The others were in the house of General Rabutin, upon the base of two pillars, as I have here given them.
The same gentleman shewed me also the cathedral church of this place, entertained me with the music of the organ, and presented me with a book called Breviculus de nationibus Transylvanicis. Another on the same subject was given me the day before by the rector scholae Cibiniensis, which place with the adjoining library I then visited. This night I likewise returned a visit to the reverend Isaacus Zabanius, primarius pastor Cibiniensis, et ecclesiae cathedralis decanus, by whom and his wife I was kindly entertained above three hours. He then gave me an Answer, which he had formerly compiled, to Campiani Rationes decem.
By six this morning his Excellency and retinue leaving Hermanstadt were attended by the General, and gentlemen above mentioned, beyond the adjoining river, after which they all took a cordial leave; especially lieutenant colonel Graven, to whom his Excellency presented a diamond ring. We now proceed in our way, at which time I received an obliging letter from Mr. Dunster, with an account of my successor’s arrival at Smyrna upon the seventeenth of April.
Hermanstadt is a fair city, consisting of well proportioned houses, regularly plaistered and covered with brick; and is incompassed with an intire brick wall, and that again with the water either of a mote, or river, which surrounds it. Over the gate, by which we entered, is the statue of Hermannus, the founder of the place. It is designed to be yet farther fortified by the Germans; for which end they are now marking out the place of a citadel, which they propose to build so strong and regular, as thereby to curb not only this city, but the whole province. It is intirely inhabited by Saxons, and consequently by professors of the Lutheran or Augustan confession. They have here three churches, of which the cathedral is large and well adorned. The General, and German garrison, which now consists of twelve hundred men, as likewise a few other papists, are fain to be contented with a private chapel. General Rabutin is a comely, courteous, and facetious gentleman, of severe discipline, and prudent management of the Imperial soldiery, which thro this whole province, to the number of about ten thousand men, is committed to his charge. He is of French extraction, and was forced to fly while young, on account of a duel, from his native country to the court of Vienna; where after long service he at length obtained favour of the Princess of Holstein then wife to Chancellor Sinsendorff; who after that minister’s death condescended to marry him, and so raised him to his present pitch of fortune. The civil government is in the hands of the Judex Cibiniensis, whose jurisdiction reaches not only over this city, but even the whole Saxon district. Next to him is the Consul Cibiniensis, whose government is confined within the city. And besides these there is a senate of about sixteen, and then a commonalty of about an hundred men. The place in Latin is called Cibinium, from the adjoining river Cibin.
Before eleven a clock we again take up our quarters at Visakna, that is, Saltzburg, so called from the salt mines; which I visited this afternoon, in company with the minister of the place, Joannes Nagy Borosnyai of the Helvetian confession. The salt is here dug, and cut into stones (as they call them) of a square figure, and about an hundred pound in weight. Being so prepared in the cavern, which at the bottom extends itself very wide in the manner of a dome, they are drawn up by cables, of which one winds round an adjoining machine drawn by four horses, and the other unwinds at the same time. The pit itself is square, lined within with planks, as far as the earthy soil reaches, and extending afterwards to the depth of about an hundred yards. These stones are afterwards laid up in magazines, to be transported on occasion by the Maros into the Danube, and thence vended into Turkey or Germany for the use of the Emperor, who is the sole proprietor of all the natural mines, with which this province abounds. The above mentioned minister here gave me some gemmae salis, as pellucid as ordinary crystal. He is a man well learned, and has traveled into many countries, particularly England. At the same place I likewise received a present of some specimina metallica, namely gold, cinnabar, antimony, and others; which were sent me by a gentleman, named Samuel Koloseri, the Emperor’s general inspector of the Transylvanian mines.
We depart hence for Tsanad and arrive there before twelve a clock; from whence his Excellency designing for Enyed by the way of Balasfalva, Mr. Montague, Mr. Gangain, and myself take this opportunity of steping out of the way to see Alba Julia, or Wissenburg. We therefore hire a post calash by five a clock in the afternoon, and it being distant three long Hungarian miles in dirty way, we scarce arrive there by twelve at night, having near the city crossed the Maurusius over a wooden bridge. In our way thither we saw a gang of Zingans, or gypses, common in this and the neighbouring provinces, as well as Turkey.
