I. EMIGRANT’S ITINERARY,

Showing the distances between camping-places, the several mail-stations where mules are changed, the hours of travel, the character of the roads, and the facilities for obtaining water, wood, and grass on the route along the southern bank of the Platte River, from St. Joseph, Mo., viâ Great Salt Lake City, to Carson Valley. From a Diary kept between the 7th of August and the 19th of October, 1860.

No. of Mail.		Miles.	Start.	Arrival.	Date.
1.	Leave St. Joseph, Missouri, in N. lat. 39° 40′, and W. long. 94° 50′. Cross Missouri River by steam ferry. Five miles of bottom land, bend in river and settlements. Over rolling prairie 2000 feet above sea level. After 6 miles, Troy, capital of Doniphan Co., Kansas Territory, about a dozen shanties. Dine and change mules at Cold Spring—good water and grass.	20-24	A.M. 9 30	P.M. 3	Aug. 7
	Road from Fort Leavenworth (N. lat. 39° 21′ 14″, and W. long. 94° 44′) falls in at Cold Spring, distant 15 miles.
	From St. Jo to Cold Spring there are two routes, one lying north of the other, the former 20, the latter 24 miles in length.
2.	After 10 miles, Valley Home, a whitewashed shanty. At Small Branch on Wolf River, 12 miles from Cold Spring, is a fiumara on the north of the road, with water, wood, and grass. Here the road from Fort Atchinson falls in. Kennekuk Station, 44 miles from St. Joseph. Sup and change mules.	22-23	P.M. 4	P.M. 8	Aug. 7
3.	Two miles beyond Kennekuk is the first of the three Grasshopper Creeks, flowing after rain to the Kansas River. Road rough and stony; water, wood, and grass. Four miles beyond the First Grasshopper is Whitehead, a young settlement on Big Grasshopper; water in pools, wood, and grass. Five and a half miles beyond is Walnut Creek, in Kickapoo Co.: pass over corduroy bridge; roadside dotted with shanties. Thence to Locknan’s, or Big Muddy Station.	25	P.M. 9	A.M. 1	Aug. 7, 8
4.	Seventeen miles beyond Walnut Creek, the Third Grasshopper, also falling into the Kansas River. Good camping-ground. Ten miles beyond lies Richland, deserted site. Thence to Seneca, capital of Nemehaw Co. A few shanties on the N. bank of Big Nemehaw Creek, a tributary of the Missouri River, which affords water, wood, and grass.	18	A.M. 3	A.M. 6	Aug. 8
5.	Cross Wildcat Creek and other nullahs. Seven miles beyond Seneca lies Ash Point, a few wooden huts, thence to “Uncle John’s Grocery,” where liquor and stores are procurable. Eleven miles from Big Nemehaw, water, wood, and grass are found at certain seasons near the head of a ravine. Thence to Vermilion Creek, which heads to the N.E., and enters the Big Blue 20 miles above its mouth. The ford is miry after rain, and the banks are thickly wooded. Water is found in wells 40-43 feet deep. Guittard’s Station.	20	A.M. 8	NOON. 12	Aug. 8
6.	Fourteen miles from Guittard’s, Marysville, capital of Washington Co., affords supplies and a blacksmith. Then ford the Big Blue, tributary to Kansas River, clear and swift stream. Twelve miles W. of Marysville is the frontier line between Kansas and Nebraska. Thence to Cotton-wood Creek, fields in hollow near the stream.	25	P.M. 1	P.M. 6	Aug. 8
7.	Store at the crossing very dirty and disorderly. Good water in spring 400 yards N. of the road; wood and grass abundant. Seventeen and a half miles from the Big Blue is Walnut Creek, where emigrants encamp. Thence to West Turkey or Rock Creek in Nebraska Territory, a branch of the Big Blue: its approximate altitude is 1485 feet.	26	P.M. 6	P.M. 11	Aug. 8
8.	After 19 miles of rough road and musquetoes, cross Little Sandy, 5 miles E. of Big Sandy; water and trees plentiful. There Big Sandy deep and heavy bed. Big Sandy Station.	23	P.M. 12	A.M. 4	Aug. 9
9.	Cross hills forming divide of Little Blue River, ascending valley 60 miles long. Little Blue fine stream of clear water falling into Kansas River; every where good supplies and good camping-ground. Along the left bank to Kiowa.	19	A.M. 6	A.M. 10	Aug. 9
10.	Rough road of spurs and gullies runs up a valley 2 miles wide. Well wooded chiefly with cotton-wood, and grass abundant. Ranch at Liberty Farm, on the Little Blue.	25	A.M. 11	P.M. 3	Aug. 9
11.	Cross divide between Little Blue and Platte River; rough road, musquetoes troublesome. Approximate altitude of dividing ridge 2025 feet. Station at Thirty-two-Mile Creek, a small wooded and winding stream flowing into the Little Blue.	24	P.M. 4	P.M. 9	Aug. 9
12.	After 27 miles strike the Valley of the Platte, along the southern bank of the river, over level ground, good for camping, fodder abundant. After 7 miles Fort Kearney in N. lat. 40° 38′ 45″, and W. long. 98° 58′ 11″: approximate altitude 2500 feet above sea level. Groceries, cloths, provisions, and supplies of all kinds are to be procured from the sutler’s store. Beyond Kearney a rough and bad road leads to “Seventeen-Mile Station”.	34	P.M. 10 30	A.M. 8	Aug. 10
13.	Along the south bank of the Platte. Buffalo chips used for fuel. Sign of buffalo appears. Plum-Creek Station on a stream where there is a bad crossing in wet weather.	21	A.M. 9 30	P.M. 1 15	Aug. 10
14.	Beyond Plum Creek, Willow-Island Ranch, where supplies are procurable. Road along the Platte, wood scarce, grass plentiful, buffalo abounds; after 20 miles “Cold-Water Ranch.” Halt and change at Midway Station.	25	P.M. 2 30	P.M. 8	Aug. 10
15.	Along the Valley of the Platte, road muddy after rain, fuel scarce, grass abundant, camp traces every where. Ranch at Cotton-wood Station, at this season the western limit of buffalo.	27	P.M. 9	A.M. 1 45	Aug. 11
16.	Up the Valley of the Platte. No wood; buffalo chips for fuel. Good camping-ground; grass on small branch of the Platte. To Junction-House Ranch, and thence to station at Frémont Springs.	30	A.M. 6 15	A.M. 11	Aug. 11
