severall Journeys into severall parts of England with many Remarkes; some wth my mother from Newtontony Wiltshire which is all on the downs a fine Champion Country pleasant for all sports, Rideing, Hunting, Courseing, Setting and shooteing. From Newtontony I went to Sarum 8 miles which is a Citty and Bishop’s Seat, pretty Large town Streetes broad but through ye midst of them runs a little rivulet of water which makes ye Streetes not so clean or so easye to pass in, they have stepps to Cross it and many open places for horses and Carriages to Cross itt—itt takes off Much from the beauty of ye streetes—the Cause of it was from the burning of the old town called Salsebury which was on a hill about a mile off this and it was so drye and farre from springs that it was destroyed by fire and only the ruines of the Castle is to be seen like a high wall with fortifications: this town now Stands low by the water by a great River, the houses are old Mostly timber Buildings, there is a large Market House with the town hall over it and a prison Just by—there is also a large Cross in another place and house over it for a Constant Market for fruite, fowle, Butter and Cheese and a fish Market; the town is well served with all provissions; there is good buildings in that part they call the Close, both New built and ye old good houses belonging to the doctors of the Church. Ye Dean has a very good house and Gardens, so is the Bishop’s Palace at ye end of a Row of trees—the roomes are lofty and Stately: all these houses are round ye Cathedrall which is esteemed the finest in England in all respects, it only lyes low in a watry meadow so yt the foundations is in the water, made of ffaggots and timber, yet notwithstanding its want of a Riseing ground to stand on ye steeple is seen many miles off, the spire being so high it appeares to us below as sharpe as a Dagger, Yet is in the Compass on the top as bigg as a Cart wheele; its all stone and Carved finely with spires and Arches, there are severall doores into ye Church, in the body of it stands the pulpet and seates on each side; there are two large Isle’s runnes up on either side; the font stands below opposite to the quire yt enters wth 2 or 3 steps assent from a large Cross Isle that leades to the Cloysters, in which is ye Chapter house which is very large and supported only by one small stone Pillar in ye middle, painted round the walls with figures Carved ye whole accō: of the book of Genesis, the Windows are painted very finely—Much of the History of the Bible. There is as many little Chappels in the Church as months in a yeare, as many doores as weekes, as many Marble pillars as dayes, as many windows as houres, as many partitions in the windows as minutes in the year. The roofe of the Church is very lofty and exactly neate in all things though not so large as some other Cathedralls—the top of the Qoire is exactly painted and it lookes as fresh as if but new done though of 300 yeares standing—there is a very good organ and a deske for the reader raised so high even with the organ for ye advantage of the voice to be heard, yet ye Church is so lofty yt ye Eccos drowns ye Intelligableness of the voice. The Comunion table, hangings and ye booses are all of crimson velvet with gold fringe, 2 large Candlestickes gilt wth great white tapers in them, a large gilt bason to receive ye offerings in—there is many good monuments there, also there are ye Statues of the 3 bishops that built the Church cut in stone—there are two large fine monuments above ye Rest—one all free stone for the lord George, his Effiges and ladyes att length on a bed in their Robes and ruffs on pillows, and ye four pillars are twisted, and over it Angels, figures of birds, beasts, flowers and leaves very fine, there sits Justice wth ye ballance in her hand, one scale laying over ye other twisted lookes very natural and well, with ye wreathed work all in free stone with their Armes cut about in Escutheons all about it; the other is a monument for the Duke of Summerset all in marble, a large bed his Effigee in garment and ruff all in Coullours, his lady the same only she is laid one step above him because she was Daughter to the Dowager of ffrance and sister to Henry ye 7th of England by her second husband Charles brandon Duke of Suffolk.
There is ye Effiges of their 2 sonnes, Lord Beachom at their head and Lord Seymour at ye feete in Armour on their Knees, and severall Daughters on their knees at ye bottom and 12 pillars of Irish gray marble. The Armes is cutt finely in Escutcheons &c. and in figures with ye supporters and severall sorts of beasts carved in a piramide fashion, and on ye top the Duke’s Corronet—these 2 monumts are railed in with Iron grates, there is the Effigee in stone off a doctor that starved himself to death attempting to imitate our Saviour to fast 40 dayes—but at 31 dayes end he became sensible of his evil and would have retrieved his life by eateing againe, but then by ye Just judgment of god could not swallow any thing down his throate;—there is a chaple or burying place of Judge poppums that had two very wild sonnes and by 2 pictures of his sonnes, pictured one with death ye other with a skeleton and set in ye room they were to come into by their father’s order, it pleased God to bless as a meanes to reclaim them. Ye pictures are still there; the windows of the Church but especially ye Quire are very finely painted and large of ye history of ye bible—the tower ffor ye bells are in ye yard at some distance from the Church—there are 6 Churches in the town and subburbs and ye County Goal at ye end of the town called ffisherton, just by the great river that runnes to Christ-Church in Salsebury. They keep the quarter session once in ye yeare the othr tymes are kept at Malbrough about 24 mile off and at ye Devises about ye same distance wch is a very neate little town with a very good market house and town hall sett on stone pillars; it is a bourrough and a very rich tradeing place ffor the Clothing trade, the fourth place ye session is kept is Warminster about ye same distance—its a pretty little town a good Market for corn and there is the Mindiffe Coale which is allmost as good as the sea Coale from New-Castle that is dugg out of the hills all about;—But ye Assizes is allwayes kept at Salsebury and is a Major town though Wilton about 2 mile off is ye County town and ye Knights of ye shire are chosen there, though its now but as a little village as it were, and only supported by the Earle of Pembrooke which lives there and has a very ffine house with large Courts one within another. At ye Entrance there is a lofty Hall with good Pictures, 3 or 4 dineing roomes and drawing roomes of State with very good bed Chambers and well furnished velvet damaske and tissue, one Gallery and ye dineing roome was all wanscoated with pictures of ye family—there is a drawing roome and Anti roome, ye wanscoate is painted with ye whole History of the Acadia romance made by Sr Philip Sidney, brother to the then Countess of Pembrooke and Composed by him in ye ffine woods above ye house.
Another room is painted wth all sorts of sports, Hunting, Hawking &c.—they are all finely painted on the Ceiling and very lofty. there is one dineing roome yt the Chimney is just under a window and the Tunnells runnes upon each side. there is one Chamber, the chimney stands Just by the window opposite to Salsebury, and on the black Marble Chimney piece soe finely polished you may see all the Cathedrall as in a Glass; I have seen it plaine. There are very fine Marble Chimney pieces in most of ye roomes, and marble windows. The Gardens are very fine with many gravel walkes with grass squaires set with fine brass and stone statues—fish ponds and basons with ffigures in ye middle spouting out water—dwarfe trees of all sorts and a fine flower garden—much wall fruite. Ye river runns through ye garden that easeily conveys by pipes water to all Parts.
A Grottoe is att ye end of the garden just ye middle off ye house—its garnished with many fine ffigures of ye Goddesses, and about 2 yards off the doore is severall pipes in a line that with a sluce spoutts water up to wett the strangers—in the middle roome is a round table and a large Pipe in the midst, on which they put a Crown or Gun or a branch, and so yt spouts the water through ye Carvings and poynts all round ye roome at ye Artists pleasure to wet ye Company—there are figures at Each corner of ye roome that Can weep water on the beholders and by a straight pipe on ye table they force up ye water into ye hollow carving of ye rooff like a Crown or Coronet to appearance but is hollow within to retaine ye water fforced into it in great quantetyes yt disperses in ye hollow Cavity over ye roome and descends in a Shower of raine all about ye roome—on each side is two little roomes which by the turning their wires ye water runnes in ye rockes—you see and hear it and also it is so contrived in one room yt it makes ye melody of Nightingerlls and all sorts of birds wch engages ye Curiosity of ye Strangers to go in to see, but at ye Entrance off each room is a line of pipes that appear not till by a Sluce moved—it washes ye spectators designed for diversion.