His Excellency continued his journey this day to Balasfalva; and in the morning we at Abba Julia wait on the governor, Count Banti, a worthy and courteous protestant nobleman, but for many years weakened and tormented with the colic. We were conducted to him thro the room, where the comitia totius Transylvaniae are now held; and where Count Seau, commissary for his Imperial Majesty, solicites the states for raising of subsidies, and proposes other orders to them from the court of Vienna. This done, we visit likewise Count Seau; who was so complaisant as to shew us the castle where he dwells, being a magnificent palace, and lately the residence of the princes of Transylvania. At the same time we viewed the large Calvinist church adjoining thereto, which is a lofty and stately fabric, but has suffered much from the Tartars, who defaced the fair monuments, and burnt the tower, in the year sixteen hundred and fifty eight. It is now fortified with a ditch and rampart, which is likewise usual all over Transylvania. The above mentioned monuments are of Joannes Corvinus, commonly called Huniades; of Queen Isabella, and her son Ladislaus; of Sigismund, and George Ragotzi, together with the famous Gabriel Bethlen. The same morning we paid a visit to the bishop of the reformed church in Transylvania, who resides here, and is likewise pastor of the place, by name Stephanus Vespreni. He is an old man, seems decayed in his parts, and is troubled with a palsy in his tongue. With him we saw the professor of the Schola Albensis, which in the year sixteen hundred seventy two was translated hither from Patak in Hungary. He is a learned, curious, and laborious man, teaches divinity, natural philosophy, the tongues, and mathematics; has traveled into England and other countries, and is a great admirer of the English; for which reason his study is full of our books, and he both writes, and speaks, and even teaches our language once a week to his scholars. His name is Kaposi Samuel, and was made S. Theologiae Doctor by a diploma from the Prince of Orange. These visits performed, we repair to Count Banti’s to diner, where we were honoured with a splendid feast; the governor keeping his chamber. There sat at table the Lady governess, who is of the family of Bethlen, with Countess Bethlen Samuel, Count Bethlen Nicolas chancellor of the states of Transylvania, Count Apór treasurer, Count Holler president of the states (the two last papists) together with Count Telchi, Joannes Sacks the Judex regius Cibiniensis, with Count Seau, and some others. After diner we spent some time with professor Kaposi, and at night supped with Count Seau.
His Excellency staid this whole day at Balasfalva; and we the morning at Alba Julia, which was antiently called Apulum[119], where we imployed ourselves in viewing some Roman sculptures, and copying the three following inscriptions.
At midday we dined with Count Seau, and by two a clock taking leave of the governor, we set forward in a calash for Enyed[122], two Hungarian miles distant from hence, where we arrived before seven, the road lying all the way near the banks of the Maurusius.
We take a calash this morning, and proceed about an hour from Enyed to meet his Excellency, at the place where he crossed the Maurusius by flat boats; which done, we wait on him back to Enyed, and there arrive about one a clock. After diner I visited the school and college of this place, which is reputed the most flourishing of those, that belong to the reformed Calvinist church in Transylvania. It has three professors, one of philosophy, Stephanus Kolosvari, who has traveled into England; another of divinity, Stephanus Engedi, a learned man, who gave me a popish book, concerning the Emperor’s treatment of the reformed churches in Hungary; and a third of the Greek tongue, logic, and history, Fr. Pariz-Papa, a physician, who presented me with some printed tracts of his own, and a manuscript Itinerary of Dr. Basire prebendary of Durham, left by him in Alba Julia, where he professed divinity during the late usurpation in England.
We proceed three Hungarian miles from Enyed to Therda, where we arrive about one a clock, and find it a dirty ill built town, but remarkable for its salt pits. It has two Calvinist churches, with one appropriated to the Unitarians. The town stands upon the Aranyas, antiently the Chrysolas, in which the Zingans find gold dust, principally after rain.
It being Whitsunday, his Excellency halted this day, and in his lodgings had divine service and a sermon. After diner we visit the salt pits, which altogether resemble those of Visakna, except that the salt seems somewhat clearer and stronger. Returning we find the following Roman inscription.
We proceed three Hungarian miles to Clausenburg, the Zeugma of the antients, by the Hungarians called Kolosvar, and in Latin Claudiopolis. Here Governor Banti met my Lord half a mile out of the town, and treated him at diner; after which taking leave, he presented him with a set of six fine coach horses. It is a fair city with a broad and straight street; but still retains on the houses and churches the marks of a dreadful fire, which about five years since almost entirely consumed it. It is seated upon the first branch of the river Samos, and is entirely surrounded with an antient thick wall, on the inside of which I was shewn the two following inscriptions, the latter whereof has the characters beautifully cut.
