There was some few brass and marble statues in the Church but much demolished as was y^e Church. Rhye town is not very bigg—a little Market place—this is famous for fish; from hence all the good turbutt, pearle and Dorea and all sort of sea fish Comes to supply y^e wells and London, but I could get little. Y^e faire took up y^e ffishermen. Indeed here I dranke Right french white wine and Exceeding good and then returned to y^e wells 38 miles. In the Road from thence to London you go either by Fair lane and so Come just by S^r Harry Vaines house (now Lord Barnett), w^ch Lookes very finely w^th y^e Rows of trees about it, or Else you go by Sevenoake a sad deep Clay way after wett. You Come in sight of a great house on a hill Called Summerly, looks like a Little town it runs on so much ground, it was the Lord Purbeckes.

You also Come in sight of Nonsuch w^ch was a great house of the Kings Built by Charles the Second. You pass on to the Riverhead as they Call it, a fine spring of Cleare water y^t runs thence in a Little River. is at the foote of a great hill Called Madam Scott hill so steepe as seldome is Either Rode down or up, and few Coaches but gaines the top of it by a Compass round it w^ch is steep Enough. This is 15 mile from the wells—thence to Ffarnburough: about 8 mile, thence to Brumley, and to London 15 more.

MY GREAT JOURNEY TO NEWCASTLE
AND TO CORNWALL,

the account of many journeys into most parts of England, what observation and distance of one place to another in my travels.

Ffrom London to Albins in Essex 17 mile S^r Robert abdys, Whose house stands very pleasantly in a parke full of deer. The house on an advanced ground appeares to view at y^e Entrance, but its old building: Large Roomes—some Rows of trees Lead up to it. Thence I returned home 17 mile more, from London to Bednal-green twice, and back againe 16 mile, from London to Highgate 4 miles to M^r Thomas’s house, where is a most exact garden w^th all sorts of greens and flowers and fish ponds. There my Nephew Ffiennes Harrison w^th M^r Showers went to fish w^th me. Thence we went to Hampstead, so made it 5 mile home againe. I went from London twice and back againe from Kensington, in all 8 mile—this I put in only to know the number of miles y^t I went in one yeare.

Ffrom London to Amwell bery w^ch is in Hartfordshire 19 mile, where I staid a day or two: thence to Bishopstafford in Essex 13 mile, thence to Dunmew 8 long miles thro’ severall Little villages; its very deep way Especially after raine. This is a Little Market town: they are altogether taken up about the spinning and prepareing for the Bayes. All along between that and Colchester you pass but halfe a mile Ere one Comes to two or 3 houses all along the road; its from Dunmow to Colchester 22 miles and mostly Clay deep way. Colchester is a Large town in the Compass of Ground. Fformerly there was 16 Churches tho’ now much of it is ruinated. A mile before you Come to the new town one Enters a little village which still is in the Limits of y^e Citty and Majors jurisdiction; there is a pretty good house of y^e Lord Lucas.

You Enter the town by a gate; there are 4 in all; there is a Large Streete w^ch runs a great Length down to the bridge, near a mile long: about the middle of it runs another broad streete and near its Length like stalls on purpose to Lay their Bayes when exposed to saile. Great quantetyes are made here and sent in Bales to London that is 44 miles distant. Y^e whole town is Employ’d in spinning weaveing, washing drying and dressing their Bayes in w^ch they seeme very Industrious. There I saw y^e Card they use to Comb and dress the Bayes, w^ch they Call y^m testles, w^ch are a kind of Rush tops or something Like them w^ch they put in frames or Laths of wood. The town Looks Like a thriveing place by the substantiall houses and well pitched streetes w^ch are broad Enough for two Coaches to go a breast, besides a pitch’d walke on Either side by y^e houses secured by stumps of wood, and is Convenient for 3 to walke together. Their buildings are of timber of Loame and Lathes and much tileing: the fashion of the Country runs much in Long Roofes and great Cantilivers and peakes. Out of these great streetes runs many Little streetes, but not very narrow—mostly old buildings Except a few houses builded by some Quakers, y^t are brick and of the London mode. The town did Extend itself to the sea but now its ruines sets it 3 mile off. Y^e low Grounds all about y^e town are used for y^e whitening their Bayes for w^ch this town is remarkable, and also for Exceeding good oysters, but its a dear place and to Grattifye my Curiosity to Eate them on y^e place I paid dear. Its a town full of Dessenters, 2 meeteings very full besides anabaptists and quakers. Formerly the famous M^r Stockton was minister there till he Dyed. From Colchester to jpswitch is 10 mile, and thence to Dedom 9 miles, the way pretty good Except 4 or 5 miles they Call y^e severalls, a sort of deep moore Ground and woody. At this place I passed over a wooden bridge, pretty Large, w^th timber railes of w^ch make they build their bridges in these parts; and now I go into Suffolk w^ch is not so rich Land as y^e part of Essex I passed through, w^ch was meadows and grounds w^th great burdens of grass and Corn. So I went to jpswitch 9 mile more; this is a very Clean town and much bigger than Colchester is now. Ipswitch has 12 Churches, their streetes of a good size well pitch’d w^th small stones; a good market Cross railed in. I was there on Satturday w^ch is their market day and saw they sold their Butter by y^e pinte 20 ounces for 6 pence and often for 5^d or 4^d; they make it up in a mold just in the shape of a pinte pot and so sell it. Their Market Cross has good Carving, y^e ffigure of justice Carv’d and Gilt. There is but 3 or 4 good houses in y^e town—y^e rest is much Like y^e Colchester buildings, but it seems more shatter’d, and Indeed the town Looks a Little disregarded, and by Enquiry found it to be thro’ pride and sloth, for tho’ the sea would bear a ship of 300 tun up quite to y^e Key, and y^e ships of y^e first Rate Can Ride w^th in two mile of the town, yet they make no advantage thereof by any sort of manufacture, w^ch they might do as well as Colchester and Norwitch, so that y^e shipps that brings their Coales goes Light away, neither do they address themselves to victual or provide for shipps. They have a Little dock where formerly they built ships of 2 or 3 tun, but now Little or Nothing is minded save a Little ffishing for y^e supply of y^e town. There is one pretty good house of y^e Earle of Herrifords that marry’d one of M^r Norborns Daughters, that was Killed by S^r Tho: Montgomery. You Enter thro’ two Courts walled and divided by a breast wall on w^ch are Iron spikes pallasadoes: the Middle is a broad gravell walk fenced in w^th stone walls; on Each side 3 or 4 steps up into the other Court, and so many steps more thro’ an arch into a third Court. This arch joyns a Low building w^ch are the offices Leaded on the top, and rail’d round, and Each End Enters into Chambers joyning to y^e house, that is built round this Last Court from whence you Enter y^e porch. The house is handsome all brick worke and brick pillars; a good hall, parlour, and drawing roome, and Large Closet, 2 or 3 other Roomes less, answereing it and a Billyard Roome above w^th as many roomes of state all ffurnish’d w^th good old things: a pretty staircase, but its all Little. There are 3 gardens on the one side w^th grass and gravell walkes all kept neate, and good fruite; on the other side is one Large garden w^th a sumer house in w^ch stands a Large statue, black, of a Gigantick form and proportion; this answeres the fine green house on y^e other side. This town has many dessenters in it. Thence I went to Woodbridge 7 miles mostly Lanes, Enclosed Countrys. This is a Little Market town but has a great meeting for y^e dessenters. Thence to Wickham 5 mile more but these are all very Long miles.