17.	Road passes O’Fallon’s Bluffs. “Half-way House,” a store and ranch, distant 120 miles from Fort Kearney, 400 from St. Joseph, 40 from the Lower Crossing, and 68 from the Upper Crossing of the South Fork (Platte River). The station is called Alkali Lake.	25	NOON. 12	P.M. 5	Aug. 11
18.	Road along river; no timber; grass, buffalo chips, and musquetoes. Station at Diamond Springs near Lower Crossing.	25	P.M. 6	P.M. 10 15	Aug. 11
19.	Road along river. Last 4 miles very heavy sand, avoided by Lower Crossing. Poor accommodation at Upper Ford or Crossing on the eastern bank, where the mail passes the stream en route to Great Salt Lake City, and the road branches to Denver City and Pike’s Peak.	25	P.M. 11	A.M. 3 15	Aug. 12
20.	Ford Platte 600 yards wide, 2·50 feet deep, bed gravelly and solid, easy ford in dry season. Cross divide between North and South Forks, along the bank of Lodge-Pole Creek. Land arid; wild sage for fuel. Lodge-Pole Station.	35	A.M. 6 30	P.M. 12 45	Aug. 12
21.	Up Lodge-Pole Creek over a spur of table-land; then, striking over the prairie, finishes the high divide between the Forks. Approximate altitude 3500 feet. On the right is Ash Hollow, where there is plenty of wood and a small spring. The station is Mud Springs, a poor ranch.	25	P.M. 3	P.M. 5 45	Aug. 12
22.	Route lies over a rolling divide between the Forks, crossing Omaha, Lawrence, and other creeks, where water and grass are procurable. Cedar is still found in hill-gullies. About half a mile north of Chimney Rock is a ranch where the cattle are changed.	25	A.M. 8	P.M. 12 30	Aug. 13
23.	Road along the south bank of North Ford of Platte River. Wild sage the only fuel in the valley: small spring on top of first hill. Rugged labyrinth of paths abreast of Scott’s Bluffs, which lie 5 miles S. of river, in N. lat. 41° 48′ 26″, and W. long. 103° 45′ 02″. Water found in first ravine of Scott’s Bluffs 200 yards below the road, cedars on heights. To station.	24	P.M. 1 30	P.M. 5 30	Aug. 13
24.	Road along the river; crosses Little Kiowa Creek, a tributary to Horse Creek, which flows into the Platte. Ford Horse Creek, a clear shallow stream with a sandy bottom. No wood below the hills.	16	P.M. 6 30	P.M. 8 30	Aug. 13
25.	Route over sandy, and heavy river bottom and rolling ground, leaving the Platte on the right: cotton-wood and willows on the banks. Ranch at Laramie City kept by M. Badeau, a Canadian, who sells spirits, Indian goods, and outfit.	26	A.M. 6	P.M. 10 20	Aug. 14
26.	After 9 miles of rough road cross Laramie Fork and enter Fort Laramie, N. lat. 42° 12′ 38″, and W. long. 104° 31′ 26″. Altitude 4519 feet. Military post, with post-office, sutler’s stores, and other conveniences. Thence To Ward’s Station on the Central Star, small ranch and store.	18	P.M. 12 15	P.M. 4	Aug. 14
27.	Rough and bad road. After 14 miles cross Bitter Cotton-wood Creek; water rarely flows; after rain 10 feet wide and 6 inches deep; grass and fuel abundant. Pass Indian shop and store. At Bitter Creek branch of Cotton-wood the road to Salt Lake City forks. Emigrants follow the Upper or South road over spurs of the Black Hills, some way south of the river, to avoid kanyons and to find grass. The station is called Horseshoe Creek. Residence of road-agent, Mr. Slade, and one of the worst places on the line.	25	P.M. 5	P.M. 9 30	Aug. 14
28.	Road forks; one line follows the Platte, the other turns to the left, over “cut-off;” highly undulating ridges, crooked and deeply dented with dry beds of rivers; land desolate and desert. No wood nor water till end of stage. La Bonté River and Station; unfinished ranch in valley; water and grass.	25	A.M. 10 45	A.M. 2 45	Aug. 15
29.	Road runs 6 miles (wheels often locked) on rugged red land, crosses several dry beds of creeks, and springs with water after melting of snow and frosts in dry season, thence into the Valley of the Platte. After 17 miles it crosses the La Prêle (Rush River), a stream 16 feet wide, where water and wood abound. At Box-Elder Creek Station good ranch and comfortable camping-ground.	25	P.M. 4	P.M. 9	Aug. 15
30.	Along the Platte River, now shrunk to 100 yards. After 10 miles, M. Bissonette; at Deer Creek, a post-office, blacksmith’s shop, and store near Indian Agency. Thence a waste of wild sage to Little Muddy, a creek with water. No accommodation nor provisions at station.	20	A.M. 8 30	NOON. 12	Aug. 16
31.	After 8 miles cross vile bridge over Snow Creek. Thence up the river valley along the S. bank of the Platte to the lower ferry. To Lower Bridge, old station of troops. To Upper Bridge, where the ferry has now been done away with.	18	P.M. 1 15	P.M. 4 15	Aug. 16
32.	Road ascends a hill 7 miles long; land rough, barren, and sandy in dry season. After 10 miles, red spring near the Red Buttes, an old trading-place and post-office. Road then leaves the Platte River and strikes over high, rolling, and barren prairie. After 18 miles, “Devil’s Backbone” Station at Willow Springs; wood, water, and grass; good place for encampment, but no accommodation nor provisions. On this stage mineral and alkaline waters dangerous to cattle abound.	28	A.M. 6 30	P.M. 12 50	Aug. 17
33.	After 3 miles, Green Creek, not to be depended upon, and Prospect Hill, a good look-out. Then, at intervals of 3 miles, Harper’s, Woodworth’s, and Greasewood Creeks, followed by heavy sand. At 17 miles, “Saleratus Lake,” on the west of the road. Four miles beyond is “Independence Rock,” Ford Sweetwater, leaving the “Devil’s Gate” on the right. Pass a blacksmith’s shop. Sage the only fuel. Plante or Muddy Station; family of Canadians; no conveniences.	33	P.M. 2 30	P.M. 9 15	Aug. 17
