This day about nine a clock, being a very rainy morning, I began my departure for Adrianople together with Mr. Farington; being favoured with the company of Consul Raye, Signior Hochepied, and nine or ten of our nation, as far as Hadgelar, where we were detained this evening by the rain.
The rain continuing, we still remain at Hadgelar, in the house and company of Signior Laspaul. Among the sepulchers adjoining to this village, upon a stone pillar, are to be seen the four following imperfect inscriptions, cut at different times.
We set forward this morning by six a clock, and about midday journeying to the left of mount Sipylus, and the fair city of Magnesia, we first cross a small bridge over a river, which feeds the Hermus, and about one a clock pass the Hermus itself, on a bridge of an hundred and sixty paces in length. From hence we ride half an hour on the silver banks of that pleasant river, and thence over the plain to Tartalécui, where we conáck.
We proceed on those fair plains, which lead towards Thyatira, and within an hour of the town come to the Hyllus or Phrygius, not now passable at its usual ford; we therefore ride along its banks, and crossing near to Thyatira arrive there in six hours from our last conáck. This city is seated in a pleasant and fruitful plain, well watered and wooded, and rich in many productions, but particularly that of excellent cottons. About the city I observed a great quantity of misseltoe on pear and almond trees, so thick on some of them, as to form the appearance of a true evergreen, covered with its own leaves and branches. And the like I afterwards observed on an alder, not far from Sorrícui. I here took these three Greek inscriptions, which have not, that I remember, been observed by others; and were before omitted by me, when at this place. The first of which is as follows.
The second is this:
The third thus:
To these may be added the following military epitaph.
We set out by eight a clock this morning, and at an hour’s distance from the city once more cross the Hyllus at the meeting of two opposite hills, which shut in the plains of Thyatira. Hence we pass thro a forest to Gelemba, an hour before which place occur caves with square and regular doors cut out of solid rocks. At Gelemba we lodge in the great kane, by the door of which at the distance of ten or twelve yards runs the famous Caicus. Here we drank a pleasant sort of Turkish liquor, made of grapes steeped in water with flower of mustard seed.
By break of day we set forward, and in one hour’s travel begin to mount the foot of Temnus, a low but large and difficult mountain, and at the same place cross the first branch of the Caicus, not far from its fountain. We pass the rest of this day thro a stony road on the Temnus, and upon the same mountain six hours from our conáck lodge at the unpleasant Kurugelchíck; where we were joined by two Turks, Mustaphá and Chalíl, who accompanied us to Adrianople.
We travel still over the Temnus, and on our right hand discover a large open vale on the top of the mountain, rich and well cultivated. In somewhat more than six hours we had passed the Temnus, and enter into a rich plain extended all along the backside of Ida, now Cordág; at the foot of which, about four miles distant from the road we descry the agreable seat of Balihísar. From this side of Ida thro a rich and fertile campain flows the river Aesépus, now called Simow by the Turks, which we cross by an old bridge at the village of Mandahóra, and there take our conáck in a large and convenient kane; which is more to be noted for its seven large pillars of course porphyry, now employed to support the roof of this barbarous edifice, but might possibly once stand in some fabric of antient Troy, from whence Mandahóra is distant about ten hours.
By eight a clock we set forward from Mandahóra, leaving the Aesépus to surround those hills on our right hand, whilst we proceed a shorter way, over small hills and dales, to meet it again in six hours and a half at Susegierlíck, where we were entertained in the public kane with excellent pike taken in that river.
