward isles are painted two good pieces of perspective. The town has no public buildings, besides an old castle, and a new hospital; the latter of which serves both for the reception of lunatics, and also a house of correction for vagabonds. The fortification is regular, and of the new fashion, but not of any great importance; however it has a foss, that may be filled with water upon occasion from the Pleiss, which washes the walls of the city.
The town is governed by a senate of twenty three, of whom three, called Burgomasters, have the prime authority; and by a chief magistrate, who has the title of consul, and is chosen annually. The present consul is one Romanus, a young gentleman of great fortune, and vast designs; who is erecting a noble palace in the city, built of free stone. Among the senators are several persons of quality, who have fair estates, and a learned education.
There is a good library belonging to the city, lately purchased at the expence of the senators, and which they daily improve by new accessions. Among the citizens of this rank and character I contracted an acquaintance with Mr. Wagner, who speaks good English, and has been long preparing a comment on the obscurities of Barclay’s Euphormio, concerning which he has commissioned me to make several enquiries. Another person of the like learning and civility is Mr. Graevius (brother to the eminent critic in Holland) who has the care of the city library, and favoured me with the sight of it. These with many other particulars, that might be mentioned, are arguments of a rich and flourishing city; which is occasioned partly from the confluence of students to the university; and partly from the benefit of three celebrated fairs of fourteen days each, which are annually kept here, and furnished with merchandizes of all sorts, not only from the several parts of Germany, but likewise from Italy, Hungary, France, Holland, England, and other countries.
The staple commodities of the town are the linen manufacture, and a natural blue earth, which is dug only in some metalic mines of Saxony, and which to the vast advantage of this place is exported from hence to England, Holland, and elsewhere, for the use of dying. As to the execution of justice, adultery is here a capital crime, but in this case the criminal must be convicted by his own confession, to which they oblige him by force of torture. The beauty of the city, which appears to a good advantage by day light, is however not lost in the night, by means of their new lamps, which are ranged in an orderly manner, stand very close to each other, and are kept with great neatness. The gardens of the principal gentlemen, and merchants here resident, are without the fortifications; and being as well exceeding rich, as beautified with great art, add a noble ornament to the place.
The university is in a flourishing state, and has a true taste of polite literature, especially as to philosophical studies. Tho I know not whether they merit that character with regard to classical learning. It is not now so numerous as formerly; because Hall, which within these ten years has been erected into an university by the King of Prussia, depriving them of their numbers, has reduced them perhaps from three to one thousand students. They have six colleges, called Paulinum, Petrinum, Majorum and Minorum Principum, Rubrum, and B. Mariae Virginis. Each of these have their praepositus, and some few stipends. But when we mention academical colleges abroad, we must fall much below the idea of those, with which we are so happily acquainted at Oxford and Cambridge. In these colleges are their auditories, or schools, of public lectures for philosophy, and the three superior faculties. These are regularly taught by their respective professors, of which the university is furnished with six in divinity, five in law, four in physic, and nine in philosophy, humanity, and history. Besides these, several of the more eminent doctors, and elder students, have their private lectures, to which the younger resort at their pleasure, and this with greater frequency and better success, than to the lectures publicly established. The degrees in philosophy are that of batchelor and master of arts; in the faculties, of licentiate and doctor. Persons of note in the university, whom I visited, were Dr. Efficke professor of divinity; and Dr. Otto Menchenius professor of moral philosophy, who is likewise the editor of the Acta Eruditorum, of which I purchased an intire set from the year 1682 to this present time, consisting of twenty five volumes in quarto. Other eminent persons, with whom I had a more frequent conversation, were Dr. Goëtze, Dr. Menchenius junior, and Mr. Olearius junior. The two former are doctors of law, and the latter professor of humanity. To these I may add Mr. Thomas Fritsel bookseller, a person who has made an useful tour over Europe; speaks several modern languages, as well as Latin; and to whom I was obliged for a particular mark of courtesy, and the present of several useful books. Not only he, but the three gentlemen last mentioned speak good English, which language is much esteemed and studied in this place. Dr. Menchenius shewed me the little work of Alcyonius De exilio, which I was glad to see, because it is said to have been compiled out of Cicero’s treatise De gloria; which the plagiary for that reason took occasion to suppress. Dr. Goëtze among several fair manuscripts, and old editions of classic authors, shewed me a neat but antient satyr On the Pope and Court of Rome. It is a manuscript, as yet unprinted, in Elegiac verse, entitled Eironeia Gaufridi. He has also a curious and fair manuscript of Columella, another of a Greek Menologion, a very old Greek Testament, printed in Spain, with the Latin in the margin; but exactly referring in every word by cautious notes from the known to the unknown language, lest the monks of that time should have taken γενέσεως to signify liber, and βίβλος generationis. In another old Spanish book, concerning the antiquities of that country, he shewed me a copy of the old Gothic character; in which it is observable, that the vowels are generally incorporated with the consonants, which they follow.