Thence to Saxmunday 8 miles more: this is a pretty bigg market town. The wayes are pretty deep, mostly Lanes very Little Commons. I pass’d by severall Gentlemens seates, one, M^r Dormers w^ch stands in a fine parke. Y^e Entrance from y^e Road thro’ rows of trees Discover’d the front and building very finely to view, being built w^th stone and Brick and many sashes: Lookes like a new house w^th y^e open jron barr gates between pillars of stone the breadth of y^e house. So to Bathfort 8 miles where is the remaines of y^e walls of an abby and there is still a very fine Church all Carv’d in stone hollow work one tire above another to y^e tower that ascends not very high but finely Carv’d: also hence I descended with Low^r grounds banck’d on Each side w^th a brick wall, but Low and so a walk on it for foote people, and severall arches here and there to draine off the water, so that those bancks are to secure the Road from the Marshy ffenny water that of a great Extent on both sides is subject to. Thence I passed by some woods and Little villages of a few scattered houses, and Generally y^e people here are able to give so bad a Direction that passengers are at a loss what aime to take: they know scarce 3 mile from their home, and meete them where you will and Enquire how farre to such a place they mind not where they are then, but tell you so farre, w^ch is the distance from their own houses to y^t place. I saw at a distance as I descended some of their hills a Large place that Look’d nobly and stood very high Like a Large town. They told me it was called Either Stowle or Nole I cannot tell w^ch. I Rode in sight of S^t Georges Channell In the way from Colchester and Ipswitch and so to Norwich. Sometymes it was in view then Lost againe. To Beckle is 8 mile more w^ch in all was 36 miles from Ipswitch, but Exceeding Long miles; they do own they are 41 measured miles. This is a Little market town but its the third biggest town in y^e County of Suffolke—Ipswitch Berry and this. Here was a good big meeteing place at Least 400 hearers and they have a very good minister one M^r Killinghall; he is but a young man but seemed very serious. I was there y^e Lords day. S^r Robert Rich is a great supporter of them and Contributed to y^e building the meeteing place w^ch is very neate. He has a good house at y^e End of the town w^th fine gardens. There are no good buildings the town, being old timber and plaister work Except his and one or two more. There is a pretty bigg market Cross, and a great Market kept. There is a handsome stone built Church and a very good publick minister whose name is Armstrong: he preaches very well they say notwithstanding the town is a sad Jacobitish town. This Chooses no parliam^t men. At y^e towns End one passes over the river Waveny on a wooden bridg railed w^th timber and so you Enter into Norfolk: its a Low flatt ground all here about, so that the Least raines they are overflowed by y^e River and Lye under water as they did when I was there, so that the roade Lay under water w^ch is very unsafe for strangers to pass by reason of y^e holes and quicksands and Loose bottom. The ordinary people both in Suffolk and Norfolk knitt much and spin, some w^th y^e Rock and fusoe as the French does, others at their wheeles out in the streete and Lanes as one passes. Its from this town to Norwitch 12 miles, and its 10 to Yarmouth where they build some small shipps, and is a harbour for them and where they victual them. Also Harwitch about 12 or 14 miles also, but the miles are here as long again as about London and pretty deep way, Especially after raines: these miles are much Longer than most miles in Yorkshire.

Norwitch opens to view a mile distance by the help of a hill whereon is a little village. As I observe most of y^e great towns and Cittys have about them Little villages as attendants or appendix’s to them w^ch are a sort of Subburbs, there being stragling houses for y^e most part all the way between y^t and y^e gates. You pass over a high bridge y^t leads on over a high Causey of a pretty Length w^ch Lookes somewhat dangerous being fenced with trenches from its bancks (pretty deep) that’s on both sides to secure it from the water, and these trenches runns in many places round the Low grounds to drain them, w^ch Employ’d to whiten and Bleach their woollen stuff the manufacture of the place. This Long Causey brings you to the Large stone bridge over the river into w^ch those trenches Empty themselves.

Then you proceed to the Citty w^ch is walled round full of towers Except on the river side w^ch serves for the wall. They seeme y^e best in repaire of any walled Citty I know tho’ in some places there are little breaches, but the Carving and battlements and towers Lookes well. I enter’d the west gate. There are 12 gates in all and 36 Churches, which is to be seen in a Clear Day altogether on the Castle walls—I told 30 myself there. They are built all of flints well headed or Cut w^ch makes them Look blackish and shineing. The streetes are all well pitch’d w^th small stones and very Clean, and many very broad streetes: y^t I Entred in first was very broad for 2 Coaches or Carts to pass on Either side, and in the middle was a great well house w^th a wheele to wind up the water for the good of y^e publick. A Little further is a Large pond walled up w^th brick a mans height w^th an Entrance on one End. A Little farther was a building on which they were at work, design’d for a water house to supply y^e town by pipes into their houses w^th water. At a Little distance was another such a pond walled in as I described before. These things fill up the middle of this spacious streete w^ch is for use and also ornament, y^e spaces Each side being so broad. This brings you into a broad space Called the Hay market w^ch is on a hill, a very steep descent all well pitch’d as before: this Comes to another space for a market to sell hoggs in, and opens farther into divisions of buildings that begins severall streetes y^t runs off good Lengths and are of a tollerable size. One runs along behind w^ch is all for stalls for y^e Country butchers that bring their meate for y^e supply of y^e town, w^ch pay such a Rent for them to y^e town. On y^e other side are houses of y^e town butchers, y^e Inhabitants: by it is a Large market for fish, w^ch are all at a Little distance from y^e heart of y^e Citty, so is not annoy’d w^th them. There is a very Large market place and hall and Cross for fruite and little things Every day, and also a place under pillars for y^e Corn market.

The building round here is Esteemed y^e best and here is the town Hall, but all their buildings are of an old form, mostly in deep poynts and much tileing as has been observ’d before, and they playster on Laths w^ch they strike out into squares like broad free stone on y^e outside, w^ch makes their fronts Look pretty well; and some they build high and Contract y^e roofes resembling the London houses, but none of brick Except some few beyond the river w^ch are built of some of y^e Rich factors like y^e London buildings. There is in y^e middle of y^e town the Duke of Norfolks house of Brick and stone, w^th severall towers and turrets and balls y^t Looks well, w^th Large gardens, but y^e Inside is all demolished only y^e walls stand and a few Roomes for offices but nothing of state or tollerable for use.

On y^e Castle hill you see y^e whole Citty at once, being built round it: its a vast place and takes up a Large tract of ground, its 6 miles in Compass.

Here is the County hall and Goale where y^e assizes are held and y^e Sessions. Nothing of y^e Castle remaines but a green space, and under it is also a Large space for y^e beast market, and 3 tymes in y^e year is there a very great faire kept to w^ch resort a vaste Concourse of people, and wares—a full trade. Y^e whole Citty Lookes Like what it is, a Rich thriveing Industrious place; Satturday is their great market day. They have beside y^e town hall a hall distinct w^ch is the scaleing hall where their stuffs are all measured, and if they hold their breadths and Lengths they are scaled, but if they are deffective there is a fine Layd on y^e owner and a private marke on y^e stuff w^ch shews its defficiency.

There was also y^e mint which they Coyn’d, but since the old money is all new Coyn’d into mill’d money, that Ceases. Here there is a ffine large Cathedrall and very Loftly, but nothing remarkable of monuments or else: by it is 3 hospitalls for boys girls and old people who spinn yarne, as does all y^e town besides for y^e Crapes, Callimancos and damaskes w^ch is y^e whole business of the place. Indeed they are arrived to a great perfection in worke, so fine and thinn and glossy; their pieces are 27 yards in Length and their price is from 30 shillings to 3 pound as they are in ffineness. A man Can weave 13 yards a day, I saw some weaveing; they are all Employ’d in spinning, knitting weaveing, dying, scouring or bleaching stuffs. Their hospitalls are well provided for; there are 32 women in one as many men in y^e other, there is also a good free schoole. There is a great many Cerimonyes in y^e Choice and Swearing their major: they Elect him the first day of May and yⁿ prepare for his being sworne on Holly Thursday. They new washe and plaister their houses w^th in and without w^ch they strike out in squares like free stone. All y^e streete in w^ch this mayor Elect’s house, is very exact in beautifying themselves and hanging up flaggs y^e Coull^rs of their Companyes, and dress up pageants and there are playes and all sorts of show that day—in Little what is done at y^e Lord major of London show. Then they have a great feast w^th fine flaggs and scenes hung out, musick and danceing. I was in y^e hall they keep their feast in and saw some of their preparations: for that day being about a fortnight to it. The town is a mile and a halfe from y^e North to y^e South gate. Just by one of y^e Churches there is a wall made of flints that are headed very finely and Cut so exactly square and Even to shutt in one to another that y^e whole wall is made without Cement at all they say, but it appears to be very little if any morter; it Looks well, very smooth shineing and black.