The Unitarians, who are one of the sects received in Transylvania, have here established their principal seat. I conversed with one of them, Stephanus Stanizlo, professor of philosophy, with whom I visited their plebanus, or chief pastor, and saw their church and college. I likewise visited the Calvinist pastor, as also their church and college, where I saw M. B. Nemethi their professor of philosophy, Sam. Nemethi the divinity professor being absent. In several public places of the city I observed antient dates of time, particularly over one of the gates, where the year was marked, with these characters, that is 1477; and over the Unitarian college thus, , which is 1476[125]. Here Count Bethlen’s commission ending, his Excellency is provided for by Baron Vesselini.
We stay this day at Clausenburg. The next we proceed two Hungarian miles to Erdicurestúr, where I lodge in a poor Valach house. And the day following we make the like progress thro woods and narrow vales to Balashaza, upon the river Almasch.
Two more Hungarian miles thro the like way bring us to Zilak, a reformed Calvinist village, where I visited the chief pastor, Stephanus Foris Debreezeni. Within half an hour of this place we passed certain mountains very woody, but not exceeding high, which part Transylvania from Hungary; after which we now enter into those parts of Hungary, which lately gave part of his title to the prince of Transylvania.
Passing two Hungarian miles thro a country more open and well improved, we arrive at Somlyo; in which there is an old palace, once a seat of residence for the kings of Hungary. Here the guards and commissary is again changed, Franciscus Trantzeni, an Hungarian gentleman, now taking that charge. As we continued in this town the following day, I had an opportunity of conversing with the minister, whose name is Zovány.
We set forward three Hungarian miles to Margarita, and in the way cross the Krasna, near which are the limits that terminate the parts of Hungary. The soil is here luxuriantly rich, well varied with pasture and intervening woods, and everywhere adorned with damask roses, growing wild on short shrubs. Part of my time was here employed in discoursing with the minister, Johannes Banki. But having now passed thro Transylvania, as well as the parts of Hungary subject to the same government, it is here proper to recollect some general observations relating to this province.
Transylvania, which for many years had been tributary to the Turks, and consequently under the protection of that empire, which still allowed them the choice and government of their own princes, was in the year 1687, under the conduct of the Duke of Lorrain, subjected to the arms of the Emperor; and thereupon by capitulation they resigned themselves to the Germans, under whom they have since continued, tho as yet the Emperor has assumed no distinct title from thence. He has ordinarily in garrison here about twelve regiments, which since the peace of Carlowítz serve rather to curb the inhabitants, than to awe the neighbouring Turk. To this end they are now preparing a strong citadel in Hermanstadt, and designing others in proper places, on pretence of charges due to these forts and the standing militia. The Emperor exacts yearly severe taxes, of which they generally complain, as being four times more than was exacted by the Turk. For whereas they then paid the yearly tribute and exaction of about two hundred thousand floreni Rhenenses, there is this year particularly demanded from them, in the present assembly of the government at Alba Julia, the sum of one million forty thousand six hundred, which is charged for the following particulars. The
| Quantum militare, | 750,000. |
| Ad fortalitia, | 100,000. |
| Debitum principis Duca[126], | 65,600. |
| Bonificationes superoneratis, | 60,000. |
| Ad salarium camellariae, | 15,000. |
| Inevitabiles extraordinariae expensae | 50,000. |
These subsidies are demanded at the assembly in the Emperor’s name, by his commissary, Count Seau; and the care of levying and raising it is incumbent on the governor, the chancellor, the treasurers, the assessores tabulae regiae, with other officers and members of the assembly. Thus the civil government of the province is committed to the Transylvanian nobility, distinguished by the officers abovementioned; but the military government is, in the hands of General Rabutin, who holds the province to a rigid and exact obedience.
Transylvania is in the hands of three distinct people. First the Szekeli, which are otherwise corruptly wrote Sciculi, Siculi, or Scytuli[127]. The second are the Saxones. And the third are the Hungari. The first and third of these speak the same Hungarian language, and are Hunns of the same original, only settled in this country at different times. The Saxons speak intirely the German Saxon language, from which nation they are a colony, and settled here under Geysa the second King of Hungary.
They have each of them their distinct laws, customs, and privileges, and are severally divided after this manner. First the Szekeli into seven szeks, namely: Meros-szék, Udvarhel-szék, Harom-szék, Kesdi Orba Sepsi-szék, Csik-szék, Gyorgy-szék, and Arangus-szék. Over each of these seats preside so many captains; and being a warlike robust people, still retaining the ferity of the Scythians, of which the whole body of the Hunni was at first a colony, they have been always exempted from taxes and duties to the government, except only the service of war upon occasion under their respective captains. But of late the Emperor has persuaded them to submit to the like taxes and duties, with all other his Transylvanian subjects. On account of their not holding their lands of the government, there is a peculiar custom obtaining among them, that in defect of heirs their estate escheats not to the government, but to the next neighbour.