In the two libraries of this place, the one belonging to the university, the other to the senate, I took notice of the following curiosities.
In the former I observed two celebrated pictures of Luther and Melancthon, both taken after their death. Several specimens of what they called moneta bracteata, lately found in Saxony; but which I take to have been only leaves of silver covering a mass of inferior metal. An old manuscript of Homer, with large Scholia, which they here think have never been published. The draught of an old idol worshiped in Germany; the original of which was a short brass image of an human figure, hollow within, and contrived to make an artificial wind issue out of his mouth, like the globes of that sort now become so common.
In the library of the senate I observed an Egyptian mummy. Several Roman urns and funeral lamps. Saxon urns, like others which I observed at Dresden and elsewhere, full of thin fragments of bones; in one of which were found several small iron and brass instruments, and upon a thin plate of brass the two following letters, ⲱ. ⲉ. A fine collection of coins. A good manuscript of Theocritus. A noble specimen of the rich silver mines in Saxony, in a mass about three feet long and two broad, the whole of which almost is pure metal.
Adjoining to the Collegium Paulinum is the university church, where they have prayers on festival days. It is full of antient and modern monuments, all of good work. This university took its rise from the dispersion of the Hussites, and the banishment of John Huss himself from Prague. And by its first constitution it is appropriated to four nations; the Misnians (of whom Leipsick is the metropolis) the other hereditary countries of the Elector of Saxony, the Bavarians, and the Poles. The chief magistrate annually elected here is called rector magnificus, as in other German universities; and in him, with his subordinate officers, rests the sole government and jurisdiction of this learned body. The present rector is Dr. Cyprianus, professor of divinity.
It was in Leipsick, that I first observed the Lutheran manner of communicating. The priest and the deacon, who assists him, are habited in surplices, copes, and sleeves, like those of the Greeks and Romanists. The service is chanted by the priests standing, and the people round about at a distance, but in the same posture. The consecration being ended, the communicants draw near, and on the north side of the altar approach the priest, who delivers into the mouth of each of them still standing the consecrated wafer. The communicants from thence walk round the back part of the altar, and so come to the deacon, from whom they likewise standing receive the cup, and thence return orderly to their proper places. In the mean time, while the species are delivered by the priest on one side and the deacon on the other, two choristers habited likewise in copes and surplices attend each, holding under them a rich pall of velvet, or other stuff, to receive any particle of the elements, which may fall accidentally. This done, they likewise chant a thanksgiving service in a standing posture, and so depart. The ecclesiastics of the place wear large white ruffs, not only in time of divine service, but likewise as their ordinary habit when in public; and with this a round cloth cap, like that lately alloted to the commoners in the university of Oxford.
These are the principal observations I had leisure to make at Leipsick, where his Excellency staid from the sixth to the fourteenth of this month. On this day therefore we proceed on our journey five German miles to Hall over an open arable country. This is an antient city, founded and perfected by the several Othos, Emperors of Germany. It is now large, but meanly built, tho famous for its salt pits, from whence it has the name of Hall. In these they work night and day with an uninterrupted diligence, nor ever cease, but in the time of divine service on Sundays. It is situated on the river Sala, which name corresponds with that of the city.
