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CHAPTER VI.

Approach to the City of Marocco — Pleasant encounter — Halt in an olive garden — Interior of the city — Difficulty as to lodging — Governor unfriendly — Camp in the great square — Negotiations with the Viceroy — Successful result — Palace of Ben Dreis — Diplomatic difficulties — Gardens of Marocco — Interview with El Graoui.

After vainly waiting nearly two hours for the return of our soldier, we determined to push on towards the city of Marocco, though somewhat uncertain what the character of our reception might be. This was not merely a matter affecting our personal comfort during our short stay, but was certain to have an important effect on the success of our subsequent journey, and it was a most fortunate circumstance that Hooker’s long experience in contending with the jealousies and suspicions of the native authorities in Nepal and the border States of North-eastern India, and his thorough knowledge of the character of people, who, though far removed, very much resemble the Moors in their ideas and maxims of policy, had prepared him to deal with them successfully. We had gained the first essential condition for exploring the unknown valleys of the Great Atlas, by obtaining the consent of the Sultan; but it was impossible to guess the precise tenor of the orders forwarded by him to the local authorities, and, whatever these might be, the ultimate result would largely depend on the good or ill faith of the latter in carrying them into effect. The person whose favourable dispositions it was chiefly important to secure was El Graoui, who exercises under the Sultan a wide authority as Governor of nearly all the tribes of the Great Atlas that recognise the imperial authority, extending over a considerable portion of the country at the foot of the mountains inhabited by a Shelluh population. El Graoui, as we knew, lived in the city of Marocco, but outside his own jurisdiction. The Governor of the city and its immediate neighbourhood was Ben Daoud, a man notorious for his dislike to strangers and especially to Christians, and it was to him that we had to look for our reception, on our arrival.

From whatever side it be approached the city of Marocco presents an imposing appearance. The western side presented an outline about a mile and a half in length. Massive walls, some thirty feet in height, with square towers at intervals of about 120 yards, completely enclose it, and on two sides at least it is girdled by a wide belt of gardens in which the date-palm, olive, and fig are the most conspicuous trees. Here, as elsewhere, the date-palm flourishes in a sandy soil where the roots plunge into a more compact subsoil kept moist by infiltration. On the north-west side the palm groves, which we passed on our left, are so close and continuous as to give the effect of a forest, while along our route they alternated with other cultivated trees. The effect of the scene as we approached was peculiar and new. The luxuriance of the vegetation that at intervals screened from view the great range of the Atlas, the majestic old olive trees, the rough trunks of the tall palms on which stood many a motionless chameleon; the walls and towers of the great city seen at intervals as we wound among the gardens and groves, combined to form a striking and highly picturesque scene. It was near 4 o’clock when, as we were drawing near the walls, we were startled by the sudden appearance of a party of well-mounted Moors in flowing haïks, whose horses leaped in succession through a gap in an adjoining fence and advanced to meet us. Our surprise was increased when the foremost of the party greeted us in English with a friendly welcome. This gentleman, whose outward appearance was quite undistinguishable from that of his companions, was Mr. Hunot, brother of the British Vice-Consul at Saffi, and representative at Marocco, of the house of Messrs. Perry & Co., of Liverpool. His companions, grave and courteous-looking Moors of considerable local influence, were Sidi Mohammed Hassanowe [1] and Sidi Boubikir, with two or three more of less note. We were invited into an adjoining garden, where carpets were spread under large olive trees, and a refection in the Moorish style, consisting of green tea, cakes of wheaten flour and kabobs, was speedily prepared.

Mr. Hunot had spent several months in the city, and in the absence of M. Lambert, a French merchant, who has lived there for many years, was the only European resident. Although his thorough familiarity with the language, customs, and ideas of the natives made his position less difficult, he found it practically so irksome that he was then on the point of returning to Saffi, his ordinary residence; and we owe it to his kind desire to assist us during this critical period of our journey that he postponed his departure for a day. The time passed very pleasantly, and we listened with satisfaction to the opinion expressed by our hosts that no obstacles would be interposed to our intended journey in the Atlas; when the first sign of rocks ahead was disclosed on the return of the messenger despatched to ascertain what sort of lodging had been prepared for us. When the messenger acknowledged that a very small house with but two rooms had been provided, it became clear that, so far as the city authorities were concerned, there was no disposition to show us much courtesy. Hooker at once sent back a message to the Governor, that we should require a much larger house, or else an enclosed garden in which to pitch our tents. After about half-an-hour’s delay, the messenger again appeared, saying that a much larger house, with four rooms, and more adjoining if required, was ready to receive us. Hereupon we resolved to enter the city, and in company with our new friends, whose ample haïks picturesquely draped must have contrasted favourably with the ugly jellabias that we wore over our European dress, we defiled in a long cavalcade, followed by the mules, camels, and donkeys of our train, through the gardens that on this side approach close to the city walls.