We begin to bend our course more directly towards the Hellespont, and in order thereto proceed over a tract of gentle mountains, which Homer calls πόδα νείατον Ἴδης[99]; now frequented with wild beasts, but pleasant for the prospect they afford us on our right hand, whilst we pursue with our eye the whole course of the Aesépus almost as far as Mihalíck, where it enters the sea. In three hours we pass by an old village and adjoining castle called Minyás, which name it likewise lends to the neighbouring plain and lake; the former of which I take to have been antiently called the plains of Zelia, and the latter the λίμνη Δασκυλίτις[100]. Not far from hence flows a river by the modern name of Mulvetelée, passing into the adjoining lake; after which are small hills and pleasant villages, till in five hours we descend into the plains of Zelia, which are pleasant, fertile, and well cultivated. Here we pass thro large fields of wallnut trees, which bring us in five hours and a half to the banks of a fair and broad river; which I take to be the Tarsius of the antients, and by the Turks is now vulgarly called Tarza. We were here obliged to ferry over with our horses three together in a boat, the stream being not securely fordable. In one hour and half from thence, thro a level and verdant campain to the left of the above mentioned lake, we come to Humumlée, and there conáck. The lake we leisurely viewed from our conáck, and could compute it to be about thirty miles in circumference, being always full of water, and stored with plenty of fish, among which it then furnished us with delicious pikes. We were here informed, that the river, we lately passed, empties it self into this lake, from whence by a new chanel it takes its course to Mihalíck, where together with the Aesépus it soon after falls into the sea. And directly beyond this lake we then beheld the fair exalted hills of Cyzicus, and the Peninsula Cyzicena.
By six this morning we leave Humumlée, where we had been lodged not inconveniently in a farmer’s house, and riding thro a continued campain begin to view the snowy head of Ida. But in some time we again lose sight of it, and in five hours from our setting out approach to Bozacgée, seated in the Adrastian plains[101]; and at the same place to a large and fair river, by the Turks named Bocléw[102], which we leave on our left hand, till in two hours we cross it by a dangerous wooden bridge near Sorrícui[103], and there conáck.
By six we leave Sorrícui, and proceed a little way, where a fair is held at St. Georgetide, which continues for the space of ten days, and is much frequented. We then mount a high and steep hill, which bears a stately and extended wood of oak; the lower shrubs of which produce a quantity of galls, and at the roots of these the ground is overspread with an excellent and well scented sage. On the top of this hill in three hours we have a near prospect of the sea, and isle of Marmora, with one side of the Peninsula of Cyzicus. By the fifth hour we begin to descend on the other side into a pleasant and green plain, and by the seventh arrive at Dimotico, a market town, vulgarly so called from the corruption, as I suppose, of the antient Didymotichos. At this place occurs a moderate river with a wooden bridge; and an hour beyond the town a large one with a fair bridge of stone, built by the munificence of Sultan Mahomet the fourth. Here are to be observed the marks of a royal way, denoted by two equal and regular barrows on each side, by which lies the Grand Signior’s road to the wars. Hitherto our way had all along surrounded mount Ida, which often favoured us with the sight of its hoary head, and many rivers flowing from its watry bowels. We had now an hour farther to reach our conáck at Pismetlée; but losing our way, we were conducted by a cowherd (who was cudgel’d into this civility by Mustaphá bey) to a small pleasant village an hour farther in our journey, where being obliged to force our reception, we were thereupon lodged in the mosque of the place. This will appear an instance very singular in Turkey, and was looked upon as an abomination by the imám of the parish; who could not enter that place of his worship on the following morning, without saluting us three times with Stifer Alláh, that is, God forbid.
In an hard road betwixt barren hills we travel this day towards Jerdáck, a village which is the scale for passing the Hellespont, seated within half an hour of the antient Lampsacus. This road led us within four hours to the shore of the Propontis, along which we proceed four hours farther to our conáck, where the sea contracts it self into that strait chanel, betwixt Lampsacus and Callipolis. Here we find a large kane, in which are about twelve antient marble pillars, each of one fair intire stone, some round, others chanel’d, and of various orders; all which I conclude to have been undoubted reliques of the antient Lampsacus. In the yard of the mosque at Jerdáck I took the two following Greek inscriptions
By nine this morning we transport ourselves and horses by boat from Jerdáck to Gallipoli, and in three quarters of an hour arrive by God’s blessing on the European shore; where we bid a joyful farewel to that of Asia, after a severe sea sickness, which I endured in the passage. At which time three years and three months had passed, since my first arrival at Smyrna.