The King of Prussia, as has been said, Sovereign of the place, opened an university here some years since, which at present flourishes with about a thousand students, and several professors of eminent note, among these are Strychius, Thomasius, and Franckius. The last is the person, who sent me formerly into Turkey several little tracts of his own composition, which had been translated into Latin and Italian, in order to be distributed here. I therefore visited him this evening, and discoursed with him upon his famous project of an ample charity; by which he maintains above six hundred children of both sexes, and that by no other fund, than collections gathered by his own industry. Three hundred of these, being boys, he has reduced to a college, which he now calls the Orphanotrophium. It is an handsome building, well contrived for the reception of so many poor orphans, for their diet, lodging, schooling, clothing, and afterwards their removal to some proper calling. He has here a printing house for the use of the society, and from thence have now been published several treatises, of which he presented me with two, concerning the Jewish history, and the ecclesiastical government of Bohemia. The King of Prussia, who is thought the principal supporter of this great charity, has lately authorized the Orphanotrophium under an ample patent, and allowed both the society, and the founder of it, several honourable and advantageous privileges. By this great undertaking Mr. Franck proposes to lay a scheme and foundation for the reformation of manners, and better advancement of learning at the same time. But as he is one of the primary Pietists in all Germany, the opposite party among the Lutherans in these parts, who in distinction call themselves the Orthodox, cease not to calumniate both him and his design. Tho how justly, God only knows. He delivered me a packet for Mr. Ludolf, and commissioned me to salute Dr. Bray, and Mr. Woodward of Stepney, with whom he corresponds in relation to this intended reformation.
From Hall we now pass to Koendern, and by the way cross the Sala in a ferry boat at Alsleber, leaving Eisleben, the birth place of Luther, a little on the right hand. The day following we continue our journey from Koendern to Aschersleben, leaving Paidleburg in sight on the left hand. And the next day we move forward to Halberstadt, palling from Upper into Lower Saxony in this day’s journey. Halberstadt is a large town, subject to the King of Prussia, having about fourteen churches, which are pretty equally divided betwixt Protestants and Papists.
This day we leave Halberstadt and proceed to Hessen, a small village belonging to Rodolphus Augustus, Duke of Brunswick; who has here an old moted house, with a pleasant garden, and a fountain of brass work, which for the variety of animals there artfully represented, and the device of the whole, deserves to be remarked. We continue here the two following days, and then set out for Wolfembutel, where we arrive at night, and lodge in the suburbs.
His Excellency departed this morning from Wolfembutel with a design to go directly to Hildesheim; upon which I desire leave to take a different road, in order to see Brunswick, Hanover, and Hamburg. However I spent this day at Wolfembutel, in observing what was curious there.
The town is pleasantly seated on the river Ocker, in a place not so intirely level as the other parts of Lower Saxony, but enjoying a variety of rising and declining ground, with a convenient mixture of woods, which hitherto we observed to be intirely wanting from Leipsick to this place. The city is compactly built, has fair and large streets, tho no very stately edifices, and is well fortified with a regular wall, and a double foss. It has two remarkable churches, one of which is the cathedral, an old Gothic building, adorned with a variety of sculpture and statues; and the other is a new church, lately erected by the present Duke of this place, in a peculiar form. It has an ascent at the front by a handsome staircase on two sides, and then opens into a perfect oval, which is supported by six stately pillars, and covered with a cupola. Directly facing the door is a piece of good work in sculpture, representing the Virgin, and other religious figures; and under this in a small orbicular desk, which appears as an ornament of the work, is seen the pulpit. Underneath is a table of wood, set so distinct from the wall, that it cannot properly be called an altar, and at each end are two high steps for the kneeling of the communicants. For the Lutherans, who in some places communicate standing, do the same in others kneeling; and the notion of an altar, with the posture of receiving, are in their opinion things indifferent. The castle of this place (which alone is properly Wolfembutel) is just without the wall of the city, and is the residence of the Duke. He has here an academy for the use of young gentlemen of all nations, where they are instructed in the arts of fencing, riding, dancing, and other exercises. But what is most remarkable, in the precincts of the castle is the celebrated library, founded by Christianus Augustus, the father of this Prince. It consists of two large and spatious galleries, ranged all round with books, and filled in the middle with a double row of desks, which in the inner gallery likewise contain shelves for books of lesser volumes. It was collected with great