Drawn by J. G. Wilkinson Esqre. from a Sketch taken by the late John Davidson. Drawn on Stone & Printed by P. Gauci, 9, North Crest. Bedford Sqre.

THE RIVER DRAHA.

48 Miles W.S.W. of Wadnoon.

Tuesday, Sept. 6.—Therm. 60°. Had a row with the Sheïkh. Some of the people had stolen my horse’s corn. A cool wind from the N.E. Abú upset the milk I had saved for breakfast. We started at half-past nine, and rode fast for fourteen miles E.N.E., and then due N. Crossed several sand-hills, and saw many gazelles, boars and serpents. At five P.M. came to a small spring of fresh water. My horse has been three days without any, and has had only salt water since the day before he left Wad Nún. We came almost to blows to get a mouthful for him; I was obliged to go without any myself; for as the quantity is so small, it is the law to keep it for human beings alone. We halted for an hour, and then turning a little west, crossed a high range, and came again to El Bushra, where I got a belly-full of milk and of bread which was now mouldy.

Wednesday, Sept. 7.—Therm. 60°. It was arranged for us to return home this evening; but a dispute arose about a spring, and some salt-beds, and the question of war with the Tagakánths and Ergebats detained us the whole day. This conference was one of the most interesting scenes I ever witnessed. Upon one of the poles of the tent were suspended the guns, on the other the sword and cuneas; the Sheïkh stood in the centre, myself at his right hand, and the Kadí on his left; the charges and questions, the animated pleadings, the powerful appeals, &c. together with the noise of those siding with each party, all presented a striking picture. There was some difficulty in settling matters; but all differences were eventually brought to a close by a feast, when I got my milk and laid down.

Thursday, Sept. 8.—Therm. 62°. Off at half-past six. Rode very fast till half-past one, when we halted at the Sheïkh’s garden. We had crossed the Assaka, and came to the Syod, which is here only a ditch. We then lighted a fire, and got some good tea made with fresh water; there was plenty of figs to give a relish to the remainder of the musty bread. I had now travelled hard for ten days, and had eaten nothing but a small piece of fish, dry bread and camel’s milk. I perfectly astonished these people, ............... but was much benefitted and pleased by the trip. Got home at six P.M. when I had coffee and a wash.

Here ends Mr. Davidson’s Journal, from which the notes have been extracted; and the three following letters, addressed to Mr. Willshire, will tell all that his friends have to communicate up to the period of his lamented decease.

“Wad Nún, October 7th 1836.

“Being still in this horrible place, and with little chance of getting away, I should not have written this to-day, had I not been anxious to take advantage of any opportunity of giving you a piece of information which will astonish you. The Tagakánths, notwithstanding all that the Sheïkh ’Abíb and Hámed promised, have not arrived here. Another express has been sent to them; but even after their arrival there is to be a stop: should this prove to be the case, I will give up the project, content to lose all the money I have paid. In twelve days from this, I shall have completed six calendar months here, and during a great part of the time I have been treated worse than a dog. I have told Hámed, and as soon as I can get the Sheïkh and ’Abíb together, I shall tell them likewise, that if I do not start by to-morrow week, I shall insist upon their returning the money they have had; at all events, that Hájí ’Abíb must give me the five hundred dollars he brought, and the camels which have been purchased with my funds; and I must make up my mind to be robbed of the rest. This I have often threatened to do; but now I will act up to my resolves, let what will happen. Zain came yesterday and told me he would wait no longer; that he had engaged some sixty of the Ben Alí tribe, who take twenty-seven men mounted on horses as a flying guard, and who are determined to fight their way through, if necessary; he says he can send me on with the greatest confidence; that unless he was certain of accomplishing the object, he would not risk his brother’s property; but that I must go at once. I shewed him every thing packed up, ready to start at a moment’s notice, and that I was only waiting for some bread that I expected. He asked me how I was situated? I told him of every thing, and that one hundred and ten dollars, including the present premium on the pesettas, had been paid to the Sheïkh for the Tagakánths. He lifted up his hands and said, it ought not to have been more than half that sum. Besides I have brought him, said I, a present amounting to one hundred and eighty dollars, and that he has asked for guns, which will cost him from six to seven hundred dollars more. Moreover, I have promised, if I am satisfied with his conduct, to send him pistols, powder, &c.; that I had left the money in your hands. He got up, and said, it was too bad; but as I had paid the money, it was no use to say anything more; it was gone without the chance of recovery. He thinks, and so do I, that the Sheïkh and his party will give themselves no further trouble about the matter. Zain and his friends are the people, who, as I told you some time since, offered to carry me to Tumbuktú for five hundred dollars, and not to receive any money until they had delivered me there in safety. The third and principal matter I have to communicate is, that Sídí Alí Ben Ilft is gone to join the caravan going to Tumbuktú; he came here last night to tell me so. No sooner, however, was it known in the Sheïkh’s room that he was there, than they sent Hájí ’Abíb to bring him to them. At first he refused to go; but afterwards he went, and then came back and staid with me till late. He says that he will go through all Súdan with me, and even back to England, if I wish it. He begged me to visit him this morning, and I have just left him. He wants me not to hurry the káfilah; and from what I could collect from his conversation with Hámed, he is disposed to give a large sum to delay the káfilah one month longer, and a good sum to delay it twenty days. This he says, is to give him time to arrange his affairs, but I know too well it is to get further instructions from Fez. I have stated decidedly that I will not wait twenty days. This Sídí Alí would be of great use as a protector, but I want none. My mind is made up, I am sorry to say, to leave my bones in Súdán, and it is as firmly made up to make a severe example before I fall. I am determined, on the least treachery I see here or on the road, to fire first, and my pistols never miss. I feel that I am in bad hands here. Close and Moor-like as Sídí Alí is, I wormed out of him that there was some fear lest I should divert a most lucrative trade into another channel. Sídí Alí will not believe that I have paid the sum I stated; so trifling is the hire of camels to Tumbuktú, that they leave it to chance, and even with the salt they are glad to obtain ten mithkáls, not of gold; but merely the ten ............ a camel-load for the salt, including cost and carriage; as it is the back carriage that pays. All here are in great commotion, since they have learnt about Sídí Alí, and they know not what to do. I am sorry for Hájí ’Abíb, who is really concerned about this bad treatment. He complains sadly of the food; and his servant, who has been four times to Tumbuktú, says the dogs there live better than the Sheïkh here. He cannot eat the food, and means to cook for himself. He is preparing a little meat for me, but I cannot buy a pot to put it into. I stated in my last that I was not going to put on any disguise. I have been so accustomed to the dirt and filth in which I have been living for some time past, that it has become quite natural to me. You, perhaps, know more about Khovut than any other person, and when I tell you I have been living in Khotu, sleeping on it for nearly three months, you can form a pretty good idea of my disguise. I never expect to become white again. My beard is very long, my hair is cut close to the head, leaving one long tuft over the left ear, my bare legs and arms are covered with the bites of vermin; my cheek bones are very prominent, and teeth very sharp from having little or nothing to do.