Before the gate we found an officer, evidently of inferior position, with some ten or twelve ragged fellows on foot, armed with rusty matchlocks, posted there to receive us, and to conduct us to our quarters; and with this sorry escort, we made our entry into Marocco. It is impossible by any language to convey the sense of utter disappointment and disgust which overpowered us on our first arrival; and though these feelings soon became subordinate to others connected with our personal position, they are those which predominate in our subsequent recollections.

After passing the gateway we had before us a wide road, with a lofty mud wall on one side and a lower mud wall on the other. The high wall on the right forms part of the enclosure of the Sultan’s palace; over that on the left branches of shrubs or trees appeared, showing that gardens or orchards lay behind. On either side of the road rose accumulations of refuse and filth that looked as if they might have been the growth of centuries, and the farther we went the greater became the piles of abomination, until it seemed as if these would block up the passage. We had passed a fine Moorish arch of wide span, that forms the chief entrance to the palace enclosure, and following this as it makes a sharp turn to the right, there were still no signs of dwellings. The mud walls on either side, on which many storks built their nests, were often in a ruinous state; and here and there it seemed as if people had burrowed beneath so as to make something between a den and a hovel. At length we turned into a sort of lane, and soon emerged into what appears to be one of the main streets. Hitherto we had met very few passers-by; but we now found ourselves in a rather crowded thoroughfare, encountering a good many men on horseback, and a large number of foot passengers, many of them veiled women. The street displayed nothing but mud walls, about twenty feet in height, without a single window, but with openings at frequent intervals leading into short and narrow passages or lanes. The behaviour of the people as we passed was singular. Some of them cast scowling looks at us and muttered words, certainly not of welcome, which may very likely have included some unflattering references to our grandmothers; but the great majority went by without seeming to heed us in the least, as though European costume, which had probably not been seen within the walls since M. Beaumier’s visit in February, 1868, were a familiar sight calling for no remark.

At length the head of our escort turned suddenly into one of the narrow lanes, barely wide enough to let a laden camel pass; we followed and, after passing the entrances of five or six other houses, reached a low door at the end of the lane. Stooping through the mean entrance and a short passage, we found a small open court, about fifteen feet square, on each side of which was a narrow room, receiving no light except from the court. A very brief inspection showed that the whole place was swarming with insects of every kind; and as Hooker turned round to express his opinion and his intentions, it was found that the officer with his rabble escort had decamped the moment he saw us safe into the house, thinking no doubt that we had thus no option but to remain there. When Hooker announced in very decisive terms his resolution not to sleep in such a house, Mr. Hunot and our new Moorish friends, foreseeing a row between us and the Governor, urged that we should put up with the house for that night, and on the following morning negotiate for a more suitable dwelling. As we were holding council together as to what should be done, a number of men appeared on the scene, each bearing one of the customary large beehive covered dishes, as a mona for our evening meal. They were instantly ordered to carry their dishes back to Ben Daoud, and inform him that we refused to stop in that house. They said they could not take away the food, as their orders were to leave it for us; but on the order being repeated in more imperative tones, they departed, most likely settling the difficulty by appropriating the mona between themselves and their friends. At this point Hooker’s knowledge of the Oriental character was conspicuously shown. If it be often true in the West that people are taken at their own valuation of themselves, this becomes an invariable rule among Eastern people. It was absolutely necessary for our eventual success that it should be understood that we were persons travelling by the express authority of our own Government, and entitled to all respect from the officers of the Moorish Sultan, however high their position might be. Were we to allow ourselves to be treated as mere private persons recommended to their good offices, there was an end to all hope of breaking down the barriers by which national prejudice and ancient tradition had closed the interior of the country against the intrusion of strangers. Had we even given way for a single day, the ingenuity of the natives would have found abundant pretexts for evading our demands; it was much easier to refuse the proffered lodging at once than to give a good reason why we could not spend a second night in a house where we had passed the first.

A messenger was despatched to Ben Daoud. ‘Tell the Governor,’ said Hooker, ‘that my Sultana gives me a large house with a garden to live in; hospitality would require that the Governor of Marocco should provide me—the guest of his Sultan—with a better house; but, in any case, I shall not live in a worse one.’ In a short time the messenger returned with the answer: ‘The Governor has no better house to give the Christians; but Marocco is large, and they are welcome to provide for themselves!’ It was then immediately decided to camp out for the night; and the better to mark our sense of the reception given us, it was at first proposed to pitch our tents outside the walls. From this, however, we were dissuaded. In such a position, apparently deprived of the protection of the local authorities, we should certainly, it was said, be attacked by robbers, from whom our Mogador escort might not prove a secure defence. It was finally decided that our best course would be to encamp in the great open space beside the chief mosque and tower of the Koutoubia. Our men had been ordered not to unload the baggage, so we were immediately under way. In the twilight the filth and abjectness of all that met the eye were not so glaringly prominent as before; but as we rode through more streets and lanes and open spaces, we saw no single building of the slightest pretension, until we entered the great square, at the farther end of which is the tower of the Koutoubia, the solitary specimen of architecture of which the ancient capital can boast.

