While at breakfast this morning, I met with Messrs. S. W. Brooks, Major Robert Meriwether, D. H. A. Shaw, and Dr. Davidson, who arrived yesterday in the steam packet North American from the United States. They have come to examine the country in reference to business and as a location for families. Dr. Shaw and Major Meriwether are the regular agents of a colonization society in Edgefield District, South Carolina, and bring with them an appointment embodying instructions from the president of the association.

As the representatives of other parties they have adopted the proper course in having authenticated credentials, which may be exhibited to those here who may be called upon to render them assistance in exploring the country. The matter-of-fact bearing on the part of these gentlemen will impress the officials of Brazil very favorably, and I trust their investigations may be conducted in a way to lead to most satisfactory results.

Dr. Davidson is here to act for some friends in Texas, while Mr. Brooks represents a company of machinists and operatives who desire to establish a foundry and machine-shop for working iron in all its various forms.

All these gentlemen impress me with the earnestness of their purposes and their business intentions, so that I hope to co-operate with them in the farther examination of the country; and will render them any assistance in my power to promote their object. The same facilities will doubtless be afforded by the government to them that have been extended to others.

Having failed yesterday to find any one at No. 92 Rua Direita, I called upon Mr. G. N. Davis this morning and received a letter from my wife, which, however, was written in August, and served very little to relieve the suspense felt in regard to my family, as great anxiety is manifested in regard to the future conduct of the negroes in the country.

This is the only information from any of my friends since leaving on the 26th of June; and I am quite anxious to know the present disposition of those who are expected to act with us in the projected move to Brazil.

I delivered a letter of introduction to-day to Mr. Joseph Bennaton, No. 125 Rua Direita, from his nephew, Mr. Newton Bennaton; whereupon he manifested a cheerful readiness to promote my wishes, and extended an invitation to sojourn at his house while I remained in the city. I thanked him for his proffered hospitality, but stated to him that circumstances made it desirable for me to stay at the hotel, where persons could be seen on business. His invitation to visit his family and take dinner to-morrow afternoon was however accepted.

A copy of the handbook for emigrants to Brazil, arranged by Dom Galvão, was received from him to-day by the hand of his secretary. In this, he has compiled the laws and public enactments of the empire of Brazil bearing upon the relations of foreigners in becoming residents of the country, with the regulations heretofore in force pertaining to colonization. It is expected that important modifications of the laws of Brazil will be made in regard to the anticipated emigration of people from the south of the United States, yet nothing has yet been definitely determined on by the authorities.

Upon calling this morning at the residence of the Minister of Agriculture, he was absent, and a note was left for him stating that I would return at ten o’clock to-morrow morning with other gentlemen from the Southern States.

Dr. Shaw, Dr. Davidson and Mr. Brooks called with me to-day upon Dom Galvão, and had a conference with him in regard to the emigration movement. He was so kind as to send his secretary, Mr. Mello, with us to one of the public offices to procure maps of the lower provinces of Brazil. This latter gentleman speaks English as well as Dom Galvão, and I accepted his invitation to go out to-morrow afternoon and make the acquaintance of his mother’s family.

I proceeded with Mr. Bennaton at four o’clock in the little steamer to his residence in Caju, and found the scenery in that precinct quite attractive, and his residence very pleasant. His wife is a German lady, much younger than himself, and they have three interesting little children. She is a fine performer on the piano and sings admirably, but as her pieces were mostly Italian I could not fully appreciate her music.

After dinner I joined them in a visit to Mr. Fox, who resides in an elegant house upon the hill, which is surrounded by grounds laid out in fine taste, and having the additional attraction of most excellent grapes, imported from the United States. He drew my attention to the fact of his dwelling being much damaged by an insect which destroys the texture of the wood and leaves the part without support. I supposed it to be the same that had been seen at the house of Mr. Blackford, where the interior of the wood was reduced to a mere powder, with a thin exterior layer.

This injury to the texture of the wood may escape observation unless there is a special examination of the particular part, as the perforations by which these insects enter the outer layer are very small, and all the fine sawdust made by their operations remains within this outer shell, that is not thicker in the specimen seen than coarse white paper.

