From the physical character of Peru, it is evident that inland communication and traffic is of extraordinary difficulty. The countries previously mentioned and most of those to follow have rivers by which access to the interior may be gained. In Colombia the Pacific coast barrier is not half so high, and another way is open from the Caribbean. Venezuela presents several doorways, Ecuador also; but in Peru, entrance by navigable rivers would be to journey over 2000 miles from Pará in Brazil at the mouth of the Amazon, then arriving only at the back door, remote indeed from the busy civilized life at the front. Some few do come in and go out that way, but not many.
Peru’s front is happily 1200-1300 miles long, but then a wall! and in places not one only; back of that another and another; between each two a deep, deep hollow; climbs, up and down, up and down, to gain the fertile montaña; or, in the central section, where it might seem easy going after having surmounted the high wall to the lofty plateau, there are hills if not dales, with few level spots. Do not imagine that a table-land is like a table! The country is rolling where not mountainous; nor is that all. The various rivers that wind about flowing now south now north, southeast and northwest, with branches from any direction, these are not simple little rivers, a few or many feet deep, which require merely an ordinary bridge; but whether deep or shallow they are liable to be and generally are at the bottom of a cañon 300 or 3000 feet deep, the top of which may be a mile or two across. For a railway to descend to such depths and climb up the other side, not once but the many times needful for a road traversing the length of Peru is for a sparsely inhabited country, governmentally poor, quite impossible. Hence the slowness of Peru’s development despite its wonderful riches.
When some years ago the Pan American Railway from New York to Buenos Aires was projected, investigation was made of practicable routes by the United States Government. The way in Ecuador is plain and in Colombia there is little choice; but in Peru the question of highland, low coast, or far interior was to be solved. The coast seemed less desirable as along here one could go by water. Moreover, the Maritime Cordillera for a long distance is so near the sea with so many spurs coming down to the coast, or as in Southern Peru a bluff several hundred or thousand feet high with its feet in the sea is so cut every little way by one of those 58 streams in a very deep cañon, that it was not more inviting than the plateau region above, where the road would be much more serviceable. Plateau was the decision; but for the Great War, money might soon be forthcoming; as it is, long delay is probable before the road is completed. As for inland transportation therefore, it may be said that it is carried on mainly by sea, which is no joke but stern reality; accordingly coast service is well provided.
British, Chilian, Peruvian, formerly German, and now American steamers sail along the coast, some express from Panamá, calling at Callao and Mollendo only; others, express also, call at the other primary ports, Paita, Etén, Pacasmayo, Salaverry, Pisco, and Ilo; still others, caletero, call at the 20 minor ports also. From many of these ports, as we have seen, railways extend some distance into the interior, generally as far as they can go without taking a stiff grade. Beyond the termini and in some cases directly from the ports, freight is carried by mules, burros, or llamas, though in but few places do the latter come down to the sea, their use being confined chiefly to the region of the sierra. In the old Inca days the fleet footed Indians sped over the narrow trails, often carrying heavy burdens. Horses were introduced by the Spaniards; riding is universal, as almost everywhere it is the only means of travel, from the coast to the mountain region and within that section; roads aside from bridle trails are almost non existent. Even in the thickly settled and rich Huailas Valley there was not a wheeled vehicle in 1908; there is no way by which they could be carried in except in pieces. The iron horse, however, within the last half century has begun to make its way.
Callao. Although Peru has other primary ports which should be visited by commercial men, Callao and Lima are the chief centre of commerce for the greater part of the country. Both cities are of course provided with good electric car service, lights, and telephones; they are connected by an electric and a steam railway, the latter, a part of the Central Railway of Peru, which climbs to the interior heights. The double track electric road on a broad boulevard, the most popular connection between the two cities, makes the ride in 28 minutes. The site of the port, Callao, population 35,000, was chosen with discretion, as except for Chimbote it has the best harbor below Panamá. It ranks in traffic as the fourth American port on the entire Pacific, following Seattle, San Francisco, and Valparaiso. Callao has been distinguished as the only port south of Panamá with docks accessible to large ships, though, as the accommodations are inadequate, passing coastal steamers usually anchor half a mile away, employing lighters for cargo; recently, steam launches serve passengers, heavy baggage going in row boats. A floating dry dock receives ships of 8000 tons.