34.	Along the winding banks of the Sweetwater. After 4 miles, “Alkali Lake” S. of the road. Land dry and stony; stunted cedars in hills. After 12 miles, the “Devil’s Post-office,” a singular bluff on the left of the road, and opposite a ranch kept by a Canadian. Mail station “Three Crossings,” at Ford No. 3; excellent water, wood, grass, game, and wild currants.	25	A.M. 7	A.M. 11	Aug. 18
35.	Up a kanyon of the Sweetwater. Ford the river 5 times, making a total of 8. After 16 miles, “Ice Springs” in a swampy valley, and one quarter of a mile beyond “Warm Springs.” Then rough descent and waterless stretch. Descend by “Lander’s Cut-off” into fertile bottom. “Rocky Ridge Station;” at Muskrat Creek good cold spring, grass, and sage fuel.	35	A.M. 5 45	P.M. 12 45	Aug. 19
36.	Up the bed of the creek, and, ascending long hills, leave the Sweetwater. After 4 miles, 3 alkaline ponds S. of the road. Rough path. After 7 miles, “Strawberry Creek,” 6 feet wide; good camping-ground; willows and poplars. One mile beyond is Quaking-Asp Creek, often dry. Three miles beyond lies M‘Achran’s Branch, 33 × 2. Then “Willow Creek,” 10 × 2; good camping-ground. At Ford No. 9 is a Canadian ranch and store. A long table-land leads to “South Pass,” dividing trip between the Atlantic and Pacific, and thence 2 miles to the station at “Pacific Springs;” water, tolerable grass, sage fuel, and musquetoes.	35	A.M. 7 45	P.M. 3	Aug. 20
37.	Cross Miry Creek. Road down Pacific Creek; water scarce for 20 miles. After 11 miles, “Dry Sandy Creek;” water scarce and too brackish to drink; grass little; sage and greasewood plentiful. After 16 miles, “Sublette’s Cut-off,” or the “Dry Drive,” turns N.W. to Soda Springs and Fort Hall: the left fork leads to Fort Bridger and Great Salt Lake City. Four miles beyond the junction is “Little Sandy Creek,” 20-25 × 2; grass, timber, and good camping-ground. Eight miles beyond is “Big Sandy Creek,” clear, swift, and with good crossing, 110 × 2. The southern route is the best; along the old road, no water for 49 miles. Big Sandy Creek Station.	33	A.M. 8	P.M. 12 50	Aug. 21
38.	Desolate road cuts off the bend of the river; no grass nor water. After 12 miles, “Simpson’s Hollow.” Fall into the Valley of Green River, half a mile wide, water 110 yards broad. After 201⁄2 miles, Upper Ford; Lower Ford 7 miles below Upper. Good camping-ground on bottom; at the station in Green River, grocery, stores, and ferry-boat when there is high water.	32	P.M. 1 45	P.M. 6 30	Aug. 21
39.	Diagonal ford over Green River; a good camping-ground in bottom. Follow the valley for 4 miles; grass and fuel. Michel Martin’s store and grocery. The road leaves the river and crosses a waterless divide to Black’s Fork, 100 × 2; grass and fuel. Wretched station at Ham’s Fork.	24	A.M. 8	NOON. 12	Aug. 22
40.	Ford Ham’s Fork. After 12 miles the road forks at the 2d striking of Ham’s Fork, both branches leading to Fort Bridger. Mail takes the left-hand path. Then Black’s Fork, 20 × 2, clear and pretty valley, with grass and fuel, cotton-wood and yellow currants. Cross the stream 3 times. After 12 miles, “Church Butte.” Ford Smith’s Fork, 30 feet wide and shallow, a tributary of Black’s Fork. Station at Millersville on Smith’s Fork; large store and good accommodation.	20	P.M. 2	P.M. 5 15	Aug. 22
41.	Road runs up the valley of Black’s Fork. After 12 miles, Fort Bridger, in N. lat. 41° 18′ 12″, and W. long. 110° 32′ 23″, on Black’s Fork of Green River. Commands Indian trade, fuel, corn; little grass. Post-office, sutler’s store, grocery, and other conveniences. Thence rough and rolling ground to Muddy Creek Hill; steep and stony descent. Over a fertile bottom to Big Muddy and Little Muddy Creek, which empties into Black’s Fork below Fort Bridger. At Muddy Creek Station there is a Canadian, provisions, excellent milk; no stores.	25	A.M. 8 30	P.M. 12 15	Aug. 23
42.	Rough country. The road winds along the ridge to Quaking-Asp Hill, 7900 (8400?) feet above sea level. Steep descent; rough and broken ground. After 18 miles, Sulphur Creek Valley; stagnant stream, flowing after rain; ford bad and muddy. Station in the fertile valley of Bear River, which turns northward and flows into the east side of the lake; wood, grass, and water. Poor accommodations at Bear River Station.	20	NOON. 12	P.M. 5 30	Aug. 23
43.	Road runs by Needle Rocks; falls into the Valley of Egan’s Creek. “Cache Cave” on the right hand. Three miles below the Cave is Red Fork in Echo Kanyon; unfinished station at the entrance. Rough road; steep ascents and descents along Red Creek Station on Weber River, which falls into Salt Lake south of Bear River.	36	A.M. 8 15	P.M. 2 30	Aug. 24
44.	Road runs down the Valley of the Weber. Ford the river. After 51⁄4 miles is a salt spring, where the road leaves the river to avoid a deep kanyon, and turns to the left into a valley with rough paths, trying to wheels. Then crosses a mountain, and, ascending a long hill, descends to Bauchmin’s Creek, tributary to Weber River. Creek 18 feet wide, swift, pebbly bed, good ford; grass and fuel abundant. The station is called Carson’s House; accommodations of the worst.	22	P.M. 4 30	P.M. 7 45	Aug. 24
45.	Ford Bauchmin’s Creek 13 times in 8 miles. After 2 miles along a small water-course ascend Big Mountain, whence first view of Great Salt Lake City, 12 miles distant. After 14 miles, Big Kanyon Creek. Six miles farther the road leaves Big Kanyon Creek, and after a steep ascent and descent makes Emigration Creek. Cross Little Mountain, 2 miles beyond Big Mountain; road rough and dangerous. Five miles from Emigration Kanyon to Great Salt Lake City. Road through “Big Field” 6 miles square.	29	A.M. 7	P.M. 7 15	Aug. 28

