With the conviction that we could not fare worse elsewhere, we made an early move from Capella de Alto, hoping to find a place for breakfast within ten or twelve miles. But there was no suitable place to stop until we reached Lamberi, sixteen miles distant, and having rode very slowly, we got nothing to eat until two o’clock P. M.
Our road to-day lay through a hilly country, and though the soil was for the most part thin, there was some very fair farming land. In several places there were campos of waste land, growing only a rough grass and the scrubby palm.
Quite a number of the native men of the country were seen about the ranchos on the roadside, and the recruiting officers might find a good harvest in this region. Many of the older men, and most of the women, were affected with the goitre, that swelling of the glands of the neck which is prevalent in the proximity of most of the serras. We observed also, as we approached this place, quite a number of persons laboring under the leprosy (Morfea) posted on the roadside, to ask alms of those passing.
This miserable condition is a disease of the skin and other tissues, which is supposed to result from the climate in connection with improper diet; and is complicated in some instances with syphilis, or other degenerated states of the system. The treatment of it has not heretofore been attended with satisfactory results, but I learn that a vine has been discovered which cures this terrible malady, and the efficacy of this treatment will ere long be fully tested.
The subjects of this disorder are excluded from all association with other persons, and are often found in tents or rude huts, in some isolated spot, near the thoroughfares, so that they may gather a small pittance from travellers, to purchase the means of subsistence. They seem very grateful for even the smallest amount that may be given, and we have usually thrown them a few dumps, but there was none in hand to-day.
This being my forty-first birthday, I find myself at the middle period of life with a crisis in my affairs which must influence the future of myself and family very materially. To commence the world as it were anew with six young children involves great responsibility to my wife and myself; but I trust that all may be accomplished for our mutual welfare and comfort, by the issue of my present investigations in this county.
The past is to be separated from the future with more distinctness than any other periods of my existence have been, not only by the change of events but by the alterations of our social relations; and the rending of old ties and establishing of new associations makes the prospective change of location a very serious consideration.
The circumstances in which we will be placed may not admit of those advantages in rearing and educating our children which they would have enjoyed under a different order of things; and I realize that many duties as a man and parent devolve upon me now that differ much from those of former years.
But being imbued with a deep-rooted sentiment of self-reliance, it is still my privilege to exercise those energies of body and those faculties of mind which God has given me, for promoting the welfare of those dependent upon me.
Having taken a cup of coffee at the inn of mine host, Captain Marianno, we set out at 5 o’clock this morning, and after a ride of twelve miles over hills and plains, we reached the town of Itapetininga.[26] The first four miles lay through an irregular matto, with numerous very steep hills; but the remaining eight miles were through campos of gently undulating lands. Upon these there were several groups of horses and a few herds of cattle, but neither presented an appearance that would recommend this region for stock-raising.
We stopped with Senor Lenente Coronel Manoel Affonso Pereira Chaves, and though plain in his garb and manner, we were made to realize that we were heartily welcomed, while he exhibited an intelligence and general acquaintance with this region which promises to be very useful to us.
Upon conferring with a French engineer named Prudent, who has been employed by the government in constructing a road from this place to Sette Barros, on the Ribeira de Ignape, Mr. Bennaton concluded this route would be impracticable, and determined to proceed to Paranapanema. All the roads across the serra leading to the river are said to be in very bad order, but it being the business of this engineer to put this road in good order, it would be well for the authorities to investigate the cause of failure, and perhaps it would be found that another man would be more faithful to his charge.
The people here partake generally of the mental and physical characteristics of the country, and there is very little taste displayed in their dwellings or other houses.
A new theatre, which is not yet completed, is by far the neatest structure in the town, while the church is ready to tumble down from age and decay.
The plan of the place is similar to most of those seen, having a central open space near the church, and the streets laid off elsewhere at right angles and not usually more than thirty feet wide.
Most of the houses have but a single story, yet there are some exceptions, and our host has quite a large two-story residence, which, however, is not yet completed. Senor Chaves has presented me with a history of the province of São Paulo, for which I feel very thankful; and it will be made one of my text-books in learning the Portuguese language.
There is a stream of water on one side of the town upon which there is a saw-mill, and a cotton-gin is soon to be in operation also at the same place.
