The face is a complete index of the life of the individual written large, so that he who runs may read. By looking at the condition of the skin and the whites of the eyes we can judge very fairly of the digestion. From the dulness or brilliancy of the eyes we can make a very good diagnosis of the mental condition. From the general expression of the face we can read the kind of life that has been led by the individual, whether of pleasure, dissipation, or sorrow.

From greatest antiquity men and women have striven to beautify their bodies. To be indifferent to the personal appearance is an indication of some abnormal condition in the individual or her environment.

The Complexion.—The skin of the face is known as the complexion, and this is the part of the skin that is most exposed to the vicissitudes of dust and grime of the streets or of the occupation, as well as to heat, cold, and winds.

An ideal complexion combines the qualities of clearness, translucency, and fineness of the outer skin, with a proper disposition of the blood-supply.

The beauty of the skin is evidence of good respiration, good digestion, proper excretion by the bowels, skin, and kidneys, good condition of the blood, and plenty of outdoor exercise.

It is now well known that the skin, as well as other parts of the body, depends for its integrity upon the general nervous system. Disturbance anywhere in the body acts upon the central nervous system. A simple case of indigestion often manifests itself over considerable areas of the skin.

It cannot be too earnestly impressed on the reader that beauty is entirely dependent on the health. It will readily be seen that no external applications can produce such qualities as fineness of texture, translucency, and delicate play of coloring produced by the contraction and dilatation of the blood-vessels.

The natural order in which to consider the skin will be first as subservient to health, and then as it is conducive to beauty.

The Action of the Bath in Health.—Not only in the art of pleasing, but in the maintenance of health, neatness of person must be carried to perfection. By the use of friction, soap and water, the scarf-skin becomes more and more constantly renewed by the layers underneath it. It becomes softer, more pliant, and finer than satin in appearance and texture. Besides this, as has already been shown, bathing has upon the corium or true skin, and thence upon the general system, a revitalizing influence. Combined with the proper kinds of soap, avoiding the use of irritating ones, bathing removes from the skin all effete oily matters, scales of the scarf-skin, crusts, the saline matters excreted by the perspiration, dust of all kinds, soot, particularly that from the clothing, and so forth.

Caustic soaps and borax in excess may remove the oil in so great quantities as to be detrimental to the skin.

Within twenty-four hours the skin, especially those parts which are covered, becomes vested with a pellicle of impurities, which, when allowed to remain, become thicker every day, and may produce injurious effects by obstructing the excretory openings and affording lodgement for disease. The effects would be felt not only in the skin, but in the whole organism. The skin when not cleansed will be irritated chemically and mechanically.

The Proper Time to Bathe.—This depends on the nature of the bath to be taken, the strength of the woman, the temperature of the room, and the season of the year.

To repeat, a cold bath of any description must never be taken unless the body has a decided sensation of warmth. In winter, if she will drink a glass of hot water before rising and has a warm room, the woman in average health may take a cold sponge bath. But the body must be very gradually trained to the application of cold, just as it is to vigorous muscular exercise. For the woman who has never in her life taken a cold bath of any sort, except in midsummer, to begin a heroic treatment with cold baths in winter would be utter folly, which might easily be the cause of pneumonia and even of death. The time to begin a systematic use of cold water is in summer, continued through the autumn, and by the time midwinter has arrived, the system has become so toned up that nothing but good can result.

If the woman is not very strong, she had better begin with the cold ablutions, just to the waist, on rising in the morning. These must always be followed by a vigorous toweling and friction. In case of inflammation of the kidneys or pelvic viscera, cold applications to the abdomen should be avoided, as they are badly borne.

If the woman is anemic, has a poor circulation, or is conscious of her heart, she will feel at her best in the afternoon. In that case, after a cup of hot bouillon, taken on rising from her siesta, she may take a quick hot scrub, followed by a cold shower. This is much more invigorating than the cold ablution, and the reaction at that time of the day is more vigorous than in the early morning.

From the simple ablution, the next step in training would be the cold wet sheet. It is impossible to take this without an attendant, but a good maid may readily be taught to give the necessary rubbing. Ordinarily, this will be enough to attempt in one winter.

A strong woman, who has always been accustomed to taking cold baths, may all the year round, except just before, during, and immediately after the menstrual period, take a cold dip on rising in the morning. It must be literally a quick dip in a tubful of cold water, from 65° to 55° F., or, if she is sufficiently strong to stay in the tub longer, there must be a constant brisk friction kept up while in the water.