The Saxons have in like manner their seven seats alloted from their first settlement, namely: Szerdaky-szék, Szeben-szék, Brassoy-szék, Medyes-szék, Segyvar-szék, Bestereze-szék, and Erdovidek-szék. Each of these seats have their capital city, called Regia et libera civitas. Over this city, and the seat or district belonging to it, presides a judex regius, called in their language, konings rickter. But the authority and prerogative of the Judex Cibiniensis, that is of Hermanstadt, extends itself over the several Saxon seats; except that he of Brassow or Cronstadt pretends in many cases an exemption, which has been allowed, because of its too great distance from the tribunal of Szeben, or Hermanstadt. Besides the authority of this judge, there is a subordinate government in each city by a senate, which ordinarily consists of about sixteen, and a centumvirate or commonalty, tho it seldom contains a complete hundred. Each in their several districts have the jus gladii, and all other prerogatives of an intire jurisdiction.
The third and richer part of Transylvania, possessed by the Hungarians, is supposed and called the seat of the only Transylvanian nobility; and accordingly it is divided into seven comitatus, or residences, of its several courts, namely: The comitatus Huniadensis, Albensis, Thordensis, Claudiopolitanus, Interior et Exterior Zolnokiensis, Doboczensis, and Krasnaiensis. Now each of these counties has four comites, of which two are called supremi, and two inferiores; in whose hands, together with other nobles under them, remain the whole jurisdiction and possession of their respective counties; the other inhabitants being not only tenants, but subjects, as they call them, and in some manner slaves to their respective nobles, to whom they ordinarily owe the work of three, and sometimes of more days in the week.
Besides these, the Valachi are every where in great numbers intermixted among the Transylvanian nations, but have no jurisdiction or dominion of their own; and therefore they remain as nourishers of cattle, and in that service slaves and subjects to the rest. And not only Valachs[128], but likewise (tho in lesser numbers) there are found up and down in Transylvania, Rascians, Muscovites, Armenians, Jews, and others.
Those called the received religions in Transylvania, that is, those who above the space of an age have obtained the protection of their princes under oath, and of the Emperor under articles upon their late subjection, are four; the Roman Catholic; the Lutheran; the Calvinist, which is here called peculiarly the Reformed; and the Unitarian. The first of these is more frequent in Szekulia, but yet not so prevalent as to possess even a tenth part of all Transylvania. The second, or Lutheran, is common to all the Saxon nation in this province. The third flourishes in Szekulia, and the comitatus Hungarici. The fourth prevails here and there likewise in the same countries, but those who profess it are not so numerous in either. However they have a flourishing college at Clausenberg, together with a large church; tho neither for beauty, nor the number of its communicants, equal to that of the Calvinist confession. These several religions are well known, and distinguished by their faith and principles, all over Europe. I shall therefore only say this concerning the discipline of the three last, that their several parishes collected into distinct dioceses are subject to their respective seniors; and these seniors, in their order, are likewise subject to a provincial bishop, who has his court, in which he judges matrimonial and other spiritual causes, and has also the sole power of ordaining, as likewise of calling and presiding over their yearly synod. And to this synod there is adjoined a consistory, which is in the nature of an upper house, and a council to the bishop.
The Lutheran churches are in many places splendid, adorned with organs and pictures, and little differing from the form of our larger churches, except that the altar is immoveable, and built of stone, and sometimes too profusely painted. Their worship consists of forms of prayers, then hymns, after these lessons and sermons, and lastly prayers and concluding hymns. The worship of the Unitarians exactly corresponds with that of the Calvinists. These latter have sermons twice a week, besides Sundays, as also morning and evening service throughout the week, at which appear large and devout congregations in many places. Their service is a metre psalm, a prayer from the pulpit, and then concludes with another psalm. They have a form of prayer, and an injunction of their bishop to make use of no other; but the custom of most ministers has introduced the use of their own premeditated devotions, and accordingly the people begin to disesteem those, who confine themselves to the form. The Lutherans, Calvinists, and Unitarians live peaceably with one another; but are not admitted to each others communion of Christ’s body, without a special declaration of conformity. The Lutherans in some places consecrate a wafer, and in other places leaven bread. They likewise have auricular confession, but abuse it not, as the Papists. Their main difference from the Calvinists consists in their avowed corporeal ubiquitarian presence. Among other known tenets of the Unitarians, by which they take away the force of the Christian sacraments, tho they generally use infant baptism not to give scandal to the Calvinists, yet they rather wish to delay it till the age of twelve years or upwards, and often practice accordingly.