Ye Grottoe is leaded on ye top where are fish ponds, and just without ye grottoe is a wooden bridge over ye river. Ye barristers are set out wth Lyons set thick on Either Side wth their mouths open, and by a sluce spout out water each to other in a perfect arch ye length of ye bridge. There are fine woods beyond ye house and a large parke walled in. From thence I went to Blandford in Dorsetshire 18 miles through a haire waring and a forest of ye Kings.
Blandford is a pretty neate Country town. Thence to Merly by Wimborn over a great river Called the Stoure and a large Arched bridge to a Relations house, Sr William Constantines house—thence to Poole a little seaport town 4 miles off where was a very good Minister in ye publick Church—Mr Hardy.
From thence we went by boate to a little Isle Called brownsea 3 or 4 leagues off where there is much Copperice made, the stones being found about ye Isle in ye shore in great quantetyes. there is only one house there wch is the Governours, besides little fishermen’s houses; they being all taken up about ye Copperice workes; they gather ye Stones and place them on ground raised like ye beds in gardens, rows one above the other and are all Shelving, so yt ye raine disolves ye Stones and it draines down into trenches and pipes made to receive and Convey it to ye house, ych is fitted with Iron panns four square and of a pretty depth at least 12 yards over. They place Iron spikes in ye panns full of branches and so as ye Liquor boyles to a candy it hangs on those branches; I saw some taken up—it look’d like a vast bunch of grapes. Ye Coullour of ye Copperace not being much differing it lookes cleare like Suger-Candy—so when ye water is boyled to a Candy they take it out and replenish the panns with more liquor. I do not remember they added anything to it only ye Stones of Copperice disolved by ye raine into liquor as I mention’d at first—there are great furnaces under, yt Keepes all the panns boyling—it was a large room or building with Severall of these large panns: they do add old Iron and nailes to ye Copperass Stones. This is a noted place for lobsters and Crabs and shrimps. I there eate some very good. From Merly we went to ye Isle of Purbeck. At Warrum we passed over a bridge where ye sea flowed in, and Came by ye ruines of Corffe Castle which stands on a hill, yet surrounded by much higher hills yt might easily command it, and so in ye Civil warrs was batter’d down with Granadeers—thence you rise a great ascent of hills, called the Linch or rather ye ridge, being so for 3 or 4 miles, rideing to Quare, which was 16 miles ffrom Merly to a relations house—Cos’n Colliers.
From this ridge you see all ye Island over, which lookes very fruitfull, good lands, Meadows, woods and jnclosures—there are many quarys in these hills of yt wch is called the free stone from hence they digg it—the shores are very Rocky all about ye Island. We went 3 miles off to Sonidge a sea faire place not very big—there is a flatt sand by ye sea a little way: they take up stones by ye shores yt are so oyly, as ye poor burn it for ffire, and its so light a ffire it Serves for Candle too, but it has a strong offensive smell. At a place 4 mile off called Sea Cume the Rockes are so Craggy and ye Creekes of land so many yt ye sea is very turbulent—I pick’d shells and it being a spring tide I saw ye sea beat upon ye Rockes at least 20 yards with Such a ffoame or ffroth—and at another place the rockes had so large a Cavity and Hollow yt when ye Sea flowed in, it runne almost round and Sounded like some hall or high arch. In this Island are severall pretty good houses though not very large. Att Kingston, Sr William Muese has a pretty house, and att Income Mr Coliffords—Doonshay, Mr Dollings and 7 mile off Quare. Att Finnum, lady Larences, there is a pretty large house but very old timber built: there I eate ye best Lobsters and Crabs, being boyled in ye Sea water and scarce Cold—very large and Sweet. Most of the houses in ye Island are built of stone—this is Just by the great Cliffts wch are a vast height from ye sea—here is plenty of provision of all sorts especially of fish. ffrom Finnum we ascend a high hill of a great length till you are out of ye Island which does hardly appeare to be now an Isle, the tide having left it on this side that you passe only a little Brooke. There is another Castle called Brindon, but yt lyes low and appears not much—thence we came to Piddle 6 or 7 miles off where was a relation—Mr Oxenbridg; an old house wch formerly was an abby—thence to Dorchester town 5 miles—it stands on ye side of a Hill the river runnes below it—the town lookes Compact and the streetes are very neately pitch’d and of a good breadth—The Market-place is spaceious—The Church very handsome and full of galleries.
Thence we went to Burport about 8 miles—The wayes are stony and very narrow—the town has a steep hill to descend through the whole place—thence to Woolfe 4 miles to a relation—Mr Newbery a man of many whymseys—would keep no women servants—had all washing, Ironing dairy and all performed by men—his house look’s like a little village when you Come into ye Yard—so many little buildings apart from each other—one for a stillitory—another for out houses and offices, another long building for Silk wormes, and ye dwelling house is but mean and spoyl’d by his ffancy of makeing a hall up 3 storyes high and so lofty nothing suiteable to it. He had good gardens and orchards much good ffruite, but all in a most rude Confused manner. Thence we went to Colway neare Lime in Somersetshire about 8 miles to a relations house Mr Hendly’s—from thence it is 2 miles to Lime a seaport place open to the main ocean, and so high and bleake Sea, that to secure the Harbour for shipps they have been at a great Charge to build a Mold from the town with stone like a halfe Moon, wch they call the Cobb; its raised with a high wall and this runns into ye Sea a good Compass that ye Shipps rides safely within it, when the tide is out we may see the foundations of some part of it—that is the tyme they looke over it to see any breach and repaire it immediately, else ye tide come with so much violence would soone beate it down—there is some part of it low and only is to joyne ye rest to the land, and at high water is all Cover’d of such a depth of water that shipps may pass over it to enter the Cobb or halfe moone, which is difficult for fforeigners to attempt, being ignorant, though its better than goeing round the other way for those that know and do observe the tide—the spring tides and any Storme does some tymes beate up and wash over the walls of the forte or castle into the Court and so runns into the town, though at other tymes when its’ the ordinary tide and calme sea it is at least 300 yards from the banke on which the high wall is built—In most parts of somersetshire it is very fruitfull for Orchards, plenty of apples and peares, but they are not Curious in the Planting the best sort of fruite which is a great pitty, being so soone produced and such quantetyes, they are likewise as Careless when they make Cider—they press all sorts of Apples together, else they might have as good sider as in any other parts, even as good as the Herrifordshire—they make great quantetyes of Cider, their presses are very large, so as I have seen a Cheese as they call them which yeilded 2 hoddsheads—they pound their apples, then lay fresh straw on the press, and on that a good lay off Pulp of the apples, then turne in the ends of the straw over it all round and lay fresh straw, then more apples up to the top. Just by Lime you Cross a little brooke into Devonshire which is much like Somersetshire—fruitfull Country’s for Corn, graseing, much for inclosures that makes the wayes very narrow, so as in some places a Coach and Waggons Cannot pass—they are forced to Carry their Corn and Carriages on horses’ backes with frames of wood like pannyers on either side ye horse, so load it high and tye it wth Cords—this they do altogether the farther Westward they goe for ye wayes grow narrower and narrower on to ye lands end. They shewed me the Lizard point from Lime, it was a good distance—Ye land grows narrower in a compass round, as it were round the sea. From lime the wayes are also difficult by reason of the very steep hill up and down, and that so successively as little or no plaine even ground, and full of large smooth pebbles that make the strange horses slip and uneasye to go—the horses of the Country are accustomed to it and travell well in the rodes—in ye opener wayes they use a sort of waine or carriage made narrower than our Southern Waggon, but longer and so load them high—from Lime to Burport is 12 miles and so to Dorchester; thence to Blandford we pass over Woodbery hill eminent for a great Faire that is kept there of all things: the road passed by Cherbery—the foot of the hill on the Slope stands a pretty Seate of Mr Earles my relation—the house is new built on ye brow of ye hill whence you have large prospects of 20 mile round—you may see Shaftesbury thence 16 mile off—there is a good wood behind the house, good gardens wall’d with plenty of fruit, good fish and decoy pounds. There is a very good Hall at the entrance leads you to a large parlour and drawing room on ye right hand that opens to the gardens—a very good little parlour on the left with servants room, and another parlour for smoakeing, all well wanscoated and painted and the offices convenient—the Chambers are good and lofty and sizeable—good ffurniture in the best 2 Chambers, in an angle the staires leads up halfe way into ye middle of the house and so divides in four parts and runnes to each angle.