assiduity, and at a vast expence, by the said Prince; who himself employed his pains intirely in this design, and wrote the several catalogues digested in various orders, and consisting of eight volumes in folio, with his own hand. The present librarian is the famous Mr. Leibnitz, who at this time did not reside upon the place; but an assistant of his shewed the library, and observed to me the following curiosities. A collection of printed Bibles, the largest and most curious, which are any where to be found. A large manuscript English Bible in folio, which seems very antient and begins thus: In the erste made God of nought the hevens and the ery, and the ery forsooth was vein and veyd, and darknesses weren upon the face of the zee. At the bottom of the first page is wrote Lumley in later characters. A manuscript Greek Testament; and two printed copies, one of Aldus and the other at Hagenoa, in which is wanting that famous testimony of St. John concerning the three, that bear witness in heaven. An antient manuscript of St. Jerome’s Bible, written about four hundred years since, by one who subscribes himself Abbas Gaufridus Vitulus; and at the end of the same has delineated himself, with the head of a calf. A manuscript Aethiopic Testament, given by father Kircher to the founder of the library. A copy of the Psalms, written in those characters, which are called Ciceroniani and Cyprianici. A voluminous collection of modern Histories, in four hundred manuscript volumes in folio; among which are thirteen called Chroniques d’Angleterre. The whole number cost the Duke two thousand four hundred crowns; but it is thought, he purchased them much to dear. A fair turning desk with six leaves, like that before described in the Praemonstratensian library at Prague. A fair Herbal, with each flower delineated in its proper colours. A roll of the Pentateuch, and a vail now used by the Jews in reading the Law. Several reliques of Luther, as his spoon, drinking glass, leaden inkbottle, and a Letter in his own hand to one of his contemporary bishops, in which he sends the salutes of his wife in these words: Salutat te, Dominus meus, Ketha reverenter. Two books written by Prince Christian himself, founder of the library: one De ludo scacchia, in the German language; the other in folio, called Cryptographia, treating of cyphers and other secret devices, in the title of which he calls himself Gustavus Selenus, meaning Augustus Luneburgicus. A fair edition of the vulgate Latin Bible by Aldus at Venice, which reads in Genesis iii. 15, Ipsum conteret caput tuum, instead of the usual ipsa.
The present Duke Antonius Ulricus, and his brother Rudolphus Augustus, who resides at Brunswick, have the title of Brunswick and Lunenburg in common with their eldest brother the Duke of Zell, and their nephew the Duke of Hanover. But their proper government is the territory of Brunswick and Wolfembutel which they govern by joint name and authority, both being equally sovereign in each. Rudolphus is about seventy two years of age, plain and unaffected in his carriage, insomuch that sometimes he takes a private journey to Hamburg where he walks the streets in the disguise of a country gentleman. But Antonius is a more polite and accomplished prince, affecting the French behaviour and education; for which end he here maintains the academy above mentioned He is courtly, and condescending, and greatly beloved by his subjects. He is now about sixty three years of age, and has two sons; of which he, who shall live to be his heir, will jointly inherit the authority and dominions both of his father and uncle Rudolphus.
This morning I take the post waggon for Brunswick, which is seated on the same river as Wolfembutel, in a watry plain, having a large extent, but narrow streets, and houses of the old fashion almost intirely of wood, most of which have a date over the door of three or four hundred years standing. The stadthouse is of the same or greater antiquity, and adorned with a variety of statues on the outside. The town is fortified, but neither with great regularity nor strength. The castle is the residence of the Duke, being an old decayed building. I staid here from nine in the morning till three in the afternoon, where I found the mum, for which this place is so celebrated, not so good, as that they export for sale. It is made only of malt well brewed, and the liquor boiled a second time in an equal quantity of the same. However the art is peculiar to this place, and cannot be imitated at Wolfembutel, tho it is so very near. Nor, on the other hand, can the excellent beer of Wolfembutel be equal’d here. They are likewise famous for a large sort of sausage, which is made of raw meat and spices.
At three a clock I depart for Hanover by the way of Peine, with an intention, as is here the custom, to travel all night. In the way betwixt seven and eight a clock (which at this time of the year had been entirely dark, unless for the benefit of the moon) the post horses tired in an open feild, and refused to stir a step farther; by which means we were detained above an hour, till the postilion procured others from a neighbouring village. I was then in company of an Italian man and a French woman, whose company somewhat relieved the affliction of this accident. By twelve a clock we reach Peine, and after half an hour’s refreshment the Italian and I proceed for Hanover, thro a wide and watry common.
