I should have said when the king Comes in his robes to the Parliament and all the Lords have theirs, so if there be any Prince of Wales he is also in his and weares his Prince of Wales Cap with a branch of diamonds in forme of a plume of feathers. He sitts in the house of Lords often—he may allwayes—to hear debates and to vote and he does present them to the king any of their addresses they desire, which he is attended with some of the Lords which are the privy Councellors; they bring back the kings answere. The Like is observ’d by the House of Commons, if they have any address or any petition to the king they desire some of their members which are of the Privy Councill to move ye King when the House shall attend him or her, which they knowing do it and their Speaker is their mouth. So when they would have a Conferrence with ye House of Lords they send to them to meete them in ye painted Chamber or Lobby of their house; so does the Lords send to ye Commons when they would have a Conferrence with them. These things are so well adjusted and so for the Common good that if Rightly maintain’d in their proper places would be a happy Constitution. All Acts of Parliament so pass’d are printed, but ye records of them are kept in the journalls of ye Parliament by the Clerke of ye Parliament. To him are added in the House of Commons also scribes or secretaryes which record and take minutes also. Now it is on these Laws that all Causes are tryed, for there are Laws made of all sorts both what relates to religious matters as well as humaine; true indeed as to points of religion for Rectifying matters as to the orders and Church government, that is debated and agreed by a Convocation, which is allwayes summoned at ye same tyme a parliament is Chosen, which Consists of two houses, also the Bishops and deanes, and off the Inferior Clergy, and is managed by way of debates and disputation which have a moderatour and prolocutors. Here they endeavour to reforme any abuse in the Church, any deffect in their Cannon Laws, and to Explaine those Laws and if they should find such, as in our religion not agreable to ye word of God, they form it into a bill or petition which is presented the King in way of an address, he being owned as head and supreame under Christ over these Churches and realmes. So this is to request his Care of it which ye King does by Laying it before ye Houses of Parliament who Enacts Laws to secure our religion, and reforme evil both in Doctrine and practise by their Acts Duely pass’d. As I said before the arch-Bishop’s Chiefe of this convocation house.
Next I will proceed to give some short account of tryalls on our Laws which is thus. Every free man of England being oppress’d Comes in due form of Law to demand his right, which being heard by the judges and a jury of his own fellow subjects—his Country men—they give their verdict in the matter as they thinke most just according to the statutes and Laws, and so the right between man and man which does vary from ye different Customs of Each County or precinct. This jury are twelve men all sworne on the Bible solemnly to do Justice, not out of feare, fraud or malice, favour or affection to jnjure any man, and ye first man is their foreman and speakes for the rest, Either acquit or Condemns the person, wch is in Life or Death, so determining other Causes the same manner, and these twelve men must all be agreed in their verdict, which is after they have heard all Can be witness’d or alleadged on all sides, wch verdict the Judges also must pronounce on ye Causes as they have brought it in. Now those suites of Law as well as Causes of Life and death are brought in by bill to ye Grand-jury, which are twenty four and these all of the best Gentry and many of them justices of peace, they examine the matter and if they find it (that is by any Act of Parliament) is pleadable or to be enquired into, they draw it up into an jndictmt and so its sent into the Court to be tryed by the Petty Jury, after whose Verdict and the Judges pronouncing it, the matter must be at an End and taken out of that Court. Sometymes indeed if the Subject is oppress’d he may appeale to another Court yts higher, as from the sessions to the assizes, thence to the Kings Bench, thence to ye Chancery, or the Parliament House which when a matter has there been Debated and decided there Can be noe more done in it because they are the makers of the Laws so best able to Interpret. Sometymes in these other Courts a Jury brings in a matter speciall, that is, Leaves it on the Judges to determine being a matter of Law, then ye Judges must Consult and do it all of them together.
All persons are tryed by those of their own ranke a Commoner of England is tryed by a Jury of Commoners in all Cases and of Life and death, a peer of England is tryed by his Peers, and in case it is not the tyme of ye Parliament sitting, then by a bill of oyer and terminer issued out, there is 12 Peers are jmpannell’d as a jury. But I must mention one thing as to the petty Juryes of Commoners, a person which is tryed for his Life may Challenge some of those wch are brought to be sworne for his Jury, that is except against them to such a number without giving reason, but if he exceeds that number he must give reason for such exception, either to be a man he had injured or one wch had former malice or one related to ye persons who Either is dead or injured; for our Laws Condemn to Death murther, fellony, treasons. By this order you see its Justice and Care. Then in matters of Life and Death the witness for the King are sworne, but ye witness for the prisoners are not sworne but only Examined to declare the truth. But to returne to the tryals of a peer which by such a jury is tryed, in Case the house of Lords ye parliament is sitting, then they prepare Westminster hall for the tryal, the House of Comons manage the Evidence and prosecute them, and the House of Lords are the Judges and Jury in this manner if it be for Life or death, wch is grounded on a statute either against murther, treason or fellony, and so ye arraignment is read and ye Councill for both sides. Ye house of Commons produces their Evidence and witness and the King Constitutes a Lord High Steward for that day or in case the tryal be long he must be Continued till the tryall finishes. He beares a white staff as badge of his great office which Indeed is ye greatest officer in England and for the tyme can act for the King, so above him. He is usually the person that is Lord Chancellor if he be a peer which allwayes is. There he sitts as Judge to whome the other peeres of the whole House of Lords are Joyn’d and after a full Examination on both sides, and the Criminall haveing had full Leave to Cleer himself, then the Lord High Steward askes ye Lords one by one beginning with the puny Lord, so to the highest “in honour my Lord such a one do you thinke my Lord that the prisoner at the Barre is guilty or not Guilty?”—to which Each Lord stands up and answeres for himself Either, so as he Judges, “guilty upon my honour,” or Else “not guilty upon my honour” and so it goes from one to all, in this manner the Lord High Steward marks down to Each Lords name his answere, and at the Last reckons them up so many Guiltyes, so many not Guiltyes, then he adds his own thoughts to the side he thinks best, but usualy he is so Crafty as to add to the side of the Majority, which being done he pronounces the verdict as ye majority said, Either Guilty or not. Now this verdict the Lords give thus on their honour is Equivalent to the oath the Commoners take that serve in Juryes, for ye peeres take no oath in these matters, otherwise than so. Now in Case ye matter against a peer be only a Law matter of nuise-prise, then the matter being debated and the answere by ye Lord made in his deffence read, and Councell pleading, then ye Lord High Steward askes Each Lord in same order as before, but in this forme “in ye matter which has been debated before yr Lord —— Concerning the Lord at the Barre wth his deffence whether his deffence be sufficient to Cleer him or not what sayes yr Lordships Content or not content on yr honour?” they all answer as they are affected or understand ye matter “content,” or else “not content” which are fixed to each name and so reckon’d up, and ye majority Carry’s it Either to quitt or not to quitt him, to which the Lord High Steward adds his as he pleases also, after which they shew the High Steward a respect as a king. He is serv’d on the knee and drinkes some wine and when that is done he breakes his white staff and so pulls off his hatt. When he was the High Steward he had all the maces Carry’d before him all ye officers attending. But in case there be no Chancellour, only a Lord Keeper as at present is, which is no peer of ye realme then he has no vote with ye Lords only Count up ye votes and declares them wch has the Majority, without the addition of his, haveing none, and he is only substituted the deputy steward for the day and so sitts, but on a wool sack as he does in the House of Lords and is only their speaker and officer and must aske Leave for himself and the Judges to put on their Caps before they might do it, now the High Steward sitts in the throne of justice under a Cannopy but I see this Lord Keeper only sate on a wool sack at the foote of the throne which stood Empty behind him. He had noe Compliment paid him more than at another tyme, being only as the Speaker to ye House of Lords and so their officer.
