| Drawn from Life by G. F. Lyon. | On Stone by D. Dighton. |
Arabs exercising.
London. Published by J. Murray Albemarle
St. 1821.
C. Hullmandel’s Lithography.
A light mane and tail on a chesnut horse is considered unlucky; the colour, though common, is not much admired, and the feet of such animals are accounted soft and tender. Bay is the favourite colour next to light grey, which is much in request, the Bashaw generally riding horses of this description.
Much importance is attached to the manner in which the legs are coloured, stockinged horses being in the extremes of good or bad luck, according to the disposition of the white. If both forelegs are marked, it is good; if one hind and one fore leg are marked on the same side, it is very unlucky; or if one alone is white, it is equally unfortunate; but if opposite legs (off fore and near hind) are light, nothing can be more admired. Ridiculous as these fancies may appear, they nevertheless influence the price of horses, sometimes to even a sixth of their value.
In sandy parts of the desert shoeing is never used; but where the animals are to pass over mountains, it is absolutely necessary. The Arab shoes are thus formed, [figure] turning up behind; and are, in general, so badly put on, that there are few horses to be found which have not been injured in their feet. The Arab’s forge is simple, and almost every man is his own blacksmith. A small mud or clay wall is built to the height of a foot or eighteen inches; a hole is then made even with the ground, and an iron pipe introduced. To this are attached two skins, which open at the upper end by means of two sticks, having a small leather handle on each: the thumb is passed through one of these, and the fingers through the other; so that the hand easily opens and shuts the skin. The mouth being closed, the skin is pressed down, and throws a strong blast through the pipe. It is again opened and lifted up, when it is once more ready. Thus, alternately with each hand, the current of air is kept up to the fire which lies over the pipe. Camel’s dung is used when charcoal cannot be procured, and gives a very strong heat. The anvil is a small square-ended piece of iron, which is sunk in a log of wood, and partly buried in the sand. An ordinary hammer, and a pair or two of pincers, complete the apparatus.
The mill is equally simple, being composed of two circular stones, one of which lies flat on the other, and is turned by a small handle placed on it; this is fixed by a pivot from the lower one, and has a hole in the centre, through which it is supplied with grain.
The messes made with flour are few, and may be thus enumerated: Cusscussou, Bazeen, Dweeda, Atila, Mogatta, Zūmeita, Bread, Fetaat. Cusscussou being a dish very generally mentioned in all books of travels, I shall attempt to describe the manner in which it is made; and I trust I may be allowed, however trifling the subject, to mention in the same manner the other articles of food, as I believe they are at present only known by name.
The corn for Cusscussou is ground expressly to the state which is called Semolina in Italy, and used also under that name in England. The hand being clean washed, and a large wooden bowl prepared, a portion of semolina is thrown into it with the right hand; it is turned quickly round under the palm, while from the left, water is occasionally sprinkled upon the mass, together with dry semolina. In a short time, by turning it constantly the same way, the flour adheres in little granules, like bread crums; and by a dexterous motion of the hand, is prevented from forming into large lumps. When finished, the grains resemble small shot in size, and stick closely together, without danger of again falling into flour on being dried. They will keep good in this state nearly as long as corn. When Cusscussou is to be prepared for eating, it is put in a basket, or tin vessel having holes in the bottom, and steamed over meat, or boiling water, care being taken to stir it occasionally, so as to prevent its caking. When sufficiently done, meat is poured on with its gravy, or a little butter or grease mixed with it; should meat be wanting, a good quantity of red pepper and salt are frequently all its auxiliaries.
Bazeen (which in Fezzan is called Aseēda) is the most common food, as being the easiest prepared. It is made of the flour of any grain (Bishna and Barley are mostly used near Tripoli) in the following manner. A large pot, of copper or iron, is placed on the fire, with a little water in it, which is suffered to boil. Flour is then thrown in, until it acquires the consistency of dough, when it is stirred well about with a large stick (water being occasionally added, if necessary,) until it is quite thick, and begins to assume the appearance of a pudding, when it is taken out, and placed in a bowl. After being beat into a circular shape, and having a hole made in the centre, gravy, oil, butter, or grease, is poured on it, and it is then ready for eating, which is done by pinching pieces out with the right hand, and kneading them with the grease until they assume the appearance of thick paste. Should there be no gravy or grease to be procured, a little flour mixed with hot water is used instead of it. It requires much strength of arm to make bazeen properly, as the stick is wielded by both hands, and the pot is confined on the fire by having a forked piece of wood placed against it, on which the woman kneels while preparing the mess.
Dweeda is moulded in the shape of little seeds, not quite so large as the grains of rice; but oblong, and much resembling them. A stiff dough being prepared, the women very expeditiously pinch it out between their fingers and thumbs into this form. It is then allowed to dry; and is considered a great dainty when boiled, and a little butter poured over it.