Notwithstanding this facility for water-power, we witnessed the stupendous folly of a small cotton-gin with eighteen saws in operation by the force of a treadmill, worked by the leg-power of men; and a screw was also seen at the same place worked by manual force of these bipeds.
In this apparatus there is a huge upright wheel of fifteen feet diameter, in which a man is constantly walking, and yet not advancing; and two other men are standing upon a platform outside of the rim of the wheel so as to use their feet upon certain pegs of wood, and thus assist the rotary motion. Four different bands and wheels without number are used to communicate this motion to the gin, and all this when mules and oxen are running idle about the town. A Portuguese is the owner of this stupid contrivance.
Our host favored us with an early breakfast, and we set out at 8 o’clock A. M. on the road leading to Paranapanema. Passing the Rio Itapetininga we traversed campos varied with patches of matto for twenty miles, when we stopped at a wayside inn kept by Senor José Ribeiro. The configuration of the lands over which we passed was irregular, and in some places extensive gullies or ravines had resulted from the washing of the rains. Most of the soil of the campos in this region is of a reddish aspect, while the matto lands are of a dark gray color, and producing fair crops under cultivation. Corn was observed growing well, and cotton is said to yield favorably.
The Irish potato was seen in a flourishing state at one place on the road to-day, and we are informed that this vegetable grows successfully in most parts of the country.
Those who plant cotton in this section are under the necessity of taking it in the seed to the gins at Itapetininga, and we saw some being carried on pack-mules in this form, a large basket being on each side.
At our stopping place we were informed that the proposed route from Paranapanema to Xiririca was in wretched condition, and I suggested that it would still be practicable to reach the Ribeira de Ignape at Iporanga, by way of Faxina and Apiahy. This lead to a warm controversy between Mr. Bennaton and myself as to undertaking that trip under all the disadvantages presented, but it was finally concluded to continue our present course.
Starting at 7 o’clock this morning we passed over a beautiful campo country with a portion of fair matto land, and crossing the Rio Paranapanema we reached the town of that name at 3 o’clock P. M., making a distance of twenty-eight miles.
There were more horses and cattle seen to-day upon the green plains than upon any previous portion of our route, and this presents a fine prospect for raising stock of all kinds.
Small patches of good arable land, with a growth of trees, are scattered at long intervals throughout these extended undulating campos, and there are also trees growing along the small streams which meets all the demands for fuel or for making enclosure about the houses.
Within four miles of the town there is a large fazenda in the open land owned by Senor Francisco Antonio D’Aquiar e Castro, (son of the Marquiza de Santos,) who resides at São Paulo.
Here we saw that manure renders these lands productive, and the best specimen of cabbage seen in Brazil was growing in the garden, while other articles also looked vigorous.
There was a large number of hogs in most excellent condition enclosed in a pen, and the number of corn-cobs showed that this staple was produced plentifully in this section.
We met on the road beyond the fazenda a lot of fine hogs going to market, and asking the price it was stated to be seven dollars per head, and as they would average two hundred pounds, meat does not exceed three and a half cents per pound.
The buildings of the fazenda are commodious and substantial, with a dwelling that presents quite a neat appearance. A supply of clear water is brought from a distance by a race or ditch; and I especially observed the slight impression made upon this firm red clay soil by the passage of the rapid current of water through the yard into the lot for the hogs and cattle.
An extensive and very strong enclosure for the stock of cattle was constructed by having large upright posts placed in the ground, with a groove on each side, to receive the ends of poles, one above another, thus forming a most substantial close fence. Around this enclosure a row of trees has been planted, and protected by a railing of poles some three and a half feet from the ground; which will in a few years afford a good shade for such cattle as may be kept up. This planting of trees for shading is not often seen in any part of this country, and it is a matter of special attention in this place.
On riding into the town we met Senor Frei Ponsiano de Montaldo Capushinho, to whom we bore a letter, which being read, we were assured of his readiness to accommodate us.
He is the Catholic priest of the place, and has the best establishment we saw. I observed the facings of the windows were of native pine, which grows very large and extensively at no great distance. The church is a combination of the old building with a new structure, but all in a rude, unfinished condition.