There are severall great officers of ye Court as Lord Treasurer which takes account of all the kings revenues—this sometymes is in Commision between 3 or more. There is also the High Admirall of England that has the Command of all the shipps and stores. This sometymes is in Comisions also of 3 or more under whome are ye Vice Admirall and Rear Admirall, also undr the Treasurer are severall officers. There is also two principal Secretaryes of State which write all things, the Kings Lettrs &c, and relateing to the government, maintain all Inteligences in ye kingdom and abroad.
There is also a Master of the Generall Post Office that has all the under masters and officers of ye posts both for forreign Letters and inland Lettrs.
There are also governours as Lord Lieutenant of Jreland—that sometymes is held in Commission. There is also Lords Justices there, all which have their Salleryes ariseing out of the same kingdom. There is also to all our forreign plantations governrs sent from England and their salleryes arise from the plantation. The Kings revenues arise from ye Customs of goods exported and jmported, from the Excise on all Liquors that are made in England and sold, besides which there is a Considerable revenue from Lands belonging to ye Crown, tho’ that is much Lessen’d by the severall donations of our kings for many yeares to their favourites. Out of those revenues all ye Civil List is maintain’d, which is ye Judges salleries, the great officers, the household of ye king. There is another great revenue in ye Post Office, besides at all Extraordinary occasions of the marriage of any of our princess’s their portion, or any warre, then the Parliament raises taxes on the nation on Land or trade, additional Customs, and also on the Excise, Encreasing that under the Civil List is the Expences of the Court, the guards, and also the ambassadors which are sent by the king into forreign kingdoms to treate matters for Each others good: their Expences while there are allowed and so of all Envoyes or Consulls wch are lesser Embassadours. There is also the maintaining the navy, building shipps, the wood of which Indeed is out of the King’s fforest.
There remaines now only in what manner the kings or queenes of England give publick audience to fforreigne ambassadours Either when they Come in their first Entrance or at the tyme of their takeing Leave; but first I may give account of our Bishops and Gentry. There is 26 Bishopricks with the two Archbishops Canterbury and york and there are as many Cittyes and Cathedralls which in my travells have described. All these Bishopricks are held of the Crown and are Given by the king, to whome is due the first fruites which is one yeares income of the Bishopricks. They are held for Life, true jndeed they admit of being removed from one Bishoprick to another for advancemt, nay they may forfeit their Bishoprick by not being qualify’d, if they will not sweare to be faithfull to ye government and so they may be suspended, as in ye Case of severall in the last revolution would not sweare to King William and Queen Mary and so now refuse also to sweare to her present Majesty Queen Ann. These Bishops are only Barrons in themselves, their wives have noe honnour thereby nor their Children; but for all peeres of England theirs is hereditary from father to son and their Ladies partake of it, nay ye honour descends on a daughter in default of male jssue. The peere must first be made Barrons by which they hold all their priviledges—Barrons of England—which is from ye king by patent; all his Children are Called ye honbl adding the Christian name to their sirname, and this remaines to daughters when marry’d. By this patent or another of ye same they may be Created viscount, Earles, Marquesses, dukes, and if they are dukes their patent Expresses all the four other titles. Alsoe viscounts Children are the same wth Barrons; and Earle’s, marquess, and duke’s are Called, the daughters Lady, by their Christian names, before and after marriage, unless they marry a Barron then they Lose yt name and are Called a Barroness and so Loses their place. The Eldest son of an Earle is Called Lord by his fathers title of Barron, the Eldest son of a Marquiss is Called Earle, by the title of his fathers Earledome, and all marquiss’s younger sons are Called Lord by their Christian name added to their sirname. So the same of dukes Children, the Eldest son is Called Marquiss. Now if any dowager to a Lord marry a Private Gentleman she in Law is sullied and has Lost her peeress, so if a Dutchess or Marquess or Countess or viscountess marry a Barron or Either of the degrees which was below her, she Looses it and is only Called as the Lady of the present peer She has marry’d now. Though these titles be given the noblemens sons and Daughters its not that they are really soe, for in our Law they are only Called and Esteemed in the first ranke of Gentlemen, and so take place before all Gentlemen wtsoever. The Lower titles made by patents by ye king is Barronets, and is differenc’d only from a Knight by takeing place of all knights and that it is hereditary and goes from father to son; a Knight only is for his own Life and the king makes them thus: any Gentleman that is to be made a knight kneeles down and ye king draws his sword asking him his Christian name, Layes the sword on his head and shoulder, and bids him rise up sir such a one as for Example Sr James Bateman our Last Sherriff &c. These severall titles and patents pays great fees to the severall officers according to the ranke, a Duke cost £1000—, so in proportion. Ye same manner the Knights of the Garter are made as other knights nevertheless it may be to those wch were dukes before. Their jnstallment is at Windsor Castle, in this manner: the herraulds which I have mentioned several tymes before as a part and management of all the Cerimony, and also the persons that studdy all matters of honours and are the Recorders of all the titles in England, and all their Coates of armour, and knows and keepes Each in their ranke at all Cerimonyes, and gives out their armes for Eschuteons at Every bodyes funeralls; they have an office just by Dr Commons by St Pauls Cathedrall. There is one Principal king at armes and 3 if not more other king at armes and other under herraulds and Sergeants, which all weare Coates with the kings armes all aboute it; these as I say officiates at the jnstalling for they record it and add the blew garter about such a Lords atchievement. Ye Cerimony I have in part described together with ye account of Windsor.
Maulbery is in view at some distance from ye adjacent hills and Lookes very fine, with a good river that turns many mills. Its buildings are good and Compact, one very Large streete where stands the market place and town hall, and at Each end the two Churches, its of a great Length jncludeing the two parishes, and the town stands itself on a high hill. Beyond one of the Churches is the Duke of Sommersets house, has been a greate Rambling building but now most pulled down and newly building, they were painting it, good appartments for what is done but none furnish’d, and its but one Wing and is built with drawing dineing roomes and bed Chambers with Closets and dressing-roomes and two StairCases and some roomes above, which is to have another such a wing on the other side and Joyn’d with a Greate hall.
The only Curious thing is out of ye bowling green. You go many stepps down into a Grass-walke with quick sett hedges cut Low, this Leads to the foote of the mount, and that you ascend from ye Left hand by an Easye ascent bounded by such quick sett hedges Cut Low, and soe you rise by degrees in 4 rounds bounded by the Low Cutt hedge, and on the top is with same hedge Cut in works, and from thence you have a prospect of ye town and Country round and two parishes two mile off in view, and the Low Grounds are watered with ditches, and this mount is Encompass’d about with such a Cannal which Emptys itself into a ffish pond, then it Empts itself into the river. There is a house built over the ffish pond to keep the ffish in. At the ffoote of the mount as I began out of a Green walke on the Left hand to ascend it, so on the Right hand Leads to another such a walke quite round by ye Cannall to the other side of ye bowling-green. In the midst of ye top of the mount was a house built and pond but thats fallen down. Halfe way down is a seate opposite to ye dwelling house which is Brick’d. Maulbery is one of the towns in Wiltshire ye quarter sessions is kept in, its 8 mile to Hungerford over Savernack Forrest where is many deer. Ffrom Hungerford to Newbury in Barkshire 7 mile all very deep way, 15 mile thence to Reading in Barkshire flatt way, but ye vale is heavy sand for 3 or 4 mile. Reading is the shire town, its pretty Large and accomodated for travellers being a great Road to Gloucester and ye West Country, but it is very dear.
From London to Rusbery 18 mile by Stanes—pretty house and gardens in sight of Windsor in Buckinghamshire—thence Uxbridge 7 mile, pretty good way, thence Amersham 9 mile all in the Alesbury road, thence Barkminstead 6 Long miles, steep hills into Hartfordshire, a good market town, good jnns, thence Dunstable 7 or 9 Long miles steep hills, thence Arsly in Bedfordshire 10 mile, which I Entred at Astick 2 mile from Arlsy, 2 good old houses of the Edwards and Browns, but this was base way, narrow, and Lanes Rooty and Long. Thence Bedford town 9 miles good way, a village in a mile or two distance, Hanlow, Clifton Sheford Checkston and Bedford. Ye great road Comes in good way, thence Turvoy 5 mile belonging to the Earle of Peterborough where he was.