It is permitted only a woman in good health, with a strong heart and normal kidneys, to get into a tub of cold water, take a cold plunge, or attempt sea-bathing.

For the woman who is a semi-invalid, the only time allowable for a cold tonic bath is in the afternoon.

In cold weather the shower, like all other forms of baths, must be taken in a warm room. The shower bath can be taken every day to the greatest possible advantage. An ideal way is to rest for half an hour on coming home in the afternoon; to sleep, if possible, then take a quick scrub, and follow it first by the hot shower of 100° to 104° F., and finish with the cold shower. A brisk rubbing should be kept up until the skin is in a good healthy glow. This bath is followed by a feeling of great exhilaration, and it gives a beautiful glow to the face and skin. It removes the tired feeling of the day’s work, and leaves one feeling greatly refreshed for the evening. A daily ablution or a daily shower, with friction, will not cause an undue removal of the oil of the skin. All cold baths, when given in suitable cases, tone up the system to resist disease, and are the best preventives against ordinary colds and sore throat.

A hot tub-bath is best taken at night just before retiring. In winter it must never be taken immediately before going out-of-doors, because the pores of the skin are more or less open and there is great danger of chilling. A hot tub-bath, remaining in the bath for some minutes, should not be taken more than twice a week, as it is too debilitating, and a prolonged stay in the hot water causes an actual loss of flesh.

A woman may take a warm sponge bath in a warm room at any time of the month, but during the menstrual period she must, under no consideration, take a cold tub-bath or even a cold sponge-bath, since this would be apt to cause a chill of the surface of the body and a congestion, if not an actual inflammation, of the pelvic organs.

No bath should be taken within two hours after eating, as the bath draws the blood from the stomach toward the surface of the body and so interferes with digestion.

The Care of Wash-cloths.—After using each time, the wash-cloth must be thoroughly washed, well rinsed, and hung up to dry. But this is not sufficient: once every week all wash-cloths must be sent to the laundry to be boiled, thus insuring the destroying of any germs that may lurk in the cloth. If a woman has any kind of skin disease, it is quite possible for her to reinfect herself after the disease has apparently become cured. Further, each member of the family should have her own individual towels, soap, and wash-cloths. Aside from all sanitary questions, in a matter so intimate as the bath, there is something repulsive in the thought of having your toilet articles used by any one else.

A pure Castile soap is one of the best that can be used. All cheap scented soaps should be avoided, as they are apt to contain impure materials that will actually injure the skin. If the skin is rough, rubbing it with a good sand-soap, and rubbing the same on the flesh-brush, will remove many of the scales and leave the skin much smoother and softer. Medicated soaps should never be used except by the direction of a physician.

Cleansing the Face.—The face should be well washed twice a day with cool or cold water, but the temperature of the water should not be below 60° F. The degree of coolness must be determined by the feelings and judgment of the individual. If the face were washed with very hot or very cold water, and then exposed to the cold air, the skin would become rough and chapped. The water should be soft. To soften hard water, put 1 pound of bran into a muslin bag, place in 4 quarts of water, and boil for fifteen minutes. Add enough of this bran water to the bath to make the water milky.

A soft, woven face towel, kept for the face and neck only, should be used with a moderate degree of friction. Great care must be used to wipe the skin thoroughly dry.

It is a question whether the daily use of soap on the face is advisable; for the healthy skin it is not essential and may prove very injurious. Soap should never be used on the face in winter just before going out-of-doors, as this would cause a roughening of the skin. When the hot tub-bath is taken, the face should be well washed with soap and hot water, plenty of friction being applied by means of the face towel, after which the face is thoroughly rinsed with pure water. This will open the pores of the skin, and should be followed by the use of cold water, which has a stimulant action on the blood-vessels and improves the circulation in the skin. It also improves the tone of the elastic fibers in the skin and tends to delay the appearance of wrinkles.

If there is any tendency to dryness of the skin, a good cold cream should be well rubbed in just after bathing the face. The cream must be a good quality and perfectly fresh, as a rancid cream is irritating to the skin. Only so much of the cream should be applied as will be absorbed by the skin. When the skin is very thin, and there has been loss of subcutaneous fat due to ill health or other cause, the systematic application of cream in this manner aids in the nutrition of the skin; and, when applied to the neck with good massage, is a great protection against sore throat due to exposure to drafts and cold.