Our inquiries at Paranapanema satisfy all the party that it will not be practicable to reach Xiririca with our animals; and in view of the distance to Iporanga, the prearranged plan of visiting the country upon the Ribeira de Ignape has been abandoned by my friends, Dr. Shaw and Major Meriwether. But as I am not prone to give up any thing desirable because of the difficulties to be encountered, I expect to proceed to Iporanga with animals and a camarada hired by Mr. Bennaton, and thence I will descend the river to Xiririca, where I hope to find Mr. Street.
In the mean time Mr. Bennaton will go with the other gentlemen to Botocatu and the region of Perecicaba, including a visit to the country around Araraquara. They will give me a report in writing of the impressions connected with the localities visited,[27] and I expect to furnish them an account of my observations, so that each party may be informed as to the entire territory examined.
My proposed route, lying between the serra and the river, will give me a very good idea of the lands on this side of the river; and my investigations may be extended afterwards to the other side. The climate below Xiririca is said to be very unfavorable from the rains and fogs which prevail; but above that line the atmosphere is reported to be free from humidity and to be healthy; while the lands are represented as being fertile and adapted to all variety of products grown in this country.
The temperature here to-day is remarkably cool for this latitude, the thermometer being this evening 62° Fahrenheit; and there is a considerable breeze, with a slight drizzle of rain, which is said to be very common during this season. The town and country are however represented as healthy, and there is no physician residing in the municipality or district. Here, as elsewhere, the glands of the neck among the women are enlarged very much.
There is quite an assemblage of people here to join in the festivities of New Year’s Eve, and extensive preparations for a grand bonfire and illumination, with a display of fire-works on the fantastic order. A square pen of wood has been built in the open plaza to the height of fifteen (15) feet, with a collection of small sticks arranged on top for ignition, all of which is expected to burn to the ground in the course of the evening or night. The illumination at the front of the church is made by cups of the peel of a half orange, having oil and a taper, all arranged into the shape of a cross, but they do not give much brilliancy, and this display is rather a failure.
The rockets are of great variety; some giving reports like a musket, others discharging several balls of different hues, and again a few having a reversed action, by which a blazing mass is sent down amidst the men, women, and children, or dividing into numerous streams of fire, which dash hither and thither in all directions. The revolving fire-works were decidedly successful at the close.
A few brass instruments and a violin in the hands of genteel Germans afforded very good music.
This morning is clear and beautiful, with the thermometer at 64° degrees Fahrenheit, having risen two degrees since last night. Nature seems to be all in smiles to welcome the return of a new year. Oh, that my heart could feel in unison with this bright and sunny morning!
But while all around is joyous, all within is sadness. The old year of 1865 has come to a close, and the events which have transpired shroud the retrospect with gloom and sadness. Horrible in their reality, and almost maddening to the thought, I would gladly if it were in my power cease to think of what is past. Could the fruitless martyrdom of my three noble brothers be forgotten, the sad fate of many who are left behind cannot be torn from my consciousness and consigned to oblivion. The fact that my own wife and children have been deprived of a house and home by the ruthless hand of the hostile incendiary, stares me constantly in the face as a terrible reality. I cannot but feel very anxious for the present condition and the future well-being of those near and dear to me.
Four months entire have now elapsed since any intelligence has reached me from them or other friends, and the disturbed state of society around them causes me much concern.
My heart feels a weight and depression not in keeping with the advent of a new year; but, flying from the dark abyss of misery which reflection brings to view, let me occupy my thoughts with the persons and things around me.
The sound of music awoke us at early dawn, and several pieces were performed to welcome the coming of another year. Upon going out, we found quite a transformation in the plaza, by the planting of forty-two palm trees (species of palmetto) during the night, making an avenue from the front of the church. They are not expected to grow, but are merely placed here as a part of the festivities of the occasion, to be continued to-day.
The companions of my voyage thus far have now left me to return to Itapetininga, from which point they will proceed to Botocatu. Two mules were brought here by Mr. Bennaton, though it was known that no further provision was to be made for me. This purchase, at forty-seven and a half ($47.50) dollars for a saddle-mule, and thirty-five ($35) dollars for a pack-mule, is considerably below the prices at the capital, but above the average valuation in this region.