Callipolis, now called Gallipoli, was taken by the Turks in the reign of Orchán, and anno Hegirae 760. It is now a city considerably large, but thinly peopled, and decayed in commerce; tho it still plentifully enjoys that of cottons and aniseed. It stands upon a blunt point of land, betwixt two small open bays, of which that to the north is exceeding pleasant, and has on its green banks two fair Turkish sepulchers, the newer and more magnificent being that of Sinán pashá. Adjoining is a kane of very gentile fashion, with a mosque, and other instances of charity. The southern bay has the walls of the antient arsenal, for the lodging of stores and galleys, which formerly wintered in this place. Besides which the vast rocks, which lie before the town, are very remarkable; being a strange but natural mixture of sand, pebbles, and cockleshells, of which materials all the houses of the town are built. Here I saw a stone figure of our Savior’s baptism in the river Jordan, with another of the B. Virgin, carved contrary to the practice of the Greek church in basso relievo.
We remain at Gallipoli this and the following day, expecting Mr. Farington’s caraván. The breadth of the Hellespont is here much inlarged, which at Lampsacus, according to Xenophon, was but fifteen furlongs[104].
We set forward from Gallipoli in a smooth and pleasant road, which by degrees ascending begins quickly to show us the narrow isthmus of the Chersonésus, with the Propontis on one side, and the gulph of Cardia, or Sinus Melas, on the other, the extreme neck of land being scarce three miles broad. Our road now inclines to the left hand, and so brings us round the blunt end of the gulph, into which flows the fair river Melas, which about the fourth hour from Gallipoli we cross at a regular and well built stone bridge. Hence we have a stony and mountainous way to Allalmalée, a Christian village, where we conáck. Before bed time we had here the company of the poor ignorant παπᾶς, who among other things told us, that he lately gave the bishop of Heracléa seventy dollars to ordain his son a priest.
We depart from Allalmalée, and in two hours and a half arrive at Malgara, where I observed a Turkish drink called bozók, being a whitish thick beer made of millet seed. This is a large and pleasant town, abounding in the production of honey, and bears the name of a lady, who redeemed its security from plunder for a vast sum of money, from the first Turkish conqueror. It is now reserved as a place of banishment for the prime ministers of the empire. We proceed homeward till about the sixth hour of this day’s journey, when having lost my watch the preceding evening, we searched the company upon some suspicion we had entertained of a catergée, who yesterday joined us; and accordingly we find it concealed in the corner of his breeches. In ten hours we arrive at Derrícui a small Christian village, and there conáck. I must not omit, that this day we discovered to the left the mountains of Samothrace, the course of the Hebrus, and more forward the snowy top of Rodope.
In two hours from our conáck we arrive at Uzunkuprée, a town which has its name from the fair adjoining bridge of an hundred and sixty six arches, and by Saidino is called Ponte d’Erchiene[105]. We were the full space of fifteen minutes in passing this bridge, and towards the further end, which is the most conspicuous part, we observed ten or twelve heads carved on the battlements, that enclose the bridge, in memory, as it is said, of so many chief workmen strangled by Sultan Morát the first (who founded it) for building it so narrow, as not to admit of two carts at once. In two hours farther we arrive at the sandy and delicious banks of Hebrus, just opposite to the city and castle of Dimotico, where Sultan Morát began to seat the palace of his emperial residence. From hence we pass along the bank of that slow, but then plentiful river[106], and after two hours and a half take up our lodgings in a cold inconvenient hovel at Elchilée.