These three protestant religions remain as yet in the undisturbed profession of their faith. But upon several late encroachments of the Jesuits, and other priests, in confidence of the popish government, to which they are subject; upon the withdrawing of the tithes usually paid to the protestant ministers from the salt mines, and now given to popish monks; and lastly upon the care, which is taken by the court of Vienna, to supply all offices of the province with papist ministers: upon these several accounts, I say, the whole reformed people of Transylvania, especially the Calvinists, begin to be under great apprehensions, and from the governor to the meanest gentleman, earnestly embraced this occasion of recommending their cause to the good services of his Excellency at the Imperial court; after which they implored the prayers and good wishes of the church of England, and in many places took a solemn melancholy leave of us, as if they were just entering upon a martyrdom.
The religion of the Valachs, Muscovites, Armenians, Rascians, and others, is that of their respective nations in their proper seats and countries. And it may be farther noted in relation to the religion of Transylvania, that as in Hungary, so here likewise, the Jesuits, who were before excluded by a positive article, have now an express liberty of entering and setling in this province. Nor can I omit to remark the great and blameable facility both of the Calvinists, and Lutherans, in matters of divorce.
After the religion of Transylvania, the natural soil of the country falls under consideration; which is luxuriantly rich, well cultivated, full of inhabitants, and conveniently distinguished with a sufficient quantity of wood, hills, and water. The surface of the earth is almost every where black, without the least stone to be observed in many places; and in several tracts so fertile, as not to require the advantage of dung, except only some parts of Siculia where it is used. Besides all kinds of grain, which grow on the surface of the earth, within it abounds with veins of metals, minerals, and fossils of all sorts, particularly of gold; so that, as I was informed by the Emperor’s inspector of his mines, there was last year dug here to the value of twenty five thousand zechins. But among other fossils the native cinnabar is most rare, and the quicksilver which is here found to perfection. Salt is dug in several places, in the manner described above[129]; by which a large revenue accrues to the Emperor, to whom the property of all mines belongs. But in the mean time the people suffer in the price of this commodity; for since their late subjection to the Emperor, a stone of salt weighing about an hundred pounds can scarce be bought for three florins, whereas heretofore three stones of salt were sold for one florin. The money current in Transylvania is that of the Emperor, the quarts of Poland, with some other coins. The reports related by some, who were eye witnesses, concerning diverse particles of gold found in the products of their vineyards, both here and about the celebrated mountain of Tokái, are very remarkable; of which I shall only mention these following. A piece of gold is said to have grown to a vine, instead of the green tendrel, by which it takes hold of the adjoining trees, or other substance that supports it. Pure gold was found in a grape, instead of its ordinary natural stone. Small gold drops were observed to adhere to the skin of a grape. And even an intire grape had been seen to consist of a perfect coat of gold.
As to the temper and disposition of the inhabitants, they appear cordial and hospitable, drink almost continually, and eat plentifully, are unpolite but importunate in their civility, and even the vulgar sort usually speak Latin; they are of a robust constitution, and principally the Siculians, who have likewise a fierce and stately mein. Their habit is a short waistcoat made very close to the body[130], and sleeves with flaps to them, that come over the backs of their hands. Their breeches are likewise close to their thighs, and from thence continued down in the form of a stocking to their feet. But on their legs they commonly wear yellow or red boots, to which are constantly fixed spurs, often three inches long. Over their waistcoat, when they go abroad, they throw a loose but short fur vest, which is either embroidered, or adorned with silver loops, on each side before. The habit of the women, who for the most part are beautiful and courteous, is a close narrow bodice, and from thence petticoats, as usual with us in England; but over their arms they wear loose linen sleeves, resembling those of a bishop’s rochet. Their head dress is low, and among those of the better sort richly adorned with pretious stones; much resembling some old English pictures, particularly those of Henry the eighth’s wives. They likewise wear over their shoulders the same sort of fur vest, as the men; but the inferior sort are usually drest, when abroad, in a long and loose black mantle, reaching from their shoulders down to the ground, and all round gathered into deep and numberless folds, not unlike the gowns worn by the islanders in the Archipelago. Maids likewise wear a black ring of velvet on their head, which they call a crown, and resembles the figure of an hat without brims. With regard to matrons, their law formerly admitted no proof of adultery, unless under the eye witness of twenty four persons at least; which in a virtuous age was an egregious testimony to the chastity of their women, but in a vitious one must needs prove too great an encouragment to that heinous sin. The Hungarians and Siculians have an odd fashion of shaving their head round the lower part, and leaving the hair at the top, which afterwards they tie into a knot, and let it hang over one or other of their temples. This custom they might possibly have received of old from the Sicambrians (who once built the city Sicambria, and settled a colony there) since they were antiently famed for the like manner of knotting of their hair[131]. We may further observe a certain infelicity of Transylvania, as well as the adjoining parts of Hungary, in persuading themselves at least, that they are infested with witchcraft. For women of all ages are yearly executed for that crime, and this commonly upon evidence of their having threatned mischief to their neighbours, their children, goods, cattle, or other effects, and some correspondent effect, which has seemed afterwards to happen. In the Saxon seats of Transylvania they often put them to that vulgar trial of water; and I have heard it avowed by those, who have declared themselves to have been eye witnesses, that some suspected persons could never sink below the surface of the water, when others immediately subsided to the bottom[132]. And in such cases the poor afflicted, tortured, and now perhaps distracted person, confesses the indictment, and then without the least repreive is committed to the faggot. But as ignorant places have been always reputed most subject to witchcraft, this very well suits the state of Transylvania; where every petty district is the seat of its own judicature, and the power of life and death is consequently lodged in illiterate and superstitious persons.