Atila is composed much in the same way; but is longer, and much resembles small macaroni broken in pieces. It is also boiled in the same manner as Dweeda.
Mogatta is made of paste, by being beaten and turned between the hands, until it is as thin as a pancake; it is then laid in the sun to harden a little. When it becomes sufficiently crisp to break, it is crumbled in pieces, and boiled until it resembles thick porridge, the larger pieces always remaining entire. A sufficient quantity of fat and pepper completes it.
Zumeeta is made of barley, which has been a little malted; it is then ground into flour, and sometimes dates are pounded with it. In this state it remains until it is to be used; when a little cold water being mixed with it until it becomes like dough, it is fit for eating. Oil is much used with it, by dipping the Zumeeta in it when formed into mouthfuls for eating. This is almost the only stock which Arabs provide on going a journey, as it is easily prepared, and very nourishing.
Bread is made as in Europe. It is leavened with flour, or a preparation of dates, moulded into little cakes shaped like buns. The ovens are generally formed in the ground: a hole is made about two feet in depth, and in the shape of a large jar, contracted at the mouth; it is then encrusted inside with clay. Wood is thrown in and burnt, until a thick layer of glowing ashes is collected at the bottom, and the oven is thoroughly heated; the loaves are then put in by a woman, who bares and wets her arm, and sticks them against the side with great dexterity: when done enough, if not speedily taken off, they fall into the embers. Sometimes meat is dressed in these ovens; a kind of crumpet, also, called Fetaat, made in the same way as Mogatta, but without leaven, is slightly baked in them; one of these crumpets is then placed in a bowl, and soup and vegetables are poured over it; another is then put in, and soup added as before, and so on in successive layers, until the bowl is full. All these messes are eaten with the fingers.
There is great variety in the manner of dressing meat, which is stewed, boiled, or baked; but for journeys the Arabs have a very good way of preserving it, by cutting it into thin slices, drying it in the sun, and afterwards stewing it in fat. I have often observed them eating small grasses, which they found as they pursued their journey; and to my inquiries how they knew them to be innoxious, the general reply was, that whatever an animal which chewed its cud could eat with safety, must be food for man. There is a species of dandelion, very bitter, and exuding a white juice, which is much liked by the sheep as well as their masters. The taste at first is very unpleasant; but I soon became accustomed to it. The Colocynth apple grows in great quantities in some parts of the Desert, and is almost the only medicine used by the Arabs. Burning is always had recourse to, and many of them are in consequence covered with scars; it is also occasionally used to show the force of love; and both sexes practise it when they wish to give proof of very strong affection.
Wolves, young dogs, cats, and hedgehogs, though forbidden animals, are not unfrequently eaten by sick persons, from a belief that their flesh is medicinal, or, as they express it, “Doua.” Charms are much worn, and are procured from such as are considered Marāboots amongst themselves, or from the Scribes of Tripoli. It is not enough that the man should be defended by these little prayers sewed up in leather, and attached to his arms or body; but his horse, gun, sword, and red cap must be equally protected with himself. The “Evil Eye” is of all other mischiefs most dreaded, and for a stranger to express particular admiration of a child, a horse, or any other valuable, is to bring on it or its possessor certain misfortune; this may, however, be averted by passing over the object a finger wetted with saliva, or by the equally efficacious charm of an open hand, either attached to the clothes as an ornament, or tattooed on the skin. It is remarkable that no Arab will take a knife or scissars from the hands of any one, as (from some superstitious prejudice) such an action is considered highly unfortunate; but they require that the instrument should be first laid on the ground, whence they readily take it up without fear.
The Arabs have but few amusements beyond Dancing and a Game called Helga, which resembles draughts, and is played with camels’ dung or date stones, in holes made in the sand. The noise uttered by these people at their festivals, or on any joyful occasion, is most extraordinary; and being very shrill, it may be heard at a great distance, particularly if several persons join in chorus: it is a piercing cry from the throat (the mouth being quite open), to which a tremulous sound is given by a rapid motion of the tongue from side to side; it is very enlivening, and when it becomes familiar to the ear, far from disagreeable.
The manner of salutation used amongst the Arabs is particularly striking, and certainly not ungraceful. Friends on meeting, seize each the right hand of the other, then loosen and apply the tips of their fingers to their mouths, afterwards laying the open hand on the heart, they press it and gently incline the head at the same time. Very intimate acquaintances mutually lift their joined right hands in such a manner that each kisses the back of the other’s hand, repeating with the greatest rapidity, “How are you? well, how are you? Thank God, how are you? God bless you, how are you?” which compliments in a well bred man never last less than ten minutes; and whatever may be the conversation afterwards, it is a mark of great good breeding occasionally to interrupt it, bowing solemnly and asking, “How are you?” though an answer to the question is by no means considered necessary, as he who asks it is perhaps looking another way, and thinking of something else. I must not omit to mention a particular instance of good breeding which I met with amongst these people: a man begged me one day to reach him a piece of straw which lay near me, that he might take out of a cup of water a bird which had fallen into it. I perceived, however, that it was only a Fly; and was afterwards informed that they consider it disrespectful to make use of the word Fly in presence of a superior.