By five this morning we proceed in a level sandy road on the banks of the Hebrus, where we observe a vast quantity of wild fowl, and by nine arrive at the palace of my Lord Paget in Adrianople, being filled with admiration at the beauty of the river, campain, and prospect of so fair a city.
Adrianople is seated on the Hebrus, at the place where it receives the Tunsa and the Harda. It is a fair and compact city, about five miles in circumference, rising gently on the side of a small hill from the banks of the Hebrus and Tunsa[107]. What is there remarkable, may be reduced to the seraglio, mosques, and sharshées. The seraglio is built in a flat and verdant plain, at the foot of the city betwixt the Hebrus and Tunsa, but more immediately upon the banks of the latter. It is surrounded almost on all sides with a thick grove of beech and elm, which within form the resemblance of a park, and outwardly yeild a grateful prospect, in regard that the countrey about it is almost wholly naked of wood. A square wall encloses the fabric, which is truly mean, and of a confused intricate figure; but, as is commonly said, well contrived for convenience. The matter is plain free stone, and the covering of lead. Nothing can be more grateful to the eye, than the sight of this level verdant situation; and yet in regard of its lowness, and too near approach to the rivers, nothing more unwholesome. It seems to stand in the very same place, where Constantine gave that famous defeat to Licinnius[108].
The mosques observable in this place are those called Eskijamí, the Three Sheríffs, Sultan Bajazet, and Sultan Selím. The first of these is so called from its antiquity, which Morát the first here established, and converted to that profane use from a Christian church, of which it still retains the intire figure. The second is to be observed for the abundance of porphyry, which appears in the fabric, and the various architecture of the four minarées, together with many serpentine pillars, which support the porticos of the area. The third likewise has many serpentine pillars round the area, and those of interrupted veins and distinct materials, which seem to persuade one, that they are of a cast substance. But the greatest beauty of this city, and as some think of the whole empire, is the mosque of Sultan Selím the second, built by him out of materials brought chiefly from the ruins of Famagusta, in the island of Cyprus. Yet in regard that the area is not square, nor supported with so rich or correspondent pillars, excepting four that adorn the front, I esteem it inferior to the two noble mosques of Solymán and Achmét at Constantinople. Otherwise it is a fair structure, built with great conformity of its several parts, and like a theatre consisting of one stately room ending upwards in a cupola. It is adorned with four regular and beautiful minarées, each of which has two hundred forty four stairs leading into the uppermost balcony. For in each of them are three balconies, that imitate the capitals of pillars, between which the whole body of the column is regularly chanel’d. One of these is famous for having three staircases winding one within another, of which one opens into the three balconies, another into the two highest, and the third only into the last of all. From thence we once took the opportunity of viewing the several parts and precincts of the city, the plat of the seraglio, the course of the rivers, and the face of the countrey below, with the busy care of the several mortals, wandering like so many ants on that spot of earth then subject to our eye. Here I could not but pleasantly recollect those templa serena of Lucretius, L. i. ℣. 8.
Adjoining to Sultan Bajazet I was shewn a madhouse or bedlam, which is a noble building of a round figure, covered with a regular cupola, and having a large area in the middle, and therein a cistern of water; but conveniently divided all round into six chambers made archwise, and opening on one side into the area. Here were kept three madmen, all furnished with clean mats, and tied close down to the pavement by an iron chain fastned about their neck for greater security.
The sharshées are two long and fair porticos, walled with brick or stone on each side, and securely arched over head, so as to resist fire. The shorter of these adjoins to Sultan Selím, and is appropriated to the shoemakers: but the other, being about four hundred paces long and six broad, is filled with shops of various trades; all which are shallow niches in the wall of equal hight and breadth, and in general so regularly contrived, that the whole represents a beautiful and rich gallery.
The whole way from Gallipoli to this place lies thro a campain rich and fertile, abounding with villages, and those almost all Christian. However it wants the lovely fountains, frequent woods, and pretious shrubs of Asia.