Thence 6 miles to Blandford, thence 18 to Salsebury and 8 mile to Newtontony which stands in ye midst of ye downs 8 mile from Andover a market town in Hampshire and ye roade to London. It lyes 15 mile from Winchester—it is three mile from Amesbury and 2 mile more to Stoneage that stands on Salsebury plaine—eminent for many battles being faught there—this Stoneage is reckon’d one of the wonders of England how such prodigeous stone should be brought there, as no such Stone is seen in ye Country nearer than 20 mile. They are placed on the side of a hill in a rude jregullar form—two stones stands up and one laid on their tops with morteses into each other and thus are severall in a round like a wall with spaces between, but some are fallen down, so spoyle the order or breach in the temple, as some think it was in the heathen tymes; others thinke it the Trophy of some victory wone by one Ambrosious, and thence the town by it has its name of Amesbury. There is severall rows of lesser stones within the others set up in the same forme of 2 upright and one lies on the top like a gateway. How they were brought thither or whether they are a made stone is not resolved—they are very hard yet I have seen some of them scraped—the weather seemes not to penetrate them. To increase the wonder of the story is that none Can Count them twice alike—they stand confused and some single stones at a distance but I have told them often, and bring their number to 91. This Country is most Champion and open, pleasant for recreations—its husbandry is mostly Corn and sheep, the Downs though short grass ye feed is sweet, producing the finest wooll and sweet meat though but small.
The little towns or villages lies in the valleys and runs along in the bottom and are called Bourns having water running in most of them. From Stonidge I went to Evell in Somersetshire, thence to Meer a little town about 15 mile; by the town is a vast high hill called the Castle of Meer—its now all grass over and so steepe up that the ascent is by footsteps cut in the side of the hill. I was on the top where some had been digging and was come to a space that was Arched and the walls plaistred and washed white and smooth—it was but a little roome, I tooke a piece of its walls and plaister. That shews there may be Cells or vaults in the hill—from thence to Wincauton 7 miles which is on a steep hill and very stoney—you go through the town all the way down as it were a steep precipice, all Rocks—thence to Castle Cary 3 or 4 miles—its generally a good fruitfull Country, much on jnclosures as is most of Summersetshire.
Thence to Alford 2 miles where was a minerall water which Company resorts to for drinking—formerly it has been more frequented than of late—many now send for them severall miles and have Beer brewed of them—there being no good accomodation for people of fashion, the Country people being a Clownish rude people. Ye waters are mostly from Alom—its a Cleare little well and a quick spring—the bottom of the well has a sort of Blewish Clay or Marle, its a quick purger, good for all sharpe Humers or Obstruction. In three mile of this place is Queen Camell famous for a fine ring of bells and for the fine sort of brown thread called Nuns thread—as we returned from thence we came by Bruton a very neate stone built town—from it we ascend a very high steep hill all in a narrow Lane cut out of the rocks on which grow trees thick, their Roots runns amongst the rocks, and in many places fine Clean springs buble out, and run a long out of the rocks, it smells Just like the sea. we were full an hour passing that hill though with four horses and a Chariot. My sister self and Maid: thence to Willding which is a place of much water, so to Newtontony in all 30 miles.
Another Journey to the Bath, from Newtontony to Warminster 18 miles a good road town and good way; thence to Breackly 5 mile a Deep Clay way, we passed over one Common of some miles Length on a narrow Causy that a Coach can scarce pass, all pitched with slatts and stones—our Coach was once wedged in ye wheele in the stones that severall men were forced to lift us out; its made only for Packhorses which is the way of Carriage in those parts. Ye Common is so Moorish their feete and wheeles would sinke in, so no going there—thence to Philip Norton 3 miles a very neate stone built village. Thence you pass a good way between 2 stone walls to the bath, 5 mile down a very steep hill and stony, a mile from the town scarce any passing and there descends a little Current of water continually from the rocks. The wayes to the bath are all difficult, the town lyes Low in a bottom and its steep ascents all wayes out of the town. The houses are indifferent, the streetes of a good size well pitched. There are severall good houses built for Lodgings that are new and adorned, and good furniture, the baths in my opinion makes the town unpleasant, the aire so low, encompassed with high hills and woods. There is 5 baths the hot bath the most hot springs—its but small and built all round, which makes it ye hotter—out of it runns the water into a bath called the Le pours.