The questions asked and observations made by some of the inland Arabs respecting our country were very curious; amongst other extraordinary fancies, they have an idea, originating in the name given to the Atlantic, Bahr el blem, باحرالظلا, sea of darkness, that we have no Sun or Moon in the countries which are in the sea, and in consequence, they imagine that our ships sail about with great lanterns attached to them. They also believe that Christians use the milk of pigs as a beverage, and in fact, that it forms their chief subsistence. That we have horses, cows, and sheep, is not at all credited by them; and that our country should be destitute of dates excites their greatest commiseration. They cannot at all conceive how we avoid falling off our islands and rolling into the sea, or how, being surrounded by water, we have sufficient room for animals to graze. There are some on the other hand who think highly of our wealth and dignity, until they are told that our country is an Island, when their admiration decreases considerably. Buonaparte, or as the Arabs call him, Bono barto, is in great estimation amongst them, not on account of his military achievements; but because they have heard that he has 200,000 dollars an hour, and that he sits on a golden throne.
The Arabs are good and bold horsemen, and though in general but poorly provided with food for their horses, they make them perform very long journeys. The inducement to all exertion, however, is now nearly at an end, their wars having ceased; but in the time of the Waled Suliman, اولاد سوليمان who infested the road from Tripoli to Fezzan, and committed every excess, journeys were made and difficulties overcome which equalled any of the stories of the Arabs of old. This once powerful tribe had formerly possession of every pass from Tripoli to the interior, and were so much dreaded, that few traders would venture amongst them, even when they were at peace with the Bashaw. These are the people whom Lucas mentions as having declared war against Tripoli, and prevented the Kafflé, to which he was attached, from proceeding from Mesurāta to Fezzan; but they are now completely destroyed. About eight years since the Bashaw in the regency of Tripoli, and Mukni, in the kingdom of Fezzan, commenced so hot an attack upon them that they were scattered, and being in small parties, easily fell a prey to the troops employed against them. It was the custom during this war (as in all previous wars) to give no quarter; all prisoners therefore had their throats cut on being taken, and every species of cruelty was practised on them. Two hundred and fifty, who were seized in a town in the Wadey Shiati of Fezzan, were butchered in cold blood, even though they had surrendered on condition of having their lives spared. This tribe perhaps would still have flourished in Fezzan, but that not expecting any attack from Mukni, they quitted for a time their own territory and proceeded to Egypt, in order to wage war on some other tribes who had offended them: this circumstance was taken immediate advantage of by Mukni, who contrived before their return to gain possession of Morzouk, which he could not otherwise have done. They, however, besieged him there with great activity; but leaving in the meantime their frontiers undefended, the Bashaw poured his army into the country, and thus completely effected their destruction as a tribe. The small number who escaped became wanderers for a time, and were occasionally met with and killed, until at last the remaining few incorporated themselves with other tribes. That of the Waled Suliman, which does not now exist, is celebrated in all the Arab stories; and there are few places in this part of Africa which have not had ample occasion to remember them.
Wherever they removed, their families and immense flocks accompanied them; and they were commanded by one or two Sheikhs of known courage and experience. A friend of ours, who in the first wars had spared the life of one of their chiefs, was, a few months after, coming from Fezzan, in company with a large kafflé of merchants, bringing slaves, when, in a part of the mountains, in which they conceived there was no chance of encountering these people, they, to their great dismay, were seized and conducted to the chief, in full conviction that they should be murdered, and their slaves and goods distributed amongst the captors; when, fortunately, one of the party stepped forward, and suddenly recognised his deliverer. The scene was immediately changed: eighteen sheep, as many goats, and some cows were killed, and the whole kafflé feasted for three days; their goods and their slaves were returned to them, and they were suffered to depart.
On our return to Tripoli, we understood that it was not the intention of the Bashaw to send, as he at first had given out, a force with Mukni, into the interior. The latter was to be attended only by his own followers; and we were desired to hold ourselves in readiness to accompany him in a few days. In consequence of this, Mr. Ritchie caused a variety of food, appropriate for a journey on the Desert, to be provided. He bought Gerbas, or water skins; and in fact, made every necessary preparation. Owing to the lowness of his funds, he wrote to Lord Bathurst, soliciting a further supply; and I drew money, on my own account, which I gave him for our general use. For some articles which Mr. Ritchie procured for Mukni, from Malta, he became our debtor to the amount of 300 dollars, which were to be paid us on his arrival in Fezzan. On this small sum, and not knowing when or how we were to procure more, was our journey to be undertaken. Our camels were paid for in advance; but other expenses, which were unavoidable, would, we had no doubt, extend far beyond our narrow limits.