Great Salt Lake City,	N. lat. 40° 46′ 08″
	W. long. 112° 06′ 08″ (G.)
	Altitude 4300 feet.

The variation of compass at Temple Block in 1849 was 15° 47′ 23″, and in 1860 it was 15° 54′, a slow progress toward the east. (In the Wind-River Mountains, as laid down by Colonel Frémont in 1842, it was E. 18°.) In Fillmore Valley it is now 18° 15′, and three years ago was about 17° east; the rapid progression to the east is accompanied with extreme irregularity, which the people attribute to the metallic constituents of the soil.

Total of days between St. Jo and Great Salt Lake City.	19
Total stages.	45
Distance in statute miles.	1136
From Fort Leavenworth to Great Salt Lake City.	1168

ITINERARY OF THE MAIL-ROUTE FROM GREAT SALT LAKE CITY TO SAN FRANCISCO.

No. of Mail.		Miles.	Start.	Arrival.	Date.
1 and 2.	Road through the south of the city, due south along the right bank of the Jordan. Cross many creeks, viz., Kanyon Creek, 41⁄4 miles; Mill Creek, 21⁄2; First or Great Cotton-wood Creek, 2; Second ditto, 4; Fork of road, 11⁄4; Dry Creek, 31⁄2; Willow Creek, 23⁄4.	44	10 30	9 30	Sept. 20
	After 22-23 miles, hot and cold springs, and half-way house, the brewery under the point of the mountain. Road across Ash-Hollow or Jordan Kanyon, 2 miles. Fords river, knee deep; ascends a rough divide between Utah Valley and Cedar Valley, 10 miles from camp, and finally reaches Cedar Creek and Camp Floyd.
3.	Leaves Camp Floyd; 7 miles to the divide of Cedar Valley. Crosses the divide into Rush Valley; after a total of 18·2 miles reaches Meadow Creek; good grass and water. Rush Valley mail station 1 mile beyond; food and accommodation.	20	10 30	9 30	Sept. 27
4.	Crosses remains of Rush Valley 7 miles. Up a rough divide called General Johnston’s Pass. Spring, often dry, 200 yards on the right of the road. At Point Look-out leaves Simpson’s Road, which runs south. Cross Skull Valley; bad road. To the bench on the eastern flank of the desert. Station called Egan’s Springs, Simpson’s Springs, or Lost Springs, grass plentiful, water good.	27	A.M. 9 30	4 30	Sept. 28
5.	New station; road forks to S.E., and leads, after 5 miles, to grass and water. After 8 miles, river bottom, 1 mile broad. Long line over desert to express station, called Dugway; no grass, and no water.	20	12	P.M. 5 30	Sept. 29
6.	Steep road 21⁄2 miles to the summit of Dugway Pass. Descend by a rough incline; 8 miles beyond the road forks to Devil’s Hole, 90 miles from Camp Floyd on Simpson’s route, and 6 miles S. of Fish Springs. Eight miles beyond the fork is Mountain Point; road winds S. and W., and then N. to avoid swamp, and crosses 3 sloughs. Beyond the last is Fish-Spring Station, on the bench—a poor place; water plentiful, but bad. Cattle here drink for the first time after Lost Springs, distant 48 miles.	28	P.M. 6 30	A.M. 3 30	Sept. 29
7.	Road passes many pools. Half way forks S. to Pleasant Valley (Simpson’s line). Road again rounds the swamp, crossing S. end of Salt Plain. After 21 miles, “Willow Creek;” water rather brackish. Station “Willow Springs” on the bench below the hills, at W. end of desert; grass and hay plentiful.	22	A.M. 10	3 30	Sept. 30
8.	Road ascending the bench, turns N. to find the pass. After 6 miles, Mountain Springs; good water, grass, and fuel. Six miles beyond is Deep-Creek Kanyon, a dangerous ravine 9 miles long. Then descends into a fertile and well-watered valley, and after 7 miles enters Deep-Creek mail station. Indian farm.	28	A.M. 8	P.M. 4	Oct. 1
9.	Along Willow Creek. After 8 miles, “Eight-Miles Springs;” water, grass, and sage fuel. Kanyon after 21⁄2 miles, 500 yards long and easy. Then 19 miles through Antelope Valley to the station of the same name, burnt in June, 1860, by Indians. Simpson’s route from Pleasant Valley, distant 12·5 miles, falls into the E. end of Antelope Valley, from Camp Floyd 151 miles.	30	A.M. 8	P.M. 4	Oct. 3, 4
10.	Road over the valley for 2 miles to the mouth of Shell-Creek Kanyon, 6 miles long. Rough road; fuel plentiful. Descends into Spring Valley, and then passes over other divides into Shell Creek, where there is a mail station; water, grass, and fuel abundant.	18	A.M. 6	P.M. 11	Oct. 5