The Central Railway. In spite of the enormous difficulties of making a roadbed up a steep cañon or on the face of a bluff, bridging torrents, and tunneling side buttresses and mountain ranges, two railroads, both monuments of skill and perseverance, climb from the coast to the plateau, the Central, and the Southern Railways of Peru. The first, a standard gauge line from Callao begun in 1870 by the American financier, Henry Meiggs, was in 1876 completed as far as Chicla, 88 miles. On account of troubles resulting from the Chilian war, it did not reach Oroya, long the terminus, till 1893. The road follows up the Rimac Valley, which, however, is so steep and narrow that detours into side valleys are necessary, as into the Verrugas, which is crossed by a bridge 225 feet high, one of 67 bridges on the journey. Many curves, tunnels, and V’s are also needed to gain in 7¹⁄₂ hours, with no more than a 4 per cent grade, an elevation of 15,665 feet at a distance from the sea in a straight line of less than 100 miles. Frequently the floor of the cañon has room only for the rushing stream, and the road passes high up on the slope or cliff, at one point, 575 feet, or through one of the 57 tunnels. Some of the cliffs are more than one third of a mile in perpendicular height. The road is considered in some respects the most wonderful of the world’s railways. A branch 10 miles long from Ticlio to Morococha, reaching an altitude of 15,865 feet, a trifle above that of Mont Blanc, is absolutely the highest railway in the world. At Ticlio, the highest point of the main line, is entered the Galera tunnel, three quarters of a mile long, which cuts through the continental divide. The road then descends to Oroya, altitude 12,178 feet. In taking the trip for pleasure or business one not absolutely sure of the soundness of his heart should have it examined, or at least should stop over two days at Matucana, 7788 feet, where there is a fairly comfortable hotel. Any one is liable to suffer somewhat from soroche, which may be avoided by the stop-over. In general persons of good constitution, not too full blooded, will be troubled only by a headache, perhaps accompanied by nausea, and those who are careful to avoid rapid walking or over exertion of any kind for a day or two after arrival above, and who do not overeat before setting out on the journey or afterwards may suffer no inconvenience whatever. No liquor of any kind should be used except in collapse from heart failure. Ammonia is desirable in case of headache.
From Oroya, terminus of the direct line, there are branches to the north and south over the plateau. To reach the montaña interior, which is more accessible here than from any other point in Peru, one may go by automobile over another range a thousand feet above, and beyond this, down, down, down into the montaña. Tarma at 10,000 feet has a delightful climate, and here are trees, perhaps the first seen in Peru, growing as it were of their own accord. The picturesque cañon below is lined with verdure, here and there are entrances to side valleys. Tunnels and romantic swinging bridges formerly lent variety to the ride. The new automobile road opens up a rich and delightfully attractive country. La Merced, altitude 3000 feet, is quite a little town with a pleasant summer climate.
A short distance farther is the Perené, a coffee plantation, at 2500 feet, belonging to the Peruvian Corporation. The estate of 5,000,000 acres is not half cultivated, though 1¹⁄₂ million coffee trees had been planted in 1903. At this altitude the country is still in the foothills of the Andes with steep slopes on every hand, a narrow way only extending along the river bank. The Perené is a considerable stream easily navigable, an affluent of the Tambo, which flows into the Ucayali; but the stream goes south a long distance around, and through a region inhabited by savage Indians. It is therefore not used. The Chunchi Indians living close by are fine looking people and friendly, sometimes working on the plantation. This plantation is on the main and mail route from Lima to Iquitos, capital of Loreto, to which with good luck a journey may be made in 15 days. Seven days are spent between Oroya and Puerto Jessup, then one in canoe to Puerto Bermudez, and 5 or 6 in steam launch to Iquitos, where a steamer may be taken to Manaos, Pará, or New York.