Any iron rod, or even wooden pole, thrust against a piece of timber affected in this way would cause it to yield and fall into a hole, so that the damage might become in this way apparent when their presence was suspected in a house. But most of the heavy timbers being concealed, this mode of testing is impracticable, and they give way, as the first sign of the mischief going on within.

Mr. Fox has lived in Brazil for forty years, and conducted a large and successful mercantile business, by which he has realized a handsome competency, and has now retired. He is an Englishman, and has retained his nationality, raising his British flag on important occasions upon a flag-staff which stands in his yard. His views are expressed unfavorably to domesticating in Brazil, and yet his example of spending most of his life here, with a prospect of continuing here for the present, seems contradictory to his opinion.

He has not married, and yet has a senhora in his house, who stands in that relation which induces many in this country to dispense with a wife.

He is now perhaps over sixty years old, and this buxom-looking, dark-skinned woman is probably something over thirty-five, officiating at his table and discharging the other duties of housekeeper.

Being awakened at daylight, I accompanied Mr. Bennaton in a row-boat to the city. He had business which required his presence at his store very early, and as I wished to confer with the other gentlemen at the hotel in regard to matters for the attention of the Minister of Agriculture, it was very desirable to both that this early move be made.

Major Meriwether, Dr. Shaw, Dr. Davidson, and Mr. Brooks went with me at 10 o’clock A. M. to the residence of the minister, and after presenting these gentlemen I explained through the secretary, acting as interpreter, the nature of their mission. The papers embodying the authority under which they acted were submitted to the consideration of the minister by Major Meriwether and Dr. Shaw.

Upon learning that these latter two gentlemen desired to visit the province of São Paulo, the minister stated that they would be afforded the same facilities which had been received by others, and that they could likewise visit other provinces if they were not satisfied after examining this.

When it was intimated to the minister that I had not seen all the parts of the province of São Paulo which I desired to examine, and that it would be mutually agreeable to visit such sections of country with these gentlemen, he said this arrangement would be entirely satisfactory.

It was understood that Senor Ernesto D. Street would take charge of the voyage to Conceicão and Cananea, while arrangements would be made for Mr. Bennaton to proceed with us to other points in the interior.

Dr. Davidson, wishing to go to the Bay of Paranagua, had similar facilities afforded for his passage and subsequent examination of the adjacent country.

Mr. Brooks explained his object in coming here from the United States, to ascertain certain facts as to the location of iron-works in Rio de Janeiro; and that this being the centre of trade, it was not thought advisable to go elsewhere. He stated that all the appliances were in readiness to be brought here and put into operation should his information warrant the move, but as yet he had not learned those data upon which a conclusion could be based.

I adverted to the probable advantages of some location which could make the ore of Epanema available, and supply not only all the domestic and agricultural implements for the province of São Paulo and others adjoining, but eventually make railroad iron for the extension of the line in progress from Santos. The minister thought a situation might be secured with this view that would prove very favorable to business. But Mr. Brooks not being inclined at present to extend his observations and inquiries beyond the city of Rio, the minister assured him of his desire to encourage the erection of such works, and that any assistance which the government could consistently render would be extended to this enterprise.

The minister stated that there was no tax on capital employed in the various manufacturing operations, and that no duty is exacted upon such implements as emigrants may import upon their arrival in the country for their use.

Professional men, as doctors and lawyers, are required to undergo an examination upon coming here for the practice of their respective callings.

Negroes are not admitted into Brazil from other countries unless free-born, and even should they be citizens of the latter after being in slavery, it does not authorize them to be received here.

Regarding this a matter of much moment to those whose negroes would be willing to come with them to this country, I urged the importance of some modification of the existing regulations so as to permit those presenting free-papers from the United States government to enter Brazil. But the minister informed us that it was a provision of the constitution based upon international laws, that could not be altered without a reference to the other powers concerned, and, moreover, that this element would not be a very desirable addition to the population of the country.

There are certainly some aspects of the matter which make it of questionable propriety to admit this particular class of free negroes in a country where slavery exists, and the influence of these freedmen upon other free negroes and upon slaves in Brazil might tend to bring about similar scenes to those which have been enacted in the process of emancipation in the United States.