11.	Descends a rough road. Crosses Steptoe Valley and bridged creek. Road heavy, sand or mud. After 16 miles, Egan’s Kanyon, dangerous for Indians. Station at the W. mouth burned by Indians in October, 1860.	18	P.M. 2	P.M. 6	Oct. 5
12.	Pass the divide, fall into Butte Valley, and cross its N. end. Bottom very cold. Mail station half way up a hill; a very small spring; grass on the N. side of the hill. Butte Station.	18	P.M. 8	A.M. 3	Oct. 6
13.	Ascend the long divide; 2 steep hills and falls. Cross the N. end of Long Valley, all barren. Ascend the divide, and descend into Ruby Valley; road excellent; water, grass, and bottom; fuel distant. Good mail station.	22	A.M. 8	P.M. 1 45	Oct. 7
14.	Long divide; fuel plenty; no grass nor water. After 10 miles the road branches to the right hand to Gravelly Ford of Humboldt River. Cross a dry bottom. Cross Smith’s Fork of Humboldt River in Huntingdon Valley; a little stream; bunch-grass and sage fuel on the W. end. Ascend Chokop’s Pass, Dugway, and hard hill; descend into Moonshine Valley. Station at Diamond Springs; warm water, but good.	23	A.M. 8	P.M. 1 45	Oct. 8, 9
15.	Cross Moonshine Valley. After 7 miles a sulphurous spring and grass. Twelve miles beyond ascend the divide; no water; fuel and bunch-grass plentiful. Then a long divide. After 9 miles, the station on Roberts’ Creek, at the E. end of Sheawit, or Roberts’ Springs Valley.	28	A.M. 8	P.M. 1 45	Oct. 10
16.	Down the valley to the west; good road; sage small; no fuel. After 12 miles, willows and water-holes; 3 miles beyond there are alkaline wells. Station on the bench; water below in a dry creek; grass must be brought from 15 miles.	35	A.M. 6 30	P.M. 12 30	Oct. 11
17.	Cross a long rough divide to Smoky Valley. At the northern end is a creek called “Wanahonop,” or “Netwood,” i. e., trap. Thence a long rough kanyon to Simpson’s Park; grass plentiful; water in wells 10 feet deep. Simpson’s Park in Shoshonee country, and, according to Simpson’s Itinerary, 348 miles from Camp Floyd.	25	A.M. 8 15	P.M. 2 25	Oct. 12
18.	Cross Simpson’s Park. Ascend Simpson’s Pass, a long kanyon, with sweet “Sage Springs” on the summit; bunch-grass plentiful. Descend to the fork of the road; right hand to the lower, left hand to the upper ford of Reese’s River. Water perennial and good; food poor.	15	A.M. 10	P.M. 2	Oct. 13
19.	Through the remainder of Reese’s River Valley. After a long divide, the Valley of Smith’s Creek; saleratus; no water nor grass. At last, the station, near a kanyon, and hidden from view. The land belongs to the Pa Yutas.	28	A.M. 7 20	P.M. 2 45	Oct. 14
20.	Ascend a rough kanyon, and descend to a barren and saleratus plain. Toward the south of the valley over bench-land, rough with rock and pitch-hole. “Cold Springs Station” half built, near stream; fuel scarce.	25	A.M. 8 15	P.M. 4 15	Oct. 15
21.	At the west gate, 2 miles from the station, good grass. After 8 miles, water. Two miles beyond is the middle gate; water in fiumara, and grass near. Beyond the gate are 2 basins, long divides, winding road to “Sand Springs Valley;” bad water; little grass.	35	A.M. 9 50	P.M. 2 30	Oct. 16
22.	Cross the valley, 10 miles to the summit, over slough inundations and bad road. Summit shifting sand. Descend 5 miles to Carson Lake; water tolerable; tule abundant. Round the S. side of the lake to the sink of Carson River Station; no provisions; pasture good; fuel scarce.	25	A.M. 11	P.M. 9	Oct. 17
23.	Cross a long plain. Ascend a very steep divide, and sight Sierra 50 miles distant. Descend to Carson River. Fort Churchill newly built. Sutler’s stores, etc.	25	A.M. 9 30	P.M. 7 15	Oct. 18
24.	Carson City	35	11	10 30	Oct. 19
	Carson City lies on the eastern foot of the Sierra Nevada, distant 552 statute miles, according to Captain Simpson, from Camp Floyd. The present itinerary reduces it to 544, and, adding 44 miles, to a total of 588 from Great Salt Lake City.