By eight a clock this morning I arrive at Hanover, where I wait on Mr. Cresset, and his chaplain Mr. Lombard. And being invited by the former to diner, we no sooner rise from table, but news was brought, that my Lord Paget, having changed his mind, had turned out of the road for Heldesheim to this place; to whom therefore I repair at his lodgings without the gate of the city.
Tho this was Christmas day, his Excellency had nevertheless no service in his family. And the day following I made a visit to Mr. Scott, Sir Chumley Deering, Mr. Wright, and some others. The next day being Sunday, his Excellency had service in his family. At five a clock in the evening I was introduced by Mr. Scott, and lady Belmont, to kiss the hand of the Princess Dowager Sophía, who did me the honour to discourse with me half an hour about the state of Turkey. The same night a tragedy was acted at the theatre of the court, and afterwards the Mariage forcé of Moliere; which I then saw, for the opportunity of seeing at the same time the Prince Elector, the Prince his son, and the Princess his daughter, with the Electress Dowager, who were all present.
His Excellency proceeds in his way to Osnaburg; but I continue still at Hanover, with an intention to take post for Hamburg, and dine this day with Mr. Cresset. The day following in the afternoon I visit the library and cabinet of Abbot Gerhardus, otherwise called Molanus. His cabinet consists of a vast collection of modern coins, particularly those of Germany, among which he has intire sets of the houses of Brunswick and Saxony. He has likewise a rich and numerous collection of medals of all the European kingdoms, stampt upon the most celebrated occasions; and many of them are gold, some of which weigh an hundred ducats, and others but little less. Those of Sweden seemed to me the noblest both for the work and device, particularly one of Gustavus Adolphus, upon marching his army over the frozen Baltick, with this inscription: NATURA HOC DEBVIT VNI. Another of Charles the eleventh, with the reverse of the North star, and inscribed: NESCIT OCCASVM. Those of the house of Hanover are likewise curious, particularly one of the Princess Dowager, stampt by her about fourteen years since; the reverse a sun setting without a cloud, and the words: Senza turbarmi al fin m’accosto. Another of the young Prince George Augustus, the reverse a fountain springing up in a strong perpendicular column of water, with this legend: VIS INSITA DVCIT IN ALTVM. Besides these he has a good collection of antient medals; the most remarkable of which were Julianus the first; and Antinous of the first size, if genuine, the reverse a sheep.
By eleven a clock this night I depart in the post waggon for Zell, and in the way make these observations on Hanover, and the persons I saw there. The town is moderately large, fair, and compact, seated on the Leine, and reasonably well fortified. The palace of the Prince is old, and mean in outward appearance, but within beautiful and splendid. The clergy here is but meanly esteemed, and more meanly provided for; except that Abbot Gerhardus has an income (the sole remainder of church lands not sequestered) to the yearly value of eight hundred pounds sterling. By this preferment he is superintendent of the whole clergy in the territories of the Duke of Brunswick Hanover, and is by the same incapable of marrying. The Elector is a sage, discreet, just, and sober Prince. The Princess his mother is courteous, affable, condescending, and prudent; well versed in the Dutch, English, French, and Italian languages; and gay and vigorous to a miracle at the age of seventy two. The young Prince is brisk, affable, and ingenious. The Princess, daughter to the Elector, comely, ingenious, lively, and her courteous behaviour charms all, who converse with her. Mr. Cresset, who has long resided as Envoy to this court, and those of Zell, Brunswick, and Wolfembutel, is a wise and pious gentleman, has a family well governed, and lives much to the honour of himself and his country.
By seven a clock this morning I arrive at Zell, where I remain the rest of the day, and take that opportunity of seeing the castle; as likewise the venerable old Duke, William George, now eighty years of age; to whom I was admitted by the favour of Mr. Robbeton and Mr. De la Forest, two gentlemen who here shewed me great civility.
I set forward from Zell, and lodge this night at a post house, in a small village called Sorndorf. The country is here pleasant, with a variety of fir, oak, and other wood, but for the most part barren, and overrun, with heath.
From Sorndorf I reach Harburg by twelve a clock this day, dine there, and then take boat for Hamburg cross the Elbe. The river is here above a German mile broad, and interspersed with various islands. In the evening I delivered Mr. Cresset’s recommendations to Mr. Aldersey, who thereupon received me courteously, and procured me a good lodging from Mr. Townly in the English house. I was detained here to the twenty eighth of this month, partly by the extremity of the frost, which had made the Elbe now unpassable; and partly by the kindness of our English merchants, who reside in this place.