But it is now time to proceed on our journey, in which one Hungarian mile and a half carried us to Szekhelyhíd, where his Excellency lodged in the house of a popish prelate, by name Joannes Smitz, of the order of the Praemonstratenses, a gentile and agreable person. In his parlour, where he had an altar and crucifix, I observed over the former a profane picture of the Holy Trinity, representing an Old Man, with his Son sitting betwixt his legs, and at the son’s feet the Holy Ghost in the shape of a dove.
Three Hungarian miles and a half farther brought us this day to Debrecyn, thro a rich soil, not destitute of wood, nor water; the latter of which is plentifully found in this countrey, as also in Transylvania and Valachia, by reason of its frequent and extended lakes; tho fountains are scarce any where to be observed. This city has lately obtained the privilege of being libera et regia from the Emperor, in consideration of its late grievous oppressions between the Turkish and German forces; since which, like other free cities, it is governed by its own judge, senate, and commonalty. It is large and populous, and sets up for the bulwark of the reformed church in Hungary; which character it maintains by its large and well disciplined college of almost two hundred students, under the care of two eminent professors; one of divinity, named Johannes Koes, who is likewise bishop or superintendent of the province; and the other of philosophy, whose name is Michael Vaári. As this college is kept in good repair, so the students are allowed their constant diet, and the professors receive their salary, at the sole charge of the city. There are likewise two spatious churches, served by three able and learned pastors, Thomas Veresedgyhazi, Michael Rapoti, and Stephanus Patai. The city is likewise furnished at the public charge with a capacious and well stored dispensary.
Before his Excellency approached this place, he was complimented by several messengers from the mayor, who commands the militia here, then by the judge, senators, and others; and at length by the bishop, professors, pastors, and scholars. With this retinue his Excellency entered the city, which was orderly lined with arms as far as his lodgings. These were appointed for him in the house of one Stephanus Dobozi, a rich, generous, and learned gentleman; who among other public designs is now undertaking to print a new version of the Hungarian Bible, to be distributed among the reformed Christians of that kingdom.
This being Corpus Christi day, his Excellency continued at Debrecyn; at which time I took the opportunity of visiting the bishop, professors, and pastors of the town, the first of whom presented me with an handkerchief of the Hungarian fashion. I was introduced to them by one Paul Gyongyóssi, who met us in this place from a neighbouring cure. He had lately traveled into England, and resided sometime in Glocester Hall, Oxford, where he was known to my brother of dear memory. But in his return home thro Vienna his books were seized, to the value of five hundred florins, by Cardinal Colonicza, archbishop of Strigonium; on which account he now solicited the favour and interest of his Excellency. He presented me with the Canones Ecclesiae Reformatae Hungariae.
This morning the judge and magistrates of Debrecyn presented his Excellency with a gentile sword, and two small vessels of the best Tokái wine. And after traveling one Hungarian mile and a half thro a dead extended plain, void of tree or shrub, we came to Ujvaros. Here I first took notice of the Hungarian sheep, which are distinguished from most others by their horns, which are long, straight, and twisted; also by their wool, which is exceeding coarse.
Three Hungarian miles thro the same level and naked plain brought us this day to Csege, which is a pass over the Tibiscus. In our way hither we had in view on the right hand, at the distance of about five miles, the celebrated mountain of Tokái, in compass about ten Hungarian miles, and renowned for its generous wines. At the aforesaid Csege we ferry over the Tibiscus in two large flat bottomed boats, thence we travel for some time with the river on our right hand, and then strike into the plain to Csat, a large village about one Hungarian mile from Csege, where we fix our quarters.