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Itinerary of Captain J. H. Simpson’s Wagon-road from Camp Floyd to Genoa, Carson Valley, Utah Territory. Explored by direction of General A. G. Johnston, commanding the Department of Utah, between the 2d of May and the 12th of June, 1859.

Places.	Inter- mediate Dis- tances. Miles.	From Camp to Camp. Miles.	Total from Camp Floyd. Miles.	No. of Camp.	Wood.	Water.	Grass.
Camp Floyd, wood and grass in vicinity.						W
Meadow Creek.	18·2	18·2	18·2	1
Cross Meadow Creek (Rush Valley), mail station 1⁄4 mile.	1
Spring 1⁄4 mile to the right of General Johnston’s Pass, just after passing the summit. This spring furnishes but little water, even in the spring, and in the summer would be most probably dry.	8·9	9·9	28·1	2	W	W	G
Simpson’s Springs, mail station.	16·2	16·2	44·3	3	W	W	G
Summit, Short-cut Pass.	21·6				Willow
1·6 miles below summit.	1·6	23·2	67·5	4	Sage		very little grass
Tolerable grass skirting a low range of rocks on the right of the road.	7·8						G
A little grass; sage in valley.	4·8				S		G
Devil’s Hole; water slightly brackish.	6·7					W
Fish Springs, mail station.	5·4	24·7	92·2	5	Ctw	W	G
Warm Springs.	3·4				GW	W	G
Grass in considerable quantity of good character.	26·4	29·7	121·9	6			G
Alkaline spring to the right of the road; water not drinkable.	1·
Sulphur springs; water abundant and palatable.	1·5	2·5	125·	7	W,S	W	G
Spring, Pleasant Valley, mail station.	13·4	13·4	138·4	8	W	W	G
East side of Antelope Valley.		12·5	150·9	9	W	W	G
Spring Valley; good grass on the west bench and slopes.		19·	169·9	10	GW	W	G
Cross a marsh; road takes up a fine stream; grass all along.	3·5
Leave Creek.	3·5				W	W	G
Spring, copious; grass fine.	2·8				W	W	G
East side of Steptoe Valley, mail station.	1·3	11·1	181·0	11	W	W	G
Steptoe Creek; dry in summer.	6·5
Mouth of Egan Kanyon.	6·8	13·3	194·3	12	W	W	G
Spring; source of Egan Creek.	1·8				W	W	G
West side of Butte Valley. Mail station; a very small spring, barely sufficient for cooking purposes, near the top of the hill; grass on the N. side of same hill.	16·2	18·1	212·4	13	W	W	G
Spring 1 mile west side of summit of range.	12·	12·	224·4	14	W	W	G
Ruby Valley, mail station.	9·2	9·2	233·6	15	GW	W	G
Smith’s Fork, Humboldt River, Huntingdon’s Creek.	14·4
Small mountain stream.	3·3	17·6	251·2	16	GW	W	G
Spring left of the road.	1·2				GW	W	G
Near west foot of Cho-kupe Pass.	5·8	7·1	258·3	17	GW	W	G
Spring in Pah-hun-nupe Valley.	7·8
Do. west side of Pah-hun-nupe Valley.	5·6	13·3	271·6	18	S,W GW	W	G
She-a-wi-te (Willow) Creek.	14·9	14·9	286·5	19	S,W	W	G
Bed of Nash River; water in pools, probably not constant.	11·6
Small spring; grass on mountain side, 2 miles off.	5·9	17·5	304·	20	S,W	W	G
Wons-in-dam-me, or Antelope Creek.	7·	7·	311·	21	W	W	G
Creek.	4·3				S,W	W	G
Creek west side of valley.	9·5	13·7	324·7	22	S,W	W	G
Wan-a-ho-no-pe (Netwood trap) Creek.	13·6
Wan-a-ho-no-pe (Netwood trap) Creek.	4·6	18·2	342·9	23	S,W	W	G
Simpson’s Park, according to topographer, Lieutenant Putnam, and guide, Colonel Reese.	4·9	4·9	347·8	24	S,W	W	G
Small spring in Simpson’s Pass (same authority).	3·
Ford of Reese’s River.	8·2					W	G
Reese’s River.	2·6	13·8	361·6	25		W	G
Leave Reese’s River.	3·4					W	G
Small spring to the left of the road, just before reaching the summit of the Pass.	10·
Lieutenant J. L. Kirby Smith’s Creek.	7·8	21·2	382·8	26	GW	W	G
Engleman’s Creek.	1·6					W
Lieutenant Putnam’s Creek.	8·6	10·2	393·	27	S,W	W	G
Lieutenant Putnam’s South Fork.	2·7				W	W	G
Rock Creek.	3·				W	W	G
Rock Creek.	3·1	8·7	401·7	28	W	W	G
Rock Creek Sinks.	1·7
Spring-water kegs should be filled for 2 days. Camp from this in alkaline flat.	5·4					W
Gibraltar Gate.	0·6					W
Creek joins Gibraltar Creek.	4·2
Middle-Gate Spring.	3·2	14·7	416·4	29	S,W	W	G
West Gate.	3·5
Dry wells; alkaline valley; very poor camp; water and grass alkaline, and little of either. Rabbit-bush fuel.	21·0	24·5	440·9	30	Rab. bush	W	G
Creek connecting the two lakes of Carson. Road can be shortened some eight or ten miles by striking across the head of Alkaline Valley after getting about nine miles from Camp 30, and then proceeding directly to the shore of Carson Lake. It is not necessary to go so far north as the connecting creek referred to.		16·6	457·5	31	Dry rush	W	R,G
Leave Carson Lake.	9·7					W	R,G
Walker’s River.	21·5	31·2	488·7	32	W	W	G
Walker’s River.		10·	498·7	33	W	W	G
Walker’s North Bend.		6·3	505·	34	W	W	G
Small spring, not sufficient for a large command; grass 1⁄2 mile south.	14·1				S,W	W	G
Carson River.	1·9
Carson River.	3·0	19·0	524·	35	W	W	G
Pleasant Grove; cross Carson River and get into Old Emigrant Road. Mail station.	9·0	9·0	533·	36	W	W	G
China Town. Gold diggings.	7·4					W
Carson City. East foot of Sierra Nevada.	11·6	19·0	552·	37		W	G
Genoa. East foot of Sierra Nevada.	12·9	12·9	564·9	38	W	W	G

(Signed), J. H. Simpson, Capt. Top. Engineers.

To Brevet Major F. J. Porter, Assist. Adj. Gen., Dept. Utah, Camp Floyd.

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II. DESCRIPTION OF THE MORMON TEMPLE.
[Extracted from the Deserét News.]

The following is a brief detail of the temple, taken from drawings in my office in Great Salt Lake City.

The Temple Block is 40 rods square, the lines running north and south, east and west, and contains 10 acres. The centre of the temple is 156 feet 6 inches due west from the centre of the east line of the block. The length of said house east and west is 186¹⁄₂ feet, including towers, and the width 99 feet. On the east end there are three towers, as also on the west. Draw a line north and south 118¹⁄₂ feet through the centre of the tower, and you have the north and south extent of ground-plan, including pedestal.

We depress into the earth at the east end to the depth of 16 feet, and enlarge all around beyond the lines of wall 3 feet for a footing. The north and south walls are 8 feet thick clear of pedestal; they stand upon a footing of 16 feet wall on its bearing, which slopes 3 feet on each side to the height of 7¹⁄₂ feet. The footing of the towers rise to the same height as the side, and is one solid piece of masonry of rough ashlars, laid in good lime mortar.

The basement of the main building is divided into many rooms by walls, all having footings. The line of the basement floor is 6 inches above the top of the footing. From the towers on the east to the towers on the west, the face of the earth slopes 6 feet; 4 inches above the earth on the east line begins a promenade walk from 11 to 22 feet wide around the entire building, and approached by stone steps as the earth slopes and requires them. There are four towers on the four corners of the building, each starting from their footing of 26 feet square; these continue 16¹⁄₂ feet high, and come to the line of the base string course, which is 8 feet above the promenade walk. At this point the towers are reduced to 25 feet square; they then continue to the height of 38 feet, or the height of the second string course. At this point they are reduced to 23 feet square; they then continue 38 feet high to the third string course. The string courses continue all around the building, except when separated by buttresses. These string courses are massive mouldings from solid blocks of stone.