The allowance of £2000, which was made to Mr. Ritchie, had already been expended, in buying Merchandize, Instruments, Arms, &c. and otherwise making provision for the welfare of the Mission; but the merchandize was selected in England, and unfortunately was such as could be of little utility in the interior, of which circumstance we were not aware until too late; for, with the exception of cutlery, we had, in fact, nothing which would sell. We had Beads and looking-glasses in abundance; but neither of these articles were of the kind most in request amongst the Negroes, who, we learnt, were as much wedded to fashion, as the inhabitants of more civilized countries. Such was the inauspicious state of our affairs, when we entered on our hazardous journey, determined at all events, that, however unpromising in its commencement, its failure should not be attributed to our want of zeal in the service we had undertaken.
On the 18th March, the Bashaw held a public audience; and Mukni, in presence of the British consul, as well as ourselves, pledged himself to assist us in all our difficulties.
Preparations for their departure, in company with Mohammed el Mukni — Encampment in the Mountains of Terhoona, and at the Wells of Melghra — Arrival at Benioleed — Interview with the Wife of the Sheikh, of the Kafflé — Their Christian Friends return to Tripoli — Punishment of an Arab for Theft — Journey over the Desert — Remains of a Roman Castle — Continuation of the Journey, until their Arrival at Sockna — Entry into that City — Description of it — Manner of raising the Tribute Money — Accompany the Sultan’s Son to Hoon and Wadan, to receive the Taxes — Account of those Places — Return to Sockna — Leave Sockna — Singular Custom imposed on Travellers in passing the Soudah Mountains — Arrival at Nufdai — Clear the Soudah Mountains — And travel over the gravelly Plain, through the Pass of Kenair, to the Well of Om el Abeed — Visit the Towns of Zeighan and Samnoo, famed for their Marāboots — Encamp at Temenhint — Arrival at Sebha, where the Black Population commences — Pass on to Ghroodwa — Entry to Morzouk, the Capital of Fezzan.
On the 22d March, 1819, after repeated delays, every thing being at length in readiness for our departure, the camels, twenty-two in number, arrived, and carried our goods to the Desert beyond the Meshea, where Mr. Ritchie preferring to remain in the town, Belford, and myself, pitched our tent, in order to keep watch over the goods. Our Kafflé increased much this day; many Negroes, who had obtained their freedom, and were returning to their native countries, fixed their little triangles of sticks, and a mat or carpet, close to us, whilst I amused myself in marking our goods, so that each camel-man might be enabled to know his own charge, and thus avoid mistakes or confusion.
23d March.—I went back into the town, and found that Mukni was not to join us until the morrow; by which delay, we obtained time to furnish ourselves with many necessaries, which we had before forgotten to provide.
24th March.—Mukni did not arrive this day; but his two Negresses and household slaves came out and pitched their tents. These women were mounted on camels, in a kind of litter, called Shiblia شبليه which is a light frame of wood, covered with scarlet cloth, so arranged, as to prevent the person in the inside from being seen. One of them had been twice to the Niger with Mukni, and was named Zaitoon زيتون or olive tree; the other was the mother of his youngest child, and was called Zeman Donya, زمان دونيه time of the world. All was confusion this day; and the varied heaps of goods, camels, saddles, and animals, which were scattered about, presented a very lively scene. As I sat in our tent, writing a letter, some Arabs came in, and seemed to find much amusement in seeing me write from left to right; but, when I told them my letter was addressed to a Female, their astonishment knew no bounds; and they laughed heartily at the idea, that it was possible for a woman to be capable of reading. Colonel Warrington’s eldest son came to spend the evening with us.
March 25th.—I went into the town, and took leave of all my Christian friends. At eight A.M. the kafflé, consisting of about two hundred men, and the same number of camels, set off. We followed them, and pitched our tents, to rest for the night, on the desert, near a well and a few palm trees. After dark, Mr. Ritchie, accompanied by our friends, Dr. Dickson, and Messrs. Carstensen, arrived. We amused ourselves in visiting little parties of the liberated Blacks, who were all joyful at the idea of returning once more to their native land; though their means of support were very slender, and many of them, with their young children, had to walk a distance of above two thousand miles, before they could reach their own country.