“I have told you a great deal about Sheïkh Berúk, but the finishing stroke was put to it this morning. I yesterday purchased two sheep, to prepare a little meat to serve me either to go or return. After cutting what meat I could off the bones, and putting this aside, one of the slaves was sent from the house to bring them away, there being enough for the dinner, and the small pieces were of no use to me. I asked the girl why she was taking them away? She replied, ‘the Sheïkh had sent her for them.’ This conduct was strongly contrasted with that of Sídí Alí, who sent for Abú, and told him that he had heard I was buying meat, but he would not allow it; there were plenty of people to buy and cook meat for me, if necessary; and he would not have it said, that a stranger was buying his food while he was in their country.

“I am daily at the tents of the Tagakánths, and the ladies, not one, but several, have openly asked me to pass the night with them; an arrangement to which their husbands make not the least objection. The Sheïkh alone, who is no great favourite, is jealous of the little attention shewn to others. Hájí ’Abíb says, he does not know how to manage these people. He is too close-fisted for them.

“Hámed has just been here (Saturday P.M.). I asked him to sit down; he said he was ashamed, and would not sit in my room, till his father came or sent a letter, bidding him to bring me on.

“I wrote a hasty P. S. about the medicines for the Sultán. My friend, G. D———d, tells me that two such chests were never sent from any house: besides the medicines, ............ of silver, glass and copper, mortars of glass and slabs for pills and ointments, I ordered the best work on medicine, the latest on diseases of the eye, and the paper of anatomical figures made at Paris, which are taken to pieces by leaves, and through which the medical schools in Egypt and Persia are taught anatomy, as religious prejudices in those countries do not permit persons to make use of dead subjects for dissection. I likewise ordered several cases of bottles of Seidlitz and other powders for Sídí Ben Alí. All these I know have been sent, and I have paid for them: their non-arrival is owing probably to the want of proper directions to the Káïd of Tangier to forward them on: the matter should be really looked into for the national credit.

“Sunday.—Some observations have been made about my bones, and I was this morning told they were taken to make soup for the Sheïkh’s party in the garden, to which they all thought I should go; but I am too poorly to stir out. At length there is news from the tents, ordering all to be ready on Friday next to leave on Saturday or Sunday. I shall not believe it, till I am really on my camel. I have got no bread as yet.