The daylight was fading fast, but enough remained to show that the spot of our encampment was anything but inviting. Go where we would the ground was covered with refuse of every kind, full of scorpion holes, and swarming with insects, of which the most abundant and unsightly, though the least mischievous, were very large black Coleoptera, distant relatives of our European cockroaches, and the whole space was bordered by a ditch or open drain that reeked with foul exhalations. Meanwhile, we had sent the captain of our escort with a message to Muley Hassan, the Viceroy, informing him of our resolution to encamp in our own tents, until a suitable house had been provided for us. A civil answer was returned, expressing a wish that we should not camp out, and saying that he had sent orders to Ben Daoud immediately to provide us a suitable residence. Soon after came a polite message from El Graoui, expressing his regret that we had not been lodged to our satisfaction, and forwarding a letter that he had addressed to Ben Daoud on the subject. Nearly an hour passed, when at last a final answer came from Ben Daoud, saying that it was then too late to comply with our wishes, but that on the following morning we should have a good house with a garden.

During all this time we had remained grimly sitting on horseback, no way anxious, until it should be quite necessary, to commit ourselves for the night to the unpleasant accompaniments that surrounded us; but there was no longer any choice, and the order was given to pitch the large tent and unload the baggage.

During the interval we had been much struck by the demeanour of the people, who had from time to time passed by as we stood grouped together in this most public place of the city. Whether in obedience to orders, or from a spontaneous desire to display their utter indifference as to the doings of the infidels, no one paid the slightest attention, or even turned a head to notice us or our proceedings. Even the very boys engaged in some rough play when we first arrived on the square showed the same ostentatious disregard—in striking contrast to the eager curiosity of the Arab children in Algeria and the East, who will sit for hours together watching every movement of European travellers. By this time, however, the night had closed in, and the great square was silent and dark before our large tent was pitched and the baggage brought under cover.

Soon after there appeared a train of men bearing dishes—the evening mona—along with twenty-four soldiers sent by El Graoui to guard our camp during the night, and about half-past 9 we were able to get the rather long delayed evening meal and discuss our further prospects and proceedings. While thus engaged the sound of angry voices outside the tent interrupted conversation; it was evident that a violent altercation was going on, in which many voices took part. When all was again quiet, we ascertained the cause of the row. Ten soldiers sent by Ben Daoud as a guard for the night had come to take their places round the camp, when they found the ground already occupied. El Graoui’s men warned them off, telling them they had no business there, and when the others insisted on remaining to carry out their master’s orders the first comers threatened to thrash them if they did not immediately depart. Peace was re-established when Ben Daoud’s men retired to the farther end of the square behind the great mosque.

When we came to talk over the varied experiences of the day, we first of all agreed that, old travellers as we all were, and familiar with the squalor of Oriental cities, we none of us had ever known, or even imagined, the existence of a large town so expressive of human degradation, so utterly foul and repulsive, as this wherein we found ourselves. Of all the places commonly visited by travellers Jerusalem is perhaps that which at the first moment approaches nearest to the same impression; but, not to speak of the numerous important buildings and the associations connected with them, nor yet of the modern structures that have arisen during the last half-century, the poorest quarters of Jerusalem are far from rivalling the universal squalor and hideousness of all that meets the eye in Marocco. A ruinous house, with windows closed by weather-beaten rickety lattice-work, is not a beautiful object, but it may be sometimes picturesque, and, at the worst, is far better than a dead wall of crumbling mud, such as here meets the eye on every side. It would seem as if the most miserable suburbs of all the other towns of North Africa and Western Asia had been collected together and enclosed within a lofty wall, so that seen from without the whole might be palmed off on mankind as the effigy of a great city.

On deliberating over the events of the evening in relation to our own future prospects, we found reason to think that what had happened did not necessarily bode ill for the objects of our expedition. A fierce rivalry, as we knew, already existed between El Graoui and Ben Daoud, men whose power and influence in the State were supposed to be of equal weight. Whether to gratify his own feelings, or because he so understood the intentions of the Sultan, Ben Daoud had showed himself unfriendly, while El Graoui had clearly declared himself on our side. But as Ben Daoud had no authority whatever in the Atlas valleys, his enmity could do us no real harm; while El Graoui, whose opposition alone was to be feared, might easily be carried farther than he would have otherwise gone on our behalf for the mere pleasure of thereby spiting his rival. In this way our visit came to play a certain part in the interior politics of Marocco, and the serio-comic development of the story acquires a share of interest from the light it throws on native character.