The third bath is called the Cross bath wch is some thing bigger then the former and not so hot; the Cross in the middle has seates round it for ye Gentlemen to sitt, and round the walls are Arches wth seates for the Ladyes, all stone and the seate is stone and if you thinke the seate is too Low they raise it with a Coushon as they call it, another Stone, but indeed the water bears you up that ye seate seemes as easy as a down Coushon. Before the Arch the Ladyes use to have a laced toilet hung up on the top of the Arch and so to shelter their heads even to the water if they please. You Generally sit up to the Neck in water, this Cross bath is much the Coolest and is used mostly in ye heate of summer; there are Gallery’s round ye top that ye Company that does not Bathe that day walkes in and lookes over into ye bath on their acquaintance and company—there are such a number of Guides to each bath of women to waite on ye ladyes, and of men to waite on the Gentlemen, and they keepe their due distance. There is a serjeant belonging to ye baths that all the bathing tyme walkes in galleryes and takes notice order is observed and punishes ye rude, and most people of fashion sends to him when they begin to bathe, then he takes particular Care of them and Complements you every morning wch deserves its reward at ye end of the Season. When you would walk about ye bath I use to have a woman guide or two to Lead me for the water is so strong it will quickly tumble you down, and then you have 2 of the men guides goes at a distance about ye bath to Cleare ye way. At ye sides of the Arches are rings that you may hold by and so walke a little way, but ye springs bubbles up so fast and so strong and are so hot up against ye bottoms of ones feete, Especially in that they Call ye Kitching in the bath, which is a great Cross with seates in ye middle and many hot springs riseth there. The Kings bath is very large, as large as the rest put together, in it is the hot pumpe that persons are pumpt at for Lameness or on their heads for palsyes. I saw one pumpt, they put on a broad brim’d hatt wth the Crown Cut out so as ye brims Cast off ye water from ye face; they are pumpt in ye bath, one of ye men Guides pumps—they have two pence I thinke for 100 pumps. The water is scallding hot out of the pump, the armes or Legs are more easyly pumped. The Ladyes goes into the bath with Garments made of a fine yellow canvas, which is stiff and made large with great sleeves like a parsons gown; the water fills it up so that its borne off that your shape is not seen, it does not cling close as other linning, which Lookes sadly in the poorer sort that go in their own linning. The Gentlemen have drawers and wastcoates of the same sort of canvas, this is the best linning, for the bath water will Change any other yellow. When you go out of the bath you go within a doore that leads to Steps which you ascend by degrees that are in the water, then the doore is shut which shutts down into the water a good way, so you are in a private place where you still ascend severall more steps and let your Canvass drop of by degrees into the water, which your women guides take off, and the meane tyme your maides flings a garment of flannell made like a Nightgown wth great sleeves over your head, and ye guides take ye taile and so pulls it on you Just as you rise ye steps, and ye other garment drops off so you are wrapped up in ye flannell and your nightgown on ye top, and your slippers and so you are set in Chaire which is brought into ye roome wch are called slips, and there are Chimney’s in them, you may have fires. These are in severall parts of the sides of ye bath for ye Conveniency of persons going in and out of ye bath decently, and at ye top of ye staires stands a woman yt Layes a woollen Cloth for you to set your bare foot, and also to give you attendance. Ye Chaires you go in are a low seate and wth frames round and over yr head and all cover’d inside and out wth red bayes and a Curtaine drawn before of ye same wch makes it Close and warme; then a Couple of men wth staves takes and Carryes you to your lodging and sets you at yr bedside where you go to bed and lye and sweate some tyme as you please. Yr own maides and ye maides of the house gets your fire and waites on you till you rise to get out of your sweate. All the baths has the same attendance, the queens bath is bigger then ye other three but not and neare so big as ye Kings, which do run into each other and is only parted by a wall and at one place a great arch where they run into each other. Ye queens bath is a degree hotter than ye Cross bath and ye Kings bath much hotter, these have all gallery’s round and the pump is in one of these galleryes at ye Kings bath which ye Company drinks of, its very hot and tastes like ye water yt boyles Eggs, has such a smell, but ye nearer ye pumpe you drinke it, ye hotter and less offencive and more spiriteous. The baths are all Emptyed as soone as the Company goes out, which is about 10 or 11 of ye Clock in the morning; then by sluces they empty at once ye bath so it fills againe. I have seen all ye springs bubble up as thicke out of ye ground when the baths have been empty. Ye bottom is gravell. So they will be full for ye evening if Company would go in againe, if so they empty them againe at Night and they are filled against ye morning and there will be such a white scum on the bath wch ye guides goes and scimms off Cleane before any Company goes in; if they go in while this scum is on it gives them the bath mantle as they call it, makes them breake out into heate and pimples; ye like will be on them if they go into ye bath before they have purged, especially in ye hotter bath. Ye places for divertion about ye bath is either ye walkes in that they call ye Kings Mead which is a pleasant green meaddow, where are walkes round and Cross it, no place for Coaches, and indeed there is little use of a Coach only to bring and Carry ye Company from ye bath for ye wayes are not proper for Coaches.
Ye town and all its accomodations is adapted to ye batheing and drinking of the waters and to nothing else, the streetes are well pitched and Cleane kept and there are Chaires as in London to Carry ye better sort of people in visits, or if sick or infirme and is only in the town, for its so Encompassed with high hills few care to take the aire on them. There is also pleasant walkes in ye Cathedrall in the Cloysters and yt leades to ye discription of the Coronation in this place at ye bath ye 23d April wch I recieved ye relation off from a spectatrix it being ye day queen ann was Crowned, and is never performed unless when a queen is the Chiefe as Queen Elizabeth &c., her Sister our late Majesty’s King William and Queen Mary because the queen was Joyn’d in the throne as principle, they representing ye Amazons consisting of the young Maids. The Companyes of the town being assembled at Mr Mayors house begin to proceed with their officers masters and wardens and each Company with their flag—After marched in a troupe ye Maides of the suburbs each with their proper officers of themselves, as Captn Ensigne and lieutenant wth plummes of feathers. Just before ye captn went her guard which was 6 young men drest in their holland shirts, with garters, and Ribons in their hatts, and their swords drawn in their hands, then the captn in her short wastecoate with gold lace, and their peticoates silke yt were with furbellows ode above another with Ribons, wth a trunchant in their hand wth an inscription, God save queen Ann. Just behinde their Captaines went two Maides with two scepters gilt, next them two more yt bore the crown between them wch was gilt, also their Ensigne. Their flag wch holds the same inscription God save queen Ann was guarded by two young Men drest as ye others in their holland shirts: then the troupe followed in order in same dress as their officers with Crowns on their heads of Guilded Lauwrell, in Number about 100; next came ye Citty Maides wth their Majoress Generall with their plummes of feather with a wreath of Gilded Lawrell like a Crown, and on ye top wth all sorts of pretious stones ye Jewellers shops Could supply them wth and were guarded wth young men as ye others; behind ye Majoress followed six all in white with a green Cross swathe with this inscription in white God save queen Ann each with their Trunchant in their hands as ye former, and two carrying 2 scepters gilt, and after them two more ye Crown between them, wch was very rich in pearles; then two more carryed ye queens Armes between them, their dress was just as ye first were only much richer and finer and all of them gather’d up ye upper peticoate in little scallops just to shew their under peticoates wch were white. Ye troupe of ye amazans in order wth their bows and arrows wth Crowns of Gilded Lawrel, their officers had plumes of feathers and their Serjeants with their halberts, their number was also about 100.
Next after followed all ye young men of ye town form’d into a Company of Granadeers wth their proper officers wch had laced hatts and plumes of feathers; each soldier had a red cap wth Cyphers and a Crown gilt wth gold and furbelowed with blew round their head; their hair was tyed back with scarlet ribon, they had scarlet garters and scarlet slings for their gunns; drest all in their holland shirts and white stockings and had a hanger by their sides. their number was about 30. Next followed four couple of Maurice dancers with their pranceing horses, in holland shirts with laced hatt riboned, and Cross swashes and garters wth bells, wth their two antiques drest in their formalityes, wth hankershiefs in their hands danceing all ye way.
Next walked ye Clergy, then next followed Mr Major with two pages attending him, followed by the Corporation aldermen all in their scarlet gowns, and the common Councill in their gowns. Next followed in ye reare all ye marryed men formed into a Company of Artilery, their hatts Laced, with plumes of feathers all in their own Cloths:
Ye Soldiers ye Same wth Swords and gunns wth two Blunderbusses; every Company both of men and women was attended by drums and all sort of musick both wind and stringed instruments.
Thus they repaired to ye Cathedrall, Ye granadeers salutes them Just as they enter the Abby with a volly of shott, and there they have a sermon and as they come out of the Cathedrall ye Company of artillery salutes them againe with another volly, so in the same order they return to their Guild Hall where is a sumptuous feast wth Musick and danceing wch Ends ye solemnity wth bonfires as is usual.
I now proceed to describe the rest of the town. there are green walkes very pleasant and in many places, and out of the Cathedrall you walk into ye priory which has good walkes of rows of trees, which is pleasant—there are ye deans prebends and doctors houses which stand in yt green which is pleasant, by ye Church called the Abby, wch is lofty and spacious and much Company walke there especially in wet weather. Ye Quire is neat but nothing extraordinary—in that Kings mead there are severall little Cake-houses where you have fruit lulibubs and sumes Liquours to entertaine ye Company that walke there.
The markets are very good here of all sorts of provision flesh and ffish especially when the season for ye Company batheing and drinking lasts, great plenty and pretty reasonable. The Chargeableness of the bath is ye Lodgings and fireing, the ffaggotts being very small, but they give you very good attendance there.
Another Journey I went with my mother into Oxfordshire, by Barkshire to Hungerford 16 mile, which is famous for Crawfish there being a good river and great quantityes of yt fish and large.