They make much bonelace in these towns. In the Church are fine tombs and monuments of that familly, the first with two Ladyes on Each side, he higher, one in a widdows dress all marble finely Gilt and painted on a bed, and Rowles of Matt very naturall at their head and feete. There was another and the Lady dyed in Childbed the Child by her Costly Carved and Gilt and 4 beadmen at the feete (he allowed for four old mens maintenance), by it another and his Lady all rich marble Gilt and painted.
Here I Enter Buckinghamshire againe over the Bridge, so to Northampton 10 mile over a pretty good road, and Entred the shire within 4 mile of the town.
I describe nothing more of Northampton, but the Church was finish’d, the Entrance with a breast wall and paved and stepps within round 3 sides of the Church, which was begun wn I was there before. So I proceeded on to Litchfield very good way as Exactly straight as a Line, the Whatling Streete way, but it was deep heavy ground as in all these Rich Countrys. I passed between two noble seates, Homby on the Right hand on the side of a hill in woods, stone buildings with towers almost Like a Castle, old built, the rows of trees Exact on Each side and avenues, which is Earle of Ffevershams. The other on the left hand Lay Low within a thicket of wood on all sides but the front, where it appear’d Like a Princes Court of Brick and Stone, very fine, Lord Sunderlands, with a Large Parke walled in of a good Extent. Thus I went to a Bridge not very Large of stone but it is the Boundary of three Countys.
I pass’d from Northampton into Leicestershire with Warwickshire on my Left hand, and so went to a Rich Land, here it Lookes of a Redder Earth.
I Came to Cross wayes where was a Latterworth hand poynting 4 wayes to Coventry, Leicester, London, and Litchfield, and some thing farther to High Crosse which is Esteemed ye middle of England, where the two great Roads meete that divides the Kingdom in the Saxons tyme in 4 parts, the Whatling Streete on which still I Continued, and the Ffosse way; thus to a Little place Called Smockington, fitted for jnns, on a Road, very Comodious. Here I Lay in Warwickshire 10 mile, thence 6 mile to Anderton and Talmouth 7, where I Enter Staffordshire, soe Litchfield 6 mile, thence Woolsly Eight, from thence to Budsworth, Lord Pagets in a ffine Parke, Large Coale mines about it. The house is old but the front very regular, 3 Juttings out, Large Compass windows, a good Little parlour, out of the hall another Large one with drawing roome and bed Chamber and good back staires and Entrys, Large Light fit for attendance. then you go up and Enter a dineing roome, drawing roome and Chamber, a Long gallery that is the Length of the house and broad, and which adds to its greatness. The End opens doores on a terrass out in the garden of same breadth and Length up to an orchard or wilderness which Lookes very nobly. Here at Each End is two good Chambers of state, Lofty, with anty Chambers and for servants and back staires. There are many very good roomes of a second rate wch if well ffurnish’d would Look well. The Leads are a greate many stepps up on the top, a Large Cupilow of windows, and ye walls round ye Leads are so high a person of a middle stature Cannot Look over them scarce when on tiptoe, which is a Greate Lessening of its beauty wch would give a Large prospect round of the Country of 10 or 12 miles off. There is an addition of new wall on the battlements wch is visible so its Likely it was from some accident from ye Leads Enduced ye walls being built higher. This Lord has a greate Command and Royalty in the County, the Kank forrest of 20 mile is his, most of ye gentlemen in the County pay him Chiefe Rent and some hold Right in some of their Land by waiteing on him on some solemn feast dayes in the yeare, and bring up his dinner and waite on him as he Eates, if then in the Country. But these things are better wav’d then sought and is not done few tymes in an age to keep up the Custom.
Ffrom Woolsly after an 8 weekes stay I went to Wolverhampton 11 long mile, then to Church-hill neare Sturbridge 9 or 10 mile farther, by the many Glasshouses where they Blow Broad Glass, but they were not at work on that sort when I was there. At Church-hill was at a farmer Like a Gentleman’s, a new pretty house of brick, but wanted ffurniture and Cleaneing and good order, but a hearty Mr and Mrs. The hill is pretty high and gives a great view of the Country which most belongs to Mr Foley-Tom of 10,000£—Large Comonage, there he has a Little Lodge, new brick; his own house is 6 or 10 mile thence all within his own grounds, and has great jron works and mines, this is within two mile of Kederminster, as farre on the other side to Sturbridge. Thence I went to Worcester town a sandy way, and here are in some places quicksands. This is a 10 Long mile to Worcester but pretty flatt way for the most part, thence to Newhouse 12 or 14, the basest way for hills, stony narrow hollow wayes very difficult to pass.
I went from Newhouse to Stoake four miles, Mr Foley’s the speaker’s son has a very fine pile of building, the wing to Herreford being now up in the Shell, which is all for state, great parlour, drawing roome, and bed Chambers, with their appendixes and backstaires, and a great staircase with Chambers over for state. This is Entred into out of the Greate hall, the middle of the house raiseing many stepps out of the Court, the Entrance to which on Each side has buildings uniform for Coach house stables, dairy out houses. The wing to the garden side is finish’d, being their appartment, a pretty staircase that two Easily go up, light from the Skye, jron railes and barristers, this from an arch jsle below which goes to the kitchen, and hath a doore into this front Court and into the gate backward, tho’ not visible on the garden side by ye disguise of painting. From this you ascend these staires to the dineing roome which is Even to the great hall and must Enter from it when ffinish’d. Out of this on the Right hand was Mr Paul Folie’s the father’s studdy, long and Large, with back staires and a servants roome. On the Left hand is a drawing roome, beyond his Ladys bed Chamber, Closet and Servants roome, and next it are these staires of jron Railes that goes up to the next stage, which is over this same wing and is the appartment of the young Mr Folie and his Lady which now is the heir and in possession.
There is their Chamber, her fine Closet, a servants roome and a Large studdy for him; there is also two Large Chambers for strangers which takes the whole wing over the dineing roome and studdy. There is also a Little roome at the end for strangers opposite to Mr folie’s roome which Lookes to the front. This dineing roome is what they Eate in allwayes—is well wanscoated. There is a fountaine bason just faceing ye balcony doore that Leads to a terrass paved with black and white marble and jron palisadoes; it has a long space and broad for walking and two Enclosed on Each side by same jron work a step up or two these doores from ye Ladies Closet and the Studdy, out on them in the middle goes the staires two wayes, all jron work, and meete halfe way and Joyne in ye next descent on Gravel, which is in a halfe moon and so design’d to be Left in a Low place with a Cascade beneath, and the Gravell walke and grass walks to go by it and beyond it in many rows of trees. The walled Gardens and walks one below another. This terrass gives a vast prospect of the Country, it being scituated on the ascent of a hill. Many rows of trees in Meadows below it adds to its beauty being all within his own Ground, he has a Great Estate and a Great parke up above it with Great woods. The adornment of the Rooffe is flower potts and ffigures Globes and Scallop shells, it will be noble Compleate buildings and deserves 10000£ a yeare to Live Like it.
The offices are all below and Even with the first Entrance of the ffront, what is ffinished is neate good wanscoate and tapistry, there is two or three damaske beds and one velvet one what they had before, so noe new ffurniture but ye best wing noe doubt will be finely finish’d and furnish’d. The prospect is Large and jndeed to view, at Least in the summer and in Drye tyme, Herrifordshire is Like a fruitfull Garden. Near Richards Castle is the Bone well a fountain alway full of ffish and ffroggs bones tho’ often Cleared of them yet still renewed.