“Wednesday Evening.—Your welcome letter, with the parcel, reached this place yesterday evening: the messenger wanted to return this day; but I was totally unable to hold a pen yesterday, and can but ill manage writing to-day. Ever since Sunday I have been upon my carpet alarmingly ill. This it appears is the sickly season of Wád Nún: my first attack was ophthalmia. From this the disorder went to the throat, and I had what they call a falling of the palate, and to such an extent, that, after finding no relief from strong blisters and gargling, and fearing suffocation, I was about to cut a hole in my throat to admit of breathing; but Hájí ’Abíb, the Sheïkh, the Jews, &c. all begged me to try the remedy of the country; and for the last two days I have had a stick covered with tar poked down my throat, and have inhaled the fumes of boiled tar twice or thrice a-day. I am now wonderfully better, and am able to speak and swallow hot liquids, though I cannot the saliva. The quantity of this secretion has quite astonished me: there has been a continued discharge for hours together, and amounting during the night to above a quart. Hámed has been particularly attentive, and so have all; and all have been frightened not a little. To-day I have had some severe palpitations, for which, if they return, I shall bleed myself till I faint, and repeat this as often as nature will allow. I do, perhaps, wrong in writing, but I know your kindness and good feeling would make you more anxious, should you hear of my illness through any other channel.

“I am sorry I cannot answer your questions. Nobody knows when we are to go: Hámed says, it is not the Sheïkh’s fault; that the times are difficult. His father will be here to-morrow or the day after; and we shall start the next day. If he comes to-night, we shall be off to-morrow. I have sent Abú to see about some cakes from the Jews. The letters to England must have miscarried, as there were some private ones of mine that would certainly have been answered.

“I have been obliged to coin an answer to the Sheïkh, and telling him that it will be time enough to think of commercial intercourse, as soon as he should have performed his engagements with me, and for the execution of which he had been paid before hand. He begins to feel alarmed, and is half ashamed of himself. I cannot write now what he has disclosed; but I shall be at him again before the messenger departs.

“Friday night.—I am much better, although I do not consider myself quite out of danger. I was obliged to make four incisions in the throat by the knife, before I could obtain relief. I will go to-morrow, if the people come, of which there appears but little chance. I would readily step into the grave to get away from this place; the thought of dying here, to be plundered by the Sheïkh and his crew of vagabonds, annoys me more than my bodily sufferings. Abú is quite useless: his fear makes him totally helpless; but this only serves to rouse me. Hájí Abíb’s servant, Fahir, has certainly saved me for the present. This strange fellow wants to leave his master, and come to me. I do not think this would be fair on my part; I shall, however, sound his master on the subject, who first made the offer for me to take him: but I believe the wretches here do not wish the boy to go back to Súdán, as he knows too many of their dirty tricks. One circumstance alone keeps up my spirits; all my predecessors started in good health and failed. Bruce, in whose career and my own are many singular coincidences, started in nearly the same shattered state of health, after a detention in Abyssinia of six months, as I do now, and yet he succeeded; and so, perhaps, may I; but my hopes are very faint.

“Saturday, four P.M.—I have this day spoken again to the Sheïkh; but he fights shy of every question. I shall, therefore, tell Abíb to-night, that I cannot stand this trifling any longer, and that on Monday I expect to have my money returned. It is all nonsense that I cannot get through Súdán before the rainy season commences, and it would be certain death in my state of health to think of braving them out. I have been shamefully used. The Sheïkh and Majíbí have played this game to suit their own views, without caring a straw for you or me: the former came snivelling about his expectation of a ship arriving, and that traders would be glad to come here. I told him that nobody believed in his power, and that the best proof of his weakness was his inability to send me on. I perceive that you have a great idea of his influence; but a week’s residence here would convince you, that with the exception of his own immediate dependants, not a soul would go out of the way to serve him; he is a mean, low, avaricious, and crafty savage; an arrant coward, and one who grudges even the barley that is daily served out for brute and beast. There is often more disturbance about overfilling the measure, than would take place in England if the Bank had failed. You seem to think there is some danger in his taking offence: you need not fear on that head, as he knows that he would then have to give the money back again.