Sir Robert Sutton, successor to my Lord Paget in his embassy to this port, who arrived at Adrianople about Christmas last, had now his audience of the grand vizír. My Lord Paget, with the retinue of his own family, and the English merchants now resident in this place, repaired to the palace of his successor about twelve a clock. At the same time came thither from the vizír, the chiaush bashá, with an horse richly furnished for Sir Robert, and about thirty others for the use of his retinue. From hence the two ambassadors conducted by the chiaush bashá, and attended by a large retinue of the English nation, proceeded to the palace of the vizír. Upon their arrival into the room of audience, the vizír soon entered, supported by his kayá and the reis effendi, and congratulated with acclamations from his whole attendance. He seated himself in a corner of the sophá, and the ambassadors sat before him on two stools. After the old ambassador had presented his successor, Mauro Cordato, who is master of the ceremonies, and dragoman to the Ottoman Port, gave and returned the ordinary forms. Then Sir Robert delivered his Majesty’s letter to the vizír, after which both ambassadors were treated with coffee, sherbet, and incense, and the whole ceremony at length concluded with the distribution of about twenty four caftans. The vizír is about sixty years of age, of short stature, and a meek serene countenance; tho at this time somewhat moved with concern for the loss of his only son of two years of age. At this ceremony he appeared in the selimée turbant, which is a cap of state, and was conceived to do an honour to the audience. It resembles the form of a sugar loaf, only indented at the bottom on four sides, and bound obliquely with a gold ribban.
Sir Robert Sutton had his audience of the Grand Signior at the seraglio of this place, whither he rode about seven a clock on a horse of state, conducted as before by the chiaush bashá, and attended by all the gentlemen of the English nation. At these audiences it is the custom of the Turks to show somewhat of the discipline of their soldiery, together with the process of their justice at the diván. And therefore so soon as his Excellency entered at the first gate of the seraglio, into a large and green court, some companies of the janisaries, ranged on the opposite side, ran with a great but orderly agility, to seize several dishes of their broth, placed at equal distances on the area of the court; after which they were remanded by the churbegées, who ran among the ranks, and instead of words of command ordered them by a certain gentle hissing into their respective stations. During this entertainment his Excellency advanced towards the diván, which is an oblong ground room, opening on the front into a gallery, by which only it is separated from the court above mentioned. It is surrounded on three sides with benches, covered with embroidered silk, and the floor is laid with carpets; otherwise it has no ornaments, nor embellishments of the walls. On the middle of the principal bench, where it faces the door, sat the grand vizír, having one crimson cushion under him, and another to support his feet, by which only he is distinguished from other ministers of the diván. On his right hand upon the same bench sat the caimekám, and Abdollá pashá son of the late Mustaphá Kioprili; but on his left hand the two cadileskérs, the one for Europe, and the other for Asia. The two side benches were took up on the right hand by the nishangeé bashá, and on the left by the tefterdár. Sitting in this order, and maintaining a profound silence, they dispatched several causes of meum and tuum, in the sight of the ambassador and his retinue; in which there was no other process, than the reading several succinct cases to the vizír, together with the depositions of the witnesses, upon which he pronounced his verdict, and the parties were immediately dismissed. But in these, and other affairs of the like kind, the reis effendi and teskergée bashá also assist; the former of which acts as solicitor and secretary to the diván, and the latter is the gentleman usher, who carries all messages and papers betwixt the Grand Signior and the vizír. In the mean time the Grand Signior, tho he is never personally present in the diván, yet he is at his pleasure a witness and overseer of all that passes there, by means of a lattice window, which looks out of his apartments just over the seat of the vizír. These ceremonies ended, there were brought in divers tables and placed before the vizír, the caimekám, the nishangée, and the tefterdár; all which being presently furnished with various Turkish dishes, the ambassador sat down to eat with the vizír, and