The outfit for three men and three attendants now consists of eighteen animals.
I remain here for the camarada, Senor Pedro Crano D’Oliveiro, to come with his mules, and proceed with me through the woods to Iporanga. All these men, though performing menial service, expect a certain deference to be shown them; and it is customary to give them the title of respect implied by Senhor on all occasions. In fact, no freeman, white or black, is ever addressed here without this, but it is usual to prefix it to the first part of the name, even with persons of distinction, instead of using the surname or family name as is done with us, in prefixing the word Mister through respect.
My old friend, the Catholic priest, who is vicar of this district, has given me a letter to a friend in Xiririca, and has likewise procured another from a gentleman here to a party in Iporanga, so that I will get assistance in both places, should I fail to meet Senor Street.
The priest belongs to the order of Friars, and signs himself accordingly Frei, in the prefix to his name. He has gone out to attend to his duties at the church, leaving us at his house without seeming to expect that any of us took any interest in attending the services. The long flowing gown, with a monk’s hood hanging on the shoulders, is worn habitually, as indeed the clerical attire is the common dress of priests everywhere in this country; but when he goes to the church, the ceremonial vestments are taken by his page to be used in the services.
I went to the church to-day for the purpose of witnessing the proceedings of the festa by the vicar; and with the assistance of a number of persons who were attired for the occasion, he went through various incomprehensible manœuvres, that served to attract and interest the large concourse of people. At the close of these performances, rockets and other sonorous fire-works were exploded most profusely.
In the afternoon there was a grand procession of these demonstrative people, in honor of our Lady of Conception, (Nossa Senhora de Conceicão.)
The figure of a female seated on a platform, that rested on a sort of hand-barrow, was carried upon the shoulders of four men, and another figure, representing some of the saints, supported in like manner, accompanied it, while a large rich awning was hoisted upon the ends of six poles in the hands of as many men, under which the old vicar and a brother priest moved forward with certain symbols, among which was a silver cross encircled by a halo of brightness. This other priest is also a friar, and gives his name in full as Frei José de Loro, Director de Tijuco Preto, Ministerio Apostolico Capuchinho. He is from Italy, as is also the old vicar, the former being in this country only eight months, while the latter has been here twenty years, and says he has almost forgotten his native tongue.
Formed into line, with music in full blast, they marched in much apparent solemnity with their heads bowed, throughout the principal streets of the town, accompanied by most of the men, women and children that were present. On the return of the procession, the explosion of fire-works was deafening, and had an appearance in mid-heaven like the bursting of bombshells, when a hot engagement of artillery is progressing.
An address was subsequently made in the church by the vicar, but was not adapted to my limited comprehension of the language.
The proportion of men present was small, and for the most part scrawny specimens, with very shabby dress, having in many instances a sort of cloak (ponché) which covers all other deficiencies of dress. The absence of men having better physique is attributable to their apprehension of being recruited for the army, which induces them to forego the indulgence of public festivities.
The number of women in attendance was very large, and with few exceptions of mixed blood, either of the Indian or negro. Some of them were comely in form and neatly dressed, but far the greater number were downright ugly. Here, more even than at other places, the old and the young have the glands of the neck enlarged, constituting goitre, or, as called here, “papo.” This affection is ascribed to various causes; humidity of the atmosphere, bad diet, or deficiency of nutritious food, sleeping in exposed situations, combined with the water of the serras, are the usual concomitants.
In the vicinity of the Alps, it is known to prevail extensively, and is attributed by some writers to the use of snow-water. But here we have no snow-water, while there exists a geological formation in these serras which corresponds to that mountainous region; and it is highly probable that there exists some peculiar mineralogical principle in the water coming from these elevations which produces this result.
The better class of people are rarely seen with it, yet even those with all the comforts of life are not entirely exempt when living in these situations adjacent to a serra.
The old vicar has a woman with several children in the house with him, who is housekeeper and without a husband; while the youngest of the children indicates clearly its paternity.
Those acquainted with the habits of some of the priesthood in Brazil will not regard this allusion as indelicate, or involving any thing unbecoming.
Though there were servants about the house, the vicar insisted upon doing most that was required for us.