Protection of the Face.—The cold winds of winter cause a dryness of the uncovered skin of the face and lips, which often leads to a painful chapping, and, in the case of the lips, small fissures may be produced. In addition to the use of cold cream, a good rice powder may be applied, which serves as a further protection to the skin.

In very cold weather a veil should be worn to protect the face from the cold and winds. In summer a parasol should always be carried, to protect the eyes and brain as well as the face from the hot rays of the sun.

The Use of So-called Cosmetics for the Face.—All skin specialists, and these are in the very best position to judge of the great amount of harm that is done, say emphatically that the use of face lotions and “paints” can only work the lasting injury of the complexion. They may assist in hiding the defects of nature, but they frequently contribute to increase these defects. Many of them merely fill up the pores of the skin and give it a pasty look. Numerous cases of eczema and other diseases have followed the use of paints. Of the advertised cosmetics, many are not only worthless, but actually injurious.

Certain applications to the skin of the face are permissible and beneficial. “Virgin milk,” which is a milky-looking mixture, composed of the tincture of benzoin and rose-water, renders the skin soft, and is said to prevent the formation of freckles. If the skin is dry, glycerin may be added to this. The formula for this mixture is as follows: Take of the tincture of benzoin and glycerin each 1 ounce, mix well, and then add 2 ounces of rose-water. This should be applied by the fingers, just after the face is washed. Pure glycerin is irritating, and should never be applied to the face without dilution.

The various good preparations of rice and talcum powder on the market are perfectly harmless, and, if there is a tendency to greasiness or shininess of the skin, the use of these is essential from an esthetic point of view. In case of greasiness a little calcined magnesia may be used. In hot weather the use of face powder is very refreshing, and in the hot climates it is used for this purpose to a very striking extent. But the true cosmetics, and the only ones that can procure and keep a beautiful complexion, are plenty of exercise in the open air, attention to the diet, to the daily evacuation of the bowels, to the condition of the kidneys, to baths, and to proper dress.

Facial Blemishes.—Among the most common facial blemishes are freckles, liver spots, a sallow complexion, pimples, acne, eczema, superfluous hairs, and wrinkles.

Freckles.—These are brownish or yellowish pigmentary spots, varying from the size of a pin-head to that of a pea. They occur on the face and the backs of the hands. They consist of a circumscribed deposit of pigment; not much is known about their origin. The pigment is situated in the deep layers of the epidermis, and, in order to remove the freckles, it is necessary to use something capable of producing desquamation. As a rule, if left alone, they will gradually disappear.

Liver Spots.—The so-called liver spots are irregular patches of a brownish color, which appear most frequently on the face, neck, chest, back, arms, and hands. If not caused by disorders of the liver and digestion, they are certainly aggravated by them. They are not only unsightly blemishes on the skin, but sometimes cause great nervousness by the intense itching which accompanies them.

Sallow Complexion.—This is generally caused by disorders of the liver, and is most frequently met with in hot countries. It is seen in chronic dyspeptics, and, indeed, in most forms of chronic disease, and is not only a symptom of the disordered bodily state, but a cause of its perpetuation. This appearance of the skin is due to the accumulation of effete matters in it and to its impaired nutrition, and this state exists not only in the skin, but in the whole body.

Pimples, or Blackheads, and Acne.—These are affections of youth, and are generally seen together, the last-named being simply a second stage of the first. Pimples, or blackheads, appear as small elevations in the skin, with a small black point in the center. The cause of the pimple is the alteration in the quality of the sebum, the oily secretion, which becomes and remains a hard mass in the excretory ducts of the sebaceous glands and plugs up its external opening. The dust of the air becomes mixed with the fat, and thus makes a black point. When the ducts cannot get rid of the sebum, they become stopped up, and in consequence become swollen. This irritation spreads to the adjacent tissues, and so inflammation arises. Finally, the contents of the duct undergo degeneration, suppuration occurs, and the contents become mixed with pus, small abscesses result at various depths in the skin, and so require more or less time to break out.

This inflammatory condition of the sebaceous glands with their ducts is apt to become chronic and may prove an obstinate affection. It occurs most commonly about the face, on the back between the shoulders, or on the chest. The skin is rough to the touch, the ducts of the sebaceous glands are enlarged, and the skin is greasy.