Hamburg is a free imperial city, chief of the Hanse towns, and seated on the north side of the Elbe, where it receives the Alster. The figure of it is semicircular, being almost straight towards the Elbe, which it receives by many chanels into the very heart of the city. Some of these chanels serve as harbours to the ships, others to convey goods to the magazines of merchants, and others to bring water to the houses, particularly of the brewers, who have cranes to draw water into their vessels. It is about two Italian miles in length, and above five in circumference. The streets are well paved, tho narrow, and the houses beautiful in the front, especially in the Wantrum, the Green, and Catherine street. The fortifications are substantial, consisting intirely of ramparts of earth, covered with grass, and not faced with brick. They are constantly maintained in good repair; tho it is commonly objected to them, that the inward works are too high, so that being raised too much above the outward, they are exposed to the first attack of the enemy. There are six gates, all beautiful and stately buildings; that particularly, which is called the gate of Altena, because it leads to that place, is said to have cost an hundred thousand crowns. The strength of the city was lately tried, in the year 1686 (If I mistake not) by the King of Denmark, who then laid siege to it, tho without success. He had depended upon the treachery of two principal burgers, who had promised to admit him into the town; but their treason being accidentally detected, and they put to the torture, the matter was soon confessed, and they deservedly executed. The head of one of them is still exposed on an iron Spike over the Steingate. In confidence of this concerted treachery that Prince came so unprovided, that he could invest no more of the town, than that which faces Altena which gave occasion to the Holland gazeteer to say, that the King of Denmark had besieged the eighth part of Hamburg. During the siege he was baffled even by the small castle, called Sternfort, about a mile distant from the town; which by a line of communication they releived every day at twelve a clock, and so maintained it against the enemy. To add to the strength of the city they are now building a new detached work, consisting of an intire rampart, to be continued from the east side of the Alster to the Elbe, which is a noble fortification, and will at the same time guard and enlarge the space of the city. It is divided into the New and the Old City, the former of which is the more stately and beautiful of the two.
The religion of this place is Lutheran, in which the government is so strict, as to admit of no other religious assembly, except that of the church of England, which is allowed to the English company. The city is divided into five parishes, that of St. Catharine, St. Peter, St. James, St. Nicholas, and St. John. To each of these are dedicated so many fair and spatious churches, all well adorned with sculptures, paintings, organs, and altars. That of St. Catharine exceeds the rest, and is particularly remarkable for a noble stone pulpit, the whole consisting of the bed marble, carved into the figures of the twelve Apostles, and other religious devices; for several large inimitable pieces of painting in fresco against the north wall; and for a stately organ, supposed to be the largest and finest in the world. It has fifty four stops, and consists of five thousand pipes, all gradually proportioned from the biggest, which is three fourths of an English yard in diameter, to the least, no larger than the last joint of ones little finger. In the same church is admirably well painted the Temple of Solomon in perspective. Besides these parish churches, there is the cathedral, commonly there called the Dome; and a new church in the middle of the New City. The Dome is now almost out of use, except for some occasional sermons; and the porch, with the several isles, are possessed by booksellers shops: tho this is what is likewise common to the porches, and other outward apartments, of the most frequented churches. The five parish churches, and that of the New City, have each of them their pastor, and besides him two or three chaplains; so that the number of clergymen here amounts to above twenty, of which one is superintendant over them, and the clergy of the whole territory. This however is very small, as not reaching down the river Elbe farther than the limits of Altena, a large town within half a mile of Hamburg, belonging to the King of Denmark. On the other sides it is encompassed with the dominions of the Duke of Holstein, at the distance of two or three miles; only up the Elbe it has a narrow tract of ground subject to the city, for the space of twenty miles, in which are some small villages, that acknowledge its jurisdiction. The church lands belonging to the cathedral are now possessed by burgers, or others of the city; but under the same titles, by which they formerly belonged to the church, as dean, canons, and others. Which sequestration, as it seems to be a sacrilegious usurpation; so their continuing the right under the same titles, is only a monument and confession of the crime.