Ffrom Newhouse I Came over Maubern Hills which are Like the Alps and have had much wet, the roads deep and difficult, to upton in Worcester 10 mile, where I pass the severn on a stone bridge—here it is not broad. Thence Pursha 5 mile, thence Esham 4 and Weston 4, in Glocestershire to my Cos’n Ffiennes, thence to Morton Hindmost up a vast stony high hazardous hill of neare two mile Long ascending all the way from Weston—this is in sight of Cambden—so to Morton, 6 miles down as steep a stony hill 2 mile before I Came to my aunts. Thence to Broughton in Oxfordshire passing by 4 shires stone—Warwick, Worcester, Glocester and Oxfordshire, and so by Kingston; thence to oxford 18, Abbington where is a fine town Hall for the Judges, two barrs and all seates aboute set on stone pillars, the staires to the top is about 100, ye Leads fine and gives a Large prospect all about. There is halfe way the staires, a place to go in and in Gallerys round Company may stand to heare Causes all above the Judges heads—this is Buckinghamshire. Then to Newbery by Market Hillsly its 16 mile, which town has been famous for whipps and presents a King or Queen when they pass through it with one of great price and also wth a purse of Gold. From thence to Way hill through Lanes and woods 14 mile, this is in Hampshire, thence to Newtontony in Wiltshire 6 mile.
Some account of Epsome in Surrey about ten miles from London. Its on Clay and Gravel, the waters are from Alum. The well is Large without Bason or Pavement, on the bottom it is Covered over with timber and is so darke you Can scarce Look down into it for which Cause I do dislike it. Its not a quick spring and very often is dranke drye, and to make up the defficiency the people do often carry water from Common wells to fill this in a morning; this they have been found out in which makes the water weake and of Little opperation unless you Can have it first from the well before they Can have put in any other. The usual way of drinking them is by turning them with a Little milk. There is a walk of trees by it, but not very pleasant, there is a house built in which the well is and that is paved with brick to walke in in the wet weather, and where people have Carrawayes sweetemeates and tea &c, but it Look’d so dark and unpleasant more Like a Dungeon, yt I would not Chuse to drinke it there, and most people drink it at home. There are severall good Buildings in Epsome for Lodgings and good Gardens behind them for walking. There is a good house of the Ld Bartlets in a parke at the End of the town Looks very well. The Greatest pleasure of Emson is Either Banstead Downs where is good aire and good rideing for Coaches and horses, with a pleasant view of ye Country, or Else Box Hill which is 6 or 7 miles off and is the Continuation of the Ridge of hills I mentiond by Maidstone; its a Greate height and shows you a vast precipice down on the farther side, and such a vast vale full of woods Enclosures and Little towns. There is a very good river that runs by a Little town Called Darken just at the foote of this hill, very famous for good troutts and great store of ffish. On this hill the top is Cover’d with box whence its name proceeds, and there is other wood but its all Cutt in Long private walks very shady and pleasant, and this is a great diversion to the Company and would be more ffrequented if nearer Epsom town.
About 4 miles off is Sr Robert Howards house which I went to see, its a Square building, the yards and offices very Convenient about it, and severall Gardens walled in. All the windows are sashes and Large squares of glass; I observ’d they are double sashes to make ye house the warmer, for it Stands pretty bleake. Its a brick building. You Enter a hall which opens to the Garden, thence to two parlours, drawing-roomes and good staires, there are abundance of Pictures, above is a Dineing roome and drawing roome with very good tapistry-hangings of Long standing. There is severall bed Chambers well ffurnish’d, good damaske beds and hangings and window Curtaines of the same, and so neatly kept ffolded up in Clean sheets pinn’d about the beds and hangings. There are severall other good beds and ffurniture, one roome all ye bed and hangings are of a fine damaske made of worsted, it Lookes pretty and with a Gloss Like Camlett, of a Light Ash Coullour. There are good pictures of the family, Sr Robert’s Son and Lady, which was a Daughter of the Newport house, with her Children in a very Large Picture. There is fine adornements of Glass on the Chimney and fine marble Chimney pieces, some Closets with Inlaid floores, its all very neate and fine with the several Courts at the Entrance—this I thinke was all remarkable at Epsome which is 14 mile to London.
Another Journey to Broughton in Oxfordshire, my brother’s, and now my nephew’s house, the Lord Say and Seale. I went by Hartfordshire and Bedford from London to Wane 20 mile, thence to Hitching 14 miles, most in Lanes and deep Land, and in the winter bad Roads, but very good Land—good Corn—the wheate Look’d well but Grass and Summer Corn wanted rain, being a drye Spring. Thence to Bedford town 12 mile more, these miles are Longer than those about London and much in Lanes and woods.
Bedford town is an old Building, its wash’d by the river Ouse which Comes from Buckingham and is here Broader than in most places till it reaches Yorke; its stored with very good ffish and those which have Gardens on its brinke keepes sort of trunck or what they Call them. Its a Receptacle of wood of a pretty size full of holes to Let the water in and out, here they keep the ffish they Catch as pike, perch, tench &c, so they have it readye for their use, this is of mighty advantage Especially for the Publick houses—you see the ffish taken out ffresh for supper or dinner. The river runns twineing about and runns into severall notches of Ground wch is sett full of willows, and many Little boates Chained to the sides belonging to ye people of the town for their diversion. It runns by a Ground which is made into a fine bowling-green, its upon a hill and a pretty ascent from the river that is besett with willows all round beneath; ye bowling green is well kept with Seates and summer houses in it for the use of the town and Country Gentlemen of which many resort to it Especially the market dayes. At the Entrance of the town you pass over ye river on a bridge which has a gate on it and some houses—this river beares barges. These truncks or Baskets which keepes the ffish are ffastned by Chaines to the sides of the Banks in each mans Garden. There is nothing worth notice in the town, severall streetes small and old, the middle streete which runns from ye Bridge is pretty broad, wherein stands ye market place and house which is on severall stone pillars and raill’d in. There is above it roomes which were design’d for the session and publick Buissness of the town by the Lord Russell that built it, but his untimely death, being beheaded, put a stop to its ffinishing. They now put it to noe use but spinning haveing begun to set up the woollen worke, but its Just in its Infancy. Over this is the top which is flatt rooff’d Leaded and railed in, from thence you see the whole town and Country round.
There is a pretty many Gentry about ye Country neare neighbours, and many Live in the town tho’ in such old houses. From thence I went to Asply 8 mile where the Earth turns wood into stone and had a piece of it; it seemes its only one sort of wood the Aldertree which turns so, and Lay or drive a paile or Stake into the ground there in seven yeares its petrify’d into stone, from thence to Onborn wch is 3 mile more.
Here is the Duke of Bedfords house which I had seen before with the fine Gardens and parke, so proceeded on to Dunstable 9 miles ffarther where I staid and dined with my kinswoman my aunt Woolsley’s Daughter marry’d to a Dr of physick Dr Marsh, and from thence I went to Laighton Buserd and thence to Whinslow about 12 mile—this is in Buckinghamshire—thence to Broughton in Oxfordshire 17 mile, and staid a weeke and then returned through oxfford Citty 18 mile, and so to London 48 mile more.
Epsom is 15 miles from London, there are great curiosityes in cut hedges and trees almost before all doores. They have trees in rows which they cut up smooth and about 3 or 4 yards up, they Lay frames of wood in manner of a pent house, so plat the branches on it and cuts it smooth, they leave the stem of the tree to run up and then cut it clear to the top wch they cut in round heads. There are severall good houses in or about Epsham—Sr Robt Howard’s wch I have described, Mr Wessell’s now Mr Scawen’s. There is Lord Baltimores in Woodcut Green Encompass’d wth a wall at the Entrance—a breast wall with pallisadoes. Large courts one within the other and a back way to ye stables where is a pretty horse pond. The house is old but Low, tho’ Large,—run over much ground. In ffront 6 windows and in the top just in the middle 12 Chimneys in a row, being 3 and 3 below Joyning back to back and 3 and 3 above; the others Looke into a Court wch is built round. As I drove by the side saw broad Chimneys on the End, and at due distance on the side on both Ends ye sides of a Court, wch is terminated in a building on wch is a Lead wth railes and Barristers.