Eczema.—This is the most common of all skin affections. It is a non-contagious, inflammatory disease of the skin, sometimes acute, but more often chronic, attended with itching and desquamation or loss of cuticle. With the itching may be a feeling of heat and tension in the part.

Eczema is a local disease, brought about by a local irritation in the skin; but, in addition to this, there is generally a predisposing cause, as some disorders of the digestive tract, a bad condition of the blood, and so forth. The skin, like other organs of the body, depends on the whole system for its nutrition. When this nutrition is not sufficient, the skin appears pale, of a peculiar color, and is easily taken up in folds, an evidence of poor nutrition of the skin. When the skin is not properly nourished, every slight irritation is liable to produce eczema.

Treatment of Liver Spots, Sallow Complexion, Pimples, Acne, and Eczema.—First, the general treatment. While every case of skin disease must be treated according to the peculiarities of that patient’s case, still, there are general rules which should be followed in the treatment of all cases, and first in importance comes attention to the bowels. There must be procured, by some means or other, a free daily evacuation. A hard, constipated movement is not sufficient. Fruits and vegetables are both laxatives and the very best. Water is also a laxative, and 3 pints a day should be taken, not only for the laxative effects, but also because this amount is needed to keep the kidneys properly flushed. Of the simple medicinal laxatives, one of the best is the effervescing granules of the phosphate of soda; the dose is from one teaspoonful to one tablespoonful, to be taken in a glass of cold water on rising in the morning. Sometimes patients who are troubled with gas cannot take anything which effervesces; in that case, the plain phosphate of soda may be substituted.

Next in importance to the attention to the bowels comes the diet. All articles of diet must be easily digested, while at the same time they are nourishing. Cereals, pies, pastry, fried foods, hot breads, rich gravies, rich salads, pork, and veal must be excluded from the bill of fare.

Fresh meat must be eaten by a woman in health at least once a day, and young girls need it twice a day. This should be supplemented with eggs and milk, fresh vegetables, and not an excess of stale bread or toast. The latter is constipating. Tea and coffee should both be avoided.

A glass of hot water, taken one hour before meals, will do much to rid the stomach of mucus and put it in a good condition for the digestion of the food.

For the congestion of the liver, which is so often at the bottom of these disorders, it is generally necessary to consult a physician.

Pure air, associated with the proper kinds of exercise, promotes the functions of the skin, assists in keeping the blood in good condition, increases the vigor, keeps the complexion clear and increases its beauty; while, on the other hand, a sedentary life in a confined air produces a pallid and frequently a blotched skin, with headache and dyspepsia.

Steaming the Face.—It seems that the blood-vessels of the skin are much better able to absorb vapor than water. The vapor penetrates and softens the epidermis much better than the simple application of water would. The increased secretion from the skin which is thus caused is beneficial. After using the vapor bath the outer layers of the epidermis peel off and the complexion is improved by the substitution of new pigment. The absorption of the moisture also causes a roundness of the skin and a filling out of the wrinkles. Generally, vapor baths can be used in those cases of skin diseases where the skin is rough and dry. Next in importance to the vapor bath is steaming the face. Bathing the face with very hot water is also recommended.

Massage of the Skin.—Where the complexion is sallow, or there is a tendency to pimples or blotches, massage of the skin of the face will do much to improve the circulation.

The massage is most effective when it follows steaming or washing the face in hot water. The tips of the fingers should be dipped in cold cream, and then, pressure being exerted by them, the skin of the forehead should be deeply stroked from the middle line out over the temples. The nose should be stroked from the bridge outward and downward. The skin of the cheeks should be pinched up and rolled between the fingers and thumb. All these movements facilitate the emptying of the follicles.

Never use an ointment on the face that contains vaselin or lanolin, but particularly the former, as they are both apt to produce a growth of hair, but these preparations are excellent to increase the growth of the eyebrows.

Wrinkles.—In very many cases wrinkles are the result of habit of expression, as in scowling; or an expression of dejection, when the angles of the mouth curve downward, and so forth.

There are twenty-eight muscles about the mouth. Since all these muscles are developed by use, the mouth comes to assume the expression given to it by the thoughts of the individual. The figurative expression, “down at the mouth,” comes to be literally true, and the angles of the mouth are seen to be habitually drooping, until at last this is the fixed expression of the face. A healthy frame of mind is the only means to keep the face from being converted into a map of wrinkles and drooping angles at the mouth.