On the other hand, this skilled labor in the culture of cotton and in the working of machinery of various kinds, would be of much importance to the progress of agriculture and the arts. The negro from the Southern States could give negroes here a practical illustration in the use of the plow, which would be worth more to Brazil than all the treatises on agriculture which are likely to be written for twenty years; and in this respect a few of these negroes would prove very advantageous.

It is evident, however, that Brazil regards the institution of slavery as precarious, and we see already in the public prints allusions to future emancipation, and measures suggested for its gradual accomplishment, which are intended to prepare the public mind for this event at no very distant day. Where this question is discussed among a people whose interests are so largely involved in slavery as in this country, it may be taken for granted that there is a sentiment of opposition to it which will by piecemeal attain the end in view. The overturning of slavery by the result of the war in the United States is simply a sequence of abolitionism which has been at work for a series of years in shaping the policy of the government; and it is found that the same element is working industriously and too surely, for the final consummation and realization of their views in the securing of equal rights and free suffrage to the negro. I do not intend to convey the idea that the institution of slavery cannot be discussed with safety to the institution, for I hold that it rests upon a basis that is tenable in a moral, political, and social point of view; yet the presentation of this subject in the public prints indicates that there are many others besides those who write holding similar doctrines.

The English element of the population in this country is antagonistic to slavery, and is quietly instilling this principle, not simply by the expression of opinions, but in some instances by aiding in the liberation of slaves through contributions of funds for the purchase of freedom, and contracting for the service of the party for a certain period.

The minister informed us that no military service is exacted from residents of Brazil who are not citizens, and that only the service of home-guards is required from such foreigners as are naturalized.

No practicable measure has been devised for lessening the price of private lands which may be desirable for emigrants; but public lands will be put at the minimum price of twenty-two cents per acre, with the privilege of five years to pay for it.^[21]

I informed his excellency that no formal report of my observations, up to this time, had been prepared, from the fact that it was my wish to make a further examination of the country, and that a final report, covering all, would be rendered when this tour was concluded.

On our way back to the hotel, the extensive and admirably arranged tannery (cortuma) of Mello & Co., in São Christovão, was visited by the party; and we were quite surprised to find so much taste and neatness displayed in the surroundings of the place. The structures are not simply substantial, but manifesting an architectural skill and perfection of arrangement that is not often found in buildings for similar purposes anywhere. The grounds are laid out artistically, and ornamented with shrubbery and flowers, so as really to make this place of business a pleasant resort.

The interior is provided with all the appliances for treating the hides, from packing them down, while fresh, in salt, to dressing the leather and finishing it off for use. There is a mill run by steam for grinding the bark and the leaves of the manque bravo and the manque manse, which furnish the astringent for making the tan ooze.

The small tree affording these materials grows very abundantly in the swampy lands near the coast in various portions of this country, and the principle of tannin is so strong in the leaves of the manque manse, that it makes a black dye which is indelible. There are, also, other trees growing in the forests here which furnish barks that are used for tanning; one of which has been pointed out to me, and is found upon the slopes of the serras in great profusion.

The vessels used in this establishment are huge reservoirs, made after the style of a half-barrel, with a diameter of five feet and a depth of three feet, into which a decoction of the astringents is conveyed, and in this the hides are deposited for a time, and afterwards laid down with astringents in the vats, to undergo the tanning process.

There are three sets of vats: the fresh water vats for soaking the recent hides, the liming vats, and the tanning vats. These are all laid in cement, and of course retaining all the fluids that are placed in them. The dimensions are about six feet long, five feet deep, and four feet wide. The fresh water is supplied by a system of pipes, and regulated according to the demand.

The refuse angles of the hides, and also those portions of the skin about the feet, with the hoofs, are converted into glue, and every thing is economized with the greatest care and neatness, preventing any bad smell.

The average period allowed for the action of the astringents upon the hides is six months; and I was informed that some three thousand (3,000) hides are taken out monthly, giving thus an annual yield of thirty-six thousand (36,000) skins tanned here.

Notwithstanding the apparent system of this extensive establishment, I understand that it has not proved very profitable to the proprietors; and it may be that there is more style than efficiency in its management.