That house which is now Lord Guilfords at another side of Epsham, Lookes nobly in a fine parke pailed round. Severall rows of trees in the front of all sorts—Lofty, and some cut Piramidy, some suger-Loafe or rather Like a mushrom-top. The front has 6 Large windows and the doore wch is glass, as many on the next story. You Enter by a Large Court wch is on ye Left side—Stable court; to the right into ye Gardens, fore right you Enter a broad tarass railed in and Paved with stone, you enter a noble Lofty hall, plaine but neate, painted white. On ye right is a Little parlour, the lesser hall hung wth armes, a butler’s office, with bedchambers and Closets, thence goes ye Kitchen, schullery, bakeing room and Laundry into a Court of all ye offices and the stable yard. Out of ye Little parlour goes into a pretty Chappel which has a balcony closet looking into it for the Lord and Lady.
The Left hand of ye hall Led into a great parlour wch runnes to the End of the house, and makes the ffront, and short again into another great parlour or dineing roome which makes ye End ffront of the house; this also opens into ye staircase, it Leads on to a drawing roome, Closet, bed Chamber, two dressing roomes, wch with ye great staircase makes up ye ffront backward and the other End ffront, wch Lookes into ye stable yard and a garden railed in wth a Large pond or Cannall. The back ffront goes out into a garden or Court wth Gravel walks round, and a Crosse wch cuts it into 4 grassplotts where are Brass statues, and Leads out through fine jron Carved gates as at the ffront out into ye highway. The right End ffront of ye house is into ye Garden. Out of both of ye great parlours and drawing roome two Entrances at an Equal distance upon gravell walks. This garden is gravell’d round. Ye two middle walks run up to a double mount which cast the garden into 3 Long grass walks wch also are very broad, wth 3 flower potts. There are two degrees of stepps to Each of these Gravell walks, the first lands on a Gravell that turns in a 3 side square wch shapes ye upper mount. The Long gravell walke to ye right hand runns aCrosse the mount to a thicket that Enters ye Grove and is Lost. The other to the Left runns up the whole Length of ye grove up to white gates and open views into ye parke. The two Ends of the Little square gravel walke round the first mount terminates on the right in same thicket or Grove, and has only for show a Carved frame as a gate, wth wood carv’d Like Cage work painted white, with an arch Entrance in the middle for form sake, to make it Look uniforme to the Like on ye Left, wch Leads to a walk as Long as the Gravell up to the wall, and is directly arbour. Like high trees, Cut up to the top and with heads which close in an arch—in the middle is Long white seates. There are two or three Lesser walks wch run across it to ye right into the Grove and Lost in the maze; to the Left to another Long walk wch Leads to a Grotto and runs parralel wth ye gravel walke to the top. You Enter a space paved and open arch’d round in seates like a Court, and thence you Enter the Grotto, an arch Entirely dark but at the Entrance it is so Large as 6 arched seates, and between carv’d stone very fine of all sorts of flowers, ffigures, ffruites; ye Pillars or Peers pretty broad. this ran up to a sumerhouse at the End, wch is grown over with greens cut smooth—windows all round. Below this is a broad green walke wch begins at the first Garden and so continues round wth ye wall quite to that broad Gravel walke, and is continued by ye wall quite Encompassing ye maze, in wch are some slaunt cut wayes, and it terminates in the other side of the first Garden just by a garden railed in in which is a Large pond, square in nature of a cannall, the bank green Cut fine, and borders for flowers and greens, and a Breast wall to the first Garden, on wch are flower potts. On the upper mount—all the grass and bank Even cut—Stands 4 flower potts painted blew—Some red on ye 3 divisions—ye gravell Cut out as on the Margin.
Ffrom the Hall you go to ye staircase, there is also a doore out of the second parlour. This is noble and Lofty all plain wanscoate, only ye halfe paces inlaid. The first is a window the whole height, 13 Large pannells in Length, 5 in breadth, which Lookes into one of the Courts where the pond is and stable yard. The next half pace Leads you on ye Left hand to the private appartment that is not so Lofty, over ye Least hall to an anty roome, thence a dineing roome, soe drawing roome 5 bed Chambers and Closetts. The Last Closett goes into a balcony wch runs aCross ye middle of said Lofty window, and Looks into the staircase. Out of ye Eating or dineing roome goes a Closett for ye Ladyes into ye Chappell wth very good back staires up to ye top roomes. Ye great staires continues up to the Gallery and turns in a long halfe pace, wch Enters it at two doores in Equal distances. Its a Lofty, Large as well as Long roome, noe painting or frettwork. At Each End are severall handsome bedChambers and Closetts but none ffurnish’d, but ye private appartments has pladd Chamlet damaske neatly made up, not new, Glass sconces, and over the Chimney, looking glasses in frames. The parke is fine but not stock’d, wch when it is and house ffurnish’d will be a noble seate.
There is another house of Mr Ruths who married Lady Dennagall is new and neate. The Entrance is a space the breadth of ye Court and ffront, rail’d in and opening in ye middle wth sort of wicket, two such at Each End wth heavye Latches to pull up, and the gate swings both wayes. There is a brick wall wth peers and breast high, and jron pallisadoes of a good breadth Each side the gate, wch is Carv’d jron work wth a Deer on the top of a Cypher, and an oaken tree Cut a top; the two first peers are wth Great flower potts, those on ye Peeres Each side ye jron works Lesser flower potts. Beyond are the gates into the coach yard, wch with the Stables is a neate Pile of Buildings by it self. Just on ye other side is such a building the kitchen and offices and little Laundry Court, and here is the back Entrance through a Long brick Entry open on one side, but a wall to ye Court side and house, and Enters into a passage that Leads to a little hall brick’t, wth roomes for ye buttler and a batheing roome. By it is a Large hall paved wth stone and thence is one way into the garden. Under the staires and balcony that descends from ye dineing roome in ye first passage are staires wch brings to a space that turns up to the Great staires and roomes.
The ffront Entrance is into a handsome Court, one Large paved walke in the middle between Grass, the borders round of flowers, ye wall wth trees. You ascend some stepps to a broad terrass paved and with a breast wall sett wth flower potts. This is the breadth of the house and at Each End two Large white seates wth arches over ye head. You Enter a step or two to this space wch Leads to ye staires on ye Left to a little parlour wanscoted, white in veines and gold mouldings, a neat Booffett ffurnish’d with Glasses and china for the table, a Cistern below into which the water turn’d from a Cock, and a hole at bottom to Let it out at pleasure. Wth in this roome was a Large Closet or musick roome, on the other side was a dineing room wth a balcony door wch has staires to ye garden in a round with half paces and jron railes. Thence is a drawing roome, beyond that a Closet that comes out into a little passage to the staircase, wch is Large and makes the fourth part of the house; they are wanscoate varnish’d and the Lower step or two Larger, and ye other End is in a turn. The half paces are strip’d, the wood put wth ye Graine, the next slip against the Graine, wch makes it Looke pretty as if Inlaid.