A great many descenters are in this Citty, the Gentlewoman that was my acquaintance there dyed 10 dayes before I came thither so I made no great stay there but to see about y^e town.

Thence I went to Windham a Little market town 5 miles, mostly on a Causey y^e Country being Low and moorish, and y^e Road on y^e Causey was in many places full of holes tho’ its secured by a barr at which passengers pay a penny a horse in order to the mending y^e way, for all about is not to be Rode on Unless its a very dry summer. Thence we went mostly through Lanes where you meete y^e ordinary people knitting 4 or 5 in a Company under the hedges. To Attlborough, 5 mile more to a Little village, still finding the Country full of spinners and Knitters: thence to Thetford 6 miles more, w^ch was formerly a large place but now much decay’d and the ruines only shews it dimentions. There is a very high hill quite round stands up on one side of it and Can scarcely be ascended so steep. Here I Lay, w^ch is still in Norfolk. Next day I went to Euston Hall w^ch was y^e Lord arlingtons and by his only daughters marriage w^th y^e Duke of Grafton is his sons by her. Its two mile from thetford, it stands in a Large parke 6 miles about. Y^e house is a Roman H of brick: 4 towers w^th balls on them; the windows are Low and not sashes Else y^e roomes are of a good size and height, a good stair case full of good pictures, a Long gallery hung w^th pictures at Length, on y^e one side the Royal family from K: Henry y^e 7^th by y^e Scottish race, his Eldest daughter down to y^e present King William and his queen Mary. The other side are forreign princes from y^e Emperour of Moroccoe, y^e Northern and Southern princes and Emperour of Germany. There is a square in y^e middle where stands a billiard table, hung w^th outlandish pictures of Heroes; there is Count Egmint and Horn &c &c, but y^e End of y^e Roome is y^e Duke and Dutchess of Grafton’s picture at length. Thence I enter’d into dineing and drawing roome and bed Chambers of a very good size and good fret work on y^e Cieling: in one of the roomes was y^e Dutchess of Cleavelands picture in a sultaness dress, the Duke of Grafton being King Charles y^e seconds base son by her. There was also another picture of y^e Royal family. K Charles y^e firsts 5 Children altogether. I have often seen 3 w^ch was K: Charles y^e second, K: James and y^e Princess of Orange; but here was also y^e Lady Elizabeth and y^e Duke of Glocester a Little Infant on a pillow. In another place there is the queen mothers picture the Lady Henrietta drawn Large. There is a fine hall and parlour below pav’d w^th free stone. There are good gardens w^th fountaines and some stone statutes, a Cannall by y^e side, a Large Court at y^e Entrance w^th 3 Iron barr gates w^ch open to y^e ffront, divided w^th stone pillars and balls. Y^e Court w^th out is walled round and y^e wall is Carry’d a great Length round y^e back yards. Within this is another Court w^th Iron spike pallasadoes divided Every 2 or 3 yards by little stone pillars with balls. There are severall Rows of trees runs of a great length thro’ the parke a visto to y^e front of y^e house, w^ch lookes nobly tho’ not just of y^e new modell’d way of building. At y^e back gate I crossed over y^e river Waveney w^ch is y^e division of y^e two County’s and enter’d Suffolk and pass’d over perfect downs, Champion Country just like Salisbery plaine; and y^e winds have a pretty power here and blows strongly in y^e winter not well to be Endured.

So to S^t Edmundsbery 8 mile, but as has been often observ’d before, the miles are very long. I pass’d by two or 3 Little villages, and about 2 mile off there is y^e town of St Edm^ds Bury w^ch appeares standing on a great hill, y^e towers and buildings Look so Compact and well together w^th the trees and gardens thick about it y^e prospect was wonderfully pleasant. A mile off by a little village I descended a hill which made y^e prospect of y^e town still in view and much to advantage, its but two parishes. Y^e market Cross has a dyal and Lanthorn on y^e top, and there being another house pretty Close to it high built w^th such a tower and lanthorn also, w^th y^e two Churches towers and some other buildings pretty good, made it appear nobly at a distance. This high house is an apothecarys—at least 60 stepps up from y^e ground and gives a pleaseing prospect of ye whole town. Severall streetes but no good buildings Except this, the rest are great old houses of timber and mostly of y^e old forme of y^e Country w^ch are long peaked roofes of tileing. This house is the new mode of building; 4 roomes of a floore pretty sizeable and high, well furnish’d, a drawing roome and Chamber full of China and a damaske bed Embroyder’d: 2 other Roomes, Camlet and Mohaire beds; a pretty deale of plaite in his wives Chambers and parlours below, and a large shop. He is esteem’d a very Rich man. He shewed me a Curiosity of an Herball all written out w^th Every sort of tree and herb dryed and Cut out and pasted on the Leaves; it was a doctor of Physicks work that left it him a Legacy at his Death, it was a fine thing and would have delighted me severall dayes but I was passant. There was two streetes were broad and very Long, out of w^ch ran a Cross 5 or 6 streetes more w^ch are as good as in most Country towns—they are well pitch’d w^th small stones. There are many descenters in y^e town—4 meeteing places w^th y^e Quakers and anabaptists. There is only the ruines of y^e abby walls and the fine gate at the Entrance that remaines—stone, well Carv’d. It seemes to be a thriveing Industrious town; 4 gates in it.

There are a great deale of Gentry w^ch Lives in y^e town, tho’ there are no good houses but w^ch are old and rambling ones. They are in that they Call the green, a space by y^e Churches w^ch are pretty near together. They are pretty Large but nothing Curious in them—stone buildings—no monuments worth notice. They keep them very Clean and neate and have a moveable scaffold to Clean the roofe and windows and walls. Its a very dear place, so much Company Living in the town makes provision scarce and dear: however its a good Excuse to raise the Reckoning on strangers.