Some time after midnight, after finishing our customary task in laying out our collections of the day, which had been much smaller than usual, we sallied out to view the surrounding scene. The moon stood high in the cloudless sky, wherein there was so little vapour that the stars seemed scarcely dimmed by her brilliancy. The great tower, stark against the black vault, appeared gigantic in its proportions as it looked down on the strange scene below. The noises of the city—even the howling of the dogs—were for the moment completely stilled; our camels, horses, mules, and asses lay resting after their day’s work, and amongst them the sleeping figures of our men, wrapped up in white haïks or jellabias, looked weird and ghostly in the moonlight. The distinctness with which we heard the occasional whispers of the guards around our camp served only to make the deep silence of the night the more impressive.

On this night the advantages of a tent of what is known as the Alpine Club pattern, where the floor is made of canvas continuous with the sides, and the entrance is closed by a flap rising about a foot from the ground, were shown in a striking way. In the great tent, where the ground underfoot was pierced with scorpion holes and swarming with insects, Hooker and Maw did not venture to undress, and had to pass the night perched upon the baggage, while Ball was able to spread his mattress regardless of the creatures that might be moving about under the canvas floor. When his tent was struck next morning the ground underneath was absolutely covered with a continuous mass of creeping things, yet not a single insect entered the tent.

When we all rose betimes on the morning of the 4th, we felt that this must be a decisive day in our contest with the Moorish authorities. At an early hour Hooker despatched two messengers, one to the Viceroy, requesting an interview, the other to Mr. Hunot, begging him to use his local knowledge and influence to make sure that the request should reach the Viceroy. Soon after arrived a message from Ben Daoud, saying that we were at liberty to pitch our tents in an adjoining garden. If that offer had been made on our first arrival, it is most likely that it would have been accepted; but, as it was now clear that Ben Daoud was intent on yielding as little as possible, Hooker wisely resolved to insist on the demand which he had made on the previous evening, and returned an answer in nearly the same terms as before.

At 8 A.M. a morning meal of wheaten cakes and milk came from El Graoui, and throughout that and the following days he continued to supply our wants and those of our followers on the most liberal scale. Besides a light breakfast, three copious meals with meat and vegetables cooked in the most approved style, accompanied by dates and oranges, were regularly furnished; and the addition of a mule-load of oranges that came later in the day furnished in abundance the most acceptable luxury that nature affords in this region.

It was clear that the question debated among the Marocco authorities as to the best way of dealing with the troublesome Christian visitors was considered a rather knotty one, for fully two hours elapsed before our Mogador kaïd returned with the Viceroy’s answer. We were welcome to Marocco, he said, and he had ordered the palace of Ben Dreis, with the adjoining garden, to be prepared for our reception. That building belonged, it was added, to his father, the Sultan, and not to the Governor of Marocco, so that we should consider the use of it as a mark of the personal favour and friendship of the Sultan. The request for an interview was evaded, probably to avoid any further demands that may have been apprehended; but we had obtained a complete victory, and had nothing more to ask so far as our stay in Marocco was concerned.

Although the sequel of the story was not unfolded till a day or two later, it may as well be here given. Si Boubikir, one of our Moorish friends who had interested himself on our behalf, was sent for by the Viceroy, and at the same time Ben Daoud was also summoned. The latter was addressed by the Viceroy in the coarsest terms: ‘You dog! you slave! you son of a slave! how have you dared to neglect my father’s orders? Were you not ordered to provide a suitable residence for these English gentlemen?’ With further additions of threats and abuse. On the following day (after we had paid our visit to El Graoui) a person sent by Ben Daoud came to Abraham, our interpreter, to express a hope that we should also pay a visit to the Governor of the city in token of reconciliation. He was to assure us that Ben Daoud was no way to blame for anything that had happened, as he had acted throughout by the express orders of the Viceroy, who had desired him to begin by offering the smaller house, then one somewhat larger, and to leave it to the Viceroy to meet our demands, if we persisted in asking for a house with a garden. It was quite impossible to guess how much or how little truth there might be in this tale, and how far the scene got up before Si Boubikir was a mere comedy; but it is characteristic of the country, that it should not be considered improbable. Hooker decided that it was not expedient to overlook the affronts of which Ben Daoud was either the author or the instrument, and his message was met by a curt refusal.

The house or palace of Ben Dreis, which we were to inhabit, originally belonged to a powerful minister, whose property, after the custom of the country, had been confiscated by the sovereign. In 1864 it was occupied by Sir Moses Montefiore; and a correct sketch of it is given in Dr. Hodgkin’s narrative of that gentleman’s mission of benevolence to Marocco.