There are three other large tanneries in the suburbs of the city; and, from the specimens of leather examined, the art certainly seems to have attained a high degree of advancement. Whether the materials ordinarily used here are preferable to red oak bark, I have no means of determining. In some sections, the logwood is a native growth, and it is employed for tanning the heavy sole leather; but this is not regarded the best quality of leather for any domestic use, and is generally shipped to other parts where heavy shoes are more in demand.

Subsequent to the examination of the tannery, Dr. Shaw and myself visited the butchering establishment, where the greatest portion of the beef eaten in this little world of a city is slaughtered, and the appliances are co-extensive with the immense demand. Some of the machinery for securing and killing the animals would afford an interesting item for description; but, having no taste for this species of mechanism, I will pass it over with the simple mention, that it is evidently well adapted to the object in view. The huge carcases that were suspended in the building were of the well-defined varieties of Pharaoh’s cattle, and it occurred to me that I should like to make my choice here of what I should eat.

There is no general meat-market in Rio as in most large cities; but there are houses in all the different streets who deal in the flesh of different kinds, thus supplying all demands. One of the noticeable features connected with this butchering establishment is the immense collection of the largest horns that have ever been produced in any country. It would have afforded quite curious information to have measured one of these tremendous developments; and, most assuredly, the slang phrase of taking a horn never had its origin from the use of those having such proportions as were exhibited here. The cattle from the lower provinces of Brazil, that furnish many of the beeves for this market, are very large, and have the most disproportionably large horns that it has fallen to my lot to see upon the head of any animal, being, thus, of huge size.

All the juices are extracted from the bones of the animals that may be left on hand, or returned here for this purpose, and soap is produced from it, while the substance of the bone is reduced to a charcoal that commands a good price.

The entrails of the beeves are also cleaned of every portion of the tallow, and they are afterwards used for making soap on the premises.

The negro women engaged in this operation of washing the intestines present quite a graphic scene. Instead of using vessels of water, they carry a lot of these filthy things into a canal of water which is located between the butchering-house and the boiling establishment, and the water being considerably above knee-deep, it behooves them to have their clothing protected from getting wet at the expense of denuding their entire lower extremities. Their skirts are tucked about their waists, with a fold passing round between the thighs, which thus gives a display of nature unadorned.

According to appointment, Mr. Mello called at my room this afternoon, and Dr. Shaw, Major Meriwether, Mr. Brown and myself joined him, to make a visit to the Botanical Garden, and also to call at his mother’s house on the way.

Taking an outside seat on the hack, I enjoyed a good view of all the scenery along the drive of five miles, and found the many fine improvements and the beauties of nature on the mountain sides very attractive. At several points the road lay close by the water’s edge, and in one locality the wall which had been erected as a barrier for the waves had been undermined, and had tumbled down, with a considerable caving in of the land, reducing our passage to a narrow way. The lofty peak of the Corcovado was towering above us, and the little rivulets of water coursing down its sides glittered in the rays of the descending sun, while here and there along its base were neat cottages or palatial dwellings of those who sought refuge from the din and confusion as well as the heat of the crowded city.

Going forward, we reached the garden, with its grand and gorgeous colonnade of majestic palm trees, which is doubtless the most perfect type of quiet dignity and simple beauty that the world can present. Much has been done in rendering portions of these grounds artistically attractive, and yet the beauties of art are overshadowed by the greater beauty of nature presented in the forest that has been left upon the back of the garden. From this hillside there is a stream of water tumbling down in artificial cascades, and running on to form a beautiful lake upon the plain below, all fringed with green.

This retired spot has been selected by the authorities for a collection of rare specimens of trees, fruits and flowers, being hence styled the Botanical Garden. If any one desires to study in a small compass, many varieties of rarities, it may be done here advantageously, without a guide, as the names of most of the unusual fruits are attached to the trees by a metal card. The almond, the clove and the cinnamon tree are among this interesting assortment.

The greatest taste has been displayed in laying out these extensive grounds, and they have been most elaborately supplied with attractions, making it quite a recreation to stroll leisurely and quietly through the extended walks. No one should go to Rio without visiting this place, and a hack takes persons from Rua Direita directly to the gate.