Thence I went to admiral Russells who is now Lord orfford, a long 10 mile, and Loseing my way made it 12 mile; its pretty good way. I passed by a village or two, and in a mile of Lord orffords house I Enter Cambridgeshire, w^ch stands 3 mile from New market. You Ride in sight of New market heath where the Races are—its good Road; here are severall good gardens well kept good gravell and green walks w^th fine greens and flowers, walled in and all the outhouses very handsome. A Coach yard and stables in the middle of w^ch is a Large gate into y^e ground, and built over w^th a high lanthorn where hangs the Clock and bell: this stands higher than y^e house like a tower; y^e house being a flatt Roofe leaded and railed round full of Chimneys, but this tower I saw 10 mile off. All y^e out offices built round a Court very handsome. The hall is very noble paved w^th free stone, a squaire of black marble at Each Corner of y^e freestone: there are two fine white marble tables veined w^th bleu; its wanscoated w^th wall nut tree, the pannells and Rims round w^th mulbery tree y^t is a Lemon Coullour, and y^e moldings beyond it round are of a sweete outlandish wood not much differing from Cedar but of a finer Graine, the Chaires are all the same: its hung w^th pictures att full proportion of y^e Royal family all in their Coronation Robes, from Charles the first to his Majesty w^th y^e Queen also, and at the End is Prince George and Princess Ann in their Robes of Crimson velvet and Dukes Coronet as Duke and Dutchess of Cumberland. The whole house is finely furnish’d w^th differing Coull^d Damaske and velvets, some ffigured and others plaine, at Least 6 or 7 in all Richly made up after a new mode. In y^e best drawing roome was a very Rich hanging gold and silver and a Little scarlet, mostly tissue and brocade of gold and silver and border of green damaske round it; y^e window Curtain y^e same green damaske round it y^e window Curtain y^e same green damaske, and doore Curtains. There was no Looking-glass but on y^e Chimney piece and just opposite in y^e place a Looking glass used to be was 4 pannells of glass in Length and 3 in breadth set together in y^e wanscoate. Y^e same was in another drawing roome w^ch was for my Lord. The dining roome had this Looking glass on y^e top peers between the three windows; it was from y^e top to y^e bottom 2 pannells in breadth and 7 in Length so it shews one from top to toe. The roomes were all well wanscoated and hung and there was y^e finest Carv’d wood in fruitages, herbages, gumms, beasts, fowles &c. very thinn and fine all in white wood w^th out paint or varnish. Y^e severall sorts of things thus Carv’d were Exceeding naturall all round. The Chimney pieces and y^e sconces stand on Each side the Chimney, and the glasses in those Chambers where were Loose Looking-glasses, w^ch were w^th fine Carv’d head and frames some of the naturall wood others Gilt, but they were y^e largest Looking-glasses I Ever saw. There was a great flower pott Gilt Each side the Chimney in the dineing Roome for to sett trees in. Y^e great Curiosity of this wood Carving about y^e Doores Chimneys and sconces, together w^th y^e great Looking Glass pannells is much talked of and is y^e finest and most in quantety and numbers thats to be seen any where. There is very fine China and silver things and irons and jarrs and perfume potts of silver. Y^e common Roomes are all new, Convenient and neate with Double doores lined to prevent noises. Y^e Stair Case is wanscoated, very noble, fine Pictures, there is y^e battle at la Hogue a Large sea piece w^th an jnscription of y^e admiralls valour when y^e great ship y^e Gunn was burnt and mightily valued by y^e ffrench King.

From thence I went 8 mile to Ely w^ch were as long as the 12 I Came from S^t Edmondsbery, y^e wayes being very deep; its mostly Lanes and Low moorish ground on Each Side deffended by y^e ffendiks w^ch are deep ditches w^th draines. Y^e ffenns are full of water and mudd these also Encompass their grounds, Each mans part 10 or a dozen acres a piece or more, so these dieks are the fences. On Each side they plant willows so there is 2 rows of trees runns round y^e ground w^ch Looks very finely to see a flatt of many miles so planted but it must be ill to Live there. All this while Ely minster is in one’s view at a mile distant you would think, but go, it is a Long 4 miles. A mile distant from y^e town is a Little Hamlet from w^ch I descended from a steep hill and so Cross a bridge over water w^ch Enters into y^e Island of Ely, and so you pass a flatt on a Gravel Causey w^ch way y^e Bishop is at y^e Charge to repaire Else there would be no passing in y^e summer. This is secured by some dikes w^ch surround more grounds as y^e former, full of Rows of trees and willows round them w^ch makes Ely looke finely through those trees, and y^t stands very high. In the winter this Caussey is over flowed and they have no way but boates to pass in. They Cut peate out of some of these grounds. The raines now had fallen so as in some places near y^e Citty y^e Caussey was Covered, and a Remarkable deliverance I had, for my horse Earnest to drinke ran to get more depth of water than y^e Caussey had, was on y^e brinke of one of these dikes, but by a speciall providence w^ch I desire never to forget and allways to be thankfull for, Escaped. Y^e bridge was over the River Linn w^ch Comes from Norfolke and does almost Encompass the jsland of Ely w^ch is 20 mile in bigness, in w^ch are severall Little towns as Wisbech and many others. There is another River that joyns w^th y^e Linn w^ch Compasses this land into an jsland. At this bridge is a gate, but by reason of y^e great raines y^e roades were full of water, even quite to y^e town w^ch you ascend a very steep hill into, but y^e dirtyest place I ever saw, not a bitt of pitching in y^e streetes, so its a perfect quagmire y^e whole Citty, only just about y^e palace and Churches the streetes are well enough for breadth, but for want of pitching it seemes only a harbour to breed and nest vermine in of w^ch there is plenty Enough, so that tho’ my Chamber was near 20 Stepps up I had froggs and slow worms and snailes in my Roome, but suppose it was brought up w^th y^e faggotts. But it Cannot but be jnfested w^th all such things being altogether moorish ffenny ground w^ch Lyes Low: it is true were the Least Care taken to pitch their streetes it would make it Looke more properly an habitation for human beings and not a Cage or nest of unclean Creatures. It must needs be very unhealthy tho’ the natives say much to the Contrary w^ch proceeds from Custom and use, otherwise to persons born in up and dry Countryes it must destroy them Like Rotten sheep in Consumptions and Rhums.

The Bishop does not Care to stay long in this place not being for his health; he is the Lord of all the jsland, has the Command and y^e jurisdiction. They have lost their Charter and so are no Corporation but all things are directed by the Bishop and its a shame he does not see it better ordered and y^e buildings and streetes put in a better Condition. They are a slothful people and for little but y^e takeing Care of their Grounds and Cattle w^ch is of vast advantage. Where the yeares prove drye they gaine so much that in Case 6 or 7 wet yeares drown them all over, the one good yeare sufficiently Repaires their loss.

There is a good palace for the Bishop built of stone, but it was unfurnished. There are two Churches; Ely minster is a Curious pile of Building all of stone, the outside full of Carvings and great arches and fine pillars in the front, and the jnside has the greatest variety and neatness in the works. There are two Chappels most Exactly Carved in stone all sorts of figures, Cherubims Gilt and painted in some parts. Y^e Roofe of one Chappell was one Entire stone most delicately Carved, and hung down in great poynts all about y^e Church. The pillars are Carv’d and painted w^th y^e history of y^e bible, Especially the new testament and description of Christs miracles. The Lanthorn in y^e quire is vastly high and delicately painted and fine Carv’d worke all of wood, in it the bells used to be hung, five, the dimention of y^e biggest was so much when they rung them it shooke y^e quire so and y^e Carv’d worke that it was thought unsafe, therefore they were taken down. Its 80 odd steps to the top of y^e Lanthorn and 160 steps round in Compass. There are very good monuments and abundance of niches in the walls where Statues have been; there is one of white marble Laying at length and so Exactly Cut y^t y^e hand lookes Extreamely natural, the sinewes and veines and every turn of y^e fingers so finely done as to appear very proper. There is another that was a Bishop made by Queen Elizabeth whose garments and all are marble and so finely Embroydered Carv’d and painted and gilt and a verge all down before and Round y^e neck w^th y^e ffigures of the apostles done in Embroydery as it were, all marble very fine. There was 4 or 5 more good Marble Statues. There was on one of y^e Pillars y^e shape of y^e seameless Coate w^ch Christ wore. In another place there is a great Red Cross very high on some of y^e arches, and its very dangerous to go or Climbe round, the pillars to it being of a vast height and this used to be as a pennance to y^e people in y^e tyme of popery. There is one Chappell for Confession w^th a Roome and Chaire of State for y^e priest to set to hear y^e people on their knees Confess into his Eare through a hole in y^e wall. This Church has y^e most popish remaines in its walls of any I have seen. There still remaines a Cross over the alter; the Candlesticks are 3 quarters of a y^d high massy silver gilt very heavy. The ffont is one Entire piece of White Marble stemm and foote, the Cover was Carv’d wood w^th y^e image of Ch^sts being baptised by John and the holy Dove Descending on him, all finely Carv’d white wood w^th out any paint or varnish. They Draw up the Cover by a pully and so Let it down again w^ch shutts Close unless against raines then it swells open as it did now and I believe in y^t Citty its usually annoy’d with wet. This Cathedrall was much frequented by the priests in K James the Seconds tyme and many of their Relicts washed ffaire to be seen, and y^e woman told me the priest use to shew her where Every thing was, and they hoped quickly to be in possession of it, and made many promises how kind they would be to them their retainers to the Church; but blessed be God y^t put a tymely stop to the protestants utter ruin and y^e hopes of the papists. When I was upon the tower I Could see Cambridg and a great prospect of y^e Country w^ch by reason of y^e great rains just before under water, all the ffenny ground being all on a flatt unless it be one side of the town w^ch is all the high dry grounds, into w^ch they drive up their Cattle to secure them in the wet seasons. There is no tradeing in the town, their maine buissiness and dependance is on draining and fencing their Grounds and breeding and grasseing Cattle. There is a fine gate of stone arch’d Like a Church w^ch is Called the abbey, but no remaines of y^e Abby Left, only as its built into houses for the Doctors and Clergy, within which is the palace for the Bishop which is their temporall as well as spiritual prince or Lord. From this Citty I passed over those higher grounds on w^ch was some good Corn but mostly is for grass for their Cattle. You see many pretty Little towns 4 or 5 in view together 2 or 3 miles distant. I went to Sutton, one of them, 6 miles off the Citty, this was a Little Market town; thence to y^e ffenn banks on y^e top of which I Rode at Least two miles w^th y^e ffenns on both sides w^ch now were mostly under water, a vast tract of such grounds w^ch are divided by the Dikes w^th out trees, as those I observ’d before, and these high banks are made to draine and ffence out y^e water from y^e Lower grounds, and so from one banck to another w^ch are once in many acres of Land 100, so that at length it does bear off the water but in the winter it returns, so as they are forced to watch and be all wayes in repaireing those bancks; and Considering y^e vast allowance yearly for draining those fenns at least 3000^£ an. I wonder they have not perfectly runn off y^e water and so Barracadoed it as not to (?) soe it often overflows it againe as it does in many places; but they are all a lazy sort of people and are afraid to do too much. Here I see y^t many swans nests on Little Hillocks of Earth in the wett ground that they Look as if swimming w^th their nests, some were with their young signetts, 3 or 4 in heape w^th their damms hovering over them for their security. This brought me to the Armitage along 8 mile in all from Ely town, and here I Repass’d the River Lin on a wooden Bridge and so went out of y^e jsland of Ely w^ch was in Cambridgshire and Entred into Huntingdonshire.

There was another bridge over a deep place of y^e River under w^ch the boates and barges went, and this bridge was in the water; one must pass thro’ water to it and so beyond it a good way, and y^e Road was so full of holes and quicksands I durst not venture, y^e water Covering them over and a stranger there Cannot Easily Escape y^e danger, tho’ I see the Carryers went y^t way to save the Expense of y^e fferry, but I Rather chose to Ride round and fferry over in a boate 2 pence a horse to a Little town. This river runs along by S^t Ives w^ch was an old monastery and a Rich one. From this fferry its 8 mile to Huntington town; one goes much in sight of y^e River and y^e severall places built on its bancks w^ch Looks well—these are pretty long miles. From Huntington town I went to Stillton 9 mile more, and thence I went to y^e Citty of Peterborough in Lincolnshire w^ch was 5 long miles, the wayes deep and full of Sloughs. It stands very high and to be seen at a great distance y^e towers of y^e minster being all in view—one would think it but a quarter of a mile when you have a mile or two still to it. Y^e whole Citty Looks very well and handsomely built but mostly timber worke: you pass over a Long stone bridg. The Streetes are very clean and neate, well pitch’d and broad as one shall see any where, there is a very spacious market place, a good Cross and town Hall on the top. The Cathedrall is a magnificent building standing in the midst on advanced ground, all stone, y^e walls very neately wrought, the front is in 3 great arches full of Small stone pillars smoothly turn’d and halfe paces as it were in y^e 2 side arches, the head is w^th no high tower but 5 Little ones, 3 of w^ch in the middle are higher and bigger than the other; between Each are 3 peakes Like great Canteliver windows but all finely Carv’d in stone. Ye middle arch is the Entrance w^ch is Exceeding Lofty, as is the Roofe of y^e whole, and so well painted that it appears to be hollow Carving, this seems to be the two remarkable things in y^e whole. Its a spacious place, but one large jsle w^ch is in y^e middle Leading up to y^e quire, where I observed they put y^e seate of any of their deceased dignatorys of y^e Church in Black w^th an Escutcheon: here was one, so now here was y^e Statue of y^e person y^t was last abbott and first Bishop of y^e place; there was also y^e 2 monuments of 2 queens, y^t of Catherine of Spain being Harry y^e 8^ths queen, and also the statute of y^e queen Mary of Scotts that was both beheaded and buried here, and there is also y^e picture of an old man w^th y^e Inscription of y^e whole matter, w^ch was y^e Sexton and dugg both their graves. Here is a pallace for y^e Bishop, of stone Building very neate, and y^e Doctors houses, all in a space Called the Colledg—very neate but nothing Curious. The river Linn washes the town almost round; it Looks like a very jndustrious thriveing town—spinning and knitting amongst y^e ordinary people.

I went thence to Wansford and passed by M^rs S^t Johns house w^ch stands on a hill a mile from y^e town in a fine parke. There was no gate to Peterborough town and as I pass’d y^e Road I saw upon y^e walls of y^e ordinary peoples houses and walls of their out houses, y^e Cow dung plaister’d up to drie in Cakes w^ch they use for fireing, its a very offensive fewell, but y^e Country people use Little Else in these parts. Wansford is 5 mile from Peterborough, where I passed over the Bridge w^ch Entred me into Northhamptonshire, the town being part in that shire w^ch is towards London, y^e other in Lincolnshire w^ch a mile or two farther joyns w^th Rutlandshire at Stamford, w^ch town stands in y^e 3 Countyes, where I Lay at “y^e Swan in Wansford in England,” being a jest on a man makeing hay fell a sleep on a heap of it, and a great storme washed y^e Hay and man into y^e River and Carry’d him to y^e Bridge, where he awoke and knew not where he was, Called to y^e people in y^e grounds and told them he liv’d in a place Called Wansford in England w^ch goes for a jest on y^e men of Wansford to this Day.

Thence I went to Durant 5 miles and passed over a very good stone bridge. Here we are neare y^e quarry’s of stone, and all y^e houses and walls are built of stone as in Glocestershire. This River and bridge Enter’d me into Leicestershire w^ch is a very Rich Country—Red land, good Corne of all sorts and grass, both fields and jnclosures. You see a great way upon their hills y^e bottoms full of Enclosures, woods and different sort of manureing and Herbage, amongst w^ch are placed many little towns w^ch gives great pleasure of y^e travellers to view. Y^e miles are long but hither its pretty hard good way; to Coppingham 5 mile more w^ch is a neate market town. Satturday is their market w^ch is very good affording great quantetyes of Corn, Leather garne and Cattle; such a Concourse of people y^t my Landlord told me he used to have 100 horse set up at his jnn, and there were many publick houses. Here you see very Large fine sheep and very good land, but very deep bad roads. From hence to Leister w^ch they Call but 13 miles, but y^e longest 13 I ever went and y^e most tiresome being full of sloughs, y^t I was near 11 hours going but 25 mile, as they Reckon it, between Wansford and Leicester town—a footman Could have gone much faster than I Could Ride. Their fewell here is as I said but Cowdung or Coale w^ch they are supplyed with out of Warwickshire. Leicester town stands on the Side of a little riseing Ground, tho’ at a distance from y^e adjacent hills it Looks Low, but its a good prospect. It has 4 gates, y^e streetes are pretty Large and well pitch’d, there are five parishes; the Market place is a Large space very handsome w^th a good Market Cross and town hall. Y^e river Sow w^ch runs into y^e river Reeke and both Empts themselves into y^e Trent. Trent to y^e Bow Bridge w^ch is one arch over into y^e Priory, w^ch King Rich^d y^e third pass’d over out of y^e Priory when he went to fight in Bosworth field w^th King Henry the seventh, but the stone he struck his heele at and against, w^th w^ch his head was struck at his return when brought athwart the horse Dead, I Could not see it, being removed, but I saw a piece of his tombstone he Lay in, w^ch was Cut out in exact form for his body to Lye in; y^t remains to be seen at y^e Greyhound in Leaster but is partly broken. There I saw a piece of y^e jury wall as its Called being in arches and was a place where the Jews burnt their sacrifices.

There are two Hospitalls, one for old men y^e other women 24 in number; they are allowed 2^s : 8^d p^r weeke, Candle, fewell oatmeale, butter and salt. I saw the Library w^ch is pretty large, there was two Large Divinity Books the arch-Bishop gave them lately, and the names of all their Benefactors; there was one book all written hand by a scribe before printing was found out, it was a fine vellum; and there was another Book of y^e New Testament in Chineaze Language and Characteur. Y^e town is old timber building Except one or two of Brick. There is Indeed that they Call y^e Newark w^ch is Encompass’d w^th a wall of a good thickness and two great gates w^th towers as the town gates are, in w^ch they keep their arms and amunition. Y^e walls now are only to secure gardens that are made of y^e ruin’d places that were buildings of strength. In this Newark w^ch is a large space of ground are severall good houses some of stone and Brick In which some Lawyers Live ffrank; there is also a new pile of Building all of Brick w^ch is the Guild Hall where y^e assizes are kept twice in y^e yeare and y^e session quarterly.

S^t Martins Church w^ch is one of y^e biggest—there is none very big and none fine—but here I saw Hyricks tomb who was major of y^e town and was married to one wife 52 years in all, w^ch tyme he buried neither man woman or Child tho’ most tymes he had 20 in his family, his age was 79 and his widdow 97 at her death, she saw 142 of her posterity together. They have a water-house and a water mill to turn y^e water in deep Leaden tubbs or Cisterns for their use: there are wells in some streetes to draw water by a hand wheele for y^e Common use of the town.

The major and alderman goes about in procession on Holy Thursday which was y^e day I was there. Here are a great many descenters in this town. This Country as I s^d was all Rich deep land, and they plough their land all w^th ploughs w^th out wheeles as they do in Oxfordshire and other deep lands. From thence I passed to Bosworth 8 miles, and went by a Gentlemans house and thro’ a little parke where the deer were very tame, and passed through Bosworth and over y^e ground where was y^e battle between King Richard y^t Lost his Life by y^e hand of y^e Earle of Richmond afterwards King Henry y^e Seventh, who was Crown’d in this Bosworth field w^th y^e Crown taken off from King Richards head, who being dead was Ignominiously Cast aCross a horse and Carried to Leicester and buried there as a just judgm^t of God for Killing his two nephews and reigning in their stead.

This is a great flatt full of good Enclosures. Near this is Narsby where was y^e great battle fought between King Charles y^e First and y^e parliam^t of England. From thence I went to Fallmouth 7 miles more and so into Warwickshire over a bridge. This is a little market town; thence 3 miles more to Tamworth a neate town built of Brick and mostly new; in sight at its approach it look’d like Litchfield but not a quarter so big a market town, it stands halfe in Warwickshire and halfe in Staffordshire, and so to Litchfield over a large stone bridg that Crosses y^e Tamworth river that gives name to y^e town. To Litchfield is 5 mile more all very good way mostly Gravel; I went it in an hour. This side Entring y^e town I Came by a Large good Almshouse w^ch I saw not before. They have in this town a Custome at Whitsontide y^e Monday and Tuesday Call’d y^e green Bower feast, by which they hold their Charter. The Bailiff and Sheriff assist at y^e Cerimony of dressing up Baby’s w^th garlands of flowers and Carry it in procession through all y^e streetes, and then assemble themselves at y^e Market place and so go on in a solemn procession through the great streete to a hill beyond y^e town where is a Large Bower made w^th greens in w^ch they have their feast. Many lesser Bowers they make about for Conveniency of y^e Whole Company and for selling fruite Sweetemeetes and Gingerbread w^ch is a Chief Entertainment.

Thence I went to Woolsely 7 mile farther, to S^r Charles Woolsley where I staid 6 weekes it being my aunt his Lady who Engaged my stay. His seate stands very finely by y^e river Trent; there is also a moate almost round ye house. Y^e house is old timble building, only a Large parlour and noble stair Case w^th handsome Chambers S^r Charles has new built. It is built round a Court w^th a gate house w^ch Leads to y^e outward Court that has a paved walke, broad stone y^e same as y^e first Court is paved with.

There are green spaces and a fine green banck w^th box or philteroy hedge Cut round. There are very good gardens abundance of fruite of all sorts and y^e ffinest dwarfe trees I ever saw, so thick like a hedge and a huge Compass Every single tree, and very full of fruite of apples, pears and Cherries; there are fine flowers, Heber roses white and yellow; there was a fine Sena trees y^t bears a great Branch of yellow fflowers. Y^e ground Lyes all well about y^e house and a fine park by the End of it, part of w^ch is on a high hill y^e side of w^ch the deer sport themselves, w^ch looks just on y^e house and is wonderfull pleasant: its a Large parke 6 miles round full of stately woods and replenish’d w^th red and fallow deer, one part of it is pretty full of Billberryes w^ch thrive under y^e shade of y^e oakes, its a black berry as big as a large pea and are Ripe about Harvest. There is a very ill Custome amongst them now not to be broken, when they are Ripe. The Country Comes and makes Boothes and a sort of faire y^e outside of y^e parke, and so gather y^e berries and sell y^m about y^e Country. The greenes they Call Wissums and on these wissums the Deer Brouse in y^e winter and on holly of which there is great quantetys. In Kankwood just by there is also great quantety’s of fferne w^ch tho’ it over runs their ground and so spoiles y^e grass where its much, yet y^e usefullness of it renders it necessary to be preserv’d; when it is at its maturity w^ch happens just before harvest or hay tyme, y^e whole Country are Employ’d in Cutting it up and burning it in heapes for y^e sake of y^e ashes w^ch they make fine and Rowle them up in Balls and so sell them or use them all y^e year for washing and scouring, and send much up to London, y^e ashe balls being Easily sent about, without w^ch they would have no ashes in the Country for such uses; for their fewell is altogether Coales w^ch Indeed are very good and plenty, you might have a load for 3 or 4 shillings brought home y^t would serve a poore mans familly y^e winter. Its in great pieces and so Cloven burns light so as the poorer sort works by it and so it serves for heate and light: its very shineing Coale all about this Country tho’ they Complaine they have lost y^e vein of the best sort w^ch they Call Channell Coale and is y^e sort they have still in Wales and Lancashire w^ch burnt much Lighter and less waste, but this I thought to be very good, no better than it. I have in London given 40^s for such a Load.

In this parke is severall ponds w^ch affords good ffish, as does y^e moate and y^e Trent as trout, Eeles, tench, perch &c, the Largest perch I ever saw just Caught and dress’d immediately w^ch Eates in perfection. Y^e hill in y^e parck Called Hartshill is so high that from y^e top of it you see near 20 miles round, and shews all y^e Country w^ch in this part of Staffordshire is full of woods and jnclosures and good land, Except y^e Kanck-wood w^ch is but a barren heath ground, but good wood—its fine for Hawking in y^e heath. Its full of little Brookes and Rivulets w^ch abounds with Crawfish and they were the sweetest and Largest I have seen any where. From hence to Stafford town is 5 mile—you go by y^e banck of y^e Trent most of y^e way and passing over two Rivers on stone bridges, Called y^e Sore and the Pink w^ch both Empt themselves into y^e Trent and so Enter y^e town through a gate. Its an old built town, timber and plaister pretty much, in Long peaked Rooffes of tileing; 3 gates to the town—there was another w^ch Leads to the Castle w^ch now is ruinated, and only remaines on a hill the fortification trenches y^t are grown over w^th green. Y^e streetes are pretty Large and well pitched; a broad space for y^e market place Wherein is a good Market house on stone pillars w^th a handsome town hall over it—some of the houses are pretty good. This Country is much for Entertainments, in every house you must Eate and drinke.

From thence back to Woolsley againe 5 miles, from thence to Heywood parke w^ch was 2 mile where Lived a Daughter of my aunt Woolsley—marryed M^r Hedgewood—a little neate box they Live in.

From thence back againe 2 miles. To the Kank wood is pleasant Rideing, its 20 mile long belongs to y^e Lord Paget, there are 4 lodges; in it a great deale of wood and deer and goates. I went to Ffurnes Coppice w^ch is 4 mile—on it a fine Covert of tall trees on a hill and a mile farther was a fine wood Called Hedgford; Poole a quarter of a mile long full of good fish; thence home 5 mile. Another day I went to Stiles Coppice 3 mile off w^ch is on a high hill and a fine tufft of trees, it Looks but Little at a distance but is a fine Covert for y^e sheep and Cattle: I went quite round it from whence Could see y^e Country a good distance and see into 7 Countys together, Warwickshire, Leicestershire Glocestershire Derbyshire Staffordshire Shropshire and Cheshire; so home againe by Ridgly a mile aboute so it was 4 mile.

Another day I went to Boudezworth the Lord Pagets house 4 mile off, and passed by y^e Coale pitts where they were digging: they draw up the Coale in baskets with a Little wheele or Windlass like a well—its very good.

Lord Paget’s house is old Brick built, y^e ffront is uniforme and very handsome with towers, but there is no good roome but a Long gallery thats worth seeing: its a fine parke; just by it is a high hill on w^ch is the remaines of an old ffortification, they Call it the Castle wall, its of very great antiquity but now grown over w^th grass; from thence the prospect of the Country is great. The parke is of Large Extent and some of those pitts are in it—y^e Channell Coales, but y^e water has over flow’d some of them and spoyl’d their digging; thence I went home againe 4 miles—Another day I went to Panckeridge race over y^e Kankwood 7 mile, where were most of y^e Gentlemen and Ladies of the Country, severall Coaches and six horses, Indeed y^e miles are Long and y^e wayes bad in the winter that obliges them to drive more horses; these were persons of good Estates also. There appear’d only one horse to run for y^e plaite which was a salver; thence to Woolesley again 7 mile more. Its a fine Country here about for Rideing one has a pleaseing prospect Every way Especially on any advanc’d ground.

I went to Brinsy Coppice w^ch was 4 mile, thence Could see towards Shrewsbury and y^e high hill the Reekee, and in a Cleare day Could see something of Chester, and so home againe 4 mile more. Another day I went upon Jtching hill 1 mile w^ch is a sort of Rock, but y^e stone is of a Red Coullour and looks Like a sandy stone by its Moldring, but they tell me when its wrought in a wall and have been season’d w^th y^e weather it grows very hard and serviceable in building. From thence I went a Compass round to Heywood parke 4 mile off and yⁿ home againe 2 miles; and another day I went the same tour about to Heywood parke and back w^ch was 6 mile more. While I stay’d at Woolsley I went directly to Heywood parke above what I mentioned before and returned home w^ch was in all 8 miles, and another day I went to a poole in the Kanckwood 3 mile to ffish and from thence to Heywood parke thro’ a very fine Coppice of trees on a hanging brow of a hill w^ch Look’d very fine, and so home 2 mile more. I name y^e number of miles I went only to see y^e whole accō of miles I travell’d this yeare. These Coppices there are many of them w^ch is a good shelter for y^e Cattle.

Another journey to Darby town from Woolsley by Colton and Blithbery 3 mile, thence to Yoxwell 3 mile over Nedwood forest of y^e King, w^ch is 40 mile in Extent, all y^e way you have a fine prospect of y^e Country, Enclosed good lands, admirable Corne of all sorts, good grass: I went in sight of Tetbery Castle w^ch is y^e Kings—a great ffortification, but all decay’d—here 4 mile more and there it was that I pass y^e river Dove on a stone Bridge Called Dovebridge w^ch Enters me into Darbyshire and thence its 8 mile more to Darby town.

Darby town Lies down in a bottom built all of brick or for y^e most part; in it are 5 Churches built of stone y^e biggest of w^ch I was in, y^e tower was finely Carv’d full of niches and Pedistals where on Statues had been set, but nothing worth notice in y^e jnside except a monument w^ch was over y^e vault of y^e Duke of Devonshire, on w^ch stands 2 Effigees at length all of white marble y^e Earle and his Countess of Devonshire w^th an arch or Cannopy of Stone over their heads; this is rail’d in w^th Iron gates. There is also another statue of marble painted and Gilded lying at length w^ch is also railed in. Y^e River Derwent runns by the town and turns many mills, and y^e water Engine w^ch turns y^e water into y^e pipes that serves y^e town, y^e same wheele grinds also, but they do it for a half penny a strike w^ch is the same measure as our Bushill. At this Engine they Can grind if its never so high a flood, w^ch hinders all y^e other from working at y^e flood, they are quite Choaked up, but this they Can set higher or lower just as the water is. There are bays w^ch they make w^th stones to keep the water to run to y^e mill and thence it falls againe into y^e Derwent; there is also a fine stone Conduit in the Market place, w^ch is very spacious, well pitch’d a good Market Cross. This is a dear place for strangers notwithstanding y^e plentyfullness of all provision. My Dinner Cost me 5^s and 8^d, only 2 servant men w^th me and I had but a shoulder of mutton and bread and beer.

Here they mak great quantetys of gloves, I did not observe or Learn any other trade or Manufacture, they had only shops of all sorts of things. They Carry much of their Carriages on sledges to secure their pitching in the streetes. Thence I went to Chartly 6 mile Lord Fferrers, and thence Bradby Lord Chesterfields, and passed by a fine parke of some Gentlemans in w^ch was a summer house on y^e side of y^e hill amongst fine tall trees w^ch Look’d very well, and on y^e Right hand I turned up to y^e Earle of Chesterfields parke full of fine Rows of trees running up y^e avenue to y^e house. One Enters an outward Court and drives round a Little pond like a ditch all pav’d w^th stone, or great basin of stone, in which were two swans swimming about in y^t little Compass; y^e gates are all jron barrs and the whole front of y^e house open jron pallasadoe spikes in a Compass round Like a half moone. Answerable to y^t beyond y^e stable yard is another such a demy Circle of open pallasadoe, y^t lets you out to y^e prospect of y^e grounds beyond, full of regular Rows of trees. Y^e house has a visto quite thro’ by a glass bellcony door into y^e gardens, and so to y^e parke beyond on y^t side. Y^e front have something surpriseing in it; its all of free stone w^ch is dipt in oyle that adds a varnish to its Lustre as well as security to its foundation. Y^e Roofe is not flatt as our Modern buildings so y^e garret windows Come out on y^e tileing w^ch is all flatt None of y^e windows are sashes which in my opinion is y^e only thing it wants to render it a Compleate building: its halfe a roman H. There is an ascent of 5 or 6 steps all stone to y^e gates, and so you proceed on a broad paved walke w^ch is divided by a Cross walke of y^e same towards y^e upper End; thence y^e ascent by as many more stone steps into a noble hall y^t has a Row of white marble pillars at y^e upper End. Y^e middle a Little roome w^th a marble table in the middle w^ch is y^e Balcony into y^e Garden, but y^ts without Steps down into y^e Garden. From these Rows of Pillars on y^e Right hand runs a passage to y^e Servants roome and all the offices, and at y^e End is a Chappell w^ch was very neate. Over y^e alter is a large ovall of Glass of y^e sort of Private glass used in Windows to obscure y^e Sight from without, but hinders not y^e Light w^th inside; this Look’d pretty as being particular and uncomon.