We were told that a short time would be required to prepare the house for our reception, and it turned out that the first requisite step was to knock down the wall that stood where the entrance had formerly been. A house in which Jews or Christians had lived was regarded as unclean and unfit for the dwelling of a true believer, and accordingly after the departure of Sir M. Montefiore, the entrance had been walled up, and the house had so remained ever since. When the way had been cleared, an escort of soldiers, despatched by the Viceroy, accompanied us to our new dwelling, which stands inside its walled garden very near to the Bab Roub—the gate by which we yesterday entered the city. We were agreeably surprised when we approached by far the finest house which we anywhere saw in this country, a massive square building, entered by a Moorish arch. As usual, the ground-floor rooms, with the central court, roofed in, contrary to the usual practice, were fit only for servants, or for stabling animals and storing goods, and the best apartments were on the upper floor. These were, of course, destined for us. But the first glance showed that in a country where animal, and especially insect, life is so active, the rooms in their present state would be no pleasant habitations. This, however, was foreseen and provided for, and, before many minutes were over, a crowd of men, including our own attendants, were hard at work carrying up large vessels of water from the irrigation stream in the adjoining garden, and armed with rough brooms, with which to complete the work of cleaning the premises. Water was turned on in such abundance as to stand ankle deep in most of the rooms, and pour in a copious stream down the staircases and other openings. When all was done the blazing sun soon dried all up, and during our stay we suffered no inconvenience, and scarcely saw any insects, except a few harmless beetles. When the rooms had been thus cleansed and dried, we proceeded to instal ourselves in our new quarters. There was a large central room, open to the sky in the middle, with roofed bays or recesses around, and several adjoining, which served as bedrooms. The terrace roof, overlooking the trees of our garden and the city wall, commanded a magnificent view of the Great Atlas range, and in the early morning, and towards sunset, afforded an unfailing attraction.

During this and the following days much time was consumed in long discussions respecting our future plans and arrangements. During the remainder of his stay in Marocco Mr. Hunot was kind enough to devote most of his time to us, and in his visits he was generally accompanied by Si Mohammed Hassanowe and Si Boubikir, who sat gravely by, rarely taking any part in the conversation. One of the subjects requiring mature consideration related to the manner in which the objects of our journey might best be made intelligible and satisfactory to the Moorish authorities. The matter had already been under discussion at Mogador and during our journey, but its importance was now much more obvious when it was clear that our farther progress would depend on the view that El Graoui might take of our character and intentions. We were well aware that anything so simple as the statement that the object was to gratify our curiosity as to the vegetation of the Great Atlas, would at once be set aside as a false pretext, intended to cover some sinister design. That one man should be crazy enough to make a long journey for such a purpose might have been thought within the range of possibility; but to suppose that three should all at once be smitten with the same form of insanity was plainly too ridiculous. To endeavour to explain that Hooker, as Director of a great national establishment such as Kew Gardens, should be anxious to enrich it by the introduction of new, rare, or useful plants, was not likely to be more successful. The existence of any public institution having a claim to attention apart from the personal will or caprice of the sovereign could not be made intelligible to the native mind. It was clear that if we did not present ourselves as persons in some way carrying out the direct orders of the Queen of England, we should have no claim to respect, and should be regarded as adventurers prompted by some motive we did not care to avow.

Of course, we felt a natural reluctance to use the Queen’s name in an unauthorised way; but, without entering into subtle discussion as to the extent to which the acts of ministers are to be regarded as those of the sovereign, the fact that the Foreign Secretary had, through the Queen’s representative, applied for the Sultan’s permission for Hooker’s journey, undoubtedly justified him in assuming a position different from that of an ordinary traveller. It is true that the knowledge and personal interest which Her Majesty has always shown in matters relating to Art have never been publicly displayed in reference to natural history; but it would certainly not be straining the truth to let it be understood that such a unique institution as the Royal Gardens at Kew is regarded by her with sympathy and favour. The most natural way of conveying this to the Moorish mind seemed to be to say that the Sultana of England had great gardens, in which were plants from all the countries in the world, excepting the Great Atlas, and that she had sent Hooker and his assistants to collect and send home whatever new plants they could find there. To this suggestion, a serious objection was made. It would appear unworthy of a great ruler, we were told, to trouble herself about anything so frivolous as a garden: ‘Her thoughts must be engaged in the government of her vast dominions, and above all in the management of her armies and fleets, and not on mere matters of amusement.’ ‘But,’ as it was urged, ‘there is one use of plants that every one can understand. Cannot you say that you are seeking for herbs useful to cure diseases, and are charged to bring these home to the Queen of England?’ Of course it was true that if by any chance such new plants as we might find possessed medicinal qualities, they would thereby acquire additional interest, and, therefore, in our numerous subsequent communications with the authorities, Hooker stated that his commission was to collect and bring home the plants of the country, and especially those useful in medicine. It is pretty certain, however, that the imagination of our interpreter enlarged upon this text, to what extent we could not of course say. How much that we afterwards heard was serious, and how much more play of fancy, it is hard to guess; but there is no doubt that the current belief among our own followers was that the Sultana of England had heard that there was somewhere in Marocco a plant that would make her live for ever, and that she had sent her own hakim to find it for her. When, in the course of our journey, it was seen that our botanical pursuits entailed rather severe labour, the commentary was: ‘The Sultana of England is a severe woman, and she has threatened to give them stick (the bastinado) if they do not find the herb she wants!’