The wrinkles are not, as a rule, caused by any trouble in the skin itself, but in the underlying muscles, the tissues of which have become relaxed or weakened. The circulation of the parts may be stimulated, and so increased nourishment be secured by deep massage of the muscles, and, at the same time, the use of a good cold cream will aid in the nourishment of the skin.

The face should first be washed and steamed according to the directions already given. The massage of the face should always be carried out in a systematic manner. Begin with the forehead. Stroke with the two thumbs over the forehead, starting near the eyebrows, and work out toward the roots of the hair. In the second movement one hand is used to stretch the part worked upon, while deep friction is made with the tips of the fingers of the other hand.

For wrinkles about the eyes, stroke with the tips of the fingers, over and below the eyes, from the nose toward the temples. Great care must be taken not to apply too much cold cream about the eyes, lest some of it should get into them. For the removal of the “crow’s feet” at the outer angle of the eye stretch the part with the thumb and finger of one hand, and perform friction with the tips of the fingers of the other hand.

To remove the lines that run from the corners of the nose to the angles of the mouth, stroke with both hands, one on each side of the face, beginning at the center and lower part, and stroke upward toward the temples. This upward motion counteracts the drawn and pulled-down condition of the face.

For the cheeks, use both friction and deep kneading; pick up the muscles between the thumb and finger.

To remove wrinkles under the chin and a double chin, begin at the middle line, and with both hands make deep pressure upward and outward. To remove superfluous fat, make deep friction with the tips of the fingers. In the latter case, only use enough cocoa-butter on the fingers to prevent the friction against the skin. The benzoin preparations, already given, will help to contract the tissues.

A cold cream which is a good skin food is the following: Take of the oil of sweet almonds, 2 ounces; of spermaceti, ¼ ounce; of white wax, ¼ ounce; and of rose-water, ½ ounce. Melt together at a moderate heat, the oil, spermaceti, and wax, then gradually add the rose-water; stir the mixture briskly and constantly until it is cool, and continue the stirring until it has become uniformly soft and creamy. The Dover egg-beater will give it the desired creamy appearance.

The Hair.—From an esthetic point of view, a head of luxuriant hair is a matter of prime importance to the woman.

The hairs are peculiar modifications of the epidermis. The hair follicle is a cylindric-shaped depression of the skin, whose funnel-shaped mouth opens on the free surface. Immediately below this is a constriction, called the neck, which is the narrowest part of the follicle; the duct of the sebaceous gland, which supplies the hair with oil, opens at this point. The base of the follicle is bulb-shaped, to accommodate the hair-papilla and the hair-bulb. The hair-papilla contains the blood and nerve supply for the hair. When a hair is plucked or falls out, a new hair grows from the hair-papilla.

According to Pincus, the life of a hair ranges from two to six years, after which it falls out, to be replaced by a new one. In this way about fifty or sixty hairs are normally shed every day.

In order to have thick, luxuriant, silky hair great attention must be paid to the condition of the scalp, since it is the scalp which contains the blood-vessels that nourish the hair. The scalp should be thick and pliable and move freely over the bones of the skull. If the scalp is drawn tightly over the bones of the skull, it tends to constrict the blood-vessels, and so lessen the supply of blood to the scalp and cause atrophy of the roots of the hair from pressure.

The hair has a great tendency to accumulate dirt. It catches the dust flying in the air, and also retains the secretion of fat and the desquamated epithelium of the scalp and the products of perspiration.

The two chief causes of the premature thinness of the hair are a deficient circulation of blood in the scalp and dandruff, and it is said that dandruff causes the loss of hair in 70 per cent. of all cases.

Dandruff.—The last few years has witnessed a revolution in the views of the skin specialists in regard to the cause of dandruff. Previous to that time it was considered as simply a collection of epithelial scales mixed with more or less oily matter. Now, following the investigations that were first instituted by Unna, dandruff is considered as a symptom of a parasitic disease of the scalp, called seborrheic eczema. Sabouraud believes that the same parasite that produces seborrhea causes the loss of hair. It is believed that the parasite grows down into the hair follicle, between its walls and the hair.