His Excellency stayed this day at Csat, at which time I had some conversation with the minister, Stephanus Szirák, formerly a traveler in England. Here I took notice of the fair, white, and stately cattle of Hungary; and walked in the feilds, to enjoy a more distinct prospect of the mountain Tokái.
We proceed one Hungarian mile and a half thro the same plain to Proszlo, which is situated on a large and diffused lake, supplied by the Tibiscus, into which it empties itself. In our way hither, we left at a near distance on our right hand the city Agria, and the mountains denominated from thence.
We move one Hungarian mile and a half forward in the same plain, and at the same distance from the mountains of Agria, to Alány. Before diner his Excellency with a retinue went an English mile from hence, in order to visit a new country house and garden belonging to the worthy General Glychensberg; who by donation from the Emperor possesses great part of this village, as likewise of that where we lodged last night. I had here an occasion to observe the Hungarian houses under ground, having unawares like to have dropt into a chimney. We took notice likewise of a plica Polonica in the hair of his Excellency’s landlord; who told us, that it being once cut off by his wife, he became perfectly blind for three months, and did not recover his sight, till the plica was grown out and formed again. The same thing is common to most horses in this country.
From Alány we go on this day two Hungarian miles to Arokszalles, thro the same plain, the soil of which is as black as coal, and in most places overrun with weeds and marshes for want of tillage. In the midway we cross the small river Both, by which is a posthouse of the same name. Arokszalles is a popish village, the first of that sort we had seen in Hungary. It belongs to the Prince of Newburg, Grand Master of the Teutonic order, who has bought lately of the Emperor a large compass of ground on both sides the Tibiscus for a million of florins. From our quarters we have in view to the right of our road, at the foot of a pleasant tract of mountains, the city Gyongyossi, lately taken from the Protestants (as they told us at Debrecyn) by the injuries of the Jesuits and other Romanists.
We continue our journey one Hungarian mile to Hatwan, thro the same plain, along the foss of an antient Roman camp. The hills of Gyongyóssi are still at a near distance on our right hand, in which four Hungarian miles from Arokszalles is the famous gold mine of Kremnytz, with others of silver, iron, and other minerals, in the same neighbourhood. Hatwan was lately a walled city, and is now inhabited by Romanists, being the property of the Prince of Solmes, grand master to the King of the Romans. The Emperor constantly employs five hundred labourers in the mines of Kremnytz, tho of late years they are said to fail. At Hatwan, as in all Hungary, I observed the method of burying their corn in holes under ground, as Hirtius remarks of the Africans[133].
At Hatwan we immediately cross the small river Zagywa, and thence proceed one Hungarian mile and half thro a pleasant variety of woods and pastures, valleys and hills, to Kerepes; where at a neat German house his Excellency staid to breakfast, and then went forward the same length of way thro a naked, tho not so level a plain, to Pest. At his entry here he is saluted by the canon from the opposite castle of Buda, and lodged at the Fountain inne. Pest is now a small but compact city, intirely built out of the ruins, to which it was reduced by the two late sieges of Buda. Its antient wall, with the battlements and bastions, is still intire, and incloses it in the figure of an half moon, terminating on the banks of the Danube, which completes the remaining circuit of the city. There are still extant three or four minarées of Turkish mosques, now devoted to Christian use. But what gives just offence both to Turks and Christians is a new pillar, erected in the market place, and bearing on its top a large stone sculpture of the Trinity; a figure as common, as it is scandalous, in Germany.