Upon our return we stopped with Senor Mello, and found his mother and three sisters presenting more of the characteristics of our people than is usual among the ladies of this country. Though none of them spoke English, I found that my small acquisition in Portuguese availed to communicate with them to a limited extent, and the kind disposition manifested compensated for the lack of language to express their good will towards us.

Another brother of the young ladies was also present who speaks English, and with the aid of the two as interpreters, all got on very pleasantly with our party during the call.

A nice repast, with beer, wine and brandy, was served in the dining-room, and none of us having any difficulty in comprehending this phase of the entertainment, all were prepared to appreciate it. With the best wishes of the old lady, we took our leave of the household.

Going this morning to the office of Mr. C. Nathan for some letters he proposed to furnish for our visit to Ignape and Cananea, he sent a young man with us to the post-office to assist in examining the lists, and to make inquiries for letters. None however were found, and I must be resigned to the failure of letters by the last packet from the United States.

Upon returning, Lieutenant Fiske, formerly connected with the Confederate Navy, called to learn something of my observations upon the country, and finding that he had concluded to return to the United States, I presented no consideration calculated to change his determination, nor did I feel disposed to develop my plans to him.

Mr. Malone came in for a short conference, in which he expressed his decision to remain in the country with his family. He and his lady had at one time a female school in Memphis, Tennessee, and they will make a pleasant addition to the group of settlers wherever they may locate.

Shortly after these gentlemen left, Senor Street entered and informed me that he was authorized by the Minister of Agriculture to accompany myself, Dr. Shaw, and Major Meriwether to Conceicão and Cananea, and that all would be arranged for us to go aboard of the Santa Maria to-morrow.

Having been informed that it would be agreeable to one of the ministers who comes from Minas to see us, Mr. Mello had undertaken to arrange for a meeting, but he returned with the statement that his excellency would be in conference with the other ministers and the Emperor to-day, so that he could not see us for the present. As we leave early to-morrow, our meeting with him must be deferred.

But Dr. Shaw has concluded to make a memorandum of matters desirable to be known respecting that province, and get Mr. Mello to communicate with this honorable gentleman from Minas, so that we may be informed at a future day. One of the points of most interest to me is the facilities for hiring negroes which are said to be afforded in some parts of Minas, and it is desirable to know upon what terms they will allow them to go to other sections of Brazil, for a term of years.

All the afternoon was spent in exploring the city of Rio with Dr. Shaw and Major Meriwether, for the purchase of travelling-trunks, spurs, and a thermometer; whereas, an application to some of our friends for the number and street in which these things could be found would have cost us but little trouble. Let others profit by this suggestion and save time and labor.

Though I had many personal matters of business to look after, these gentlemen desired my assistance, as they were totally unacquainted with the language, and there being no other person to whom I could refer them, it devolved upon me to accompany them. We spent a great deal of time unnecessarily, and walked ourselves completely down.

Being very tired when I returned to my room at night, I lay down upon a lounge to rest and did not awake until 11 o’clock. I then went down to search for a cup of coffee, but found every place in the vicinity was closed; and for once it occurred to me that coffee-houses might very appropriately keep late hours. Most of the eating and drinking establishments are shut up at 10 o’clock P. M. My fatigue and drowsy mood found refuge in my bed for the rest of the night.

Having a reserved stock of clothing in a chest at No. 92 Rua Direita, I selected this morning such articles as would be requisite for the projected tour, and proceeded to pack my baggage at a late hour, so that it was done in great haste. Thus, some things of much importance were left in the room, but as Mr. Brown retains the same quarters, I trust he may find them and deliver them to Mr. Carlos Nathan. If a word of caution can avail to induce others to pack up all baggage on the night previous to an anticipated journey, it will save them of all confusion and enable them to employ the last moments before starting much more profitably.

Dr. Shaw, Major Meriwether, and myself being in readiness, negroes were employed to carry our trunks upon their heads to the wharf, and we then availed ourselves of a row-boat to proceed to the Santa Maria, which lay out some distance in the bay. The three persons, with all baggage, were taken for one dollar by previous contract, as I have found that to be the best mode of doing business with these boatmen.