several gentlemen of the English nation with the other ministers. After this repast (the vizír having first demanded leave for an audience) the ambassador and all the rest of the English gentlemen retired into a distant part of the gallery, which fronts the chamber of the diván, and other lodgings of the seraglio, where they were all vested, and then sat down in order till the diván arose, and the several ministers proceeded to the apartments of the Grand Signior, the latter preceding, and the vizír closing the procession. Soon after his Excellency was called to take his audience, to which himself, and four gentlemen, who were permitted to follow him, were conducted by two capigées, who led them on each hand, in a rude and hasty manner. By these they were thus carried from the outward gallery into a square paved court, and from thence into a railed entry, that landed them immediately in a ground room, which was the presence chamber of the Grand Signior. It was a small room, of a square figure, lined on the sides and floor with crimson silk, and that embellished with an high and thick embroidery of golden branches. In one corner was erected an high sophá about two yards square, adorned with four rich cushions, and an answerable minderá, all of which were in a manner intirely covered with embroidery of pearl. On this sat the Grand Signior, regarding the ambassador in an oblique posture, and sinking so deep in the minderá, that his thighs and legs were not to be distinguished. The other ornaments of the room were two windows, each furnished with two cushions, answerable to those of the sophá; and more remarkable than all the rest, a royal chimney cloth, embroidered like the covering of the floor and walls, but enriched beyond these with various large jewels set in the corners of the work, such as pearls, diamonds, rubies, emeralds and the like. The ambassador stood about three yards distance from the Grand Signior, where he delivered himself to Mauro Cordato in Italian, and he interpreted his credentials immediately to the Sultan. But his Majesty’s letter being handed to Mauro Cordato by his Excellency, it was by him delivered to the nishangée, by him to Abdollá pashá, and by him to the vizír, who laid it before the Grand Signior’s feet. Upon this the Sultan directed himself to the vizír in these words: “We esteem the King of England as our freind. On our part, all due regard shall be had to the sacred capitulations made with him; and accordingly be it your care to see them maintained.” This said, the ambassador was dismissed the audience room, with the four gentlemen, who only were permitted to attend the ceremony. Upon which all the English immediately mounted at the outward gate of the seraglio, and there stood in rank and order to see the janisaries dismissed; which is done in a regular but hasty manner, and seems to resemble the decursio of the Roman army. After this the several Ministers of the diván, begining with the least, and ending with the vizír, made a pompous procession on horses of state, adorned with broad guilded bridles, and housing of the French fashion, wrought with nothing but entire thread of gold. After these followed his Excellency on an horse and furniture of the same quality, and so returned with the attendance of several chiaushes, and all those of the English nation, to his own palace.
The habit of the several ministers of the diván is exactly of the same form with the caftans, which they ordinarily present; but the matter is either silk, or fine grogran, fur’d with sable. Their turbant is that called the mugevezée; but that of the Grand Signior is the same with the common agás, only distinguished by three small, but fine and curious black feathers, with waves of ash colour, being the outmost feathers on the wing of the arguron, a rare Muscovian bird. The present made by the ambassador to the Grand Signior consisted of sixty pieces of different materials, as cloth, silk, sattin, velvet, and the like, all of them at the charge of the company.
My Lord Paget had this day his audience of leave of the grand vizír, where, besides the ordinary forms and ceremonies of coffee, sherbet, incense, and caftans, the letters of the vizír and Sultan were brought in by the reis effendi; and being by him reverently kissed and delivered to the vizír, were by the vizír kissed in the same manner, and delivered to the ambassador, by whom they were kissed again, and committed to Mr. Paget, who bore them respectfully on his two hands during the whole procession to his Excellency’s palace. The Sultan’s letter was enclosed in a cover of cloth of gold, about a foot broad, and a yard long, being wrote on fine Persian paper made of silk.