The government of the city is by a free and sovereign jurisdiction of their own, which is lodged in three orders of men, the burgomasters, the senate, and the burgers. The burgomasters are four persons chosen out of the senate, of which two are yearly regent. The senate consists of about twenty, chosen as vacancies happen out of the burgers. The burgers compose the whole body of the citizens, ranked under their five distinct parishes. This government some what resembles that of antient Rome, by consuls, senate, and people; and is excellent in itself, but very liable to be perverted by the prevalency of any of the parts, of which it consists. This is at present seen in the case of Hamburg, where the burgers by reason of their multitude, and the seditious spirit of inferior persons, have so far usurped the power of the place, that they terrify the senate, and stop all public proceedings, which are not to their relish. Particularly they are now so obstinate, as to refuse their consent to the supply towards the war, required by the Emperor, and to other public levies of the city, till they can extort the consent of the senate for restoring one Dr. Meyer to his pastoral office of St James. This is a violent seditious man, suspected of an ill life, but of a ready overbearing eloquence in the pulpit; who, about five years since had quitted his pastoral office in Hamburg, for another like charge, and superintendency in Pomerania. His parishioners now recall him to his cure at Hamburg, which he publicly declines; but privately encourages, and thereby occasions a lamentable faction and sedition in the town. His own and two other parishes press his return, and refuse to treat of other business, till the senate shall consent thereto. But they being duly cautious of admitting so dangerous a person into the city, who is now more particularly suspected of intriguing against them, in dependence on the King of Sweden, will never admit thereof; especially as he insists upon returning in his own rank, and in prospect of the same seniority, he before obtained in the place.
The burgomasters of this place never appear in public, but in a peculiar dress; which consists of an high crowned hat made of cloth, plated thick and strong in numerous folds; with a large ruff; and a black velvet coat ending at the knees, and plaited from the middle. There are likewise several other antient habits used by all public persons, even to midwives, dressers of the dead, and those who bear the corps to funerals. The habit of their divines is a round black cap, a ruff, and a gown without sleeves. All these may commonly be seen at once in the solemnity of a funeral, which they here affect to make very pompous for all persons, even those of little children. The burgomasters, senators, divines, lawyers, physicians, and as many of all sorts, as they can procure, attend the corps from the house to the church; for which they are each paid a certain fee, the chief about a florin, and inferiors proportionably. It is observable, that the bearers of the corps have a peculiar step, all moving their leg at the same time croswise from one side to the other.
This city wholly subsists by trade, which it still enjoys to a great degree. But they now complain, that they begin to be robbed of their former flourishing commerce by Lubeck and Bremen, and even the poor town of Altena, which with regret they see rising under their walls. Here is the staple of linen from Germany; cloth from England; and wines from Spain, France, and the Rhine. Of this last the city preserves a vast stock in public cellars; the largest of which, being a magazine of Rhenish wine, I visited one evening, and was there assured, that they have the wine of every year since 1623; and accordingly we then drank of three sorts, 1623, 1664, and 1678. At the same time I tried the perfect clearness of the loaf sugar of this place; which they purify to such a degree, that it does not discolour the cleared Rhenish wine.
The English company, which upon the decay of Antwerp removed to this place, is a regular, gentile, and hospitable society of merchants. They were here granted large privileges, which they still enjoy; tho at home our English parliament has lately infringed those, which they had permitted them. Their goods from England are imported free of custom, except that they pay a trifle as an acknowledgement. Their own jurisdiction, and religion, is freely granted them. The town first presented them with a large piece of building, which they obliged themselves to keep in perpetual repair. In this there is a public chapel; and an apartment, which they call the Ordinary room, where all the company, who are unmarried, dine and sup at one table, and the deputy governor and assistants meet upon public occasions. Adjoining to it is the house of the deputy governor, the minister, and the secretary; all likewise given by the town, and maintained by them. The governor of this company at present resides in England; but the other officers, as the deputy governor, secretary, and assistants, to the number of twenty four, are all resident upon the place, and dispatch all business relating to the society; which is contrary to the custom of the Turkey company, the governing part whereof always resides in England. The deputy governor and secretary are chosen, or confirmed, either quarterly or yearly; and the same is practised with the minister, whose salary, besides the benefit of an house, is two hundred pounds a year. The number of merchants, assistants, and others, may here amount from thirty to forty persons; and with their wives, children, and servants, their congregation (which is very regular) is seen on Sunday from an hundred and fifty to two hundred persons. My conversation during my stay at Hamburg was chiefly among these; and I had more particularly the friendship of Mr. Free, deputy governor; Mr. Aldersey, secretary; Mr. Emerson, minister; Mr. Stratford, Manning, Lethieullier, and Remington merchants; and their respective families. I preached every Sunday, while I continued here; and received many tokens of favour from the whole company; particularly on the sixteenth of January, a present of a silver tankard, value forty crowns. At the same time I had the honour of being known to Mr. Wyat, her Majesty’s resident at this place, and deputed likewise to the Hanse towns of Bremen and Lubeck.