“Sunday, P.M.—I have told the Sheïkh, that as the 15th October is now past, my orders were to wait no longer; and that as the Taghakánths had not made their appearance, I expected he would either return the money, or send me on, or let me take my own steps for proceeding to Tumbuktú. I had just laid down, after having read the prayers, and while Abú was at the market, when I heard some high words outside of the door, and in came the Sheïkh, Abíb, and Hámed. The first was foaming with rage; the second blushing up to his turban; while Hámed was sinking to the ground, like one doomed to die. All were talking, and in my weak state it was too much for me: being, however, an old soldier in argument, and finding all the party in anger, I kept myself more than ordinary cool. As soon as I could get them to speak one at a time, I found that some reports from Suweïrah had reached this place, accusing the Sheïkh of having played the rogue, and of having kept half the money of the Taghakánths for himself; and that the scandal had even extended to Fez. The Sheïkh asked, in a threatening manner, if Hámed had told me so. Perceiving that the doom of the poor lad would be fixed, if I told the truth, I was obliged to deny it. Had I not done so, the Sheïkh, I am certain, would have killed the lad on the spot. The Sheïkh then broke out in no measured terms against all of us; and though he confessed I had good reason to complain, he swore he had not taken a single morznum for himself; and that he would not allow his character to be trifled with. He said tauntingly, that all he had of mine was a gun, a caftan, and three suílhams; and he would give them back, and I might make out my bill for the other things, and he would pay for them. At this juncture Abú returned, and I requested him to tell the Sheïkh, that I was not a merchant, and knew nothing about bills; that if he found any difficulty in fulfilling his engagements, my bill was a very simple one; he had only to return the 1,000 dollars in pesetas, and the 350 paid to Hámed, and to send me back to the place from whence he brought me; that I did not care to go on, as it was plain he could not insure my safety. This quite cooled him; and he turned round to poor Hámed, and bade him get his horse; ride to the tents; bring his father and people, and let them answer me. The poor fellow was shipped off by Abíb, who now took up the subject, and stated that the Sheïkh’s character had been injured by a report, said to have come from you, that he has taken the Taghakánths’ money, and was now unwilling to send me on. Upon this there was lots of swearing, &c., and the Sheïkh became so warm, that he drank about a gallon of water, and left us, saying that, if the Taghakánths did not come in ten or fifteen days at farthest, he would take me back to Agadír. As soon as he was gone, I told Abíb that, from the size of the parcels given me to keep by Mohammed El Abd and Hámed Mulid, I did believe they had received one-half of the amount, and that you were to send the second half to me and not to the Sheïkh, and I would pay it over to the Taghakánths, or to him, if they stated they had received the whole sum. At this moment the Sheïkh returned, and muttered something about the Taghakánths owing him money, and that if he had paid himself, it was the same as paying it to them. This is probably what led Hámed to believe and say that the Sheïkh had paid only half, and had kept the remainder for himself. Hámed was now left alone with us. He said the Sheïkh would murder him, if he knew that it was he who had spread the report. He then left me to get his horse; but the order was countermanded, and he is now with me eating some bread, and watering it with his tears. Abíb says, he does not know what to do; but hopes that I will wait the fifteen days. Sídí Alí Ben Ilft told Abú in the market to-day, that if we get away in less than a month, he would give me leave to cut off his head. There is certainly some by-play here. This Sídí Alí has been using every means to dissuade me, and there is no doubt that his going is connected with my movements. I am sorry I can give you no certain news about the Spanish slaves. The man left here nearly a month ago, and seemed very careless about the matter, when he found that he was not to have a present or money before starting. I am making Abú collect whatever information he can pick up. News has just been brought that the Taghakánths are moving their tents, as the Ergebats have threatened to fall upon the káfilah as soon as it starts, to wreak their vengeance for the last attack. I am happy to tell you I am much better; but this blow of the Simúm, with which, it appears, I have been struck, has been very serious. I have a low ague; but feel too much pain in the chest when I cough to venture upon quinine. Between ourselves I have reason to be glad of this delay. I have had a little cake made by the Jews, but very indifferent and dear; I hope I shall now get the bread.”

The next letter, which is the last that was written from Wád Nún, relates some of the circumstances to which allusion is made by Mr. Willshire, and which have been already printed in the Journal of the Geographical Society. It is dated

“Saturday, Nov. 5, 1836.

“My pen almost refuses to write Wád Nún. Your kind letter reached me this morning, and I can answer it in better spirits, because I am happy to say my health is improving fast; but I cannot say much about my confidence in the success of the enterprize. The start is to be on Monday; although I do not go on that day. Every thing is now packed up, and ready to be placed upon the camels, with which Abú starts at day-break on Monday. I am to be left here, as if I had sent him on; Mohammed El Abd remains behind. On Wednesday or Thursday, according to the distance made by the camels the first day, we start on horseback, accompanied by the Sheïkh Berúk, and about a half-dozen horsemen, and we are to make Yeist, if possible, in one day. There I leave the district of Wád Nún; and to that place is a three days’ journey for loaded camels. I there leave my horse, and mount my camel, and we push on to the tents. It has been positively stated to the Sheïkh, that we are to stop only the night at the tents; but this is false: I have become so used to the language of the Taghakánths, that I understand more than they think; and I heard that we should be there two or three days at least, if not more. The journey is to be made in the shortest time possible. Berúk says thirty days; my conductor, however, adds five or six; to this, he says, that we shall go as a post, and form a party of only five, including Abú and myself.

“Mohammed El Abd came again at night, and there was again a sort of grumbling about the expense. I asked why I was to pay 230 mithkáls for a camel, when the usual hire for a káfilah was only from ten to twelve? This was a silencer. Instead of being the lions of the desert, they are only the jackals, and pay tribute to even a single Arab, who happens to cross them on the route. The Woobd Allah (Zeïn’s people) are the persons with whom I ought to have gone: they are still waiting here, and Zeïn has started this morning for Akka, to know the reason. I have at last got the account of the things I have purchased here, and which I have signed, requesting you to pay the amount to Abíb. It is fifty-one and a-half dollars, to which will be added the price of a thick haïk, if one can be procured.

“Night.—Mohammed El Abd has been here again, and I have read to him what I have written to you, and added, that all will now look to him, not only to protect me, but to send me on. He shewed me his letters to the two principal persons, and one of them is the great Marabout, whose word alone is enough to protect me. His letters state, that I am an Englishman; that the English have been always the friends of the Mussulman; that they are all their support; for they buy all the produce, and furnish all the things that are consumed in this country.

“Berúk is so proud of the very idea of a ship coming to his territory, that he has ordered Hájí Abíb to write to every body who can assist us in the least. He brings me new milk with his own hand; he is here ever and anon, and by keeping a jog upon his responsibility, all may yet be well. I have quite frightened Mohammed El Abd, by telling him of our power to stop the trade, and to make him personally responsible, if I am detained even at Tumbuktú.

“Midnight.—My party remained here very late; I feel that after the dressing I gave my conductor this morning, I have got once more the upper hand of all the party, and will now keep it. To-day I have parted with all my hair, the last remains but one of Christian appearance, and taken up the Tisbeah. On Monday I shall have to do without an interpreter, and on Wednesday, it is now said, we are to put on the turban and start. You shall hear from the tents, if possible; but this is not a very easy matter, as there are four tribes at war on the route, and no man dares go singly: as much as eleven mithkáls have been refused to carry a letter; but I suppose that for his own sake, the Sheïkh will arrange this. Abú is quite well, but not in the highest spirits. Let me assure you once more how grateful I am for all the trouble and anxiety you have taken in this matter. May Heaven bless and reward you and yours, and may we meet again in good old England, and there over our honest glass talk over the difficulties we have conquered. I do not wish to boast too much; but I do feel that few men would have gone through even what I have suffered already, and God knows I have much before me yet: but a merciful Providence has hitherto preserved me through many and great dangers, and on this I firmly rely.”

At last, after a delay of nearly seven months, Mr. D. was fairly en route for the goal of his travels—Tumbuktú. But he had scarcely entered the desert, when he perished by the hand of the assassin. His last letter is the following, dated

“Yeist, Tuesday, November 15th, 1836.

“This is the fourth day since my arrival here, and as yet I am uncertain about getting on. Having a spare hour to myself, for all the town have gone out in the expectation of an attack, I take the opportunity of writing up my journal. We did not actually start on Monday, as I stated, but all was in readiness, and we began by moving our things on that day. I had long predicted that there would be no rain, till I was allowed to depart; a prediction that turned out true to the letter. On Tuesday, scarcely had the remainder of the baggage been moved to the tents, and the horses saddled, when it rained in such torrents as to make it impossible to set out. It was, therefore, arranged for myself to start at midnight with the horse party, and for Abú to follow at break of day with the camels and baggage. The whole night was, however, passed in discussing what route we should take, and day had fairly dawned before all preparations were completed. We all started about seven A.M., but took different routes out of the town. I was accompanied by the Sheïkh Berúk and Hájí Abíb to the hill outside the town, where they took leave of me, and I was then committed to the care of the Sheïkh Mohammed El Abd, and Hámed Mulid. The superior conduct and character of these persons as compared with that of Berúk, his son and escort, was greatly in favour of the Taghakánths. But now let me give you a little pleasing information. At the eleventh hour nothing could exceed the attention and assurances of the Sheïkh and Hájí Abíb. The former in giving me into the hands of the Taghakánths, said, ‘He placed me in their hands as his own flesh and blood; if any thing happened to me, it would happen to him; I had done much for them. He counted upon making a name through me. I had waited long; and that now there was to be no delay, but to go on at once to the journey’s end, and that Mohammed El Abd was to return post haste with a letter, informing them of my safe arrival.’ I heard from his conversation here last night, that if he gets back to Wád Nún in three months, Berúk is to give him one hundred mithkáls of gold. Hájí Abíb wrote all the letters, and helped to pack up, and was much more nervous than I should be if I were going to the scaffold. I found that Abú had packed up my Suilham; but as it was said that I must have one, although I had three Haìks, Hájí Abíb took off his own, which he compelled me to accept. I told him I should write to you to get him another, which I pray you will have the goodness to do.

“I shall not say one word about our journey to Tinzerat, which were two days of misery and annoyance, owing to my companions, who thank God, returned on Friday morning. I was then given in charge to Sheïkh Hammó, and a party of twenty horse came from Yeist to Tinzerat to bring us here. Sheïkh Berúk’s horse was sent back, and I was mounted on one of Hammó’s, with a long gun placed in my hand, and haíked up to the mouth. We were off at eight A.M. On the road we were joined by twelve more, making our party, including the Taghakánths and self thirty-six, who were whooping, firing and galloping, to frighten the Haràmis, the road being very dangerous. A beautiful ride of eight hours brought us in sight of this place. Hammó, with twenty horsemen, pushed into the town. On entering it accompanied by Sheïkh Bel Aide, and another person, he rode up towards myself and fired off his gun at my horse’s feet. The whole place was out under arms. I rode up between two files of men with their arms; and on entering the gate leading to his house, two men mounted, with their guns crossed, made their appearance. Here he halted, and called for powder, when a grand volley was fired, which was followed by the screams of the ladies on the house-tops; and then turning to me said, ‘Well, Christian, is this the proper way to receive and treat you?’ I was then taken to his house, where with his own hands he swept the court-yard and spread a carpet, and told me I was welcome, and bade me ask for whatever I wanted. Milk, and dates fresh from the trees, were then brought me, and all to my perfect satisfaction. Early on Saturday he came to say, that a camel was ready for me, if I wished to start. I found Zein here, who had been unable to get his people on, although they swore that nothing should stop them. They allege that the state of the roads is so bad, as all the tribes are at war; and though the different caravans are said to amount to near five hundred men and three thousand camels, they cannot get on. Zeïn left yesterday for Akka to bring his people here to accompany me, if possible, as it is now settled that I am not to go to the tents at all, but make direct for the Sahrá, and proceed to Tumbuktú without seeing even a tent or a single person. We have just finished a consultation, when it was determined to start on Thursday night. The journey will be accomplished in a very short time, as the camels are to drink only six times. How we are to manage I know not, as we can carry but little of any thing, and from all appearances I fear there will be no káfilah this year. All are in great alarm. Mohammed El Abd has learned that people are on the look-out at the tents for my arrival, and it has been told them that I am coming for certain with the káfilah; which is accordingly to be delayed here for three or four days, so that we shall be a good week on the road before it is known that we have got off. I am happy to say that I have picked up amazingly, and have now no fears about my health. I should have liked your glass of wine, but it did not reach me. Hájí Abíb will bring back the horse and my gun, of which the latter is to be sent to England; but unless you can do it easily, not till you hear from me at Tumbuktú. Mohammed El Abd says he wants to go to Suweïrah, and shall carry my letter to you himself and say, there is the letter from Yel Yayha: the Taghakánths have kept their word; God grant that he may.

“Evening. The people have returned. One man was killed, and another shot through the arm on the road we passed on Friday.

“Wednesday, 16.—The answer from the Woobed Allah, which was expected this morning, has not arrived. Mohammed El Abd says, that if they do not come here as written for, he will start to-morrow night or Friday morning without them. They were intended to form an escort for the three first days. The attention and civilities of my host continue unabated. I suspect, however, that the Taghakánths live so poorly in their own quarters, that they are loath to leave any place where there is good food and no paying for it. By our present arrangements we shall save nearly six days, as the tents are not in the direct route. It is, however, impossible to get any certain answers or information to be depended upon. Changes take place every hour not only in places, but in persons; and the man, who at one time was as true as the sun, and to be trusted with any thing, is at another a thief and haràmi.”

“P.M.—The son of the Marabout Sheïkh has arrived with a party of horse, who are to escort us across the Wad Draha, and one day beyond.

“You must, my kind friend, excuse me for again adverting to one of my former letters. But the great interest you have taken in the success of my enterprise, and the immense trouble you have had, demands every possible return on my part. I am still in the district of Wád Nún, where I can assure Sheïkh Berúk is scouted and laughed at by all. Every body thinks with me, that he is worth nothing: that he is speculating with the property of others; his whole tribe, excepting Hájí Abíb, are bad, low and disreputable. Do not let him overdraw too much, or you will be a loser. His life is not a good one, and as to his sons they are the greatest rips I ever saw. Every step we have taken from his cursed place, we have found the people improved, far more liberal and hospitable, and although they are rather savage, they exhibit a nobleness of character, of which there is not a particle in the family of Berúk. If I mistake not, Seyd Boazer will open your eyes as to this crew.

“Night.—All is at length settled, and we start to-morrow morning at the break of day. I believe the káfilah will be allowed to proceed, although one mithcal a head is to be paid, and we have fifty persons and one hundred camels. I am unable to tell you for certain the route we are to take, as it will depend upon circumstances. Only two persons beside Mohammed El Abd accompany us, so that after all the talk at Wád Nún, I shall go in my original party of five, including Abú and myself. I fear there is much suffering before us, as no preparation has been made for any kind of food by the Taghakánths. Berúk put up for us one canter of rice, and one of barley; but El Abd can eat about six pounds a day. There are no milk camels here; and as we do not go to the tents, I fear I shall be deprived of this luxury. It is said, however, that one has been sent for, and is to meet us, I hope in good time. I knew from the first my route was the most difficult and dangerous; but it has far exceeded my expectations.”

In a postscript Mr. D. adds—“All are in bustle and all in fear, but Abú and myself;” and yet in a letter dated Wád Nún, October 7th 1836, he says—“My mind is made up to the certainty that I shall leave my bones in Sudán.” Still with all these misgivings his zeal in the cause of science never abated one jot. “Before this reaches you,” he says, “I shall be wending my way over Africa’s burning sands to a sort of fame, or the sad ‘bourne from which no traveller returns;’ if to the former, truly happy shall I be to renew your valued friendship; but if to the latter, think sometimes of the poor lost wanderer.”

The laurel of fame to which Mr. D. aspired, was he feared reserved for a more successful adventurer in the person of Monsr. Antoine D’Abbadie, who said in the rooms of the Royal Society, that he should give Mr. D. the go-by in Sudán, that he had been ten years preparing himself for the trip, and had come to London to get an English passport, as he intended to travel à l’Anglaise, for the French were in bad odour amongst the natives of Africa, in consequence of their forcible occupation of the country. “He was,” says Mr. D. “a good naturalist, and astronomer, and had ample means at his command, insomuch that he purposed, like Monsr. le Baron Taylor, to travel en Prince with his servants in hose and doublet, &c. But think you that I who wear the sword-belt of his Britannic Majesty’s Agent and Consul General, high and exalted in fame and dignity, will allow myself to be beaten by a Frenchman! If I do I’ll— No, I never swear. Abú shall make kuskasu of me first.” To the preceding specimen of the liveliness of Mr. D.’s mind, may be added the following. “Your Excellency’s writing and mine remind me of the old proverb—‘Tel Padron, tel Secretoire.’ I will, however, back yours to be the most difficult. This is as it should be. The disciple must not be above his master. You will say I write hard scratches. I know it—I have only steel pens.” So too when speaking of some extract of camomile sent from Gibraltar, he remarks that “the druggist ought to present it to the Society of Antiquarians, and accompany it with a paper to prove that it was some of the veritable remains of the medicine chest, that Noah carried with him into the Ark. Its antiquity would give a fair colour for the assertion.”

Mr. D., however, could at times act the philosopher as well as the punster. At the conclusion of the account of his trip to Wád Draha, he says,—“I am in better health than ever, and never was in better condition. The Sheïkh backs me to win. I worked harder than any man, and never once touched meat; out-walked all, out-rode some, slept less than any, and never but once lost my temper. The people in this district are between the Moors and the Arabs, and the hardest to manage. I cannot tell half the pleasure and profit I have derived from this excursion. I have visited a large track of country, quite unknown to Europeans, and have seen much of Arab life; heard their discussions on politics, and the stories of their bards, who are wont to beguile away an hour or two of the night together, with a history of the migrations of the various tribes. I can now compare the Western Arab with his brother of the East. I have for some time made up my mind that happiness is ideal; that to too many of us it is ‘the gay to-morrow of the mind, which never comes.’ If any people, however, can be justly called happy, the Arabs on the borders of the Sahara are so. Confident in the power of their religion to gain them Paradise; creating for themselves no artificial wants, and perfectly satisfied with what nature provides for them, they calmly resign themselves to the will of Providence, and are strangers to all care. I am neither a missionary nor a cobler, and have nothing to do with the care of souls or soles; but I really feel that any attempt to alter the course of these people’s lives might be fairly met with the observation of the Satirist, who knew human nature so well.

Pol me occidistis, amici,
Non servastis, ait; cui sic extorta voluptas
Et demptus per vim menti gratissimus error.”

In allusion to the few wants of the Arab Mr. D. says in a loose memorandum, “His camels not only carry his wives, children, and tent, but feed them; his cows enable him to sell two or three jars of butter, and his fowls a basket of eggs weekly; his sheep will give him twenty-five lambs annually beyond what he consumes; the wool from them gives him from four to six haicks and a carpet; his barley feeds his cattle while vegetation ceases, and some of it is sown to re-produce and make his kuskasu.”


Various detached Notes at the end of Mr. Davidson’s Journal.[126]

The Mazzabibs’ dwelling between Tangier and Algiers at Wady Mezzal, are called Moaterzelites, i.e. dissenters. They refuse to pay reverence to the companions of the prophet. Their language is Berber. All the people in the desert are familiar with the art of making gunpowder; they collect the earth and mortar of ruined towns. From this they make a ley, which is boiled until it acquires consistency: with one pound of it are mixed four pounds of sulphur, and four pounds of charcoal made from the oleander-wood. These ingredients are kept together for three hours, and the powder is fit for use. In D’jebel Eesay they find a considerable quantity of lead.

The word sibkah is used for salt plots (pits), of which there are many.

In the Wady Souf, between Tibat and Ghadames, many meherries, i.e. swift dromedaries, are bred.

In Ghadames there are many ulemmas and talebs, i.e. writers.

In Matemater, Coptic is said to be the language in use.

In Terjgiert, there is a people called Medjehrah, of Jewish extraction, who, to escape death, embraced Islamism. They have the peculiar Jewish features, and the Arabs say, their houses have the Jewish smell. They live in quarters set apart for themselves; but they do not intermarry: they are scribes and merchants, but are never raised to the office of káid or imaum: they do not observe Friday as the Sabbath. The great drink here is made from the date.

In both Rife and Suse, the Jews go armed: they are, however, the property of the Moors, who arm, and send them out as a sort of substitute, and by whom they are supported, and allowed a greater liberty than at Tangiers. In the mountains in the neighbourhood of Tangiers, the Jews act as guards to conduct the Moors. They have all a master, whose shoe they carry, which serves as a protection. They pay tribute, not in money, but in work, the Moors finding the former. The principal trade is in grain and oil: the masters are Berbers, all of whom ride mules. Every douar has its sheïkh and káid, who are Moors, and possessing each a jurisdiction, but not the power of punishing in all cases. Their religious worship is the same as the other, but little cared about. In the whole valley there may be about five hundred. They have their sacred books, synagogue, and rabbi; and they make a pilgrimage to the tombs, distant two and three days’ journey. All the douars have large vineyards, and manufactories of haicks, carpets, &c. which are sent to Tangier. They do not speak Arabic, but Berber or Shelluh.

The Arabs evidently borrowed their letters and their power in pronunciation, and numerical value, from the Hebrews. But the arrangement of the two differs entirely. From the circumstance of the Shelluh or Berber having a greater affinity to the Hebrew than the Arabic, I am led to believe the Shelluh more ancient than the Arabic. The Berbers are the aborigines of Barbary: they extend over an immense space. They have a settlement at Wadan, another at Sausaceding (Susee-dan), and Yamina: they are to be found likewise in Houssa. I presume that Berbera on the eastern coast must contain the same people. During my visit there, I had an opportunity at getting at their language, of which there are several dialects, between the northern and southern range of the Atlas. That of Marocco and the north is very different from that of the Sahara and Súdán, which is very pure. There is, however, a greater difficulty in writing and reading the latter, where the diacritical points are often transposed or omitted.

The washing of the dead is performed thus: a large sheet is thrown over the body, a man then wraps his right arm and hand in a napkin, water is then poured on the sheet, through which it passes to the body; the right side is first washed, then the left, next the back, and then the front; sticks are laid under and over the body to prevent the earth from touching it.

Ablutions are performed with sand in the desert, and sometimes even in the house to save the trouble of fetching water. This sand bath has given rise to the saying, that “sand is useless where water is plentiful.”

The Fash-hook which produces the Ammoniacum does not extend in any quantity beyond Agadeer, nor is there much below Suweïrrah, the Derjmuse, or Euphorbium occupying its place.

The urine taken from camels which are giving suck, and drunk warm, is used as a purgative, and to increase the appetite.

Of the serpents the Busk-ah (black serpent) is most dreaded; although the poison of the Ef-ah (the yellow spotted one) is the most active in operation. The former is, however, very irritable and quick in its movements. I saw one June 8th.

The Camelion (Tatta) is very common about Wad Nún, and is called the serpent’s enemy.

One of those strange animals between a bull and a female ass was seen at Wád Nún: it is called jemmel. There is likewise a breed between the bull and mare.

The falling sickness, and the being possessed by a spirit, are diseases not known at Wád Nún.

The Tigghi, a small fish, like the sand-eel is found in most of the rivers of Súdán. The effect produced by this on the system is very curious. Like the torpedo or gymnotus lumbricus it paralizes the whole body, and takes away the senses for nearly half-an-hour. It is about eight inches long, and is much dreaded by the people. The common mode of taking fish is to put into the water a quantity of the Yeghan Touno, a small tree about five feet high. This intoxicates the fish, and renders them blind, when they are easily caught.

There are great quantities of Crocodiles of a large size, and hosts of Alligators. The gall of the former is always taken out and burnt, as it is supposed to poison the water. The Kaaux has a smooth skin but is in other respects like the Crocodile. The Kooroom lives entirely on land, and is similar to the Guana. Hippopotami abound in the rivers of Kong, and are called Máleh or D’jero Máleh. Their flesh, which is eaten, is considered a delicacy: they come out of the water about four P.M., and are easily taken. Darquey, the animal between the bull and mare, is likewise eaten: it is large as a horse and is very fleet. There is an animal about the size of a large dray-horse, red with white stripes and two horns turning back, called the Daramah, or Sukotelly: they go in large herds, and are very good eating. There are also elephants, called m’hoor-do, out of number. Of the Sinsi the meat is not eaten; it is hunted chiefly for its eggs. The Tange is somewhat of the same species, but much larger: others called Song are like small red heifers; but they never leave the banks of rivers. The hyenas, called Minna, are in great numbers. The Japp is like a small goat. There is a very beautiful species of Antelope, jet black, called Tuba. The Giraffe is seen frequently, but it does not come near the towns; they are, however, much sought after by the rich (Congo Yomee). Buffaloes, called Siggi, are found here together with musk-rats, &c. Of birds there are bustards, wild turkies, eagles and vultures. The kites will take the meat out of the people’s hands.

The direction of the Letter to Hámed Libbú.

Please the high God, it will reach the hand of the great King, who now possesses high authority and high fame, exalted in person and rank:—the Sultán Hámed Libbú, the lord of the city Tumbuktú, renowned in Africa. May God continue his assistance, and comfort him. Amen.


[The following letter was addressed to Lieut. Holland, commanding H.M.S. Scorpion, which vessel was sent to carry dispatches and presents to Mr. Davidson: but owing to the very rough weather, and the state of the bar at the entrance of the river, they were unable to land on the coast near Wad Nún. It is inserted here, as it helps to shew the great interest felt in the geography of the country which Mr. Davidson was so anxious to explore.]