You Enter one roome hung with Crosstitch in silks, the bed the same Lined wth yellow and white strip’d sattin, window Curtaines white silk damaske wth furbellows of Callicoe printed flowers, the Chaires Crosstitch and two stooles of yellow Mohaire wth Crostitch, true Lower knotts in straps along and a Cross, an Elbow Chaire tentstitch; Glasses over all ye Chimneys and Marble pieces. The windows in all the roomes had Cusheons. The next roome was Lady Dennagalls Chamber and Closet hung wth very rich tapistry, the bed Crimson damaske Lined wth white Jndia sattin, wth Gold and Crimson flowers printed; the Chaires, one red damaske, the other Crostitch and tentstitch very Rich, soe round the roome. The Closet, Green damaske Chaires, and many fine pictures under Glasses, of tentstitch sattin stitch Gumm and strawwork, also jndia flowers birds &c. The roome over the Little parlour was Mrs Ruths, a pladd bed Lined wth Jndian Callicoe, and an Jndia Carpet on the bed—wth in was her Closet. Over this are good Garretts and staires to the Leads wch shews you all about the town.
The first garden is square, the walls full of trees and nail’d neate, an apricote, peach, plumb, necktarine, wch spread but not very high; between Each is a cherry stript up to the top and spreads, Composeing an arch over the others. There are borders of flowers round and a handsome Gravel round. The Grass plott is Large; in the middle a little Gravel in an oval or round, where is a Large fountain of stone full of stone Images to spout the water. This Garden is the breadth of the dwelleing house—the dineing roome and drawing roome Looke into it.
Out of this (which is ffenced by a breast wall wth jron pallasadoes painted blew wth Gilt topp) you ascend severall stepps through an jronwork’d gate to a ground divided into Long grass walks, severall of wch ascends ye hill and between the Ground improv’d wth Dwarfe trees of ffruite and flowers and greenes in all shapes, intermixt wth beds of strawberyes for ornament and use. Thus to another bank wth stepps to a Green Cross walke, and then more trees and devices. Thence to two mounts cut smoothe—between is a Cannall. These mounts are severall stepps up under which are jce houses; they are a square fflatt on the top ffenced with banks round and seates, beyond which is a summer house in a tree, which shews a great way off the Country. There are Low Cut hedges on Each bank, and painted sticks wth Gilt tops in ye greens and flower potts, and thus is one terrass above another. Over their stables are Chambers for ye men, over the Kitchen and Dairy and buttery and scullery are roomes for Laundry, and for the maids.
Sr Thomas Cooke’s house has such an Enclosed walk before the gate, wth swinging gates at Each End and a Larger in the middle.
Without it is a Row of oakes wth thick heads wch makes it very shady. You Enter a Close gate into a Court, wth a broad paved walk between two Large Grass-plotts, besett wth Green Cyprus yew and holly in Piramids, and two Large Statues in the middle, the wall Clothed wth box holly filleroy cut even. The ffront is two juttings out at the Ends flatt in the middle Like a half Roman H. You Rise a step or two into a good Hall pav’d wth black and white marble, the sides painted black and white resembling nitches or arches for seates. On the Right hand is a good Dineing roome wanscoated oake without varnish, the pannell Large, and within a drawing roome wch Lookes into the garden, wanscoated. Over, Right, another square one. Between these runs an Entry, where in are Closets, and ye Butlers office, to ye Kitchen and offices, into ye Stable, Coach yard and into a Laundry Court. In the Middle ffronting ye Entrance is a Door into ye garden. Just by is a Servants hall and way to ye Cellars under. The Great Staires noble and Lofty, all wanscoate, hung wth very good pictures. Above in the rooffe is frettwork and an oval Curiously painted with angells and ffigures.
Here are two very Good appartments, bed Chambers dressing-roome, Closets and presses; besides there are two other good Chambers wth Closets, and one Large roome—ye frame of ye Chimney piece carv’d with all variety of fruites, herbes &c painted proper and all hollow work. Very good Pictures in all ye roomes over Chimneys and doores, all fix’d into ye wanscoate,—noe ffurniture. There is a very good pr of back staires goes hence up to ye Garret’s, one very Large, 6 other, besides Little room. There you ascend into a Cupilow, windows round shews a vast prospect of the place; from thence you may descend another such a good pr of back staires to ye kitchen. The Garden is in forme as Mr Ruth’s first flatt, but Larger, wth a Larger fountaine, walled in wth ffree stone, a pedistal wth Little Cupids and Dolphins and shells on wch are Images, and on ye top a Crown made all to spout out water. The walls full of fruite, in ye middle you ascend severall stepps to a bank on wch are jron painted pallasadoes wth Gilt top; gates to the same. Here is a Large square wth green walks and gravell and ovall in the middle, with devices of Little paths of gravell to Cut the grass into shapes, squares and 3 squares. In the middle stands a Gladiator on a pedistal, and on ye walls are Cupids at each riseing of the walls for the bank. On the Left side is a summer house wth paints of the seasons of ye yeare. Thence into another Garden for kitchen stuff and hott beds, with convenient houses. From this great fflatt you ascend severall stepps at three places—equal distance, and then Long green walks between borders of strawberies, dwarf trees, and some wth green squares sett with Cyprus, Mirtle, yew, Holly cut fine and flowers, thus three severall bancks, the spaces so adorn’d. Then you pass on to a long green walke, the Right side or End is a fine summer house, the bank all along guarded with dwarffe trees; the other to ye field side rowes of tall walnuts, with quick sett hedges cutt. This Carryes on not only the breadth of the house but the Length of the whole ground, wch is for ye other garden for use; and just at the End of the pleasure garden begins a Large and Long pond or Cannall—ye Length of the walke, wch is its bank cut fine. There is another great pond on the Right side of the house, and two more in the grounds belonging to it on the Left.
Mrs Steeven has a very pretty neate house and gardens, before the doore is a part railed in as before, only this is Close at Each end wth high wall and seates. In the middle is a gate wch Leads to the gate of the Court, grass walled round, a broad pavement to the house, and round Stepps—4 or 5. You Enter into a passage wch Leads to a little parlour, thence a step or two down to an Entry, wch Leads away to a Little Court or passage, which runs to the streete and back to ye garden.
On one side is a building, a summer parlour for a still roome, wth brick kitchen and offices and Coach house and stables, wth Chambers over for the men. There is in the first parlour a Large Closet, on the Left is a Large parlour and drawing-roome, all very neate and well wanscoated. Under the staircase is a little roome for a butler, thence the staires to the Cellars; this is between the back staires wch are very good and light, and wanscoated up to the garrets, and the great staires wch are very handsome painted white, the Rooffe an oval of Cupids. Here are two handsome Chambers with dressing-roomes and light and dark Closets and presses. Next floore is to such appartments againe. Over all are three good Garrets and two roomes for stores, and it is sashed up to the top wth Low windows to sit in. Every Corner is improved for Cupboards and necessarys, and the doores to them made suiteable to ye wanscoate. The garden goes out opposite to ye Entrance the walls full of all fruite neately kept. Here are six Grass walks three and three, guarded wth dwarfe fruite trees, a Large gravell walk round by the wall, and gravell between Each Grass walk. The front is a breast wall wth a yew hedge cut neate, and jron pallisadoes painten and Gilt tops, with gates Leading to another Garden of grass Cut in shapes and knotts, wth flowers and all sorts of greens cut in shapes, wth paths of Gravel to fform them. On the Left side a Coddling hedge secured a walke of orange and Lemmon trees in perfection. This is Closed with a green house all the breadth of the garden, through wch you Enter another of fflowers; thence into orchard and kitchen garden wch is Cast in Exact forms to Look neate. In the green Garden was Large alloes plants and all sorts of Perpetualls as well as annualls.