Our friend Mr. Mello was found on the steamer, having accompanied some friends aboard. He introduced us to Dr. Fogg, an American dentist, who has resided in Rio for twenty years and realized a handsome income from his business.

He retains his citizenship in the United States, as do most of those who have come from there to this country, and none of them, so far as I have heard, encourage our people to remove with their families to Brazil. We place our own construction upon their statements, and prefer to think and act independent of their advice.

The arrangements upon the Santa Maria all proved very satisfactory to Dr. Shaw and Major Meriwether; and the fare was in accordance with the usual good table of this boat. A state-room with four berths was set apart for Mr. Street in conjunction with us, making it a pleasant little family party. Of course we enjoyed a refreshing sleep, and rose to find ourselves approaching the city of Santos. Landing at 8 o’clock A. M., I proceeded immediately to see my friend Mr. Wright in regard to the measures for visiting the lands near Conceicão. Finding his breakfast at hand I joined him and his family, and he afterwards came with me to see the vicar (vigairo) of this district, who was acquainted with persons in that section.

He manifested much interest in the proposed visit, and said that there was a person in town from there with whom he would confer as to our trip. The aspect of affairs was not very promising for an early move, as this individual could not go to-day and did not know whether it would be practicable to go to-morrow.

In the mean time the other two gentlemen, Dr. Shaw and Major Meriwether, were quartered at the Hotel Milan, and I was a guest of Mr. Wright, while Mr. Street proceeded to São Paulo to arrange with the President for the means of defraying expenses on this voyage.

I dined at the house of Mr. Wright’s father-in-law, this being his birthday, and that also of the Emperor, which made it the occasion for quite a feast of good things.

After concluding the ceremonies of the table the members of the family all shook hands with each other, this being a custom of constant observance among them after dinner, even on ordinary occasions.^[22]

Learning that there was a site for buildings with some lands attached, upon the seaside, which were offered for sale, Mr. Wright went with us to see the place. He supplied me with a horse, and the other two gentlemen were supplied from the livery stable. A young man was sent by the owner to show us the premises, and I observed that he was riding a mare, which is the first time that one has been observed in service anywhere in the country. In the stockgrowing region they are confined to trading, and there seems to be an impression that they are not suited for the saddle or for pack service, as the valuation of mares is much below that of horses.

After riding five miles through the hot sun we found a location which might, with a large outlay for improvements, become a very nice residence for a family. It is at a point where the serra approaches the water of the ocean, and thus getting the full benefit of the sea-breeze. The property includes a portion of the level low land with a portion of the elevated land, and there is a small clear stream of water running down the slope, which has been used in former days for the machinery of a sugar-mill. From the antiquated look of the relics, we might readily suppose that this was the identical establishment erected by Martin Affonso in 1533, to work the cane grown in this region from specimens procured in the island of Madeira. There is now only left the stone basement of the old building, but the stream still runs fresh and pure water that might again be used for some mechanical purpose, or for other domestic uses of a family.

We made a commencement of this day in the right direction, by going to church before breakfast, but it was not with any reverential intentions. We ascended the high hill, Monteserrate, to take a view of the large building there located, and to enjoy the wide extended panorama to be seen all around us. One old horse, that by some legerdemain had accomplished the ascent of this lofty pinnacle, and a few goats, as full of frolic and mischief as these animals usually are, constituted the companions to the rather dreary-looking inmates of the church building. It is only upon extraordinary occasions that this church is brought into requisition, and during my former visit to the city there was an illumination of the windows at night that presented a brilliant and captivating view from the plain below. We found the ascent of the steep and narrow winding way very fatiguing, which rendered a rest quite acceptable upon reaching the summit, and it was well calculated to recall the resting-place of the dove, from which this is named.

Though it was Sunday morning, and though the service was for the church, several negroes were employed in carrying baskets of brick upon their heads, from the base to the top of this mountain, and moved up without any great inconvenience under their heavy burdens. How they undergo such labor with such weights upon their heads is a mystery to me, but it seems to be the favorite mode of transportation by the negroes here and at Rio de Janeiro.

If these darkies, however, are strong in proportion to the aroma of their persons, they ought to accomplish wonders, for the scent was overpowering as they passed us.