Seborrheic eczema is a chronic desquamative inflammation of the scalp of bacterial origin. It is divided into two stages: the first may last from one to seven years; it is attended with more or less dandruff in the form of scales and dryness of the hair; or the dandruff may unite with the oil, producing fatty crusts which are removed with difficulty. This is followed by the second stage, in which the hair falls out.

Symptoms of Seborrheic Eczema.—In the dry form of the disease, in which there is a scaling of the scalp, the hair is dry and unmanageable, the head itches, especially when the patient sits under a light or becomes overheated. There is a more or less constant falling of the scales upon the clothes. The scalp looks pale, and will be found covered with fine grayish or yellowish, readily detachable scales. Sometimes there is more or less redness of the scalp. This is the mildest grade of the disease.

That dandruff is contagious has been proved by experiment, experience, and treatment. Lassar and Bishop made a pomade of the scales taken from the head of a student who was suffering from this disease, and rubbed it into the backs of guinea-pigs, which caused the same disease in them, and falling out of the hair.

Cases have been reported in which husband and wife have contracted dandruff after marriage, he or she having been free before.

The drugs that are most efficacious in the cure of seborrhea are active antiparasitics.

Causes of Seborrheic Eczema.—The general causes are debility, constipation, and anything which undermines the general health. The local causes are lack of cleanliness of the scalp, and using combs or hair-brushes which have been used on the scalps of persons who were suffering from this disease.

In most families will be found one or more members who possess enough seborrheic infection to cause the spread of the disease throughout the rest of the household.

Causes and Treatment of Premature Thinness of the Hair and Baldness.—It has already been stated that 70 per cent. of these cases were caused by seborrheic eczema. Among other causes may be mentioned a progressive tightening of the scalp upon the skull, the scalp having lost the cushion of fat that is under it in early life; insufficient or improper care of the scalp; daily sousing of the head in cold water, combined with improper drying of the hair afterward; sweating of the head; constant mental strain, either on account of intellectual work or worry; wearing stiff, unyielding hats; gout, and all diseases which lower the general nutrition.

The chief treatment is by prophylaxis, or using preventive measures to insure the healthy condition of the scalp. And first and most important of these is cleanliness. Because of the great length of time which it takes to dry long, thick hair, many women do not wash the scalp often enough. In the healthy state of the scalp it should be washed at least once a month.

The Care of the Hair.—There is never any danger of shampooing the healthy scalp too frequently. The oil in the scalp is not removed by washing, but is, on the contrary, always increased through the improvement in the circulation. Where there is much dandruff, or if the hair has begun to fall out prematurely, owing to long neglect or following an illness, it is well to begin by washing the hair two or three times a week, and then gradually increase the interval to every two or three weeks.

Borax in the water cleanses the scalp well, but its continuous use is injurious; the same may be said of ammonia water.

One of the best shampoos is the tincture of green soap. If this cannot be obtained, take of the official green soap 2 ounces, and of alcohol, 1 ounce; mix well, and make shampoo. One ounce of the tincture or its substitute should be diluted with twice as much water and applied to the scalp with the tips of the fingers. When enough of the shampoo has been used, add sufficient water to make a good lather. This must be thoroughly rubbed into the scalp, going over the whole systematically. After the scalp is cleansed, the soap must be well rinsed out of the hair. This may require many changes of the water, but it is most important. Dry the hair with hot towels, the process being completed by a radiator or stove oven. Fanning the hair will hasten the process very considerably. The hair should then be loosely braided and a hot towel wound around the head to insure perfect dryness of the hair and as a prevention against taking cold. One hour is sufficient for the entire procedure. In winter the hair should be washed just before retiring.

Brushing the Hair.—Brushing increases the growth of the hair by stimulating the circulation in the scalp and by removing the dandruff. To be effective, the hair should be well brushed at least once a day, when there must be a deep brushing of the entire scalp. The bristles of the brush must be stiff enough to warm, but not to scratch, the scalp. Brushing and massage remove any loose hairs that are ready to fall, but they will soon be replaced by new vigorous ones.

Combing simply disentangles the hair. The teeth of the comb must be far apart and have rounded ends. In no case should a fine-toothed comb be used. It tears out the hair, and often causes an irritation of the scalp which leads to disease.

From what has been said, it will be seen that every member of the family should have a brush and comb for her own exclusive use, and that no one should allow a public brush or comb to be used on her head.