Soon after I arose this morning, my old camarada, Senor Pedro, came in to make the announcement that all was ready for the anticipated voyage, and attributed his failure to go on yesterday to the straying of a mule. But my inference is, that he could not bear the idea of leaving this festa and grand procession, and availed himself of a subterfuge, to quiet my impatience under the delay beyond his time appointed for starting.
I was supplied with a cup of coffee, and gave my old friend, the vicar, a heartfelt expression of my thanks for his kindness; when he gave me his best wishes for a prosperous voyage, and embraced me after the Brazilian manner,[28] with a warmth which made me feel that I was leaving a real friend.
In repairing to the house of Senor Pedro, he provided some farina, stew of beef, and big hominy, with bananas, for my breakfast, which were despatched with the aid of a spoon, as knives and forks seemed to be no part of his household furniture. This finished, I found that all the family were preparing to set out with us, as we were to go that day to a place owned by this man some twenty miles distant in the country. The horses for the women were brought through the house and taken into the back yard for them to mount. They soon sallied forth all astride, with their skirts so arranged as to cover their nether extremities, and, having drawers with straps under their feet, they were in regular trim for the expedition.
The old woman and three grown daughters were all mounted after this style, and seemed to use their stirrups and manage their horses as if they had been used to this mode of travelling. Their saddles are somewhat different from those used by the men, having a quilted seat, which serves as a cushion to protect them in riding astride.
Upon going out of town, we fell in with another party of women who had a more genteel appearance, and were seated in the ordinary way upon side-saddles,—one of them being especially well provided with horse and equipments. She was a young lady, very tidily dressed, and rather the best-looking woman seen in this section. One of the women of this party was the wife of a son of my old camarada, and her husband was carrying their only child before him on his mule.
The third member of this party was the mother of the other two women, but they are all of a very different stamp from the family to which they have become connected by marriage, and I could not but think they viewed our party of women astride of their horses as presenting a disgusting aspect. One of the daughters of my escort had a young child, and carried it most of the way in her arms, while her mother, an old woman of fifty years, carried it the rest of the time. These women rode the entire twenty miles astride without dismounting, and did not show any particular fatigue on arrival.
Within half a mile of Paranapanema we entered the forest, and, for three miles, the soil was red, and would certainty produce a fair yield of any thing that might be cultivated.
This land lay remarkably level for the general character of the country, and yet none of it has ever been cleared up. Passing through this, the soil was of a dark aspect, with a clay basis, and, though sundry ravines interrupted the configuration of the surface, there was a great deal of land lying very favorably. Very little of it has been brought into use, but the few specimens of corn seen along the road presented a good appearance.
Upon approaching the place of Senor Pedro, a considerable river, São José, came into view; and he informs me that there is a water-fall of great extent, ten or twelve miles below, which is surrounded by timber, and yet has a road passing very near to it. This might be turned to account, should any one be tempted to locate in this drear and rude wilderness.
After our arrival, I accompanied Senor Pedro to examine his corn, and found it growing very luxuriantly—the stalks being, in most parts, ten feet high, and standing close upon the ground. His calculation is for thirty bushels to the acre, but it is likely to exceed that yield, if the earing is at all proportionate to the present prospect.
The country just at this place is very hilly, and there seems to be a great preference to the hillsides for planting, from the fact doubtless that the soil is better than on the level land.
There are pumpkin vines growing finely in this corn, and cucumber vines, and watermelon vines were seen in a patch near by growing well; yet none of them are sufficiently advanced to determine the result.
The few and isolated settlements seen upon our route to-day, as well as the one at which I am stopped, show very little regard for the comforts of life, or very little advance in civilized life.
If a picture of the interior of this domicil could be adequately portrayed, it would be a rich legacy to posterity, to dwell upon the meagre and filthy surroundings of this able-bodied family. In eating, the victuals were put on a towel upon a bench, and I occupied the only seat that was afforded by the establishment, while the fare was limited to farina, pork, and big hominy, with coffee.
I have looked at the bright side of society in this province, and now the opportunity is afforded to view and study another phase of the people; but the transition is sad to contemplate, and worse still to realize by actual participation.
The only redeeming feature about the place is a few very fat hogs in the yard, and there has not been seen anywhere more fat on an animal than covers one of these hogs.