March 26th.—At 8 A.M. we again moved on over a sandy, irregular desert, all in high spirits at having commenced our journey, after so many and apparently unnecessary delays. Having travelled south-east twelve miles, we encamped near a very deep well, which I have before mentioned, where we were to wait for Mukni. Our kind friend, Dr. Dickson, here left us, the Bashaw requiring his attendance at the Castle. After dark we observed several flashes of muskets, which were fired by Mukni’s attendants, in order to discover the position of the Kafflé; we fired others in return, and soon heard the shrill pipes of the musicians announcing his approach. A beautiful scene now presented itself when he entered the camp, attended by about fifty horsemen, dressed in their gayest apparel, preceded by wild music, and three stand of silk colours. As we had coffee prepared for ourselves, Mukni, who was very fond of it, visited us in our tent, and partook of it with his son Yussuf, a mulatto boy of about eight years of age. They were splendidly dressed, and had ridden from the town at full speed, the little boy being a most excellent horseman.
March 27th.—Early in the morning we went on, and discovered that in the night another Shiblia had joined us, containing a very fat and beautiful woman, the wife of Sheikh Barood, who was director of the Kafflé, and manager of Mukni’s affairs. Our road lay over a fine country, with corn, many flocks, and a few Arab tents scattered here and there. In the afternoon, having passed through several low hills, we arrived at some corn, and encamped near a well; the Sultan’s people turning their horses amongst the corn, without any pity or consideration for the poor wretches who owned it.
March 28th.—Entered the mountains of Terhoona, which we passed through on our return from Benioleed, and encamped, at four P.M. near the wells of Melghra.
March 29th.—We proceeded this day over a fine country, and through a Wadey, having wells in it, called Mader, مادر; we filled our gerbas, and then entered on a rough uncultivated plain, where the paths were very difficult for our camels.
March 30th.—Having travelled this day also over a stony desert, we arrived at Benioleed, from which place to Tripoli I have, in a former part of my journal, given the bearings. Mukni’s horsemen preceded him to the castle, firing and shouting, as the people of Tripoli do in honour of the Bashaw.
March 31st.—As this was market day, we remained here in order to refresh ourselves, pitching our tents very pleasantly and securely amongst some Olives in the Wadey. Mukni had warned us, on coming here, to avoid encamping on the low ground, as, during the rains, it frequently became entirely flooded, and was therefore very dangerous. He told us of the Wadey being sometimes so completely covered with water, as to hide the highest olive trees from the view; the depth must therefore have been at least thirty feet. Many natives confirmed this account, adding, that men and animals had often been drowned in the night, before they could have time to escape; the torrents from the hill sides which form the Wadey, rushing down with such impetuosity that an hour or two is sufficient to inundate the whole country. We bought a fine sheep in the market, and killed it to feast our guests.
A boy who accompanied us from Tripoli came to me, full of the praises of Lilla Fatma, the fat wife of Sheikh Barood, a white woman, who, he said, was the most beautiful creature he had ever seen, and so fat that she could scarcely walk: “her arm (t’barek Allah, تْبارك اله, God’s blessing on it!) is as big as my body,” continued he, “and she says she should like to see you and Sidi Yussuf.” Such a hint was not to be rejected, and I therefore immediately paid her a visit, the boy acting as my Interpreter. On my entrance she so veiled herself as to exhibit to advantage her arm, with all its gay ornaments; and on my requesting to be favoured with a view of her face, she, with very little reluctance, gratified me. Her chin, the tip of her nose, and the space between her eyebrows, were marked with black lines; she was much rouged; her neck, arms, and legs, were covered with tattooed flowers, open hands, circles, the names of God, and of her numerous male friends. She had a multitude of gold ear-rings and ornaments, set with very bad and counterfeit jewels, and weighing all together, I should think, two or three pounds. Her shirt was of striped silk; and she had a rich purple silk barracan, or mantle, gracefully thrown round her, and fastened at the breast by a gold pin, with ornaments of the same metal suspended from it: all the other articles of finery which she possessed were displayed round the tent, whilst a multitude of poor thin wretches, resembling witches, sat round her in astonishment, never having in their lives seen such a paragon of perfection. Like all other Arabs, they touched whatever pleased them most, one admiring this object, another something near it, so that our poor belle was sometimes poked by a dozen fingers at once; all, however, agreeing on one point, that she was beautifully and excessively fat, and I must say I never before beheld such a monstrous mass of human flesh. One of her legs, of enormous size, was uncovered as high as the calf, and every one pressed it, admiring its solidity, and praising God for blessing them with such a sight. I was received most graciously, and invited to sit close to her, when one of the first questions she asked me was, if in my country the ladies were as fat and handsome as herself? For the plumpness of my countrywomen, I owned, with shame, that I never had seen one possessed of half such an admirable rotundity, which she took as a great compliment; but I did not attempt to carry the comparison farther, though she was really very handsome in face and features. She amused herself while speaking with playing on a kind of drum, made of clay, called Derbooka, دربوكه, by beating with one hand, and playing with the fingers of the other; and perceiving that I was amused by it, she ordered an old man to get up and dance. The females sang and clapped their hands in good time, and the dancer went through a variety of figures, all equally indelicate. A woman then succeeded him, and in this respect quite threw him in the shade; but as I knew it to be the general mode of dancing in this part of Barbary, I of course applauded it. Lilla Fatma herself then thought proper to honour us with a few graceful attitudes in the same style; but Mr. Ritchie’s entrance into the tent soon put a stop to the exhibition, and the ceremony of veiling took place in the same manner as before. Fatma soon discovered a likeness between her late husband and Mr. Ritchie, from their being both very slender; but unfortunately the resemblance failed in all other points, her former spouse being, at the time she was obliged to leave him by an order of the Bashaw, fifty years old, with a grey beard; while, on the other hand, Mr. Ritchie was but twenty-seven, and of a very fair complexion. She was at all events determined to be pleased with us; and having sprinkled us with rose-water, allowed us to take our leave. On returning to our tent, we sent her some coffee, and a few lumps of sugar.