The brush and comb must be washed once a week in water containing a little ammonia; they must be well rinsed out in pure water; the brush should be dried quickly, with the bristles down. If the brush and comb are not cleaned sufficiently often, the scales of dandruff would be sufficient to reinfect the scalp.

Massage of the Scalp.—The scalp should be thoroughly massaged every night. Grasp the scalp with both hands laterally, as well as anteroposteriorly, and with some pressure loosen the tissues from the underlying parts and try to raise it in folds, or it may be pinched with the forefingers, producing some vascular flux and a sense of warmth.

If the scalp is too dry, nothing is better than pure vaselin, though some persons prefer olive oil, applied by means of a dropper. The yolks of eggs beaten up with lime-water make an elegant shampoo.

Dressing the Hair.—Dragging or twisting the hair from its natural direction, pulling it into constrained or artificial positions, and even twisting the hair very tightly is injurious to it.

The curling iron acts by abstracting more moisture on one side of the hair than on the other. The stronger the hair, the more easily it will curl, and the longer it will stay curled. The daily use of a hot iron, notwithstanding the greatest care, will in a short time prove injurious; the hair is apt to become thin and fall out. Its growth is interfered with. The use of kid curlers is much less injurious, but even here the tight twisting of the hair around the kids is said to be harmful.

Shell hair-pins are the best for the hair. If steel ones are used, the points must be smooth and the pins kept in good condition.

When the hair is dressed for the night, after the scalp has been brushed and massaged, it should be loosely braided and left hanging down.

Cutting the hair 1 inch, every two or three months, is said to promote the growth of the hair and prevent its splitting. It does not increase the number of hairs.

There is no truth in the assertion that the hair is a hollow tube, which allows the escape of oil, and that if the ends are sealed by singeing much good will result.

Gray Hair.—Grayness of the hair may be either premature or physiologic. When the grayness is due to some temporary cause, as anxiety or some diseased state, the process may cease completely on the removal of the cause. Usually the whitening is permanent. The grayness of the hair is caused by obscure changes in the nutrition of the hair-papilla, which interfere with the production of the pigment. As a rule, the hair whitens first on the temples, then on the top of the head.

The hair first turns gray at its root. The grayness is due to the loss of pigment. Prolonged residence in either a very cold or a very hot climate will cause the hair to turn gray.

A yellowish tinge of the hair is sometimes seen in patients with jaundice, or gray hair may owe its dull yellow color to the tint of dry albumin of which it is composed. The glitter of steel-gray or silver-white hair is due to the high refractive power of the minute air-bubbles that lie in the substance of the hair.

Treatment.—The color cannot be restored to gray hair. The roots of the hair are embedded in the hair follicles, and cannot be reached by any fluids applied to the scalp. Not only is the use of hair-dyes to be deprecated as an exhibition of poor taste, which happily is going out of fashion, but the use of hair-dyes is extremely dangerous. Cases are being constantly reported by physicians, where the use of these supposedly simple vegetable hair-dyes has been followed by very serious and extensive dermatitis of the face, neck, and shoulders.

Gray hair is really very beautiful when it is of silvery whiteness, and very ugly when it is of a yellowish-white color. It must be treated with much greater care, in order to preserve its silvery whiteness, than was necessary to keep the hair in good condition before it lost its coloring pigment. It should never be wet, except when it is shampooed. For this reason, instead of using hair-curlers, crimping pins should be used. In this way the hair is waved quite as well and the use of water is avoided.

The Cosmetic Care and Treatment of the Hands.—Of all the members of the body, next to the face, the hands have the most expression, and serve as an index of character and refinement.

Not only should the most scrupulous attention be given to having clean hands and nails, but every precaution should be taken to keep the skin soft and the nails carefully manicured. This is quite possible for the housewife, simply by wearing rubber gloves while she does her work. It preserves the fine sense of touch in the fingers, which aids in sewing and embroidery, at the same time that it adds much to the beauty of the hands.

Chapped Hands.—To prevent chapping of the hands in cold weather heavy gloves must be worn or a muff carried. Another aid in the prevention of the skin of the hands from becoming rough and chapped, and the best means for curing them if this has occurred, is by the use of a good cold cream at night, just before retiring. The cold cream should be well rubbed in the skin, especially about the finger-nails, and after this talcum powder be dusted over. This forms a thick covering for the hands, the talcum powder prevents the cream from being rubbed off on the bed-clothes, and, on getting up in the morning, the skin will be found to be soft. Only in case the hands are very badly chapped should old kid gloves be worn at night.