The mules are also in fine condition, and most excellent travellers. What is out of doors meets the requirements of life very well, but enter the house and all is squalid wretchedness and beastly slovenliness. The people fare worse than the brutes.
My old camarada having me now in his power, informed me that it would be necessary to take one more horse than was expected in his arrangement with Mr. Bennaton, and that instead of going for ten dollars as he had agreed, that he must have seventeen dollars and fifty cents. Upon my objecting he then named fifteen dollars, saying that he would have to take provisions for us and the animals; and, under all the circumstances, I acceded to this proposition, as it is the exact amount supplied by Mr. Bennaton for expenses.
I brought out my blanket and pillow last night to facilitate the preparations of mine host for my night’s rest; and a rude bedstead with cords of the sipo vine, over which were some matting, a horse-blanket, and a sheet, gave promise of comfort. But the numerous fleas beset me so that I was induced to strip off shirt and drawers and wrap up in the blanket to protect myself against them. Getting once clear of these pests, and having the woollen blanket next my person, it was impracticable for them to make an entrance, as their legs get tangled in the wool so as prevent jumping, or even crawling to any considerable extent.
It is somewhat remarkable that no bedbugs or chinches have been seen in this country, and it is fortunate for the lower classes (who are so filthy) that this insect does not propagate here to any large extent.
I am sitting upon my trunk writing, while the corn is being shelled and other arrangements are progressing for our outfit. My two tin-plates, and knife and fork, have been brought forth for use here, and upon the voyage. I gave my friends at Paranapanema upon separating a can of tomatoes, and one of partridge, reserving two cans of tomatoes and one of mutton for this trip; and, from the present aspect of affairs, they are likely to be in urgent demand, as supplies are scarce.
One of the men working on this place has shot a large monkey, and these people tell me that these ugly animals are frequently eaten here, but I hope it will not be served up for our trip.
One of the advantages I hoped to derive in being separated entirely from those speaking English was improvement in the use of the Portuguese language, but these caipiras have such a bad pronunciation that I have considerably greater difficulty in communicating with them than with educated Brazilians, and there is not much encouragement to learn any of the language from them, so that I will talk no more than is needed.
After a great trial to my patience, we started at noon, and I found the son was to accompany the old man as my escort for the voyage. Making a halt at the son’s house, I found a cucumber lying on the table, and getting some salt, it was enjoyed very much. This is a new place, as is also that of the wife’s family near by, and there are a number of new shanties through this obscure tract of country, which have been built as retreats for those getting out of the way of recruiting officers. I witnessed the modus operandi of dodging the issue this morning, in the movements of a man and his wife.
She was mounted astride of one horse, and sundry supplies of eatables were packed in panniers upon another tackey, while the man went afoot with his gun. Upon inquiry as to their destination, the only answer was, that they were going into the forest to sojourn for a time.
The country passed through to-day was for the most part hilly and very poor, having the native pine in great number and of large size, which here, as its namesake with us, is an indication generally of thin soil. The wood of this is more like the soft white pine, and not much used.
An hour before sundown we reached a house, when my escort intimated to me we would stop for the night. I suggested that we had made a very short journey, being only fifteen miles, and that it was some time until night; yet he said there was no house, water, or pasture to be found at any convenient distance, so that I had to acquiesce. Now we shall see more of caipira life, but in somewhat better condition than the miserable abode of my old camarada’s family. The house was a very good mud wall and thatched roof structure, with four divisions; one being for the corn, another the cooking-apartment, and the two others for sleeping-rooms. As the manner of constructing the walls of these houses is characteristic of this class of people, it may be stated that upright timbers are placed in the ground at the corners, and at such other points as the size of the building requires, upon which rests the plates for the roof. Between these uprights are arranged vertically and longitudinally, making a check-work, numerous small strips or laths of the palmetto, upon which is plastered a mortar composed of clay with an admixture of cow-dung. This last-named article is used in this country to give tenacity to the mortar, and, from the general resort to it, I infer that it must serve a good purpose. A wall plastered in this way on the outside and inside gives protection to the inmates from the weather, and, if not subjected to any violence, will remain for a number of years in good condition.