The two east towers then rise 25 feet to a string course or cornice. The two west towers rise 19 feet, and come to their string course or cornice. The four towers then rise 9 feet to the top of battlements. These towers are cylindrical, having 17 feet diameter inside, within which stairs ascend around a solid column 4 feet in diameter, allowing landings at the various sections of the building. These towers have each five ornamental windows on two sides above the basement. The two centre towers occupy the centre of the east and west ends of the building, starting from their footings 31 feet square, and break off in sections in line with corner towers, to the height of the third string course. The east centre tower then rises 40 feet to the top of battlements; the west centre tower rises 34 feet to the top of battlements. All these towers have spires; the east centre tower rises 200 feet, while the west centre tower rises 190 feet. All these towers at their corners have octagon turrets, terminated by octagon pinnacles 5 feet diameter at base, 4 feet at first story, and three feet from there up. There are also on each side of these towers two buttresses, except where they come in contact with the body of the main building. The top of these buttresses show forty-eight in number, and stand upon pedestals. The space between the buttresses and turrets is 2 feet at the first story. On the front of the two centre towers are two large windows, each 32 feet high, one above the other, neatly prepared for that place.

On the two west corner towers, and on the west end a few feet below the top of battlements, may be seen in alto-relievo and bold relief the great dipper, or Ursa Major, with the pointers ranging nearly toward the north star. (Moral: the lost may find themselves by the priesthood.)

I will now glance at the main body of the house. I have before stated that the basement was divided into many rooms. The central one is arranged for a baptismal font, and is 59 feet long by 35 feet wide, separated from the main wall by four rooms, two on each side, 19 feet long by 12 feet wide. On the east and west sides of these rooms are four passages 12 feet wide; these lead to and from by outside doors, two on the north and two on the south. Farther east and west from these passages are four more rooms, two at each end, 28 feet wide by 38¹⁄₂ long. These two thin walls occupy the basement. All the walls start off their footings, and rise 16¹⁄₂ feet, and there stop with groin ceiling.

We are now up to the line of the base string course, 8 feet above the promenade or steps rising to the temple, which terminates at the cope of the pedestal, and to the first floor of said house. This room is joined to the outer courts, these courts being the width between towers 16 feet by 9 in the clear. We ascend to the floors of these courts (they being on a line with the first floor of the main house) by four flights of stone steps 9¹⁄₂ feet wide, arranged in the basement work, the first step ranging to the outer line of towers. From these courts doors admit to any part of the building.

The size of the first large room is 120 feet long by 80 feet wide; the height reaches nearly to the second string course. The room is arched over in the centre with an elliptical arch, which drops at its flank 10 feet, and has 38 feet span. The side ceilings have one fourth elliptical arches, which start from the side walls of the main building 16 feet high, and terminate at the capitals of the columns, or foot of centre arch, at the height of 24 feet. The columns obtain their bearings direct from the footings of the said house; these columns extend up to support the floor above. The outside walls of this story are 7 feet thick. The space, from the termination of the foot of the centre arch to the outer wall, is divided into sixteen compartments, eight in each side, making rooms 14 feet by 14, clear of partitions, and 10 feet high, leaving a passage of 6 feet wide next to each flank of the centre arch, which is approached from the ends. These rooms are each lighted by an elliptical or oval window, whose major axis is vertical.

The second large room is one foot wider than the room below; this is in consequence of the wall being but 6 feet thick, falling off 6 inches on the inner and 6 on the outer side. The second string course provides for this on the outer side. The rooms of this story are similar to those below. The side walls have nine buttresses on a side, and have eight tiers of windows, five in each tier.

The foot of the basement windows are 8 inches above the promenade, rise 3 feet perpendicular, and terminate in a semicircular head. The first-story windows have 12 feet long of sash to the top of the semicircular head. The oval windows have 6¹⁄₂ feet length of sash. The windows of the second story are the same as those below. All these frames have 4¹⁄₂ feet width of sash. The pedestals under all the buttresses project at their base 2 feet; above their base, which is 15 inches by 4¹⁄₂ feet wide, on each front is a figure of a globe 3 feet 11 inches across, whose axis corresponds with the axis of the earth.

The base string course forms a cope for those pedestals. Above this cope the buttresses are 3¹⁄₂ feet, and continue to the height of 100 feet. Above the promenade, close under the second string course on each of the buttresses, is the moon, represented in its different phases. Close under the third string course or cornice is the face of the sun. Immediately above is Saturn with his rings. The buttresses terminate with a projected cope.

The only difference between the tower buttresses and the one just described is, instead of Saturn being on them, we have clouds and rays of light descending.

All of these symbols are to be chiseled in bas-relief on solid stone. The side walls continue above the string course or cornice 8¹⁄₂ feet, making the walls 96 feet high, and are formed in battlements interspersed with stars.

This roof is quite flat, rising only 8 feet, and is to be covered with galvanized iron or some other metal. The building is to be otherwise ornamented in many places. The whole structure is designed to symbolize some of the great architectural work above. The basement windows recede in from the face of the outer wall to the sash frame 23 inches, and are relieved by a large cavetto, while on the inside they are approached by stone steps.

Those windows above the base recede from the face of the wall to the sash frame 3 feet, and are surrounded by stone jambs formed in mouldings, and surmounted by labels over each, which terminate at their horizon, excepting the oval windows, whose labels terminate as columns, which extend from an enriched string course at the foot of each window to the centre of the major axis. My chief object in the last paragraph is to show to the judgment of any who may be baffled how those windows can be come at, etc., etc. All the windows in the towers are moulded, and have stone jambs, each being crowned with label mouldings. The whole house covers an area of 21,850 feet.

For farther particulars, wait till the house is done, then come and see it.

(Signed), Truman O. Angell, Architect.

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III. THE MARTYRDOM OF JOSEPH SMITH.
BY APOSTLE JOHN TAYLOR.

