LONDON:
PRINTED BY SCHULZE AND CO., 13, POLAND STREET.
| CHAPTER I. | |
| The Palaces of Brussels—Palace of the Prince of Orange—Embarrassment of the government respecting it—Description of the interior—Chambers of the Belgian legislature—Palais de la Nation—Constitution of Belgium—Variable franchise—Removal of the picture of Waterloo—The Park—Singular scenes of the revolution—Curious account of the adventures of an English party at the Hôtel de Bellevue during the riots at Brussels—Works of the Société du Renard at Brussels—The road to Antwerp—Villas—Old châteaux—House of Rubens and Teniers—The village of Vieux Dieux—Appearance of the country—The tower of the cathedral—Fortifications—Narrow streets—Palace of Napoleon—The houses—History of Antwerp—Festival of the ladies’ eve—Immense commerce in the sixteenth century—Closing of the Scheldt in 1648—Projects of Napoleon for Antwerp—Arsenal and locks—Trade from 1815 to 1830—Affected by the revolution—Transit trade of Belgium—Absurd system of competition with Holland—Rubens—Fêtes in his honour—Modern painters—Verboeckhoven—The Museum—Rubens’ genius—The Crucifixion—The adoration of the Magi—Vandyke—The cathedral—View from the tower—Crucifix made from the statue of Alva—Monument of Quentin Metsys—Interior of the church—Rubens’ Descent from the Cross—The tomb of Rubens in the Church of St. Jacques—Church of St. Paul—The Calvary and Purgatory—Aspect of a Roman Catholic place of worship—A lady of Antwerp at vespers—St. Andrews’ Church—Superb pulpit—Monument to Mary Queen of Scotland—Dinner with M. David—Want of carpets in continental houses—The Citadel—Extraordinary scene—General Chassé—The patriot army—The singular history of its three commanders—The bombardment—Places at the theatre to see the siege. | 1 |
| CHAPTER II. | |
| Quays of Antwerp—Peculiar mode of training young trees—The Scheldt—The flying bridge of Napoleon—Story of Van Speyk—Polder at the Tête de Flandres—Its catastrophe in 1837—Zwyndrecht—Different professions of the Belgian saints—Story of the curate of St. Joachim—Beveren—St. Nicholas—Dense population—A market—Flemish ballad-singers—Ancient drama of Flanders—Tamise—Ruinous condition of the cotton trade in Belgium since the revolution—Its causes—Inability of the government to afford relief—Diminution of exports since 1833—Remarkable petition of the trade to the legislature—Remedies suggested by them—Impracticability of any commercial union with France—Or the Zoll-Verein—Dendermonde—Siege by the Duke of Marlborough—Description of its present state—Its manufactures—Mechlin—Curious old city—The Archbishop Sterckx—A political prelate—Mechlin lace—Flax—The Cathedral of St. Romoald—The tower—Carillon—Immense bells—The corporation of Mechlin—The tomb of the Bertholdi—Van Eyck’s paintings—Vandyke’s Crucifixion—Superiority of Rubens in composition—Church of Notre-Dame—“The miraculous draught of fishes”—Favourite paintings of Rubens in the Church of St. John—Hôtel de St. Jaques. | 80 |
| CHAPTER III. | |
| Scenery around Louvain—The Belgian railroad system—Peculiar adaptation of the country—Policy of Government interference in their construction—The average cost per mile—Causes of the difference in outlay between Belgium and England—Cheap rates of travelling in Belgium—Accidents—Success not yet decided—Louvain—Its extent—THE UNIVERSITY OF LOUVAIN—Its former fame—Its present condition—The bierre de Louvain—The great brewery—Its processes—Amazing consumption of beer in Belgium—Its different characters—The Hôtel de Ville—Its pictures—Gallery of M. Vanderschreick—The collegiate church of St. Pierre—Legend of Saint Margaret of Louvain—Tomb of Justus Lipsius—Flight of the “braves Belges” at Louvain in 1832—Singular change in the character of the people for courage—The present soldiery—Terveuren—The park and palace of the Prince of Orange—The Forest of Soigné—WATERLOO—The Belgic Lion—Its injury to the field—Irish anecdote—Bravery of the Irish troops at Waterloo—Hougemont—The orchard—Relics of the fight—The Duke of Wellington’s estate—No monument to him on the field—The Duke of Marlborough—La Belle Alliance—Quatre Bras—The woods cut down—Beautiful scenery of the Meuse and the Sambre—Namur—My Uncle Toby—The citadel—Don John of Austria—The cathedral—The church of St. Loup—The trade in cutlery—THE DESCENT OF THE MEUSE—Its beauty and its wealth—Andennes—History of Mr. Cockerill—His influence on the manufactures of Belgium—His print-works at Andennes—Ruined by the revolution—The manufacture of paper in Belgium—Huy. | 117 |
| CHAPTER IV. | |
| Huy—The citadel—Churches—The mineral and coal districts of Belgium—Prosperity of coal mines—Quantity produced in Belgium compared with other countries—Its price at Ghent, Brussels, and Antwerp—Panic in 1836 for the exhaustion of coal in Belgium—Scenery of the Meuse—Remarkable individuals born in its vicinity—Chateaux of Aigrement and Chokier—Seraing—Immense extent of the works—Its produce within its own walls—History of the establishment—Palace of the Prince Bishops of Liege—Encouraged by the King of Holland—The building—Huge steam engine—Surprising extent of the operations carried on—Iron works—Halls for construction of machines—Vast numbers of workmen employed—Its exports—Mr. John Cockerill—Extent of his speculations—Development of Seraing attributable to them—Its future prospects—Policy of England in regard to the export of machinery—Importation of machinery into Belgium—Road to Liege—Liege—No sympathy with its history—Turbulent and unamiable character of its ancient populace—Prince Bishop declares war upon France—Share of the Liegois in the revolution of 1830—Her threatened attack upon Seraing—The town—Manufacture of fire-arms and cannon—A flax mill—Its churches poor—The Palais de Justice—University—Scenery of the Vesdre—The railroad—Chaud-fontaine—Spa—Deserted—Verviers—The town—Conduct during the revolution—The woollen trade of Belgium—Want of native wool—Extent and decline of the trade—Its causes—Statement of M. Briavionne—Joint Stock Companies in Belgium—Account of two at Verviers—The mania for speculation—Its failure—The Prussian frontier—Limbourg—Prospects of Belgium—Her bad condition—Policy of the King of Holland—That of the present government—Present aspect of their trade—Impossibility of competing with England—Character of the Belgian mechanics—Ruinous effects of the “Repeal of the Union.” | 166 |
| CHAPTER V. | |
| Change in the aspect of the country in crossing the frontier from Belgium into Prussia—Passports, no real inconvenience—Anecdote of a Jamaica planter—First view of Aix-la-Chapelle—Its population and employments—Insurrection of the Patriots in 1830—Its absurd termination—The Cathedral of Charlemagne—Its architecture—Donation of Mary Queen of Scots—The Tomb of Charlemagne—His singular mode of interment—The relics in the Treasury—The Redoute—Gaming discountenaced in Prussia—The Hôtel de Ville—Statue and fountain of Charlemagne—Environs of Aix agreeable—Political condition of the Trans-Rhenan province of Prussia—Excellent posting arrangements—Improvement suggested in England—Aspect of the country to Juliers—Juliers—Neuss—Trade in crushing oil might be advantageously introduced in Ireland—The church of St. Quirinus—The Rhine. | 219 |