There are abundance of houses built of brick, with fine gardens and Courts, wth open gates and railes to view, wch are used as Lodgings for the Company; and now the wells are built about, and a Large Light roome to walk in brick’d, and a pump put on the well. A Coffee house and two roomes for gameing, and shops for sweetmeates and fruite. Monday morning is their day, the Company meete and then they have some Little diversion, as raceing of boys or Rabbets or Piggs. In the Evening the company meete in the Greenes, first in the upper Green many steps up, where are Gentlemen Bowling, Ladyes walking. There are Little Shopps and a gameing or danceing roome, the same man at the wells keepes it, sells Coffee there also. The Lower green is not farr off—just in the heart of the town: its a much neater green and warmer. The whole side of this is a very Large roome wth Large sashe windows to the green, wth Cusheons in the windows and seates all along. There are two hazard boards; at the End is a Milliner and China Shop, this is belonging to the Great tavern or Eateing house, and all the Length of this roome to the street ward is a Piaza wall, and a row of trees Cutt and platted together as the ffashion of the place, wth tops running up a top with heads. The Crosse in the Streete has a Good Clock.
On the hill where is the race posts they have made a ring as in Hide Parke, and they Come in Coaches and drive round, but it is only Lords day nights and some nights. There has been 40 Coaches and six which are the Gentlemen in the County round, and 20 and 2 horses. The Company in ye town Epshum shall be Clutter’d wth Company from Satturday to Tuesday and then they many times goe, being so neare London, so come againe on more Satturdays.
Ffrom Epsham I went to Banstead where the parson of the Parish has diverted himself in his garden these fifty yeares, is now old and doates, but has Curious hedges, one Garden wth Grass plotts and Earth walks Cut and wedd. His grass plotts has stones of divers fformes and sizes which he names Gods and Goddesses; and hedges and arbours of thorn soe neately Cut, and in all ffigures in great rounds. One is a Large arbour: You Enter a straite passage as unto a Cell, but within a roome, round yt by a narrow Entry you Come to a Large Square with trees and seates, all quick sett hedges cut fine. One is a tree wch the ivy has Covered and there are staires up directly upright, and on ye top is an Eight square Bench—round, the Green grows up Close about it cut even, this he Calls “Tenneriff” being in that fform. Next it is another tree, there is a fflatt and on it is a table or stoole on wch is a Great white stone in form of some statue that apole wth 9 stones round less the muses—this is Parnassus. There are severall heads painted wch are named Mogul Grand Seignior, Cham of Tartary, Zarr of Muscovy, placed in severall places. Another Garden is Grass plotts wth yews and holly Lawrells, round this on the bank is sett stones very thick, some very much bigger for officers, this is the whole Confederate army and their Generalls. Here is a trumpeter, Hercules and Bacchus and a hedge of Lawrell 7 foote broad. Here are also two trees Cover’d with Ivy and thorne Cut smooth and made in ffashion of two great pillars for Hercules pillars. There is in ye middle some platted together and makes a Cover to a seate below, and there is a Rose Cut out—you may talk as under the Rose. In his house he has many Curiosetyes of stones, one like a brick of bread, another Like a shoulder of mutton, a piece of wood from an old tree as Like a mounteer capp wth a button on the top, another like a furbellow’d peticoat, another stone like an apple paired and a piece Cut out and grown Deadish—its said this is Petrify’d into stone as the moss in Knarsborough and the wood at Apsley in Bedfordshire; here were many Shells, Birds, jndian shoes, bootes, purses &c.
Ffrom Epsham to Leatherhead 3 mile, we pass by Sr Robert Howards which I have described. Here is a little town where they make much Leather, and other little trades, many Butchers which supply Epsham. Here it is that the water which sinks away at Swallow hole at Mole under Box Hill which is 7 mile off, and here it Bubbles up in twenty places from a hill, and Compases a great river half a mile off, over which a long bridge of 14 great arches of stone by their Height shews sometimes the water to be very deep. A little farther its so deep as cannot be fforded, here the Channell is not so broad, only four Large Arches. We goe over thence a mile and halfe to Mr Moores ffine house on a hill, its built wth brick and stone Coyned, and the windows Stone, nine sashes to the Garden; the jutting out in the middle is three windows. The top is in a peak painted frisco, and a Cornish round on Each side; a low building Each End Like Wings wth same Cornish Leaded and flower potts on it, wch are the offices on one Side, and Lead to a summer House and backward to the private Entrance, a Court yt you ascend by steps of stone and jron barristers with turnings and halfe paces to the part of ye house in Constant use. The ffront in the Entrance is as the Garden, only here are but Eight windows, only two in the middle jutting the top, and that here you see not those two Low wings. You Enter by the Church yard, noe great Court or roome for it, a very Little court wch on the right hand Leads into ye garden on a banck green walke, to a seate or summer house finely painted and stands on four pillars. Within this Leads into a gravel walk wch goes round ye first Garden. The summer house you might pass through to the same green banck walk, which Leads to a broad Grass walk on the right hand up the hill near a quarter of a mile, Each side planted wth trees, and ye ground some for kitchen gardens orchards hott beds. The top of the hill has two white seates and a summer house, this has white open gates, Large as the walk. Here is a very fine pond runs across the breadth of the gardens and orchards. The Garden at the house is all flatt, much in Grass walks and bancks sett wth green, most yews. There is a great gravel walk to the fountain from the middle of the house, wch is filled by a Long Cannall as broad as the walk; at the farther End is a trion gilt, with a horn wch can blow the water 20 yards. Here are seates on the bancks, and ye ground is set much in Grass walks wth dwarfe greens, which Cutts the grass plotts into four, which are Cutt into fflower deluces and Severall Devices wth paths of Gravell, borders of mould, in which are greens of all sorts, Piramids and then round jnterchangeable. Beyond this is another space as Large, wth a round space wth a Large stone ffigure, and severall Less ffigures of brass in the little squares and strapps of grass, wch was fform’d by Cross and round gravell walks. There is two broad Gravell walks runns aslaunt like two wings from the first garden, as it were parrallel wth the Cannall, and these terminate in a wood wch has a Glide through trees Cut aslant, agreable to the walks to give the view quite to Hampton town.
Thence to Hampton Court by Kingston 6 mile, all by the park, the palace Enters just by the Thames. On the gate is Lyon, Unicorn and fflower potts, the Starre and garter and Draggon ye thistle and rose Carv’d. Here is a space where the Stables on one side and houses for suttlers for to provide for the servants. The front is in a Demy Circle—At the gates four towers of Brick. Beyond the half moone are two straite buildings in wch are gates, at the Ends two such brick towers, soe you Enter through those four towers. The guard Court on the Left goes to ye old Buildings. On the Right you enter a long paved Entry; on one side are Lodgings, at the End are Cloysters round a Court which has a Large ffountaine in Grass, and at Each Corner a painted post for balls or Statues. The grass is planted round with Lawrell and yew, ffilleroy and Cyprus, cut a round head, and a Piramid. The Cloysters Lead to the royal Staircase which is very Lofty and spacious wth arches for seates, the steps jron railes Carv’d and gilt, the wall black and gold painted wth armory like a wanscoate. Over that is Curious paintings, the twelve Cæsars, over that the banquet of the Gods, all at Length, with Ceres over ye side board wth plenty. The rooffe is angells and Cherubims, the ffront on the halfe pace is Julian and the spectre that appear’d to him, in a tent of green, the Curtain drawn soe bold as if real wth gold ffringe. Here you Enter ye guard Chamber adorn’d with pikes, Halberts, Biounetts Daggers and Pistolls and gunns, wth Bandeleers or pouches for amunition, all set in workes and ffigures about the Wanscoate, over ye Chimney Pistolls and Daggers sett like the starre in the garter. Thence you go into an anty room hung wth tapestry, thence into ye Common audience roome where was a throne and Cannopy, crimson Damaske with Gold ffringe; the form the same round the roome. Here was King Charles ye firsts Picture on horseback over the mantlepiece. All the rooffes of the roomes are Curiosly painted wth different storyes. Out of this you Enter the Grand state roome which has King Williams Picture at Length on the Mantlepiece, ffine Pictures over all doores and Carvings in wood. The throne and Cannopy here was Scarlet velvet with Rich Gold orrice and window Curtains. Thence into the dineing roome where hangs in ye middle a Chrystall Branch for Candles. Its hung with tapistry, I think its here the Queen of Bohemias Picture is over the Chimney piece—Sophia’s mother. The window Curtaines flower’d Crimson Damaske wth gold ffringe; thence the drawing roome wch has a Silver branch in the middle, and sconces and Queen Marys Picture—here is Crimson velvet. Out of this is the presence Chamber wth a Low screen across the roome to keep company off the bed wch is scarlet velvet wth gold orrice and hung wth fine tapistry. Out of ye bedchamber goes the dressing roome hung wth yellow damaske and Chaires the same. Here was the queen mother Dutchess of Yorks Picture over the Chimney, here is a doore into the private Lodgings where there is 2 bed Chambers, one Jndian Embroydery the other a mixt damaske; and Closets and antyroomes to the galleryes and backstaires.