These thatched houses (palhaçar casas) are covered with a kind of long coarse grass, or with the leaves of a species of palm, secured to the laths of the roof by the sipo vine; and each layer extending partly over the foregoing, a very thorough security against rain is effected. With occasional repairs, this covering serves as protection for ten or twelve years.
In such walls, and with such a covering, an earth floor is usually found, and this may be the natural soil, if in a clay region, but is usually made with mortar, such as is used on the walls. As it is very rare to see a chimney in any kind of a house in Brazil, this style of building is of course without any other place for a fire than upon the dirt floor, in the middle of the apartment used for cooking, and the smoke finds its way through the roof as best it may.
The house at which we are to spend the night is owned by Senor José Francisco de Aranna, who is a tall, dark-skinned man, and probably having a mixture of Indian and negro blood; while his wife is a stout and rather comely white woman, being much fairer complexioned than most of those seen in this country. She seemed to be expected to perform most of the labor about the establishment, and got our dinner ready in a reasonable time.
The table for myself and my two attendants consisted of a large stool, having a cloth which only partially covered it, upon the middle of which was poured a large pile of farina, and upon each of three corners were plates, filled with regular home-made hominy and pieces of pork which had been cooked with it.
Not having met with any gritz before, since coming to Brazil, I enjoyed this dish hugely.
After it was disposed of, these plates were removed and others with small bits of fried pork were set down before each of us, which were to be eaten with the farina; but my appetite had been pretty well satisfied with the previous abundant supply, and I ate but little of this, while, however, my attendants made clean plates. Again we were called upon to partake of a dessert of big hominy, which was very nice, but beyond the capacity of my stomach, yet the other men managed to worry down all that was served.
As I have stated elsewhere, the big hominy is made here with the whole grains of corn, by being pounded in a mortar, and they don’t seem to know any thing of treating it with lime or ashes, to remove the outside. Its use is confined entirely to the category of dessert, even among the best people in the land, under the name, cangica.
While the articles furnished on this occasion were substantial, and the surroundings clean, the style of serving them was very primitive and plain, presenting a fair type of the living among the better order of caipiras.
Our host filled out the backwoods character by giving me some music on the viola, which is an instrument resembling the banjo, but with metallic strings, and is in great repute with these people. He sang at my request, which gave a zest to his performance, and I gave the best evidence of the soothing influence of his music by going to sleep during the rather protracted performance. Being in the dark, none of the party observed this act of appreciation.
I was honored during the night with the only bedstead in the house, consisting of some forks driven into the ground, upon which some small straight poles were laid, and having over them a piece of flag matting. With the assistance of my blanket and pillow, my sleep was profound and refreshing.
The old man who accompanied me reposed in the crib upon the unhusked corn, while the son spent the night in some equally convenient place, of which I was not advised.
We were not permitted to leave without breakfast, and giving again the bill of fare will afford a farther specimen of the good things enjoyed by this class of people. The immense pile of farina on the cloth in the middle of the stool greets us at the outset, with a big deep plate full of beans and small pieces of meat for each of us, on the corners of this temporary table. There being no seats about the house, I use my trunk as was done last evening, and the others hunker down to it.
This was followed by plates of soup, in which the beans and meat had been cooked, and we were expected to eat farina with it. There is a peculiar art with these people, in throwing the farina into their mouths with a spoon, and not touching the lips with it, so that all use the same spoon without any indelicacy, in eating from the common pile. Next came the big hominy, and we closed with plates of sweet milk. These articles should have been served together, and thus conformed to the usages among the better class, but they were furnished separately in this caipira regime.
We had no coffee here, and as it is more in keeping with these people to use the rum of the sugar-cane, (cachaça), it was tendered but declined.
I observed after eating each time, that my camaradas rose to their feet, and bringing their hands in contact before them, went through some short ceremony, which was construed as a thanksgiving for what they had received. This I presume is peculiar to the class, as nothing of the sort has been observed among the better order of people. There is no asking of blessing at table, or returning thanks, nor is there any family worship, where I have been heretofore; but among these people I heard a service at the house of Senor Pedro, before I rose in the morning, which seemed to be some devotional exercise on the part of the family; and it is evident that some of them have more regard for religious observance than the more refined class of society throughout this country.