His Excellency had audience of leave of the mufti, a reverend person about seventy years of age, somewhat corpulent, of an insolent and proud aspect, well learned in the Turkish law and polity, and formerly hogia to the present Sultan. He is extremely covetous, and at the same time prodigiously rich, having hoarded, as it is said, one great part of the current gold of the empire, and likewise purchased many vast and extensive possessions about Erzerum and Trebisond, which is his native countrey.
His Excellency had audience of leave of the caimekám, a courteous, affable, and obliging person, of no great estate or character, except that his wife is sister to the Sultan. The same day, being Friday, I saw the Grand Signior riding from his palace to the mosque, where he paid his public devotion. He was preceded by several chiaushes, then by six led horses, and then by several solácks, habited in short vests, and adorned with high caps of gilt silver. On each side of his horse walked three churbegées, bearing on their heads so many beautiful white ostrich feathers; and behind him followed on stately horses his selictár agá, and kyslér agá. He is of a low stature, but broad and corpulent; has a short neck, a large squat yellow fleshy face, a flat nose, a low forehead, with cheeks remarkably long and squabby. In his coins he stiles himself, The mighty Sultan of the earth and sea, a Sultan son of a Sultan, Sultan Mustafá Han, son of emperor Mahomet.
His Excellency had audience of leave of the nakéib effendi, who is the son of the mufti, and by patent the designed successor of his father. He is about thirty years of age, of good parts and behaviour, naturally arrogant, but made shew on this occasion of an affected courtesy.
I this day saw the heads of five robbers brought from Natolia, and laid at the gate of the seraglio, where by custom they are to remain three suns. They are only the skins of so many criminals heads stuffed with straw.
His Excellency, my Lord Paget, now drawing near to his departure was this day invited to the grand vizír’s, where among many singular tokens of that esteem, which this court truely bears to his person and character, he received a splendid feast, together with the present of a sable vest to the value of two purses; as also a noble horse, and sumptuous furniture, computed at three more.
I saw the extravagant devotion of an enthusiastic sect of Turks which they publicly acted in the manner following. After their ordinary midday namáz at a little mosque of this city, they repaired to an adjoining chapel, where were seated many Turks of different quality, who came thither as spectators only, and to entertain their curiosity. These several devotées, who were to act their part, were decently ranked in circular seats, till the prior of their order entered, on which they all rose to reverence him. He immediately seated himself in the corner of the room, and with the whole fraternity struck up a religious hymn, which they carried on in a decent, solemn, and harmonious manner. This done, they rose upon their feet, to the number of about sixty persons, and form’d themselves into a close ring, each one holding his hands on the breast and neck of his foreman. In this posture they advanced round, repeating with a deep and forcible voice, Hú hú; at the same time stamping violently on the ground, and with great force throwing their heads towards the center of the ring. Soon after two step’d within the circle, and turn’d swiftly upon their heel; upon which the whole company quickened their motion, and grew into a warmth and fury, which is rather to be admired, than expressed in words. For two hours and an half they acted a continual fury, sometimes huging one another in a cluster, at other times kneeling in a confused company, and then runing round in a circle without cessation[109], throwing about their hands, tossing their heads, and repeating in hidious cries, Hú héy, Alláh hulláh, Allá hú, or, Allá héy. As they grew hoarser and weaker, both their sound and action exactly resembled the barking and snarling of dogs[110]; till at length being covered with sweat, and worked up to the last pitch of extasy, they concluded with certain versicles, which they repeated from the mouth of the prior, and so dismissed us[111].
My Lord Paget paid his last visit this morning to the vizír kayá, who presented him with a gentile horse and furniture. In the afternoon he likewise took his last leave of the reis effendi, who honoured him with the like present, and dismissed him with expressions, that witnessed the sincere and cordial respect he bore him. I shall conclude this narrative with observing only, that about Adrianople grows an excellent red wine, which I take to be that mentioned by Hesiod in his Oper et Dies, L. ii. ℣. 107, where he says: Πετραίη τε σκίη, καὶ Βίβλινος οἶνος.