This is in Barkshire, thence to Lamborn wch is a woody Country 7 miles, thence to ffarington 7 mile a pretty large place but lyes very watry, and so by Radcote 5 miles, wch is much ye same deep Countryes much on Clay; by ffarington is a fine house of Sr George Pratt’s Called Coalsell. All ye avenues to ye house are fine walkes of rows of trees, ye garden lyes in a great descent below ye house of many steps and terresses and walkes one below another, a green walke with all sorts of Dwarfe trees, fruit trees with standing apricot and flower trees, abundance of garden roome and filled with all sorts of things improved for pleasure and use. The house is new built with stone, most of ye offices are partly under ground—Kitchin, Pantry, buttlery and good Cellers and round a Court is all ye other offices and out houses; this is all even with ye back yards. The Entrance of ye house is an ascent of severall steps into a hall so lofty the rooff is three storyes, reaches to ye floore of ye gallery—all the walls are Cutt in hollows where statues and Heads Carved ffinely are sett, Directly fore-right Enters a large Dineing roome or great parlour, which has a door thourough into the garden yt gives a visto through ye house: within yt is a drawing room, on ye other side another roome of the same size, and backward is a little parlour all with good ffurniture, tapistry, Damaske, &c. There runs up a pr of back Staires at each end of the house quite to ye top to the gallery which does make convenient all ye Chambers. The great Staires goes out of the hall on each side, spacious and handsom staires runs up and meetes on the landing place, wch is a passage that runs on both sides to each end of the house, but is made private by two doores on each side: on the top of the staires you enter in ye midle into a dineing roome, within that a Chamber on each side with two Closets to each bigg Enough for a little bed, with Chimney’s convenient for a servant and for dressing roomes, one of which has a doore also out into that passage and soe to the back staires; this is ye same on ye other end, and also two roomes on ye other side, each end of ye hall which continues to run up even with the second story, which are all good Chambers, and one more here because the great staires goe but to ye first story: they are all well and Genteel’ly furnisht, damaskes Chamlet and wrought beds ffashionably made up. Over this runs a gallery all through the house, and on each side severall garret roomes for servants ffurnished very neate and Genteele, in ye middle are staires yt Lead up to the Cupilow or large Lanthorn in the middle of the leads. Ye house being Leaded all over and the stone Chimney’s in severall rows Comes up in them on each side ye Cupilow, it shewes exact and very uniform, as is ye whole Building. This gives you a great prospect of gardens, grounds and woods that appertaine to ye Seate, as well as a sight of the Country at a distance. There was few pictures in the house only over doores and Chimney’s; the hall was paved with black and whyte marble and had seates round the roome cut in arches on the walls. From thence Oxfordshire we enter over the Vale of the White horse wch takes its name from a Ridge of high hills on which is Cutt out the shape off a horse in perfect proportions in broad wayes, and is seen a great distance very plaine, the hills being on Chalke look’s white and the great valley in the bottom is term’d the Manger; it extends a vast way, a rich jnclosed Country, and we pass through some part of Glocestershire at Norton where is another seat of my Brother Say’s—thence to Broughton by Banbery which is 25 mile.
Broughton is an ancient Seate of ye Lord viscount Say and Seale; its an old house moted round, and a parke and Gardens, but are much left to decay and ruine when my brother Came to it. He has two other houses in two or three Miles, Shettford a little neate house and gardens, and Newton, but that is mostly pulled down. From Broughton I went to see Edgehill where was the ffamous Battle ffought in Cromwell’s tyme—its 10 mile off, the Ridge of hills runns a great length and so high that the land beneath it appeares vastly distant, its a rich ground full of inclosures and lookes finely, tho’ fformidable to look down on it and turnes one’s head round—the wind allwayes blows wth great violence there because of the Steepeness of ye hills. The top is a flatt full of Barrows and hills that are markes of a Camp and battles.
About 2 mile from Broughton is a great old house much like Broughton; its Sr Robert Dashwoods—most of the great houses there about are old built. About three mile off at Adderbery wch is a pretty neate vilage, there are two or three good houses one of Sr Thomas Cobbs and Lady Rochesters looks neate and well with good gardens.
There is about 2 mile off the Lord Guilffords house Roxton which is a good house within a parke. You enter a large hall, on the left hand leads to a little parlour down to ye Kitchins, the halfe pace att the upper end of the hall leads into dineing roome, drawing roome, and a large staire-case with good pictures; there you enter another large dineing roome with great Compass windows and fine Pictures of the family. Within is a drawing roome and Chambers and Closets well proportioned, little or no ffurniture was up, only in ye worst roomes; in one Closet att each doore was Queen Mary and Queen Elizabeth’s pictures to the ffoote in bibb and apron very pretty: in one roome was the Lord North and Ladyes picture, which was Lord Chiefe Justice and their sonnes picture in the middle, all at length,—many good Pictures in most roomes. There was a part new built all the new ffashion way which was designed for the present Lord Gilford and Lady. The Gardens are very good, the outhouses and Stables handsome.
Banbury is a pretty little town, the streets broad and well pitched, the whole Country is very pleasant and the land rich—a red earth. They make some of their fences with stones—dry walls without Morter. It seemes much on a flatt and you have a large prospect, from thence to London we go by Alesbury 20 mile, thence to London 30 mile.
A journey my mother went from Newtontony to Durly in the fforest 15 miles, thence to Nurstead 15 mile to a Relations house, (Aunt Holts,) a neate new built house with brick and stone—a hall, little parlour on ye left side, a back door into a Court built round with all the offices out to ye stables and barnes: on the right side a great parlour and drawing roome yt opened into the garden wch were fine gravel walks, grass plotts and beyond it a garden of flower trees and all sorts of Herbage, store of fruit, and freestone broad walke in ye Middle to ye house. Ye Chambers are very good and Convenient and in ye ffront is a place walled in, beyond is a long ground sett with rows of trees; on ye right side of ye house is a large grove of firrs halfe scotts halfe norroway which lookes very nobly. The roades all about this Country are very stony, narrow and steep hills or else very dirty as in most of Sussex, but good rich land; it is in 2 mile of petersffield in Hampshire wch is a good little neate town. In a mile of it is a Gentlemans house Called Maple Duram which Might now be new named into yew, ffor the great number of yew trees set thick in severall green walkes that grows high and is cutt close to the body up almost to the top, and ye tops are left in a great head that spreads and makes it very shady and pleasant. From thence we went to Guilford wch is a good town built with stone. The streetes are broad—thence to Kingston on the Thames 30 mile thence to London 10 mile, from London againe to Colebrooke 15 miles, thence to Maidenhead 10. You go in sight of Winsor Castle on the left hand and Eaton Colledge as you pass the bridge at Maidenhead, and on ye right hand you see Cliffton house a fine Building of ye Duke of Buckingams. Thence to Redding 5 miles wch is a pretty large place, severall Churches, in one lyes buried one of my sisters that Dyed at my Grandmothers there of the small pox, her monument of white marble stands up in the Chancell. From Redding to the Veale 5 miles, Sad Clay Deep way this is in Barkshire, thence to Newbery 8 mile all Clay Mirey ground.
Newbery is a little town famous for makeing the best whipps—its a good market for Corn and trade. Thence to Newtontony over Way hill famous for a Faire kept there on Michelmas day.