Cosmetic of the Nails.—The physiologic function of the nails is to protect the tips of the fingers against pressure and to give them a firm support; this increases the delicacy of the tactile sensations.

The nails should be slightly curved from side to side, of a light rose color, and smooth surface. The lunula should be visible at the root of the nail. Brittleness of the nails is a defect, which causes them to tear easily; it is generally due to the condition of the general health.

There is a natural tendency for the dirt to accumulate on the under surface of the nail, between it and the finger. This is not only unsightly, but it is often the cause of actual danger, as this forms a lodgment for the germs of disease. Not only is it necessary for doctors and nurses to give the most scrupulous attention to the care of the nails, but, when we learn that one cook has been the cause of spreading typhoid fever through a number of families, in her itinerary in going from place to place, we must be impressed with the necessity of more careful oversight being given to the hands of domestics and housewives who prepare the food.

For the same reason, it is self-evident that the hands should always be washed immediately before going to the table, and cleaning the nails is always a finishing touch in the washing of the hands.

For the purpose of cleansing the nails, an orange stick or nail-file should be used, and never the point of the scissors or the blade of a knife, for either of these causes a roughening of the under surface of the nails, whereby the lodgment of dirt becomes only the more securely fixed. After the use of the nail-file, the nail-brush should be used, followed again by the use of the file or stick. If there is a tendency to a roughening of the skin under the nail, it can be obviated by the use of cold cream at night. Just before retiring, the fingers should be dipped into cold cream, and let the tips take up just as much as they will retain, and after this dipped into talcum powder.

The small rim of epidermis which laps over the nail should be gently shoved back with the orange stick every day. This skin, when torn, forms the so-called hangnails, by which infection easily enters the system; it may give rise to felons or even to general blood-poisoning.

The Care of the Feet.—In the care of the feet it must be remembered that the leather of the closely fitting boot allows very little ventilation, and so more attention must be paid to the airing of the feet as well as to their bathing. The feet should be bathed twice daily.

On making the toilet for the evening dinner both shoes and stockings should be changed, the stockings hung up in the room, and the shoes left out to air and dry, instead of being stuffed into the shoe-bag, to remain there until the next morning.

An alcohol rub will be found very refreshing to weary feet. For profuse perspiration of the feet, boric acid or talcum powder may be used, dusting the powder over the feet both night and morning.

Ingrowing Toe-nails.—The common causes of ingrowing toe-nails are improper foot-wear and an improper method of cutting the nails. If the nail is cut too short, especially at the angles, while at the same time the shoe is too short or too narrow, the skin of the toe is forced over the nail, so that it necessarily happens that, by the further growth of the nail, the flesh of the toe is pushed still further over, until a point is reached where inflammation is set up. There is excruciating pain, which may be accompanied by the formation of a small tumor, which forms pus and may go on to granulation—the so-called “proud flesh.”

The preventive measures of the trouble are, first, in cutting of the nails. The toe-nail should be cut in a concave form, the outer angle projecting beyond the toe. If there is a tendency for the flesh to grow over the nail, the flesh should be pushed back from the nail, and fastened in this position with a strip of oxid of zinc plaster, and a gauze packing should be inserted under the nail-edge. A saturated solution of boric acid serves as an antiseptic dressing. It is often possible to cut off the projecting nail, and, by the use of the boric acid dressing, the trouble disappears in a few days. Attention should always be given to the toe-nails when bathing.

Corns.—There are two varieties of corns; both are very painful. Soft corns come between the toes, and unless absorbent cotton is inserted to prevent the rubbing of the toes together, a second corn appears on the opposing surface of the adjoining toe. A very effective remedy for this is the application of blue-stone, or sulphate of copper, to the corn. The stone is moistened in water and then applied thoroughly to the corn; absorbent cotton should be placed between the toes. In very severe cases it may be necessary to stay off the feet for a few days and keep the foot upon a chair.

Hard corns must be cut down with the greatest care. It should be done directly after the bath, so as to have the skin in as nearly an aseptic condition as possible. A small scalpel, composed entirely of steel, should be kept for this purpose. It must be thoroughly cleaned after it is used, and just before its use be sterilized by boiling for five minutes. The reasons for these precautions are the possibility of cutting into the flesh and setting up blood-poisoning by the entrance of germs into the wound.