Dr. Shaw and Major Meriwether joined me to-day at dinner with Mr. Wright, and concurred in my very favorable estimate of his accomplished and modest wife.

It was ascertained to-day from Senor Urcezina Antonio Ferreira that arrangements would be effected for us to leave here to-morrow morning in company with him, to make the voyage to Conceicão. But from the various modifications of the plan and the changes of time for leaving, I feel considerable misgivings about setting out with this man, and have requested Mr. Wright to let Mr. Clinton W. Jackson, the book-keeper in his store, accompany us on this trip as interpreter. He has consented to this, and upon returning to the hotel with a view to a final understanding, our escort not meeting us at the hour fixed, Clinton was under the necessity of going in search of him. He brought him round in a short time, with an explanation of the delay, and we were told that every thing was arranged for us to leave at five o’clock next morning in a diligence to proceed to São Vincente. This is a distance of eight miles, and thence other means are provided.

Being impressed here with the difficulty of procuring means of transportation, I telegraphed Senor Street, and wrote a note to Mr. Bennaton to arrange animals for proceeding on the 9th instant from São Paulo.

We made an early start from Santos in the diligence, accompanied by Senor Ferreira, and reached São Vincente in good time for breakfast.

Here was the first settlement of civilized man in this region, Martin Affonso having landed at the port near by, in 1532, and as a preliminary step erected a fort to protect his people from the Indians who then held possession of the country. There were various tribes of Indians throughout the country, and through the intervention of João Ramalho, a Portuguese who had been left upon this coast by a vessel early in that century, a portion of these tribes became friendly to the newcomers, and the town of São Vincente was established. A church and a school soon sprung up here, and there was a prospect of an increasing population by accessions from the mother country. But the hostile tribes of Indians made frequent incursions, in which great outrages were committed, and the sense of insecurity prevented any material advancement in the place. The obstruction of the harbor ultimately by sand prevented the entrance of vessels, and the present site of Santos became the port, and business was transferred to that place.

The villa of São Vincente has perhaps been stationary for over a hundred years as regards population; and it seems to be the residence of a lazy, listless gang of very ordinary people. There is a large church and a number of houses, perhaps in all, fifty, which form one short street. The inn at which we got breakfast and a few shops do all the business.

Taking our carpet-bags in our hands we set out at 8 o’clock for the canoe-landing, and crossed the Bertioga to the main land in about half an hour. Again we proceeded on foot, with a rain falling that drenched us thoroughly; and the ground being flat was soon covered everywhere with water, so that walking was attended with much difficulty. It was expected that a walk of three miles would take us to the beach, where a cart was to be in waiting. But not finding any conveyance it became necessary to travel on foot four miles farther. Here, however, we had the firm sandy beach, and apart from the rain, the operation of walking was not disagreeable.

At length the covered cart or diligence of this Senor Ferreira was reached; and all hands being in good keeping for a lunch, the eatables provided for us at Santos were drawn forth. With a cup of hot coffee prepared by the inmates of the house where we stopped, and the bread stuffed with sausages, all were refreshed for the progress in the cart. This turnout for the transportation of persons along the beach is quite a novelty, both in mode of construction and in its being recently built for this express line. The wheels are made of hard wood and have no iron tire; but the axles are of iron, and the mechanism by which the front connects with the body is quite too complicated for description. The body is panelled, with seats extending along each side within, after the omnibus style. The cover is of cotton cloth which has been smeared with oil, but not serving to exclude water, as we had ample opportunity to testify. The three mules moved off at a fair gait under the frequent lashings of our German postilion; but after travelling eight or ten miles they became very dull, and their pace was so much slackened, notwithstanding the German’s antidote, that the progress was suspended for the jaded animals to recuperate their energies.

In the mean time Major Meriwether and I proceeded on foot, so as to relieve the mules of our weight when they might resume the advance. It was raining some and blowing considerably, but fortunately the wind came upon our backs so as to assist our progress. Any one who has ever been upon a sea-beach with a strong wind can fully appreciate the importance of having it to favor your course. With this firm level beach and a very light vehicle, with sails attached, it would have been quite practicable to keep ahead of these slow movers. Indeed the idea of a windmill attached to the wheels of a car upon a railway might be made available for running even against the wind. The cogs upon a trunnel head might be so adjusted as to work upon the cogs on the axles, giving them progressive motion; though the wheel of revolution by the wind should be turned to front or rear or to either side. If this suggestion could be applied to the stern-wheel of a small propeller, might it not be used to advantage in some circumstances? We know that windmills are used to draw water, and why not for turning a wheel in water in like manner?