My journey to London after my Mothers death was by Sutton 14 mile thence to Baseing stoke 12 mile, a large town for to Entertaine travellers and commodious, 2 mile beyond we pass by Basen on the left side, a house of the Duke of Boltons wth a large parke and gardens. Ye house is not fine being much demolished and spoyled after the Civil warres, it being a garrison held by ye King. On the right hand at a mile distance you come in sight also of a great building like a little town—the house of Sr Robert Hendlys; so to Hartffordbridge is 8 mile more thats only a place full of jnns for the conveniency of the road. Thence over a heath you go to Bagshott that is 8 mile all on a heavy sand where you come by a parke of ye kings, and in it is a pretty house—thence to Eggum 8 mile very heavy sand, so to Staines where you cross the Thames on a bridge to Midlsex and so to Houndslow 4 mile, to Brandford 4 mile, to Turnumgreen 2, thence to Hammersmith 2 to Kensington 2 and London 2 miles.
Another journey ffrom London to Alsebury 30 mile, from thence to great Horrwood in Buckinghamshire 10 miles, from thence I went to Hillsdon a house of Mr Dentons 7 miles which stands on a Riseing in the middle of a fine Parke and lookes very well; its not large, a good hall wth 2 parlours and has a glide through the house into the gardens wch are neately kept—the grass and Gravel walkes wth dwarfs and flower beds and much fruit; the prospect is fine all over the gardens and parke, and the river and woods beyond them. We went to Thorndon Sr Thomas Tyrrells, a good old house and very good gardens, some walkes like Arbours Close, others shady others open, some gravel, others grass with Cyprus’ trees, a fine river runnes all the back side of the garden, where is very good ffish. The house is low but runnes much on the ground, so there are many roomes wch are lofty but its not built in many storyes. Thence we went 4 mile to Stow Sr Richd Temples new house that stands pretty high. You enter into a hall very lofty with a gallery round the top, thence through to a great parlour that opens in a Bellcony to the garden, and is a visto thro’ the whole house, so that on the one side you view the gardens wch are one below another wth low breast walls and Taress walkes, and is replenished with all ye Curiosityes or Requisites for ornament, pleasure and use, beyond it are orchards and woods with rows of trees; on the other side you see ye parke rowes of trees; the roomes are all lofty and good, the hall is not large but sutable to its height—a great many Chambers and roomes of state. Some the ground floores are inlaid, ffine Pictures and good staircase and gallery wch leads to the Ledds through a large Cupelow wch gives ye prospect of the whole Country. We went to horrwood 7 mile, by severall other seates of Sr Ralph Verny’s who has most exact ffine gardens: within two mile off Horrwood is a well of minerall waters from Iron just like Tunbridg and as good. I dranke them a fortnight—there are severall of the same sort of springs all about that Country. Thence I went to Buckinghamtown 7 mile, a very neate place and we passed the river Ouise over a very high bridge tho’ the river seemed not then so very full, but it swells after great raines which makes them build their arches so large. Thence to Banbury in Oxfordshire 13 miles, thence to morton Hindmost in Glocestershire 14 miles, thence to Hales 8 miles over steep stony hills, a house of Lord Tracy’s where my brother Say lived—a good old house, and there is a pretty Chappel with a Gallery ffor people of quality to sitt in wch goes out of the hall that is a lofty large roome: good parlour and severall good lodging roomes. You ascend into the house by Severall stone stepps. Within 2 mile of this is a better house of ye Lord Tracy with a very good parke which stands so high that by the Lodge I rode up ye banks I could see all the parke about and ye deer feeding and running.
There is a little river and large ponds—it gives you a good sight of the Country about, wch is pretty much inclosed and woods a rich deep Country and so the roads bad. There are severall high hills that I was on that gave a large prospect to ye eye. I saw some of this land improved in the produce of woods wch ye dyers use—its ordered in this manner, all the Summer season if drie for 4 or 5 months they sow it or plant it, but I thinke its sown—then its very Clean wedd when grown up a little out of ye ground, for it rises no higher then Lettice and Much in such tuffts; ye Coullour off ye Leafe is much like Scabins and the shape Resembling that: this they Cutt of Close to ye ground and soe out of ye same roofe Springs the Leafe againe, this they do 4 tymes, then in a Mill wth a horse they Grind the Leaves into a paste, so make it up in balls and drye them in a Penthouse to secure it from raine—only the wind dryes it. This plantation of about 12 acres would Employ 2 or 3 ffamilyes Men, Women and Children, and so they Generally Come and Make little hutts for themselves for ye Season to tend it.
Here I saw flax In the growth. The smell of the Woode is so strong and offencive you can scarce beare it at ye Mill: I could not fforse my horse neare it.
ffrom thence I returned. Backe by a place where is a stone stands to Divide ffour shires—Worcester, Oxford Glocester and Warwickshire—so I ascended there a high hill and travaill’d all on ye top of ye hills a pleasant and a good Roade. I came to Rowle Stone where are many such greate stones as is at Stonidge, one stands uppright, a broad Stone Called the King’s Stone, being the place a Saxon King was secured against his enemies; thence to Broughton in all 26 miles. Thence I went to Astrop where is a Steele water Much ffrequented by ye Gentry, it has some Mixture of Allum so is not so strong as Tunbridge. There is a ffine Gravell Walke that is between 2 high Cutt hedges where is a Roome for the Musick and a Roome for ye Company besides ye Private walkes. The well runnes very quick, they are not Curious in keepeing it, neither is there any bason for the spring to run out off only a dirty well full of Moss’s which is all Changed yellow by the water. There are Lodgings about for ye Company and a little place Called Sutton. this is four mile, thence to Oxfford 14 mile all in a very good Road and an exceeding pleasant Country. You pass by many ffine seates, Park’s, woods, the Land in Most part of this County is Rich Red Mould and deepe so as they are forced to Plough their Ground 2 or 3 tymes for wheate and Cannot use Wheeles to their Ploughs, its rich Land and produces plenty of all things.
Oxford opens to view 2 mile off, its Scituation is ffine on a Round hill Environ’d Round with hills adorn’d with Woods and Enclosures, yet not so neare as to annoy ye town which stands pleasant and Compact. There is a ffine Causy for neare two mile by the Road for the Schollars to walke on, ye Theater stands the highest of all and much in ye middle Encompass’d with ye Severall Colledges and Churches and other Buildings whose towers and Spires appeares very Well at a Distance; the Streetes are very Cleane and well Pitched and pretty broad. The high Streete is a very Noble one, soe Larg and of a Greate Length. In this is ye University Church Called St Maryes, which is very large and Lofty but Nothing very Curious in it. The Theater is a Noble Pile of building, its Paved with Black and White Marble, exceeding Large and Lofty, built Round and Supported by its own architecture all stone, noe pillars to support it; itt has windows all round and full of Gallery’s ffor the Spectators as well as Disputants when ye acts are at Oxford. Over the Rooff of this Large Roome are as Large roomes with Severall Divissions which are Used for the Drying the Printed Sheetes of bookes, and this has Light in Ovalls which is quite Round the Theater and in the Middle is a large Cupelow or Lanthorne Whence your Eye has a very ffine view of ye whole town and Country; this is all Supported on its own work. Under the theater is a roome wch is ffitted for printing, where I printed My name Severall tymes. The outside of ye theater there is a pavement and spikes of Iron in a Raile round with pillars of stone to secure it from the street. Just by it is a little building wch is full of Antiquityes wch have many Curiositys in it of Mettles, Stones, Ambers, Gumms.
There is the picture of a Gentleman yt was a Great benefactor to it being a travailer; the fframe of his picture is all wood carved very finely with all sorts of figures, Leaves, birds, beast and flowers. He gave them 2 ffine gold Meddals or Silve gilt wth two ffine great Chaines of the same, one was all curious hollow worke wch were given him by some prince beyond the Sea. There is a Cane which looks like a Solid heavy thing but if you take it in yor hands its as light as a feather, there is a Dwarfe shoe and boote, there are several Loadstones, and it is pretty to See how ye steele Clings or follows it, hold it on the top att some distance the needles stand quite upright, hold it on either side it moves towards it as it rises and falls.