We found here much difficulty in obtaining water for our horses, owing to the great depth of the wells, and the people being employed in filling the skins for the morrow. In the evening, we visited Mukni, at the castle; and finding him surrounded by eatables, were invited to partake of them: but we discovered, that all his people, whilst it was his pleasure to remain, were fed by the natives, cost free. We laid in a sufficient stock of barley to supply our four horses, until we should arrive at Morzouk.
April 2nd.—We took water for three days, on the camels, and passed along the Wadey, at 7,15, A.M. Our friends here quitted us, in order to return to Tripoli, and we were now left to ourselves, amongst a strange people; our hearts were heavy, and we conversed but little during the remainder of the day. The country, on rising from the Wadey, was a stony desert until noon, when we passed over plains capable of cultivation, but having no water.
At 4,50, entered another Wadey, in which we saw a large herd of Gazelles; and, passing through it until 5,20, we encamped. Made S.E. by S. thirty miles. The horses were turned out to graze on a large field of barley, belonging to the Orfilly. This place was called Gairi, قيري or Sofagie. A mountain, south three miles, named Glla قله, and a distant range in the same direction, called Souarit سواريت. Much good herbage. On the camels being unloaded, we found that an old Bornou black had died on the one which he rode. A melancholy howling was set up by the women, and the corpse was carried to a distance, and immediately buried. An Arab, who was prowling about this evening, stole a gun belonging to one of the Sultan’s followers; but was detected, and bastinadoed in a most barbarous manner, by two men on each side, with green date sticks. After this part of his punishment was ended, a man mounted a horse, and started at full gallop, leading, or rather dragging this poor wretch after him. His wrists were tied together behind him, and the end of the cord which secured them was attached to the horse’s saddle. Had he fallen when thus dragged along, his shoulders must inevitably have been dislocated.
April 3rd.—We journeyed all this day over a stony plain, without the least sign of vegetation, and covered with small stones, of about the size and form of lumps of sugar; their surfaces appeared vitrified, and shone very much. In the evening, we got into a wadey where we found a well, and several talhh trees, so that we had abundance of fuel. We heard, during the night, repeated cries of jackals and hyænas. Made this day, S.E. twenty-eight miles.
April 4th.—At seven A.M. went on over a barren plain, having no water; but were enabled to collect a few bushes for our night’s cooking. At sunset secured our baggage, and lay in a gravelly flat. Jackals very noisy. Proceeded S.E. twenty-eight miles.
April 5th.—Barren plain as before. At two P.M. ascended a steep hill, from which, in every direction, the country appeared quite desolate;—found a few bushes on the top. On descending, at sunset, we pitched our tents, having travelled thirty-five miles, S.E.
April 6th.—At six A.M. we started, and passed over the wadeys Hait حيت, and Zemzem زمزم; each having a few prickly bushes, on which our camels fed. The latter is of great length, and runs to the sea, in the Gulf of Syrtis.
At 1,30, having passed a plain, where we found gypsum, and in some places, cockle-shells, we reached some sand hills to the well of Bonjem بنجم; the water of which resembles, both in taste and smell, bilge water from a ship. It lies in a stratum of black clay, about five feet below the sand. At the distance of half a mile from the well, is a Roman castle, situated amongst some high sand hills: it is of an oblong form, having in the centre of each of the walls, which are towards the cardinal points, a large arched gateway, between two strong towers. Each of the former, with its flanking towers, is in a different style of architecture: only one remains quite perfect; the others have fallen, or are partially buried in the sand. The stones of which these buildings are composed, are of the magnitude common to all Roman structures, and are of a kind of dark granite. In the enclosed space are several immense stones, standing upright, and so placed as to give the appearance of having once supported a large building: some are ten feet in height, independent of the part embedded in the sand. The mouth of a well is visible, still bearing the marks of the cords used in drawing the water; it is now entirely choked up with sand. The walls from east to west, are above two hundred paces in length; I should rather say, the tops of the walls, for in some places, they are buried in the sand; and from north to south, about one hundred and fifty. The Arabs, probably in the time of the Khalifs, appear to have used the northern towers; as remains of their rude masonry still surmount the original buildings. Over each gateway there had been an inscription, of which the northern one is most perfect. We found, by comparing them, that all were thus worded.