It was impossible to decide on our future route until after an interview with El Graoui; but whatever that might be, it was certain that we should require a number of animals to convey ourselves and our baggage; and we yielded to the general opinion of the country in preferring mules for this purpose. Camels are unfit for the rough mountain paths; and the mule is decidedly superior to the horse in endurance of prolonged fatigue, inferior food, and vicissitudes of climate. In a journey of some length it is decidedly economical to purchase horses and mules rather than hire them; and we resolved to supply a part of our wants in that way, Mr. Hunot being good enough to undertake to choose eight mules, for which on the following day we paid 8l. each.

The current coin in South Marocco we found to be French five-franc pieces (called by Europeans, dollars) for all except small transactions. These are carried on by Moorish silver pieces, worth respectively something less than four pence and two pence, and little coins of an alloy of copper and zinc, called flous, of which about fifteen go to an English penny. It was necessary to provide our interpreter, Abraham, with bags of these coins to defray the trifling expenses of our journey. It being understood that the provision of food for our followers and the animals of our train would be undertaken by the local authorities, wherever we should go, the only serious expenses we had to provide for were the purchase or hire of mules, and such gratuities as we might think proper to distribute amongst our escort and our servants on our return to Mogador. For presents to governors, sheiks, and others whom it might be desirable to conciliate or reward, we had brought with us a supply which turned out to be more than sufficient for the purpose.

To pass a quiet evening in our own house, free from any immediate cause for trouble, and with the prospect of a good night’s rest, such as we had not known since we left Mogador, was an enjoyment keenly felt; and though our quarters were absolutely devoid of furniture of any kind, the mere sense of quiet and freedom from intrusion made them seem to us perfectly luxurious. The position of our dwelling was indeed admirably chosen. Completely separated from the inhabited quarters of the city, with their noises and their stenches, by large gardens and high walls, the only building within our view was the great tower of the Koutoubia. Some idea of the effect as seen through one of our windows is given in the accompanying woodcut. It is very similar in design and dimensions to the Giralda at Seville and the great tower at Rabat, and like these is said to have been built by Christian captives. Including the lanthorn at the top, the height is about 270 feet. It is a singular proof of the deficiency of the Moors in constructive faculty, that the only stone structures in this, the ancient capital of the country, once the abode of wealth and barbaric luxury, should be this tower, and the great arch forming the entrance to the Sultan’s palace, of which the carved stones were transported piece by piece from Spain.

The morning of May 5 presented the unusual appearance of heavy clouds covering the sky and concealing from view the range of the Great Atlas. This did not last long. The sun soon reasserted his dominion over the plain, though the clouds still hung round the higher peaks. The direct heat of the sun was already great at this season, but the air was always relatively cool. In the shade of our rooms the thermometer marked about 80° Fahr. during the warmer hours of the day, and fell to about 70° at night.

It was a matter of some interest to us to study the spontaneous vegetation of the gardens of Marocco. We could without difficulty have obtained permission to visit the very extensive gardens that occupy the larger part of the enclosed space surrounding the palace of the Sultan; but we decided that we should be able to work more effectually, and without risk of exciting the suspicions of the natives, by confining ourselves to the rather large space surrounding our own dwelling. To the English reader it may be well to remark that, in Marocco, as in most Eastern countries, a garden means something very different from what we understand by it at home. So far as any idea of enjoyment is connected with it the paramount object is shade and coolness. Trees, and running water, without which in this climate few trees will grow, are therefore the essential requisites. Beyond this the Moor, if he be rich and luxurious, may plant a few sweet-scented flowers, of which the rose, violet, jessamine, and Acacia Farnesiana are most prized; but beyond this, no mere pleasure of the eye is ever dreamt of, and here, as elsewhere, there seems to be among the natives a complete want of the sense of beauty.

To the Moor the chief object of a garden is not pleasure but profit. In this admirable climate nearly all the vegetable products of the temperate and subtropical zones may be had in profusion wherever water is attainable, and of this the Great Atlas provides an unfailing supply to the city and its neighbourhood. Even at the low prices of the country, fruits are the most profitable of all crops; and it is asserted that the Aguidel Garden—the largest of those within the palace enclosure—containing about forty English acres, produces on an average 20,000l. a year.