There is a good and well furnished library belonging to this city, which adjoins to the church of St. John. And during my stay here I had the opportunity of conversing with Jo. Albertus Fabricius, a person of great learning, and famous for some works he has already published. I visited likewise Mynhéer Langerman, a druggist, who shewed me some curious ores; and pieces of eight, fished up from a Spanish wreck; with the piedra de puerco, about the size of a large nutmeg, which is found in the bladder of some hogs in the Philippine islands, a great sudorific, and esteemed a sovereign remedy against intermitting fevers. One stone is usually valued at a hundred ducats.
The night I visited the wine cellar at Mr. Manning’s house, we saw a man, named George Po, born at Prague, who eat raw flesh, glass, paper, and above all things raw flax and tow, which he devoured very greedily, and called it his chief delicacy. He likewise swallows large stones, and accustoms himself to devour all unnatural substances, even perukes; tho of this last he is now somewhat cautious, since his twin brother died by eating one at Halberstadt. A senator’s wife of this city maintains an opera house, where they have a prodigious large stage, and great variety of well painted scenes. Here Mr. Lethieullier one night entertained us to our great satisfaction. At the same place, and belonging to the same woman, is shewn the famous model of Solomon’s Temple, being the exact resemblance of that fabric, as described by the best authors, expressed in every part by carved wood work to the hight of an English yard, and all the inward apartments perfectly exhibited to the eye, as the workman takes it to pieces for the satisfaction of the spectators. This ingenious machine cost no less than ten thousand dollars.
The inhabitants of Hamburg are censured as proud, formal, and ceremonious; the magistrates as addicted to vice, libertinism, and self interest; and the people as turbulent, and seditious; whence many prognosticate ill to the trade, and future power of the city. The language, which they here speak, is called the Plat Dutch, being a medium betwixt that of Germany and Holland.
During my stay here, I was informed of a detestable practice, frequent among many melancholy and disordered persons of this place; who being weary of life, and apprehensive of the sin of self murder, rather choose to murder some innocent child, and by that means to be brought to capital punishment, by which they attain their desire of death, with the advantage, as they imagine, of a previous time for repentance, without the guilt of their own hand. At the same time they esteem the child, whom they choose to sacrifice, to be without any guilt of conscience, as having not yet arrived to years of discretion[140]. This tragedy happens every year, as many experienced witnesses among our merchants assured me; and they attribute the frequency of the practice to the great facility of their confessors, in affording peace and fair promises to all sorts of dying penitents.
Another tragedy lately acted at Hamburg was of a monstrous virago, born in the dukedom of Zell, who by an unnatural disposition of her uterine parts was capable of acting the part of a man; and accordingly she made it her practice in rambling from place to place to marry at each a young woman, several of whom she had murdered. With her last spouse, whom she had let into all her mysterious impiety, she murdered one of her former wives; as likewise a man, whom they had cajoled for sometime into their company, and whose head they afterwards boiled for venefical uses, as they pretended. But being caught and tortured, they confessed this black history of their life, and were executed here about a year since.
The campain about the neighbourhood of Hamburg is green, and well distinguished with wood and shade; but at a farther distance, like other parts of Lower Saxony, it is a dull and unfruitful heath. The immediate circuit of the walls affords delicious walks, all kept in good repair, and adorned on each side with rows of trees, kept in a beautiful order. Sometime after we had received the account of the capture of the Spanish galleons at Vigo, happening to have a leisure hour, I amused myself in writing the following short poem upon that agreable subject.