Under each had once been a large eagle, carved in basso relievo; but they are now so mutilated, as to bear very little resemblance to that bird.
This place is the northern boundary of Fezzan. All slaves of Mukni’s, going from Fezzan to Tripoli on account of the Bashaw, belong to the former until Bonjem is past; should any die afterwards, the Bashaw is the loser. The same risk attends the latter when he sends horses or goods to Mukni; all losses being made good by him north of the boundary, and by Mukni south of it. All camels found straying on the desert are appropriated to the respective kingdoms.
| Drawn from Nature by G. F. Lyon. | On Stone by G. Harley. |
The Castle of Bonjem.
London. Published by J. Murray Albemarle
St. Feb.1.1821.
C. Hullmandel’s Lithography.
Bonjem, according to Mr. Ritchie, is in latitude 30°. 35′. 32″. N. A few Arabs passed us with three camels and twelve female slaves, from Morzouk. We expected, on leaving Tripoli, to be much troubled about the established prayers, which should be repeated by the natives five times a day, though by travellers only thrice; but our present companions certainly were not very scrupulous in their religious duties; no one, or at most only two or three of them, ever praying at all; and, as for Mukni and his followers, they seemed to give themselves very little trouble about it. The only devout person amongst them, was one of our camel-men, who roared out all day, as loud as he was able, verses from the Koran, and charms against the devil; yet, in spite of all his sanctity, he was the greatest rascal in the kafflé. This fellow, in speaking of us, contemptuously called us Romees, or Christians; which coming to Mukni’s knowledge, he threatened him with a good thrashing, if he ever again called us any thing but Mamlukes, as the Sultan himself did.
The people of the kafflé having, by this time, become better acquainted with us, soon discovered Mr. Ritchie’s medical talents, and accordingly gave him no little trouble with their real and fancied complaints. They were all very anxious to be bled, and to take physic. One or two who were the most troublesome, and who had only imaginary ailments, were consigned to my management; for these I prepared, with an air of affected gravity, a mixture of coffee, salt, vinegar, and red pepper, giving to each a spoonful, with many serious instructions, how they were to eat, drink, and sleep; and I found, next morning, to my great satisfaction, that my patients had spread a report all over the kafflé, of the excellent effects of my wonderful medicine. During the night we heard a few jackals, whose tracks absolutely covered the sand hills round the castle.
April 7th.—The camels, which had been out on the plain to feed on the bushes, were brought in; and having waited till 1.30. P.M. to rest the people, we loaded, and went on our way. Abd Allah el Bendag, an old Arab, was despatched to Morzouk on a Maherry, to announce the approach of the Sultan. Our camels were loaded with four days’ water; a strong south wind covered us with sand, and the day was uncommonly sultry. Our road lay over a barren desert called Klïa, قليه. The surface, where clear of sand, was of gypsum. At 5 P.M. we passed a remarkable mound of limestone and sand; which, until a very near approach, resembled a white turret, and is called Bazeen, برزين. This name is also applied to the country immediately surrounding it. Our view was bounded on every side by distant yellow hills, appearing to be perfectly destitute of every kind of vegetation. At 11.40. P.M. rested for the night in a sandy wadey, called Boonaja, ابوناجه (or the ewe’s father), having made twenty-two miles south-south-east. This evening, as we rode along, the horsemen amused themselves in skirmishing before Mukni; and the Negroes danced and sang as well as their fatigue would allow them. The Sultan himself took my gun, and rode among his people at full speed, firing at their horses’ feet. All this parade was in consequence of our now being in the kingdom of Fezzan.
April 8th.—At 6 A.M. we left the wadey, and at 7 went through a pass, called Hormut Emhalla, خرموت المخالّه (or the pass of the army.) At 9.20. we passed a range of table mountains, running north-east and south-west, called Elood, الود. The desert here became stony and very uneven; a range of mountains to the southward, two or three miles, running east and west, and forming a crescent to the east of our path: they are called Guatela, قواتله. The westward was an uneven yellow range, distant five or six miles. At 10.5. A.M. we passed the west point of Guatela, our road lying close under the foot of the mountains. At 11 A.M. we turned to the southward and eastward. At 1.15. P.M. passed a conical hill standing apart from the neighbouring mountains, and resembling a tent, called El Khayma, الخيمه. At 5 P.M. entered a pass called Hormut Tuzzēt, حرموت طزّيت. At 6 cleared the pass, and opened on a plain; table mountains bearing south-east, called Matta Imhammed, مته امحمّد. At 6.30. encamped: one of our camels died this day, and three others were, from fatigue, unable to come up; indeed all the camels in the Kafflé were much distressed, not having for several days tasted any kind of food, and our marches were in general long.