Returning my acknowledgments for the hospitality received, we took our leave of this very respectable backwoods family and set out, with the assistance of another caipira to show us the route.
We were shown first into a blind path, leading down a steep hill, and with a continuation of hills and hollows through the woods for a considerable distance, but reached after a time a plainer way, leading by the most irregular and winding course that ever man or beast has travelled. It was that style of substitute for a road known here by the name picado, and consists in having a few of the small saplings and shrubs cut out, so that a horse may pass, and scarcely permitting a rider to accompany him.
At one time the knees are in contact with a tree in making a short turn; at another, a limb or bent cane of immense size endangers the head, and but for the use of the large sheath-knives carried by the camaradas, the path would have been impassable in many parts. These tremendous cutlasses, with which every camarada and almost every traveller is equipped, are equal to a small axe in clearing away obstructions; and though it looks somewhat savage to see them sticking in the belt of almost every man upon a voyage, they are very useful, and even necessary, in a trip such as the present.
Neither of my attendants wore shoes, and upon entering this narrow and rugged path, beset with brambles and thorns, they rolled up their breeches above their knees, having less fear of tearing their flesh than of injuring their clothes. Indeed their scanty outfit of wearing apparel made this precaution very proper, in view of the tough appearance of the natural covering of their legs. With my boots outside of my pants I secured a like immunity from damage to my raiment.
From our entrance into these woods until we passed out into the Faxina road, a distance of sixteen miles, we were surrounded by lands which were evidently of good quality; and yet, for the most part, so hilly as to render their cultivation very difficult. A portion of the soil is what is known among us as mulatto land, and other parts of a dark gray aspect. The supply of water at all points is quite sufficient for domestic uses, but only two places that would afford facilities for erection of machinery.
The remoteness of these lands belonging to the public domain from a market, and the great difficulty of getting a practicable road in any direction, must be a barrier to the occupation of this territory; otherwise it might be a desirable location for families.
I observed in the midst of this immense forest a small pole pen, and, upon inquiry, learned that it had been used for confining hogs at night that were driven along this route to Iporanga.
The nature of the soil and the character of the growth changed materially on reaching the large open road; and here again we encountered the pine, indicating thin land, though lying more favorably.
After proceeding upon this road, leading from the town of Faxina to Iporanga for four miles, we halted for the night at a beautiful stream, and I availed myself of the opportunity to take a most refreshing bath after the fatiguing day’s travel.
We had travelled twenty miles only, but, considering the nature of the road, it was a good result.
After the horses had grazed around until they were satisfied, they all came up near our rancho and stood for some time, in expectation of something more substantial. But just then the men were preparing dinner, and while we were eating our broiled pork and farina, of which the meal consisted, the animals all moved off upon the road we had come. I intimated to them that the animals were going away, “Os animals estão indo embora,” to which one of them simply replied, that they would not go far, “Não vão longe;” but after finishing his grub the old man set out in search of them upon my suggesting that they would probably return to his house, “Talves aquelles animals voltarão a sua casa.”
After he had been gone for half an hour, I perceived the son was getting very anxious, but nothing was said indicating any misgivings, while it struck me very forcibly that we might be destined to camp here much longer than desirable. At length the young man started off on the road, when I called to him “Onde vai, Senhor?” (Where are you going, sir?) To which he replied that he was going for fuel—“para lenha,” and turned into the woods. My impression was that he was starting to look for the old man and the mules, but I had no idea of being left here in the wild woods alone, and I kept my eye on his movements closely. At length the old man returned with the animals, having run some two miles to overtake them on their homeward-bound course; and they have received a caution, which will enable them in future to understand the movements of these brutes. They now gave them their corn, and confining the only horse in the train with a bell on his neck, as a rendezvous signal, the mules were allowed to go at large for the night.
We found at this place an old dilapidated rancho of the palm leaves, and seeing that a rain was approaching I stretched my blanket under this, and it served to protect all three of us from the showers that occurred at intervals during the night. My position was on the outside, the others between me and the fire; and the thought occurred to me more than once that any wild beast that might approach from these dense woods must come upon me first, yet I did not care to lie so near the fire as the change would bring me, and gave no signs to them of having any apprehension.