There are several good Colledges I saw most of ym. Waddom hall is but little; in Trinity Colledge is a fine neate Chapple, new made, finely painted. Christ Church is ye largest Colledge. The Courts large, ye buildings large and lofty; in one of the Courts is a tower new built for to hang the Mighty Tom, that bell is of a Large size, so great a Weight they were forced to have engines from London to raise it up to the tower. There is a fine ring of bells in ye Colledge St Magdalines, its just by the river, there is to Maudline Hall (which is a very large and good Cloyster) a very fine gravell walk, two or 3 may walke abreast, and Rows of trees on either side, and this is round a water wch Makes it very pleasant.
St Johns Colledge had fine gardens and walkes but I did but just look into it, so I did into kings, and queens Colledges, and severall of the rest I looked into, they are much alike in building but none so large as Christ Church Colledge. I was in New Colledge wch is very neate, but not large, the buildings good, Ye Chapple very fine; Ye Garden was new makeing, there is a large bason of water In the Middle there is little walkes and mazes and round mounts for the schollars to divert themselves.
In Corpus Christus Colledge wch is but small there I was entertained at supper and eate of their very good bread and beare which is remarkably the best anywhere Oxford Bread is.
The Physick garden afforded great diversion and pleasure, the variety of flowers and plants would have entertained one a week. The few remarkable things I tooke notice off was ye Aloes plant wch is like a great flag in shape, leaves and Coullour, and grows in the fform of an open Hartichoake and towards the bottom of each Leafe its very broad and thicke, In wch there are hollows or receptacles for ye Aloes.
There is also ye sensible plant, take but a Leafe between finger and thumb and squeeze it and it immediately Curles up together as if pained and after some tyme opens abroad again, it looks in Coullour like a filbert Leafe but much narrower and long. There is also the humble plant that grows on a long slender Stalke and do but strike it, it falls flatt on ye ground stalke and all, and after some tyme revives againe and Stands up, but these are nice plants and are kept mostly under Glass’s, ye aire being too rough for them. There is ye wormwood sage Called Mountaigne sage, its to all appearance like Comon sage only of yellower green, a narrow long Leafe full of ribbs; In yor Mouth the flavour is strong of Wormwood to the taste. The library is as large as 2 or 3 roomes but old and a little disreguarded except one part wch is parted from the rest, wansecoated and fitted up neate and painted which was done by King james ye Second wn he designed Maudling Colledg for his priests A Seminary. Here I met wth some of my relations who accompanyed me about to see some of the Colledges I had not seen before, St John’s Colledge which is large and has a ffine Garden at one Entrance of it with Large Iron-gates Carved and Gilt; its built round two Courts: the Library is two walks, one out of the other the inner one has severall Anatomy’s in Cases and some other Curiosity of Shells, stone, bristol Diamonds, skins of ffish and beasts. Here they have the Great Curiosity Much spoken off King Charles the ffirsts Picture; Ye whole Lines of fface band and garment to the Shoulders and armes and garter is all written hand and Containes the whole Comon prayer, itts very small the Character, but where a straight Line is you May read a word or two; there is another of Gustaus Adolphus whose portraiture is represented to the Eye in writeing alsoe and Contains his whole Life and prowess; there is alsoe the Lord’s prayer and ten Commandments in the Compass of a Crown piece; there are also Severall books all of writing on vellum Leaves, and one book written in ye Chinease Caractor on the jndian barks off trees; there is alsoe a Book of the Genealogies of the Kings since the Conquest to King Charles the Second, with the Severall Coates all Gilded very fresh till the two or three Last wch is pretended to be difficient from the art being Lost of Laying Gold so ffine on anything to polish it, but thats a great Mistake for that art is still in use in England, but the Excuse served the Negligence or jgnorance of the workman; there was alsoe One book wth severall Cutts in it off ye Conception of Christ till his Ascention. There was alsoe a ffine prayer book or Mass book of Q. Marias, this was in the new part of the Library which was neately wanscoated and adorned. There is a ffine grove of trees and walks all walled round.
Queens Colledge Library is all new and a stately building Emulating that of Christ Church in Cambridge, it is not so large and stands on one range of Pillars of stone, the other ffront being all with Statues in Stone, in Nitches and Carved adornements and on the tops ffigures and statues. The Staircase is pretty broad but not so ffinely wanscoated or Carved as that at Cambridge, the roomes is Lofty, but not so large, Well Wanscoated and there is good Carvings; its Mostly full of Books in the severall divisions and great Globes, its boarded Under foot, there is no ballcoany because the prospect is but to a dead wall, its very handsom.
Trinity Colledge Chapple which was not ffinish’d the Last tyme I was at Oxford but now it is a Beautifull Magnifficent Structure. Its Lofty and Curiously painted—the Rooffe and Sides ye history of Christ’s ascention a very ffine Carving of thin white wood just Like that at Windsor it being the same hand. The whole Chappel is Wanscoated with Walnut tree and the fine sweet wood ye same yt ye Lord Oxfford brought over when high admiral of England, and has wanscoated his hall and staircase with. It is sweet like Cedar and of a Reddish Coullr, but ye graine much ffiner and well vein’d.
New Colledge which belongs to the ffiennes’s, William of Wickam the founder, so I look’d on myself as some way a little Interested in that, here I was very handsomly Entertained by Mr Cross wch was one of my nephew Say and Seale’s Tutors when at Oxfford. These ffellowshipp in New Colledge are about 100 say and a very pretty appartinent of Dineing Roome, bed Chamber, a studdy and a room for a Servant, tho’ ye Serviteurs of the Colledge gives attendance; and here they may Live very Neatly and well if Sober and have all their Curiosityes they take much delight in, greens of all sorts, Myrtle, oringe and Lemons and Lorrestine growing in potts of Earth and so moved about from place to place and into the aire sometymes. There are severall New Lodgings added and beautifyed here, the Gardens also wth gravell and Grass walkes, some shady and a great mount in the Middle wch is ascended by Degrees in a round of Green paths deffended by greens cutt Low, and on ye top is a summer house. Beyond these Gardens is a bowling-green and round it a Close shady walke, walled round and a Cutt hedge to the bowling-green.
There are in Oxford 18 Colledges and Six halls viz. New Colledge, Christ Church, Martin Colledge, Corpus Christy Colledge, Magdalen Colledge, University Coll, Pembroke Colledge, Linghorn Colledge, which is overlook’t by the Devil, Brasen-nose Colledge, Wadham Colledge, Queens Colledge, Belial Colledge, Orrel Colledge, Trinity Colledge, Exetter Colledge, All-souls Colledge, Jesus Colledge, St Johns Colledge,—halls 7 viz Alben hall, Maudlin hall, Newin hall, Hart Hall, Glocester hall, St Mary hall, and Edmond hall. There is a very odd Custom In Queen Coll. for every new-years-day, there is a Certain Sum Laid out In Needles and thread wch was Left by ye founder and every Gentleman of that Colledge has one given him wth these words: Take this and be thrifty.
In New Colledge Garden in ye plott there is ye Colledg Armes Cutt in box and ye 24 Letters round it.
Next plott a sun-dial cutt in box and true-Lovers knotts; att ye entrance of ye Colledge over ye gate is the ffiennes’s and ye Wickhams Arms Cutt in stone Sett up there by my Nephew Say when he was at ye Colledge before his travels. There is a large stone statue in the Middle of ye first quadrangle of William of Wickhams ye ffounder, railed in wth Iron Grates.
