Contents

Chapter Page
Introductory Chapter 11
I. First Impressions of Korea 23
II. First Impressions of the Capital 35
III. The Kur-dong 49
IV. Seoul, the Korean Mecca 59
V. The Sailing of the Sampan 66
VI. On the River of Golden Sand 71
VII. Views Afloat 82
VIII. Natural Beauty—The Rapids 98
IX. Korean Marriage Customs 114
X. The Korean Pony—Korean Roads and Inns 121
XI. Diamond Mountain Monasteries 133
XII. Along the Coast 150
XIII. Impending War—Excitement at Chemulpo 177
XIV. Deported to Manchuria 185
XV. A Manchurian Deluge—A Passenger Cart—An Accident 192
XVI. Mukden and its Missions 199
XVII. Chinese Troops on the March 206
XVIII. Nagasaki—Wladivostok 213
XIX. Korean Settlers in Siberia 223
XX. The Trans-Siberian Railroad 239
XXI. The King’s Oath—An Audience 245
XXII. A Transition Stage 261
XXIII. The Assassination of the Queen 269
XXIV. Burial Customs 283
XXV. Song-do: A Royal City 292
XXVI. The Phyong-yang Battlefield 301
XXVII. Northward Ho! 320
XXVIII. Over the An-kil Yung Pass 330
XXIX. Social Position of Women 338
XXX. Exorcists and Dancing Women 344
XXXI. The Hair-cropping Edict 359
XXXII. The Reorganized Korean Government 371
XXXIII. Education and Foreign Trade 387
XXXIV. Dæmonism or Shamanism 399
XXXV. Notes on Dæmonism Concluded 409
XXXVI. Seoul in 1897 427
XXXVII. Last Words on Korea 445
Appendixes 461
Appendix A.Mission Statistics for Korea 1896.
Appendix B.Direct Foreign Trade of Korea 1886-95.
Appendix C.Return of Principal Articles of Export for the years 1896-95.
Appendix D.Population of Treaty Ports.
Appendix E.Treaty between Japan and Russia, with reply of H.E., the Korean Minister for Foreign Affairs.
Index 475