There was a little organ and Closets for y^e Lord and Ladies to sitt in. From y^e hall on the left hand Enters into a Large roome w^th a billiard table, from thence into a Large parlour and 2 drawing-roomes,—there was a good dineing roome. Above, y^e drawing Roome had Company in it, y^e Earle having just marry’d his Eldest daughter Lady Mary to one M^r Cooke a Gentleman of a good Estate hard by, so there was Company to wishe her joy; but I was in severall bed Chambers, one had a Crimson damaske bed, y^e other Crimson velvet set upon halfe paces: this best was y^e bride Chamber w^ch used to be Call’d y^e Silver roome where y^e stands, table, and fire utensills were all massy silver, but when plaite was in nomination to pay a tax, y^e Earle of Chesterfield sold it all and y^e plaite of y^e house, so that when y^e table was spread I saw only spoones, salts and forks and y^e side board plaite, noe plaites or dishes and but few salvers. Ye pictures was all burnt by a fire and so there are only bare walls. One Roome was painted over head—y^e others frettwork, but y^t w^ch is most admired, and justly so to be by all persons, and Excite their Curiosity to Come and see is y^e gardens and waterworks. Out of y^e Billiard Roome y^e first was with Gravell walks, and a large fountaine in the middle with flower potts and Greens set Round y^e Brimm of y^e fountaines that are paved w^th stone. You see but one garden at a tyme. The Pipes in y^e fountaines play very finely, some of a great height, some fflushes y^e water about; then you Come to a descent of severall steps w^ch discovers anoth^r fine garden w^th fountaines playing through pipes besett on y^e branches w^th all sort of Greens and flower trees, dwarfe honeysuckles in a Round tuff growing upright, and all sorts of flower trees and greens finely Cutt and Exactly kept. In one garden there are 3 fountaines wherein stands great statues; Each side on their pedistalls is a dial one for y^e Sun y^e other a Clock w^ch by y^e water worke is moved and strikes y^e hours, and Chimes y^e quarters, and when they please play Lilibolaro on y^e Chimes: all this I heard when I was there. On one side of this garden is a half Compass w^th a breast wall on w^ch are high jron pallisadoes divided with severall Pillars, stone with Images on their tops about 2 yards distance; this opens to view y^e parke and a sort of Cannall or pond w^ch is in it of a good bigness. Beyond this Garden is a Row of orange and Lemon trees set in y^e ground, of a man’s height and pretty big, full of flowers and some Large fruit almost Ripe: this has a pent house over it w^ch is Cover’d up very Close in the winter. This Leads on to a great wilderness and Just by it is another Square w^th a fountaine whose brim is deck’d with flower potts full of flowers and all sorts of greens; on Either side is 2 or 3 rows of orange and Lemon trees in boxes one below another in growth.

Just against this is a wall Cover’d over w^th Lawrell finely Cutt, and also in y^e middle is an arch, and on Either side stone staires ascends it w^ch terminate in a sort of half pace all Cover’d over w^th Lawrell, and this Enters a doore into another Garden through a little garden house. This also has a fine fountaine Like y^e others, only as most of y^e others was green walks this was Gravell, so was the garden on y^e Right side of y^e house. Ye front Garden w^ch has y^e Largest fountaine has also a fine Green house and very fine flowers, and y^e beds and borders are Cut in severall formes; y^e Greens are very fine and y^e hedges Cutt in severall formes; there was one tree not much unlike y^e Cyprus green but y^e branches were more spread and of a Little yellower green, y^e Barke of y^e Limbs yellow—it was y^e Cedar of Lebonus. There was also fine strip’d stocks, Double Like a Rose. There was a Large Ewe tree in y^e middle of one Garden Cut in forms, fine ffirrs and Cyprus and ffilleroy of w^ch some was striped Like silver, white, others yellow Like Gold, w^ch gave them their different names, and fine gilded and striped Hollys.

There was one green in a pott Call’d S^t John y^e baptists herb, it was full of many Leaves and y^e Coullour not much unlike the green they Call Solomons Seale but longer and bigger Leaves; its an annual plant. Here just by y^e wilderness is y^e tulip tree w^ch runns up of a great height and y^e flower is on y^e top; it flowers in August. There is a great avery of Birds w^ch stands Like a sumer house open; there is also many Close averys of Birds and severall Green shady walks and Close arbours. There are very fine woodbines grows like tuffs all in flower Red and white. There is some of y^e fountaines that have figures in them that throws up water a greate height—a Cascade of water.

Then I returned into y^e hall and so into a Coole roome in w^ch was a fountaine where I dranke a Glass of wine and so proceeded. This was 3 miles from Chartry, thence through a fine visto or Glide of trees w^ch runs along y^e parke and so to Burton on y^e Trent 2 long miles. This is a pretty large town; here is a very long stone bridge over y^e Trent: the Streetes are very well pitch’d and some very broad.

Thence over Nedwood fforest 6 mile, and thence to Yoxsell, w^ch is 6 mile more to Woolsley and they are all Long miles; then I went againe to Stafford town 5 miles and from thence to Jnstree M^r Thetwins—its bad way. You go by S^t Thomas’s w^ch was some old abbey—its still a good house.

Going along y^e side of y^e hill gives a great view of y^e Country that is mostly jnclosures we passed between two parkes, y^e one is Lord astons, and goe in sight of Tixall hall w^ch is a good house and Looks handsomely of stone building: the other was M^r Thetwins parke w^ch has fine Rows of trees—ffirrs Scots and Noroway and y^e picanther—the ffront lookes nobly. Noe flatt Roofed houses in this Country but much in windows. Two Large bow windows on Each side runns up y^e whole building, y^e middle the same besides much flatt window between, so that y^e whole is Little besides window. Its built brick and stone, the part to y^e garden ward is new building of y^e new fashion and sash windows. Y^e Court is 2 or 5 stepps up w^th open jron pallasadoes y^e breadth of y^e house and a broad paved walk w^ch Leads up to y^e doore in the Middle. Y^e visto is quite through y^e house to y^e gardens and through a long walke of trees of a mile through the parke to a Lodge or summer house at y^e End, w^ch Lookes very finely, it being a Riseing ground up to y^e parke. There is a Crosse paved walke in y^e Court w^ch Leads to a little house on Each End like summer houses, w^th towers and balls on y^e top; y^e one Leads through to y^e Churchyard w^ch is planted w^th Rows of Ewe trees very uniforme and Cutt neately. Y^e Church is new and very handsome, good frettworke on y^e top, the wood worke well Carv’d, its seates good wanscoate and with locks.

In the Chancell are two monuments of Marble, one all white, y^e other white with a border Black, and with white pillars; the middle at y^e bottom is alabaster. The pillars of y^e Church is made of y^e Red stone w^ch is plenty in this Country and they are all polished over; the ffront is all white marble; stem y^e same veined bleu, y^e foot is black, y^e Cover is wood Carv’d very well. The porch is very high on w^ch is a dyal, it almost breakes ones neck to Looke up at it for y^t y^e tower in w^ch are 5 bells. There is just against this a garden.