A branch railway line, American owned, built by the Cerro de Pasco Copper Company, extends north from Oroya to Cerro de Pasco, about 90 miles over a hilly country, past Lake Junín. Along the way many Quichua Indians are seen, the chief population of the plateau region. Cerro de Pasco, the terminus of the road from Oroya, is a town of 15,000 population at an altitude of 14,300 feet. A branch railway leads to Goyllarisquisga, 26 miles, another to Quishuarcancha, 11 miles, to their coal properties.
Another branch or a continuation of the Central Railway runs south on the plateau in the valley of the Jauja River past a city of that name, population 3000, altitude 11,050 feet, a resort for consumptives for whom the coast is too damp. Seventy-eight miles from Oroya at Huancayo, population 6000, the road halted some years, but lately building has recommenced and the road is probably open some miles farther. Construction is proceeding in the direction of Ayacucho to continue from there to Cuzco. By the time this is accomplished a long stretch of the Pan American Road will be completed, probably from the Callejón de Huailas to Lake Titicaca, but the crossing of three cañons, one 3000 feet deep, makes this an expensive job.
The Southern Railway of Peru, also planned and partly constructed by Henry Meiggs before he commenced the Central, begins at the port of Mollendo; after a few miles along the beach it climbs the high bluff on the side of projecting buttresses, winding about till it reaches the edge of the desert plateau 3000 feet above. Then it proceeds on the almost imperceptibly inclined desert, presently along the edge of the Vitor Valley, 107 miles, to the beautifully situated Arequipa, population 50,000, altitude 7550 feet.
The city is on the lower slope of El Misti, partly in the valley of the Chili River which flows between Misti, 19,200 feet, and Chachani a little higher. Arequipa has a fine cathedral, and cultured society, but poor hotels. A good one, opened prematurely some years ago, unfortunately failed; it would be a great success now. In the crater of Misti are pure sulphur crystals, with some of which I once filled my pocket; but other sources are more accessible. Much business is transacted in the city, this being the centre of commerce for Southern Peru, an immense district with many towns and mining centres on and off the railroad. At least one night must be spent here on the way up, and several days are desirable both for business and to become proof against soroche. The city is the site of the machine shops for the railway, which with 526 miles of track is the longest in the Republic. From Vitor between Mollendo and Arequipa an automobile road is to be constructed to the Majes Valley and Chuquibamba.
From Arequipa there are semi- or tri-weekly trains to Cuzco and Puno. The road winds around the desert slopes of Chachani to the higher land beyond. From the divide, 14,688 feet, the descent is gradual to Puno on the shore of Lake Titicaca, 219 miles from Arequipa.
At Juliaca, 30 miles before Puno, the line branches north towards Cuzco, 210 miles, a journey of a day and a half. Sleeping cars run from Arequipa. The highest point on the north division is 14,153 feet. Cuzco itself is at an altitude of 11,445 feet. The place, almost surrounded by hills, has a more genial climate than might be expected at this altitude. The appearance of the country is very different from that near Cerro de Pasco with more green and a milder atmosphere. Cuzco is said once to have had a population of 400,000, instead of the present 30,000. Some progress has been made since railway connection was established in 1908; a decent hotel, the Pullman, has superseded the apologies for one then available. The population is chiefly Indian, and many come in from the surrounding country to the markets. The Department, a very rich but undeveloped section, is on the border where Quichuas and Aymarás mingle.
From the port of Puno, on the shore of Lake Titicaca, altitude 12,500 feet, there is, in connection with the railway, steamboat service (an all night journey) to Guaqui, at the south end of the lake. Here is railroad connection for La Paz, a three hours ride, all under the management of the Peruvian Corporation, a British company which controls also the Central Railway and most of the short lines from the various ports; the Corporation has further among other concessions one for the export of guano.