This thought is original and perhaps novel; though it may have very little practical merit, let some one try the experiment and report the result, as the outlay for materials will be but small.

After walking four or five miles we found upon the shore a boat-shelter with a thatched roof, under which lay a large canoe. As this afforded some protection from the rain and wind, it was thought best to stop here and rest a while. A mulatto resident of the coast passed by our resting-place and said it was but two leagues (eight miles) farther to the village; but feeling inclined now to avail ourselves of the cart, we were not in a hurry to move forward. Major Meriwether observed a mulatto girl at some distance indulging her curiosity by looking at us, and supposing there must be a residence near at hand I rose and started towards her, when she left precipitately at a full run. Upon proceeding in the direction of her retreat I came upon the house or rather the shelter where the family resided, and asked for oranges and bananas, but was told that none were to be had in these parts. The only thing seen about the premises that could afford subsistence was a few stalks of mandioca; and the interior of the establishment displayed a meagreness of every thing that could contribute to comfort.

I learn that these people living along the coast depend chiefly upon fish for a living, and consequently they don’t trouble themselves much in cultivating the earth. Such things as are produced spontaneously or with little labor afford a scanty addition to their supplies from the water, and they care for nothing beside. One of these fellows had been engaged to carry our luggage before reaching the station where we took the cart, and he seemed nimble on the foot, with sufficient endurance, but this job would doubtless satisfy him for a week.

Being rested we set out afoot again, leaving a notice upon the sand, “We proceed,” and after walking two miles further, the cart was seen far to the rear. Not intending to concede that we were particularly anxious to ride, the march was continued until overtaken, which took us at least one mile more on our way. Thus we travelled on foot not less than fourteen or fifteen miles, and as the Major carried a considerable quantity of fat, with new boots that did not yield to the pressure, his feet were very much excoriated, or, as I put it, he had gum-boils on his heels.

The mules still made very slow progress, and it began to be a matter of concern whether they would take us to our destination; but a while after dark our escort announced that we were approaching the place, with the suggestion that a portion of the party should get out, and thus lighten the load through the heavy sand after leaving the beach. Upon halting opposite the store of our companion, several rockets illumined the dark regions above us, and reverberated in the stillness of this retired settlement, to signalize our arrival at Conceicão. After considerable delay we were shown to a house having nothing but bedsteads to cheer our vision, and told to make ourselves at home. A bottle of gin was the only relief to the wet, cold and hungry travellers, and as none of us had any particular fondness for this beverage, it was touched very lightly. I did not hesitate to ask for a fire, nor did I scruple subsequently to urge a more ample supply of fuel. But it was built upon an elevated scaffold, in a small room without a chimney, so that it was difficult to get any of the warmth of the fire, and the smoke pervaded every corner of the apartment, so that it was almost intolerable.

After so long a time we were served with coffee, and the remnants of our day’s lunch, which seemed to indicate that the resources of our chaperon were rather slim. But we were still further impressed with this fact when their flagmats and a single spread upon the hard boards of the bedsteads were provided for our lodging. We certainly had bed and board combined in this establishment, and a harder lot I never encountered in all my rough-and-tumble progress through the world.

A servant was directed to report to us for supplying any wants we might make known, but we were so nearly in want of every thing that it would have been an endless undertaking to have specified those things requisite for our comfort, so we determined that whatever a night may bring forth will be seen with the light of another day, and waited for something to turn up.

The reception afforded here by Senor Urcezina Antonio Ferreira differs so entirely from the good cheer of a Brazilian welcome, such as I have been accustomed to receive during my tour in the interior, that I have thought it proper to make a record of the details as an exception to the usual hospitable treatment extended to me by the people of this country.

This man is not without means, and though he has a family residence in the villa, this unoccupied house has been set apart for our accommodation, that we might not be disturbed by the children, who are represented as dirty little brats.