Being requested by George A. Smith and Willford Woodruff, Church historians, to write an account of events that transpired before and took place at the time of the martyrdom of Joseph Smith, in Carthage jail, in Hancock County, State of Illinois, I write the following principally from memory, not having access to any public documents relative thereto farther than a few desultory items contained in Ford’s “History of Illinois.” I must also acknowledge myself considerably indebted to George A. Smith, who was with me when I wrote it, and who, although not there at the time of the bloody transaction, yet from conversing with several persons who were in the capacity of Church historians, and aided by an excellent memory, has rendered me a considerable service. These and the few items contained in the notes at the end of this account is all the aid I have had. I would farther add that the items contained in the letter, in relation to dates especially, may be considered strictly correct.

After having written the whole, I read it over to the Hon. J. M. Bernhisel, who, with one or two slight alterations, pronounced it strictly correct. Brother Bernhisel was present most of the time. I am afraid that, from the length of time that has transpired since the occurrence, and having to rely almost exclusively on my memory, there may be some slight inaccuracies, but I believe that in the general it is strictly correct; as I figured in those transactions from the commencement to the end, they left no slight impression on my mind.

In the year 1844, a very great excitement prevailed in some parts of the counties of Hancock, Brown, and other neighboring counties, in relation to the “Mormons,” and a spirit of vindictive hatred and persecution was exhibited among the people, which was manifested in the most bitter and acrimonious language, as well as by acts of hostility and violence, frequently threatening the destruction of the citizens of Nauvoo and vicinity, and utter annihilation of the “Mormons” and “Mormonism,” and in some instances breaking out in the most violent acts of ruffianly barbarity; persons were kidnapped, whipped, prosecuted, and falsely accused of various crimes; their cattle and houses injured, destroyed, or stolen; vexatious prosecutions were instituted to vex, harass, and annoy. In some remote neighborhoods they were expelled from their homes without redress, and in others violence was threatened to their persons and property, while in others every kind of insult and indignity was heaped upon them, to induce them to abandon their homes, the county, or the state.

These annoyances, prosecutions, and persecutions were instigated through different agencies and by various classes of men, actuated by different motives, but all uniting in the one object, prosecution, persecution, and extermination of the Saints.

There were a number of wicked and corrupt men living in Nauvoo and its vicinity who had belonged to the Church, but whose conduct was incompatible with the Gospel; they were accordingly dealt with by the Church and severed from its communion; some of these had been prominent members, and held official stations either in the city or Church. Among these was John C. Bennett, formerly Mayor; William Law, Councilor to Joseph Smith; Wilson Law, his natural brother, and general in the Nauvoo Legion; Dr. R. D. Foster, a man of some property, but with a very bad reputation; Francis and Chauncey Higbee, the latter a young lawyer, and both sons of a respectable and honored man in the Church, known as Judge Elias Higbee, who died about twelve months before.

Besides these, there were a great many apostates, both in the city and country, of less notoriety, who, for their delinquencies, had been expelled from the Church. John C. Bennett and Francis and Chauncey Higbee were cut off from the Church; the former was also cashiered from his generalship for the most flagrant acts of seduction and adultery; and such was the scandalous nature of the developments in their cases, that the high council before whom they were tried had to sit with closed doors.

William Law, although councilor to Joseph, was found to be his most bitter foe and maligner, and to hold intercourse, contrary to all law, in his own house, with a young lady resident with him, and it was afterward proved that he had conspired with some Missourians to take Joseph Smith’s life, and was only saved by Josiah Arnold, who, being on guard at his house, prevented the assassins from seeing him. Yet, although having murder in his heart, his manners were generally courteous and mild, and he was well calculated to deceive.

General Wilson Law was cut off from the Church for seduction, falsehood, and defamation; both the above were also court-martialed by the Nauvoo Legion and expelled. Foster was also cut off, I believe, for dishonesty, fraud, and falsehood. I know he was eminently guilty of the whole, but whether these were the specific charges or not, I don’t know, but I do know that he was a notoriously wicked and corrupt man.

Besides the above characters and “Mormonic” apostates, there were other three parties. The first of these may be called religionists, the second politicians, and the third counterfeiters, blacklegs, horse-thieves, and cut-throats.

The religious party were chagrined and maddened because “Mormonism” came in contact with their religion, and they could not oppose it from the Scriptures; and thus, like the ancient Jews, when enraged at the exhibition of their follies and hypocrisies by Jesus and his apostles, so these were infuriated against the Mormons because of their discomfiture by them; and instead of owning the truth and rejoicing in it, they were ready to gnash upon them with their teeth, and to persecute the believers in principles which they could not disprove.

The political party were those who were of opposite politics to us. There were always two parties, the Whigs and Democrats, and we could not vote for one without offending the other; and it not unfrequently happened that candidates for office would place the issue of their election upon opposition to the “Mormons,” in order to gain political influence from religious prejudice, in which case the “Mormons” were compelled, in self-defense, to vote against them, which resulted almost invariably against our opponents. This made them angry; and, although it was of their own making, and the “Mormons” could not be expected to do otherwise, yet they raged on account of their discomfiture, and sought to wreak their fury on the “Mormons.” As an instance of the above, when Joseph Duncan was candidate for the office of Governor of Illinois, he pledged himself to his party that, if he could be elected, he would exterminate or drive the “Mormons” from the state.[234] The consequence was that Governor Ford was elected. The Whigs, seeing that they had been outgeneraled by the Democrats in securing the “Mormon” vote, became seriously alarmed, and sought to repair their disaster by raising a kind of crusade against that people. The Whig newspapers teemed with accounts of the wonders and enormities of Nauvoo, and of the awful wickedness of a party which could consent to receive the support of such miscreants. Governor Duncan, who was really a brave, honest man, and who had nothing to do with getting the “Mormon” charters passed through the Legislature, took the stump on this subject in good earnest, and expected to be elected governor almost on this question alone. The third party, composed of counterfeiters, blacklegs, horse-thieves, and cut-throats, were a pack of scoundrels that infested the whole of the Western country at that time. In some districts their influence was so great as to control important state and county offices. On this subject Governor Ford says the following: