My master grew weaker daily, and the weather was insufferably hot, the thermometer being, in the coolest place, 107 at twelve in the morning, and 109 at three in the afternoon. At his own suggestion I made a couch for him outside the hut, in the shade, and placed a mat for myself by its side. For five successive days I took him in my arms from his bed in the hut to the couch outside, and back again at sunset, after which time he was too much debilitated to be lifted from the bed on which he lay. He attempted to write once, and but once, during his illness; but before paper and ink could be brought him, he had sunk back on his pillow, completely exhausted by his ineffectual attempt to sit up in his bed. Fancying by various symptoms he had been poisoned, I asked him one day whether he thought that, in any of his visits to the Arabs or Tuaricks, any poisonous ingredients had been put into the camel’s milk they had given him, of which he was particularly fond. He replied, “No, my dear boy; no such thing has been done, I assure you. Do you remember,” he continued, “that when on a shooting excursion at Magaria, in the early part of February, after walking the whole of the day, exposed to the scorching rays of the sun, I was fatigued, and lay down under the branches of a tree for some time? The earth was soft and wet, and from that hour to the present I have not been free from cold: this has brought on my present disorder, from which, I believe, I shall never recover.”
For twenty days my poor master remained in a low and distressed state. He told me he felt no pain; but this was spoken only to comfort me, for he saw I was dispirited. His sufferings must have been acute. During this time he was gradually, but perceptibly, declining; his body, from being robust and vigorous, became weak and emaciated, and indeed was little better than a skeleton. I was the only person, with one exception, he saw in his sickness. Abderachman, an Arab from Fezzan, came to him one day, and wished to pray with him, after the manner of his countrymen, but was desired to leave the apartment instantly. His sleep was uniformly short and disturbed, and troubled with frightful dreams. In them he frequently reproached the Arabs aloud with much bitterness; but being an utter stranger to the language, I did not understand the tenor of his remarks. I read to him daily some portions of the New Testament, and the ninety-fifth Psalm, which he was never weary of listening to, and on Sundays added the church service, to which he invariably paid the profoundest attention. The constant agitation of mind and exertions of body I had myself undergone for so long a time, never having in a single instance slept out of my clothes, weakened me exceedingly, and a fever came on not long before my master’s death, which hung upon me for fifteen days, and ultimately brought me to the very verge of the grave. Finding myself unequal to pay that attention to my master’s wants which his situation so particularly required, I solicited and obtained his consent to have old Pascoe once more to assist me. On entering the hut, he fell on his knees, and prayed to be forgiven, promising to be faithful to my master’s service. Master immediately pardoned him, and said he would forget all that had passed, if he conducted himself well: by this means the washing and all the drudgery was taken from my shoulders, and I was enabled to devote all my time and attention to my master’s person. I fanned him for hours together, and this seemed to cool the burning heat of his body, of which he repeatedly complained. Almost the whole of his conversation turned upon his country and friends, but I never heard him regret his leaving them; indeed he was patient and resigned to the last, and a murmur of disappointment never escaped his lips.
On the 1st of April, he became considerably worse, and though evidently in want of repose, his sleep became more and more disturbed. He swallowed eight drops of laudanum, four times a day, for three days; but finding it did him not the least benefit, he discontinued taking it altogether: this, with the exception of two papers of Seidlitz powders and four ounces of Epsom salts, was the only medicine he had during his illness. On the 9th, Maddie, a native of Bornou, whom master had retained in his service, brought him about twelve ounces of green bark from the butter tree, and said it would do him much good. Notwithstanding all my remonstrances, master immediately ordered a decoction of it to be prepared, observing, “No man will injure me.” Accordingly Maddie himself boiled two basins-full, the whole of which he drank in less than an hour. Next morning he was much altered for the worse, and regretted his not having followed my advice. About twelve o’clock of the same day, he said, “Richard, I shall shortly be no more; I feel myself dying.” Almost choked with grief, I replied, “God forbid, my dear master: you will live many years yet.” “Don’t be so much affected, my dear boy, I entreat you,” said he: “it is the will of the Almighty; it cannot be helped. Take care of my journal and papers after my death; and when you arrive in London, go immediately to my agents, send for my uncle, who will accompany you to the Colonial Office, and let him see you deposit them safely into the hands of the secretary. After I am buried, apply to Bello, and borrow money to purchase camels and provisions for your journey over the desert, and go in the train of the Arab merchants to Fezzan. On your arrival there, should your money be exhausted, send a messenger to Mr. Warrington, our consul at Tripoli, and wait till he returns with a remittance. On reaching Tripoli, that gentleman will advance what money you may require, and send you to England the first opportunity. Do not lumber yourself with my books; leave them behind, as well as the barometer, boxes, and sticks, and indeed every heavy article you can conveniently part with; give them to Malam Mudey, who will take care of them. The wages I agreed to give you my agents will pay, as well as the sum government allowed me for a servant; you will of course receive it, as Columbus has never served me. Remark what towns or villages you pass through; pay attention to whatever the chiefs may say to you, and put it on paper. The little money I have, and all my clothes, I leave you: sell the latter, and put what you may receive for them into your pocket; and if, on your journey, you should be obliged to expend it, government will repay you on your return.” I said, as well as my agitation would permit me, “If it be the will of God to take you, you may rely on my faithfully performing, as far as I am able, all that you have desired; but I trust the Almighty will spare you, and you will yet live to see your country.” “I thought I should at one time, Richard,” continued he; “but all is now over; I shall not be long for this world: but God’s will be done.” He then took my hand betwixt his, and looking me full in the face, while a tear stood glistening in his eye, said, in a low but deeply affecting tone, “My dear Richard, if you had not been with me, I should have died long ago; I can only thank you, with my latest breath, for your kindness and attachment to me, and if I could have lived to return with you, you should have been placed beyond the reach of want; but God will reward you.” This conversation occupied nearly two hours, in the course of which my master fainted several times, and was distressed beyond measure. The same evening he fell into a slumber, from which he awoke in much perturbation, and said he had heard with much distinctness the tolling of an English funeral bell: I entreated him to be composed, and observed that sick people frequently fancy they hear and see things which can possibly have no existence. He made no reply.
About six o’clock in the morning of the 11th, on asking how he did, my master answered he was much better, and requested me to shave him. He had not sufficient strength to lift his head from the pillow; and after finishing one side of the face, I was obliged to turn his head, in order to shave the other. As soon as it was done, he desired me to fetch him a looking-glass which hung on the other side of the hut. On seeing himself in it, he observed that he looked quite as ill at Bornou, on his former journey; and as he had borne his disorder so long a time, he might yet recover. On the following day he still fancied himself getting better. I began to flatter myself, also, that he was considerably improved. He eat a bit of hashed guinea-fowl in the day, which he had not done before since his illness, deriving his sole sustenance from a little fowl-soup and milk and water. On the morning of the 13th, however, being awake, I was much alarmed by a peculiar rattling noise, proceeding from my master’s throat, and his breathing was loud and difficult; at the same instant he called out “Richard!” in a low and hurried tone. I was immediately at his side, and was astonished at seeing him sitting upright in his bed, and staring wildly around. I held him in my arms, and placing his head gently on my left shoulder, gazed a moment on his pale and altered features: some indistinct expressions quivered on his lips; he strove, but ineffectually, to give them utterance, and expired without a struggle or a sigh. When I found my poor master so very ill, I called out with all my strength, “O God, my master is dying!” which brought Pascoe and Mudey into the apartment. Shortly after the breath had left his body, I desired Pascoe to fetch some water, with which I washed the corpse. I then got Pascoe and Mudey to assist me in taking it outside of the hut, laid it on a clean mat, and wrapped it in a sheet and blanket. Leaving it in this state two hours, I put a large clean mat over the whole, and sent a messenger to Sultan Bello, to acquaint him of the mournful event, and ask his permission to bury the body after the manner of my own country, and also to know in what particular place his remains were to be interred. The messenger soon returned with the sultan’s consent to the former part of my request; and about 12 o’clock at noon of the same day a person came into my hut, accompanied by four slaves, sent by Bello to dig the grave. I was desired to follow them with the corpse. Accordingly I saddled my camel, and putting the body on its back, and throwing an union-jack over it, I bade them proceed. Travelling at a slow pace, we halted at Jungavie, a small village, built on a rising ground, about five miles to the south-east of Soccatoo. The body was then taken from the camel’s back, and placed in a shed, whilst the slaves were digging the grave; which being quickly done, it was conveyed close to it. I then opened a prayer-book, and, amid showers of tears, read the funeral service over the remains of my valued master. Not a single person listened to this peculiarly distressing ceremony, the slaves being at some distance, quarrelling and making a most indecent noise the whole of the time it lasted. This being done, the union-jack was taken off, and the body was slowly lowered into the earth, and I wept bitterly as I gazed for the last time upon all that remained of my generous and intrepid master. The pit was speedily filled, and I returned to the village about thirty yards to the east of the grave, and giving the most respectable inhabitants, both male and female, a few trifling presents, entreated them to let no one disturb its sacred contents. I also gave them 2,000 cowries to build a house, four feet high, over the spot, which they promised to do. I then returned, disconsolate and oppressed, to my solitary habitation, and leaning my head on my hand, could not help being deeply affected with my lonesome and dangerous situation; a hundred and fifteen days’ journey from the sea-coast, surrounded by a selfish and cruel race of strangers, my only friend and protector mouldering in his grave, and myself suffering dreadfully from fever. I felt, indeed, as if I stood alone in the world, and earnestly wished I had been laid by the side of my dear master: all the trying evils I had endured never affected me half so much as the bitter reflections of that distressing period. After a sleepless night, I went alone to the grave, and found that nothing had been done, nor did there seem the least inclination on the part of the inhabitants of the village to perform their agreement. Knowing it would be useless to remonstrate with them, I hired two slaves at Soccatoo the next day, who went immediately to work, and the house over the grave was finished on the 15th.
One instance, out of many, of the kindness and affection with which my departed master uniformly treated me, occurred at Jenna, on our journey into the interior. I was dangerously ill with fever in that place, when he generously gave up his own bed to me, and slept himself on my mat, watched over me with parental assiduity and tenderness, and ministered to all my wants. No one can express the joy he felt on my recovery: and who, possessing a spark of gratitude, could help returning it but by the most inviolable attachment and devoted zeal? It was his sympathy for me in all my sufferings that had so powerful a claim on my feelings and affections, and taught me to be grateful to him in hours of darkness and distress, when pecuniary recompense was entirely out of the question.
The great sufferings, both mental and bodily, I had undergone at the death and burial of my master, and the constant agitation in which I was kept, occasioned a rapid increase in my disorder; and on the 16th I could with difficulty crawl round my hut, and was obliged to lay myself on my mat, from which I had not strength to arise till the 27th; old Pascoe, during that period, being very kind and attentive to me. The Arabs in the city visited me daily, and did all in their power to raise my spirits; telling me not to be disheartened at the death of my father, and that no injury would happen to me. But I plainly saw these visits of condolence did not proceed from a charitable spirit; they came more for the purpose of obtaining presents than any thing else: but I did not give them any. The sultan also sent messengers to inquire after my health nearly as often. The weather was dreadfully warm; and I was obliged to have a tub of water close at my side, into which I frequently plunged my hands and arms, and occasionally sprinkled my head and body. This much refreshed me; indeed it was the only means by which I was enabled to obtain a little sleep. I had given up all hopes of life, when on the 26th I found my health improve in a wonderful manner; the next day I was able to sit up on my mat. In the course of this day (27th) the Gadado, Malem Moodie, and Sidi Sheik, came with a commission from the sultan to search my boxes, as he had been informed they were filled with gold and silver; but, to their great amazement, found I had not sufficient money to defray my expenses to the sea-coast. They, however, took an inventory of all my articles, and carried it to Bello. The gold watch intended for him, and the private watches of Captains Clapperton and Pearce, I had taken the precaution to conceal about my person. In a short time the Gadado and his companions returned with a message from the sultan, commanding me to deliver to them the following articles, viz. a rifle-gun, double-barrelled ditto, two bags of ball, a canister of powder, a bag of flints, a ream and a half of paper, and six gilt chains, for which he promised to give me whatever I might ask. I consequently charged him 245,000 cowries, which I was to receive from Hadji Hat Sallah, at Kano; and an order was given me to receive this sum, and what more I might require in my journey over the Great Desert. A letter was also sent by me to Hadji Hat Sallah.
On the 28th I made Ben Gumso a present of four yards of blue, and the same quantity of scarlet damask, an unwritten journal-book, two pairs of scissors, and two knives: with these articles I endeavoured to get into the good graces of this old Arab. By a singular piece of good fortune he had just begun to exercise a powerful influence over the mind and opinions of the sultan. Bello, in an excursion into the Gooberite country, had come to an engagement with a large party of the natives; and in the midst of the fight was shot in the neck with a poisoned arrow, which turned the tide of victory in favour of his enemies. On his return to Soccatoo, Ben Gumso wrote a charm on a bit of wood, which was washed off into a calabash of water, and drank immediately by the sultan; who, shortly after recovering, attributed it solely to the virtues of this charm, and he was advanced accordingly. I begged Ben Gumso to use his influence with the sultan to obtain leave for my departure from his capital, and make the best of my way homewards. He accordingly represented to Bello the impolicy and injustice of detaining any longer a subject of the king of England; advised him to allow me to quit Soccatoo as soon as possible; and insinuated that, if I were to die in his dominions, a report would be circulated and believed that he had murdered both my father and me, by which he would get a bad name. The sultan approved of these weighty arguments of Ben Gumso; and word was sent me, almost immediately, to appear before him. After a little preliminary conversation, Bello asked me which route I should prefer. Although my master had advised me to proceed with the Arabs to Fezzan, just before his death, I much feared that the papers intrusted to my care would be stolen, and myself murdered, by that wily and treacherous race, whose behaviour to my master, from the time of his arrival in Houssa, I very much disliked; and would rather cast myself, unarmed and unprotected, upon the good faith of the natives, than go with them. Under these impressions I answered the sultan that, as I wished to get to England in as short a time as possible, the route to Kubbi, through Boussa, was most likely to answer that end. “It is impossible,” he continued, “to travel that way: the rainy season is commenced; the rivers are overflowed; the country is inundated; and you will not be able to reach the sea-coast in safety. It will be much better for you to go over the desert; and, to facilitate your progress, I will write Hat Sallah to get a trustworthy person to accompany you; he will also furnish you with camels and provisions, and advance you what money it is likely you will want.” I only replied, “Very well, sultan.” He then asked if Abdullah had forgiven Pascoe in his book, for the roguery he had committed. I said, “He had not been able to write during the whole of his sickness; and therefore nothing was stated about the matter.”—“If Abdullah has not pardoned him in his book,” rejoined the sultan, “your king will certainly cut off his head on his arrival in England.” I assured him Pascoe would not be punished by any one, if his future conduct was good; but this the sultan was in no haste to believe; and observed, “I cannot suffer him to go with you; he shall stay here to clean and repair my guns!” this latter consideration having evidently more influence with the sultan than Pascoe’s safety, which he cared nothing at all about. I then besought Bello to permit him to accompany me as far as Kano, as an interpreter; to which he rather reluctantly consented, on condition that I should procure him a horse to return, and pay him wages, on my arrival at Kano, to the amount of 15,000 cowries, which of course I agreed to do; and finding the sultan had nothing more to say, I bowed profoundly and retired. I never saw him again.
On the evening of the 3d of May, a messenger came from the sultan, and told me to get every thing in readiness to depart on the following morning, with a promise of a camel and provisions, which I never received. Early next day, therefore, I left Soccatoo, where I had suffered so much, heartily tired of the place and its inhabitants; and, accompanied with a messenger from the kind old Gadado, Pascoe and Mudey, with our three camels and two horses, proceeded to a flat, five miles to the east of Magaria, where we arrived in the afternoon, and rested for the night under the branches of a large tree, near to a small lake. Mosquitoes were numerous and troublesome, and consequently could not sleep till morning, when a refreshing breeze springing up, it drove them away. At this flat we joined a party of above 4,000 people, consisting of Tuarick salt-merchants returning to Kilgris, pilgrims on their way to Mecca, Goora merchants returning to Kano and Nyffé, &c. &c.; all travelling in company, for mutual protection, with an immense number of camels, horses, and bullocks. The merchants invariably meet at Kashna, where they disperse for their different destinations. In the same train was the king of Jacoba, with fifty slaves, which he had driven to Soccatoo, as a present to the sultan, who, having learnt the dreadful losses he had sustained in men and cattle in his wars with the sheik of Bornou, and the number of his villages which had been plundered and burnt by the soldiers of the sheik, would not accept of them, and desired the king of Jacoba to re-conduct them to his own dominions.
At eleven o’clock in the morning of the 4th of May, a signal to prepare to depart was made with the horns and drums of the party, which made a loud and most discordant noise; and, about an hour after, the whole body was in motion. We travelled in great haste till three o’clock in the afternoon of the 5th, when Boussa Jack, the horse on which I rode, and which was made a present of by the king of Boussa to my late master, became much fatigued, and began to lag. The weather was at this time intolerably hot, and the dust was rolling in thick clouds in every direction, entering my eyes and nostrils, and penetrating into the very pores of the skin. I felt nearly suffocated, and was faint and exhausted. Finding I was unable to proceed, I ordered Pascoe to overtake the camels, his horse being fresh and vigorous, and bring me some water. I then dismounted, and sat under a tree by the road-side, whose branches afforded but an indifferent shelter against the scorching rays of an African sun, and holding the bridle of my poor horse in my hand, I implored the hundreds of Fellatas and Tuaricks who were passing to sell me a drop of water; but the cold-hearted wretches refused my earnest request, observing one to another, “He is a Kafir; let him die.” At length a young Fellata, from Footatoora, accidentally seeing me, came to the spot, exclaiming, “Nasarah, Nasarah, triffi manora!” (Christian, Christian, go on!) I answered, “I am faint and sick for want of water; no one will give me any; and I am so weary that I cannot proceed.” On hearing which the young man kindly gave me a small calabash full; part of which I drank, and with the remainder washed the nostrils of Boussa Jack, and sprinkled a little into his mouth. The people, who observed the Fellata performing this generous action, upbraided him in strong language for giving water to the Christian; but he, showing them a double-barrelled gun, remarked that he had obtained it of my countrymen, who were all good men, and would do no harm. This somewhat appeased them. On examining the gun shortly afterwards, I found it to be of English manufacture, with “Arnold, maker, London,” on its lock. I, as well as the horse, was greatly refreshed with the small quantity of water I had taken; but soon becoming again weak and dispirited, I was almost in as bad a state as on the former occasion; my legs were swollen prodigiously, and I felt the most acute pains in every part of my body. At length I perceived Pascoe, whom I had sent for water three or four hours previously, comfortably seated under a tree, and seeming to be enjoying himself much with Mudey,—the camels feeding at a short distance. I had half an inclination to shoot the heartless old scoundrel, knowing as he did how keen my sufferings must have been. Reflecting, however, that the safety of my papers, and even my own life, was placed in some measure in his hands, I restrained myself, and merely asked why he did not return with the water, on which he answered, very composedly, “I was tired.”
The young Fellata who had so generously saved my life came to me on the 7th, and informed me that the whole of the slaves of the king of Jacoba being missing, a party of horsemen had been sent in quest of them, and had just returned with the dreadful account of having seen thirty-five of their dead bodies exposed on the road; the remaining fifteen could not be found, but were strongly suspected of having met a similar fate. These unfortunate creatures had to carry heavy burdens on their heads the day before; and being unable to keep up with the rapid pace of the camels, were necessarily obliged to be left behind, and thus miserably perished of thirst. I congratulated myself on my own good fortune in having so narrowly escaped so horrid a death; and thanked the Almighty for having so providentially rescued me. On leaving me, I gave the Fellata a pair of scissors, and twenty flints for his gun, which pleased him highly. On our road to Kano, the king of Jacoba became very sociable with me, and was my constant companion. He pressed me very much to visit his country, where he would do all in his power to make my stay agreeable. He told me that his neighbours, the Yamyam people, who had assisted him in his war against the sheik of Bornou, were surrounded, with some of his own people, on a plain near Jacoba, by the sheik’s soldiers, who made a dreadful slaughter of them. The fight lasted a whole day, when the Yamyams and people of Jacoba were entirely routed; he himself narrowly escaping being taken prisoner. The morning after, the surviving Yamyams repaired to the field of action, and bearing off a great number of the dead bodies of their enemies, made a fire, roasted, and ate them!
Soon after our arrival at Markee, on the 19th, the spouse of the chief, a finely formed and intelligent looking woman, aged about 22 years, came to me with tears in her eyes, and implored me to give her some magarie, as she had no child. I accordingly presented her with a couple of tea-spoonfuls of oil of cinnamon, and ordered her to put two drops of it into a pint of cow’s milk, which should be taken three times a day till the whole was consumed. I told her that on my return to Markee I had not the least doubt I should have the pleasure of seeing her the happy mother of a numerous progeny. On her husband being made acquainted with the circumstance, he came and thanked me in the heartiest manner for my kindness, gave me abundance of fresh milk, fowls, rice, &c.; telling me at the same time, that on my return from England he would give me a large sum of money, which, no doubt, he will do. Bidding them adieu the next morning, they said to me, “Christian! God send you safely to your country, and may you speedily come back to Markee.”
On my arrival at Kano on the 25th of May, I delivered Sultan Bello’s order and letter to Hadji Hat Sallah; but he declared, after perusing the letter, he would have nothing to do with it: he had nearly lost his head on my father’s account at Soccatoo, and therefore positively refused to lend me a single cowrie. He had no objection to give, in goods and a slave, the amount of my demands on Bello, but refused to let me have any money. I accordingly received from him a strong female slave, a quantity of unwrought silk, and scarlet caps and beads. I sold my weakened and diseased camels for 15,000 cowries each, and discharged their keeper, Maddie. Not having sufficient money to purchase fresh camels, provisions, and presents for the chiefs on my way to Fezzan, I was necessitated to take a different route; and for that purpose purchased a horse and two asses. Bello had not forgotten to mention in his letter for Hadji Hat Sallah to send back Pascoe to Soccatoo, on his arrival at Kano. I begged of him, however, to let me take him as far as Coulfo, in Nyffé, which he at first refused; but giving him two yards of scarlet damask, two pairs of scissors, two dollars, a large knife, and two yards of blue damask, the old Arab seemed to relax in his determination; and calling Pascoe to him, gave him leave to accompany me to Coulfo, but cautioned him to return the moment he arrived, on pain of having Jerrub (the devil) sent after him. The old man came to me just after in great trepidation, every member of his body trembling like an aspen leaf, and gave me to understand, as well as he was able, the conversation he had had with Hadji Hat Sallah, and in consequence thereof, his great reluctance to quit Kano with me. I did all I could to laugh him out of his superstitious fears, but it utterly failed of the desired effect; the name of Jerrub being enough to put him in a fever. I had given the slave that Hadji Hat Salah had sold me to Pascoe as a wife. I told him that, unless he accompanied me, he should not have her. As soon as he learnt he was to be parted from the girl, all his scruples vanished, and he consented to go to Coulfo, but no farther, he having left a wife at Soccatoo, where he much wished to go. This woman, whom I had seen several times as Ben Gumso’s slave, was remarkably ugly, and had had before marriage a male child, by a blind fiddler belonging to Sultan Bello’s band at Soccatoo. On my asking what had induced him to marry so frightful an object, he replied, in a tone full of tenderness, it was because she loved him very much, and made the best tuah he had ever tasted: these powerful recommendations were irresistible to a man of Pascoe’s stamp; and a very short time after he had first tasted her tuah, Ben Gumso’s ugly slave became the wife of Abbou Boukir (Pascoe’s native name).
On the 29th, Hadji Hat Sallah desired me to pay my respects to the king of Kano, who was then at Faniso, his country residence. I complied with his wishes, and on my leaving his majesty he said, “When you return to your own country, Christian, give the Fellatas a good name.” He was not, however, kind enough to send a messenger with me, so I hired two men to accompany me as far as Funda, paying them 8,000 cowries each for their journey. The same day at one left Kano, and travelling at a quick pace, halted on the banks of the river Kogie, four hours’ journey from that place; but being much swollen, did not dare to pass. To our great regret we found that the tent-poles had been left behind; I was consequently obliged to send back one of the hired servants after them, giving him a sword as a proof that he was sent by me; but the scoundrel never returned. It being necessary for us to rest on the banks of the river that night, I slung the tent to the branch of a tree, and fastened the lower part to the earth. At seven in the evening it came to fall heavy rain, accompanied with the loudest thunder I ever recollect to have heard, and lightning, which continued with great violence till nine next morning. In the night, our tent becoming completely drenched and heavy, the bough to which it was attached gave way, and it fell on us as we were sitting on our mats, it being utterly impossible to sleep. We remained in this miserable plight till day-light, for no one could venture out in that dreadful weather.
30th.—As soon as things were put to rights this morning, I sent Pascoe to Kano to endeavour to bring back the fellow that had cheated me yesterday, but he had not been seen near the place; and Pascoe returned in the afternoon with the poles. The river was now become fordable, but, owing to the strength and rapidity of the current, we crossed with extreme difficulty. We had no sooner landed on the opposite side than four armed slaves from Soccatoo came up to us, and demanded 4,000 cowries of Pascoe, which Ben Gumso had lent him to defray the expenses of the marriage ceremony with his slave, the celebrated maker of tuah; and if Pascoe were unable to pay that sum, they were to take him back to Soccatoo. Pascoe informed them he had left English clothes and money in that capital worth 50,000 cowries, out of which Ben Gumso might pay himself. This answer by no means satisfied the slaves, who were about to take him away by force, when I myself paid the money demanded. This little affair being settled to the complete gratification of Pascoe, we stopped till morning on the spot. The weather during the whole of the night was just as bad as yesterday. In the evening sent Mohamed, the other hired servant, to a neighbouring village to purchase provisions; but he brought with him a little corn only.
31st.—The weather clearing up this morning about eight, we proceeded on our journey, and at two P.M. arrived at Madubie, a small walled town. The chief invited me to remain at his house, but I preferred staying in my tent, which I had fixed within the walls, close to the gate. In the evening the chief’s daughter came to see me, bringing milk, a bowl of stewed beef, and tuah, sufficient for the whole of us for supper. I afterwards made her a trifling present. The weather as usual.
June 1st.—Having dried our tent, at 9 A.M. journeyed till we came to the banks of the Gora, a narrow but deep and rapid river. I was much afraid the men would be washed down the stream in crossing; but at length every thing was landed on the opposite side. Passed the walled town of Bebajie at one at noon; and ordering the men to proceed ahead, I followed at some distance, being afraid the inhabitants would detain me if recognised. Half an hour after, came to a spot where are two roads, one leading to Nyffé, and the other to Funda. My master had said, before his death, at Soccatoo, that if I returned through Nyffé and Youriba, the inhabitants, who must have heard of our having taken presents to Sultan Bello, with whom they were at war, would certainly assassinate me; and feeling an earnest and irrepressible desire to visit Funda, on the banks of the Niger, and trace, in a canoe, that river to Benin, without hesitation I chose the Funda road. We therefore proceeded, and at 6 A.M. pitched our tent within half a mile of the walled town of Koufa. Sent Pascoe to the town for provisions; who shortly afterwards returned with some of the inhabitants to look at the tent. The chief did not visit me, thinking I was an Arab on his way to Funda. I was fortunate enough to obtain a little sleep this night, for the first time since leaving Kano. The town is situated at the foot of an immense rock, on which there is not the slightest trace of vegetation, is about two miles in circumference, and pretty thickly inhabited. To the east of the town is a range of high hills, stretching from north to south as far as the eye can reach. Their sides had a most pleasing appearance, and vegetation looked green and luxuriant. Travelled in a south-east direction till ten in the morning, when our course lay more westerly.
2d.—Left Koufa at 6 A.M., the weather being rainy, and halted at the small walled town of Cookie at twelve at noon.
3d.—It began to rain at day-break, and continued without intermission till ten in the morning, when, brightening a little, we struck our tent, and started at eleven.
At 5 P.M. came near Carifo, a small walled town, similar in extent and form to those we had seen yesterday and the day before. In the course of the day crossed a large river and two smaller ones, all running in a westerly direction, but no one could tell me their names. The hills seen yesterday still on our left, and extending to the horizon.
At 9 A.M. a dreadful thunder-storm came on, with lightning and torrents of rain, which threatened to wash down our tent. The country traversed to-day and yesterday, though level, is picturesque and beautiful; all nature wears a gay and lively aspect: the soil rich, and of a deep red colour.
4th.—At eight this morning, after drying the tent, proceeded; and at eleven reached the foot of a high and craggy mountain, called Almena, consisting of gigantic blocks of granite, fearfully piled on each other, and seeming ready to fall to the ground below. They much resemble the rocks near the Logan-stone, in Cornwall, but infinitely larger. Mahomet, my servant, who is acquainted with the traditions of the natives of every part of this country, and had travelled far and near, gave me the following story:—“About 500 years ago a queen of the Fantee nation, having quarrelled with her husband about a golden stool, fled from her dominions with a great number of her subjects, and built a large town at the foot of this mountain, which she called Almena, from which it took its name.” The town was surrounded with a stone wall, as the ruins which now remain plainly attest. Crossed three small streams in the day, flowing in a north-westerly direction. At 3 P.M. passed a small walled town called Gowgee; and at four halted at Gatas, which it exactly resembled. Here I met with some Kano merchants from Cuttup. The inhabitants of Gatas, discovering by some means my being a Christian, came in crowds to see me; but behaved in a quiet and orderly manner. I invited some of the most respectable of the females into my tent, which they greatly admired, and shortly afterwards presented me with milk and foorah. The natives of this, as well as every other town I have seen in this direction, are of Houssa, but tributary to the Fellatas.
5th.—At five in the morning were again on the road, and halted at the south side of Damoy, a small walled town, at 2 P.M. The inhabitants of this town informed me that the range of hills I have mentioned extended to the salt water, and are inhabited by the ferocious Yamyams, whom they all declare, as did every one I had questioned on the road, to be cannibals. The Yamyams formerly carried on an extensive traffic with the Houssa men, in red cloth, beads, &c. which they took in exchange for elephant’s teeth: but five years before they assassinated a gaffle of merchants, and had afterwards eaten them; since which time the Houssa people have been shy in dealing with them.
6th.—Started at eight in the morning, and traversing a hilly and steril country, covered with small loose stones, reached the south side of a large river called by the natives Accra, at 3 P.M., running to the north-west. I was in hopes of getting into a town this day; but having a burning fever on me, and the nearest village being at some distance, we were obliged to fix the tent on the banks of the river, and remain there till morning without food of any kind.
7th.—Left at six in the morning, and proceeding in a south-west course, arrived at a walled town called Nammaleek, at twelve at noon; the north-east part of which is defended by a mountain, and the remaining parts by a high mud wall. The mountain is nearly perpendicular, and thickly covered with wood. Thousands of hyenas, tiger-cats, jackals, monkeys, &c. inhabit it; and the terrific noise they made during the night prevented me from closing my eyes. These animals are so rapacious, that the poor inhabitants cannot keep a single bullock, sheep, or goat; in consequence of which no animal food could be obtained in the place. The chief put us into a hut, and gave us tuah, with a sauce made from the monkey’s bread-fruit tree, which is most unpalatable stuff. I intended to stop a short time here, and take medicine; but the people coming in scores to see me, I had no opportunity of opening my box but in their presence, which I did not choose to do. This day, two Fellatas, messengers of the sultan of Zegzeg, unfortunately saw me, and asked where I was going. On my acquainting them, they immediately rode off, and, as I subsequently learnt, returned to Zegzeg, and informed the king that I was on my way to Funda with two asses, loaded with riches, and a beautiful horse, as presents to the king of that place.
8th.—At eight in the morning left Nammaleek, and keeping in a south-west direction, at the foot of a range of mountains, perceived an opening, and went through it at about twelve. Our course then lay more easterly, and crossing one large and three small rivers, whose names I could not learn, arrived at Fullindushie, the frontier town in Catica. On our journey to-day, we met, on their way to Zegzeg, as a tax to sultan Bello, from a neighbouring country, thirty slaves, men, women, and children, all apparently ill with the small-pox. The men were tied to each other by the neck with twisted bullocks’ hide; but the women and children were at liberty. The inhabitants of Fullindushie were the first people I had seen in Africa who disdained to make use of any kind of dress. They laughed immoderately on seeing me; whilst I, on my part, made myself quite merry at their expense. They were soon on the most familiar footing with me, and seem an artless and good-humoured people; but disgusting in their manners, and filthy in their persons: their sheep, goats, and poultry eat and sleep in the same hut with them, and a most intolerable stench is exhaled from all their dwellings. They do not appear to have the least affection for their offspring: a parent will sell his child for the merest trifle in the world, with no more remorse or repugnance than he would a chicken. They invariably wear a large piece of blue glass, in the shape of a semicircle, in their upper and lower lip; and a piece of red wood, about the size of a man’s thumb, dangles from their ears. They rub red clay, softened with an oil extracted from the guinea-nut, over their heads and bodies, which by no means improves their appearance. Their features do not resemble in any way those of the Negro, but are fine and handsome, and bear great similitude to the European. The inhabitants make fetishes, like the natives of Yariba.
9th.—Leaving at seven in the morning, did not halt till we arrived at La Zumee, a small town, with a good population, at three in the afternoon. On my entering, perceived two men sitting under the date-tree, one of whom having a tobe on, I saluted, thinking him to be the chief; but was surprised at his telling me he was a Kano merchant, and that the person by his side was that individual. The chief is a mean and dirty looking old man, and had a sheep-skin covered with filth tied round his waist. After showing me a hut, and staying away two hours, he came back, and apologized for not sending me provisions, saying his wives were at work in the gardens, but that on their return I should have some: accordingly, about three hours after, they brought me a couple of fowls, and some tuah and rice; for which I gave them a pair of scissors and fifty needles. Surrounding the town is a remarkably broad and deep ditch, which appeared to have been formerly filled with water. The country in the vicinity of the town is well cultivated. The Catica or Bowchee people do not possess a single bullock.
10th.—Arose at six in the morning, and pursuing a S.W. direction, over a fine and rich country, arrived at Coorokoo, a small walled town, environed with hills, at twelve.
11th.—Started at half-past seven in the morning, and halted at twelve at noon on the north-east side of the banks of a large river, rolling to the north-west, called Coodoonia, which empties itself into the Niger, near Funda. Finding it too deep to cross, we were obliged to remain till next day without food.
12th.—Crossed the river at nine o’clock this morning, the water reaching to our chins; and immediately proceeded towards Cuttup, where we arrived after three hours’ travelling. Having heard, on my route, so many different reports of Cuttup, its wealth, population, and celebrated market, I was rather surprised on finding it to consist of nearly five hundred small villages, almost adjoining each other; nearly the whole of which occupy a vast and beautiful plain, adorned with the finest trees. Here, for the first time since leaving the coast, I saw plantain, palm, and cocoa-nut trees, in great abundance, and in a flourishing condition; the country resembling, in a striking manner, some parts of Yariba. A considerable traffic is carried on here in slaves and bullocks; the latter are bred by Fellatas, a great number of whom reside here for no other purpose. Slaves, as well as bullocks and sheep, are exposed in the market, which is held daily; and also red cloth, gum, salt, goora nuts, trona, beads, tobacco, country cloth, rings, needles, cutlery articles, and honey, rice, milk, &c. People from the most distant parts of the country resort here in vast numbers, to purchase these various articles. The sultan being a very great man, I thought it necessary to make him a present worthy the representative (however humble) of the king of England. I accordingly gave him four yards of blue damask, the same quantity of scarlet ditto, a print of my own gracious sovereign, and one of his royal highness the Duke of York, with several more trifling articles. In return, I received from him a sheep, the humps of two bullocks, and stewed rice sufficient for fifty men. Ten of the king’s wives, on paying me a visit a day or two after my arrival, took a fancy to the gilt buttons on my jacket, which I cut off and presented to their sable majesties. Thinking them to be gold, they immediately stuck them in their ears. In this belief I took care not to undeceive them.
During my stay at Cuttup I was never in want of a bullock’s hump (by far the best part of the animal, weighing from twelve to fifteen pounds), for the king invariably receives, as a tax from the butchers, the hump of every bullock they slaughtered; and one or two was sent me by his wives each day. Being in want of money, I sent to the market and informed the people I had needles and beads to sell; on which several buyers came into my hut and purchased freely, giving me fifteen or twenty cowries each for the needles, whilst the Arabs could only get ten at most for theirs; but whether they conceived my needles to be superior, or whether it was the desire of obtaining something of a white man, I did not learn. Unlike the princes of Houssa, Borgoo, Nyffé, Cuttumkora, and other places in the interior, the sultan of Cuttup gives his wives unrestricted liberty.
An old woman came to me one afternoon, full of grief, informing me of her having frequently been robbed of the little money she had saved from her earnings, from holes in her hut, where she had hid it, by some of her neighbours and acquaintances. She entreated me to let her have a charm to prevent such dishonest acts in future. Being ever willing to oblige the simple-hearted Africans, I gave her a tea-spoonful of common sweet oil, in a small phial, telling her that she must, on her return to her hut, pour it into the hole in which she intended concealing her money; and that if any one but herself touched the money while there, without her permission, he would not long survive. I advised her by all means to give the virtues of this charm as extensive a circulation as possible, and I had no doubt she would not be robbed again. The poor old woman could not express the gratitude she felt for my kindness; she dropped on her knees before me, thanked me in the warmest terms, and pressed me to accept of forty cowries, the only money she had then in the world. Of course I refused to deprive the old woman of her substance, and sent her away highly pleased with the treatment she had received.
16th.—Having paid my respects to the king and his wives last evening, left Cuttup at six in the morning; and pursuing a south-west direction till half-past one, when we proceeded due south, arrived at Coogie, a small town, at half-past three in the afternoon. Owing to the bites and stings of myriads of flies, the asses, for the whole of the journey, were restive and unmanageable, frequently throwing off their loads, and detaining us on the way by their wanton pranks. The roads were of the very worst description; at one moment obliged to carry the loads ourselves over dangerous precipices, and at the next up to our waist in mud and water on the low grounds. Two Fellatas came to see me this day, but made no observations.
17th.—Pursuing our journey at half-past five in the morning, arrived at a town called Dungoora at two in the afternoon. It rained heavily during this day’s journey, and consequently got wet to the skin on halting. The water rushed in torrents through the valleys, and in some places on the hills the beasts sank to their knees in mud and dirt. Crossed a large river to-day, named Rary, flowing to the south-east, our course being to the south-south-west. The country traversed is hilly and thickly wooded; the soil rich and fertile. Not being able to obtain provisions, and every article being wet through, obliged to remain in our wet clothes all night, without fire or food.
18th.—At 6 A.M. proceeded on our journey, and arrived at Dunrora at 6 P.M. Our route, some parts of the day, lay over steep and craggy precipices, some of them being of a most awful height. On the summit of one of these places the path was barely wide enough for a single beast to pass. The horse that carried the portmanteaus, in which were the journal, papers, watches, &c. struck himself against a piece of rock projecting over the road, and was precipitated a distance of eighty yards, the ropes which were bound round the portmanteaus arresting his further progress. I was horror-struck on observing the poor little animal tumbling head over heels down the frightful declivity, and was much afraid he would be dashed to pieces, the portmanteaus broken, and their contents destroyed; but was most happy to see him entangled in some stunted trees which fortunately grew on the side of the precipice, which is seven hundred yards in height. This accident occasioned us two hours’ delay; but the horse was not materially hurt. We had been travelling about half an hour after leaving this spot, when we came to a place from which there was an extensive and beautiful prospect of the surrounding country; and eight days’ journey might plainly be seen before us. I halted for a moment to gaze upon the fine and noble scene around me. About half a day’s journey to the east stood a lofty hill, at the foot of which lay the large city of Jacoba. Mahomet affirmed that there is a river called Shar, or Sharry, about half a mile from that place, which derives its source from the lake Tchad; and that canoes can go from the lake to the Niger at any season of the year. The Sharry empties itself into the Niger at Funda; and the Niger, after leaving the towns of Cuttum Currijee, Gattoo, and Jibboo, joins the salt water, but at what particular place Mahomet could not rightly inform me, never having heard the word “Benin” mentioned before. Funda lies due west of Dunrora. Not being aware that the chief of Dunrora was so very great a man, I this day sent him only a pair of scissors and fifty needles, which were shortly afterwards returned to me with a request that I would give them to a less exalted personage. On asking the reason of this conduct, the people informed me I had insulted the dignity of their chief by offering so trifling a present, he being a mighty man. Not feeling disposed, however, to add any thing else to it, I sent back the messenger empty-handed. Dunrora contains 4000 inhabitants.
19th.—This morning as I was loading my beasts, and preparing to depart, I perceived four armed men ride up at full gallop to the residence of the chief, their horses covered with foam and perspiration. The chief had no sooner been made acquainted with their errand than he came to me, followed by an immense multitude of people, and gave me to understand that I must immediately return with the messengers, who had just arrived, to the king of Zegzeg, who much wished to see me. I remonstrated with him on the injustice of the command, telling him it was a hard case I should go back to Zegzeg, having proceeded so far on my way unmolested: his only reply was, that if he suffered me to depart he should lose his head. Finding entreaty and persuasion useless, I consented, with a bad grace, to return with the messengers. Thus, after seventeen days’ perilous travelling from Kano, with a fair prospect of reaching Funda in twelve or thirteen more, from whence four days’ sail would bring me to the salt water, a new country opening before me, and filled with the most lively anticipations of solving the geographical problem which had for so long a time puzzled Europeans, of ascertaining whether the Niger actually joins the sea in that direction, was I obliged to abandon my fondest and long cherished hopes, and return to Zegzeg; from thence to be transported the Lord knew whither. I felt depressed and unhappy at this sudden turn in my affairs, and cared not much whether I lived or died. We left the town in the course of the day, and entered Cuttup by the same route I had taken on the 21st.
I was attacked with dysentery on my arrival, and remained at Cuttup four days, much against the inclination of my guards; suffering during that period, and indeed for several days after, more dreadfully than I can describe.
25th.—Left Cuttup by another route at eight in the morning, accompanied by two messengers on foot, in lieu of the horsemen, who, on finding me very tractable, and too ill to make the least exertion, had thought them strong enough to guard me. After proceeding in a northerly direction till twelve, reached an insignificant village, forming part of Cuttup. The country traversed level, but thickly wooded, and fertile.
26th.—Arose at 6 A.M., and did not halt till ten at night, when we fixed our tent on a clear space in the midst of a large wood; vast quantities of bamboo, palm, and cocoa-nut trees growing in every direction. The asses were very troublesome to-day, having been annoyed by the forest flies; myriads of which swarm in the woods, and alight in great numbers on men and animals. These insects bit the asses so severely that the blood streamed copiously from their sides and legs, and made them so restive that they frequently flung off their loads, and rolled themselves on the ground. Being unable to procure any better provisions, we contented ourselves with a little boiled corn. Although still very ill, found myself greatly improved.
27th.—At seven in the morning proceeded, and after a fatiguing journey, reached a Bowchee village, named Cokalo, at 2 P.M. The inhabitants being very poor, could procure nothing but corn. The chief of the village had made a fetish, and having roasted a dog, stewed a large snake in oil and water, and boiled a good deal of corn, invited his people to a feast, of which they partook freely. A small bowl of boiled corn, enriched with a portion of the reptile, and the liquid in which it had been dressed, was sent me from the chief’s table. Supposing it to be fish on the boiled corn, I ate a mouthful or two, but there being a peculiar, and not disagreeable flavour with it, I cursorily asked a person, who stood by my side, what kind of fish I was eating; but on his telling me it was part of the snake, I could eat no more. Pascoe, however, was not quite so fastidious, and consumed the remainder with great relish, declaring that, in his opinion, it was much superior to dried ling.
28th.—Proceeding this morning at eight, arrived an hour after on the banks of the Coodoonia; but here it was broader, deeper, and more rapid than at Cuttup. In attempting to convey, on a small bamboo raft, one of my portmanteaus to the opposite side, found it would not bear its weight, and snatched it from the raft just in time to save it from sinking. Finding it, therefore, dangerous to cross, till the river became more shallow, I strenuously refused to accede to the wishes of the messengers, who strongly urged the necessity of my reaching Zegzeg as quickly as possible; observing, that I would neither risk my property nor person on so weak and dangerous a conveyance. They abused me in the most insolent terms, and threatened to go immediately and inform their king of my refusal to proceed. I desired them to give my best respects to his Zegzeg majesty, and told them they were at liberty to go as soon as they pleased. They left me in great anger, cursing me as they went; whilst I slowly proceeded with my horses and asses to the village we had left in the morning.
Whether the messengers did or did not go to Zegzeg I cannot tell, but they did not return till the 11th July following. I remained all that time in the village, very ill, with nothing to eat but boiled corn, not by any means relishing their roasted dogs. The inhabitants, who came by hundreds each day to visit me, were destitute of apparel of any kind, but, nevertheless, behaved in a modest and becoming manner. The men did not appear to have any occupation or employment whatever, and spent their time in loitering about the village. The women were generally engaged most of the day in manufacturing an oil from a small black seed and the guinea nut.
July 11th.—The messengers being returned, came to me, and, in a very submissive tone, requested me to accompany them, as the king did not think it proper to permit me to go any where until I had first seen him. Accordingly I loaded my beasts, and followed them a second time to the river, but found it still much too deep to walk through; and one bamboo raft being too small to bear a heavy article, I caused two to be lashed together, which answered the purpose extremely well. The portmanteaus, &c. were first taken over; and I, laying myself flat on my face, was next ferried across by the two messengers, who swam behind, and dexterously propelled it forward with their hands. The horses and asses were not quite so fortunate; the current being strong and rapid, they were borne by it nearly a quarter of a mile from the place at which they entered the water. Every thing being at length safely landed on the opposite side, at 11 P.M. left the banks of the river, and pursuing a north-east course till sunset, pitched our tent on a rising ground near a small stream. The asses have been again troublesome the whole of the way.
12th.—Leaving at half-past six in the morning, pitched our tent outside a small walled town called Accoran, the first I had seen since leaving Nammaleek, at two in the afternoon. The west end of the town is defended by an immense naked rock, and the other parts by a mud wall and a deep ditch. It is inhabited by Bowchee people, miserably poor, who could not sell us even a single goat or fowl. A thunder-storm came on this afternoon, with its usual violence, accompanied with vivid lightning and floods of rain, which continued the whole of the night.
13th.—Started at eight in the morning, and reached Cowroo at three in the afternoon. The country traversed differed but little from that previously mentioned. The palm and cocoa-nut trees, however, which had been so plentiful since leaving Cuttup, suddenly disappeared, and I saw no more of them till our arrival near the sea-coast in Yariba. Crossed several streams in the day, and numerous steep and craggy but low mountains lay on our left and right, on the very summits of which small villages are built; the roads leading to them must be extremely dangerous. Remained here three days, in order to refresh my men and beasts. The chief is a fine looking man, and was very neatly dressed in a plain white tobe and trousers, his feet bare, and stained red. I gave him an old piece of carpeting, a scarlet cap, white turban, and a gilt chain, in return for abundance of excellent provisions, &c. The inhabitants of the town are principally Houssa people.
17th.—Started at seven in the morning, and keeping a north-east course, reached a large river called Makammee, running southerly, which derives its name from a town at a short distance. Were ferried across in a canoe, which cost one hundred needles and sixty cowries. On landing on the opposite side, suddenly altered our route to due east, and arrived at the town of Makammee, at two in the afternoon. Sent the chief a paper of unwrought silk, fifty needles, and a pair of scissors, which he was very grateful for, and returned me two fish, weighing seven or eight pounds each, and plenty of other provisions.
18th.—At six in the morning proceeded, and travelling north by east till twelve at noon, halted at Wautorah, another walled town. The chief sent me some tuah and corn; but there being no poultry to be had, shot a few pigeons, which surprised and terrified the inhabitants to an alarming degree. Gave the chief a pair of scissors and a hundred needles.
19th.—This morning, it being damp and foggy, Mahomet and the two messengers refused to proceed, and told me I might go alone, thinking to detain me in the town till it would be too late to leave this day; but ordering Pascoe and his wife to assist me, loaded the beasts, and went on without them. Unfortunately the path leading to some gardens belonging to the inhabitants of Wautorah misled me. I had gone some distance when, discovering my mistake, instead of returning to the beaten track the way I came, crossed the country in order to save time; but owing to the marshy nature of the ground, and the swamps, which were numerous, did not get into the proper path till four in the afternoon; when, after travelling two hours on it, the beast became fatigued and exhausted, in consequence of which fixed the tent by the road-side; and being much distressed for water, luckily slaked my thirst from some which, oozing from the fissures of a neighbouring rock, I was enabled to obtain in small quantities.
20th.—At six in the morning proceeded on the path, and crossing a large river running to the south at one, entered a spacious town named Eggebee at two in the afternoon; the chief of which is one of the king of Zegzeg’s principal fighting men. Eggebee is an extremely neat as well as large town, surrounded with a high wall, and situated in the centre of a fine and highly-cultivated plain. Nothing can be more beautiful than the appearance of the country for miles round. Lofty trees, covered with the most beautiful foliage, casting their welcome shade along the earth; plots of ground, planted with corn, every here and there enriching the landscape, and vegetation springing up at every step in the richest luxuriance, afforded a gratifying and delightful relief to the sameness of African scenery, which is welcomed with emotions of pleasure that a person who has never wandered in these regions can never know. The town contains six or seven thousand inhabitants, who are all dressed with peculiar neatness; while the cleanliness they display, both in their huts and persons, strongly reminded me of my own far-distant country.
21st.—Left Eggebee at six in the morning, and travelling till two in the afternoon, were obliged to fix our tent in the midst of a wood, the asses being completely exhausted. No village being near, could obtain no provisions. Our course this day was northerly.
22d.—Started at five in the morning, and entered Zegzeg at twelve at noon. The country the whole of the way from the “bush” is rich and fertile, principally laid out in gardens. The king of Zegzeg did not see me this day, but ordered me to lodge at the house of Abbel Crême, in which my late master and myself stopped on our way to Kano. In the evening plenty of provisions were sent by the king.
23d.—Visited the king this morning, taking with me four yards of blue, and the same quantity of scarlet damask; four yards of blue and scarlet silk, a gilt chain, six prints, among which is one of his majesty, and another of the duke of York, two pair of scissors, a quire of paper, a scarlet cap, six yards of white muslin, and a blank drawing book. This present pleased him highly; and not long after my return to my lodgings, he sent me two fine bullocks. The chief subsequently told me that the reason for his ordering me to be brought back to Zegzeg was on account of the war between Sultan Bello and the king of Funda, who would murder me as soon as he had me in his power, for having taken presents to his powerful enemy: it was therefore doing me a great act of favour. Abbel Crême, my host, thought it necessary for me to give something to the king’s eldest son: I accordingly presented him, shortly afterwards, with two yards of blue and scarlet damask, an unwritten journal-book, half a canister of powder, a quire of paper, and a gilt chain. The prince is a remarkably fine and handsome young man, about twenty-two years of age, and was particularly kind to me. As an especial mark of favour, he took me into his inner apartments to see his wives, fifty in number, who, on my entrance, were all sitting in the shade outside their huts, and industriously occupied in preparing cotton, making thread, and weaving it into cloth. The prince said, “I have brought the Christian to see you.” They no sooner looked up than they all instantly dropped their work, and ran, or rather flew, into their coozies, and I saw no more of them. Four of these ladies reside together in one coozie. In the course of the day the prince offered me a young female slave, named Aboudah, for a wife! I accepted of her with gratitude, as I knew she would be serviceable to me on my journey, and I should also have the satisfaction of giving her her freedom on arriving at the sea-coast. Mahomet came to me to-day, having just returned from Wantorah; but he had used me so ill that I immediately discharged him. I had seen enough to convince me that no dependence could be placed on the fidelity of hired domestics; I therefore purchased a young slave named Jowdie for seven dollars, to supply Mahomet’s place. The asses being nearly worn out with our long and fatiguing journey, and wanting at least twenty days to recruit their strength, I thought it better to exchange them for a strong Yariba pony that remained in Zegzeg for so long a time. This pony, with the pack bullock the king had given me, were fully equal to supply the place of the asses. Presented Abbel Crême with an unwrought journal-book, a turban, and a scarlet cloth cap. Both the king and his son were at the wars when we passed through their territories on our way to Kano; and it was in order to gratify their curiosity, I verily believe, that I was so unfortunately stopped on my journey to Funda. Asked and obtained permission of the king to proceed to-morrow.
24th.—Left at 6 A.M., and halted at Wauree at 3 P.M., fixing the tent within the walls.
25th.—Arose at the same hour, and entered Fatica at four in the afternoon. The king of Zegzeg had sent a messenger to the chief of this town, desiring him to provide us with an escort to conduct us through a wood which was infested with robbers.
26th.—Rested at Fatica to-day, the chief supplying us with abundance of provisions, &c. Gave him two yards of scarlet silk, a cloth cap of the same colour, two pair of scissors, and a hundred needles.
27th.—Left at eight o’clock in the morning, escorted by eight armed men on horseback and four on foot, passed unmolested through the wood, and pitched our tent near Kazigee, at 7 P.M. Giving the men fifty needles each for their trouble, I ordered them to return to Fatica. We had now left the Houssa country, and entered Guarie.
28th.—Previous to leaving Kazigee, a tax of 600 cowries, or a present was demanded, before we could go on: preferred paying the money; and, travelling till three in the afternoon, halted near Maccondie, a small walled town. Here I fell in with a gaffle of merchants on their way to Coulfo. Purchased a small goat of them for 1800 cowries.
29th.—Left the town at six in the morning, and at twelve at noon fixed our tent outside the walls of the city of Guarie, the king of which sent me a quantity of stewed beef, a calabash of honey, and milk and tuah.
30th.—Unable to cross the river to-day.
31st.—Waited on the king this morning, and gave him three yards of light blue damask, the same quantity of blue and scarlet silk, an unwritten journal-book, and a red cap. To one of the chief men a red cap and a hundred needles. The old king asked the reason of my having been so long on the road from Kano, as merchants had told him I had left a great while ago. I answered I had attempted the route to Funda, it being much nearer to my country than any other. He observed, in reply, that if I wished to go that way then, he would send a messenger with me, and had no doubt of my reaching Funda in safety, the king of that place being his particular friend. I expressed much regret at not being able to embrace his kind offer, telling him my presents were nearly exhausted, and I had nothing good enough to give the king: on this account I felt no inclination to pass through his dominions. The king of Guarie had a eunuch in his service who was born not far from Funda. This man, at the instigation of his sovereign, came to see me, and I had a long conversation with him, in the course of which he stated his native place was Gibboo, on the banks of the Niger, four or five days’ journey from Funda. He was given as a slave to the king of the latter place, who had sent him to his present master. He had gone by water from Gibboo to Funda in eight days, the river running five knots an hour against him. The voyage from Funda to Gibboo might easily be done in three or at most four days. Fell in with a party of merchants in the town to-day, so far on their journey to Coulfo, who begged me to accompany them, observing that the road to that place was rendered dangerous by banditti, who had lately committed many excesses. Fearing there might be some truth in these reports, I waited for them three days; but not having then paid the accustomed duty, and not seeming to have the least inclination to depart, I preferred risking the dangers of the route to remaining any longer in Guarie.
August 2d.—Paid my respects to the king this evening, who wished me to take a messenger as far as Womba; but declined his generous offer, observing I was not afraid to proceed with my own small party, and would not put him to any trouble or inconvenience.
3d.—At half-past five in the morning left Guarie, and reached Fullindushie at two in the afternoon.
4th.—Heavy rain the whole of the day, which disabled us from taking down the tent.
5th.—Leaving Fullindushie at six in the morning, pitched our tent outside the walled town of Kazzagebubba at four in the afternoon. The chief sent tuah and corn to us; but not being market-day, apologized for having nothing better. A red cap and a pair of scissors made him quite proud.
6th.—Started at the same hour as yesterday, and crossing a large river in a canoe at three in the afternoon, pitched our tent in the midst of about fifty small uninhabited grass huts, erected by a party of merchants, as a temporary abode, some months before. In the night, the mosquitoes were so numerous and troublesome that we were obliged to set fire to the huts to drive them away.
7th.—Took down our tent at six in the morning, and travelling till six in the evening, arrived at Womba, a large town, surrounded by a high wall. The chief sent us fowls, rice, milk, and a bowl of honey, with corn, &c. for the horses. Being in want of money, sent needles to the market to sell, which fetched fifteen cowries each, and brought me in the whole 3,400 cowries. Presented the chief with two yards of scarlet and blue silk, a scarlet cap, and a pair of scissors.
8th.—This day paid my respects to the king, who insisted on sending a messenger with me, declaring the roads to be dangerous and unsafe without a guide.
9th.—At six in the morning left Womba, accompanied by the messenger; and at six in the evening, crossing a large river, halted on the south side, and fixed our tent amidst a number of grass huts, similar to those mentioned on the sixth. In the night burnt them to the ground, in order to destroy the mosquitoes and vermin, which annoyed us exceedingly.
10th.—Started at the same hour as yesterday, and halted in the town of Beari at 2 P.M. Instead of journeying in a south-west direction to Youri, took another road, and kept due south, having been informed that a party of merchants had been plundered, and many of them murdered, on the road I intended taking. The chief sent me a sheep, a Muscovy duck, a quantity of yams, and some beer made from Indian corn. Returned him one yard of scarlet and blue silk, a scarlet cap, and four prints, which much delighted him. As soon as one of the head men was aware of my approach to the king’s residence, he blew a shrill and loud blast through a long brass trumpet, the noise of which brought all the principal male inhabitants to the spot, who entered the hut, and seated themselves in a circle round their sovereign and myself. The chief is a fine looking man, apparently about fifty years of age, with a noble expression of countenance, and a commanding air. The coozie into which I was introduced is the largest I had ever seen in Africa, being not less, I should think, than eighty yards in circumference. A man stood by the side of the chief while I remained, who repeated to him what I had to say, and the answers were returned to me by the same individual: this singular custom is, I believe, peculiar to Beari, as I never observed it in any other town in Africa. The chief asked the usual questions about my king and country. The town is surrounded by a high wall and a deep ditch, and contains about four thousand inhabitants, some of whom had seen us before at Womba.
11th.—At six in the morning continued our journey, and arrived at Ragada at two in the afternoon. Remained outside the walls, in order that the horses might feed on the rich grass which grew in abundance on the spot. The chief wished me to lodge with him in the town; but, for the reason above stated, did not accept his invitation. The walls of the town are about three miles in circumference.
12th.—In passing through the town this morning, at 6 A.M., waited on the chief, who was delighted to see me, and gave me a sheep, some fowls, and a jar of gear (a beer made from Indian corn), and offered me a messenger, which I declined. Journeyed onwards without halting, till we pitched our tent a little to the west of Wittesa, at three in the afternoon. It began to rain about an hour after leaving Ragada, and continued with great violence till after sunset. Although the portmanteaus were defended by a thick bullock’s hide, every thing in them, with the exception of the papers, became completely soaked. Here I met with a party of merchants going to Koulfa.
13th.—Remained here to-day to dry our tent, clothes, &c. Boussa Jack, the horse which was presented to my late master by the king of Boussa, became dangerously ill. I bled him profusely, and in the evening he was much revived. Sold an unwritten journal-book and a few needles for 2000 cowries.
A man from the town in a state of intoxication came to my tent this evening, with a calabash of bum, and insisted, in an insolent tone, that I should come out and drink with him. Being busily engaged in packing up the articles that had been put out to dry, I did not choose to oblige him so far. When he found I had no inclination to leave the tent, he said he was determined to come in. Wishing to intimidate the fellow, I took a loaded pistol, and went to him, threatening to shoot him unless he immediately left the place; but this, instead of having the desired effect, only exasperated him the more; and flourishing a long spear he had with him over his head, as quick as lightning he made a desperate thrust at me. Slipping a little on one side, I caught the weapon in my hands, within an inch of my breast, which saved my life. I was highly incensed at this violent act, and told the people who stood by, and were spectators of the whole affair, that if they did not that moment take him from the tent, I would shoot him in earnest: half a dozen of them accordingly dragged him away. Next morning the fellow returned, and throwing himself at my feet, begged I would not inform Sultan Magie of his conduct; for if it came to his ears he would lose his head. I forgave him, on condition that he should never get tipsy again.