It is evident that the railways of this great country which nowhere touch the vast montaña region and which leave destitute most of the towns of the sierra district, are totally inadequate for its development. However delightful the climate or rich the country in agricultural or mineral resources, few persons in the present age will settle in regions remote from cities in time if not in distance, and where the interchange of products is almost impossible for lack of means of transportation. The leaders of the Government are well aware of this fact and are doing their utmost to promote railway development, both through their own initiative and by their willingness to grant favorable terms and, to some extent, guaranteed concessions to foreign capitalists. The importance of connecting the coast and sierra cities, and these with the Amazon Basin and river transportation to the Atlantic is perfectly apparent. The ideal is for three or four railways serving different sections to extend from coast ports up over the mountains down to the navigable waters of the Amazon affluents, and that such roads should be connected by a north and south line in the sierra country as a part of the great Pan American system long ago planned. Branches would diverge from all of these lines, thus opening up large mineral deposits for operation, and the rich agricultural lands of the montaña for settlement and commerce.
For a long time several routes have been under discussion and some concessions have been granted, which mismanagement or the difficulty of getting capitalists to invest in so remote a field have rendered abortive. Therefore there is still discussion; and opportunities for construction are open.
Beginning at the north the first cross line proposed is that in the Department Piura, continuing the road from the good port of Paita to Puerto Molendez, Calantura, or Limón, on the Marañon River below the Pongo de Manserriche. This plan has the great advantage of crossing the Andes at its lowest point, 6600 feet. An important consideration is that it would make practicable the export from Paita of rubber which is now carried from Iquitos by way of the Amazon and Pará; the far shorter journey by sea from Paita to New York, easily made within ten days, would more than counterbalance the rail freight from the river port 400 miles to Paita. It would surely be a better route for business men and offers other advantages; among these access to coal and iron mines en route.
Another transcontinental route proposed is from some point connected with the Central Railway which has already surmounted the divide. A route on which much money has been spent for engineering investigation, surveys, and otherwise is from Cerro de Pasco or Goyllarisquisga to Pucalpa or some other point on the Ucayali. This central road for political reasons seems extremely desirable. It would open up the fine grazing lands of the Pampa Sacramento, and rich alluvial gold deposits in or on several streams, as well as the forest and rubber country. Another suggestion is to continue the road directly east from Oroya down to the Perené River and to Puerto Wertheman; a better may be to build 175 miles from Matahuasi, a station on the Oroya-Huancayo Railway, to Jesus Marie on the Ené River near the mouth of the Pangoa, where 12 feet of water would permit of commerce by large steamers by way of the Tambo and Ucayali.
One important cross route would naturally be by the Southern Railway, from a point on the Cuzco branch, Tirapata, Urcos, or Cuzco, the earlier plans looking to a connection with the Madre de Dios River. But as this route would necessitate a long roundabout journey, as well as a passage through Bolivia and freightage on the Madeira-Mamoré Railway, the Government has recently undertaken for itself a line from Cuzco to Santa Ana on the Urubamba, by which the journey is greatly shortened and will be wholly within the Republic as far as Brazil, following down the Urubamba and Ucayali to the Amazon and Iquitos. The drawback to this route is that only very light draught steamers can come up to Santa Ana at any season of the year.
Lines quoted as under construction by the Peruvian Government in 1919 are that from Chimbote up the Huailas Valley to Recuay, already referred to, which when completed will be immediately profitable, the continuation of the road from Huancayo to Cuzco, now open 30 miles from the former city; and the Cuzco to Santa Ana just mentioned. A short line recently opened from Lima to Lurín, crossing the Pachacamac River, brings two fertile valleys with their fruit and vegetables into close connection with the capital. Lurín is but 16 miles from the suburb Chorillos, which for some years has had railway service. The ancient pre-Inca ruins at Pachacamac are now easily accessible.
The Longitudinal or Pan American Railway, crossing all the others, would come in at the north from Cuenca and Loja in Ecuador, continuing to Huancabamba, Jaen, and Cajamarca in that Department, thence down the valley to the Santa River, there joining the railway to Recuay, which will be prolonged to Goyllarisquisga. By this time the connection will be complete to Cuzco, and so to La Paz, La Quiaca, and Buenos Aires.