Out of the dressing roome is the Queens Closet, the hangings, Chaires, Stooles and Screen the same, all of satten stitch done in worsteads, beasts, birds, jmages and ffruites all wrought very ffinely by Queen Mary and her maids of honour.
From thence into a Large Long gallery Wanscoated, and pictures of all the Roman warrs on one side, the other side was Large Lofty windows, two marble tables in two peers wth two great open jarrs on Each side, Each table two such; at the End the same for to put potts of orange and mirtle trees in. The window Curtaines and couches or fformes all green and white rich damaske.
Out of this into a Long gallery, plain wanscoate without any adornment, which is for people to waite in, Either of the servants of the houshold or who waites in buissness of the ordinary sort, and here are doores that Lead to the back staires and to private Lodgings. This Leads at the End into the part was design’d for the Kings side, into a noble Gallery wth Curious Pictures of ye scriptures painted by the Carthusion.
The King of Ffrance offer’d 3000 pound apiece for them, or indeed any money. Here are green and white Damaske window Curtaines and Couches as the other was. This Leads to roomes not ffinished in the same number as on the queen’s side—one is begun to be painted on the top. The sides of the walls are painted just Like pieces of tapestry here is Prince Georges picture at Length, wth his Dukall Corronet, and an Anchor as High Admirall, and thus to the other roomes, to ye guardroome and Royal Staircase as on the Queens side, but none here ffinish’d. The Leads gives a vast sight all about of the parke and gardens, the ffront of the house to the garden has four Large stone ffigures Hercules, jupiter, Mars, Neptune.
There is a long Cannall runs from the ffront a great way, and a Large ffounttaine next the house in the first garden, wth a broad Gravell and a Cross. till I came almost to Windsor—I drove by some of the fforest and the parke and came in another way into town by ye Castle across K: Charles’s Walk. jn the Castle yard is a Little box the queen has bought of Lord Godolphin. The garden joyns to the Duke of St Albans for a little retreate out of ye Palace. You Enter a Brick Court, on the Left is a Little Guard roome, on ye Right a Row of roomes wth Chambers over them for the Kitchen and Pastry and Butteryes, and a Little garden pailed in. Then you go on, and on the Left hand Enter the house into an Entry: on the Left is a little parlour for ye Ladies of honour to dine in, beyond that Back Staires Pantry and a Cistern or Place to Wash things in; by that is the guard roome, under it the Cellars.
On the Right hand is a Large Antyroome for persons to wait, where are Marble tables in ye Peeres between the windows; white damaske window curtaines and cane chaires. Next it is the Dineing roome some stepps down, where was red silk Curtaines Chaires and stooles, and Benches round the roome all red silk, wth same coulld orrice Lace; here was a white marble table behind the doore as a sideboard, and a Clap table under ye Large Looking Glass between the windows. Next this was a drawing roome; both these roomes were hung wth small Jmage tapistry very Lively and ffresh, here was Crimson Damaske window Curtaines, Chaires and stooles. The next was what was Prince George’s dressing roome, hung, and window Curtaines Chaires and stooles, all wth yellow damaske, wth marble Chimney pieces as all ye Roomes have of Differing Coullrs black white, grey, rance &c &c. Large Looking-glasses; all the roomes in all ye house is plaine unvarnished oake Wanscoate which Lookes very neate. Wthin the dressing roome is a Closet on one hand, the other side is a Closet yt Leads to a little place wth a seate of Easement of Marble wth sluces of water to wash all down. There is a back doore in ye dressing roome, to a little anty roome with presses, a little Wanscoate table for tea, cards or writeing, so to a back staires;—the Queen’s appartment is over it. From ye Greate Staire at the Entrance of the house Lands you in a passage that Enters—the anty roome is Crimson damaske curtains. Great chaire and Stooles and Benches; the same next it. The presence roome here is ffigured Crimson Velvet window Curtaines, Chaires and stooles; here is the Q. A Wife to K. James the First at Length in her Rideing habit, by her horse and three or four Couple of hounds—these were hung wth ffine tapistry as the two below.
Next this was the Queen’s bedChamber, hung, the bed, window-curtaines the same, all Rich Crimson Damaske. Here was the screen round the bed as the manner is to all the Souveraignes beds. Over the Chimney was Prince George’s Picture and by the side of the bed was the Duke of Glocester’s in an oval. Thence into a Dressing-roome hung with Divers Coulld flowered sattin, chaires and stooles the same, ffine fflower’d muslin window curtaines, A fine Little high screen burnt jappan of 4 Leaves, another Chimney screen wth 4 Leaves of the stone work in ffigures—jndian. Out of this was ye Queens Closet just over Prince Georges but yt was Locked. The other side was a little waiting roome to Just such marble seates of Easemt wth the sluces of water as that below was in the Queens bedChamber. Overright ye Entrance of the dressing-roome was another Little Closet with the tea Equipage, and under that was such a Little tea roome within ye drawingroome. Here in the dressing roome was a backway to a little waiting passage, with presses and such little wanscoate tables; this Leads to the back staires where there is one bedchamber. The Queen’s appartment ffronts the garden; out of the drawing roome you come on a terrass of Gravell, then descend stepps down a green banck to a large green space that has 4 bench seates painted white; behind them is a Green bank, and a Large space of green on Either end fill’d with trees, Lawrell ffrilleroy, Cyprus, yews, heads a Pirramids, and Mirtles. This is ffenced with jron palasadoes painted, to another garden cut in squares and figures, with all sorts of fflowers and greens, which has at ye End a Cut hedge and Leads on to a sort of orchard with dwarfe trees. These gardens and orchards is in Gravel Walks and Long green walks, in variety as such a thing in miniature can admitt.
I drove through another part of Windsor to see a Race run by two ffootemen—an English and Scotch—the fformer a taller Bigger man than the other. The ground Measur’d and Cut even in a round ring, was almost four mile; they were to run it round so often as to make up 22 mile, which was the distance between Chareing Cross and Windsor Cross—that was five times quite round and so farre as made up the odd miles and Measure. They ran a round in 25 minutes. I saw them run the first three rounds and halfe another, in an hour and seventeen minutes, and they ffinished it in two hours and a halfe. The English gain’d the second round the start, and kept it at the same distance ye five rounds, and then the Scotchman came up to him and got before him to the post. The Englishman fell down within a few yards of the post. Many hundred pounds were won and lost about it, they ran both very neately, but my judgment Gave it ye Scotchman because he seem’d to save himself to ye Last Push.
I drove home by a fine house of Lord Rawnelaughs, 14 windows in the ffront, a square building—much gardening and Curious they say, but that Ladyes Pride is, none must see them, and soe Drove a fine Gravell road cut with rows of trees. In a mile you come to a broad open way to Windsor on the Left hand, on the Right to a little house of ye Duchess of Marlboroughs, which is very exact gardens and ffountaines, Cut hedges and Groves, pail’d in; ffrom this house is the ffine Gravell walke continued very broad between high rows of trees—on one hand a ffine Grove of straite trees.