The fruit-bearing trees planted in our garden were the date-palm, orange, olive, fig, pomegranate, apricot, almond, pear, apple, and mulberry, along with a few vines. Besides these were cypresses, willows (Salix babylonica), aspens, Robinia, Melia, and Celtis.

There were several tall bushes of Acacia Farnesiana, just coming into fruit, and of white jessamine. The only cultivated flowers were the rose, Mirabilis, and hollyhock, and a large-leaved variety of sweet violet, which has also been found in Madeira. Of wild arborescent plants we noted only Zizyphus Lotus and Lonicera biflora; the latter species (peculiar to North Africa) we observed here and there throughout our journey. Although the list of wild herbaceous plants includes few that are not common throughout the Mediterranean region, it may interest some readers to give it in full. Specimens of nearly all the species enumerated were preserved by us.

List of Plants growing wild in the Garden of Ben Dreis, in the City of Marocco. Those marked (*) are British species.

*	Papaver Rhœas, L.		Leontodon hispidulus, Boiss.
*	Fumaria parviflora, Lam.		Sonchus maritimus, L.
	——— agraria, Lag.	*	——— oleraceus, L.
*	Sisymbrium Irio, L.	*	Convolvulus arvensis, L.
	——— erysimoides, Dsf.		Solanum villosum, Lam.
	Brassica geniculata, (Dsf.)		Withania somnifera, (Link.)
*	Capsella Bursa-pastoris, L.		Hyoscyamus albus, L.
	Lepidium sativum, L.		Cynoglossum pictum, Ait.
*	Viola odorata, L., var.		Verbascum sinuatum, L.
	Frankenia pulverulenta, L.		Linaria græca, Chav.
	Spergularia diandra, (Guss.)		Scrophularia auriculata, L., var.
	Lavatera cretica, L.	*	Veronica anagallis, L.
	Malva parviflora, All.	*	Marrubium vulgare, L.
	——— nicæensis, All.	*	Verbena officinalis, L.
*	Erodium moschatum, (L.)	*	Beta vulgaris, Moq.
	——— malacoides, (L.)		Chenopodium ambrosioides, L.
*	Oxalis corniculata, L.	*	——— murale, L.
	Zizyphus Lotus, L.	*	——— album, L.
	Medicago pentacycla, D.C.	*	Rumex crispus, L.
*	Trifolium resupinatum, L.	*	——— pulcher, L.
	Lotus arenarius, Brot.	*	Polygonum aviculare, L.
	Lythrum flexuosum, Lag.		Euphorbia pubescens, Vapl.
	Bryonia acuta, Dsf.	*	——— peplus, L.
*	Conium maculatum, L.	*	Mercurialis annua, L.
*	Apium nodiflorum, (L.)	*	Urtica dioica, L., var.
	Ammi majus, L.	*	Parietaria officinalis, L., var.
	Carum Petroselinum, (L.)	*	Typha angustifolia, L.?
*	Caucalis nodosa, (L.)	*	Cyperus longus, L.
*	——— infesta, (L.)		Phalaris minor, Retz.
	Lonicera biflora, Dsf.		Piptatherum multiflorum, P.B.
*	Galium Aparine, L.		Agrostis verticillata, Vill.
*	Gnaphalium luteo-album, L.	*	Cynodon dactylon, L.
	Anacyclus Valentinus, L.	*	Poa annua, L.
	Chrysanthemum coronarium, L.		Kœleria phleoides, Pers.
	Senecio gallicus, Chaix, var.		Cynosurus aureus, (L.)
	Calendula stellata, Cav.?	*	Festuca rigida, (L.)
	Carduus myriacanthus, Salzm.?		Brachypodium distachyon, (L.)
	Onopordon illyricum, L.	*	Bromus madritensis, L.
	Picris pilosa, Del.	*	——— mollis, L.
	Leontodon Rothii (Thrincia hispida, Rth.)		——— macrostachys, Dsf., var.
		*	Hordeum murinum, L.

This list affords a fair illustration of the general uniformity of what may be termed the ruderal vegetation throughout the Mediterranean region. Of 81 species enumerated there are but four (Brassica geniculata, Lonicera biflora, Picris pilosa, and Leontodon hispidulus) that do not extend to Southern Europe; fully one-half are found in Northern France and Germany; and 37 are included in the British flora.

About 4 P.M. we started by previous appointment to pay our visit to El Graoui. The usual course in this country is to make the first visit to a man in authority one of pure ceremony, wherein presents are made that are intended to prepare the way for any serious business, which is reserved for a second interview; but the necessity for deciding without delay on our future plans, which depended altogether on the consent and assistance of El Graoui, forbade this dilatory mode of proceeding, and it was decided that we should go at once thoroughly into the subject of our intended journey. This was a proud day for our interpreter, Abraham. While, in spite of some concessions made to Sir Moses Montefiore, his coreligionists in the city are forced to put off their shoes when they leave their own enclosure, Abraham, rejoicing in a pair of gamboge leather boots, could enter with head erect the presence of the most powerful subject in Marocco. Preceded by several mounted soldiers, we passed, by the same filthy roads as before, through the great gate leading to the palace. Perhaps the sight of a stately procession irritated the feelings of the people; certainly there was on this occasion no doubt as to the disposition of the bystanders, made sufficiently clear by muttered curses and spitting towards us, and even by a few stones thrown in the same direction, though scarcely intended to reach us.