This day his Excellency remained here, which gave Mr. Paget and myself an opportunity of passing over to Buda on a flying bridge, which is maintained by the city Pest. The famous city of Buda is the capital of Hungary, and was the seat of its Kings till the year fifteen hundred twenty nine, when by treachery it fell into the hands of Solymán the Great; since which it was several times attempted by the Christian arms, but never successfully, till the year sixteen hundred sixty eight. And it yet remains in the same condition, in which that terrible siege had left it, with regard to its fortifications; but the private houses, especially those of the Rascian and Water Town, are again handsomely rebuilt. That, which is called the Upper Town, is likewise begining to be reinhabited, but not equally with the other two. The situation of the whole city lies in the following manner. From the banks of the Danube, which here runs N. W. and S. E. there arises a steep and oblong hill, the length of about half a mile, and the hight of about two hundred paces, on which stands, what is called the Upper Town. This on the N. W. end has that famous castle, which was the palace of the Hungarian Kings; and from thence the walls and other fortifications are continued round the town. On both ends of the hill are two small valleys, each of which has a large suburb; that on the N. W. end called the Rascian, and that on the S. E the Water Town. The latter of these is larger, and much better built; and extends itself not only in the valley above mentioned, but likewise betwixt the Danube and a great part of the hill, on which the wall and Upper Town is built. Just beyond the Rascian Town is a steep and sharp rocky hill, which in case of a siege must needs annoy the castle; and along the backside of the city wall is extended, at a nearer distance, another rising ground, which must likewise gall that side of the fortification. These therefore the Imperialists must possess with proper forts, whenever they undertake to repair the wall and castle of Buda; the present remains of which were shewn us this morning by the lieutenant of the ordnance, the most remarkable whereof were these which follow. The hall of the royal palace, in which the carved windows, chimney pieces, and other decorations, shewed the work of an excellent hand; and were embelished, among other devises, with the arms of Matthias Corvinus. The several canons, mortar pieces, bombs, and other artillery, which make the present ammunition of the castle. The two breaches, one entered by the Bavarians, and the other by the Imperialists, when they took the place. The wooden gate, hewn at the bottom by the Imperialists, which action gave the last rout to the Turks. The stone arched chamber, which they maintained to the last; tho the Bavarians had been many days lodged in the next adjoining apartment, and nothing but a single wall remained betwixt the two enemies. The well and capacious cistern, sufficient to afford water for that numerous Turkish garrison, which at first consisted of twenty four thousand men. What else occurs observable in this place, is first the prospect, which we took from the Water Town of old Buda, or Sicambria of the Romans, about an English mile from hence, up the stream of the river. And secondly, the famous sulphureous baths, exactly opposite to the city Pest, which are supplied by a plentiful hot fountain, that runs from the steep rocky hill before mentioned in the neighbourhood of the Rascian Town.
At midday we were invited to diner by the administrator, or chief civil magistrate of the place. By his office he is president of the camera Budensis, which consists of twelve officers, and enjoys great revenues, as well as an entire jurisdiction for many miles round the city. His Imperial Majesty has about fourteen hundred men in Garrison at Buda and Pest, under General Pefferhoft, who was now gone to demolish the fortifications of Erla; it being the Emperor’s design to divest this country of all its lesser forts, which at this juncture might be a refuge to any rebellious subjects. The whole country of Hungary to this place is a black and rich soil, without one stone to be observed, except in towns; and abounds with lakes. The wine of Buda exactly resembles that of Bourdeaux, and for these two last years, by an agent of the Earl of Nottingham, has began to be imported into England, by the way of Breslaw.
Early this morning we depart from Buda, when his Excellency was again saluted by the guns of the castle. Three Hungarian miles thro a rich, woody, and well watered country bring us to Biéske; a village where the Protestant are most numerous, but were nevertheless deprived of the parish church last year by the Romanists.
Three more Hungarian miles carry us this day to Koes, thro a continued wood, wherein are observable many curious trees, herbs, and flowers, particularly the fraxinella; to say nothing of the damask roses, hyacinths, barbaréae, lilia convallium, and some others, obvious in our whole road thro Hungary.
From Koes, where his Excellency lodged the last night, in an house of Count Estzerhazi, Palatin of Hungary, it is one Hungarian mile to Igmand, at which we arrive by eight a clock this morning. And one mile from thence toward the right hand we stop to see the city and fort of Komora. In a post calash we arrive on the banks of the Danube by ten a clock, and passing over in a boat enter the city, which is seated on the point of the island Schut, where it is washed on one side by the Danube itself; and on the other by that branch of it, which takes the name of Wag, from that river falling into it not far above the city Komora. The extreme point of this island is possessed by the castle and fort, consisting of four bastions, and an angle at the farther end, which represents the figure of a tortoise. Before the gate and drawbridge there is a place of arms, and before that another strait fortification with two bastions and an half moon, added by the present Emperor. This was the last bulwark against the Turks, before the success of the last war, and is called the Virgin Fort, in token of its having never been taken by the enemy. To perpetuate the memory of this, the statue of a virgin is erected in one angle of that bastion, which is on the left hand at the entrance of the place. After this view of the castle we content ourselves with a slighter view of the town, which appears neat and compact; and by two a clock return to his Excellency’s quarters at Igmand, the whole way lying over a green, naked, and level plain. In the castle of Komora I found the three following inscriptions, two of them in Latin, and the third in Greek, which are cut upon stone coffins.