April 9th.—At 6.15. A.M. started over a flat, which had no break to the view, except very distant mountains. Two hours and a half from the time of our setting off there is a solitary tree, which is considered as one day’s journey from water. Slaves, in coming from this water, are not allowed to drink until they reach the tree in question, which is one of the longest stages in the journey from Fezzan. The distant mountains had the appellation of Khod el Khādem, خدالخادم (or “take the negress.”) The plain was called El Grarat Arab Hoon, الغرارت عرب حون. At 7 P.M. we entered a pass called Hormut taad atar, خرموت طعداتر. And after passing through a winding wadey, closely hemmed in by the mountains, at 9 we stopped near a well of very brackish, stinking water, situated in a small plain, which here opens out in a circular form. Still no fodder for our camels. A man joined us with some stewed meat for the Sultan, and a load of water, from Sockna; and we procured a bowl of the latter, which afforded us no small treat. The well here, in hot seasons, is dry, and even at this period was very low. The horses, with great avidity, sucked up the mud which was thrown out of it. Strong sand wind from the southward.
April 10th.—At 6.10. A.M. set off. At 7 cleared the pass, and proceeded to a small wadey, where, in spite of a strong Siroc, we succeeded in pitching our tents. The sand, however, flew about in such quantities, that we were unable to prepare any food, and we could not even see thirty yards from us. Mukni took shelter with us, and advised that we should strip to our shirts, as the lightest way of withstanding the sand showers. Mr. Ritchie here presented him with one of our tents, it being much superior to his own. In the afternoon, the wind having a little subsided, we cleared away the heaps of sand which had collected round our goods, and allowed the camels to graze on the small bushes until 3 o’clock. We found, on examining some of our stores, that a large organ had been burst by the heat, and excessive dryness of the wind; a discovery by no means welcome to us. At 3.15. P.M. struck our tent, and again made our way over the plain until 7, when we stopped amongst some palms, which were thickly planted in a range of sand hills. There were two wells of tolerably fresh water at this place, which is called Hammam, حامام. From hence we could easily have made our way to Sockna; but as the Sultan preferred entering in the morning, we were content to stop, and get our heads shaved, as well as to enjoy a good washing, which was very requisite, as we were not over clean. The Sultan’s people were also employed in preparing themselves; and a large convoy of drummers, bag-pipers, and others, joined us in the night, mounted on asses, in order to precede his majesty to his city of Sockna.
April 11th.—At 7 A.M. proceeded with the Sultan and his escort, but found we were sadly in the back-ground with respect to outward appearance. Unfortunately we had not thought it necessary to put on any of our embroidered clothes, having no idea that so much finery was to be displayed; and whilst all the slaves of the Sultan sported their gayest apparel, we were simply habited as Arabs. Mukni was not well pleased at this omission on our part; for as we had the honour of riding on each side of him, and were considered as great men, he wished us to have been as fine and solemn as himself. On coming in sight of the town, the soldiers commenced firing and racing in front of the Sultan, and the musicians struck up such a noise as nearly stunned us. We were shortly joined by another party, who even outdid the first in sound. A number of dancing women then appeared, who, in most fantastic dresses, threw themselves into extraordinary attitudes, crying in their usual shrill manner, and calling down blessings on the Sultan and his family. The armed people who came from the town amounted to about six or seven hundred, not including lookers-on, of at least the same number. The Sultan’s horses, in golden trappings, and led by well dressed slaves, advanced in front, under three silk Tripolitan flags, striped red and yellow horizontally. A curious interruption took place during our progress, in consequence of a man’s horse requiring to stale, when the whole procession, following the example of the Sultan, stopped for him; and we again proceeded with much solemnity. Only two other stoppages took place during the day; once when a band of slaves came and prostrated themselves before Mukni, and at another time when his majesty halted to regale himself with a fresh quid of tobacco. Amongst many laughable incidents which occurred, an unfortunate black drummer was tilted with his drum over the head of the donkey he rode, which ludicrous disaster occasioned much mirth, and even caused Mukni’s state frown to relax. The town’s people, on joining us, advanced in a straight line, until within about a hundred yards, when, firing their muskets, and setting up a loud yell, they rushed forward, and surrounded the Sultan, to kiss his hands. After these ceremonies, they divided themselves into small parties, and expended a great deal of powder in sham fights.