In ye Library are ye pictures of some of ye learned men wch belonged formerly to the University.
From Oxford I went to Abington and Cross’d ye River Thames on a bridge att ye end of ye town and so Entered into Barkshire and rode along by ye thames side a good way, wch was full of Barges and Lighters—its 6 mile to Abington. Before I proceed will Insert ye names of ye ffounders of ye halls and Colledges in Oxford. University Colledge was founded by King Alfred. Baliol Coll. was founded by John and David Baliol, Merton Coll. by Walter de Mert, Exetter Coll. by Walter Stapleton, Oriel Colledge by King Edward the second, Queen Coll. by Robert Egglesfield, New Colledge by Wm of Wickham, Lincoln Colledge by Richard Fleming, All souls Coll. by Henry Chicklay Magdalin Coll. by Wm Wainfleet, Brason-nose Coll. by Wm Smith, and Richd Sutton, Corpus-Christy Coll. by Richd fox, Christ-Church Coll. by Henry ye eight, Trinity Colledge by Tho. Pope, St Johns Coll. Thomas white, Jesus Colledge by Queen Elizabeth, Wadham Coll. by Nicholas and Dorothy Wadham, Pembrooke Coll. by Thomas Feisdale and Richd Whitewick, Hart Hall by Walter Stapleton, St Mary Hall by King Edward the 2d, Newin Hall by Wm of Wickham, Magdalen Hall by Wm of Wainfleet, Gloster Hall by thomas White, Alton Hall by ye abbess of Alban, St Edmond Hall by ye arch Bishop of Canterbury.
From thence I went to Abington. Abington town seemes a very well built town and the Market Cross is the ffinest in England, its all of free stone and very Lofty; Even ye Isles or Walk below is a Lofty arch on severall Pillars of square Stone and four square Pillars: over it are Large Roomes with handsome windows, above wch is some Roomes with Windows and Little Like the Theatre att Oxford only this is a Square building and that round, it makes a very ffine appearance.
From thence I went to Elsly 8 mile farther, a little Market town, good Inns thence Newbury. Most of this way is much on Downs and good Roads, its 7 mile to Newbury where I called on an old acquaintance Marryed to a tradesman Mr Every, who is so Like the Minister his Uncle yt was my acquaintance. Here I staid an hour and then proceeded on to Basenstoke 12 long miles, being my ready road to Chichister, and from Basenstoke to Alton 8 mile and from thence to Petersffield and to Nurstead 11 long Miles, this was in Hampshire so was Basenstoke: here I lay at a Relations House Mr Holt that marry’d My Mothers sister. From thence I went to Chichester through a very ffine Parke of the Lord Tankervailes, stately woods and shady tall trees at Least 2 mile, in ye Middle stands his house wch is new built, square, 9 windows in ye ffront and seven in the sides. Brickwork wth free stone coynes and windows, itts in the Midst of fine gardens, Gravell and Grass walks and bowling green, wth breast walls Divideing each from other, and so discovers the whole to view. Att ye Entrance a Large Coart wth Iron gates open wch Leads to a less, ascending some stepps, ffree stone in a round, thence up More Stepps to a terrass, so to the house; it looks very neate and all orchards and yards convenient. Thence I entered into Sussex and soe Chichester, wch is 12 miles. This is but a Little Citty Encompass’d with a wall wth 4 gates which Casts the two streetes directly across each other and so Lookes through from Gate to Gate, one Streete does, the other it seemes did so formerly, but in new building of some of their houses they have encroach’d into the Streete and so hinders the through visto. In Midst of these 2 or 4 streetes Divided by the Market place is a very faire Cross of Stone Like a Church or greate arch, its pretty Large and pirramydy form wth severall Carvings. The Cathedrall is pretty Lofty, ye painting on ye Roofe in the quire and Isles Looked very ffresh tho’ 300 yeares old, there is in the jsle on ye roofe ye phaney of 6 faces joyned and 6 eyes and yet each face has two eyes and in another place the faces turned outward and so the 6 faces are 12 eyes. The Quire is good, there is a fixed pulpit in it overight ye Bishops seate wch is not usual, I never saw it before—Usually they have pulpits that are Moveable.
There is a faire Organ and another pulpit in ye body of the Church, there is also an entire Church in ye Cathedral by it self wch is ye parish Church. There are in all 6 parishes and so many Churches besides ye Cathedrall. Over the alter is painted glass Chequer’d blew white and Red, so deepe the Coullr is struck into the Glass as makes it darkish, in one of the Isles is a square place, on each side ye Wall is filled with ye Kings pictures from ye Conquest to their present Majestyes; there is also one Picture pretty Large of a Saxon King in his Robes and an abbott with his brethren, petitioning to build this Cathedrall which before belonged to ye Isle of Ely where was ye Bishops see. There is also one large Picture of another Bishop petitioning King Harry ye 8th to ffinish and paint ye Church. On ye other side the wall is filled up wth ye severall abbots and Bishops since ye Conquest that have been of Chichester. In their advancement they are brought from Bristol to Chichester and next advance is to Ely and so on to greater revenues. The tower is 260 odd steps, from whence you may see the whole town. There are 3 or 4 good New houses, one is ye Dean’s, Mr Edds, a very good man; from thence I saw ye Isle of Wight, Spitthead; the sea comes within a mile of ye Citty, Remarkable for Lobsters and Crabs Chichester is. There is an Engine or Mill about a Mile off the town draws up salt water at one side from the sea and fresh water from a Little rivulet wch descends from a hill, and so supply’s ye town. Halfe way off ye tower you go round ye quire and Looke down into it, there are severall effigies of marble and allabaster of ye Bishops of the place and one of the Earle of Arundell and his Lady.
Chichester is 50 mile from London ye Direct way by Guildford, but I went through more of Sussex wch is much in blind dark Lanes and up and down Steepe hills, to Billinghurst and passed through Arundell parke belonging to ye Duke of Norfolke, this was 18 mile, from whence I went to Dorken in Surry 15 mile, where are ye best trouts in ye river wch runns by Box hill a Remarkable diversion to people that go to Epsum. The hill is full of box wch is Cutt out in severall walks shady and pleasant to walk in tho’ the Smell is not very agreeable; the brow of the hill being Such a height gives a Large prospect of a ffruitfull vale full of inclosures and woods, and this River Runns twining itself about and is called ye Swallow, and Just about Dorken and Leatherhead 4 mile thence it sinkes away in many places wch they call Swallow holes, this Must be some quicksand, but ye Report of it is it sincks here and runnes undr ground a Mile or two and rises about Moles and Runs againe. Camden does credit this and repeates a tryal one made of forceing a Duck into one of those falls wch Came out at ye other side by Moles wth its ffeathers allmost all Rubbed off wch supposses ye passage to be streight, but how they Could force ye Duck into so difficult a way or whither anything of this is more than Conjecture must be Left to every ones Liberty to judge. From Dorken its 10 mile to Kingsston, a Chalky hard Road wch is in Surrey, this stands on the Thames, its a great Market for Corne; I was there on Satturday and saw great quantity’s of Corn and Mault sold; thence I passed by Richmond park wall a good way and Came in sight of Hampton Court wch is a Noble Building, had the good queen Mary Lived to have ffinished it, it would have been ye noblest palace in ye Kingdom. I passed the end of Wanstead and Clapham and part of Lambeth having Chealsey College in view and ye whole Cittys of Westminster and London so thro’ Southwarke over London bridge into Middlesex 10 mile in all from Kingston—this Little journey was 220 mile.