The walled space which surrounds the dwelling of the sovereign appeared to be a nearly regular square, of which the sides measure about half a mile. Besides the residence of the Sultan, rarely inhabited of late years, and the extensive ranges of mean irregular buildings used by his attendants and body-guard, another block of buildings served as the dwelling of his son, the then Viceroy; and a third group, to which we proceeded, was the home of El Graoui, who thus avoided the inconvenience of inhabiting a place subject to the authority of his rival, Ben Daoud. We saw no building of the slightest architectural pretensions, or at all comparable to the house in which we ourselves were lodged. Through narrow tortuous passages, amidst low buildings, scarcely more than ten feet high, and of the meanest appearance, we reached a whitewashed building of two floors, and through a narrow door and passage were ushered up a short flight of steps into a small room, wherein sat a stout man of completely black complexion, whose broad countenance gave the impression of considerable energy with an habitual expression of good-humoured ferocity. The room was decorated with woodwork, cut into elaborate geometrical patterns and painted in bright colours, the only form of decorative art known to the Moors, and lighted by a lanthorn overhead through small bits of coloured glass. We seated ourselves on the carpet-covered cushions ranged on either side, and a few of the ordinary phrases of courtesy, familiar to all readers who have made a tour in the East, were exchanged. Presently, on a signal from the great man, the inevitable green tea was served in English china tea-cups, followed by a slight refection, the air of the room being meanwhile perfumed with the heavy scent of incense burned over charcoal.

After this, we, without further preface, commenced conversation as to the object of our journey, taking care to adhere as nearly as possible to the line of discourse previously fixed upon. Having in general terms explained that we wanted to collect the plants of the high mountains, Hooker was careful to add that we did not care about stones or minerals. We had been warned that the belief in the existence of precious metals in the Atlas is traditional in the country; and though no ruler of Marocco is known to have made any effort to search for or work mines, extreme jealousy is felt lest strangers should be attracted by the prospect, and attempt, in consequence, to establish themselves in the country. In point of fact, we were obliged to refrain from any overt attempt to collect even the commonest rocks, and the fragments which we carried away were picked up and pocketed—as by stealth—when removed from the watchful eyes of our followers.

El Graoui, with apparent frankness and good-humour, said that he should have much pleasure in carrying into effect the intentions of the Sultan in our regard, and that we should have full liberty to go where we pleased in the portions of the Great Atlas where the authority of the Sultan is recognised, orders being given that the local authorities should provide food for us and our followers. This brought us at once to a question of pressing importance. Up to this moment we had no notion as to the limits that might be set to our journey by the Marocco authorities, though too well aware that Hooker’s engagements in England would not under any circumstances allow us to carry our explorations very far. In answer to our inquiries, we were told that we were free to travel on the northern slope of the mountains that send their waters to the plain of Marocco. The names of various districts were mentioned, several of which were strange to our ears, and not to be found on any map; but we retained those of Glaoui, Ourika, and Reraya, the latter two being afterwards familiar to us. Further than this, we were informed that we might travel eastward through the provinces of Demenet and Ntifa, both apparently high mountain regions, whose waters run northward to the Oum-er-bia. We were emphatically told that we must not attempt to cross the chain southward in the direction of the Sous valley, and we gave a distinct promise to abstain from doing so. The actual decision as to our future route was far too important a matter to be disposed of on the spot by men so imperfectly prepared as we necessarily were, and it was arranged that Hooker should, in the course of the next day or two, acquaint El Graoui with the route which we might adopt.

The main point being thus settled, some further conversation ensued as to the arrangements for our journey. El Graoui informed us that he would send an escort of five soldiers under the command of a Kaïd, and further suggested that the escort that had already accompanied us from Mogador should remain with us throughout the journey. As it seemed desirable to humour the great man’s fancies, the latter arrangement was at once agreed to, and in the sequel we found it decidedly advantageous. The interview was brought to a close by Hooker presenting to El Graoui a pair of excellent, though not showy, rifled pistols, which he had brought from England under the impression that they might be useful for personal defence. We had an unnecessarily large store of articles intended for presents—silver watches, musical boxes, opera glasses, cutlery, and the like; but, on reviewing our stores, Mr. Hunot decided that such objects would be thought too paltry for a man of El Graoui’s importance, and that serviceable fire-arms would be far better suited to his taste.